How to fix BMW 335i N54's Limp Mode in ~7 minutes

Faulty BMW VANOS solenoids are a common source of check engine lights and limp mode (Engine Malfunction - Half Engine Light). The two most common codes you will see when this solenoid is operating erratically is 2A87 and 2A82. Usually, restarting your BMW can make the code or problem go away temporarily but it is likely for the problems to come back again.
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Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Charles Gonzales, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Charles Gonzales assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Charles Gonzales recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Charles Gonzales, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Charles Gonzales.
BMW 335i N54 throws limp mode. E92 anti lag half engine light. N54 engine misfires DIY. Bimmergeeks KDCAN cable with MHD Tuning and codes. OTF Stage 1 stage 1+ stage 2 stage 2+ burble backfires. VSRF FBO Full bolt ons. Engine Malfunction.
#n54 #bmw #guide

[@camposjesus3725]

You don't have to take off the engine cover btw

[@Fungustus1]

Oh bet, work smarter not harder 🥸

[@camposjesus3725]

@@Fungustus1 in the time it took you to remove the cowling and the engine cover, i finished the job already 🥸

[@Fungustus1]

@@camposjesus3725 cool story bro. Want a cookie? 🤡🤡

[@camposjesus3725]

@@Fungustus1 Na you can keep that mf, just callin out how you added extra steps for no reason 🤡

[@Fungustus1]

@@camposjesus3725 aight bro, good lookin out

[@jordyne.1398]

Had the same issue, to save you a bunch of money go buy some break cleaner, take the vanos solenoids out, spray em and clean em. put them back in the way they were. worked perfectly for me and haven’t had any issues. (heard you talk about people cleaning them in the video after i typed this out 🤣) for anyone who didn’t watch the video all the way through like me!

[@Fungustus1]

For sure! Definitely will save a lot of money doing this method. I saw a video and they jumped the connection to make them open to get a more thorough clean, I'd try that too if you're electronically inclined.

[@RedPillAwake]

When you presented the tools needed I burst out in laughter because I thought this was going to be a way to electronically clear it.❤😂

[@mgonzales12015]

you guys are to wholesome at the end

[@davidsibilly-rg3tj]

Amazing video keep up the good work brother was super helpful 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@khawin]

Can you make a day in the life? Very informative video, thank you!

[@Fungustus1]

Yeeee. Sounds like a fun video! Ty bro 🙏

[@jonimaanwadu8327]

Mine was the turbo actuator in the back. Turus out it was the actuator arm that flew a c-clip off. 2eur fix and works like a charm now.

[@Fungustus1]

Niceeee, when I get turbo issues I'll check out wastegate actuator arms when they start acting up. Did your engine/turbos ever make this "howl" noise when boosting? Once oil is at operating temp it goes away. mods r MHD stage 1 tune + dci.

[@jonimaanwadu8327]

@@Fungustus1 Before fixing could not notice or cant remember.. Now it makes normal turbo sounds. Not sure do you mean a high pitch howl when giving revs or what?

[@jonimaanwadu8327]

@@Fungustus1 But the wastegate actuator arms are usually at fault with these cars when they get more miles in. Inside the wastegate pipe that the actuator controls it usually gets stuck with soot and other crap so it could also be jammed. Best fix is to change the turbos since the c clip fix for me is temporary.

[@jcbeast_135i]

whas that a P13BA code by any chance?

[@jonimaanwadu8327]

@@jcbeast_135i Unofortunately i did not get codes. No fault lights were present but it is pretty easy to check if it is at fault. At N47 Diesel it is on the left side of the engine.

[@patricks.9036]

Hell yeah! About to fix mines Bro!

[@Fungustus1]

Let's go! I'm hoping this solved your limp mode troubles.

[@advantage8909]

Did the limbo go away by itself once you fixed it or did you have to clear the code?

[@Osamabeenleanin210]

Appreciate you my guy!!

[@Fungustus1]

Thanks man! Appreciate you bro!

[@emmanuelechevarria4355]

I think that's my problem with my car right now. It's in the shop right now. Dos bell cost me 600 bucks for 2 of them.😢. Too much money.

[@jjung2005]

My fan comes off & on continuously and eventually will show overheat around 200F and becomes limp mode. The car only has 33k original miles. Any ideas?

[@isthtdon]

saved me time thank youuu

[@anma8658]

Would the vanos sensor the only reason it will cause limp dic ? Mt car was doing the same then hpfp went out

[@Fungustus1]

Vanos is not the only reason, just one of the easier ones to solve. Boost leak can trigger limp mode and tired turbos / wastegates too. Oil getting too hot, etc.

[@mustangmustang8534]

I have the same problem when it goes to limp mode it gives me HPFP the code and i changed that but still the same problem i will try to change my vanos sensor if you have any suggestions for me please reply to me 🙏🏻🙏🏻😢😢

[@YoloSwaggins]

Hey bro I have a 2013 x1 I was driving it and all sudden it pop into N lost all power now it won’t start it makes a click noise that’s it any advice ?

[@emmanuelechevarria4355]

That's the same problem I got with mice. Isn't the shop right now? That cost me $600 for 2 of those babies... Hopefully, it will cost me $1300 when I get done... Mechanics are very expensive too, and that's my budget.

[@yasienmohamed3860]

I changed my selonoids but it still goes into limp mode

[@dhalsim-1]

There's 1,000 different reasons for limp mode

[@Fungustus1]

Bummer... and dhalsim is correct. Good luck bro

[@Just_e36]

Are you having issue sluggish from first to second gear before you change your vanos?

[@Fungustus1]

Can't remember entirely, but I do remember a hesitation / sluggish performance at low rpms regardless of gear. Like there'd be no power and then sudden power, like over exaggerated boost lag but pre-boost felt like driving my old lancer lmao

[@ISTVAN1127]

I wonder what happened between 76,377 and 66,576 miles. Its a miracle.

[@Fungustus1]

The bimmer gods granted me 10k miles of reliability. Then straight back to CEL hell 😅

[@aqwmasterz12]

Are you still active bro? What was the caused of your misfire 456

[@Fungustus1]

It was outdated injectors, I previously had a mix of index 7 and 9's. Bit the bullet and purchased a set of new Index 12 injectors (~$1200 at the time RIP!) Installed them myself and coded with bimmergeeks protool + kdcan cable, no more misfires! I would suggest scouting your local pick n pulls, might get lucky and get a set of healthy injectors.

[@aqwmasterz12]

Appreciate it. Im on index 1 lol. Index 12 looking steep right now. But bought some eldors coil hopefully its those not pushing enough power to the spark plugs

[@Fungustus1]

@@aqwmasterz12 Extra info just in case you didn't know, but I knew injectors were the culprit when I inspected my spark plugs and they were soaked in fuel after sitting overnight. At the time I was theorizing some of my injectors were stuck open and causing misfires + long crank conditions on cold starts.

[@aqwmasterz12]

@@Fungustus1 put on new coils and still misfiring 456. Unplugging coils from those cylinders don’t seem to make a difference, Coils and Plugs new however plug seems dirty and black after sitting overnight. Im stuck right now lol.

[@Fungustus1]

@@aqwmasterz12 yeah bro I feel you, did you smell fuel on the the plugs? Chasing misfires definitely sucks sorry bro... plugs and coils checked so... ima just list things you can try. Spark plug gap, injectors, HPFP and LPFP, Carbon buildup, VANOS Solenoids are some of the less expensive things to inspect. Worst case scenario is you have MSD80 ECU and needs MSD81. Oh yeah and maybe O2 sensors too.

[@123Vgj]

What radar u use ?

[@Fungustus1]

I got the cheapest speed radar from local best buy. ~$100. Brand is "Passport"? Paid itself off 5x times, especially with those stupid red light cameras that oregon has.

[@williebean608]

❤️👍🏽I need help with my engine malfunction

[@Fungustus1]

Late reply, glad I could help. If you need more assistance, feel free to PM me or reply to this comment!

[@michaelsmith3017]

I have similar issue but I have p0015 code…

[@Fungustus1]

That sounds like a generic BT scan tool code. You can get a more specific BMW DME code with MHD or Protool with a bimmergeeks KDCAN adapter. What year is your 335i? I heard early build models have issues with early wear on cam bearing ledges causing Vanos codes. Sorry broski wish I knew more about our platform to help...

[@michaelsmith3017]

@@Fungustus1 no worries mate thanks for answer , it’s 2006 model , I cleaned the bottom solenoid and i didn’t get this code again even when I push it hard . I think it’s okay now

[@tylerwiegel7997]

Replaced mine and it still is in limp mode

[@Fungustus1]

Sorry to hear that bro. Genuine BMW VANOS or aftermarket? VehicularDIYs video has people commenting that aftermarket options are a hit or miss... Best of luck!

[@dhalsim-1]

Did it show a fault code for vanos on diagnosis?

[@tntfragz1945]

I got this after accelerating way too hard in manual mode went back home turned of the car and turned it back on and the code hasnt come back since (ive pushed it to try)

[@Fungustus1]

Here's my personal experience. At first, limp mode would trigger randomly, after pulls, while idling, during normal driving at least once a week. Restart the engine and all is fine... Months later it started getting worse, limp mode coming up every drive, even small 10 minute commutes, restart engine and would limp would trigger in the same drive! That's what signaled me to research and find this solution. Try cleaning your VANOS Solenoids, see if that stops limp mode from triggering. There are videos here on YT showing how. Good luck!

[@tntfragz1945]

@@Fungustus1 Thank youu soo much

[@jcbeast_135i]

@@Fungustus1Bruh literally my experience… & now after a year of on and off not so often my limp mode and check engine service wont go away, cleaned the vanoss finally today & just orderded a new one ( b4 that I thought it was the Camshaft sensors ( replaced both )

[@jcbeast_135i]

@@Fungustus1After I cleaned the exhaust one today both codes were gone for 2 min then came back,

[@cold_e9086]

10k miles later

[@Fungustus1]

10k miles later water pump dies and radiator cracks at the plastic seam for the second time. ~90k miles bruh.

[@skullviet]

damn you lookin like a hot korean boi with beamer.

[@Fungustus1]

Lmaooo gassin me up 😅😉

[@europacc6701]

99.9 mpg🤭

[@YoloSwaggins]

Hey bro I have a 2013 x1 I was driving it and all sudden it pop into N lost all power now it won’t start it makes a click noise that’s it any advice ?

[@a_armadillo]

if its an audible pop try inspecting your charge pipe, common issue on n54 n55, you probably already took the car in to get it fixed but if not it might be worth a look. I replaced my charge pipe myself on my e90 n55 for an aftermarket one and it took only like an hour and 130 bucks