How to (fail): (Nearly) replace water pump, Ford Duratec HE (Mondeo Mk 3)

How to get half way through replacing a water pump, fail, and take it to a mechanic.
The pump on these engines is a Motorcraft PW584.
Amazon link: amzn.to/2XLTdfC
Or, for generic parts the Ford part # is 1142427
US: amzn.to/2ZCqbAS | UK: amzn.to/2W5qSAE
You will need:
* 10 mm 1/4" socket
* Replacement coolant
* New pump and rubber grease
Using the above Amazon links helps support my channel and is appreciated!

[@CraigsDIY]

Amazon links (from the desc). Motorcraft PW584: amzn.to/2XLTdfC Or, generic: US: amzn.to/2ZCqbAS | UK: amzn.to/2W5qSAE

[@joecarrolljnr]

Respect for admitting defeat. Nobody is perfect and your videos have helped countless people (including me) in having the knowledge and dare I say balls to tackle jobs on mk3 Mondeo.

[@tlangdon12]

I think it was very sensible to recognise the potential to damage the engine and take it to someone with more experience. Their experience will have helped determine where best to position the lever and how hard to push it so as to minimise the risk of damaging the engine. Well done for confessing that you weren't able to do this job yourself. Your channel has been very instructive as you are thorough and careful. I changed my fuel filter last week having learned the process from your video.

[@graemeparker3375]

Thanks for the excellent videos and info Craig. They have helped me maintain my Mondeo very well. I’d like to share my near-fail water pump replacement storey. After a lot of teeth gnashing and less than savoury language I did the following with success! Take out the right hand headlight - it gives much better access all round to the pump. Screw in an 8mm x 30mm bolt through one of the pulley flange holes and wind it up until it anchors into the waterpump body - there is a little hole that lines up well for this on the top of the pump. This will stop the flange spinning. Now take a length of timber - a 500mm piece of decking timber worked well (90x30mm). Line the timber up through the headlight hole onto the waterpump body, get a rubber shot hammer and your best bicep muscles and start some serious blows onto the wood. After you get a little movement of the pump away from the block jam (carefully) a wedge or chisel into the gap. This will stop the pump pulling itself back in. Now resume the blows on the hammer and it will come out! Cheers and good luck.

[@CraigsDIY]

Well done.

[@mrbenn747]

The phrase “discretion is the better part of valour” springs to mind here. Thanks for sharing!

[@WireSniffer]

This is one job I did actually do myself on my 52 reg Mondeo a few years back, lucky for me a few taps and the pump came out easy. It was the original oem pump from Ford, it was the circle one, the replacement was like yours with the triangular shape face, which makes it's easier to reinsert the pump bolts. Obviously a Ford improvement on design. Shame you had a stuck one. Thanks for all your videos really thorough and helpful.

[@bouwt]

I have luckily been able to successfully perform this job. It was not an easy one, my patience really got tested and my hands are still recovering from all the impossible-to-reach areas. Few tips for anyone still on the verge of doing this: - Check 3x whether you loosened the correct bolts; I appeared to have loosened 1/3 correct ones, while 2/3 bolts belonged to the chain(?) casing. These are practically next to the water pump bolts... - While batting and levering the water pump out through the headlight hole; watch out for the steering pump pipe; if you don't, you will end up with a mess and possibly an extra expense of ~150... Good luck! All-in-all, awesome video Craig; you have already helped me a great deal to keep my Mondeo in proper shape for the past few years, thank you!

[@nikitasstratakos3361]

Thanks for your work. I had to change my water pump, and your video really helped! The pump was stuck but with the aid of the people who are commenting your video, I managed to get it out. Also want to congratulate you for your patience to video all your service procedures. Good work, keep going!

[@averyintrusive7610]

I have replaced a few of these and they are all stuck to some degree. The trick is the tab in the 3 o clock position. it allows you to spin the entire pump in the bore. doing so will expose the backside of 2 tabs and really improve your leverage. rock the pump with a screwdriver at the 3 o clock and 7 o clock tabs with the coolant system open. You were right to seek help, better safe than sorry. Thanks for the video's!

[@michaelholtham1056]

Thanks Craig. I came across the same problem. Wood didn't touch it. A 5lb hammer and a wrecking bar through the removed headlamp hole did. 5 mins and 3 missing lugs later it came out. Guys you just need to whack it as hard as you can!!

[@granaatu]

I successfully replaced the water pump on my Mondeo yesterday, largely thanks to your video. I got the pump loose using a piece of 2x2 wood and a rubber hammer, a few firm whacks on 2 sides of the pump had it wigled loose. It's a tight space, you can't really whack it from left, so I placed the piece of wood vertically, bottom facing left side of the pump, used the enginemount as pivotpoint for the wood, whacked on top of the wood, a kind of lever-whack (if that makes any sense 🙂).

[@rintunt]

Just did yet another one of these. Tried everything, it was stuck rock solid. Took the headlight out, got a long extension bar and club hammer and gave it some taps from the side, top, and bottom through the wheel arch, effectively "walking" it out. Easy peasy in the end.

[@mikes5637]

Still a useful video in that I know now that the water pump on my mondeo will be a job for my friendly local garage. Still saved me 100s of pounds so far with your other videos on servicing, brake calipers, swirl flaps, etc. Keep em coming, Craig!

[@martinstocker5206]

Hi, thanks for all your videos. I completed this today, car had 260,000kms. I got it out in about 30mins, the pump has 3 squares cast into it which you can get a pry bar behind and lever out against the block. Do a little bit at a time and will break loose, 3'oclock, 6 o;clock 9 o'clock etc. Also I changed the pump bolts at the same time, get from Ford or shop. Not much space to work thats for sure. Thanks for great videos.

[@CraigsDIY]

Thanks. Other commenters here will benefit. Can you detail the pry bar (size, length) you used?

[@mortas72]

Do not worry about anything, the movie is useful anyway, best regards

[@rintunt]

Yeah I’ve done 2 of these and both had the same issue. I fabricated a long bar to bolt to the pulley flange. They’re not easy to get out and require a fair amount of swearing 😆

[@theeldergamers2000]

Cheers let's hope I can manage to get it done now

[@sklepgekon]

to remove water pump in duratec-he you just have to wiggle it with long screwdriver or pry bar. o-ring seal doesn't hold the water pump. it is relatively simple job comparing to same replacement in diesel engine (where almost everything is a lot more difficult).

[@RommelADC]

Your torque wrench won't be of much use to you if you keep using it to undo tight bolts! (Ref 02:15).

[@mvalkonen]

It's worth removing the headlight, it helps a lot!👍

[@ilfordino-fordfiestatutori8725]

As Jeremy Clarkson says "nothing can't be fixed with an hammer"

[@mohamadalfayez8477]

You look 20 years younger without the beard.

[@The_realArcher]

I'm stuck in this spot. used a pry bar and broke off the edge of the water pump. I'm so frustrated idk what to do and I need to get to work.. about ready to scrap this car. it WILL NOT COME OUT

[@beachbum6741]

when you took it to the garage to get it done what was the labor charge?

[@maxagent86]

Did this water pump replacement fix that engine knock/noise that you showed on the April 19 video? Thanks in advance and nice job on your videos.

[@rohangibbins2818]

I had to do mine after I replaced my thermostat. I guessed that with the thermostat stuck open the pump didn't have the same working forces as it would with a working one. Mine was leaking quite badly and had no problems getting it out. Now my only problem is the clutch on my a/c it cuts out after about 10 minutes. I think it's something to do with the shims when they get worn. Any ideas?

[@CraigsDIY]

You mean it cuts out and doesn't go back on? Is the air con actually working?

[@rohangibbins2818]

Craig's DIY Car Yea in summer I would drive home from work in rush hour and would blow cold for about 10-15 min then start warming up. Then got home and turned the a/c on and off a few times with the car running and couldn’t hear the clutch engaging any more. I thought it could be the gas at first because it would stop blowing cold but unsure how to test it myself.

[@borianm]

​@@rohangibbins2818 If you don't have enough gas in your system the pressure sensor will disable the clutch to engage in order to not damage your compressor by running it "dry". However I am not fully sure that it is your problem. I don't think you can check it yourself at home.

[@cakesnipher7024]

@@rohangibbins2818 most likely the fuses. I had the same issue a year ago and charged my a.c.refrigerant thinking it would helo. But I ended checking my fuze box and needed to replace three on my car type.

[@VasiliyLomovoy]

Hi Craig's DIY Car! I noticed that the rubber o-ring of the old pump had significantly(!) increased in diameter. Just yesterday I changed my pump and noticed the same effect. It is known that cars commonly use rubber that is resistant to oils and other technical substances, but in this case this is not the case. What do you think - perhaps such a material is used so that the ring swells after installation to seal the connection more reliably? Could this be so - will lubricating the ring with silicone grease to simplify installation (and as a result protect it from the effects of antifreeze) slow down this effect, which will lead to a possible small leak. I am interested in your opinion or perhaps you have accurate information on this issue.

[@CraigsDIY]

I wouldn't worry about it. Just clean the mating surface. They usually leak at the shaft seal not the O-ring.

[@BenHall289]

My streetka has a duratec engine and is making a strange sound when running. Best way I can describe it is like a rotary wire brush on the inside of a metal dustbin. Did you hear something like this when you noticed your fault? Engine has plenty of oil and is not overheating yet.

[@CraigsDIY]

You'll have to figure out whether it's the belt/pulleys or the engine. Take the belt off and run the engine for a few secs, see if noise goes away. Try kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnSWepJ_g5iopqc

[@BenHall289]

@@CraigsDIY thanks mate

[@BenHall289]

I should have mentioned that the noise only really starts when the engine is hot and has been running. It's noticeable after about ten mile journey. Therefore I'm not sure if taking the belts off would be useful in diagnosing it as id have to run the engine for a similar time which as you say isn't a good idea without cooling. Thank you for your reply, I appreciate your time and the videos you're making.

[@Rafixx5]

was the radiator cold?

[@fg7726]

I have exactly the same problem! I can't remove the pump. Is it an typical issue on this motor?

[@CraigsDIY]

Typical of water pumps to glue themselves up. The mechanic used a small crowbar, try the same on a solid piece of the casing when warm, and be careful.

[@fg7726]

@@CraigsDIY i finaly did it. It was a nighamare. I had tu use 2 crowbar, a huge hammer, a chisel and an entire bottle of cold shock penetrating oil. 5 hours of work. What a mess!!!!

[@CheapBastard1988]

Great reliable engine but not the easiest to work on.

[@CraigsDIY]

Can always be worse. I just looked at the accessory belt in the Golf 1.3 TSI. I don't know how they fit bigger engines in that car.

[@CheapBastard1988]

@@CraigsDIY Of course it could be worse, but the position of the alternator, starter motor, thermostat and PCV valve is far from ideal. I remember replacing a starter motor on a 1991 Nissan 100NX 1.6 in 5 minutes. Just opened the bonnet, removed the wires, removed the three mounting bolts and out it came. Or replacing the thermostat in a 1987 Ford Fiesta 1.0 and 1995 Ford Fiesta 1.6GT was really easy, while with my Mondeo the weather wasn't ideal and I needed the car quickly so I just decided I had to pay someone else to do it. My water pump, alternator and accessory drive belt are still original as far as I know so they're 19 years old by now and did 193.000km. If I turn out to have more free time than I bargained for (thanks to the virus) and the weather isn't too bad I'll tackle the drive belt. Your videos are very helpful, thanks a lot! Though I'm still wondering if I couldn't just remove the EGR valve and be done with it. It's not that I currently have any troubles with it but it's useless (even detrimental) to performance so I'd prefer to not have it at all. There are kits for the mechanical work but the software to keep the check engine light off is hard to come by. I'm considering connecting a Raspberry Pi to it with the display output on my radio DVD player to show all current faults and if the EGR shows up again to have a hardware button to remove all error codes.

[@lukeh7854]

Wouldn’t a slide hammer pop this out?

[@DavidReynolds-kr6yh]

I might have tried a puller like a slide hammer, but that’s just me.

[@CraigsDIY]

Just a small crowbar of a size and shape that will fit, but it's quite awkward.

[@matthewperez7780]

Worst thing I have EVER tried to do in a car. I tried everything in the comments and some websites, nothing works, it's sealed in. all that's left is to keep hitting and hope it will come out somehow. I can see that it has come a bit loose but I have tried everything and still won't come out :( it's taken me a week and sadly I can't afford the $850. It's so expensive in my country. I've changed and fixed many things but this is driving me crazy haha..

[@CraigsDIY]

The solution is a pry bar of the right shape and size, I didn't have one and didn't have time to mess around. If you a week but not the $, then make the effort to figure out what will fit and get one. Tap the sharp end in and lever gently. I understand I'm not one to give advice. But that's all a mechanic will do.

[@riancowalters9986]

Rrg waar