How to fix annoying boost venting! -Focus ST

[@FreshlySnipes]

I am installing one of these on my ‘15 ST tomorrow morning at Gearheads in Oceanside, then going on a canyon run with a couple other SD ST’s.

[@43v3rsd9]

Im getting a st this weekend I'm in sd are there any st crews local?

[@FreshlySnipes]

@@43v3rsd9 yeah there are a couple of us. Pm me your phone number and I’ll send you a text

[@-PLAYER0NE-]

I love the pre face lift grill. I have a 2016 and i wish they had kept that look but oh well.

[@gapperformance]

I’m sure you could find a pretty cheap 2013-2014. Or swap someone a clean bumper and hood for yours, lots of people like the upgraded look! Although headlight swap would also get tricky I think

[@dham99]

So all that...and we don't get to hear it? I installed my TS 50/50 bov when I bought my car, was one of my first mods. Obviously not a 'performance' mod..but it was cool at the time. Fast forward 3.5 years and tbo, I still don't mind the sound. I have been curious if its adjusted properly, and it does seem to go off quite easily...basically under ANY boost it goes off. Brian from JST said even in his first revision of my tune he'd reduce its frequency, but i didnt change it at all. I'm thinking I need to take it off and check it out. I def do make boost, I've hit over 23psi. I'd like to see/hear the difference in adjustments.. fully in, two turns out, fully out, etc. Does it adjust how easily it goes off? Is it a manual way to adjust the RPMs it goes off? Maybe an upgraded (tougher/higher rated spring) will force it to go off only after more boost? Either way, thanks for the video..I just installed lowering springs from H&R and saw it sitting there..thought just yesetrday, "I should remove it and inspect it"...funny timing lol.

[@gapperformance]

dham99 hey thanks for watching! I didn’t notice a noise difference in the springs tension, but more how easily you could manipulate it to “blow off.” Didn’t do a sound clip because there are tons of videos, but very few with maintenance for them. Thanks for watching! And yeah Brian from JST is awesome and did a fantastic tune for my RS.

[@ryanbedard3923]

Awesome vid guys, very well done! Where are you guys from? 👍 and subbed by the way 🤟

[@gapperformance]

Ryan Bedard thanks! Up here in Minnesota, where it’s nice and cold haha

[@ryanbedard3923]

Casual Car Talk - right on, I’m up in British Columbia Canada where it’s cold and white also!!

[@CrazyUnicorn48]

My blow off valve would go stupid on the Cobb ots tune. Got a pro tune and fixed it👌

[@gapperformance]

NeonBlueApple good man pro tunes are WAYYYYY better

[@LCARS359]

left the zip tie for the symposer harness on the plug.

[@gapperformance]

Haha my buddy pointed that out after watching. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!

[@AutoSteps]

you put it to max soft or max hard then 2 turns back?

[@gapperformance]

Max hard (righty tighty) and then back (lefty loosie) two full rotations back.

[@durtyqtip127]

Great video. I was having a similar issue on my 2018 ST where under an 80mph cruise or light acceleration I'd hear boost release, This corrected the problem. Although now instead of an annoying pssshh every 3secs I get a constant low whistle only when accelerating. Could it be some adapter along the line need to be reclamped or is that normal for you as well. Thank you.

[@gapperformance]

Jacob Pennington you can use soapy water along the lines to look for air leaks, but you will hear some turbo spool (whistle?) as you accelerate especially at partial throttle. If you hear it under wide open throttle I’d pay more attention to it. Thanks for watching, hit me with a subscribe if you haven’t!

[@durtyqtip127]

@@gapperformance thanks for the quick reply.

[@CoryAtRandom]

I think those are great cars. Nice videos!!! Keep making them!!!

[@gapperformance]

Cory Turner Talks Cars thank you! Much appreciated

[@gapperformance]

@@dubbydeuce2302 did you run the true boost line reference? If you don’t use the little hose line in the video to tap true reference, it’ll keep venting. If that doesn’t do the trick make sure the bov isn’t tilted or cross threaded onto the turbo. Be gentle with those little bolts and remember the orientation of the bov only lines up the three screw holes in one way. They (the mounting holes on the bov) aren’t perfect thirds apart if that makes sense

[@gapperformance]

@@dubbydeuce2302 was it new or used? It could be a malfunctioning bov or internally broken. Only other thing I can think of is a massive boost leak somewhere. I think I made a video on how to do a boost leak test on my buddys fiat

[@gapperformance]

@@dubbydeuce2302 glad to hear it’s fixed!

[@israelochoa873]

My st 2013 is only making half boost instead of the full 25 , my buddy that’s a mechanic told me it was the boost gauge that I would need to upgrade it, would that be it or no ? I need opinions or facts lol

[@gapperformance]

The boost gauge on the cluster is completely inaccurate. Which gauge are you using? If it’s aftermarket then it should read closer to real boost.

[@israelochoa873]

@@gapperformance I realized it was my tune smh it needed to be retuned and that’s it haha but I’m using glow shift boost gauge

[@C4Services]

What size hose is that? I have a new cold air intake coming in and seen a video on the rs st group on fb.

[@C4Services]

Mine does the same venting with no boost.

[@gapperformance]

I can’t remember off the top of my head. I used fuel line from Oreillys and had them cut it to length. Use whatever fits on your bov and then get a little set of those white plastic hose adaptors and some tiny clamps (or just use zip ties) to secure them. I’d physically bring your bov in to Oreillys or autozone and have them help you find the right size to be safe. It’s just a boost reference, so the size of the line is less important since it’s a pressure measurement.

[@C4Services]

I rewarded the video it said 3/16 lol I missed it. I ordered some red hose. Ya my bov blows off constantly its kinds annoying

[@gapperformance]

@@C4Services yeah it drove me absolutely insane so I went forum digging and found this fix and made a video to help other people keep their sanity. Drop me the sub if it helps and thanks for watching and supporting the channel!

[@timothylamb1980]

Just got a 14 st3 from carvana the previous owner had a tune on it but took the cobb ap and now it throws the overboost code p0234 it has roush exhaust green filter and seems stock from wat I see bov but still makes the ppsshhh noise and he did a really bad synopses delete all he did was take the hose off and left everything in it any tips to fix it and have it running good

[@gapperformance]

www.focusst.org/threads/p0234-code.158589/ Start with this forum post as a way to see boost hose running from the solenoid up top - all the way to the bov. If that hose is torn from a bad zip tie it’ll leak and give you a code, or loose on the top or bottom. The SYMPOSER delete itself is usually just a plug or cap that goes in where that massive box and line system was, but lots of KZbin videos show how to properly do that. I would make sure it doesn’t have an aftermarket waste gage actuator. If it does have a turbosmart and you aren’t tuned you’re in danger land because that code truly means you’re overboosting. Start with hoses and leak tests for those vacuum lines and then try to sneak a pic of the waste gate actuator and see if it’s stock (stock metal looking) or turbosmart (black and silver).

[@timothylamb1980]

Ya it’s metal looking I seen all the vidoe I could before getting the car so I’ll check hoses but the good news is carvana will pay for it so I’m going to a shop after work today and see if they find out and get it fixed then I’m getting a cobb ap ASAP

[@timothylamb1980]

The supposer box connected to the intake is still there he took the hose off and never blocked it off so it’s still there and freely open

[@gapperformance]

@@timothylamb1980 that’s great news! I’d pick up a used Accessport for $350 that is “unmarried” from the car if you want to save some dough. Make sure you get a custom tune for another $250 it’ll be much safer and run better specific to your car. Plus tuners can find weird problems in your data logs. See my how to e-tune videos on my channel. Also drop me a sub to support the channel! Thanks for watching and let me know how it goes!

[@timothylamb1980]

Thanks for the help I’ll let you when I get it fixed and running good

[@Bloodreign137]

After seeing all these videos I’m beginning to think my “stock” st3 that I just got must have an upgraded bov because it vents constantly. I’m not complaining since I’ve always wanted that turbo noise but it’s good to know there’s an option if I eve get tired of it

[@gapperformance]

It makes it much more tolerable. I didn’t mind it for a couple days, but then on a Sunny day with my windows down I just couldn’t handle it haha. There are several ways of obtaining true boost, this one was the easiest. Just picked up another focus st so subscribe to see a ton more videos on how we fix it up :) thanks for watching!

[@tejas2546]

Do you need to plug the port that you pull the bov line from?

[@gapperformance]

tejas254 yes otherwise that sensor may get tripped up. Haven’t removed the plug to find out but they are super cheap at Napa so worth it to me

[@kevinweaver815]

Does this work with a upgraded by pass valve? I would assume just more turbo flutter ?

[@kevinweaver815]

Also very well done video helped a lot !

[@gapperformance]

You can use pretty much any upgraded bov, turbosmart, boomba, etc. The ecu works great with the stock bypass valve but once upgraded that constantly squeal is awful. Using true boost as a reference eliminates that issue and works amazing. Turbo flutter is predominantly bad as it is a result of compressor surge. If you want a little flutter you can upgrade your intake. With a bigger intake, adjusted bov, and a bigger Intercooler I get flutter at very low rpm let off which is perfect. If you floor it and let off it should be a air burst sound without flutter. Thanks for watching and glad I could help! Drop me that sub!

[@jessebudelman]

I might have to do this with my Boomba, all I get is flutter. Hahs

[@gapperformance]

Jesse Budelman at first I liked it, then drove on the highway for an hour and went crazy lol. Had to forum dig to find a solution but it works fantastic

[@joselimon5443]

Same about to do this today can't even floor with without it out off like 5 times

[@brandonmarks6035]

its ok to run it without the sound symp right i have a warranty and there being anal about stuff

[@tjlockett9968]

If you decide to block off the symposer for the vacuum, will it cause any issues with car? I have a 2015 Ford Fusion 2.0, same motor. But different symposer kit through Boomba. Tried to do this same setup but realized the block off tap is different.

[@UGFluffyTurtle]

Nah, The symposer can actually be a detriment to the car since its another vacuum source plugged directly to the intake manifold. I forget where, but someone explained it well. If you still wanna keep your symposer, then get a throttle body spacer with vacuum ports and just route the true vacuum from there. Kinda pointless to reply to a two year old comment, but ay, hope you still got your ST. The first thing I did with mine was rip out the symposer.

[@paulattree4171]

About to do mine. Late to the party

[@gapperformance]

@paulattree4171 better late than never! Please hit me with the sub and feel free to shoot any questions over. Good luck!

[@antonwright1300]

Any power gains from this? This is just to get more flutter and less venting?

[@gapperformance]

No I didn’t necessarily get more flutter, just less random venting and a more consistent feel of boost holding. The highway whistle was driving me insane which was the true inspiration for doing this. I couldn’t find any good KZbin videos so after forum digging I decided to make one. Thanks for watching and please sub if it helps you out!

[@spacecalander]

Is that the boost control solenoid on the top there, That you referred to boos reference ?

[@gapperformance]

I can’t remember the exact nomenclature but that sounds correct haha. I’m working on a focus st motor swap and forgetting part names like crazy. I keep calling a flex plate a transducer for no good reason at all haha.

[@spacecalander]

@@gapperformance No no this was the best video i have seen on this. I have cobb tuner on stage 2, and it was like a rocket for a couple months then i noticed boost gauge was not pegging anymore and power basically felt stock, i tried changing cobb back to stock then back to tune and no dice. If eliminate the control valve like you did i will be happy. Just ordered another symposer delete cause i got mine with no fitting. In California i will have to remove hose each visit to smog station, but yeah great information here thanks!

[@spacecalander]

@@gapperformance Also some say there is one mounted near turbo for redundancy? Hard to tell which one would be bad.

[@gapperformance]

@@spacecalander yes it’s on the back side under the turbo. It links reference to your stock bov, waste gate, and turbo intake. It’s really hard to get to so must tap off the top one. Glad I could help and please subscribe!

[@spacecalander]

@@gapperformance I have the single port turbo smart, does that mean i should have disconnected the one below? And which one would be most likely to cause my boost cut?, I guess i can start with the easy one up top first or?

[@osopanda4601]

Did you use a pressurized fuel line?

[@gapperformance]

Osiel Olivares yup works just dandy. Pretty cheap at any auto parts store for a roll of it.

[@Ogmatty97]

Can I do this the a 2015? New to ford

[@gapperformance]

Yes it should work on any of the 2013-2019 focus ST! Thanks for watching and please subscribe :)

[@ransb95]

Hey I just did this mod, I got a CEL the code is CO7488, I can’t seem to find out what it is though.

[@gapperformance]

Randall Bufkin hey I’ve looked all over forums and it seems to come down to an electrical issue. Check everything you may have touched throughout the mod for starters. I’ll keep checking in the meantime. Thanks for watching!

[@ransb95]

Casual Car Talk Thanks, I’ll check again. I also installed a Cobb CAI at the same time.

[@gapperformance]

Randall Bufkin I typically use dialectic grease and QD electric cleaner on all connections because the Minnesota salt destroys everything. Helps mitigate connection issues. Also if it persists give it a clear and see if it returns. Sometimes new mods like to scare the computer into a super temporary code

[@dham99]

@@gapperformance Also, its harder to ts engine codes if you do multiple mods at once. Your intake has connections too...you might have left something off. The BOV really shouldnt trip anything.. Id toss the factory intake back on, clear the codes, and see if they return. Put the aftermarket back on, see if any lights pop up. BUt like he said, it can be a quick scare to the ECU that eventually just need to be cleared and never show up again.

[@dham99]

A "C" code typically indicates 'Chassis'. 2nd digit, 0 vs 1 indicates 'Standard' vs 'Manufacturer specific'. Your code is related to 'all manufacturers' vs a 'Ford' thing most likely. 3rd digit in your case, "7" might be 'transmission'. You may have something else going on. There's a P0748 code you can get, but there are very few results for your specific code. Retrace your installs...one connection at a time.

[@sur3tv]

what did you use to clean the bov and its components?

[@gapperformance]

ahac I soaked the spring in some brakleen. And then gently wiped down the metal components (to not rub the paint off). Once complete I used just a little bit of Jack oil to lubricate it. (Found jack oil as a resource on a turbo smart guide). Let me know if you have any other questions :)

[@sur3tv]

@@gapperformance whats the best setting to have it on for softer and harder , i live in california if that matters.

[@gapperformance]

ahac I have found that screwing it all the way tight and backing it off two full turns seems to be perfect in summers in MN. I clean it every spring to make sure it isn’t binding from the cold or salt. You can do some local group asks and forum digging, but the only unanimous setting I hear is the two turns back - like the video shows.

[@jair2776]

Where did you get that lip protector?

[@gapperformance]

Jair the red lip?

[@jair2776]

Yea, looks like there is a cover or something on it lol

[@gapperformance]

Jair it’s just a splitter - I painted the lip of it red

[@jair2776]

@@gapperformance nice, i like it. Ice chunks broke my Maxton lip :(

[@gapperformance]

Jair yeah Minnesota definitely doesn’t play nice. If I do anymore splitters I’ll be doing something super strong. That red one disintegrated going 110 on the track

[@subparsurfer2860]

I’m running stage 2 with 20 psi but recently I’ve been getting like 18 pounds of boost with a whistle sound at low boost. Serviced my turbo smart bov recently and it was in pretty bad condition. I was wondering what I should do?

[@gapperformance]

If it’s cleaned well it should be okay, but rust can definitely make them operate improperly. My guess is you have a boost leak somewhere. I have a video on my channel showing how to do a boost leak test on a fiat Abarth, but you can use the same method on these cars as well.

[@subparsurfer2860]

@@gapperformance Thanks for the advice.

[@tommyodayiv9734]

Take tip tie off the plastic cap lmao

[@gapperformance]

I like the way it looks with it on, zip ties increase horsepower

[@rbergman74]

It's not fake noise. It's coming from the engine its 100% real noise just has a valve. And why did you keep the zip tie on the block off plate for the cabin hole? That's for your sensor. Hard watching some of these tutorials.

[@gapperformance]

COD 101 it’s piped in noise to the cabin which is to simulate engine noise by design so you are correct it is real but also fake because no car should need synthetic nor piped in sound added. The zip tie was me being in a rush which my buddy immediately pointed out. I made the tutorial because I couldn’t find any others and we all make mistakes. Thanks for watching, definitely didn’t mean to make watching this hard for you? Why were you checking out the video just to be curious?

[@rbergman74]

I just needed to know what size fuel/ vacuum line I need for the bov. And what length and shit

[@gapperformance]

COD 101 I can go take a look for you if you need, lemme know. Just trying to help people in an angry call of duty hating world haha.

[@rbergman74]

I think I can get most of the info I need from the video thanks man

[@gapperformance]

COD 101 no problem, glad I could help.

[@ryanharris6788]

How much boost was it making prior, I just got one and it’s stuck at 15 lbs, any suggestions?

[@gapperformance]

Ryan Harris typically if your boost is limited it could be ecu controlled (check Accessport if possible) also the stick dash gauges on these are notoriously unreliable and running a boost gauge using the boost reference from this video to a gauge should give a more accurate reading. Step 1 make sure you’re reading is accurate, step 2 check vacuum lines, step 3 inspect turbo, step 4 ehhh check back with me after that lol. If you’re tuned send a log to your tuner and ask.