How to fix Saitek Pro Flight Yoke Dead Zone with a Leo Bodnar BU0836A 12-bit controller

[@tleveque]

I just did this mod, and it is working perfectly! For the two sets of cables, I used the ones that were already connected to the potentiometers and soldered them to the small connector that came with the board in the same order. One of the cable sets had a wire with a red stripe, which I connected to the +5V side on the board. For the other set, there was a black wire that I connected to the ground side. Everything worked on the first try! Even the X and Y axes were on the correct connectors. It also works fine with MSFS2024. It’s much better now!

[@alexcurmi7412]

I found that signal was yellow for me and voltage was red. I wired it the way you said in the video and the controls were very jumpy and unresponsive. I thought my board was broken but after switching the connections of signal and +5v around, it was perfect. I guess Saitek wired the potentiometers differently on a few models

[@ShawnONeal-o1t]

Highly recommend this upgrade if anyone is debating it. This and rubber bands for pitch control (I just kept spring for roll) and it's so much easier to get butter soft landings

[@wj625]

I’m upgrading an old gameport style joystick and you helped me decide on which board to use!

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

Glad it helped! Thanks for your comment

[@lightiv]

Ok, this worked out great. I ran into problems which turned out to be because I did not clear the assignments for the Elevators and Ailerons from the Flight Yoke System in MSFS config. I suggest that you do this first before installing the new board. Additionally, I did ended up switching the yellow and red wire from what is in the video. Next, I plan on modding the you tension.

[@Stoney3K]

Rule of thumb for potentiometers: The wiper (signal) is always in the middle, there's a fixed resistance between the two outer pins which are on opposite ends of the carbon track.

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

👍

[@supertuxkartgamingexperien5728]

Thank you for the great fix. There is a simplified version of that fix: add a resistor e.g. 39k (I have 33k potentiometers) into the potentiometers positive supply wires. That will reduce the signal and the ADC/firmware does not apply that dead zone gap in that range. Of course one has to recalibrate after that and the resolution is reduced by 1 bit, but for me that works still very well. I also removed just one of the two elevation centering springs and that gives a usable yoke for me.

[@way5718]

Any tuto or video that shows the modification you're describing?

[@supertuxkartgamingexperien5728]

@@way5718 no, but I don't think it's necessary. It should work the same if you would use the negative (GND) supply line for adding the resistors, just take any of the outer connections at the potentiometers.

[@alexgallegos4526]

hi mate could u please help me with that? buy a leobodnar board is so expensive

[@krikol_77]

Thanks, it’s working great ! (Except for some easy fix issues). I gave up on this little project 2 years ago because of the jumpy controls (wrong spot for the cables) but now it’s fixed ^^

[@RobertoDelDuca]

Question... Why not cut the usb connector and solder the cables directly on the solder points of the usb port on the original pcb? The hole would not be necessary and you would not see unnecessary cables coming out of the yoke

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

It is a good option as well!

[@krikol_77]

Works fine on MSFS2024 until you plug it off while in the sim. If you replug it after, the yoke will being eracticly and you will have to launch the sim again. I'll do more testing when I'll build my own setup.

[@zsolttakacs4223]

Thanks, it works perfectly✋

[@Pyrolassist]

Has anyone done this mod but with hall effect sensors as well? Does the Leo Bodnar board work with hall effect sensors?

[@НиколайФролов-л2г]

Is Arduino Uno suitable for this?

[@BiffsEquipment]

Yes I would assume so. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.. but you’d have to use the analog side.. the uno has a digital output side and an analog.. since these are analog potentiometers you’d have to use the analog side.. you’d also have to program the uno and add the “game pad” code so the computer sees it as a second controller .. LASTLY though.. I don’t think it will help the issue.. because since you are still using analog with the adurino the pot sensors are still not gonna be accurate and thus still have dead zones.. the board he used CONVERTS it from analog to digital.. which allows the pot sensors to be much more accurate and dynamic If you look around and buy this board direct from China.. you can pay as low as $30. That’s what I paid for mine but it took a good 2 weeks to come in. Def worth it tho as it’s basically the same price as an uno

[@BiffsEquipment]

You also could replace the pot sensors with digital pot sensors.. and THEN use an adrino.. if you did this then you’d fix the issue after programming the adrino as I mentioned above… BUT by the time your done buying the pot sensors and the uno and doing all the work of coding it.. I just can’t see it being worth it. This board he used doesn’t require any programming.. just plug (solder) and play.

[@6ALEX02]

Can I use the buttons on the yoke after installing the board?

[@Fadamor]

The buttons are on their own wires. If you only cut the wires to the potentiometers like BarcelonaAustin did, then the buttons will continue to work like they always did.

[@upjohn5548]

How to connect with LeoBodnar BU0836-LC board?

[@_google_user_]

same way you add it to x and y on a slot being + and - on board, if you mess it up you flip the deans connector around on the board. one of those is bound to be the joystick axis.

[@chrisybradshaw8594]

HI AFTER DOING THIS I FOUND THAT ELEVATER WHEN PULLED BACK GOES FORWARD AND VICE VERSER, IE BACK TO FRONT

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

You may have to invert the axis in the configuration

[@lewymartain8267]

Make sure you have your block connectors on the board exactly as it says and the signal is not mixed up with the negative feed. Also make sure nothing is touching anything it shouldn't be wire wise I mean. dont tighten screw too tight on the board. I didn't do this option it is too near the other board for my liking.

[@dash9655]

swapping the outer wires on the potentiometer will invert that axis.

[@immystiq1121]

I have done this and it’s so jumpy and un useable

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

Potentiometers may be beyond repair,,,

[@alexcurmi7412]

I had the same issue, your signal and voltage wires for the potentiometers are the wrong way round. For me, yellow was signal and red was positive

[@BarcelonaAustinA35]

And its different for each brand! Logitech is one way, and then there’s other chinese similar yokes with different wiring distribution lol