How To Fix GE Microwave Oven (Phillips Vision: Episode - 30)

[@jferrella1]

I'm nearing 86 years old, so I got my handyman neighbor over to follow your video instruction. He quickly found the little tube fuse blown. I went to Lowe's and got a package of two for less than $3.00. He put it in and everything worked. HOWEVER, when we turned it on to heat a bottle for a grandchild, the unit went dead again. I noticed a comment in here about clicking a stuck door switch being a fix, so I tackled the fix myself. Replaced fuse. Clicked door switch. Proceeded to heat water for 3 minutes. Fixed (for now). Next breakdown I know what to do to get it going again! Thanks, young feller!

[@PhillipsVision]

Ferrell Asbell you’re welcome, glad it helped👍

[@josephgonzalez5038]

Great video and explanation of the thermal fuses

[@MG-fk4se]

Watch a lot of repair type videos on KZbin, regardless of whether or not this is the culprit of my issue, your instructional video is definitely one of the better ones. Detailed, easy to follow, straight to the point. Thanks.

[@PhillipsVision]

@@MG-fk4se Thanks for the feedback. 👍

[@lnajjar77]

You are a freakin' genius! I was in the process of selling my home and as soon as I put it up for sale my microweave stopped working. I was infuriated at the costs of shelling out over $800 for a new microwave that the new owner would enjoy. Instead I searched online and found your video on YT. Thank you so much! The switch cost me $6.65 on Amazon, I had it overnighted through my Primiae account and installed it in less than 15 minutes. I was microwaving popcorn a moment after that. I cannot than you enough!!!! God Bless You Sir!

[@PhillipsVision]

Awesome, glad it helped

[@williamburns4160]

This was a HUGE help! Thank you!!! You saved me $400! I made a hasty decision and ran right out and purchased a new microwave. I was frustrated as the microwave was only 4.5 yrs old. I came home, watched the video, found the bad thermo fuse, ordered it and put it in. Easy. THANK YOU!

[@PhillipsVision]

William Burns glad it helped

[@shawnsh]

Where did you order if from please?

[@georgecatania4099]

Thanks, bro! To the point, very clear, no wasted time and no stupid music. Appreciated!

[@jbfontes1331]

Thank You!!!! It worked! I told my husband to watch your video and it worked! Didn't have to buy a new microwave! Happy wife, happy life!🥰

[@PhillipsVision]

Awesome, glad it helped

[@tmise50]

Mine is about the same model as this one. Was tripping breaker at startup. Turns out the middle switch button was stuck, now it’s working fine for zero cost. Initially we called a repair company that couldn’t be out for a week and charge would be $110 just to come out, not including repair cost. Nice feeling to save $$$$, especially these days! Thank you for the video!

[@ellexusse]

You saved me prob $400 of repairs. I went to Home Depot and got a multimeter and then ordered the thermal fuse. It’s the EXACT same issue and the exact same fuse! Thank you so much for this tutorial!

[@shawnsh]

Hi -- Where did you order the thermal fuse from please? Any model / part #?... thank you so much.

[@southtexasprepper6605]

Very informative video, I'm a maintenance tech at an apartment complex and all the units have microwaves, i have a couple of pending tickets that concern microwaves and this vid really helps

[@jeffdanger12]

Great video on this most common problem. In my case, the switch holder was slightly moving and making one switch break contact if you gently pulled on the door, blowing the fuse since the other two switches were still made. If you notice on the switch holder piece, there is a place for a third screw by the lower switch. I added a screw here and it took out the excess play and now works as intended. It sure looks like it was made for a third screw as the case has the hole also, GE just cut corners and left it out.

[@basha6376]

I think I am having the same problem. What do you mean by "place for a third screw"?. I don't see any screws. Help appreciated thank you

[@tmise50]

After watching your video I checked it out and the middle door switch button was stuck, causing the breaker to trip at startup. Thanks for your video, figure I saved at least $200 for repair service!

[@sweetmemories4448]

In the video, the left thermal fuse beeped when tested at room temp, indicating that it is a NC (normally closed) thermal fuse, and is ‘Good’. The right thermal fuse did not beep at room temp during continuity test. The video is a great one and very useful one.

[@PhillipsVision]

Sweet Memories the fuse MUST be heated to 150 in order to read continuity. I failed to show that in the vid but mention it in my notes. Hope this helps

[@bobelder6794]

Are you saying the one you changed should be NO at room temp?

[@negocios0rsk]

Phillips Vision, Thank you ! My JVM3160 stopped abruptly when I opened the door to stop a heat up. And, the 20 amp main fuse shattered... broken glass! The door opening event was a clue to replace all three door interlock micro switches. They're so cheap I didn't bother to figure which one faulted. All that cost about $21 Amazon... much cheaper had I the patience to go to a hardware store for parts. Your video taught me how to easily open up the unit... BIG HELP.

[@caelidhg6261]

so you opened the door rather than pressing the stop button? and then opening the door?

[@negocios0rsk]

@@caelidhg6261 Yes. I’ve always just opened the door to stop microwaves. I guess I’m using the interlock as a stop button. I did replace all three door switches. But the problem recurred. I really believe that the root cause is that the microwave door deformed over time and that one of the switches would not make (or, unmake) when the door opened. That is… a bit of door sag or melt over time. I eventually replaced the unit with a similar model. I noticed the new model had a stronger door and lower temperature setting on the fan switch. Kinda’ the manufacturer admitting the problem. Sorry for long-winded answer, Carlidh!

[@caelidhg6261]

that is what happened with us. I opened the microwave in the middle of the heating ... without turning it off first (how many of us do that????) lOL

[@caelidhg6261]

@@negocios0rsk yeah, we had it serviced last year for that problem. Sigh.. seems to be a bad model.

[@jimmyers7124]

Never as easy as it looks but absolutely worked and saved me $hundreds. It was a failed micro switch that cost under $3.00 to replace (and I never heard of a micro switch before this video). Nicely done Mr. Phillips.

[@PhillipsVision]

Jim Myers thanks for the feedback, glad it helped👍

[@letsgophx]

Finally my microwave is working as expected. This video is very helpful to understand how to open the microwave and disassemble the parts and where and what to test. Thanks @PhilipVision for that info. However @OGThinkster guided me how to test correctly especially the Thermalfuse(which initially I thought was bad) and the microswitches. One should understand how these microswitches work. And finally the fuse part which is blown due to the bad parts. It is a great when you fix something in just $11 and save a $145 on buying a new microwave but the feeling to fix on your own is irreplaceable .. Thx all the community for your comments and inputs.

[@letsgophx]

Hi Again, unfortunately I have the same issue again i.e no power. All Micro-switches are working fine I.e. reading the right continuity when door is closed vs Open but the main fuse keep blowing after using microwave for 3-4 times. Initially I thought it was incorrect fuse type so I ordered the same as mentioned by GE which is 20A 125V. But that fuse also gone bad after a day or two. Can someone please guide what should I check now? Why the fuse is keep blowing? Pls note The left thermal fuse has continuity and right does not which I assume is correct based on comments by other folks. Any help is appreciated.

[@georgebennett785]

Great Video Andrew, I was able to disassemble and remove the upper of three Micro NC switches that was not working. I flooded interior of micro switch with Denatured alcohol, lightly air blew and returned it to working order. reassembled after degreasing everything. Works great, Thanks.

[@mikescott66]

A quick follow-up to my comment about four months ago. So, I had a micro switch that was sticking and I was able to buy some time by simply pressing it through the lower door latch to release it. But, eventually it started tripping the circuit breaker so often that I decided to replace it. I found a pack of three switches on Amazon for $9.90 (KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc(Normally Open & Normally Close) (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Close)) and replaced all three of them today. Now, I have a working microwave again! Oh, and I tested the thermal fuse by heating it up with a hair dryer for about 20 seconds and it worked too. Thanks for the video and the tips! I probably would've bought a new microwave instead repairing it for under ten bucks.

[@craighatten7373]

Is your microwave a GE JVM 3160? I would like to buy that three pack of switches on Amazon, Thank you

[@mikescott66]

@@craighatten7373 Yes, that's the one...and I wish I never bought it. But, you can buy the switches at smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZFNPZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@craighatten7373]

@@mikescott66 yes unit is way too young to be having so many problems, thank you for your quick response to confirm model! I will order these switches tonight!

[@billwells5211]

Thanks for a video that was really thorough in diagnosing and repairing this microwave. Two things were different in my DIY was that the fuse was blown and there was another screw at the bottom of the control panel that I had to remove so I could slide the control panel up and off. I really liked that you showed us how to test the thermal fuses and the door switches. I replaced the fuse and the middle door switch. The hardest time I had was to swing out panel with the microswitches because I have catchers mitts for hands.

[@tomnekuda3818]

Andrew - Thanks for the really great upload....I just repaired my JVM3160RF2SS....just one number off. On my oven the top microswitch is a closed switch(in other words has continuity)....perhaps yours is different. In testing my thermal switches.....the far right as you face the oven tested open. Investigating, I found that it needed to be heated to 150 degrees to close the circuit. You were a life-saver and money saver for us. Many thanks and God Bless, Tom

[@PhillipsVision]

Tom Nekuda thanks for the comment👍

[@alainrodriguez3693]

great video, spend a fortune in fuses for almost a year, sometimes had to install new fuses 5 times a day , finally found this video, thermal fuse in my oven was bad ,switches were good, thanks

[@dwiggins194]

Brilliant. Helped me diagnose a blown fuse and working switches. Thanks for your diligence to post this.

[@tbtucker12]

You saved my bacon. My family will think I’m a hero. Thank you so much for this clear-cut and easy to follow video.

[@PhillipsVision]

Glad it helped 👍

[@hmedina79]

This fix didn't work for my GE. I tested the thermal fuse on the right for continuity. Here's the deal though. The one on the right is open. It only closes at a certain temperature. I watched the video, ordered the fuse (20 bucks), tested it to realize that testing that fuse for continuity was not helpful. In this video, above the opening for the control panel, you see a grate that can easily be removed. Behind that you'll see a fuse. This one is about a buck and you can buy it at home depot. It's a 20 amp 1/4 by 1-1/4 fuse. I would try that first.

[@keithbailie3014]

yah I think i just realized the same thing. I tested the one on the right in my microwave for continuity and assumed it was bad then I read a similar comment that it only closes when it reaches a certain temperature. But if that's the case, then why did the new fuse test for continuity in this video but the old one did not? I also think that thermal fuse on the right is for the hood fan and nothing to do with the microwave itself. I could be wrong though...

[@RainyDayForge]

@@keithbailie3014 I read that it was for the fan motor somewhere too.

[@sapper72783]

Well I just learned a valuable lesson by not reading the comments before ordering.

[@albor06]

Thank you for this Comment!!! I had exactly the same thing. Hte little fuse behind the grill was all charred black. And I only saw it after reading your comment.

[@jjafet2000]

​@@albor06 are you talking about the big 20 amp fuse??

[@hey-ey6bl]

This video is the best. Other videos don't mention the screwdrivers, but you do! Thank you sir!

[@sbatstg]

Great video. Thanks. The comment about how to test the thermal fuse was of great help. In my case the use was blown when opening the door while the microwave oven was in operation. changed it and it is working like a charm. keep up the good work sir.

[@PhillipsVision]

Sergio Botero thanks 👍

[@blaster-zy7xx]

My display worked but didn't cook. It was the safety switches, but a misalignment, not a switch failure. I figured it out by pulling slightly on the door and it started working. I just added a small pad used in the bottom of a chair leg to slightly prop the door out when closed and that fixed it. Thanks for your overview and look-see inside to prompt me to look at the safety interlock switched first.

[@CharliePyles]

This was very helpful for me. I tested the switches on the door and continuity was there so tested the only thermal fuse I saw and it also had continui. ty. Now after looking at the schematic, I see another thermal fuse and a 20 Amp fuse. Now I have to figure out the location for them. The oven comes on and runs including the turntable, lights,clock, etc. It just doesn't heat even though power level on the display shows 10 which is the highest setting. I think the other Tcu and slo blo my be on top with the capacitor.

[@beaumontmuni4294]

Excellent! This helped me. My thermal fuse was burned and didn't realize I needed to check the micro-switches too. Thanks for the help.

[@jefff9219]

6/24 21 Thanks so much for carefully visble features on the video. Finally our GE microwave is working again. Praise the Lord! He helped me too.

[@alexm458]

This was a great video...I'm glad I saw the part in the description that you added stating to heat up the thermal fuse. Looks like mine is just dead in the water. Thanks for posting this video!

[@kohler62]

I have the same microwave oven and learned from the documentation that came with the oven that the right hand “thermal fuse” is actually a thermostat whose contacts close at 158 F. The contact is supposed to be open.

[@burrowsforge3538]

So does this mean that you shouldn’t get a continuity beep if it’s working correctly? His new one beeps so I’m confused

[@brianburns9287]

@@burrowsforge3538 Maybe I am not understanding what should be happening here either, but I heated the thermostat to 170F and it still doesn't work. I am not fully confident in the video in part because the microwave is not powered up and working at the end. I see that others are getting units to work based on the video when they have door switch problems so I'll try that too.

[@brianburns9287]

Searched for that thermostat online, and I have found people in comments on Amazon who say that this video is wrong about the thermostat (or what he calls a "thermal fuse") and they bought that part for $30 plus dollars and waited months for delivery only to have that not be the problem. I have pulled out the door switches and will order a new set on Amazon for cheap. Also, I have little confidence that this video is right about which door switches should be open and which should be closed when the switches are removed, so I will double check that somewhere else as well. To be clear, I have the same model as in the video and when everything is working, the display on the control panel is lit up (and it is not at the end of the video). If you have this same model or another GE model, there is a small glass 20 amp fuse behind the metal grate on the upper right hand side of the unit (you can see it through the grate). The first thing I changed was that fuse (it was obviously blown--and the video doesn't mention it), which got my microwave working again, but when I opened the door before the unit stopped running, that fuse blew again. I felt that that probably meant one or more of the door switches are bad, but I started testing the two thermostats as shown in the video first (and before I saw the negative comments regarding this video on Amazon). The thermostat on the left in the video is called the "bottom thermostat" in the ge documentation and the one that he changed in the video on the right is called the "hood thermostat". The bottom thermostat (the one on the left) opens at 248F so getting a hot reading from the makes sense. Doug Larson is right that the hood thermostat on the right closes at 158F (which means there shouldn't be a reading from it at room temp), so I am taking for granted that either I don't understand what fan should be kicking on at 158F (I heard all of the usual fan noise when I changed the fused) or I need to change that thermostat too sometime down the road. I'll wait on that and work on the door switches first.

[@leonardoluchetti507]

@@brianburns9287 I think you are exactly correct. I was confused by these things in this video as well. The fuse that he replaces is a "thermo-switch" and is the Hood Thermal Cut-off Device. It is normally open and closes at high temps to give power to the fan, or hood. He mistakenly interprets the open reading as the problem. Then his replacement part confusingly reads closed at room temp, which it should not. Not sure what is going on here but thank you for thoroughly writing this out so I know I'm not the only one who sees a problem with this video.

[@johndehaas6152]

Yes - the fuse on the right is the 'FAN' thermostat. I replaced it as per this video only to discover that the replacement I was given was a problem as it had continuity. With electricity going through it the fan stayed on night and day. So - the video is wrong. That fan fuse should NOT have continuity unless the heat of the stove under it bends whatever is in there and creates contact, so turning the fan on automatically as a safety thing. FYI, inside that front panel you will also find a technical specification sheet folded tight and tucked inside a channel. It described this one thermostat under the fan notes, and gives the degrees of temperature at which it should close and make contact to activate the fan.

[@ryancaldwell6615]

Replacing the fuse worked for me. Thank you so much for this video, this saved me from buying a new microwave!

[@bradmarkell12167]

Was the panel working but not the actual microwave?????

[@roblee2544]

Is this for a microwave that's not heating things up, or is it for no power to the unit? Mine has no power at all. Checked the breaker and plug and all is fine. Could it be these issues? Btw, great video. Very informative either way. Thank you.

[@BethOsVideos]

Thanks so much!! I have a different model of GE oven but the layout is the same. Thanks for helping me find the"hidden screw" holding in the panel. Bad switch and bad thermostat.

[@PhillipsVision]

Glad it helped 👍

[@lonnieprice7745]

My same model was flipping the breaker every now and then when opening the door. Then it would open and close without the breaker flipping but would flip the breaker when turned on. I followed the direction in the video. The lower door latch has two switches on a pivot latch. one closes the circuit when the door is closed and the other closes the circuit when the door is opened. It a redundancy but it prevents the microwave from running if for some reason the upper and lower switches malfunction. That secondary open door switch was causing a short and the problem. The thermal fuses were OK and the upper/ lower door closed switches were OK. Back in business. Thanks

[@gregwein1]

Thanks so much much! As most folks have said, you are a god!! after all this time with your video app, hope that still makes you happy. It certainly made my day!

[@PhillipsVision]

@@gregwein1 Thank you, glad the video was helpful

[@randomdude3066]

Instead of removing the panel with all the micro switches, just leave them in and then physically close the microwave door. Then test your switches. Then open the door. Test the switches again. You can easily access the terminals without removing the switches. Of course if one of them is bad, you'll need to remove the panel.

[@herbquick2682]

I did the same thing. A heck of a lot easier! Great video though!

[@owenwalter8698]

you prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I would love any assistance you can give me.

[@adrienrudy8004]

@Owen Walter Instablaster =)

[@owenwalter8698]

@Adrien Rudy Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@owenwalter8698]

@Adrien Rudy It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thank you so much, you saved my account :D

[@caves51]

Correct that thermocouple on the right closes at temp increase, so if you test for continuity there will be none until the temp heats up turning on the fan 😉

[@bryansalerno6078]

Mine was turning on the fan every time I opened the door and then today it died after a power outage. Going to change the 20 amp fuse first tomorrow and then change that if it doesn't fix it.

[@bxdeputy]

Thanks for the video. Without it, I would not know how to disassemble the control panel. My issue was the glass fuse located under the grate behind the control panel, which was obviously blown and cracked. It's easy to replace, just like an older auto fuse but it's 20Amp 125Volts and the common ones in hardware stores apparently are 250 Volts. They might work fine but to get an original OEM fuse I had to order from Amazon who had them in stock.

[@jul3per]

Hi. I am having similar issues. The microwave is located in a rental property which is quite a drive for me. Any chance you might have the link from where you got your blown fuse? This would be great help. Thanks in advance.

[@garyssprinklerrepair]

Always nice to have a Pro show ya the ropes. Fellow Creator from Cali joined your Channel and gave it a like, watched Ad’s and whole video. Thank you for your advise👍

[@PhillipsVision]

Gary's Sprinkler Repair thanks for the support👍

[@j.d.burton5097]

4:45 The thermal fuse on the right is supposed to be normally open circuit at room temperature. It controls the vent fan. So when you measured it and got no “beep” on your multimeter, that actually means it’s good. It’s designed to close the circuit for the vent fan (turn on the fan) if it senses high temperature. I learned this the hard way: I watched this video and replaced it… with a normally closed circuit thermal cut off, and then the vent fan ran constantly. It was only when I put the old one back it did I realize the mistake. The other thermal sensor is supposed to be a normally closed circuit, only breaking the circuit when it gets too hot (meaning it should keep power flowing to the microwave generator, but safely cutting power if it overheats.)

[@PhillipsVision]

I explained this in the description of the video since the video did not show it

[@j.d.burton5097]

You’re right, it doesn’t show it… instead it shows you measuring the room temp sensor in place and saying it definitely needs to be replaced followed by your measurement of a new sensor (the wrong one) showing a closed circuit condition at room temp. In retrospect I should have been suspicious when you didn’t show the microwave working after the repair, probably because you didn’t want to explain why the fan is running constantly. I’m not trying to be a jerk, but this is all very misleading. To be fair though, showing how to check the door switches was very informative as that, along with the blown supply fuse, was the only actual problem with my microwave.

[@rfwilkinson1248]

Great video! Totally boosted my confidence for fixing my own microwave. Thanks a lot👍

[@Nicoya48]

Where did you get thermal fuse? having a hard time finding it.

[@andrerosado2032]

Also just to add that I have the exact GE model JVM3160RF3SS looking for that KSD201 70 thermal fuse.

[@jenniferforster3493]

Where did you get the replacement parts that you needed? Were you able to to order them from a local hardware store or amazon?

[@PhillipsVision]

@@jenniferforster3493 I got them on Amazon but I don’t think they are available anymore. You may want to reach out to GE as well as

[@iallison8300]

great job explaining how to take the unit apart.

[@amealnet2495]

Does it have to be the exact thermal fuse replacement?

[@joeyzhouprinceton]

Hi, Phil, thank you very much for your video. I fixed my GE Microwave Oven following your steps. Truly appreciate it.

[@PhillipsVision]

Awesome, glad it helped

[@redgar6467]

does the thermostat/fuse have? I did not note which wire came off each end and am not sure if it matter. One wire has just and open spade connector and the has the connector enclosed in plastic. I thought it had no continuity but turned out my battery was wonky.

[@froggystyle8781]

Great Video, how do you tell if the thermo fuse is NO or NC?

[@carolgib2014]

Great video. We now know how to take our microwave apart and how the door switches work.

[@MF-pi4gz]

Thank you for this very clear video. I have the same unit & it did have a bad thermal fuse. I replaced it with one that tests good, at heat. The switches all test good and the door latches are not stuck. But the microwave is still tripping the breaker as soon as I turn it on. Tried it on another circuit, as well. Any ideas?

[@PhillipsVision]

M F sounds like you’re overloading the circuit. Do I have other things running at the time on the same circuit?

[@MF-pi4gz]

@@PhillipsVision No its a dedicated circuit & it worked for over 2 years on it.

[@PhillipsVision]

M F your interference suppressor might be bad, that can cause overload

[@MF-pi4gz]

thank you for the replies! I figured it out. the button on the middle switch on the door was stuck. this switch need to have continuity when the door is open and no continuity when the door is closed. continuity was stuck on.

[@skywackerjim]

If any of these switches or fuses are bad does the microwave not work at all? Mine turns on and the turntable rotates but it isn’t heating. That’s a different problem isn’t it? Anyway nicely done video and very informative. Will probably be handy in the future.

[@j0s33lamb0y]

I followed all the steps and I was able to fix my oven; however, the exhaust fan is on and won’t turn off. Any suggestions on how to fix this issue?

[@PhillipsVision]

@@j0s33lamb0y could be the sentinel thermostat

[@virgil5361]

This is a much better video than those creeps at the repair clinic puts out and then attempt to get you to put malware onto your computer.

[@midlander3760]

Thanks for the video. I have the JVM3160RF8SS (so newer rev of the same microwave). I only had it one year and one month and the second from the right display digit flickers lightly. I figure at some point I will have to replace the panel board so seeing how to get the panel off was very helpful. P.S. to everyone. My last GE last over 20 years. This POS already has this issue so I would stay away from GE. Thanks again.

[@itsaboutfam]

Great video..saved me some $$$. My model is a GE JVM3160DF4WW. My microwave was tripping my breaker the moment you started to cook something. Same thermal fuse on mine was faulty.

[@khansardarehtesham4341]

Hi The first thermal fuse (right one) you checked is suppose to be open there should be no continuity please clarify.

[@PhillipsVision]

I expound on that in the description. In the video I accidentally skipped that

[@ImBetty352]

I have a GE Over the Range Microwave, JVM3160DFWW. The display panel which shows the time is flickering. For example, if the time is 6:20, the "2" is flickering. Do you have any idea what could be causing this? Could we fix it or do we need a repairman? The house has been sold and the closing day is fast approaching so I need to get this fixed as soon as possible.

[@PhillipsVision]

The little digital display might need to be replaced, or the electrical connection might be loose.

[@earlynalexander8838]

Your Video was of great help to me. But what if the glass fuse is blown?

[@keitholwell]

Dude thank you. Clear and informative yet short. Bravo. I'mma go fix my microwave now.

[@artriumph]

If this thermostat fuse shows continuity when it is Not Heated does that mean it needs replacing ? Thank you.

[@myrymics]

This is a great video, thanks for the clear description. I changed the door switch and also the thermal fuse. But, when I put the microwave back after replacing them, the fan won’t turn off. What could cause that?

[@PhillipsVision]

Ramesh R the exhaust fan thermostat may need to be replaced

[@myrymics]

I found that the thermal switch I purchased was of a wrong part number. The correct one, KSD201 70 fixed the problem. Thanks Phillips Vision for helping me!

[@rohityeolekar5707]

Ramesh R I have the same issue. I purchased the thermal switch from repairclinic.com and the fan stays on .., can you please advise, from where did you order the KSD01 70 ???

[@myrymics]

Rohit Yeolekar, here is the link. www.ebay.com/itm/GE-Microwave-Thermostat-WB27X11213-/274463916314 I’ll check the part number at the bottom. It should match the one that you currently have.

[@PhillipsVision]

Rohit Yeolekar sounds like your exhaust fan thermostat has failed. I bought mine from Amazon

[@battle-techs]

Dude!!! This was a Microwave Master Class. Thank You!!!

[@PhillipsVision]

Bryant DORSEY thanks, I’m glad it helped 👍

[@sweetmemories4448]

Wonderful video with closeup shots. Great explanation. I learned a lot from your video as well as from viewers' comments. Thanks again.

[@FreedomWanderer-hk3hc]

i saw other places say one of the thermostat is NO - specifically the 40/56 - Is that correct or both Thermostat need to be NC? Also, do you know what 40/56 means? i couldn't find an equivalent to 40/56 wihtou understanding what it means. Thanks

[@TonyBlok-yp1jh]

Great video.... So I have the exact microwave. I did exact what you did and there was the same thermal fuse that was bad. I replaced it and still no power. Can anyone advise why and what should I do next? Thank you

[@PhillipsVision]

@@TonyBlok-yp1jh make sure you test the thermal fuse for continuity by heating it up with a hair dryer. I failed to show this in the video but explained it in the description

[@andrerosado2032]

Great Video! I have the same blown thermal fuse but having trouble finding the KSD201 70 replacement. Can you provide link?

[@PhillipsVision]

It’s a hard part to find. I found it on Amazon but that was over a year ago. Not sure if it’s available anymore. You may need to contact GE

[@jeffries8814]

Thanks, man! This was very helpful. I was able to diagnose which thermal fuse and microswitch was bad with your help.

[@jerryputnam2047]

I shorted out my microwave by trying to take out a stuck stove top light bulb with a pliers and without unpluging first. No lights, no panel... I opened it and took out the thermal fuses and they both were bad. If I replace these will it bring it back to life or do I need a new microwave?

[@garyroz7358]

Thank you but can you tell me where you got the thermal fuse

[@PhillipsVision]

Amazon, but it was a couple years ago and hard to find.

[@shawnsh]

Hi -- Where did you order the thermal fuse from please? Any model / part #?... thank you so much.

[@PhillipsVision]

I was only able to find it on Amazon, but that was a few yrs ago

[@dhruvtandon3796]

Hey was wondering where can we buy the parts for the fuse... G KSD201 70-0 Normally Closed Microwave Thermostat Thermal Fuse Safety

[@sanjayvideo01]

Unable to find Fuse KSD201 70. When I took out Fuse, I test using Multi Meter, it does not show any continuity. Does it mean it is blown or I have to heat it up to test it out. I see on Amazon KSD301 series but not KSD201 ? Any suggestions for replacement part

[@PhillipsVision]

The thermal fuse must be heated to approx 150 degrees in order to read continuity

[@sanjayvideo01]

​@@PhillipsVision Thanks. I did not read your description. It looks like my fuse was fine, to test fuse and take out fuse is hard part because of screw in back side. I know this model have issues with opening while microwave is in operation and 99.9% of time, we use only pause/cancel but sometimes it does happen and causes door switches to burn While I was waiting for new door latches to arrive, I have remove 3 door switches, took apart ( there is another video how to clean them up ) and clean then up fine sand paper and put back . It is not tripping any more.

[@Yamralko]

Thank you for your presentation. I've a GE Profile over the range microwave and when I tried to warm a cup of tea, the power went down. I put a new light fuse, then the lights come, but when I try to warm my tea, it went down again. So do you think this a thermal fuse issue or something else? Let me know please. Thanks again.

[@PhillipsVision]

Could be the interlock switch. Does it blow a fuse each time it goes down, or does it trip the breaker?

[@Yamralko]

@@PhillipsVision Thank you for your fast reply. Yes, it blows a fuse each time.

[@PhillipsVision]

@@Yamralko might be the interlock switch

[@MatthewCharlesHeulitt]

I changed my fuse and checked all the switches. Those things are not the problem. Is there anything else I can check as a next step?

[@Nicoya48]

@Phillipsvision would you know where I can the thermal fuse KDS20170

[@PhillipsVision]

Check Amazon

[@reyesbayona3815]

Hi I have the same microwave but I have a question where You can order the part the video it's asome thanks

[@PhillipsVision]

I got mine on Amazon a few years back. I believe they are not on there anymore.

[@JBrowninKC]

Thanks for the great video. I also have the GE #JVM3160RF3SS. Mine was less than three years old. It turned out to be a failure of the middle switch. I was a bit confused as to whether my top switch was broken or not, so i did replace that one also. I did take the right Thermal fuse out and heat it up with a hair dryer and then it showed continuity. So thanks to the comments from others here, I knew the thermal fuse was okay. I called GE and asked if they would send me these two switch parts free because the MV is not very old. They put me on hold for a bit and then said they would. The price would have been $40 and $26 respectively. I suppose these parts cost GE about $5 each. Anyway, it was a nice gesture of them to do. I received the parts a few days later and installed the two parts and now my microwave is working! : ) Thanks for the nice video... very helpful.

[@PhillipsVision]

JBrowninKC thanks for the feedback, glad it helped👍

[@victormaines8143]

What was your microwave doing exactly before the repair?

[@HamidIranmanesh-f7i]

Hi I have a ge microwave model number JVM1635SFC01 the thermal switch (KSD1 40/70) is blown. I have tried so many locations and I cannot find the exact part. Can you suggest a replacement?

[@mikescott66]

I happen to have the exact same microwave as the one shown in this video. After using it for the past couple years, it suddenly started tripping the circuit breaker in our outside breaker box upon pressing start. After watching many videos, including this one, I found out that there was an easy fix that didn't involve replacing any switches. It was merely that the switch on the lower door catch had become stuck, probably due to heat, moisture, grease, etc. After simply pressing on it with a screwdriver while the door was open (no need to remove the control panel at all), it became free (started clicking) and the microwave worked again! Hope this might help someone. ;)

[@PhillipsVision]

Mike Scott thanks for the input, greatly appreciated 👍

[@theboss45r]

The comment from Mike was my exact findings as well, stuck lower micro switch.

[@PhillipsVision]

Tom Robertson thx for the input👍

[@michaelhashaw2883]

Thanks. That was the problem with my microwave.

[@hemsharmap]

Mike Scott, thanks for your idea. It helped me a lot. I was almost about to order the thermal fuse (thermostat). I also saw the same info about it not showing continuity out of the box. Then I started reading comments and found your input. It saved my time and money. Thank you.

[@chrismoser3342]

Excellent video/ my Ge microwave the fan turns on when I open the door prob switches? Also where do you get parts

[@PhillipsVision]

I ordered mine online, that’s the best way to find all components...in my opinion

[@punchy7683]

I have a GE microwave tat has two thermal fuses like yours. One is bad I have checked all the other components they test good. Would that fuse keep it from heating if everything else tests good? It starts and runs but wont heat. I checked the magnatron, capacitor and the diode I checked the proper way with a 9 volt battery and a multimeter. are both the thermal fuses the same part numbers? thanks

[@ericschneider-nc3ov]

Where do you buy a new thermal fuse? You did not give that information in your video

[@PhillipsVision]

GE does not make it anymore. I found it on Amazon but the seller is not available anymore

[@lessieevans2455]

Thanks for the video. It got me past the basics to troubleshoot my GE. I have a GE JVM3160DFBB. It worked for a year then stopped. I found out the cause and replaced one of the thermo fuses, the one on the right. The microwaved worked for a month and the same fuse blew again. I replaced the fuse again. When I plugged the microwave in everything worked fine, except now the vent fan stays on with the door open and close. I can change the speed from high to low, but it will not shut off. I let it run for about 20 minutes, still on. I checked the 3 door switches and they have continuity and the buttons click just fine. The 2 thermo fuses have continuity. Please help. I cannot figure what else it could be. Thanks, Lessie. I also changed the 20a/250v fuse.

[@johncranck]

What is the part number?

[@venkypai9077]

Lessie - Were you able to figure out the cause of the vent fan staying on? I replaced the thermal fuse on the right, have the same issue with the vent fan staying on. Appreciate any insight!

[@simpleman9092]

@@venkypai9077 me too

[@boontang84]

Those 2 bottom switches, the grey and the black are switched on mine, does that make a difference?

[@MarkAntonowsky]

replacing a thermal fuse on a pvm9179sf1ss fe profile microwave. I took out the old thermal fuse but didn't mark which side got the red wire and which got the black.. how can I tell which is which?

[@cliffvalentine7370]

hi great video helpful will use it to repair my ge. i would have liked to see the meter reading on each switch check. your arm covered it. tnx agn.

[@EnfernoMuzik]

Great video. I have the exact same microwave and that thermal fuse should test open. It brings on the blower fan when it senses extreme heat.

[@carolgib2014]

It's really a 70 v thermostat and not a thermal fuse. It is normally open until the temperature gets above 150 degrees. F.

[@kataysmith9581]

Did you have to discharge the capacitor before you did all this??

[@PhillipsVision]

I did not, but keep in mind that it is strongly advised

[@dallast21]

Where do you find the Mirco fuse please?

[@PhillipsVision]

It was on Amazon but a couple years ago. Not sure if they still have it

[@karthikmohan1]

Can you please provide a link to thermal fuse? From Amazon or home Depot or Lowe's

[@PhillipsVision]

Last I checked it was not available. You may need to reach out to GE

[@karthikmohan1]

Thanks

[@nancyriccardi8428]

Can't find where to buy the capacitor/fuse. Any ideas? GE wants to only send a repairman out.

[@PhillipsVision]

I found one on Amazon but that was a few years ago.

[@petemcclelland4072]

This video literally saved me hundreds of dollars. Thanks so much!!!

[@PhillipsVision]

Pete McClelland glad it helped

[@grahamdougherty226]

Phillips vision I have a very similar unit GE JVM3160DF5WW that keeps blowing the right thermal fuse you had to change in this video. Why would it blow again two weeks after putting in a new fuse? Any ideas?

[@MrTeamzud]

Very well done video. Short and to the point.

[@PhillipsVision]

Team Zud Thanks

[@caelidhg6261]

So I have the model JVM316RF5SS model.. will the fuse number you listed work for that? Your microwave looks almost identical to ours...

[@PhillipsVision]

Not sure. You should research your model and cross reference that fuse to see if they are equivalent

[@elbis1987]

Thank you, great video. The way you explained it makes it so much easier 👍

[@PhillipsVision]

elbis aquino glad it helped, thanks for the feedback

[@sgtrpalma]

Outstanding work brother!!!

[@PhillipsVision]

Thank you 👍

[@CURVES4321]

I have the same micro wave. it runs for about 2 mins then the breaker flips. It is on a dedicated outlet (20 amp single outlet). The breaker is 20 amp. Running on 12 gauge wire. I tightened the wires at the socket and the breaker still flips. I have not replaced the breaker as of yet. What do you think???? I need your help. Thanks. Could it be a fuse problem?

[@rajeshsubramanian9692]

Did you fix it?

[@danielottinger544]

I have a GE Microwave Oven Model PEB9159DJ2W. The Numerical Indicator at the top of the Control Board malfunctioned, losing some segments of the indicator so I replaced the Control Board with a new OEM part. At this point, everything seems to function but the indicator displays a "HOT" alarm and the unit's fan continues to run. Do you have any suggestions that would resolve this problem?