How to finish BRICK to DRYWALL transition!!!

[@timdaniels6641]

I'm retired and volunteering on a project to build tiny houses for homeless young adults. I have the basic handyperson skills, but I've never done drywall and your videos have been extremely helpful. The other volunteers were impressed with the California patch. Thanks

[@within_cells]

I had never seen this type of corner bead until I started my carpenter job with my local government. There are so many "drop" ceilings (our word for T bar) and walls are getting built and torn down all the time. It's an awesome product! Your videos have been integral to improving my finishing skills. Keep up the good work!

[@rupe53]

@T.J. Kong ... I have also used trim boards to hide a gap. If one side happens to ride a bit high you can also use a cap molding, like what we used back when we put beadboard or paneling on the lower half of a wall. You can fine tune the offset with with a power planer to take off just enough for it to lay flat.

[@susanwayne3333]

Even tho you feel like you've taught this before this shows the method with a different application. For us learning seeing different applications helps solidify the learning. So helpful.

[@OGJD1984]

You can seamlessly fill a gap like that between the brick and sheetrock with a tile grout that matches the brick mortar. The grout must be applied after the sheetrock is completely painted and dried so you can wipe it clean from the wall. Using a grout bag and a good touch with a sponge you can create an amazing clean line. I've had to do it a few times installing fire place surround against existing sheetrock. A view from a fireplace/tile guy instead of a sheetrock guy.

[@OGJD1984]

@Roman Desnoyers I respect that idea but I feel like I could wipe the brick clean and if some of the grout bleeds into the mortar it will just help the blending process of the two finishes. I resist using tape because with all the water and wiping I'll generally work some behind it and have to clean that up after the tape has been removed. I've been doing tile professionally for about 15 years and I've filled almost those exact same gaps with grout before.

[@OGJD1984]

@Roman Desnoyers Working with a real pro sheetrock guy like yourself always makes my job a lot easier. If you gave me an edge like that to work with I would do the rest.

[@OGJD1984]

@Roman Desnoyers Depends on the grout how bad it will bleed into the bricks or at all but the solution to that would be to seal the bricks before hand. Sealers are also called grout release sometimes. It would keep the color from bleeding into the bricks and help them stay nicer looking over time.

[@ericsw03]

I can't imagine that wouldn't crack within a year or 2 max.

[@OGJD1984]

@@ericsw03 If the brick and sheetrock are attached to the same wall it will move as one unit and likely never crack. There is also many options on what grout to use. You can use a more flexable grout if you think the joint is prone to cracking. Urethane, acrylic, silicon, calcium alumate, cement, there's even more grout formulas. Pretty easy to match that gray mortar and make a really nice joint. The straight line of the sheetrock mud and plastic end cap used in the video won't get in all those joints and it will have gaps as you can see on the video. Another approach would be to do both and grout that gap between the plastic piece and the brick. This is a very similar joint to the ones I do on every shower where the tile vertical edge meets the sheetrock. Grout works fine on that joint.

[@kmonnier]

I used your knife scraping method and it saved me a bunch of time. Your videos also show what matters and what doesn’t matter to make a flat wall without wasting a time. Thanks

[@klmbuilders5385]

I'd never seen this product until now. I just finished installing drywall in a framed in garage opening iin a basement. I used C channel on the edge of the drywall where it contacted the edge of the block foundation. It looks ok but it was a chore getting it on the edge of the partially screwed drywall. I'll certainly look into tearaway bead in the future. Thanks for your videos, Ben.

[@oldskoolwayy]

I like how his videos just come on and he gets right to the point vs. Other KZbinrs with all the graphics and intro music ect..

[@ava_gates]

The thing you said about putting this stuff on the bottom of drywall to get a seamless baseboards is literally exactly what I was going to do. You read my novice mind!

[@GarageWoodworks]

I really enjoy your videos. If I could give a technical video tip, turn autofocus off on your camera for close ups and set the focus on the work. This prevents autofocus from focusing on your body in the foreground making the work out of focus.

[@davidlallave9452]

Ŕ t4

[@mysterymaker7516]

This guy knows all the tricks of the trades . Can tell this guy has experience .

[@KuriusOranj]

Looks darn fine! I've seen these after install, but never installed one myself (painter, not a taper). Thanks for the video! Also, sending hugs out to all the folks out your way who have been dealing with the outrageous flooding. I hope Mother Nature has tired herself out, and is done for the season.

[@idacian74]

Finally you got to work on this part of the wall, I was waiting for this far to long. Now im ready to do mine, sat on it for months to see your trick! Thank you, THANK YOU so much! Mr Vancouverite. 🤗

[@jamesmcfadden5214]

I just removed a fiberglass shower on the reno were workoing on. And the edge against the shower was finished this way and it was very clean and STRONG. That stuff was definitely stuck good

[@FrancoDFernando]

I used the tear away bead recently because of your drywall to wood video! I had a drywall to cabinetry transition, and thanks to your video, it looks great! Before I ran into your video months ago, I was literally going to do what you cautioned against in that video, which was to tape the transition and put drywall over both haha

[@bmills4889]

Im a drywall finisher and in my Union we use Trim Tex spray adhesive for tear away, u could staple or nail it but it doesn't work good as the spray but it works the way he does it nice job!

[@h4z4rd42]

Just wanted to thank you for making and sharing your awesome videos, I've learned a lot from you. Your tricks and methods came pretty handy as I'm remodelling my house. Keep up the good work; greetings from Hungary

[@nellz8877]

OMG! This is exactly what i needed. Love your channel. You have been instrumental in our attic finishing project. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

[@charlesray4064]

Could use an artist brush to push paint into the areas where the wood shows.

[@cognitive-carpenter]

Had the same thoughts

[@gillismaltais2754]

I've installed that same bead with only setting compound and it was fine, but I like that your going the extra mile with the glue and the mesh tape

[@jasoncurtis1793]

Dude this is sweet. I've been searching trying trying to figure out how to do the transition from drywall to a schluter edge on tile in my bathroom. Definitely gonna go this route

[@nonnonsence]

You started to finish before the bead was installed???? You definitely a carpenter, you're making this a hell of a lot more difficult than it needs to be.

[@screwgunsupernova]

I just used another video’s method for this and it turned out like garbage… luckily I did it on a test piece of drywall first. Looking forward to trying this method and hopefully get some better results! Thanks

[@limogesfarmer6326]

This is exactly the job I have to do at my place, and I had no idea how I was going to do it! For that plug: do what you did with the switch: remove it or switch to a smaller blade for the gap between the plug and the brick. I abosol;utely love the detail you go to: very good. Especially when you get the close-ups of the important stuff. Will you be installing the tear-away on the ceiling to brick connection?

[@howtodoitdude1662]

Use a J molding and your done. The best way to handle that outlet box is to remove the receptacle, push in the wires and finish the wall. Once everything is dry you can just remove the excess dried compound in the box. Reinstall the outlet.

[@maryloutyler4766]

Thanks!

[@vancouvercarpenter]

My pleasure :) and thank you!!!!

[@tmise50]

Looks great! Would you do the same where the ceiling drywall wraps around the brick?

[@gloriastargirl]

Can’t believe I just watched the trilogy! Enjoyed your presentation.

[@danswojanovski2549]

Good fix, tear away strip allows the owner to finish brick edge with mortar or mortar caulking as well if they don't like the wood. Painting it would work as well as you described. Thanks for sharing you techniques and knowledge it has helped me tremendously!

[@fbad3]

You do great work, Ben. In Ben's work we trust.

[@SteveHit1]

Very impressive result! Thanks for the detailed tutorial.

[@faithhopelove7777777]

Thanks, I need to do this around my fireplace where it's seperated and made small cracks over the years.

[@leviathanx0815]

My drywaller taught me that trick with using fiberglass drywall tape. I have been doing this on magic corner and all metal corners since then and it is so much better than without. It's so much sturdier than without and the mud sticks just perfect. Also the dried mud is not shine-through at all after just two coats. (Ya, I don't know what happened here, but after applying primer and plaster to the finished surface, all little holes shone through when I went with the "classic method".)

[@treystills]

I use the arch tear aware bead which conforms to the irregularities much better. thanks for posting!!!

[@stevehill5637]

I learn a lot with each video. Thank you. Cool product.

[@JV-pu8kx]

For the shadow line, you could use a dark colored caulk. We used a bronze colored caulk where the cope-cut luon paneling met the stone chimney.

[@sawdustadikt979]

Again, the glue in the quickset is the key. I wish I knew that 20 years ago. I have been installing the tear away in a similar way where I get no cracks by using a narrow crown stapler and then mesh taping over that. Coating with setting mud and pushing it into the mesh and all the holes of the tear away. I’m so gunna try your mud setting technique next opportunity I get.

[@edover50]

Really ripped this one Ben. It’s always great to have options available (especially when you run out of super 77)

[@manuelvalenzuela1180]

im a union carpenter drywaller and metal framer local 909 thats exactly how you do it great job

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Thanks!

[@bigboss9427]

In the house my family just put on the market, we just put wood trim over the transition because there was wood trim everywhere else so it didn't look terrible with the rest of the room.

[@22shroomster]

this stuff works great. I use it all the time. Maybe do a video on archway bead. Same vinyl material but can be tricky if you don't know what you are doing.

[@brianszymanski2971]

Metal L bead is what we used in the commercial construction industry. Especially at the top of walls that butt against the acoustical ceiling system or T bar. Also with transition against brick wall,CMU blocks.

[@JayAlfredoG]

I kind of do this when I use corner bead. I overlap the edge with a layer of paper tape. Helps keep the stupid edge of the bead from cracking. Especially if using drying mud and not setting.

[@rsmith7292]

Mud warranty!?!? reminds me of when I did more roofing -- shingles were "guaranteed" -- you get a pallet of new shingles, Not installed and the defective ones not removed. LOL! Thanks for the great instructions!

[@constantinmanzu7182]

J beads or also called edge beads can be used, honestly I would recommend them rather than an angle bead as they fit perfectly on the plaster board edge, as they come in both sizes

[@TheTechGuider]

Suspended cieling we call it in the states. Or drop ceiling.

[@jamesmcfadden5214]

If im not mistaken the technical name is an acoustical ceiling.

[@Phazetic99]

@@jamesmcfadden5214 I've heard it called all those names interchangably haha

[@evictioncarpentry2628]

Suspended, drop, Tbar, acoustic. Everyone uses a different word up here in Canada.

[@masonhales]

This guy is an artist.

[@tyroneclarke1666]

Very nice job done right there Ben. Cheers 🦘🇦🇺

[@thomaslamora1679]

damn... double damn... i could have used this video literally 3 weeks ago. mine came out ok, but it was a LOT more fiddly. nice work.

[@dubloduce]

The best way to transition I've found is to protect the brick with tape and spray foam. Cut it back with a multi tool saw and quick set over it. It's seamless.

[@herrrnn]

what would be the best way to finish off the bottom of the drywall for a shadow reveal or none baseboard look

[@ENFsinger]

Should get yourself a pan mini mixer, I love mine use it every time I need to mix up 20min mud or any prefill type mud and so on.

[@veepsgarage]

I was racking my brain on what so do for a similar application. I just bought year away bead to install this week. Have you ever used spray glue to install first? I’ve seen many people use spray glue to set the bead and then they mud over it.

[@joephillips6634]

I think filling in the gaps with mortar would be the best looking option but seems like a bit more work

[@Zenkai76]

The tear away was so satisfying

[@jimgill7524]

Love tear away bead, use it all the time.

[@johnbrain8408]

alternately when you hang the drywall your can scribe the drywall to fit. Use a compass set at two inches or so, hold a piece of drywall up close to the brick or stone, then follow the contour of the brick making a parrallel line on the drywall. carefully saw or router the exact line. Next cut the drywall to land on a stud and fasten. Now the very fine gab between the drywall and brick can be caulked.

[@vegetablesoup777]

I appreciate you driving the point home about riding the nose. I'm an ISM and although I don't finish these products, I do set them. We recently renovated a family house, they had their "taper" friend do the finishing. I had installed quite a few of these beads in the addition against the brick, dude tried to just cover the holes, leaving that nose exposed (and covered in crusties) everywhere. He also masking taped the tear away bit :s It was hell but stayed after he left one night scraping them all and finished them all myself. If you do happen to see this comment, I wanted to say I've really appreciated your videos and they have helped me many times on side jobs when I'm outside my scope. Also.. just in case anyone needs to know this, that spray adhesive is for plastic beads only.. I also had to remove and replace the paper bullnose beads he sprayed on. The guy does very well for himself it seems but I'm not sure how lol

[@TheOldBlackCrow]

Oh, great drywall master! Great video! Yesterday, we had a new tankless water heater installed and had to cut some drywall to install a few pipes. Do you have a video on how to drywall around water pipes that are already installed? Thanks!

[@stevehairston9940]

They make a commercial non-tear away bead for what we (in Texas) call "grid wall's" to finish walls that butt to grid ceilings and make it look like there's wall angle that the grid is sitting on. It comes in standard 15/16 and 9/16 thin line grid profiles.

[@1.5Deg_Is_NonNegotiable]

Just in time! I have a several stone-to-drywall transitions in an interior fireplace that need to be streamlined and I was wondering how to do it. Really like the look of the finished product. I wonder if you can get in there with a small artist's brush to paint some of the wider crevice's in the transition?

[@lillithjones993]

How did it turn out? I framed my fireplace for an insert using cement board and want to use this next to the pre-cast stone.

[@3tI8P-lj2lo]

Do you have a video on how you handle this transition where instead of exposed brick, there's traditional plaster parged onto the brick. So the goal is a wall that's part drywall on study and part plaster on brick look like it's one continuous plaster wall. How do you do it so you prevent cracking? Do you bridge the gap with mesh?

[@Lakanen263]

Thanks for all the tips and tricks

[@mattdwm9731]

I hate working around electrical boxes too so whenever possible, I'll remove the the outlet or switch and tuck the wires. (Having the ability to do electrical is a plus).

[@vancouvercarpenter]

I am without that ability🤣

[@awesomead]

Trimtex also makes an L-edge with a 1" flange which would be perfect for covering that wood edge (provided it doesn't bind on the bricks). Only downside is that you don't have the nice tearaway part so you would want to mask the brick before filling

[@billyword1349]

I like the tear away, but I think masking a straight line on the brick and caulking the gap with polyurethane before painting would have left a better finished product, especially with the mortar as uneven as it is. Just my opinion. Love your videos!

[@lindseychaney3987]

I was wandering how you was going to finish the cut off. Very nice job!!!

[@davidjackson4112]

Looks nice. Excellent job, well done.

[@mitchelljermaine]

20:04 "Looks pretty good"... good lord; the finished edges are perfect.

[@Griswald2000]

Another good video! I'm in Kamloops and was wondering how would you transition from a drywalling a wall to an unfinished ceiling that will remain exposed? Is it worth while to trim it or just leave it bare as no one can see down on a nine foot wall?

[@dalespringerwilson4233]

What about at a 90° angle brick to drywall or wood ? Have four corners in my breezeway inside '90s that I can't figure out how to do it without looking like it was just caulked. Plus I'm in Florida and it's damp ish sometimes.

[@ENFsinger]

Didja learn taping the bead legs from ice rock drywall 🤷🏻‍♂️ that’s where I got that trick with fiba fuse, also Makes it so you don’t have to put as much mud to finish. 👌🏻

[@jim-cu9yp]

It does give a nice finish without to much messing around

[@Richard-Freeman]

I needed this video 6 months ago.... Oh man.... Well, at least next time I'll know. Though, it was a 50 degree angle. Not sure if this would work for that.

[@toddheath7283]

Wish I could see a video of how to match texture from old drywall on a new section and how to match a new wall to existing textured ceiling

[@tombushell5375]

Wouldn't you use a Lbead that has a longer flange on it too cover up the wood?

[@nixxonnor]

When making a batter for pancakes or wafles I always add the milk (the wet stuff) to the flour (the dry stuff). After adding about half of the total amount of the wet stuff it is easy to work out the lumps in the thick batter before adding the rest of the wet stuff. When all the wet stuff is added, the mixture is so runny that it is hard to get rid of any lumps. If I add the dry stuff to the wet stuff it is very hard to get rid of the lumps in the runny mixture. Thus I think it would be easier to get a smooth mud if you add the water/glue mixture to the mud powder. What do you guys think?

[@TheOfficialDjProduct]

I always add the water to my hot mud (what we call quickset). But I think cause he was adding glue he figured it'd be easier to mix the water and glue first idk.

[@juleeleison2686]

I've never seen this bead before. I have to do this in the next room. I'm old and too slow for quick-set; will the same technique work with all-purpose mud? And how will I know the glue ratio is right?

[@ArkvaleColoniser]

Do you prefer not to use staples to hold your beads in position before you glue them in?

[@dhammer5645]

It's probably already done, but you could get a mortar bag and fill the gap between the brick and the tear away bead with mortar or some mortar coloured caulking. Just add some bonder to the mortar if you use mortar.

[@dhammer5645]

@Phlebas True but Vancouver Carpenter has worked with a similar material before. I believe it was stucco.

[@Phazetic99]

I was going to say the same thing, but you beat me. You would have to "point" the mortar you put on as well to blend it with the existing mortar but it is pretty easy to do. I know if this was my job I would probably suggest doing it. Mortar bags are inexpensive, so is the mortar. You could probably make your own pointer at of scrap wood.

[@wkobayashim]

Thank you for the video. I didn't know you weren't supposed to bury the plastic edge.

[@maddiehilbrant4393]

Question! So will you caulk those open gaps? We currently have gaps in our home from the previous owners and I don’t want to do the whole bead thing but am wondering if caulk works.

[@Hotsauce-cj7kj]

Great video. This particular variable of housing carpentry immediately caught my wonder.

[@danielstrole6751]

Just as a thought, could you cut the edge of the brick at a 45 then caulking between the wall and brick making it look like a expansion joint?

[@jerseyjim9092]

Could you also have used spray adhesive as with corner bead?.

[@AA-rc4zr]

Hey Ben, you make it look so easy. I just installed a 16” wide by 8’ length piece if drywall. My first attempt at doing this kinda work. I spend good part of a day trying to get it right after watching your videos. Tried 2-3 coats. Still Not perfect. I ended up with two bumps at the edges. I should have spent more time fussing with it. To be honest I would have happily paid up to $200 for the job to have a pro do it. In my area it’s hard to find people to do small jobs like this. In most cases the outcome would be only slightly better than what I did. Alas, I’ll have to do it myself and try to get better at it.

[@skiball83]

$200 is why nobody is coming. $400 is reasonable. Just saying buddy.

[@AA-rc4zr]

For 2-3 hours work?

[@vancouvercarpenter]

It's more about how much time out of someones day it takes. Let's say I have a job I can spend a whole day at or I can spend a couple of half days at a bigger job and a couple of half day trips at your job. Both of those trips should be a $200 minimum. $400 is kind of the bare minimum you should pay anyone to do that job. Small jobs are actually a major PIA and totally cut into the timelines and productivity of larger better paying jobs. So the first commenter was right. $200 is not enough and if anyone would be willing to do it for that rate you might still end up looking at two humps on the wall and be out $200.

[@skiball83]

@@vancouvercarpenter thanks buddy.

[@timothywaterman1511]

Mortar grey chinking is what I've used to finish something like this off. Also looks great on the top and bottom edges where brick meets the floor and the lid. Both permachink and sashco make excellent products. Tool with a damp 1" foam brush for the win

[@johnbrain8408]

Alternately the brick or stone mason can hang the drywall before doing the face of the brick or stone. Or the stone or brick mason can attack a 3/4 " board before installing the face and there is room to slide the drywall behind the stone or brick. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

[@marcthibault8723]

Could you use Fibafuse instead of mesh tape on the bead? Tx 😊👍

[@vancouvercarpenter]

Yes you can.

[@crystalweber5098]

What do you recommend for a corner wall where brick buttons up to drywall?

[@agirlhasnoname6306]

Awesome video tutorial

[@jackjax532]

That's good information. Thank you Ben.

[@joeredman8161]

Could you make a video for bull nose corners? Great stuff!

[@HotspotsSoutheast]

For little cracks like that take a small artists brush or cut some bristles off a larger brush and wrap them in tape and attach to a pencil, then dab the end in paint and carefully push the paint back into the crack.

[@terrycraig3468]

Why not mask off brick and fill and flat tape?

[@josephlangille-m3c]

whoever repointed that chimney, did a horrible job. nice video ben, i originally found you through skateboarding, really enjoying this channel a lot. cheers.

[@DeuceGenius]

that looks beautiful

[@globyois]

Cool. Might try that sometime.

[@mostlikelywedoitservices6926]

When mixing in pan. Just go buy a cheap helix paint mixer. Not the 5 gallon size one. It fits the bottom of the pan. Its supper fast and it makes the mud smooth. Excellent when working with 5 min mud. And it is better then the kitchen mixer paddle in my opinion.

[@Mrdealornodeal618]

Can this plastic corner bead also be used with plaster walls?

[@ryannoble5451]

I'd probably point that seam with mortar on the brick side to make it seamless