How To Fill & Bleed Coolant - Chevy 3.4L V6

[@natefidalgo7625]

Another cool trick i learned is if you want to get 1/8 in tube and install it to your bleeder screw and route it back to the reserve tank this is a way to bleed air out without spilling it all over. Because the air just goes out the reserve tank when liquid goes in if the top is left off

[@VintageVideos2009]

Interesting idea. It probably isn't something that "the repair manuals" would advise, but you might have something there.

[@natefidalgo7625]

@@VintageVideos2009 well some vehicles don't have an expansion/reserve tank but for the ones that do all its there for is when increase pressure/temps build up the coolant system bleeds off the coolant back to the expansion/reserve tank. So on those cars if the coolant levels not right the car adjust itself by putting more coolant back into the reserve. So it work on some cars NOT the ones without expansion/reserve tanks. Most people don't understand the point of these tanks and think the main point is to add coolant to. Speaking of which i got a car that i got to take a little coolant out of expansion tank because it seems to have overflowed once and its way passed max line so its better to have less then more in the reserve tank anyway. Plus there complaining about smelling some coolant a few days right after i did it when they drived it , the coolant it was probably a little dripped on the engine compartment or came out of the reserve that there smelling. Over time it will clear if its consistent or the needle goes high or the engine light comes on then i be a little more concerned.

[@natefidalgo7625]

Another thing people don't realize is clogs in your coolant systems are pretty bad as if there major clogs over time the water pump and system could build up high enough temps / pressures to blow a head gasket which that requires taking off the whole head cleaning coolant and oil mixtures and reassembling of half an engine top/block it could take possible a couple days to fix those. You have to get rtv silicone sealant/a new head gasket ,...etc Thats why if you have a engine light come on for coolant or temp gage goes way high for long periods of time , and consistently you should get the clog flushed out and coolant replaced. Though thats like the worst possible coolant issue one could get under the worst conditions. Because the head gasket blowing badly enough would make it so you cannt drive the car because you loose enough cylinder compression as well as fluids mixing with fluids so a major cleaning of oil and coolant. But most people wouldn't have to worry about all this unless your cars an older car significantly with no general maintenance ever to the coolant system.

[@sevanson1]

Squeezing the hose as you show at the thermostat tube does nothing except create sounds of air being evacuated and then returning to the tube. Those bleed screws are utilized, but not with a static engine. Heater must be selected hot, high, system topped off, and engine running to get to operating temp. Cap on radiator is left off by me while first circulating coolant via a working water pump, that way I can easily monitor adequate level of coolant at the fill neck of the radiator as air is "burped" from the radiator neck and from each of the bleeders (thermostat housing tube will dispense air/fluid only after thermostat opens at temp). I keep the system topped until no air comes from the bleeders. Then the radiator cap is installed , and the coolant supply/overflow is filled. The engine is run to temp. While checking that heat is available at the defroster, the bleeder screws are again checked (burped), and system final top off completed at supply/overflow tank.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Not disputing your methods, as we have also conducted a method similar to what you described, after running the engine up to normal operating temperatures, allowing the thermostat to open, and venting air through bleeders. Knowing this is a closed coolant system, venting of additional air in the system is essential. However, some service manuals also describe the method depicted in this video. As you mentioned, running the vehicle, double-checking for trapped air and expelling via the bleeders is the key. Thanks for watching and sharing a great description of how you have successfully completed the job.

[@nazarethluna6450]

Good instrucions and also simple for us mortals to understand thanks

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Nazareth Luna, thanks for watching and sharing your comments. We're glad the video was helpful!

[@barryallenflash1]

Hey, thanks for the tip. Never thought of squeezing the hose without it running. DUH? Don't know why. I'll try it and let you know.

[@STePHeN320_12]

Yes but squeezing the hose does push the air out but when u let it go it sucks it right back In. Would be best to squeeze the hose hold it squeezed and tighten the bleeder before letter the hose go. This way the bleeder is open to push the air out but is closed for when u unsqueeze the hose so it doesn’t suck air back in.

[@wildestcowboy2668]

@@STePHeN320_12 what is the purpose of bleeding it? My van doesn't get warm enough so I just assumed it was the thermostat?

[@hamsteaks5541]

MAKE SURE THE SYSTEM IS BLED. It literally took me less than 15 minutes to bleed the coolant system by myself, with a stupid 7mm wrench to get rid of months upon months of tow bills and bull shit after having the engine changed. MAKE SURE IT'S BLED.

[@MrDonny27]

Was it overheatin

[@justaguy4real]

Squeezing air out but sounds like sucking it back in too

[@natefidalgo7625]

Good video you explained the top of bleeder most would try to take off the whole bleeder valve. But ya got to be careful on older cars not to break the bleeder but if you do there like $12 for a new one plus some liquid Thread Sealer. The problem why i don't do many fixes or half ass them is the parts are difficult to get or expensive heck i wish there was unlimited parts /easy access to them i be building cars all day. And fixing cars all the time. Its just i hold off because it so hard to get parts or extra parts.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Nate, I have broken off the bleeder screw before on a 1997 model Chevy Venture, so I know that break easily. Then I had to unscrew the whole bleeder valve assembly to release the air. It's not fun, but it did work, until I got a replacement. Those little bleeder valves do break easily though. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@natefidalgo7625]

@@VintageVideos2009 Ya which is why there usually not needed to open aka better options like proping the vehicle on a hill or squeezing pipes near water pump and thermostat housings. Because if you can free it from there its probably going to rise out the radiator cap

[@natefidalgo7625]

As such most vehicles don't even have the bleeder screw or screws and the only way is to squeeze hoses and elevate the vehicle. But i agree that trapped air that can affect the coolant system. Anyway been trying to figure out a tool to not measure coolant temp ratings like hydrometer but if there is a tool for measuring amount of coolant in the system without completely emptying it out and measuring.

[@natefidalgo7625]

In general it be nice to have a tool to tell you how much coolant is in the system not just where on a reserve/expansion tank its low or high. Because really the expansion tank is just so the radiator can bleed off excess or expanding coolant temporarily to the reserve tank when temp /pressure get a little bit high. Nice talking to you good video. Moral of the story is don't uses 10mm to take off the whole bleeder screw uses the 7 /8 mm to gentle crack it open if you must.

[@VintageVideos2009]

@bob bobber Well, we are expelling coolant, so it's a little different, but OK.

[@ednja]

I found that when I was bleeding the air out of the cooling system on my chevy venture, when I rev the engine up and then release the throttle, white foam comes into my non-spill funnel. I thought it was from a prestone flush that I just did a couple days ago. I did several water-only flushes and back flushes but it still has white foam. When I opened the bleeder valve, white foam came out. The top of the radiator is full of foam. I used a block tester to check for a blown head gasket or cracked block or head. The instructions say to pump it for 2 minutes. After about a minute, I lifted the tester to see if the foam was coming up and it was maybe 1/2" away from the tester,. The liquid was still blue (not yellow), but I didn't do the full 2 minutes. I confirmed the fluid does turn yellow by holding the tester up to the exhaust tail pipe and pumping. It quickly turned yellow. Do I need to let the engine run longer so it accumulates exhaust fumes before testing (if there are exhaust fumes)? Right now I have water only in the system. I did several flushes and back flushes with water. I saw some other videos about blown head gasket and exhaust leaking into the coolant. I noticed in their videos that when they revved the engine, the coolant would blow out the radiator. That doesn't happen with mine. With mine, the coolant goes in the opposite direction. It gets drawn down into the cooling system. When I let go of the throttle, then the coolant rises back up and some shoots out of the radiator. Anyone have any idea about this?

[@VintageVideos2009]

I've never experienced what you are describing. One thought comes to mind, has your thermostat been replaced? If not, is it possible that some trapped fluids are possibly causing the foaming action? If you've successfully back-flushed multiple times with water - I'm at a loss for where the foaming action is coming from. Let's see if anyone else chimes in on this situation, or perhaps you could try further Google searches to see if it has happened to other owners. Very odd.

[@ednja]

@@VintageVideos2009 There is no thermostat in it right now because I did several flushes to clean out the brown dexcool sludge. I also have water only in the system until I fix this problem. At first I thought the bubbles was the water boiling and that the foam was from the prestone flush. After several flushes, the foam is still the same so I ruled out that it's from the prestone flush. Then I realized that the bubbles and foam were happening even if the engine is completely cold. Today I did a pressure test on the cooling system. It doesn't hold pressure and there's no water leaking on the floor.

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@ednja Here's a tip from Dow chemical on what to look for with your foamy coolant: Often times, foaming is caused by underlying mechanical issues, such as a crack or failing gasket that has not been detected. Glycol can also foam due to contamination, which can be more difficult to identify. There is a quick test to determine if the foaming issue is mechanical or caused by the coolant. Collect a small sample in a clean bottle with lid Fill the bottle roughly half way with coolant and close the lid Allow any bubbles to collapse, leaving no visible foam on top of the fluid Shake the bottle vigorously for 30 seconds Place the bottle on a flat solid surface Use a timer to record how long it takes for the bubbles to completely collapse If the bubbles collapse in less than one minute, the foaming issue is likely mechanical. A thorough inspection of the system should reveal a leak. You can specifically check for hairline cracks in heads or leaks in pump seals. If the bubbles take more than one minute to collapse or do not collapse at all, the issue is likely with the coolant. It is recommended you submit a coolant sample for analysis to determine if the fluid is in good condition or if contaminants were introduced to the system.

[@ednja]

@@VintageVideos2009 My system has only water in it right now because I did several flushes, including some chemical flushes, trying to get as much dexcool sludge out of the system as possible. I found 2 leaks: a small hose had a crack and a plastic heater hose quick-connect hose had a crack. The engine ran too hot a few weeks ago when I started it up and was idling, but don't think it was hot enough to blow a head gasket. I bought the van a year ago and I suspect that someone used stop leak in it and then sold it. After replacing the cracked hose and crack quick connect, my coolant system test held for more than 10 minutes at 15psi. Then I started the engine with my spill free funnel in the radiator and the bubbles started coming into the funnel just seconds after starting the cold engine. By the way my thermostat is out right now too, so the water circulates immediately. I figured out a way to use a block tester to test for exhaust gas in the coolant, by connecting a hose about 1-1/2 feet long from the radiator. The hose extended upwards above the radiator, giving more time before the foam rises to the tester. I was able to work the block tester for about 5 minutes before the foam entered into the tester. The blue liquid turned green and then started turning yellow when the foam entered into the tester. I checked the compression on all cylinders. They vary from 165lbs to 185lbs. I put my inspection camera into each cylinder to look inside. Four of the cylinders looked normal. One cylinder had what looked like some of the brown sludge on top of the piston (3 or 4 spots). That was the cylinder with 165lbs compression. Another cylinder had water droplets on the cylinder walls and on the piston, which I think sprayed in past the gasket (or maybe a crack in the head) on either the intake stroke or the power stroke, during the compression test. I had the fuel pump fuse removed so no fuel sprayed into any cylinder. If the engine was running it would have just burnt up that small amount of water or coolant. I put away all my tools so can't do that test that you mention at the moment but will do it when I get back at it in a few weeks. I did pick up some of that foam in my hand and I did notice that it disappears almost instantly. I won't be pulling the engine apart until maybe a month or two from now.

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@ednja Thanks for sharing all of your experiences. Hopefully you can find out the exact cause. If you do, please feel free to share your information with our viewers! Good luck on the repair.

[@muffs55mercury61]

Mine only has one bleeder screw by the water pump, nor does mine have a radiator cap, only reservoir, so I'm assuming the steps are the same

[@ruben-ro4dz]

Thank you for posting this video had my van serviced but they didn't bleed the system right 🙏🙏🙏

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Ruben, thank you for watching and sharing your comments. Yes, on a closed coolant system such as this one, the air needs to be removed from the system using the bleeders.

[@watchandjewelryloft4713]

Nice video. I want to try this on my 2005 Monte Carlo LS. It's not overheating, but I hear sloshing inside the car. Wondering if air is the problem. If not, what do you suggest?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hey Watchandjewelryloft, thanks for watching and and sharing your comments. Checking the coolant level, and if needed, removing any air in your coolant system will certainly not hurt. It seems a bit unlikely though, that the sloshing sound on the inside of your vehicle is coming from the coolant area. Is this happening when you are driving - with the car running right? It could be air, and perhaps you are hearing it in the heater hose lines inside your dash? Other items that hold water may include your door panels. Sometimes water gets trapped inside the door and can be heard from the inside. Windshield wash fluid, or more likely brake fluid, if your reservoir is located further back in the engine compartment. Just a few other things to consider, if removing the air in the coolant line doesn't remove the sloshing noise.

[@watchandjewelryloft4713]

@@VintageVideos2009 it's definitely the coolant running through the heater core. It will change with RPM change of the engine. What's the best method to get the air out of that? Will it naturally flow to the highest point if it's at the bleeders? Or maybe I need to park on a slope to help it?

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@watchandjewelryloft4713 Hopefully, expelling the air by using the bleeders should work, although it may take a while of running the car to get it out. I'm not sure if parking on a slope will be helpful - although science may suggest that the air bubble will rise if on a slope. Honestly, I've never had to deal with that issue. If it does not work, you can likely find a video on KZbin about how to flush your heater core- and that may also remedy the situation. I do not have a video tutorial on that topic. Wishing you success!

[@JuanMorales-ks4ll]

great video

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Juan, thank you very much for watching our video and sharing your compliments. We invite you to subscribe to our channel for more DIY videos.

[@jeremyhurd3500]

Thanks for the video I didn't think about it.Matbe that's why my car is overheating

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Jeremy, yes, it is possible if you have an air pocket trapped inside the line, it could lead to overheating issues. Bleeding the system on certain 3.4L models, like this one, with a closed system would be the proper way to eliminate the air pocket. Good luck on your repair!

[@bigtweezytv7622]

what about the other bleeder over the Water pump do you squeeze that hose too? I thought you were suppose to look for bubbles?

[@crackakongentertainment9659]

Hopefully this will work on a 2000 impala I just put back together

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Cracka King Entertainment- yes, the procedures are the same and it should work fine. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@crackakongentertainment9659]

Only problem I'm running into, now that I'm working on it, is I don't have the big tank on the driver side like you have. I only have the small one on the driver side. I filled my radiator and it's not coming out of the bleeder. Thoughts?

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@crackakongentertainment9659 OK, can you hear air escaping out of your bleeder valve - after you open it (be careful, the bleeder valve screw snaps off easily!).

[@nickchelseagrin5333]

great video actually works thank you

[@VintageVideos2009]

+Nick blackstone Hi Nick, we are happy to hear that this video helped you resolve your coolant bleeding issue. We also found it to be a simple, yet very effective method. Thanks for sharing your positive results and comments.

[@billbierbaum3373]

big shaft position sensor for a Chevy 3.1 l 300 3100 SFI

[@JasonSpitzMI50]

You forgot to add it would help to have the car sitting at a 45 degree angle with the front of the vehicle facing upward because air goes to the highest point.

[@VintageVideos2009]

M Piper, thanks for sharing that concept. Yes, you could raise the vehicle if you are so inclined, and it may speed the process a bit. A 45 degree angle sounds rather steep though, so please be safe if you are doing so. It's not necessary to complete this process based on our experience.

[@nigelweiss7449]

The annoying thing for me about these bleeder valves is the hot coolant leaks all over the place. When I did this in my 3.1 1997 Malibu, I was attempting to let it out into a 1/4 inch hose for a while, but it wasn't perfect and I realized I was just huffing hot vapors and getting it on my hand a bunch without even keeping it off the engine.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Yeah, you have to wonder what the design engineers were thinking when they created this idea. OK, bleeding makes sense, but to have it dispense all over the engine compartment when it's hot...that doesn't seem like the smartest idea, does it? Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@ggordon4127]

That cant be how you do all 3.4 because mine only has one bleed screw. What model is this?

[@VintageVideos2009]

This engine is part of the Chevy Venture models late 90s through 2000s. Is your 3.4L in a sedan perhaps?

[@johnh320]

So what do you do when the head of the bleed screw breaks off flush? And why aren't the bleeders at the highest part of the cooling system?

[@VintageVideos2009]

I did have that happen on a 1997 Venture, with the 3.0 L engine. I was able to slowly and carefully unscrew the plug itself, bleed the system and then re-tighten the bleed plug. After that I picked up a couple of the bleeder plugs from a dealer, but I was especially careful with tightening the bleeder screw in the future. You would have to ask Chevy engineering why the bleeders are not located at the highest part of the system. Convenience perhaps, knowing the bleeding process is necessary?

[@click789101112]

If I recall, bleeders are also available through the aftermarket from places like Rockauto dot com.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi click789101112, thanks for sharing this information. The bleeders are somewhat fragile and do can break off if you torque them just a little bit too much.

[@MrSalmanJohnson]

The Ventures only came with the 3.4L. In case you misspelled that (:

[@reaperofsouls4946]

buy new ones duh!

[@TheTubeMeister]

What line do I fill the antifreeze up to on the reservoir? It's hard to tell and very confusing.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Gus Batayeh Hi Gus, there is a max fill line marked at about 3/4 of the height of the tank (approximately). This would be the height you fill it to. Of course, check the coolant's level after you complete a few days of normal driving, to make sure it is correct. Bleed again if necessary. Thanks for the question.

[@TheTubeMeister]

***** I did what you told me. The container is tilted downwards to the right so I filled it to where the container was about 3/4 quarters filled. It's very hard to see the antifreeze level from the outside. So I just looked inside at the liquid itself and used my judgment seeing it's 3/4 quarters filled. Hope I did it right. Vehicle is running the same so I assume everything is fine. Thank you for the reply.

[@TheTubeMeister]

***** also, before I put the dex cool in there, I noticed the coolant that was in there was green. I assumed the coolant already in there was dex-cool. Hope I'm not ruining the radiator by mixing them.

[@JoanneFoxTeping]

Gus Batayeh I had the same problem. Is it safe to mix Dexcool and green coolant?

[@TheTubeMeister]

Joanne Fox​ I'm not sure, but if your vehicle takes only Dexcool, then it's safe just keep Dexcool in there at all times. I would assume it's not good to mix them. But you can ask a professional to make sure.

[@Paul-vb4mn]

Mine only has the first bleeder... 2006 equinox with 3.4. am I missing something?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Pablo, thanks for watching and sharing your question. Is your engine configuration similar to our video? If so, you may want to look to see if one of the bleeder screws has been broken (they do break very easily), or perhaps a modification to your coolant system was completed. If you only have one bleeder, you should still be able to use it to bleed the air out of the system. Hope it all works out for you!

[@Paul-vb4mn]

@@VintageVideos2009 it's very similar, but not exact. I looked everywhere online, and I don't believe this vehicle has 2 bleeders. Was able to bleed with just the one and vehicle is running well. But thank you.

[@deanguando1335]

I would think that after each squeeze of the radiator hose you would have to close the bleeder screw. Almost like bleeding brakes.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Dean, you have a valid observation there. Yes, like bleeding brakes, you could in fact close the bleeder screws each time with this method to expel the coolant. It is possible to do both things - however, be very careful with the bleeder screws - they will break off if you handle them excessively by tightening too much. It seems also that unlike the higher pressures of hydraulic brake lines, bleeding coolants out and seeing the fluid expelled, is a bit less likely to draw in excessive air amounts that will cause a failure. It is the same principle however, so you make a very valid point. However, the procedure shared on the video is recommended. Thanks again for watching and sharing your comments.

[@deanguando1335]

@@VintageVideos2009 Thanks for the response.

[@wildestcowboy2668]

@@deanguando1335 my van temperature goes up past half way sometimes and doesn't blow out real warm air. I just thought it was the thermostat? Your thoughts?

[@deanguando1335]

@@wildestcowboy2668 - could be a thermostat. Also old antifreeze or even a bad heater core.

[@roonbooks1418]

@@wildestcowboy2668 sounds like your heater core has an airlock...you can pull one hose off just slightly ,then back on....or...you could have a plugged/dirty heater core...in that case, you need to flush the heater core...lots of videos on how to do that on here

[@evangonzales4848]

is this the same for a 3.5

[@evangonzales4848]

the location of the bleeder screw

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@evangonzales4848 Not necessarily. Bleeder screws are located in different places, with different engine orientations, and various vehicle make/model/year. Thanks for watching and sharing your question!

[@curtisjohnson6559]

I really need your help on the coolant

[@VintageVideos2009]

Sure, this video should be very helpful with bleeding your coolant system and getting your vehicle back to safe operation.

[@joshbaker2157]

in a 97 chevy Venture, can you mix Prestone all makes all models extended life antifreeze with the Dexcool.... ? Can you run straight Prestone all makes all models extended life antifreeze in it?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Josh, thanks for the question. When Dexcool originally was introduced, it was meant to be solely used within these systems, especially back in the 90s - and on this model vehicle in particular. However, after a number of years, some universal coolants were introduced that could in fact be mixed with the Dexcool, for systems and vehicles such as this. You will want to check the Prestone coolant mix you are using, to see if it allows mixing with Dexcool, or you may need to choose a completely different, universal coolant mix. You could also drain and flush the entire system and remove the Dexcool if you prefer. Thanks for watching and sharing your question.

[@martindeimler6587]

I personally would not run Dex Cool in my vehicles I have to Chevys 05 Chevy Impala and in a 02 Chevy Suburban both vehicles have high miles 05 Chevy Impala has 149000 in my Suburban has 209000, the Impala is my wife's car and when she bought it the first thing I did was flushed the Dex Cool out, my experience with dex cool is it will eat the cooling system inside out. Don't like dex cool.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Martin, your thoughts are shared by many others. While Dexcool was officially sanctioned by Chevy for their products for years, we are also a bit more confident with traditional anti-freeze in our systems. However, if you have a vehicle such as this one, that already is filled with Dexcool, you may choose to continue. Or, as you have done, completely flush the system and use conventional coolant instead. You bring up a great point for discussion.

[@reaperofsouls4946]

no!!!!!!

[@VintageVideos2009]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[@daxstormer4965]

Thank you so much man!

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi dax, glad we were able to help you out and get your vehicle back on the road. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments!

[@chrislamarche5247]

What kind of coolant was used for this.its this the chevy venture?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Chevy specifications recommended Dexcool, which is an orange/red colored fluid. A lot of people have gone back to the traditional coolant yellow/green color. We suggest you choose one or the other, but don't mix them. Both are considered safe for the Chevy models in the late 90s and early 2000s range. Appreciate your comments and thanks for watching! Hope you have a chance to subscribe to our channel.

[@johnh320]

This is not the proper method to bleed the 2006 with a pressurized overflow cap. The cooling system shown has a cap on the radiator. i was told never to open the bleeds while the engine is running

[@nickchelseagrin5333]

actually this does work I just did it and now I have heat again and I'm not longer overheating

[@VintageVideos2009]

+Nick blackstone Hi Nick, glad to hear that the video was helpful in getting the air bled from your coolant system and also resulting in getting heat restored to your vehicle. Thanks for sharing your positive comments. We invite you to like and share our video and subscribe to our channel for future repair videos.

[@johnh320]

Nick blackstone Hi Nick. Am i correct in assuming that your cooling system, like mine, has only one bleeder which is located above the water pump.? The bitch of it is, is that of course the brass bleeder head broke off, and now in order to preform the process I will have to loosen the entire outer fitting. Please Reply. John H.

[@nickchelseagrin5333]

+john H my setup is the exact same my girlfriend ran into the problem the other day we had no heat and car was over heating someone said to try to bleed your lines I watched your video than went out and tried it I loosened both screws on each end squeezed on the lines and listened as the air came out than fluid. I really appreciate the video I'm not much of a car person but something that easy I can do. my car type was a 2001 Chevy Malibu and its now running great thanks again

[@johnh320]

Nick, did you bleed it with the engine ruining or not running? Pressure cap on or off? Thanks

[@hanksgavin]

3.4 or 3400? W-Body?

[@VintageVideos2009]

hanksgavin kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHSyoGpsndhpl5Y Here's a better look at the minivan engine, 3400, SFI, V6 on a 2000 Chevy Venture. Hope that helps.

[@JWSU]

FYI 2006 impala have self bleed systems so there's a different way to bleed it out.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Jesuswillsaveus, thanks for watching and also thank you for sharing your helpful experience and advice.

[@JWSU]

VintageVideos2009 no problem. and I am talking about the v6 not the v8

[@VintageVideos2009]

Thanks for the clarification!

[@nfetiu]

Is the radiator cap removable on all models? Mine is 2002 and I'm struggling to remove it

[@VintageVideos2009]

Most radiator caps require that you push down on the cap and then turn it counterclockwise until it hits the slots of the filler tube, and then releases. So, unless you the radiator you have is a replacement, it should open by pressing down on the radiator cap and simultaneously turning it counterclockwise. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@nfetiu]

Thanks for the help. You gave me the right instructions even though I managed to open it before I read your reply. I appreciate though.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Glad it all worked out for the best for you. We welcome you to subscribe and share our channel with your friends!

[@desiderious1]

Can't you just refill the radiator, leave it's cap off, then start it up to bleed the air out and fill as needed ?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi John, the procedure you describe above works for the majority of coolant systems. However, this 3.4L engine type is called a "closed system". As such, when you fill from the radiator or reservoir (like you do for many, many systems) it often leaves a pocket of air within the coolant lines. That's why you need to open up the small bleed screws - in order to bleed out the air pocket from the system. If you don't, the air pocket can result in an overheating situation and failure to multiple engine components. Thanks for watching and sharing a very good question! Best of luck on your repair!

[@Killaak187]

my engine doesnt have the bleeder on upper hose, it leads back to reservoir tank, 6 cyl 2001 olds alero, is there a valve i'm missing?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Kevin Sprad Well, if you have a 3.4L engine, like the one on our video, you should have the bleeder valve (just as is shown on our the video). The bleeders are somewhat fragile, and if you torque them just a bit to much, they can easily break. If the previous owner broke it, they may have installed a plug (not a good idea!) in a false effort to remedy the situation. Or they may have installed a completely different part. I would urge you to take a close look at the upper hose area, and see if another part has been installed rather than the standard 3.4L set up. You may wish to consult a dealer if in doubt about your particular engine configuration. Hope that helps.

[@Killaak187]

There's is a metal tube then it goes to a rubber hose then into overflow, well overflow is only way to put coolant in also, looks original it's 01 alero, I've changed ect sensor, looks to be leaking near water pump,changing that and fitting under "tower" with bleeder screw near water pump. Fans sometimes come on, but late, other times not at all. I bled what air out I could thru one screw, probably changing lower radiator hose while I'm at it

[@VintageVideos2009]

Kevin Sprad OK, it looks as though the 3.4L engine in the Alero is configured differently than the 3.4L engine for a minivan, be it Chevy Venture, Pontiac Montana or Old Silohuette. Unfortunately, I do not have experience with the Alero engine you have, however, I have read that it is prone to coolant and heating problems. You may want to consult a service manual for your make/model/year to ensure your are following the correct bleeding procedure.

[@thelagmeister]

@@VintageVideos2009 The gm 3.4 is pure evil.

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@thelagmeister Well, I wouldn't go so far to say it's evil. I've dealt with other engines that are less reliable and also harder to service. Both Ventures, with the 3.4l engine had over 165k miles. Not fantastic compared to some engines over 250k, but not horrible either. I wish you good luck with your vehicle!

[@gabrielmarquez6379]

Where is the bleeder screws for 07 Malibu ls v6 3.5l?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Gabriel, sorry my friend, I have not serviced that model or engine style, so I'm not sure where, or even if, that model engine has bleeder screws on it. Have you searched KZbin for that engine or vehicle to see if someone else did a video on it? Good luck sir, and thanks for watching and commenting on our video.

[@gabrielmarquez6379]

@@VintageVideos2009 yes I searched it on KZbin and nothing

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@gabrielmarquez6379 I did a search and the standard engine on a 2007 Chevy Malibu is a 3.9L 240HP engine. So, do you have your specs right - or perhaps an unusual engine in your particular vehicle?

[@gabrielmarquez6379]

@@VintageVideos2009 i know the 3.9l has a bleeder screw but mine is a 3 5L v6 idk if it has one at all thanks for doing research buddy

[@fazed_out4205]

I broke mine, and I had to order a new bleeder screw

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi fazed_out4205, yes, it's not unusual to break them off. You apply just a tiny bit too much pressure, and doink, there it goes. Fortunately, when it happened to me the first time, I had the valve closed, after bleeding the system, so I was OK for a while. But I did order one and replace it. I hope the rest of your repair went well. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.

[@bigtweezytv7622]

I got a brand new radiator I put it in emptied a whole bottle of coolant started the car the poured in more coolant till it was visible at the top. put cap back on and drive about 10 min and it went to red....overheating...HELP

[@pelon_whelpsvc]

Big Tweezy TV Did you ever figure out the issue?

[@BJB104]

I'm doing my this on a 4.3 and can't find any bleeder screws

[@VintageVideos2009]

Sorry, I haven't worked on the 4.3L, but my research suggests that it does not have bleeder screws. Assuming that is correct, you could consult your operator's manual, but we believe the standard method of running the engine, waiting for the thermostat to open, and filling via the radiator cap is typical. Be careful and safe with hot coolant, and never open the radiator cap when coolant is hot and under pressure. Good luck on your vehicle.

[@BJB104]

@@VintageVideos2009 thanks for the reply and safety warning! I think I got it figured out =)

[@dustybauder9920]

My heater don’t turn on n my bleeder is broke at the wp

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Dusty, thanks for watching our video and sharing your issues. A couple things come to mind. Yes, those little bleeder valves are a bit fragile, and do have a tendency to break off. You can buy replacement bleeder plugs however and remove the broken unit and replace it with the new one. In an emergency, you can actually loosen the entire plug, just enough, to let air vent out from the threads (yes, I had to do this myself)! It's not ideal, but may help you bleed the air out of your system that way. Do be careful though, not to loosen the threads too much, or the entire plug could pop off and fall into the engine compartment. That would be bad! So, to the lack of heat. Well, if you replace the bleeder plug, and successfully bleed the air out of your system - you should get the return of heat to your vehicle. If you still don't have heat after bleeding, you could have other issues, like a clogged heater, bad fuse or electrical problem, or even air vent actuators that are stuck in the closed position (or even a clogged cabin filter). First get the bleeder plug replaced, bleed the unit and see if your heat returns. Great questions - and hopefully this helps you get the heat back on.

[@76ChevyC10]

my bleeder screws are seized solid thanks to Canadian winters. I can just bleed it the old fashion way through the radiator cap, right?

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Rob ert, that is something of a problem. The radiator cap sits too low to effectively bleed the air out of the entire system. If you are able, can you remove the larger bleeder plug (the bleeder screws are attached on top of it)? We have had to do that, when one of the small bleeder screws broke off. I don't think bleeding through the radiator cap will allow all the air to properly vent out of your system. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments and we invite you to subscribe to our channel.

[@nickchelseagrin5333]

I ran the engine before doing it than shut it off while I did it I left the cap on cause I could not get to it

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

so weird. my 3.4 liter in the fwd torrent has got none of these where you are saying and I have not located any others.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Larry, what make and model year is your vehicle? This 2000 Chevy Venture may have a different coolant hose and manifold layout than your vehicle. We have seen other model vehicles that have a set up that is different from this minivan layout. Hope this helps.

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

2007 Pontiac torrent, same motor though, gm is funny hu? I figured it all out, they took away one of my bleed valves completely, i only have t he one on the passenger sd, left facing the engine, so it too forever to get the air out, what a pain!!!. must have been out there doing that for near two hours. then all of the sudden! POOF! everything came together at once, heater and cooling system are awesome, all check engine codes are gone. sept that stupid abs, goes on and off when you sneeze it seems. LOL great video! It was a great help actually. and also some of the comments were

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Larry, yes, we've had other comments here where just a few years later, while still a 3.4L engine, GM had changed some of the manifolds, bleeders and various hose configurations. With our 2000 Venture, having the bleeders very open and on top makes it relatively easy to bleed the air out. For us, it took maybe 10 minutes or so, rather than the two hours you had to endure. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@cjamesr0877]

It is not the same engine. The 3.4L in the Equinox and Torrent has a different VIN code designation. Everything under the hood is different from the 3.4L that was used in the Grand Am, minivans, and Impala.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Thanks for the clarification!

[@ednja]

I would flush out all that dexcool thoroughly and replace with green antifreeze.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi ed nja - well, many others have shared the same thoughts with you on the dexcool "experiment" a decade ago. Yes, we tend to agree that the green antifreeze is superior. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@richard2428]

The screw on the left is leaking...well its leaking from the bottom of the connection but its not loose....maybe a gasket??

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Richard, thanks for watching. You are likely noticing some moisture near the bottom of the left bleeder fixture. This was due to replacing that fixture, after the original bleeder broke off - it doesn't take much to have them break off. If you watch near the end of the video, I believe you'll see the moisture has been eliminated when the vehicle was running. You have a good set of eyes. The vehicle was fine after this repair and their was no leakage from either bleeder. We appreciate the chance to explain it all.

[@richard2428]

@@VintageVideos2009 i didn't explain that right lol while I did see that I was talking about my own 04 impala I just did a flush and im leaking from that fixture on the left where the bleeder screw going into maybe its below that I know my leak is on the passenger side of the vehicle

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@richard2428 Gotcha...OK, on your Impala. Well, hope you are able to find the source of the leak and make an easy and economical repair. Thanks again for watching and sharing your experience with your water pump.

[@richard2428]

@@VintageVideos2009 do you think ill have to replace that whole hose? Its the thermostat bypass hose

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@richard2428 Well, a 2004 you said, right? 16+ years old. You may be better off replacing it, if it's the cause of your leak, especially if you plan to keep your vehicle for a couple more years.

[@ronaldjones4095]

I broke the top screw off my bleeder valve. Does anyone know whether this is an easy fix or whether I should let a mechanic fix it? I don't know a lot about cars but I try a little something here and there.

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Ronald Jones, that darn bleeder valve screw is so, so easy to break off, with just the slightest bit of too much torque applied. We would suggest contacting a dealer to get a replacement part - I know they have them, because I broke the bleeder valve off myself. Hopefully it broke in the closed position. If it did, and it is closed, you can actually loosen the entire fitting, and instead of using the bleeder valve, loosen the fitting to allow air to exit the system then tighten the fitting back down. This may work in the short term, for a quick bleed, but we urge you to get the replacement part as soon as possible. Thanks for the great question.

[@xephael3485]

You open the bleeders while the car is running dude...

[@VintageVideos2009]

You can do so, but very carefully, because the hot coolant can spray all over and cause serious injury. You will also need to expel air from the heater hose, while the hot coolant is flowing through, if you do this process while the engine is hot and running. Both methods will complete the job successfully.

[@reaperofsouls4946]

no

[@anthonyrizzo5973]

Flush that junk dex cool out. Save yourself some headaches later on

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Anthony Rizzo, yes, glad GM went away from using the stuff, but unfortunately it was in thousands and thousands of vehicles. Thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@ernestobautista1810]

replasement front line brek

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi ernesto, are you wondering if this video is about a front brake line repair? If so, no, I'm sorry, this video involved the method for bleeding your coolant, on a Chevy 3.4L engine. Wishing you the best of luck if you need a brake repair.

[@ernestobautista1810]

tenkio

[@daveyjones6003]

This isn't even a 3.4L V6 its a 3800! I know their close to the same engine but in regards to the coolant they are not the same! The 3.4L has no Bleed screws. thanks for the help......

[@VintageVideos2009]

David Linn David, appreciate your comments but contrary to your thinking, yes it is indeed a 3400 SFI! And it does have bleed screws. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHSyoGpsndhpl5Y The video link attached was shot with the exact same vehicle. And if you look closely on the top of the engine, you'll see the 3400 SFI raised lettering. We have also owned/serviced a 1997 Chevy Venture with a 3400 or 3.4L engine, that also has the same bleed screw arrangement. We just wanted to set the record straight so our viewers with a 3400 will be able to complete their service correctly.

[@daveo211]

3.4L and 3.8L share nothing in common other than both being a V6. This is a 3.4 most definitely. 3800 is so much better though.

[@b-bitter91]

I have 3.4 and mine has 7mm bleeder screws same as in the video

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi B-Bitter, yes, the 7mm bleeder screws are utilized on the 3.4L engine. Also, thanks for watching and sharing your comments.

[@xephael3485]

Not a 3.4L V6? How did he get intake manifold installed that says 3400 SFI then?

[@jerryapplegate8678]

This seems incorrect

[@VintageVideos2009]

Hi Jerry, there is another method, which some use - opening the bleeder screws while the vehicle is running and expelling the air and hot coolant from the bleeder screw location. You can see why hot coolant spraying out from these tiny vehicles under pressure is not the safest, nor most practical method to remove the air. Thanks for watching and sharing your comment.

[@crackseller321]

dex cool sorry about that

[@VintageVideos2009]

Ya know,...Dex cool, sex cool...let's face it, they both get hot and sticky and sometimes spew all over the place and require a lot of clean up. :)

[@butchrudd2938]

VintageVideos2009 no

[@reaperofsouls4946]

so wrong

[@VintageVideos2009]

Right? However, bleeding air from this closed system is the needed for proper operation.

[@gyroonesix5862]

Amateur.....

[@VintageVideos2009]

Yes, amateurs can complete this job, in a minimal amount of time and save a lot of money vs the $100/hour charge at some locations.

[@reaperofsouls4946]

no jackass

[@VintageVideos2009]

This is a method for removing air from the closed coolant system found on this Chevy Venture.

[@reaperofsouls4946]

@@VintageVideos2009 still not what chevy says to do it right.

[@VintageVideos2009]

@@reaperofsouls4946 There are various methods described by a number of sources. Can you share please share the entire process, and please site your Chevy source, so our viewers can make an educated decision on the process. I have read, and seen many versions of how to bleed this particular model. There are also different techniques used to bleed different engine types, also from Chevy, and also different techniques for the Chevy Venture/Uplander/Montana/etc models, depending on what model year of the vehicle. Please describe the process you are aware of, and can you share what service manual you are using for the process. That would be very, very helpful.