How to Flush a Water Heater? | Flushing Will Probably Not Fix Your Problem

[@JLange642]

After 62 years on this planet- I can say that based on my experience, due to the difference in construction and design, your gas water heater will usually last 6-10 years, where electric water heaters last 10-20. My father installed his 80 gallon electric water heater in 1948 and it lasted until 2006! Our homes have always had electric water heaters, where as our business building my father owner had gas-which we replaced at least 4 times in the 42 years I can recall before he sold it. They always end up leaking. As far as the anode rods-like your father says-IF you get the hydrogen sulfide gas coming from your water heater, remove the rod. I have always just pulled it and cut the rod off of the plug fitting at the top and reinstalled the fitting. No more odor after the residual in the tank is gone! Bless your father-he is priceless!

[@hhazelhoff1363]

Being a plumber in Fl, I have drained plenty of water heaters, especially the once’s on well water. Not unusual for me to get a couple gallons of sediment out of them. By flushing and back flushing numerous times, sometimes the sediment gets so high in the tank that it shorts out the bottom element. Just saying, it can help.

[@chillville5571]

Herd, im a tech at apartments and i flush every tank i put new elements in. Also, elements are like brake pads, change both at the same time!

[@jimborambo958]

Agree 100%. I get a bucket of sediments every two years! If I don’t clean the sediments the bottom heating element gets toast!

[@jascatt3341]

I drained mine and I got nothing but water that came out what a waste!

[@hazeleyezluv]

Where in Florida do you reside? Do you disclose prices for your work? Mine is well water. I'm in Wesley Chapel. My husband tried & couldn't figure it out.

[@hhazelhoff1363]

@@hazeleyezluv you can KZbin it. It’s not a difficult procedure. All you really need is a garden hose to drain the tank.

[@RRaucina]

About electric models: 99% of anode rods are factory installed as Aluminum. If you get a smell, change it out to Magnesium [$13 +/-] with a impact wrench and a 1-1/16 socket. After 10 years, change the rod no matter what. Usually it is gone. If you still get odors, change to a electric anode. They work, and are what keep underground gas pipelines lines from leaking. Without an anode, end of life is near. Flushing: Some of us have very hard water- my water heater produces about 5 gallons of calcium sediment every 5 years. I always remove the factory crap drain valve and install a ball valve. Now you can open the valve and go to work with a coat hanger while the inlet is partially on. Indeed, some homes can go 20++ years without a flush and maybe just a few elements and an anode. Anodes don't flake off and fill cracks in the glass or epoxy lining. Rather the anode is sacrificial and is there to be the easiest metal to 'rust' -when the rod is gone, the tank becomes the target of corrosion. Electric water heaters used to be very cheap until recently, like $189 at Ace hardware. Now they are well over $400+. For some peculiar reason Costco had a closeout on GE electric water heaters, 50 gallon for $99 delivered. Bought three as the detachable parts alone are worth more than that! Go figure.

[@roberta9950]

Are you a plumber because you make more sense than him

[@RRaucina]

@@roberta9950 Thanks, I am a builder and try and get deep into the nuances of each trade.

[@frotobaggins7169]

I would like to add that sediment swirls inside a water heater abrading the plastic fill tube, Especially on the fancy heaters with the curved fill tube. As the heater replenishes the water used, it introduces the cold water at the bottom so as to keep the hot water at the top for use. when the fill tube gets perforated, the cold water dilutes the hot water making warm or worse, cold water. I've seen fill tubes that looked like swiss cheese with literally thousands of holes in them. Eventually the fill tube will just disintegrate and the cold water will fill on the top and go right out the hot side giving a no hot water impression. Obviously this is all worse on a well system that may get fine sand in the tank but any sediment in the tank will work the same.

[@TW14137]

Richard is spot on. I have been in the building business for 45 yrs and I'm a critical bastard.. like to do things right. Being a builder, with many personal friends who are/were plumbers, this is the consensus in the industry. Situations can very, depending on your water, from a little to a lot of build up. I feel sediment build up will effect a gas heater more, as the heat transfer surface is starting to be covered/affected right from the start. In an electric, it takes quite a few inches to reach the bottom element. Put in the better drain valve when it's new, and clean every year, if needed. You'll be able to get a feel how often yours needs it after a couple times draining. He is also correct on the sacrificial anode.

[@RRaucina]

@@TW14137 Thanks. So many plumbers just dont really care about or understand water heaters. Builders that provide a complete product are more likely to have a deeper understanding of a homes components.

[@kenchiison4570]

The magnesium rod is a sacrificial anode. It is there to save your heater from corrosion. Dissimilar metals will create electrolysis and will disintegrate the metals. Replace this anode every 5 or so years. That's why you have dielectric fittings on your inlet and outlet as well.

[@MrDabulls73]

Been a plumber for 30 years in Maine and 2 years in AZ , I’m now in Florida. My professional opinion, if you have bad water , sand, hard water . You will want to flush the water heater , it WILL last longer . I Recently bought a house and the water heater is older , I flushed 5 gallons of calcium out of the bottom , the heater was “kettling “ . I solved all the issues and also lowered my electric bill . Yes, I did change the valve at the bottom to help clean properly and also removed the lower element to gain better access to flush with water and used snake camera to see what I was doing.

[@MindzEye03rd]

Was thinking I need to clean mine because it sounds the same, popping after turning on for a few minutes. I live in Las Vegas and the water is very hard, a lot of calcium. I'd say it really depends on the water.

[@-Erebus]

Def necessary in Florida I had a 5 gallon bucket of milk come out. Then everything heated quicker

[@uweheine9079]

We have hard well water. The first time our lower heat element burned out I removed it and was amazed how much calcium was piled up on the bottom. I made a spatula out of a piece of copper pipe that fit into the hole for the heating element and carefully scooped out most of the crud. Flushing would not get it out. Now I do this every couple of years and the heating elements don't burn out because they don't get buried in sediment and overheat. The unit is still working and it's 30 years old!

[@benderenns]

Would you recommend flushing a gas water heater and changing the valve on the bottom to facilitate cleanin?

[@benderenns]

What would be the typical cost of flushing ?

[@jetlaggedchef6806]

Great video! But - the magnesium rod is actually there as the anode to prevent the higher metals from rusting. On boats, we attach a zinc plate to the bottom, then it takes all the stray electrical current and can be replaced instead of having all the other metal on the boat rust.

[@northwexpress]

Christopher Westfall, you're right about anode design. Old Grumpy Plumber shouldn't be passing on bum info.

[@johnwaldrop3211]

Yes he really didn't why the Anonde rod is there, also didn't talk about well water as opposed to city water.

[@gbjr5732]

Correct. I'm a plumber of 18 years. I like Grumpy Plumbers attitude but I can't agree with his beliefs on this topic.

[@cindyhenry1410]

Even our little tiny camper (6 gallon tank) water heater has an anode rod. Makes sense that larger tanks also have one. To not replace it makes no sense....it’s there for a reason!

[@milliesuko]

How can I get rid of “hammering?” I’ve already tried opening all spigots and then turn it on again. Didn’t work. Help!

[@Steve-kl3mo]

A couple comments; Number 1, If you have water pressure coming into your house over 60 psi, you should install a pressure regulator. This is a common practice in many areas. Number 2, depending on you water quality (especially pertaining to calcium), sometimes flushing the tank does help. I attach a small piece of garden hose to a shop vac and use it to suck sediment from the bottom. Overall though dad is right, way too much emphasis placed on flushing, but in some cases and areas it is necessary. With the correct pressure and a little maintenance, I have had tanks last 30+ years.

[@GRRRRRRRRRRME]

What about orange or brown water? I have it coming out of my bathtub for a few seconds. In called my water tank company they said to flush it

[@Steve-kl3mo]

@@GRRRRRRRRRRME Assuming your water supply is good, I would guess this is more a problem with your supply lines than the hot water tank.

[@thecsucihai]

I wonder if the tanks in the old days are made with thicker steel? No one seems to mention this aspect. I never flush my tank just because I didn't know there was a the tank life expectancy...new home owner. I purchased my new home in 2002 and the water tank leak exactly the year it was stated on the tank and then the tank I replaced leaked exaclty 1 year before it was support to expire. I was going to replace it based on the life expectancy year stated on the tank so now I don't trust that number anymore. It seems like the manufacturer know exactly then the tank will leak if you don't flush it regularly. I live in Southern California so I wonder if flushing the tank would help.

[@Steve-kl3mo]

@@thecsucihai You are probably correct in your thinking that old hot water tanks may have used thicker steel. I really don’t know for sure. I do know some new tanks are better than others. I always recommend spending a little more on a better quality tank, since installation labor is a big part of the equation. I personally have a gas hot water tank that was installed in 1990 and it has never been flushed. It still works great. My high end water pressure is set at 60psi and I have a water softener.

[@thecsucihai]

@@Steve-kl3mo I have a Rheem Performance Platinum 12 years life. I will update the status of my tank in 2032 :) I suggest people with tank that are still going strong after 20-30 years let us know what brand and model they have.

[@lindamrupp3236]

I am a 78 y/o widow living remotely in a new-to-me cabin with spring water. I try to keep up with cleaning the filter, but sometimes, like with guests & increased water use, it can get pretty muddy. I was using my favorite partner in crime, KZbin, to get the best way to flush my electric hot water tank, when I found your video, with all the wonderful comments. Thanks a bunch! Saved me time & effort I can surely use on some other project!

[@pattgsm]

I had a new water heater installed about 5 yrs ago and was procrastinating about draining it. I’m glad that I did not drain it. I saw somewhere on KZbin channel AmplifyDIY that it’s recommended to drain it once per year and the Anode Rod every couple of yrs. This service running about $200-$300 which is touted extend the life to 30-40 yrs of use. Both proponents of draining and not draining state that doing gas or electric water heater tanks are rated to last 8-15 yrs. I don’t think I’ll be draining mine but will change the Anode Rod myself. Thanks for this info.

[@patrisha7487]

My Dad was a plumber & he never flushed the water heater. He never told me it needed to be flushed either. If he were here, he would be 85. I appreciate your Dad.👏

[@sealyoness]

My dad wasn't a plumber, but had a couple of friends in different trades. One was a plumber who told him not to bother flushing it. My dad is 88; a Marine, and still not too proud to listen to advice. I appreciate this guy's dad too.

[@MOAB-UT]

The mechanics car is always the last to get fixed. Just because he didn't do it does not mean it is not a good idea. Common sense- get the dirt out...unless you enjoy showering and brushing your teeth with that type of cruddy, smelling water. I flushed mine a few times and the water did not look very good. It can also get into your new washing machine, dishwasher, etc.

[@strikerj4810]

I think it depends on your region.

[@tedharris1314]

​ @UTAH100 This is 100% correct. I am a plumber (24 years and licensed) and I intend to flush my water heater (mine is gas) once or twice a year but rarely do. I even made a hard piped set up to do it easily since the sump pit is nearby. I replaced the existing drain valve with a full port ball valve. I also have a union in the hard pipe after the valve with another piece made up with a half union so that i can have a hose connection which is required by code where I live. This is overkill for sure. Especially since as I said I rarely flush it. After a long period of not flushing we notice that if we are away for the weekend (water not being used) when we return the hot water doesn't last very long. Then I flush it and it does seem to solve that issue. I suspect that "Dad plumber" is correct that flushing doesn't get nearly all of the sediment out, but it does seem to be enough to help. If you really want to get all the sediment out, you could take your water here outside remove the drain valve, put a hose to it and spin it around as you are flushing et cetera. Super easy and convenient right? I agree with the comment about the water pressure. Where I live, it is required by code to install a pressure reducing valve if your street pressure is above a certain amount. I do believe that flushing probably extends the life of your water heater, but by how much I have no idea. I agree that it greatly depends on the quality of water that you have in your area. There are other ways to extend the life of your water heater like adding a second anode rod, thicker rods( saw a good video on this a number of years ago) or even a powered anode rod which will also eliminate the sulphur smell if you have it. You can also switch the type of anode rod as the type of water you have can react with the type of metal differently. Incidentally, I recently replaced a water heater for my best friend and there was an incredible amount of sediment in the old tank. Just saying. Also if you put ten different plumbers in a room they would probably have ten different opinions on any given subject and nuance is allowed even though the internet is where nuance goes to die. So I wouldn’t say"dad plumber" is 100% wrong as another commenter did. He is 100% right about not messing with the T&P valve which i only learned about 5 years ago! Cheers.

[@MOAB-UT]

​@@tedharris1314nice thanks for the detailed explanation. Can you help me understand why on the initial wash in my Speed Queen washing machine it smells like sulfur or even sewer water? On the second load of wash I don't smell that. I assume it's getting some of that smell from the drainage pipe is there any way to fix this? Hoping no bacteria is getting into that water

[@joesanchez4895]

We had a 44 year old natural gas water and never flushed never changed the magnesium rod . So I totally agree with what was said.

[@r.j.martin1818]

I have a 16yo electric in SE Alabama and a 30yo gas water heater in Western PA. Never flushed either. Was going to this week until I saw this video.

[@joesanchez4895]

@@coolcanuck2570 It was a John wood

[@arviddeusenberg7450]

I just got a new A.O. Smith 40-gallon gas water heater to replace another brand water heater that lasted from 2001 to 2024 until it failed. It had never been drained---and for about half of that 23 years the water was unsoftened---but A.O. Smith, a well regarded brand, is very firm about the wisdom of annual draining. I certainly can do that myself, so given the expense of water heater replacement compared to the relatively minimal hassle and expense of draining, I'm going to drain it annually. If I discover that the drain valve stinks, I'll replace it, too. As for the sacrificial anode rod, it is hard to imagine why a person would not replace that when it fails---or, more logically, before it fails---when its purpose is to keep the tank from flaking away. If the water heater is on the point of death and replacement, maybe just forget it, but I wouldn't expect much out of a water heater with no anode in it.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

Basically, there are three main manufacturers of the gas water heater tanks in U,S , A.O Smith, Bradford White and Rheem. Most store brands are one of those three under the hood

[@frankfrank9711]

I always replace mine every 10 years (after warranty runs out) and never wait until it fails. Just like my tires. ☝🏻

[@jandbpct]

@@frankfrank9711 I have a 30 gal GE gas with a 9 year warranty. Installed it in 2002. Never drained it once and our water here in SoCal is pretty hard and chocked with minerals. Twenty two years and still running like a champ!

[@Hippy2021]

​@@jandbpctyep, mine last 15 years without any maintenance. A 30 gallon electric whirlpool water heater. No touch no flush not even wipe off dust

[@Robinhood179]

The whole reason the bottom element will burn out is the sediment which means flushing out any of that junk will prolong the life of the tank. Mine is 18 years old and still works great. Flush once a year.

[@mikej238]

I have two. One is 19 years old other is 11. Never been flushed....as recommended by my father in law. The retired plumber

[@Robinhood179]

@@mikej238 So your retired father who was a plumber recommended that you do NOT flush?

[@dwightneisler3844]

My house is 17 years old with original water heater, never been flushed.

[@Robinhood179]

9 months later and still going strong. 19 years old.

[@fuzzyelm1]

@@mikej238 it depends on what kind of eater you have , we have lots of lime so we have to flush and take out the sediments ! And anyone that tells you not to is a n idiot ! And the water pressure coming to a home is never 150 pli and it’s not going to cause a water heater to go bad ! Water heater is set to a 150 psi pop off valve ! I bet tgis old man would tell you that you can’t replace the cathode rod in a water heater too !

[@michaeldubya]

Worked as a plumbers helper in high school (mid to late 70’s), North of Houston. We did new houses, Houston was growing due to most of the big oil companies moving here. Anyway the boss was a crusty old Polish guy from New Jersey, named Louie. He would say “hot water heater”, how do you heat (insert colorful language) hot water! Ever since I call it a water heater. On a high note I learned life skills in that job. Thanks for the video.

[@louf7178]

Water heater / hot water tank. You heat hot water similar to taking heat out of cold air. - It's a relative argument, so it's not exactly wrong as the educated philosophers may maintain ☺.

[@leeclark6102]

@@louf7178 It's a COLD water heater......

[@louf7178]

@@leeclark6102 You missed the point, and I know there's no point in arguing with you. It's a circular argument since hot loses temperature. Also, it can be understood as a state and function title - hot water (state) heater (function). And, yes, "hot" water does need to be heated.

[@robertallain8966]

thats because most plumbers keep shit real . not like these safe space colored hair new plumbers we got these days , or the flip side of that is a guy who thinks he is hot shit cause he can make a turd go down hill and do it faster than others .. in the end , its just shit rolling down hill at 1/8 inch per foot , dont chew your finger nails and payday is every friday .. oh by the way fuck plumbers ! i was one off and on for over 15 years . commercial and residential new build and service side .. fuck plumbers !!

[@Johnslist]

@@leeclark6102 Like a bread toaster, not a toast toaster that you put 'toast' into...

[@myutube1960]

I drained my waterheater once, about 7 years ago, because I had read somewhere, that it would prolong the life of the waterheater. I never did it again because I didn't want to deal with it. Now I'm glad I didn't do it. Won't feel guilty anymore. 😄

[@lakeseminole]

Im 67 yrs old and still learning. However, my 38 gallon electric water heater is now 20 years old and still running. I live alone, have it set on a timer for one hour every morning. Plenty for me to shower and use the dishwasher. If fact, I can still shower the next morning with warm water! I've never flushed the unit but thinking it may be time to replace!!! Hearing these tips from you solidifies my beliefs, don't do anything! lol I know I have saved TONS OF ELECTRICITY over the 20 years by using a timer and simply having the heater turn on for one hour every day. Why keep it working 24 hours?

[@gathercreatelivewithleslie8340]

Wow, never thought of this, we have an electric hybrid and it does have a vacation mode. Interesting.

[@stanleykeith6969]

I like the Grumpy Plumber, he is a Straight shooter and tell it like it is. Over the years I learned, if its not broken don't touch it. Everything your Dad said is true.

[@lechatbotte.]

@@larryzeka5011 lol

[@PJM454]

I agree with the theory 'if it's not broken, don't touch it' sometimes but with something's a little maintenance that costs nothing really goes a long way. Plumbers who tell you not to maintain your equipment, seem to gain the most. Would you believe a mechanic if he told you not to bother doing oil changes on your car?

[@tammyf8326]

@@dave8599 there is no warranty issue to worry after it expires and the anode rod wouldn’t even need to be changed out within the first 4 or 5 years or more.anyway! I believe his explanation of the purpose of the rod is incorrect. The rods purpose is for the minerals in the water to attack the rod instead of the tank walls. If it’s changed out every 4 or 5 years or so it supposedly can double the life of the water heater. How often they need to be changed depends on the source of and type of water. There is another video tutorial on you tube that shows the removal of the sediment from the bottom of the tank using a wet vac with slender clear hose attachment to fit through the heating element port (on an electric water heater). you’ll know when it needs to be cleaned out because it sounds like rocks tumbling around and it’s annoying to hear. It’s a very helpful video to watch and learn. Also, water softeners can erode a anode rod faster because of the salt used. My dad attempted to change his anode (Arizona water with a water softening system) and found there was only a stub 1” long of the 3’ long rod left and the water heater was only 6 years old!

[@conradkentucci1113]

@@larryzeka5011 Tell us why

[@john2510]

You should apply that theory the next time you think about changing the oil in your car. Let us know how that works out for you.

[@suntzuwu]

Depends on your water quality. Also depends on whether you waited 10 years to flush it or if you have done it regularly.

[@generfeld]

exactly this- water quality is probably the biggest determining factor.......

[@scomeau66]

That is the big variable that is so important but so ignored, water quality. The same water heater in several different water-sourced locations will result in very different results.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

@@generfeld Exactly, for instance Vancouver has 17 times less of particles per gallon than Edmonton, Canada. So basically Vancouver water heater used in the same way will take 17 years to accumulate the same sediment as Edmonton one will do in 1 year. I live in Edmonton area, and my electric kettle bottom gets covered in sediment in 1/2 - 1 year to the level to start boil water noticeably slower.

[@CC-te5zf]

Flushing may well work for some applications. We’re on a well and we get allot of mineral crusting. I will continue to flush ours annually.

[@lilianshepard3783]

How do you know when it’s time to flush the water tank?

[@CC-te5zf]

@@lilianshepard3783 I just do it annually.

[@mr.mister4071]

I'm on a well also. Just replaced mine after 27 years. I think I flushed mine once and I pulled and cut off the bar then replaced the plug. No more stink. Bottom was starting to rust out. Time to replace.

[@benplummer8866]

I grew up on a farm and was on a well and lived in the same house from 5 to 35 yrs old.we dint do one thing to that water heater and always had good hot water. They just dont make things like they use to. Things today are made to break.

[@CC-te5zf]

@@benplummer8866 Amen to that. My Grandfather would be shocked at how cheaply things are made and just how much we throw away.

[@tomreid5658]

My Dad was a Union Plumber in New Jersey. We never flushed our gas water heaters. In Florida you are now lucky to get 8 years out of a 6 year Rheem tank. I know because I work part-time at home depot and hear it every day. BTW...MY PLUMBER DAD WAS GRUMPIER THAN YOURS. Love the Old School Plumber! NJ LOCAL 14

[@idadho]

The mag rod is a sacrificial anode. It redirects the electrolysis from the steel tank to the mag rod. In California, we have pressure regulators that reduce the pressure to 65 psi or so. I get 20 years or more out of my water heaters. My current 50 gallon water heater was installed in 1997. It works great and on last flush, my inspection camera showed it was clean.

[@Steven-xs8ie]

💯. You are doing it the right way

[@bee_ron]

Thank you thank you... Well done Mark

[@lisamendoza5654]

Jim, you remind me of my Dad, I lost him 15 years ago. I really appreciate your advice and knowledge. He taught me to be a DIY girl and I try to get these things done myself. You are a big help…thank you, thank you thank you!

[@dennishassler605]

Yes, I used a plumber to clean out a clog and he charged me an insane amount. You CANNOT trust plumbers - they only want to gouge customers.

[@bobb.6393]

Sorry to hear about your dad.

[@rfunk727]

I had a AO Smith electric water heater that lasted 15 years here in central Florida, never flushed it or changed the magnesium rod out.

[@louf7178]

15 years ain't shit. But if you're happy, they'll surely sell you another.

[@nonelost1]

I just bought an A.O. Smith electric water heater two years ago. It’s good to know that they last a long time without any maintenance.

[@jwall6276]

@Albo alt Just curious, where was it manufactured?

[@daveschuster2869]

We have a 35 year old A O Smith 40 gal heater here in central Florida, never flush and no rod change. Our new insurance company is making us replace it, they don’t want them older than 15 years.

[@deeguenveur9987]

@Albo alt ours lasted about 10 years, same brand. ..just installed a new one last year. Developed a leak at top of water heater

[@MrHamlet]

Flushing makes a lot of sense depending on the water quality. If you get the rotten egg smell, switch from magnesium to aluminum, OR get that new electric anode solution which works incredibly well.

[@margaretpervier8357]

So glad I watched! I’m not going to flush the water heater now. It’s been worrying the heck out of me. Thank you😊

[@kendog6667]

Thank you for the info sir, just had a new water heater put in, the plumber put a big valve on the bottom and said I needed the heater flushed every year. Cost $248.00. Will not be paying for that service now. Thanks again.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

Valves are put there by the manufacturer. I hope your plumber did not redrill the tank to put anything which is not part of the design :)

[@mj625]

@@dmitripogosian5084 most plumbers recommend removing the factory drain valve and install a larger ball valve. It makes draining/flushing a much easier process.

[@ALSomthin]

If you live in a place where there is lots of lime in the water when it builds up lime inside the bottom of a gas water heater it heats up the bottom of tank and over heats it because the lime layer acts as an insulator then the cooler water hits the hot spots and thats what makes it popping noises. 145 ° is the magic temp where lime drops out of the water.

[@OneWildTurkey]

It's safer and a lot more economical to set the temp at about 130.

[@ALSomthin]

@@OneWildTurkey It will get even hotter than that where the water in the tank gets insulated from the lime layer. So when it builds up to a certain degree what the setting is at doesnt really matter any more as far as drop out but 135° is a safer setting. Water at 125° is sufficent and even safer for children. Some areas have such a high lime content it doesnt take much to drop it out especially if you have an on demand tankless water heater but they are designed to be cleaned. In an electric waterheater the lime will build up directly on the elements and drop the lime to bottom. Then the elements will usually over heat and burn out and require change out. At that point the lime can be removed with a wet dry vacuum with a piece of pex hose ir tubing of some kind onthe end of the hose. Flushing doesnt do much except in a tankless where you have to do that with a recirulating pump kit using an acid solution to clean out the heat echanger yearly.

[@rosaamarillo2110]

We swapped out a 30yo WH in South Texas, high lime content, was 1/3 full of sediment... our 5 yo WH is popping right now..

[@wdtaut5650]

Lime will deposit just fine at room temperature, depending on local water chemistry. Heat just accelerates the rate of deposit.

[@ALSomthin]

@@wdtaut5650 yup

[@Mickey-jn8hz]

You are so lucky to have your Dad with you! What a sweet man.

[@DeanCHall]

Finally, some practical advice! I just drained my 9yr old water heater for the first time and it was pristine water coming out. Thanks, Jim.

[@mikereyes7050]

Thank God for water softeners even

[@tablet2016]

Replaced rod after 21 yrs. Totally clean inside using well water. No bad smell. Still running great after 25 yrs. Mess with it less for problem free heaters.

[@robb8235]

If u do decide to drain your water heater Turn off the water supply , reduce the pressure by opening a hot faucet … then open the valve at the bottom of the water heater. Flush… then turn water back off before closing valve on hot water tank….Those are not very good valves and opening and closing them under pressure is asking for a leak !!!

[@clivegrayston1939]

I have told people exactly the same thing but they don’t believe it. He is absolutely correct. I have been a plumber since 1967.

[@victoriacousins4501]

A you from mi?

[@clivegrayston1939]

@@victoriacousins4501 no, bc Canada.

[@phiksit]

yeah, but your lively hood depends on shit breaking :-P ie: people being lazy about doing maintenance.

[@larryzeka5011]

No disrespect but you’re wrong here and so is he. I repair water heaters, boilers etc all day long and there are issues that come from not draining and flushing your water heater.

[@stroys7061]

@@larryzeka5011 What kind of issues? I have a residential, natural gas water heater that’s about 2 years old and I’ve been considering whether to flush it or not. It operates perfectly right now. Flushing is real easy since it’s in the basement near a drain.

[@JGcynicDC2]

I had a gas water heater last me from 1982 to 2012. I flushed it regularly. I live in California. I strongly believe in flushing. It also depends on where you live. Water conditions are different depending on area.

[@simongchadwick]

Seconded. I'm on a well with about 50psi, and my gas water heater is now 27 years old and working perfectly. It gets flushed every year or so, from the lower drain valve into a garden hose. The flushed water runs brown for a minute or two, then cloudy, and then clear. It doesn't cost me anything.

[@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb]

Our water heater lasted almost 25 years with zero maintenance. As did just about everyone else's in our neighborhood. Never heard of water heaters needing to be replaced in 5 years unless you buy the cheapest pile of crap available.

[@wholeNwon]

@@ArthurDentZaphodBeeb 35 yrs for my parents. Never did anything to it.

[@ral19777]

Another California homeowner who has never flushed our water heater, going on 28 years. Zero maintenance.

[@jeffwarn4275]

I agree 💯 I also do it to my camper one every I use it and pull the plug and rod every time and put it up dry

[@fu9793]

Telling me to “go to hell if I didn’t like the video” makes me click the like button. Love this guy.🙏🏽🇺🇸

[@shelleytribett8468]

Thank you for this video!! I'm a single mom and HATE getting ripped off when completing maintenance on my home. I've started doing a lot of maintenance myself! I REALLY appreciate you sharing your advice and coming from someone doing this a long time... I trust what you're saying!! Thanks again!!

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Shelly Burrow, glad you are doing your own maintenance on your home. If you have any questions in the future, please ask and I’ll see if I can help.

[@elliottpeabody1287]

@@TheGrumpyPlumber Hey grumpy, isn't her name Shelly TRIBETT? Not Burrow?

[@fuzzyelm1]

You would get ripped off if you hired this clown ! He is a fool he doesn’t know a damn thing ! Yes it does help to flush your water heater if you live in an area with a lot of lime ! It’s easier if you have electric water heater you can vacuum out the lime buildup in the bottom ! We have tanks that have gone 30 years doing this ! Mine right now is over ten years old and it’s cleaned each year

[@stevematda976]

@@fuzzyelm1 agree 100%. After 9 years (2009 install), we had sediment that was 3 inches OVER the lower element. I flushed it in 2018, and plan to do another flush this fall after 5 years, as well as replace the anode. Two choices here...either do the regular flush and maintenance (however often it needs depending on the water) or write a check for $750-$1000 for a new water heater install. For me, I'll be happy keeping that money in my pocket.

[@stephanmacfarlane1151]

You have been fooled again

[@middleamerica646]

I love these older guys. We do well as younger lads, to listen.

[@chrisappel2322]

Bro, you saved me countless hours of dirty work. I have 4 properties, hence 4 water heaters. That makes my year knowing I don't have to waste my time, energy or cash draining water heaters. I will happily buy you a case of beer or half gallon of your choice of top shelf liquor. Thanks for the sage advice. Keep the Great content flowing!!

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

@@chrisappel2322 you need my address? Just kidding! 🤣

[@leninmi7579]

As a handyman in Michigan, when replacing the lower element I tape a 2 ft piece of garden hose to my wet dry vac and suck as much of the lime and calcium scales out of the tank as I can. It works quite well. Then the new element doesn't have to sit in the residue and lasts slot longer.

[@forgiven2812]

Len in MI So glad you mentioned vacuuming the lime out. We do this and it really makes a difference. The first time we tried it, my husband cut an old hoola-hoop and attached to wet vac hose. The hoop was stiff enough to dig into the lime and break it up. Took about 30-45 minutes but lime was thoroughly removed from bottom of tank. We have hard water and no softener, so we usually have this job to do every 10 to 12 years.

[@leninmi7579]

@@forgiven2812 Great minds think alike. Good job Dowden Crew 👍. PS. I was making so many house calls, repeat customers every year for elements burning out. I knew why, but there wasn't any way to remove the crap in the bottom of the tank. And we made a way didn't we🎉. Pay it forward, knowledge is everything.

[@johnthree1611]

Good idea, I was wondering what the easiest way to remove that lime was.

[@leninmi7579]

@@johnthree1611 It takes a while, 20 minutes or so, better than a 200 or $1200.00 bill from a plumber. Yes the hose will plug once in a while, just pull it out and break up the chunks. You'll get it.👍

[@Slithey7433]

Deterioration of a water heater depends as much on the water characteristics as anything else.

[@rexsheeley8177]

Exactly

[@milotorres6894]

Municipal water supplies are all different considering sources have tested gives you a heads-up on intervals on anode or tank replacements agree strongly good guys advice on topic of oxidation and corrosion of water heaters in home's...😔

[@rustyme1122]

Yep. Hard water WILL create sediment in the bottom of a water heater. All a water heater is is a low temp boiler after all. When I put a new water heater in I remove the junky valve in the bottom and install a stainless nipple with full port ball valve. Attach a hose to that will give you good flow when flushing. I'm in the midwest with city water which is very hard. I also have a good quality softener. When I do flush, I never really have anything bad coming out.

[@azaslavs1]

I love the plumber and his knowledge about that rod. This rod is actually has a name ANODE ROD. If you buy the 6 years warranty heater - it has only 1 ANODE ROD. 12 years - will be almost the same heater with 2 ANODE RODs. Why? Because ANODE has a 2nd part in every battery - cathode. Chemical reaction is going from cathode and anode - and anode is being destroyed by the reaction protecting cathode. In the water heater cathode is all heater and anode is that anode rod which is being destroyed by the chemical reaction and PROTECTS your cathode - heater body. So - DO NOT TRUST this guy! Change your $20 ANODE ROD every 4-6 years to protect your heater. and.. YES - it is like 27 mm socket and best is impact wrench - if this is not a hot water nipple with the rod down there. II need also to mention - this anode rod is originally like a rod 3/4" in diameter and 4' long/ In 5 years it all almost gone... Where is it going to? It is going to that sediment that you MUST to flush. If you did not flush for a long time - YES it may clog you faucet down there. This is going to be a fun part - you have to use a piece if hard wire to push that clog thru the open faucet and have a fun with the hot water on your hands. After the 1st time fun - you will not forget to do it next year. 2 more thing about the water pressure. HE IS RIGHT. YOU HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION TO THAT and not only because of the water heater but ALSO not metal piping like to dishwasher, refrigerator and washer. 1st - I have a water valve upfront of my house with 55 psi set and I am checking it often 2nd - I have a water expansion tank that protects from pressure building up inside the house due to the hot water expansion in the water heater.

[@yosefmacgruber1920]

@@azaslavs1 I use only hot water for my bath. And for washing dishes. I use 0% cold water. And I do not bother to use hot water for hand washing, because that only wastes hot water and I do not want to wait for the hot water to arrive. If cold water needs to be mixed, then the water heater thermostat is probably set too high. At least on a gas water heater, the temperature setting is is rather easy to adjust. Do I have a rod? My Dad who knew how to do these things, replaced my water heater sometime around 2 decades ago. So that means my "new" water heater is fairly old by now. I do not flush, because I just am not that handy, and I do not want to mess with what I do not so well understand. I would be afraid that the water faucet won't turn off again, and whoever shows us how to do our home maintenance?

[@RayleighCriterion]

I put a 5 micron particulate filter on my cold water line and have never had to flush my 21 year old water heater, I just replace the filters every so often.

[@gabrielbruzzi1962]

if you have a gas one, that works perfect, great idea. Mine is electric and the element corrodes inside over time and it breaks apart losing metal, so that would need to be flushed and replaced, but still a great idea to add a filter inline on the cold as it may really help on either type system. Our friends just added a WHOLE HOUSE filter and that would be the most expensive way but best for everything in the house that has water like the toilets, faucets, showers, drinking water, Fridge ice, etc., especially if your water is hard (more minerals in it). Thanks for that nugget!

[@lastmanstanding2622]

Does a 5micron filter remove the minerals in the water? I have hard water from a well.

[@Ode2Pops]

I live in South TX. I put a straight ball drain valve on our (gas) water heater when it was installed. I've flushed it every 6 months or so since it was new - just opened the drain valve and let 'er rip for about 10 or 15 minutes, then close the valve. No fuss, no muss. It's on its third anode rod. Perhaps I've been wasting my money and time, but our water heater is now 20 years old and is working just fine.

[@frankdeleon9293]

My water heater is over 45 years old and still going strong. I've flushed and cleaned it out 3 times since I've live in this house.

[@phillyfathead]

I just found and subscribed to your channel, I love “dad “ he is allowed to b grumpy, he has see it all and tells it like he see it!!!!

[@zardoz2627]

I wasn't gonna like the video until he said 'if you didn't like it go to hell'. Liked.

[@dondeyoung6456]

I agree that hell comment just proves dad is ignorant.

[@vernroach3413]

Funny and informative...A great combination...Thanks for doing this...I do HVAC and have told people when they ask about flushing a water heater , Don't....Usually it creates a leak at the drain valve and they will need to cap it...I feel better knowing there is better reason and will share it...Again, thank you guys.

[@dj5752]

What's you feeling about changing the anode rod? Thanks for the video.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

Just take it out and look at it, If it is eaten through, good to replace it. It is cheap, but a bit hard to take out. You need 1-1/16 inch socket and good leverage or impact driver. I did it with probably 1.5 foot socket driver, but one needs to be careful not to move the tank. People say impact driver is more straightforward.

[@MRantzWI]

I know I might be risking the retribution from the Grumpy Plumber, but here goes anyways. RE: The Anode rod (another name you will here which means the same things as the "Magnesium Rod" Grumpy refers to), which is usually made out of magnesium (there are different kinds) can, IMO, extend the life of your water heater and may be well worth the effort to replace it after a year or so. Grumpy Plumber had said that the rod is supposed to flake off and then fill in the small holes that start to form on the inside of the tank, which is basically rust spots that start to form and eat through the tank wall. In reality, the rods are in the water heater to attract all the minerals, etc. in the water that would normally start attacking the tank walls. Instead, they attack the magnesium and eat away at the rod (often referred to as "sacrificial rods" for obvious reasons). 2 things. If you have a water softener - water heaters and water softeners do not play well together. The soft water that goes into the water heater accelerates the "rusting" process by 2 or 3 times. The harder the water you have (with or without a water heater) - the faster your anode rod is going to get eaten up. Once it's gone, and if you don't check it and replace it, then that means your water heater is going to go BUST on you a lot quicker, and even must faster if you soften your water. So by paying attention to the condition of the anode rod, and replacing it say every 2 years or so, you're going to get much longer life out of your water heater AND you'll keep getting the "soft water" you expect with you water softener. The anode rods are not that expensive. I just replaced mine in my 40 GAL electric water heater, and it cost me a little under $20 Bucks ! Grumpy Plumber is right, they are a bi*ch to remove. You're going to need a socket (most likely a 15/16" socket, about a 4 or 5 foot pipe and a friend to hold the tank and prevent it from moving on you. The pipe IS NOT OPTIONAL, you'll never get it freed up without it. There is another replacement option, not one that I think it worth it, but they have anode rods that are electric, so basically they use an electric current (small) to do the attracting of minerals, etc. These are not sacrificial, but you should pull them every year or so and clean them because they will build up scaling, etc. These are EXPENSIVE - figure about $150 and it's a split on whether or not they are worth it. I have pretty hard water, and in a little under 2 years, my anode rod needed to be replaced. The rule of thumb is to replace the rod when about 2/3 of the rod is gone. So, $20 bucks every 2 years, might get me an extra 6 or 7 years out of the water heater... probably worth it. I hope Grumpy Plumber kind of agrees!! Hope this helps someone!!!

[@Sankeyite]

The resolution is worth it.... you are correct in your answer and the grumpy plumber is just that a grumpy plumber cutting corners to "save money" I would NEVER take advice from the grumpy corner cutter....other people shouldn't either after this video...

[@rjo49]

Thanks, I was wondering if I would have to chime in. I burst out laughing when he said the magnesium would "plug holes".

[@stevenringer9286]

yes the mag. rods are meant to be sacrificial rods to protect tank deterioation. the longer warantee water heaters usually have a second rod tube for the cold water intake in the old days. i am not sure they do that anymore. I ran across a copper water heater in the 80's that was 30-40 years old.

[@chrish7336]

@@rjo49 What he explained is kind of the same thing though not Scientifically accurate. When looking inside the water heater what he sees is the effect of the Magnesium Rod. It is protecting the insides of the tank and deteriorating. He just sees it from a different angle and not using the Science. No different than those in Electronics potentially learning 2 different methods of Electron Flow (positive or negative). They both get the job right but only one side is commonly used and taught scientifically.

[@johnwagner8465]

What about using a impact tool...to remove the nut to get the rod...that might work...if you have to use a 4 ft. Pipe..that's really in there..and why is it in there that tight...?well love all the comments...

[@randyragon]

Built our house summer of '95. Hard well water, no softener. PSI of 38 to 50. Still on original natural gas water heater. Did the once a year flush the first 5 years and nothing since. It is right next to the sump hole in the basement, so not worried about damage when it finally goes. But maybe I'll get another 25 years out of it. It was expensive and top of the line when I picked it out originally. Probably can't find as good a replacement when one is needed.

[@henryrollins9177]

Removing the sediment at the botton could slightly improve heating efficiency...but thats it.

[@SophieBird07]

So glad to see your video! I’ve been feeling guilty about not doing this ever since I moved in ten years ago, lol. Procrastination paid off!

[@hesseldijkstra5327]

Same here.

[@ericmccracken2287]

When replacing a heating element, do you first open a faucet to remove the hot water? Thanks for the advice. I flooded our basement once by trying drain from the bottom.

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

When you need to drain your water heater to repair it, you need to either attach a hose to the valve on the bottom of the heater or attach a pump to the bottom of the heater. Then you open a hot water valve to let air in so water will drain out of the heater. Opening the faucet only releases the pressure on the heater.

[@jaimefc1107]

Respect his experience and knowledge. I live in the southwest. You can't imagine how hard our water is. I have drained our electric water heater. The calcium had built up so much that the lower element was deep in the sediment. Had corroded the element and needed replacement. Since I had to replace the element, took advantage and vacuumed out about five inches of calcium. Worked well and extended the life of the heater. Ours lasted 15 years.

[@mikewithers299]

Same here in south Florida. Calcium and sediment have been in most heaters I've replaced

[@flagmichael]

Same in Phoenix.

[@KnightsofChristendom]

How did you manage to vacuum it out? I think I have the same problem. Tested the lower element and it’s gone. My heater is only three years old.

[@jaimefc1107]

@@KnightsofChristendom Basically drain of course. Remove bottom element or what's left. Get a shop vac and you'll have mend a smaller hose that will fit through the bottom element opening. Had to rig a sturdy gauge steel wire to use as a pick. I had at least most of the element covered in sediment and pretty much shot. Replace element . Just tedious. But you'll reap fast results as you are not heating the buildup your tank fills correctly. Normally, I can tell the tank has buildup by the hot water may not last as it normally does. Extends your heater's life.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

@@jaimefc1107 I have that reduction in the amount of hot water with the gas heater. I wonder if sediment is also to blame

[@amerlin388]

Electric American Supreme water heater is 20 years old, no flush, no anode rod replacement. Just starting to 'sweat'; I assume it's from pin hole leaks. Will replace soon. Even with that duration, here's what I would (probably will) do... Before installing, replace plastic drain valve with a brass high flow ball valve. Mark install date on the water heater. Every 2 years flush the grit out - Turn off electric supply. Turn off cold water supply. Open a hot water valve at a sink to avoid stressing the plumbing with negative pressure. Begin draining (presumably with an old hose attached). Once initial grit is flushed out (or is greatly reduced), open and close the cold water supply valve several times to stir up and flush some more. You know the rest. I think most newer water heaters have the cold water supply tube curved near the bottom so water swirls around the bottom to disturb the sediment. If the valve clogs you may have to remove the hose and clear the valve (water supply off or you'll get a surprise. I recommend jabbing with a length of string trimmer line. If the hose is clogged you may need another hose, or drain into a container. During the 2nd flush (year 4) inspect the anode rode for possible replacement. Depending on condition, either replace the rod or determine when you should next inspect it.

[@ALT3REDB3AST]

I think it depends on your water characteristics. If you live in a hard water area (WV), flushing is probably a good idea at least once a year. It's easy to do, so why not?

[@robertm2663]

Exactly, this plumber is probably familiar with city water. We have high mineral well water.

[@mr.ramjangles5165]

I live in WV, too. If I don’t drain it, the calcium buildup ruins the bottom element. I could gravel my driveway with the mineral buildup! 😂😂😂

[@johnsvideo3403]

I agree. He really should emphasized more that this is true for situations of a particular water type. I use well water. It can/is very acidic. Flushing and changing that rod has increased the amount of time my water heater last. Something I learned awhile back that surprised me. Make sure you tank is grounded. Check your house ground rods for those who are not connected to city water especially (or if you have switched over to PEX). My ground rods had essentially disappeared with time, they only last about ten years. What was happening is the big old hot water tank was 'acting' like the house ground and it was ruining the tank. The other thing, I guess where he lives they don't have oil hot water heaters. Propane sucks for heating water and electricity is expensive so oil works and it works very well. The best home upgrade I ever did was get rid of that propane hot water heater. Its probably closer to the gas heater on how it makes hot water but much hotters. s Besides the occasional flush I also have replaced those rods. They also disappear over time. They don't last forever. He does have nice hair and its nice he does this with his son. :) The first part he said about the valve is very true. Those little valves are garbage. Also doing this task is easy since I have a sump to pour it into, bout the only thing good about having a sump pump.

[@civilengineer2024]

Because even if you have a full port drain, the sediment is usually too chunky to flow out. If you have electric, you gotta remove the lower element and shop vac it out if you actually want to clean anything.

[@taroman7100]

Sooo glad I found you. Im selling my house and thought Id drain the tank for the new owners. Thank you so much for the great advice!

[@Rocscrawler]

Boy, you guys just saved me a lot of time and probably some money. We just moved into a year old house and was about to flush our electric water heater. TANKS!!!!!

[@bobboscarato1313]

I have an 80 ga. electric water heater and flushed it the first year and replaced the lower element as it was damaged (open circuit). It's about 25 years old and still works. Most amazing thing it's the present cost of those heaters like it was gold-plated. This one had good insulation all around.-

[@granjmy]

Man, I appreciate professionals like your Dad who share this information freely like this so much! Thank you!

[@blairleavell3501]

I’m a bit confused about removing anode bar and not replacing it. Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of having the bar dissipate the corrosion from eating the tank? Also, aluminum bars get rid of sulfur smell

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Then why do I see all these warranty water heaters returned because they were leaking? If you want to replace the anode rod, go right ahead.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

My water heater in VA is at least 11 years old. Only flushed once. The previous water heater started to leak after more than 25 years.

[@zymurgyolloso6050]

I have the 34 year old original water heater in my garage that came with the house new, never drained/flushed! Works great!

[@LouieXI0I]

THE SAME HERE , 1985 AO SMITH !

[@robertthomas5906]

@@LouieXI0I You guys know you're calling the gremlins to your water heater, right? Look guys, we missed two! Let's break 'em!!! woo hoo. Now you have water everywhere.

[@LouieXI0I]

@@robertthomas5906 ABSOLUTELY, I'M RESEARCHING WHAT BRAND TO BUY, TO DO AN R&R NEXT WEEK.

[@jerryrojas6198]

Water heaters life span nowadays 5-7 years. Unless you replace the anode rod, then you’ll get your money’s worth.

[@jerryrojas6198]

@@LouieXI0I A.O.Smith.

[@gisleyber2s]

Thanks a lot for this post. It's comforting for me, because I have NEVER drained my water heater. Now I can stop worrying.

[@Luckmorne]

Ramblings from a grumpy power plant engineer: The magnesium rod preferentially corrodes instead of the steel tank. They do the same thing with metal ship hulls in the ocean. It does work very effectively, but they eventually dissolve away and soon after the tank fails (they are designed to be a size that's very well understood, the tank with longer warranties? They have bigger magnesium rods) If you can, replacing from time to time is not a bad idea. The rotten eggs smell is from hydrogen-sulfide gas produced by iron-eating bacteria that can live in your well water or pipes. It has nothing to do with the water heater. The water heater being set >120F kills it all, but the gas is still in solution from the well. Hot water can't hold as much gas as cold, so you notice it more in your hot water because it moves along the pipes from the heater with the water and comes out immediately once it leaves the faucet or shower head. Where we do agree is that draining the heater is pretty pointless. Especially electric ones. The sediment that forms is far too large and coarse to "flush out" the tiny drains they put on the tank. Think, broken shells at the edge of the shore line and you've got a pretty good idea what hard water deposits look like. They form more in electrics because the elements cause local boiling (and swell when hot) and then when they cool they shrink again and all the deposits the just formed break off and sink to the bottom. My previous experience with an electric on very hard well water was it made about 5-gallons of crushed shell like deposits every 4-5 years... it also tended to wear out the heating elements faster due to the hard water. So I'd replace them, and while the hole was open, i'd stick in a bendy fitting on the shop vac and suck out the broken up deposits. I also agree messing with your pressure relief valve is not worth the trouble. They do work, but they are cheap and cycling it is not going to do you any favors.

[@imaBABYru12]

This is freaking PERFECT. Now KZbin is going to think that I'm into PLUMBING or something. That's all.

[@rudy1197]

I've had the same stainless steel water heater for 22 years, from Sears. I used to drain it every couple of years and never saw much come out. It does not have or need a anode rod but for some reason they used the cheapest crap plastic drain valve that failed and started to leak. Had it replaced with a brass ball valve. Hopefully it will last forever.

[@dmitripogosian5084]

I have 17 year old Sears heater. Came with brass valve. Sear Kenmore water heaters were made by Rheem, as far as I know.

[@hap1n355]

Great video. Just a quick comment. I live in California and most homes have a water pressure regulator that reduces the 120psi (street pressure) to the water heater. Second - I replace the water valve in my water heater with a brace valve and remove water from the the water heater to wash my truck and usually on the 5th time I do it I get brown rust sediment. I had this Water heater for 15 years and I change my anode rod about 7 years ago which only cost me 15 dollars. My goal is to reduce carbon foot print.

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Using the water from the bottom of the heater can cause the temperature pressure valve to blow off because the water on the bottom of the heater is cold and water at the top gets real hot from the burner being on. The brown sentiment is from the rod dissolving. Keep your truck clean.

[@stephenstidham714]

Save the whales!

[@imschgo2]

What are your thoughts on a regular water heater compared to a tankless water heater?

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

The tankless heater is the way to go! Two thumbs up! 👍👍

[@dkhnova]

The sediment at the bottom of the tank depends a lot on the mineral content of the water in your area. I've drained my water heater in Virginia and only clear water came out. But in New Mexico, when I drained the water heater, a pound or more of what looked like sand came out. I think that an accumulation of mineral deposits like that at the bottom of the tank would be bad for the heating element.

[@wolfmantroy6601]

Your well could be pumping a little sand. The water heater tank would act as a settling bowl.

[@dkhnova]

@@wolfmantroy6601 I'm sure you're right about sand getting pumped out of wells, but my house in New Mexico was in a city served by a municipal water system. Maybe it was sand in the system? Or maybe mineral content in the water was forming crystals? Anyway it seems to me that in some parts of the world water heaters do accumulate sediment and it's probably a good idea to flush it out but in other areas there's hardly any sediment.

[@clifffowler2581]

@@dkhnova stay with what your knowledge tell you mate, because you are right.......Different waters have different minerals that attack metals within the unit, that's why there are sacrificial anodes, (boats use them also under the waterline) that dissolve first, which creates sediment in the bottom of the tank which must be flushed to avoid rusting and destruction. Side note :......sacrificial anodes should be replaced when needed according to manufacturers specifications. That old man annoyed me a little with his wisdom...😑

[@dkhnova]

@@clifffowler2581 👍. I've changed the sacrificial anode rod every 5 years and my water heater is now 9 years past its warranty period. That's definitely saved me some money.

[@clifffowler2581]

@@dkhnova spot on mate well done 👍 🙂 $50 and 30 minutes, (replacement and flush) is a hell of a lot smarter than no hot water and a $1500 bill......oh and you probably know this too. Maintenance that I've read and performed, stated by the manufacturer's, suggest opening the relief valves around twice a year to avoid them seizing up.... I'm sure those two are just crooked plumbers creating future customers for themselves.....😡 Keep up the maintenance on all your gear/tools Sir for hassle free usage..... like I'm sure you do 👍☺️

[@MrCatman6]

Thank you, good advice; About 10 years ago I attempted to flush the water heater as we are on a well and had a lot of sediment. I opened the drain and could not get a drop out. I tried running a rod into it but no joy. I eventually just gave up but have been expecting trouble since then but its still working fine.

[@smf2072]

🤦

[@dmitripogosian5084]

I guess your sediment filled above the drain hole - did you feel it with a rod ?

[@brucedoxey5815]

If you have 150 psi in your water system, you need a pressure regulator so you can reduce it to 45 psi.

[@oneselmo]

Bruce Doxey My plumbing code requires me to have a prv set to 60 psi. (PressureReducingValve) equipped with a stop/check valve to prevent any back flow. I inspect the inlet screen every few years, and the only time it's been dirty is when the water main has been opened to do work/new hookups on it.

[@jo2lovid]

Grumpy Pb is full of sh!t. Pressure reduction valve regulator on the inbound reduces his '150 psi' supply. A pressure relief trips itself everytime the tank heats (water expands as it heats). If it leaks when you manually trigger it, it will also leak when the tank heats up. Sacrificial Anode protects the copper fittings, and the "glass" lining. The crap lying in the bottom of the tank speeds up corrosion, but so does chlorine in the water supply. Frankly, anyone whose tank only lasts 5 years needs a better plumber.

[@brustertootwopointo4644]

150 psi?? not a single water appliance in your house would last long like that! definitely get a pressure valve!

[@Bowlingpba]

No utility would send 150 PSI water to a residential neighborhood. Average Is 75 to 80 PSI

[@eb6195]

Homes in our neighborhood have a pressure regulator on the main right after the meter. Takes pressure down to around 60 psi. When it goes out, pressure shoots up to 120 psi.

[@joearida5608]

Thanks a bunch. I live on the east coast and have a 10-year-old electric water heater. I was seriously thinking of draining it and now I won't. I appreciate your knowledge.

[@stanleystanley8315]

The Mg rod is a sacrificial anode. It is there to corrode before the other metals. Flushing here in Fl does work and if you cycle the water into the water heater it will breakup most of the material inside of the water heater. I personally have flushed visible sand and sediment out of the water heaters in my rentals.

[@brokenarrowez]

I'm a 72 yo home repair contractor. Your dad is my kind of person. Tell like it is. I have on my table 2 Bud Lights. One for me and the other in honor of your dad. Great video. I wish I had my dad.

[@lesdickinson3785]

I've been a plumber for 30 years and I think it's very important to flush the hot water heater especially gas that sediment sits on the bottom of the heater which acts like a insulator therefore the gas water heater doesn't work as efficient and believe me the ones I have drained or flushed a lot of crap comes out of them

[@scomeau66]

It is called a water heater, not a hot water heater. Why would anyone want something to heat hot water? Add a water softener and a water filter the sediment will no longer be an issue.

[@frankhoward3120]

@@scomeau66 soft water does nothing for the water heater except speeds up process of destroying it saltwater is not good for the water heater and when the soft water pops you get these beads through out the whole house and in every fixture. water softeners no good now get a water treatment system is a lot better

[@scomeau66]

​@@frankhoward3120 First of all you clearly have no idea what is inside a water softener. If you have ever opened one you would know that there is no possibility of beads or more appropriately resin, breaking out and circulating through the pipes. Someone would have had to purposely damage the secondary screen after somehow screwing up the resin bed strainer. After that, the beads which resemble glass would have to somehow float through over two feet of water. Marbles don't float upwards through water neither would the resin beads inside a water softener. You are making an unrealistic claim to impose an unrealistic fear. Do you have any clue what water treatment is? I guess not. Fundamentally water treatment is filtration. And the more filtered the more pure your water is. The first step is physical filtration with a mesh or fabric then series of ever reducing sized aggregate called a media filter. Then a water softener to remove minerals that would otherwise quickly clog up your next step, a carbon filter. The water softener primarily removes Calcium and Magnesium however it is fundamentally a filter, a water treatment filter. Then an Activated Carbon (AC) filter which removes so very much. Like Organic chemicals, Pesticides, chloroform, VOC’s Solvents, Industrial cleaners and most importantly Chlorine. Without a water softener, your Carbon filter will capture the Calcium and Magnesium. it will also foul up pretty quickly. The removal of chorine with the AC is important to protect the Reverse Osmosis membrane. A quality RO membrane that resembles spaghetti, not one of the Thin Film Composite versions. Now you will have very clean water. To go further would be to de-ionize the water with an EDI system and purge it with Ozone. At that point it would be USP water suitable for pharmaceutical manufacturing. An Ozone destruct unit would be installed before any use point. With fewer than 100 cfu, an a TOC of less than 500 and conductivity of 1.3 TS. (For reference drinking water has a specification of only less than 500 CFU.) This cleaned water is good for Pharma but still dirty as it would have bacterial endotoxins. There is no criteria for the number of endotoxins allowed in drinking water. To remove endotoxins you need to take your pharma water (USP Water) and distill it. Then you get Water For Injection or WFI’y water. Which is what is in your vaccine injection. This is very clean water but still dirty for one last industry which would be microprocessors. They require ultra-pure water 18.2 meg. ohm. Water so clean that it goes bad when exposed to air. It absorbs CO2 which destroys/contaminates the water and lowers its resistivity. If you were to drink ultra-pure water it would suck minerals (electrolytes) out of your organs. That is what water treatment is. Some, all, or parts, water treatment removes contaminates. Back to the water softener, you know the thing that removes contaminants like calcium and magnesium. Your sad argument (yes truly sad) doesn’t hold water. While what you are saying makes perfect sense in that soft water is bad for a water heater. It is like saying the Fifth nuclear bomb will hurt. The hard water is worse for your water heater and your household fixtures. It is a frivolous argument because the minerals that a water softener removes are far more damaging than the softened water. I get ten-plus years out of every tank-style water heater. Well over 100 water heaters with no maintenance whatsoever. Some with water softeners some without. If a water softener was as bad as you think, the resolution would be to simply spend $40 to replace the anode rod every so often. While I find all water heater services to have diminishing returns. If you are worried about a water softener's adverse effects on your water heater, then $40 is certainly a very small price to pay to counter those effects that come with the benefits of softened water which are lower scale buildup inside your water heater and the reduced scale build up on your household fixtures. Softened water is better for your skin and your hair and for washing your clothes. Yes, my friend without a water softener there are numerous drawbacks in addition to the increase of scale in your entire water system. Which requires far more effort to remove than it would to replace the $40 anode. (By the way, for some odd reason, all of my anodes have lasted the full life of the water heater. So, even the basic claim that soft water is bad for water heaters appears to have been considered by the manufacturers and the anode rods are properly sized to counteract the small negative effects of softened water, negating your claim of damage, ultimately making your comments to be that of unrealistic fear.) Not to mention the water softener incidentally removes sediment which would otherwise compromise your water heater (creating an insulating mass on the bottom of your tank as well as your entire plumbing system.) In either case, the cost of servicing a water heater far exceeds any benefits as they are specified to last 10 years. They meet that specification easily without any service. And when it fails after its expected lifespan are you really going to be surprised that it didn’t last longer than the manufacturer specified it would? By pure physical action, the water softener removes particulates that would otherwise settle in your water heater. Sediment which can never be fully flushed without significant effort. Obviously, it degrades the efficiency and lifespan of a water heater. Fundamentally anyone installing a water softener should be bright enough to install a water filter before it to remove the entrained sediment. With that being said, the water you consume should be full of minerals. When installing a water softener a knowledgeable person will run a separate line of hard water to the kitchen sink.

[@JG-tt4sz]

​@@frankhoward3120 Whoa, you really got schooled hard.

[@robertjohns5153]

@@frankhoward3120 Water softeners do not produce salt water. The brine is used to clean the resin bed which is then flushed out, removing the brine.

[@roguea987]

I just replaced my gas water heater, the one in the house was a GE 6-year heater from 2005. I'll say this, the anode rod is important to replace if it is heavily deteriorated; because that is the sacrificial component to help prevent corrosion on other components not to fill cracks. Just like the on boats and ships, when you have tow types of metal interacting with an electrolyte (water in this case) it will act like a battery and the electrons from the weakest bonding metal will leech off and attach to the other metal. They use magnesium to shed the electrons to keep the steel tank from shedding electrons. As they electrons are shed, tiny pieces of the material a removed with them, a process called electrolysis. Ask the US Navy about the USS Independence, they excluded the Cathodic Protection System (a system to prevent electrolysis between the aluminum hull and the steel prop shafts). The result that the ship began to disintegrate. The hull was literally being dissolved one atom at a time.

[@nskmda]

@ last some more or less scientific (since coming from real life experiment) observation. I don't think 'not replacing the anode rod' advice is absolutely correct. Neither is the 'don't touch the tpr valve' advice. None of the advices he gave (nothing personal, i do respect the opinion) is *absolutely* correct. Simply, because there's not such thing as *absolute* truth. :) It *always* depends. Type of a heater (electric vs gas), model of the heater (they are *all* different), type of the rod, age of the heater, age of the system, kind of water (hard vs soft). Even temperature in the heater room. *All* those factors should be taken into consideration. Plus, there's no such thing as 'abstract spherical flushing in vacuum'. What about stirring up the sediment during flushing briefly opening the intake valve? And what's most important? Actual, real life-based scientific research. If there are statistical results we would talk. This 'small talk' is based *only* on one person's observations. That's not statistics... Btw... I was *re-e-e-e-e-e-ally* surprised to hear about CA's 150 psi in water heaters... Like, their building codes (yeah, CA is not a single molecule, it's *a lot* of localities w/their own codes) don't even consider using pressure reducing valves on the incoming main line? Would be real bizarre.

[@adolphousfonville880]

When filling the tank after replacing the element should the pressure release valve be opened or closed???

[@kj9219]

We had an old hotpoint water heater that was probably close to 40 yrs. old before it was replaced..

[@chrishess7443]

The water heater that came with our 1981 mobile home finally failed in 2015. Btw it's been in same spot and on same well since 81.

[@CoolRaul]

I live in a high calcium area. Plus my plus my rod was not magnesium to begin with therefore there there were aluminum oxide Build-up from the aluminum rod. What I did was change the valve to a big 3/4 inch valve so that when it flushes it really flushes. Next I changed the rod to a magnesium rod so no more aluminum oxide build-up. My heater is now 10 years old with no popping, and no sentiment build-up… also also there is no smell.. And it works like a charm it's like a charm with lots of life lefthe life left. Just changed the valve, comma put in a rod That is conducive to your area.. And flush it twice a year. You you extend the life tremendously

[@kenfarley957]

I'm in Fl. My electric water heater is 27 yrs old and still works great.

[@macman9689]

you beat me....mine lasted 26

[@TheFalconJetDriver]

Why do you heat hot water? I have a Cold water heater!🤣🛫

[@kenfarley957]

@@TheFalconJetDriver Fixed :)

[@tombryant52jumpscoach]

I installed a 40-gallon gas water heater in my house in 2004. Every so often, I clean the spider webs off of it and dust its horizontal surfaces a bit. That's the only maintenance I have ever done, and it's still working pretty well-knock on wood. Liked and subbed

[@beboboymann3823]

Drain heater, wrench out the drain spigot.......straighten a wire coat hanger and bend a 90 on one end......insert the 90 thru the removed spigot hole and pull sediment towards the spigot hole. Busting up the settled sediment will allow it to flow out when you install the spigot and drain hose and turn the water back on.

[@CycOp]

If you remove the factory flimsy plastic spigot, might as well put on a ball valve, which will not restrict and be plugged up like the factory spigot (which has a tiny opening). This will make yearly draining much easier.

[@H2OMANLV]

When installing a new heater, install a full port 3/4" ball valve in place of that plastic valve or that wimpy drain valve at the bottom. Then when you FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS you can connect an adapter and a hose to it, LEAVE THE WATER ON, and power flush that heater for 5 minutes. You'll be amazed as all my customers are at how much sediment comes out.

[@dcr00k]

I had no frickin idea Jeff Bridges knew so much about water heaters.

[@latenightlosers420]

He's not the dude 🤦‍♂️ there's only one dude 😂

[@lastmanstanding2622]

Spot on! That was a good one Dave! LOL.

[@dennislock9019]

😆

[@sarahdurrett1205]

He won't stand for aggression, man.... ;)

[@pappysproductions]

or that Paul Rudd is good son!

[@tomsanders9491]

Magnesium rods are removed during install (s.o.p. in Northern Illinois). Rotten egg smell is caused by dissolved sulphur

[@davem145mxr]

In Florida we use Aluminum anode that prevents the smell second this guy is full of crap no house in America has 150 psi water pressure codes don’t allow more than 80psi

[@heknows5418]

David Miller mine had 110 psi. That's why I installed a pressure valve

[@MrJamespeyton]

Most houses have water pressure regulators set at about 55 psi. Also if you also have a whole house water filter, you can eliminate most of the sediment that enters home from street repairs, plus a good carbon filter will also help to eliminate high chlorine levels in your water supply.

[@eleventy-seven]

55psi? My 75 PSI, commercial copper lines and drilled Speakman Shower heads allow for 3 minute showers.🤔

[@PapaPugs]

Anyone that has 150lb water pressure needs to install a pressure reduction valve and gauge on their water main. Adjust it down to 50lb and your water heater and faucets will last a whole lot longer. Side benefit is you can shut the water main valve and watch the gauge. If the gauge doesn't drop you know you have no leaks in the house without having to run around looking. (dripping faucets, running toilets, etc) If you don't know what your water pressure is, you can go to a plumbing supply store and purchase a valve you can thread onto a hose bib and get a reading.

[@jeffreyplumber1975]

you can also look at water meter to check for leaks

[@PapaPugs]

@@jeffreyplumber1975 True, but it won't tell me what floor its on like the pressure gauge will.

[@robertm8221]

I've been a plumber for twenty some years and changed hundreds of water heaters and this is my take on this issue. I agree, changing the water is not necessary but keeping the temperature in medium or A (Not B. C or very hot mark) will slow the formation of sediments on the bottom of the tank and it will extend the life for at least three to five more years. When a water heater tank is exposed to high temperature for a long time the bottom creates more sediment from rust, due to the constant high heat, causing to shorten the life of the unit. My gas water heater is 18 years old and the key is, to keep the inside water not too hot.. having the heater at the highest setting will waste energy and like I said, shorten the life of the heater. Try it you'll see...

[@excavatoree]

@stolenelection Yes. I live in an area with very hard water. When my water heater failed (from a bad plastic control - sprayed water everywhere) it was 1/3 full of mineral deposits - sort of a gel substance. I knew something was wrong when I turned off the water and opened the drain, and the water trickled out. It was only 8 years old. Keep in mind the water in my area has a lot of calcium and/or magnesium in it, and it will leave spots on my sink if I don't wipe them up. (have to use acid, too. The are stubborn) I'm guessing my water is pretty bad, but the water tastes great. (the county buys it from a water supplier who also sells bottled water)

[@bloodybones63]

I do that. My heater is 32 years old.

[@TK-if3ks]

@@excavatoree I live in New Jersey. The water here has lots of calcium. I set the water temperature in medium (never too hot as it costs more & I don't need such hot boiling water). I replaced my water heater last year. Should I still flush the water from the water heater just because water in my area has lots of calcium?

[@excavatoree]

@@TK-if3ks I would. The plumber in this video disagrees. My justification is cost/benefit analysis. It costs almost nothing to drain it, and MIGHT make it last longer. If I'm wrong, I'm out a few minutes a year. If I'm right, I've saved money by prolonging the life of my water heater. My water heater I didn't drain lasted 8 years before it was 1/3 full of mineral deposits. It was so bad when I opened the valve to drain it (to stop the leak) it just trickled out. How anyone can say that I shouldn't have drained those before they became so bad to impede flow is beyond me. Maybe for most people draining is unnecessary, but with very hard water, I will have to have better evidence for not draining that someone saying "don't drain it. You don't need to."

[@samhanna3106]

@@TK-if3ks the problem is like he said that the calcium clogs up the drain ,which it does in my experience. Usually the only way you can clean it out is with a vacuum if it is electric through the element bung. The only time you do that is when there's a problem.

[@robertglover8819]

I was told a long time ago by a plumber not to set the water temperature too high. He said it's not necessary and will prolong the life of the water heater. I set it lower and my gas water heater is now 21 years old. I'm in California and the water heater was installed by the builder of my subdivision in 2001.

[@johnqcitizen3339]

Thank You, we have a tankless water heater, just cleaned the inline filter and ignitor, the kitchen sink has good pressure on cold and about a little less than half on hot, both the kitchen faucet and water heater are only a few years old, , any ideas ? its a small house, the only other hot water sources are the bath sink and shower, they seem to be working fine, only the kitchen sink has problem, Thank You

[@franceshurley3168]

Our water system runs brown mud every few months. We have to flush or water heaters get ruined. Water system used substandard pipe yr ago that burst and leak. They're changing but will take yrs to get all replaced. Situations different depending where you live, minerals in water and your water company.

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Sorry you are having that problem. I bet it is ruining your faucets too.

[@mikewithers299]

A good filter at the main pipe should get out most of that sediment before it gets inside to the heater and faucets

[@joeverna5459]

Grew up with 6 siblings. My dad and I would vacuum out the bottom of the electric HW heater every other year. It lasted for 17 years. We were on well water that was very hard.

[@danjackson2987]

I’m finally free from the guilt of not flushing my water heater!!!!! Thank you!!!!

[@DannyDirtyDrawz]

You're assuming he's correct

[@mikejohn0088]

Ya, and I thought I was just lazy but now I know I am pretty damn smart.

[@gtmark1239]

I have had to replace an electric hot water heater in a second floor condo we remodeled back in 1997. It would not drain and we had to muscle it on a hand truck down to the street where we just then tipped it top side down. Is there a way to break up the sediment so the tank will drain without making a mess? And would you recommend changing out the drain valve to something like an outdoor spigot on a new one? A ball valve perhaps?

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Install a 3/4” full port ball valve and once drained, clean by removing the lower element. Once cleaned, install a sand hog element. They are heavy duty electric elements.

[@charliehustle544]

Why would a manufacturer install "an expensive" rod (sacrificial anode) that does nothing but make the water smell bad? It is not to flake off and plug holes. It is to corrode (sacrifice itself) before the other metallic surfaces corrode. To flush a tank, the sediment must be stirred up into a solution and pumped out using a pump pick-up inserted through the hole where the anode was. The idea is to drain the tank, insert the pump pick up near the bottom, then activate the pump while introducing new water at a rate such that the water lever stays constant until all the sediment is washed out.

[@apples2abstracts601]

Thank you.

[@GF-pc5bt]

Charlie that is the difference in a plumber answering that question rather than a gas technician...

[@CycOp]

I switched the inlet valve and the flush valve to ball valves (instead of the valve that you have to make several turns to shut off). This allows short blasts of inlet water and no restriction on the flush valve. And I can see large chunks of white sediments coming out. Imagine the buildups if I don’t do this every year.

[@divinee.155]

@@CycOp never flushed almost 25 years no issues whatsoever even my furnace is over 25

[@CycOp]

@@divinee.155 I guess you are lucky to live in a place where hard water is not an issue. When I first cleaned the water heater after moved in (assuming the previous owner hadn't done it for several years), I had to flush for several hours to get rid of the sediments.

[@musterseeds1778]

I like everything he said, all about cut costs and save money. Best buy a new one when the old model out the commission.

[@wayntiole]

I completely agree with Grumpy. My present water heater is approximately 20 years old and other than the percolating sounds, it is still working flawlessly and I've never done any maintenance to it. I live in rural Missouri and have very hard water. My house is around 50 years old and the original water heater lasted over 20 years with no maintenance. I'm convinced that the best thing is just to leave them alone and replace them when they finally fail.

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Chris, you are so right!! Thanks for verifying my view.

[@F4CreationsNJ]

15yrs and going strong.. no maintenance on mine since install

[@sealyoness]

You and me! Years back we moved a few blocks from our first house to our new home and within a week, we purchased a water softener. The difference between the aquifers between those two towns was an eye-opener. Couldn't believe the scale that formed seemingly overnight. I think it might have saved our water heater a lot of trouble too.

[@johnmac7883]

Dude if you think percolating sounds are ok wait till you hear the boom after the relief valve fails to operate properly. This advice here is dangerous and unsound.

[@jb888888888]

What happened in between the "over 20" year old original heater and the "approximately 20" year old current water heater in your 50 year old house? Did you go without hot water for 8-10 years?

[@user-pi2uy9pb1u]

Can you tell me if flushing with vinegar is okay? Reason being that our water feels slimy and our head itches - perhaps contaminants in the water? We have a LOT of hard water here and no water softener, but that won't help with contaminants in the water. The city has checked it and said it is fine, but thought of flushing with Vinegar - lots of info out there on that. I know you mentioned not to bother flushing, but would that help with cleaning out some of that? THANK YOU! Your dad is a great help!

[@charlessmith833]

I pulled out a rod that was totally eaten up. When that happens the heater shell itself becomes the food for the corrosion. Rods are not unreasonably expensive and are not difficult to change but you will need a good quality socket and a breaker bar while someone holds the heater to keep it from twisting and breaking your pipes. My city also requires a pressure absorbing tank attached to the cold water side to absorb the extra pressure caused by expanding hot water when the water meter backflow valve is closed. I absolutely hate replacing my water heater because I always have to replumb the whole darn thing to make the pipes fit. I can never find an exact replacement water heater. Very aggravating.

[@ppumpkin3282]

Surprising he said don't replace the anode/

[@highgate4767]

Impact wrench works great for removal. 1 1/16".

[@jeanineharmon2063]

I think that flushing water heaters maybe determined by where you live. Whether your area is high in calcium like Missouri, or low calcium deposits like California.

[@danielmiller3379]

I'm going to disagree on a couple things here, I do agree on the flushing unless you do a great job of flushing. The anode rod DOES NOT flake off to plug holes, thru electrolysis the anode rod gets "eaten" vs the tank, they are only about $40 and depending on your water it may last as little as 3 years or 10 yrs, but changing that is easy and will keep the tank from getting eaten, Also that valve on your water heater I think you should test that every year, if it leaks put a new one in, very easy and about $15, but if that valve fills with sediment and will not open, there have been cases where the water heater shot up through the floor because the valve did not open to relieve the pressure. I do not know where this guy is coming from on these issues.

[@jeboccuzzi10]

The rod is sacrificial. It corrodes before the tank.

[@bobthibodeau5699]

You are right surprised he said that as every amateur knows about sacrificial anode

[@stephendiederiks812]

I don't think he is talking about the anode rod. He is talking about a ceramic rod that is suppose to fill the cracks in a glass line water heater.

[@HaHaHaHope]

You are spot on about the T&P valve. Very irresponsible of him to tell viewers not to test it. It’s a shame most of the comments are taking his opinion as fact.

[@wdtony]

@@HaHaHaHope I always test my pressure relief valve every month. If it clogs a bit, I’ll run it wide open a few times. If it still stays clogged, it needs to be replaced. Usually they only clog up when they haven’t been tested in years. Very important to test.

[@jaawmangrum4452]

thanks for that info .i have a question why would the main cold water go to hot water side on hot water tank?

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Jaaw Mangrum, that will happen but it’s not anything to worry about. As long as you don’t get hot water going to cold water. If you have a circulating pump, hopefully there is a check valve between the pump and where it returns to the bottom outlet of the water heater.

[@dannylee9209]

Thank you, I always feel guilty not flushing my water heater , now I don't !

[@louf7178]

And this is a bit misinformative.

[@Brocko2891]

To change the anode rod you need to partially flush anyway. Flushing at least every few years can only help.

[@Yollaman2024]

Bad information

[@midwest4416]

Appreciate the expert perspective. I'm replacing my 40k BTU 40 Gal with a 36k BTU 40 Gal (Tight Budget or i'd keep with a 40k BTU) I'd prefer to not have a self cleaning as I understand that the sediment is flushed out the hot line. BTW the current water heater was installed in 1982 and it has the "Glass Lined, verbiage, that your dad described, on the tank. Any concerns or recommendations? -thx

[@whathappenedtofreethinking6902]

Thank you Jim and Jordan. I feel much better for not having flushed our water heater for 20+ years.

[@Fastpuls63]

Thank you guys, so this was really helpful for me. Mine is percolating right now and I’m just concerned. Does this mean it’s on the way out?

[@TheGrumpyPlumber]

Donna, the percolating sound is very common with any age of the heater. Please don’t be concerned.