How to fix a squealing Mainline Railways Royal Scot Locomotive. Good for beginners

[@dj_efk]

A good video - Coming to this a couple of years late but for the benefit of others: Only thing left to do is take the wheel set out of the slots very carefully, clean the slots and the axles with alcohol or contact cleaner, then check for splits, (if any are found then replace the duff ones and re-quarter) and lightly lubricate with conductive grease - I use Hotspot made by a company called Slipstream Lubricants, which is tacky enough but not too thick - I find oil doesn’t stay where you want it and hence the axle slots will wear out. As others have said, Bachmann split chassis’ were a better design with a more powerful motor and better axle design as well as other improvements - they can be used to upgrade this model if you can find one - the part number is 35-150

[@charlie1872]

Thanks for this info I will certainly follow up with that. Interestingly you mention the Bachman Split Chassis, I have a V1 and shortly after I got it I was running it when it fell over. The one wheel came off including half the axle. I haven’t got around to looking at it but understand it is not uncommon . Cheers. Charlie

[@dwansbo]

The screeching sound was the phosphor bronze bush in the faceplate of the ring field motor, a common problem, also with Lima and Hornby. A tiny drop of oil is all that is needed, do not overkill the loco though, it can cause the plastic chassis parts to distort!

[@charlie1872]

Yes that seems to be the common denominator on Ringfields. Thanks for watching and I really appreciate you taking the time to comment Derek👍

[@PeterJewell2]

It's a characteristic noise, with an easy fix - but only when you learn what it is! It was many years before I found out.

[@Tauraco00]

Oh I was not sure gave mine away, did not know how to fix it😊🌟⭐

[@christopherhill3302]

Hi Charlie, Mainline chassis were pretty badly designed, bit when Bachmann bought the brand they put in their own chassis - which they continue to do today. Bad news is that prices in the UK have reached about £175 for a Stanier 4-6-0. What people have been doing in the UK is, switching the mainline chassis for an early Bachmann chassis, bought on ebay or a toy fair, so the result is a decent loco for about £70/£80 quid. If you want really good runners, try to get a Wrenn or 2- Rail Hornby Dublo - 1950's tech and engineering - can't beat it! You can bounce them off the floor and only chip the paint!!! Cheers

[@charlie1872]

Thanks very much for taking the time to respond with such detailed information. I wasn’t aware of that practice and it is amazing how inventive Men in Sheds can be

[@charlie1872]

I have one Hornby Dublo A4 which does run well but there is a bit of a rattle from it. All of my stock is DC and that might be another issue and I am too far in at this point to start changing the locos to DCC. However a number of years ago I did buy The Hornby DCC controller and one chip but never got around to doing anything about it; I was involved in project coordination at work and that involved extensive travel at the time. My plan is to add a third track and I might consider making that a DCC line. The Wrenn locos are much sought after here in Toronto and command a high price. Frustrating though it is, I must admit I get a level of satisfaction when I can solve a problem with one of these locos. My Triang Princesses still run relatively well after all those years. Cheers Christopher

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

It seems that most of the ringfield motors have this issue at times... the derailing issue, from what I noticed is the front coupling arm is bent downwards a little too much and the bottom of the hook pin is touching the points as it goes over them and then forces the loco off the tracks I have had this issue many times and it is rectified by bending the D part of the coupling upwards so that the lower end of the hook is above the height of the points.

[@charlie1872]

Great insight and explanation. Thanks so very much. There seems to be so many combinations which can affect the smooth running of the locos. I haven’t going through all my locos checking them all for bad wheels, incorrect gauge and found the one Blue Pullman with the twisted chassis which caused the wheels to be ever so slightly out of line. Thanks for the notes on the bogey. Cheers

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

Enjoyed the video today .Got my support.Hope there more.

[@charlie1872]

Lots to see, just have a look around my channel. Thanks for watching and for leaving a comment👍m.kzbin.infovideos

[@medwaymodelrailway7129]

@@charlie1872 Thanks Charlie

[@paulhiggins1210]

Nearly 700 subs Charlie your doing well another cracking locomotive cheers mate 👍

[@charlie1872]

Thanks Paul. Working hard at it trying to put up interesting and worthwhile stuff. Not easy to get subscribers even with a lot of effort. Really is a nice model and it sat in the box because I didn’t know how to fix it, but I got there 👍

[@nigelsabin1713]

Buffalo Bill!!!! I luv it!!!!

[@Flymochairman1]

Nice running session Charlie. Good to do a bit of problem solving and as is often the case, a wee touch of oil. Not always but sometimes. You have a very nice model there. Would your Rheostat Controller take the ac side from the Clipper, just looking at the two yellow wires? My Clipper measures 16 volts on the ac side so I'd presume a bridge rectifier is built into the circuitry of the Slave Controller rheostat if it has a dc red/black output to track. Don't take my word for it though! I didn't get a good look at the underside. I have a bench-mount Gaugemaster Q unit that takes similar supply though. Hope that helps and thanks for the nice running session there. Keep Safe, now. Cheers!

[@andyrussell7506]

Charlie 16 volts ac input should be yellow wires and 12 volt supply out red and black wires go to your track on that controller simple. Our club had those years ago

[@charlie1872]

Thanks Andy, is it useful? You got rid of it?

[@andyrussell7506]

@@charlie1872 Honestly cant remember what happened to it we moved on to Gaugemaster panel mount with inertia control fitted. It worked just like any other control of that period

[@Flymochairman1]

Nice one Andy, that's what I thought.

[@Dreadtower]

A beautiful unrebuilt Scot in crimson with … wagons. I mean … wagons!

[@charlie1872]

Thanks for posting this comment, really appreciate you taking the time. cheers

[@daverobinson-tq4yk]

Hi Partick! My 9F Did that too! when the brass cog is not in the right place! the spindle will drive out of balance? The other problem is the windings in wrong distance from end of shaft? The balance position is all wrong? My tool of fix was found to be, A Hollow Tube! to shift the spindle to the right distance....Dave....

[@charlie1872]

Dave, Sounds like a solution. I have a few cogs to replace and will be scheduling them among my other chores. Thanks for dropping the note regards Charlie

[@christopherhill3302]

Hi Charlie, I am doing a quick catch-up on yr railway vids. Did you finish yr Turbomotive? Sad she came to such a sad end after being rebuilt by British Railways. Stainer was willing to experiment during his time at the LMS. I presume you are familiar with Fury - a high pressure boiler version of a Royal Scot/Patriot - also converted post WW2. Being a southerner I am also a fan of O V S Bullied - turf burner et al!!!! Great vids

[@charlie1872]

Good morning Christopher, it is on the list of multiple tasks to be completed. I found an article in an old Railway modeller which started my interest in trying to modify an old Triang Princess. I will get there. Thanks for checking it out 👍

[@graemeraven3177]

Make sure the wire hanging down from either side of the body shell go behind the wheels.

[@charlie1872]

Hi Graeme, I will check that out. Thanks👍

[@Colin399]

Send it to OO Bill

[@charlie1872]

Hi Colin, I chat with Bill often and have solved some issues with him off line. Great guy. Thanks for taking the time to post the note