How to Fix MG Rover Electrical Problems - Pektron Relay Fault - 8/2003 on

Own an MG Rover built after August 2003? Is one of the following not working:
Horn? Drivers electric window? Central Locking? Fog lights? Intermittent wipers?
It is very likely going to be one or several of the Pektron relays in the SCU unit that have gone. The relays are readily available for about £5 each on the web. It can all be fixed in under a day with some soldering tools, sockets, patience and perseverance.
Such a shame one small component, not even made by Rover, have just a detrimental effect on electrical reliability.
Here we fix a 2004 MG ZR but the Pektron relay are also used in the MG ZS, Rover 25 45 and MGF, so the general instructions are also applicable to them. Just the location of the SCU unit will vary.
On the MG ZR with a/c most garages will say the a/c has to be degassed etc (more cost) but here we leave the a/c connected. The SCU unit can just about be wiggled out from behind the a/c evaporator(radiator) unit with it still connected if some of the pipes clamps are loosened.
I wouldn't just replace with the same pektron relays, get the better quality replacement ones. This is where to get them on eBay:
ebay.us/toB4de
Pop into Amazon or eBay and you'll find people selling soldering irons, solder and solder suckers that are also required for this job. Just searching for those names should give you a lot of sellers. For instance on eBay here are soldering iron stations similar to the one I used:
ebay.us/UbRRx8
Or some others on Amazon, USA: amzn.to/2nvtENP
And Amazon uk: amzn.to/2mRx4gU
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[@steveclifford4393]

Much respect to you for bothering to film this , I may have to remove the ECU on my Streetwise and was not looking forward to it but now I have an approach , thank you .

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers.

[@hughgorton2024]

Thank you for this video. It's given me the confidence to try replacing one of the relays on the Pektron unit on my MG TF.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. Glad to help. I would replace them all however. Good luck

[@comeinhandynow]

Here the place to get the replacement relays: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=10&pub=5575193927&toolid=10001&campid=5337910930&customid=&icep_uq=Replacement+relay+pektron&icep_sellerId=technozen_electronics&icep_ex_kw=&icep_sortBy=12&icep_catId=&icep_minPrice=&icep_maxPrice=&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg

[@merlin8166]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I am about to tackle a non working horn.

[@comeinhandynow]

+Paul Mahon Thanks, good luck with yours.

[@AKAldolius]

Thank for making this video buddy. Came in so handy. Not just for finding the damn unit and removing it. But also for desoldering the relays. Great job.

[@comeinhandynow]

Nice of you to say so, thanks very much.

[@AKAldolius]

+comeinhandynow my pleasure. Also posted a link to your video in the mgzr owners club forum. ;)

[@comeinhandynow]

Cheers

[@alexhasell4462]

I have just tackled this job for first time yesterday I consider myself competent by no means an expert but I know my way around a tool set.That said, I think you need to add a note to the video, to make it clear if you have air con the difficulty of removing the SCU should not be underestimated! It has proven to be extremely awkward one of the worst jobs I've ever had to do, and I've done a lot. The video while is very good and I'm very grateful for it, it is slightly misleading as to the units actual location it looks like the SCU is on the top of the air con unit when it's actually right behind it at the bottom, this is shown in the video but not until you reinstall it. Also putting it back is total nightmare. While no doubt this job is possible without removing the AC unit, in all honesty. If I have to repeat this job in the future I will be degassing and removing it completely. Overall fantastic tips in the vid! Good work. Prepare to say some choice words and have some plaster on hand :)

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for the feedback and I agree with your comments, it is awkward. I actually did it twice on that car with a/c, I only changed a couple of faulty relays the first time and then another one went, so had to do the job again to change all of the relays. It was slightly easier the second time and the key thing is slackening the mounts in the engine bay for the a/c pipes to allow a bit more room to get the bcu in and out. Because of the effort involved, it's well worth changing all 5 relays rather than just the failed ones.

[@brentongovender6762]

Thanks your videos are a huge help

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks for the kind feedback.

[@TheMadbiker666]

thanks for info will go try it see if it fixes my car :)

[@lancemcelhinney7031]

Please read! This video has gave me confidence on doing my Mg zs 2005 1.8 petrol pekron module/unit is located behind the Astray In the central console little bit easier to remove than a he mg zr,

[@comeinhandynow]

well done

[@TheLordLaing]

Glad i found your videos, very helpful. Do you work at a Rover specialist garage? There seems to be a lot of Rovers on your channel.

[@comeinhandynow]

+Mr-Laing No I just quite like them and have owned a few. They are generally under appreciated and so cheap but there are a few gems amongst them, the mg zs v6, 620ti, mgtf vvc to name a few.

[@824seeker]

Hi Jerry . Excellent facility you provide us novices. I have a 2005 Rover 25 . Both front windows suddenly stopped working and are in the fully open position. I'm hoping there's something more simple like a fuse to change . Can you tell me where the fuse would be please

[@comeinhandynow]

Not sure. I suggest getting a Haynes workshop manual and check their wiring diagrams in there

[@themicrokid]

Thank you @comeinhandynow. I have an 04 plate Streetwise (Mk1) that I replaced the drivers door lock actuator on and after a couple of months it developed a problem where the central locking/unlocking would continue to operate whenever the drivers door was open. The problem stops when the door is shut. Because I dont want to overload all the old actuators I pulled the central locking fuse. Been waiting for weather to warm up to try and check all the door wiring but then a few days ago I Iost the function in the intermittent wiper. So now I presume Ive got Pektron relay problems - I'll probably replace them all but do you think that is the cause of the central locking issue?

[@comeinhandynow]

I’d say you may have two problems.

[@sonomaggiorenne18]

Great video. I have a 2005 zr 105 and the I Pektron next to the OBD socket. do not work the intermittent wiper (speed 1) the other 2 speed work. If I enter into reverse the rear wiper is activated. With this work I solve the problem? thanks

[@TheNitelaM]

Roberto Tasso Can you tall me what you do? What part I must change. I have same problem as you and it drives my crazy. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

The intermittent wiper is controlled by the pektron relay in the BCU, as shown in the video. You need to order new better relays, search on www.eBay.co.uk for "replacement pektron relays mg rover", the ones from technozen are the ones I used and can recommend, about £5 each.

[@johnpersonage7220]

My Rover 25 has a weird fault. The colder the weather, the longer the headlights take to come on. In summer they come on almost immediately, but in winter it can take a few minutes and when it's very cold it can take 10 minutes or more. When they come on they stay on and behave perfectly fine. I was hoping the relays mentioned in your video may help, but it seems not. My search continues.

[@comeinhandynow]

Tricky that one. I can only suggest attaching a voltmeter / multimeter to various parts of the lighting circuit and looking at the voltage when this happens. Start at the battery and then after the light relay, then to the bulb.

[@yensabi]

You make great video"s that have helped a lot with my rover 25 repairs , now i have a new problem with the car , everything works OK but when i use the fob or key to lock the car the central locking locks all the doors as normal and sets the immobiliser but after about 30 seconds the alarm goes off , i can turn it off with the fob or key and the car starts and drives perfectly OK but the only way i can stop this happening is to lock the car with the bonnet up and then remove the earth from the battery and then close the bonnet , then when i want to use the car i unlock with the key and re connect the battery.....would you know of a possible solution to this , thanks for any advice you can give .

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks very much, glad you enjoy them. On your alarm the difficulty is finding what is triggering it. I guess it’s not the ultrasonic space intrusion because that is not used when you only use the key. So its either a door/bonnet switch (you try shorting all these out to try and identify it) or maybe it’s detected a battery voltage change due to a poor earth maybe and the battery voltage changing when things power down after a short delay. You could try pulling fuses on everything apart from immobiliser / lock stuff to see if you can stop it being triggered. Might show something.

[@yensabi]

@@comeinhandynow Thanks for your reply and advise , I’ll try what you have suggested and see if I can find it and I’ll let you know the outcome.....👍

[@comeinhandynow]

@@yensabi Ok, yep be interesting and useful for future reference.

[@josepeixoto3384]

it takes a few top engineers to come up with a location like that, the average joe blow could not do it (thanks, now i know what i am up against when my 2005 25 1.4 starts conking up..)

[@comeinhandynow]

Good luck. It doesn’t stop me liking Rovers however, the problems are smaller than many cars.

[@edys129]

WIll this affect the front and rear washer pumps? Im having issue with both pumps not being activated via the stalk. All fuses seem to be intact and both pumps work. TIA

[@comeinhandynow]

I don’t think so. Try the wiring diagram in the haynes manual to work out where the pumps connect to.

[@daz147]

Thanks for this video, I just bought my daughter a rover streetwise and the horn isn't working.

[@Emilio57]

ditto

[@ewanjones2546]

Hi. Just purchase a run around 2003 MG ZT CDTI 2LTR Estate. Have issue with the central locking. The key fob opens the car but it wont lock it. Have to do this manually. When pressing the key fob, the light shows on the fob but nothing happens. Any ideas.

[@comeinhandynow]

I can only suggest searching the web or those MGrover forums.

[@russ2tuff]

I definitely believe I have this problem as passenger side is fine an I also bought a 2nd hand window motor which don't work but does if I connect it to the passenger side, I work long hrs 6 days a week so my question is how much would this cost if I went to the garage?? An also are all the pecktron relays the same identification number? many thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

An ordinary garage wouldn't get involved in component soldering, but if you get the bcu box out the this guy will do the upgrade for you via mail order: www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/mg-rover-pektron-scu-repair-services-spare-parts/ All the relays are the same type, but the new better ones will have different markings. See the link in the video description if you want to buy the relays.

[@russ2tuff]

+comeinhandynow thank you for that I just have 1 last question which is I guess I need to disconnect battery before starting? an also changing this relay/relays, it won't interfier/mess up any thing like alarms, fobs, immobiliser? Thank you for your feedback an iv subscribed to your channel

[@comeinhandynow]

When I did it on mine I didn't disconnect the battery and it didn't mess up the alarm/fobs etc. But if you want to be safer, then disconnecting the battery shouldn't mess it up either. You might have to press the fob a few times for the system to resync. Of course I can't guarantee all this, but that was my experience. Good luck.

[@Ukrainian_Crimea]

Hello there! Is it possible that broken relay is responsible for my car radio and light bulb in the luggage compartment not working? I've got Rover streetwise 1.4, and recently when I was installing a LED bulb in the luggage compartment radio and the mentioned light just stopped working, I checked the right fuses under the steering wheel and all of them are working fine, I also checked the fuse in the radio itself... there is no power in the cable powering the radio and no power in the cables powering the light bulb in luggage compartment.. I'm stuck can you help me out, mate ? All the help will be greatly appriciated !

[@comeinhandynow]

That wouldn’t be the relay more likely a fuse as you have already realised, there may be another fuse box under the bonnet. It is best to check the wiring diagram to locate the fuse for the radio and for that you should get a Haynes manual

[@kennykelsall7084]

help got mg zr on 03 plate no indicators rev counter and speedo work when they won't to and when i turn the wipers on the engine cuts out

[@comeinhandynow]

1st measure the battery voltage (get a multimeter, only about £5). Should be about 13.4 volts with engine running. Measure at ECU. If not check connections to it for ground and power. 2nd check earth straps and that every circuit has a good supply voltage. 3rd if necessary for tracing circuit wiring, get a Haynes manual for your car. They have wiring diagrams in the back.

[@Shakis87]

I have a 2001 Rover 45, the driver side electric window does not work and everything else is fine. You have listed this for a >2003 model but do you think this could be my issue too? I have no power getting to the electric window or switch.

[@comeinhandynow]

I think it’s different for earlier models. Best to try and trace the wiring back further to the fuse box. Maybe a wiring diagram from the Haynes manual would help.

[@michaelconchuir6523]

you my friend are an absolute legend, i have just fixed my 05 plate MG ZR 160 by following this exact video, you have no idea how happy you have made me, send me your paypal email and i will buy you a pint of the good stuff as a thank you :)

[@comeinhandynow]

You are very kind. Any contributions will be very much appreciated to paypal email [e-mail]

[@comeinhandynow]

paypal.me/comeinhandy

[@damienpercival4310]

Were is the tensioner so i can put my new altornator belt on my mg zr 2 lt 05 plate diesel pls

[@comeinhandynow]

Alternator belts often don’t have a tensioner, they are given tension by the position of the alternator, so slacken or remove alternator bolts to fit or adjust the belt.

[@oimtiff]

Hi. You saved me a fortune when my wife's Rover 25 horn stopped working. I changed the relay and sorted. Thanks Now, three weeks later I get a call from my wife at work to say the alarm was sounding but no lights were flashing. When I got there the battery was flat so hooked it up to my car. Alarm sounded but managed to silence it with the key fob. Central locking doesn't work. Car won't start. Lights don't work. Very dim ignition lights, that disappear when the key is turned. There is a steady clicking sound associated with the alarm led. I've changed the relay associated with the central locking but no change. I'm wondering if there is an earth fault but I'm scratching my head. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

Richard Odlin Glad it helped originally. Very dim ignition lights that disappear when try to start and your other symptoms all point to a knackered battery. Batteries usually get knackered once they are fully discharged. So first measure the battery voltage and fully charge it up overnight with a battery charger to see if you can get it back to life. It will probably need a new battery soon. Then try central locking, if it has lost sync you may have to keep pressing the fob buttons until it syncs up again and works (assuming good fob battery!). If battery is good lights should work and car engine should turn over and hopefully start. As to why the alarm sounded, sometimes something in the car, like a fly, might set off the interior space ultrasonic monitor. If it keeps doing it then locking with the door key only keeps the ultrasonic monitor off (model dependant so check handbook), so won't trigger an alarm. Useful when leaving a dog in the car. Also possibly a really flat battery might also trigger odd electronics behaviour like setting off alarm or turning rad fan on. Good luck!

[@oimtiff]

comeinhandynow Hi. Thanks for that. I'll look at the battery. As it happens we always lock the car with the key as the alarm was always going off. We've had the car getting on ten years and had very few problems, with the exception of the alarm, but if it carries on like this it will be heading to that great layby in the sky. Thanks again.

[@oimtiff]

Richard Odlin Hi again. Battery was at fault. Thanks. Car starts fine all electrics work with the exception of the central locking. The drivers side will lock from the fob but won't unlock nothing happens with passenger door. Strangely, I can't unlock the passenger door manually either. You can hear the relay clicking when I press the unlock button on the fob. Any ideas, as I'm at a loss. Thanks again

[@comeinhandynow]

Richard Odlin When you changed the horn relay, did you change the other relays too? If not that is my first theory, one or more of the other relays have gone. They really should all be changed to better non pektron ones for the systems to be competely reliable. You can measure the resistance of the coils in each relay to confirm if it has gone or not. There are two relays within each relay box. When those are confirmed as working, then move onto measuring the voltages at the door solenoid inside the door panel. The best bet is those relays though, it sounds like the passenger door is still deadlocked which is a separate relay from unlocking normally.

[@oimtiff]

comeinhandynow I had changed out the deadlocking relay and the central locking relay. I re-soldered the pins just in case there was a dry joint, or whatever the expression is. Seems to have done the trick as doors are fully functional again.Many many thanks for taking the time to help as it was invaluable.

[@sointellectual1192]

Will this work for a rover 25 2005 reg? As my front wiper does not work but the rear does and also my car locking system does not work it will unlock the car but won’t lock it and I also have issues with the heating as it only works on the third setting onwards not 1,2 could you please help thank you!

[@comeinhandynow]

Please see the video description. Applies to cars after 8/2003 so yes. Fixes intermittent wiper action and locking. See my other video on fixing the heater fan.

[@1djandi]

hi i need some help..i recently bought a 1995 rover 416 and my a/c won't work properly..when i turn it on the car just dies..my mechanic told me that the a/c was put on after the car was bought and he thinks that it has a bigger compressor and that the car can't support it..

[@comeinhandynow]

Sounds like the compressor is seized. Look at the compressor when someone in the car turns on the a/c. It should go from not turning to turning round as the a/c clutch on the compressor is engaged. Does the end turn at all? Try giving the engine some more throttle and revs to stop it stalling. Does the compressor turn round then? You could also try turning it by hand to see how difficult the compressor is to turn.

[@TeamDangerous]

im also guessing that this unit is unique to your car and you cannot be replaced from another car?(without reprogramming)

[@comeinhandynow]

Correct

[@tomasztomasz2847]

Hi. I need help in my car rover streetwise some things are not working 1. rear wiper 2. rear wiper washer 3. brake lights 4. reversing lights 5. electric mirrors. I have already checked the reverse sensor in the box.bulbs. fuses. the comfort module, the only thing I noticed is that if I connect the wire from the stop sensor at the brake pedal to the wire in the relay box under the steering wheel, everything starts to work only that when you try to short-circuit in the lamps, the fuse does not burn, so it is quite dangerous. Do you have any idea?

[@comeinhandynow]

My thoughts: 1 Get a Haynes manual for the wiring diagrams that will allow you to see what each wire connects to so you can test the voltage on the wires at each point. Get a multimeter/voltmeter to do the measuring. 2 Brake light problems are commonly caused by a worn brake pedal switch, dismantle that and check it. 3. Electric mirror problems are often caused by internal motor mount problems, if it is making a noise but not moving, else check the wiring again. 4 Check earth connection voltages as well as +12v/power wiring. Your description of ‘everything starting to work’ when you make your own wired connection (not sure where you are connecting) sounds a bit like a common earth or power connection is broken. You can identify this by testing both earth and power voltages on the bits that don’t work.

[@vidaemportugal8194]

Help me please. I have a Rover 25 stopped working its alarm command after replacing the battery.

[@comeinhandynow]

VIDA EM PORTUGAL Press lock 4 times and unlock 4 times and keep repeating until it works. It needs to resynchronise after a battery disconnect.

[@NOT_SURE..]

if you disconnect the battery will that activate the immobiliser ? can you do this job without discconnecting battery

[@comeinhandynow]

You can I think. I think that is was I did. You can also disconnect battery if you wish but you will need radio code to reenable that.

[@beneaton91nexus]

Hi, I am trying to remove my BCU as per this video. Glove box off, brackets off, filter out, etc. I can move the evaporator quite a lot but for the life of me I cannot find the BCU. Is it behind the evaporator? I've felt and got a torch in there and cannot see it. Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

In between the evaporator and bulkhead, as mentioned in video you have to move evaporator out a bit. Some models like the Mgf I think have it behind the central console. Google the model you have to find where it should be located. Be interested to know how you get on. Good luck

[@beneaton91nexus]

@@comeinhandynow Hi, Thanks for the reply a while back. I have a ZR and I did manage to get the BCU out. I found it easier to remove the AC Housing (AC previously already removed). Once BCU repaired I will intend to re-fit the housing, but mount the BCU somewhere better. A question though, the board and relays look in VERY good condition.. I'd expect if the relays were effected by water ingress then I'd expect to 'see' an issue? Or can the board and relays look fine from aesthetics but still have been damaged? - Drivers window does not go UP (only down) - Horn does not work - Alarm triggers if locked via Fob So I do have multiple symptoms of BCU relay issue, but really worrying if the relays get replaced and issues still present! Haha Cheers

[@beneaton91nexus]

Just re-watched the bit where you had the BCU out, yours didn't "look" like there was anything wrong with it. Feeling a bit more hopeful that this is the issue! Thanks again

[@comeinhandynow]

@@beneaton91nexus It’s not water ingress that makes the relays fail, it’s that a wire breaks deep inside the coil of the relay, from what I can see. So they will look fine from the outside. Hopefully changing them will fix the issues, just be careful not to break any pcb connections when replacing.

[@brunolindeza7005]

Thanks my left window doesn't work.

[@blackboltthunder]

I own an MG ZR 2004 i replaced the battery in one of the fob's and its it doesnt work at all and wont sync up to the central locking ive tried everything. Also the hazard lights go off by themselves when i turn on the cd player, when i removed the cd and re-attached it they stayed on and only went off after i turned the car off and let it sit for a while. Also sometimes starting her theres very little kick from the battery. When i turn on front wipers the back ones go off. Any ideas???

[@comeinhandynow]

+TheNotoriousTMC Worn out car battery and fob needs syncing by repeatly pressing open and close lots of times near to the car. Sorry for late reply, just noticed this!

[@kgland3580]

Hi I have a mg ZR 2005 an iv lost the key fob or immobiliser unit .I still have key ,is there a after market or replacement fob key supplier that can replace an a method to sync etc I live in newzealand an there isn't a abundance of parts shops etc

[@GBMark90]

Could this give a immobiliser fault? The immobiliser is on and the central locking would turn it off as it doesn’t work. Rover 45

[@comeinhandynow]

It’s just for the faults listed. i.e. Horn, Drivers electric window, Central Locking, Fog lights, Intermittent wipers.

[@TeamDangerous]

Just bought a 2005 mgzr ,you can unlock the car remotely but cant`t lock it with the remote. Everything else works fine in the car except this . Could it be this unit ? Only way I can lock it is by pushing button down on passenger door & using key in drivers door (its only a 3 door!)

[@comeinhandynow]

It is probably these relays that need changing

[@paulbb27]

think ur right mate 👍 gonna get that bcu relay out & get the relays replaced soon, hopefully that'll fix it as it's doing my head in!!

[@TeamDangerous]

clint ezra tried another remote but still doesn't work 😔 also the button inside on the dash that's meant to lock all the doors doesn't work either,

[@DJ-JAY-Q]

Hi my horn is not working do you think I’ll need a new fuse ?

[@comeinhandynow]

Probably not the fuse. Probably the relay as in this video.

[@murphy1102]

hi do you no if this will affect the hazards switch

[@comeinhandynow]

I don't think so

[@murphy1102]

I have a problem with the drivers window but I just can't get hazard working light to work I checked almost every think

[@comeinhandynow]

Go through the wiring from the power end, to switch, to lights etc and test at every stage. Use a wiring diagram (Haynes manual)

[@petrosnemardos]

Hi, my glove box is still slack and won't close properly. I suspect the engineer did it when installing a black box. Any ideas ? Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

The trick to fixing anything is to work out how the latch works and to figure out why it is not working by looking at it. Then you will be a able to see how to fix it. See if that approach helps.

[@petrosnemardos]

@@comeinhandynow i'll have a look at the two bolts you undid. I thought it was the other two facing outwards. Thanks.

[@DJ-JAY-Q]

Hi any help my horn is not working in my mg zr changed the fuse under glove box still not working ? Also I need to take it for mot any help ? Thanks

[@comeinhandynow]

Hi Jay, it is probably the issue I talk about in this video. From the video description section: “Own an MG Rover built after August 2003? Is one of the following not working: Horn? Drivers electric window? Central Locking? Fog lights? Intermittent wipers? It is very likely going to be one or several of the Pektron relays in the SCU unit that have gone”

[@DJ-JAY-Q]

@@comeinhandynow thanks where is the scu unit ? Also it’s going for mot tomorrow can they fix it you think ?

[@eusebioveiga1914]

Good afternoon, I have seen your videos and you are a great professional, could you help me? I have a MG ZR 1.4 since 2003, I really like my car, but a horrible breakdown has come up and I can't find a solution, occasionally the idle goes crazy, the revs go up and down without control, this is very embarrassing, I've tried solve this by changing IAC, TPS, MAP, Temperature Sensors, camshaft, crankshaft, lambda probe, clean connections, check cables, vacuum tubes, change ignition coils, cables, spark plugs .... I don't know what else do, this is maddening, the only thing that works is to turn the ignition key and step 5 times on the accelerator pedal, but the fault appears again in a few days, sometimes weeks ... Could you help me please? Thank you.

[@comeinhandynow]

Thanks. Yes a fun car to drive. It sounds like the fuel mixture has gone off and the E?CU is stuck in an adjustment loop trying to compensate or trying to adjust the IAC motor (Idle control). When the revs are going up and down try disconnecting the plug to the IAC to see if that is involved and see if it stops. If it does your could leave it disconnected - the idle should stay at the position it was at when you unplugged it, so you could do it at say 1000 rpm which is not too high but is enough to stop it stalling when cold. If that doesnt help you have to look at how the air/fuel ratio could have gotten upset. Normally this is monitored and set by the ecu by it looking at the lambda/oxygen sensor. An OBD2 dongle with IPhone software is very cheap (see my video on this) and would show you results from these so you can check them.

[@eusebioveiga1914]

Thank you very much for your answer, a while ago, when I also had this problem, I restarted by pressing the pedal 5 times and then disconnected the iac valve, when it was close to 1000rpm, a few weeks later the problem returned, not as serious as before, but the Revolutions were still crazy, so I thought it would be the first lambda probe and decided to change it, but this did not solve the problem either, after a few weeks it happened again.

[@eusebioveiga1914]

I do not know if it will be a coincidence, but on some occasions, the fault has appeared when the wheels have skidded on the gravel when accelerating, for this last reason, yesterday I was checking the speed sensor and the abs sensors ... I don't know what to think, I run out of ideas.

[@eusebioveiga1914]

Some time ago I bought an elm327 obd2, but no code appears when this fault occurs.

[@comeinhandynow]

@@eusebioveiga1914 What about reading the lambda sensor readings when this occurs. By the sound of things the mixture strength is off, maybe an air leak.

[@RaspberryCai]

I just got my rover today, and the electric mirrors don't work and neither does the rear drivers side indicator. I don't know what the problem could be?

[@comeinhandynow]

Check the bulb. Try ebay for a second hand mirror. Get a Haynes manual to help fixing and servicing it.

[@RaspberryCai]

comeinhandynow unfortunately I don't think it's the bulb. As for the mirrors, I'll try what you said. I hope it's not a problem with the ecu but surely I'd have more problems if it was?

[@comeinhandynow]

Doesn’t sound ECU related. With any electrical problems it’s best to get a multimeter(voltmeter) and using the circuit diagram from the Haynes manual, then measure at different points on the circuit related to your fault to try and track down where the fault is. On bulbs measure their resistance to check them, then measure the voltage on the plug and wiring going all the way back through the switches and fuses etc. Eventually you will find one spot that has some voltage (usually 12v but it will be going between 0v and 12v if an indicator circuit) and further along another spot that hasn’t any voltage. So the fault lies in between.

[@RaspberryCai]

comeinhandynow brilliant, I'll give it a shot. I don't want to return the car because its sold as spares or repairs and I don't want to go through the trouble of trying to get money back on it, so fixing it myself is the only option. I'll see how it goes anyway

[@comeinhandynow]

If it was a “spares or repair” I would expect quite a few faults. If you only have those then it’s a good buy.

[@bobgates456]

i thought i would mention,,if your air con is drained or not working,as mine was,,its a lot easier to remove the air con box,,,a lot of huffing and puffing saved...

[@comeinhandynow]

That is true, but I wouldn’t leave it disconnected for long as it may mean a new dryer canister is need in the a/c if you decide to regas it, as it may absorb water from the air. If it’s not fully pumped out the release of cfc’s is damaging to the ozone layer. Not that a one off makes much difference.

[@mattstyles8605]

I have "03" rover 25 2.0TDI. Goes into limp mode (fixed 1200RPM & no throttle) when headlights are turned on, any ideas?

[@comeinhandynow]

maffu waring Headlights on means a lower battery voltage to the ecu if your alternator or battery is poor or the wiring has a poor connection somewhere. A low voltage to the ecu may push it into limp home mode. I would start by checking the battery voltage going to the ecu (use a multimeter) to see if it changes when this fault happens. The voltage would normally be around 13 volts. Good luck!

[@mattstyles8605]

comeinhandynow​ it is fine with AC, rear heated window, ew etc. I was thinking the same until it was fine with these drains

[@comeinhandynow]

Headlamps take a lot of current, probably more than those others. Checking ecu voltage is probably a good place to start.

[@mattstyles8605]

Any chance of a step by step? I'm hoping it's something simple lmao

[@mattstyles8605]

comeinhandynow​

[@marcbastion9286]

I have got a rover 75 can't get one of the number plate lights to work can any one help me with the problem

[@comeinhandynow]

A Haynes manual may help in terms of taking it apart, perhaps. If all else fails put in an extra wire connecting it to a light that does work.

[@marcbastion9286]

I bought two new bulbs passenger side works but driver side doesn't

[@hondacr250hrc4]

Hi mate my passenger window works then stops for a week then works again any I dear if not thanks anyway

[@comeinhandynow]

Try taking the panel off the door, to get access to the window motor. Connect a multimeter to the wires to the motor. See if it reads 12v across some of the wires when you press the window switch. Keep this connected over the coming weeks and see if the readings are consistent. This will tell you whether it is the window motor that is the problem or the wiring from other parts.

[@hondacr250hrc4]

comeinhandynow thank you very much I'll give it a go

[@Beetlefan]

My advice is to replace all the relays while you've got the unit out of the car

[@comeinhandynow]

I agree

[@lights0ut503]

Hi I don't want to get into this if I don't have to This is my issue Hi all IV got an 54 facelift mg zr the dahslights (Speedo rev count) background light does not come on, I have checked all fuses under bonnet and under drives steering wheel area. I have taken the dash out and checked bulbs and none are blown. What else could the issue be caused by. If it helps the car randomly stalled when idling parked up and when the car started back up the dash lights where now not working. Has anyone had this before or know what else do can check to fix this issue? Help appreciated Thank you UPDATE* SINCE THE ISSUE HAS OCCURED THE FRONT bumper passenger indicated bulb doesn't work if you use the hazard lights but if you indicate with the stalk it's fine, The passenger window also now no longer working. And a rear passenger tail light also not working So is there a relay or some electrical thing that these Al go to which has blown like a relay or something or a circuit board??

[@comeinhandynow]

Sounds like you have a corroded earth point that is causing a bit of havoc. Try and measure the voltage at a bulb that should be on but isn’t and see if it the positive side that is not at 12v or the negative side that is not at 0v. You must measure the voltage with your negative multimeter probe on the battery negative dirrectly. This test should guide you in the right direction.

[@lights0ut503]

Okay thank you is the earth I should be looking at the battery earth or one off the alternator that could've bad?

[@comeinhandynow]

Probably some junction somewhere, but you need to trace it back from the point of failure. So measure the voltage between the battery negative and the negative connection to a failing bulb. If that is not zero then the earth .connection that that wire goes to is bad. Trace it back.

[@peteraudley4671]

What's wrong with rover putting them under the bonnet instead !?

[@comeinhandynow]

Maybe lack of space, harsher environment, maybe not convenient for the wiring. Who knows? Any Rover designers out there?

[@peterodens9710]

oh ok then

[@MrReeceyburger123]

Just fixed my zr with AC couldnt get the box back in so moved it, what a shit design by rover

[@comeinhandynow]

Awkward yes. Not much space in a ZR so I guess that why it's in that place. It's in better places on ZS and mgtf I read.

[@peterodens9710]

why dont you just buy some desoldering tape its easier

[@comeinhandynow]

+Pete Rodens It's down to personal preference I guess, but I've always found a solder sucker better at evacuating all the solder from the PCB holes, whereas desoldering braid will leave holes filled. It's good if it works for you though.

[@bridgetflynn192]

Tried the link you gave and Technozen Electronics did an awful job on it - and took forever to send it back - Stay away.

[@comeinhandynow]

Oh that's a shame, I hadn't tried them myself, so that's useful feedback for others. Best to try doing it yourself then.

[@coryn1980]

Sorry mate but you are off your head 😅😅mine will not come out no chance in hell 😅

[@comeinhandynow]

Take a break, wait until you are feeling patient or up for a challenge, then try again at the same time working out what the problem is.

[@coryn1980]

​@comeinhandynow I did it mate I won the only reason I have removed it my front screen whashers are not working the relay is clicking but no power at the plug