How to Form and Pour a Chimney Cap (with Roger Houck)

Had a lot of people ask about how they can donate to the channel. This is my Patreon if you want to donate to the channel. Thanks for watching!
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Roger Houck has been a professional stone mason in upstate NY for over 20 years. He grew up learning skills of this type from his father and working on construction crews and with other craftsman for many years before creating his own business.
Growing up in the Adirondack Mountains of upstate NY, you learn by doing.
Roger now brings his best how-to's to you through this channel. Please check us out so you can learn to do it yourself with the confidence of doing it right.
PRODUCT LINKS:
Rigid 18v Hammer Drill
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Rigid 18v 4.0Ah Battery (2-pack)
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GRK masonary screws
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Marshalltown Tuck Pointing Trowel
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Marshalltown Tuck Pointing Trowel Set
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Marshalltown Grout Bags
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Whisk Brush (tent whisk)
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[@Butterfly-iz3nm]

What a great video. This man is incredibly skillful and incredibly generous for sharing his skills with us. It's refreshing to see someone who still excells in their field of work. There are too many underachievers out there nowadays. Maybe it's just because I'm getting old, but nowadays truly skilled craftsmen are few and far betweem. I learned a lot from this video.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad you enjoyed it! THANK you for the kind words!

[@ChrisTaylor-Guitar]

This is the best process breakdown, tips and tricks video for putting a pro crown on a stone chimney out there. The video was extremely well done and the commentary was natural, funny and always on point.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU! We are trying to make some more like it to build up this channel. I really appreciate the positive feedback. please share it with anyone who it might help. thanks again!

[@gonnfishy2987]

Its so unfortunate that chimneys and and fireplaces have fallen into less favour these days. Electricity and gas resources, prices… people need to be able to break from relying on resources they can’t obtain themselves

[@nbore015]

I just went down the KZbin rabbit hole on chimney cap replacement and this is by far the best video. Thanks!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

HA HA I've certainly done that on a KZbin topic before THANK YOU! if you run into any questions on your project i'm glad to help!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

GREAT TURKEY VIDEO BY THE WAY! nice shot with a bow. I have another channel that ive been working at for a few years "rogers rigs" icefiishing, fishing, fileting, meat packing etc. check it out if you want another rabbit hole to explore! :-) kzbin.info/door/tl0VZSmB64uzoR4nLXn9EQ

[@nbore015]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Lol I forgot that I even had videos on you tube. That was a long time ago!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

well i think it should have gotten you some more views! that is good footage! its hard to get that stuff!

[@fun_with_daddy3106]

Been doing this myself for over 25 years and the drill thing is genius 😅 il try this on the next one 😂

[@ItchyKneeSon]

I love when I find a pro who does quality work and can explain his work efficiently in detail. Thanks so much!

[@jeevespreston]

What a pleasure it is to watch someone that knows EXACTLY what they’re doing, and understands all the subtle nuances of obtaining a durable outcome…

[@redbarn7968]

This is a great video! You covered every single thing (and then some) of how I will be forming my cap on a brick chimney. Incredible. Years of wisdom and experience in a relatively short video. Thank you!!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad very it was helpful! I've wanted to make this vid for a while. please share it too. you will have an easier time on a brick chimney, you can even skip the ratchet strap trick and just screw the first 2 2x4s into the mortar joints. rather than packing the cracks with mortar the night before like we did here, you can just use a little silicone caulk to seal the form from leeking on most brick chimney forms. i guess i should do a brick chimney cap vid. thanks for watching and i hope your cap turns out well. please like and subscribe. ive already recorded a dozen more how to masonry vids, just have not had the time to edit 'em and get them up. its our busy masonry season right now so we gotta make hay while the sun shines! -roger

[@unexistingpromise]

Spreading knowledge is like lighting a candle. Lighting a second candle from a first, does not diminish the first candles flame, there is just more now. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. - knowledge weighs nothing, carry all you can

[@wallace678678]

Thank you very much for the video for your professionalism and for donating Al your time and showing your experience to us we have a better vision of doing a good job thank you very much

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad to help. thanks for the encouragement

[@charlesnagy1122]

This whole system is brilliant! And that’s coming from a mason on 18 years! Can’t wait to use this system!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU CHARLES!!! id love to learn some of your tricks too.

[@michaeledwards4655]

What a great video. I really like your style, how you explain things and the details you go into. I have a cracked chimney crown/cap here with my stone-built cottage in Scotland and this was really amazingly helpful to get me clued on how I might approach it. I never sign into KZbin, but felt compelled to say thanks to you for taking the time to put this video togther. Rock on...

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

I'm glad it was helpful! Thank you for the encouraging words. it is really neat to think of one of these caps showing up in Scotland. My father taught me this method. let me know if you run into any questions!

[@sixtotaveras5948]

This looks great, but from what I've seen, there should be a 1/2 gap between the flue and the concrete. Otherwise the expansion of the flue will crack the concrete.

[@robertfrew1788]

Great video guys a real pro and so much info covers every base.Thanks

[@MooseLord.]

Rarely comment, but you just straight up deserve to know how good of a video this is. Most DIY videos i watch I'm learning from some crusty old dude who doesn't care about his work, you legitimately seem to care! Masonry is becoming a lost art and your guys do it proud. Wish you were closer to WA state to do my mess of a chimney!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANKS SOREN! that is exactly what i am hoping to do. pass the lost arts of the trades on to the next generation the last gen got skiped. working with your hands was considered demeaning and now it seems like people are realizing that they gotta know this stuff. i hope to compile some more of my buddies who work in the trades and make this a real headquarters of building and fixing homes. I also have a fishing channell "rogers rigs" and im trying to teach the art of catching cleaning and cooking your own dinner over there. youtube is a really intresting platform and my family has had a lot of fun with it. if you have any pics of your chimney i'd be glad to take a look! thanks again ROger

[@YinzerHouse]

Hey Roger - Do you add any sort of sealer on this afterward for waterproofing? Wouldn't the snow and water drain into the concrete since it's porous?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yes good point. i like aqu-pel for the sealer. but you must wait 21 days to apply after pouring. thaks for watching!

[@thomasfox4513]

A great teaching vid from a guy who clearly knows what he's doing. While I try to never turn away work to do myself, the shear expertice demonstrated the value of hiring top pros like this guy.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks for the encouragement Thomas! i'll get some more vids uploaded soon

[@gonnfishy2987]

When my gfather built our house and chimney in the country, brick fireplace with a stone exterior. Is primo. Rising damp is a horrible problem for city houses especially older ones. Bricks thirst for moisture. Can see it when you’re building and put a new brick in a bucket of water

[@ChaseW26]

The drill 🤣 use a sawzall or an SDS hammer drill with a flat chisel and vibrate to your heart’s content

[@Hockeyshiitake]

If my stone chimney has rocks laid horizontal on the top already protruding around the edge for a cap should I remove those rocks and then form a cap just like this video I think this is the way but just wanted to see what you think. Thanks

[@MichaelPanuski]

Thanks for making the video, picked up some very helpful tips

[@PhilKlebba]

I went ahead and poured, I do have some honey combing on the surface probably due to being slow getting the concrete on. Is there a product you recommend to seal this up?

[@bjpigott1900]

I use a flat-head 6inch nail in the drill. Quick, easy to lay your hands on, and no damage to the timber.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

GReat idea! the drill driver digs in. THANKS BJ

[@cheffsolo7739]

So it what is fake lol what you said if this is real lol , but you got great information, and love your video I hit that like button !

[@billgregory9560]

Thanks Roger , the chimney in your demo looks exactly like mine, I never thought of doing the cap like yours , but it seems it would cure all my problems and bind the top 3 layers of brick together almost like a collar, by the way the videos are well explained well done , its better than watching TV

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THanks Bill! yep these caps really do solve a lot of problems! Good luck on your repair. if you run into any questions, feel free to ask!

[@billgregory9560]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters THANKS jOHN WILL DO ,AND iLL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT , SO GLAD i FOUND YOUR SITE AS i LL BE DOING MORE CEMENT WORK DOWN THE LINE

[@aabrassard7974]

Excellent video Roger! Another use for the impact drill, liked that.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks for watching Aaron. hope your block project is moving despite this rain.

[@goon8080]

great craftsmanship… how do u fix a cracked flu pipe ?

[@MouwDown]

Thanks for this how to video. I'm bout to re tuck point my old chimney and put a actual cap on. I have some anxiety about actually doing a good job. Appreciate it.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

You are most welcome @Chris Mouw. Let us know if you have any questions

[@brockbaker3able]

Would’ve been nice to find this a week ago, lol. I ended up using quick release clamps to clamp 2x4 form around the chimney to get the width and overhang, and screwed a 1x4 to that to get the height. Used sakrete fiber reinforced concrete. For drip protection, I ran a bead of silicone around the underside about a 1/4 inch in. Hopefully that’ll help the water drip. Didn’t lube the wood. Good whack from a hammer got the form off. Turned out pretty well.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thanks for watching anyway Brock. it sounds like you found other ways to skin the cat! sounds like a successful cap. and being 4" thick will make it strong and heavy. great job!

[@MikeHaduck]

Good video, Mike haduck

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU MIKE!!!! You are the master of masonry teachers! I appreciate Your time! I know how much work goes into making a good vid and you have done A LOT of them. There are a few generations of people who never learned this stuff from their elders. We got to get it out there before its lost! And KZbin is where people go now to figure out how to do everything now! Thanks again!

[@MikeHaduck]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters thanks roget, I wish you success, I subscribed mike

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thank you! i'm working on a lot of new vids on helpful topics, maybe someday we ca work together!

[@MikeHaduck]

If the opportunity arises, of course, thanks Mike

[@adamlamb1441]

I watched this video no less than 5 times and today I took the forms off my 3 flue chimney cap and viola. No pock marks, cracks, no leakage from the forms, and no trouble removing the quarter round. I'm a complete amateur and following this video carefully lead me.tova successful and professional result. Thanks a lot!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

That is Great to hear Adam! Im glad it all worked perfectly. thanks for watching! we are making more vids soon. finally getting back int tha masonty season here in northern NY

[@Darfur64]

I use my SDS with a dull bit against the form to vibrate the crete

[@oltob6707]

What does the quarter round do? Edit: I went back to :26 and now I see.

[@jimpollock7361]

The hint about using fiberglass was fabulous! I used an old sawzall blade to poke it down in. Great explanation of steps. Thank you for taking the time to make this. It was the best of all that I watched.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks for watching Jim! yep i learned the fiberglass trick from a longtime mason and it really does workreally well! we have a bunch more how to vids on masonry tricks on the channel. let me know if you think of another topic we should cover. thanks again -Roger

[@malaquias2754]

Nice but, avoid handling fiber glass like that. Gloves and glasses... Respiratory protection useful too.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Good call! that stuff is nasty! thanks for watchig!

[@AndySanderson]

Top tuition thank you very much.

[@signmeupruss]

This is just wonderful. Really thorough and clear. Thank you so much.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad it was helpful! thanks for watching!

[@rumin8470]

Awesome knowledge and video. What about counter flashing a stone chimney?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thanks for watching i did a vid on flashing a thin veneer chimney. a full stone is similar. if you are flashing after the stone is built, i cut in channels with a dimond blade and caulk the counter flashing pannells into the slits. if its a new project. i set cement blocks as the flashing base, flash the block, and then set stone on top. i hope this helps. here is the thin veneer vid: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHjamoqeYsSLe6M

[@Kr0N05]

This was real good video - lots of good information. I think I saw a crack in my crown the last time a cleaned the chimney - don't know if I have the stamina to stand on the roof for any length of time; even with a Fall Harness I find my calves are just super tensed when I am on my fairly steep roof . Fear of slipping and having the screw heads on my metal roof dig into me, or just the thought that I may loose some tools sliding off the roof. :)

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yeah its no fun on a metal roof. a little caulk in the crack might buy you a lot of time.

[@chriscleave2173]

You’re a hero. Look at the pitch on that roof! I quit anything over a 9 in my early 30s. Great work and beautiful instruction and explanation.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks Chris. i tried to keep full roof shots to a minimum so my wkman's comp insurance doesn't go up. but there was a flat porch roof at the bottom. :-) thanks for watching Chris

[@davidcole8200]

There is supposed to be a barrier, even if only a very thin barrier between the top of the chimney and the crown. A crown is supposed to "float". If it is bonded to the top of the chimney it could damage the chimney top or become damaged itself. The crown and chimney top will likely expand and contract at different rates which is lilely to cause damage. Also, I would not recommend using a flammable material if you do wrap the flue tile for an expansion joint. Use high heat ceramic wool insulation. Once the concrete hardens overnight you can dig out the ceramic wool about a half inch down and apply a high heat silicone caulk. Millpack might be better if it is designed to stay flexible. It may be prone to cracking. Check your expansion joint every year or two and add new caulk if needed. The drill trick is awesome. I was going to try my triangle head sander but the drill will probably work better.

[@bobwhelk2117]

Dude WTF? Wack, spank, wet, juicy and vibrate all in one video? really?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yep that is just the nature of this line of work! ha ha thank for watching Bob

[@ManuelWahle]

You absolutely need to have an expansion joint. Otherwise, after just a few years, cracks will develop in the crown, starting from the corners of the flue tile. Oh, and did you mention a bond break? And, is that less than an inch from the outer side of the concrete to that rebar metal?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Great points Manuel. thanks for watching. I'm sure the value of the expansion joint varies in different climates and different chimney setups. as i mentioned a perfect set up would be an expansion joint that is maintained every few years. it has been my experience (with literally hundreds of chimneys) that the maintenance gets deferred and the expansion joint becomes a major liability. this liability must be weighted against the benefits of the expansion joint and those benefits decrease when the chimney is tall, seldom used or has a flue liner in it reducing the amount of temperature variation. you are also correct that conventional rebar should not be placed near the edges of a pour. this is why i recommend galvanized dura wall. it is less likely to rust and since it is closer to 1/4 inch thick, the issues that come with larger rebar applications are greatly reduced, each part of this country has its own issues with a masonry cap, but this design is a very good match for the weather and used that we face here in the the northeast. thanks again for watching and commenting. I appreciate your experience and attention to details

[@benholler1389]

Yes you absolutely need an expansion joint. Yes it will maintained but the crown won't crack. Without an expansion joint the crown will crack without question.

[@D3cyTH3r]

This might be a stupid question, but how do you work on the side of the chimney that faces out towards the garden? I imagine you could do most of this standing on the roof like he does in the vid, but you'd need access to the outer side to screw the wood together/make sure it's level. Do they just use a big old ladder, or do they make a platform?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

it depends on the job. sometimes a scaffolding, sometimes ladder or sometimes i climb on top of the chimney and reach out from above.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

it is a pain to work out there

[@patrickday4206]

Rebar should have an 1.5 inches underneath and on top and minimum of 1 inch it will expand and contract at a different rate than concrete so its worse then wire I like laith wire mesh for thin concrete. I have only done one of these years ago thanks for posting. Questions I have I notice you didn't leave a gap using foam on the flue is there a reason? What part of the country are you in looks like Idaho? What thickness do you think is minimum on the crown without issues? And what sealant do you prefer around the flues I was going to use butyl

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

i talked a little about expansion against the flue in the vid. i dont hink it is a good choice for a tall unmaintained chimney. thanks for watching!

[@johnwaters5216]

Great instructional video though except for the fact you do not have an expansion joint up against your clay flue. The clay flue will get the hot, expand and crack the new poured crown

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

good point. I did address that in the vid. exp joints are somtimes nessary but should be weighed against the actual heat that the chim is expirencing at that distance from the heat source. and the likelyhood that the joint will be maintained over time

[@robertsanders2811]

Really enjoyed this - thank you. Would you consider adding a drip edge (bell cast bead) to the lower outside edge - to further enhance shedding of rain water?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

That's a great idea! it would be a bit of a time consuming detail but it would give it a rich look and im sure it would aid in tripping the water. now you got ma wondering about making a form board with a belly routed in the bottom. rather than the system i show int he vid. neat thiking. are you working on chimney cap now?

[@edwardwalters1335]

Thank you for your informative video. I have a rock chimney like in this video. Your step-by-step video gave me the information and confidence to undertake this task. The insulation between the rocks was brilliant! Worked like a charm. Mine doesn't look as great as yours, but I'm an amateur. Thank you!

[@thedustybuilder]

Awesome video!!

[@ChaosForLunch]

Great pro tips sir thank you

[@adamlamb1441]

This is one of the best how to videos I've seen! I'd hire this guy in a second.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU Adam, We are gonna make a bunch more vids this spring. we just unfroze from the winter. i have another channel on outdoor activities (rogers rigs) if you are intrested

[@johnwaters5216]

I thought the cap was that metal thing your tape measure is sitting on :-) In the masonry industry what you are explaining is a crown.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

true! i used "cap" for those searching on yt who had not yet heard of a crown

[@jerryfrederick6610]

Good detail. About the only video showing the kerf relief to keep the water from coming back to the brick face.

[@vargob]

Quikrete sells portland in 94 pound bags and concrete in 50 and 80 pound bags. So "1/2 a shovel per bag" is not particularly descriptive when it could be off by almost 1:2.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

good point . its per 80 lb bag of pre mix creet. btw the 94 lb bag is straight cement. not pre mix

[@PhilKlebba]

Haha shovels aren't really standard either

[@kyflyboy965]

What do you call a level with broken vials? A screed! Lol!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

HA ha ha! yes and secretly i even use (or misuse) my unbroken level as a screed too. Thanks for watching! we have a bunch more masonry vids on our channel if you have a moment.

[@michaelfitzgerald1328]

If you have done this for 20 years why don't you know that is the crown those things on the flies are caps.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

right you are. i suppose that is a better way to name the 2. in this area the concrete part is also called a cap, but i could sure see the advantage of the distinction. thanks for watching!

[@daviddedick14]

Oh no! You’ve given me the confidence to attempt this job that I was certain I’d have to leave to the experts. Seriously, this is such a great video. You covered everything I wondered about (and was intimidated by). The only thing I’m not quite clear on is what sort of bit you had in your hammer drill. Thanks so much for this video. I think your thoroughness and methodology could work as a model for anyone producing a how-to video.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU David! I'm sure you can do it. the only hard part if it is on a steep high roof. I couldn't address that accurately without losing my liability insurance :-) any bit will work in the hammer drill. I usualy use a square drive #2 Let me know if you run into any questions as you go.

[@daviddedick14]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Thanks for the quick reply. My roof isn’t too steep and it’s asphalt (and sand) shingles. I’m in southern British Columbia and I’m getting to this a bit late in the season - cold weather is starting to rear it’s ugly head. I did some repointing yesterday (it’s a brick chimney). Depending on the weather, I may have to wait until Spring.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

nice! brick is even easier. in fact you can sometimes screw the boards to the chimney rather than using the ratchet strap idea. sometimes a 3" deck screw will go right in the mortar joints.

[@andrehawk100]

How thick was the first pour and how long did you let it set before second pour. Thanks and great video.

[@zazult]

Good info thanks for the video!

[@shawnyblaze]

Great video. I love the hammer drill idea. However, I would put a bond break water proof layer directly under the cap and seal the water proof layer to the flue liners. I’ve seen it time and time again taking down chimneys where the cap has moved, ever so slightly, and dislodged the last course of brick, or it has spalled the last course of brick, all because there was no bond break. The cap will stay in place with its own weight. I’ve also seen it time and time again where the concrete expands and contracts and cracks the flue liner. This may be less of a big deal with a less thick and less strong mortared cap, but certainly with a concrete cap touching a clay flue liner I would’ve did an expansion joint. If you water proof under your cap it’s less of a deal if the caulking degrades every 10 or 20 years.

[@jakenardi8406]

Hey, I was just wondering what you use as a bond break? I used to use a thin foam material, but it's a pain to fit properly.

[@shawnyblaze]

@@jakenardi8406 blueskin twf ( the yellow stuff). And seal it right to any penetrations. And also it’s a good idea to to a pre slope underneath the bond break. You could just build up the centre with extra mortar before you put the bond break waterproofing layer.

[@jerryfrederick6610]

That makes a ton of sense and will deliver the results you expect, I'm sure.

[@NEROSLYN34]

Need expansion joint between flue and concrete .. basic

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

i address this issue in the vid. often the chimney will last longer without an unmaintained expansion joint

[@youngprince716]

U got something against Sombrero hats 😂 nice video man

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

HA HA HA! I guess its just not a great look for a chimney, fine for a Texan!

[@JLittleBass]

You had me at "I have invented...a miniature vibrator!!"

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

HA HA thanks for watching Jeff

[@SteveAndAlexBuild]

Nice solid job 💪🏽🧱👍🏼

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU Steve and Alex. I just checked out your channel. Great work. I love what you are doing sharing a craft before it goes extinct! I think a lot of people need the vids you are making. Maybe we can collab on something in the summer.

[@SteveAndAlexBuild]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Sounds good thanks for checking out the channel 🧱👍🏽

[@Ashroyer86]

Use a sawzall with no blade to get air out. Seen that in another vid.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yep that works too! thanks

[@routtookc8064]

excellent presentation and insight. many thanks from CHESTERTOWN !!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad you enjoyed it! thiis was filmed in C town! on loon lake

[@mikemallory6529]

As an alternative to wood forms over stonework, I use standard (2 1/4" thick x 6" wide) Bedford sill stones over top of stonework. Cut "drip" with grinder/wide diamond masonry blade and overhang 2" minimum (code here). Fill space with mortar/bricks/etc. to flush with top of sill stones and cover with 40m rubber roofing (bond break/flashing per Masonry Institute) and set wood forms over (1/2" bearing on outer edge of sill stones). Wrap tiles with ductwork bubble wrap then pour crown, 6000psi mix with fibers & liquid integral water repellen (rent gas barrel mixer if nec.). Silicone or RTV sealant at tile expansion gap and you're done. May need to cut new tiles to extend 2" min. (code here) with electric saw/7 1/4" diamond blade unless you have gas cut-off saw (Stihl, etc.). Wood form can be pulled same day since you want to use "stiff" mix (low slump) and sill stones support concrete overhang. Can be done in one day, been doing this way for 20+ years. Your way works too. '

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

that sounds like a watertight system and it could be done in a day! interesting! thanks for sharing!

[@stevencoons450]

Hey Roger I borrowed your hammer drill vibrator tip. I used a wooden dowel in my drill...worked like a champ...thanks!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Great! that is a really handy trick!

[@denniswilliams2179]

Thank you I'm C.S.I.A. certified but, before becoming certified I had zero hands on experience, after watching this I feel confident in my abilities to pour a crown.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

All the best thank you

[@IG_WindischP]

Been doing it only ten years, but my old sensei taught me an AMAZING way to do these in less than a few hours. You grab some 2x6 3-ply luons and measure in 1/4" or 1/2" if necessary from each outer edge. Gorilla tape any leftover disparity. You screw the luons into some surrounding 2x4s or 2x6 and then sit it right on top, grid wire and pour. Should allow for a 1" drip edge on each side and I've done concrete crowns in 2 hours no bullshit man.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

that sounds intresting. thanks for watching!

[@wnybricky1559]

Mason here. Pouring a cap tomorrow. I put flashing under mine. This would be difficult to flash under it it is just big enough to be annoying.. You could caulk the cap to the flu after you strip the form. There will be a slight crack there in time. I make a drip ledge with a router. I kinda like your method better. Thinking regardless I will make my drip edges more pronounced. I have a Makita 18v vibrator but your method works good too. A bushing hammer on a hammer drill would be good. I am on this job using PVC board for my walls. They are super smooth. I may have to reinforce them. Everything in your video was extremely solid advice. I was very impressed with it.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANK YOU! yep we us flashing or metal roofing somtimes if the space is bigger. and good point on the caulk. i love using the pvc when we make curved forms. THANKS FOR WATCHING! I'll have more vids coming out soon. we are still frozen in up here in northern NY

[@handymandycanada1038]

This in incredible!!!! Wow thank you for the fantastic video!!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

You are so welcome! thank you for watching! i see you are working on the same thing, helping people to get their hands dirty and dIY! thanks for your work as well

[@aaronfagerstrom34]

This is a really great video for people. I especially like the fiberglass with mortar and hammer drill trick. Those will both come in handy for us. We tried a few different ways of creating a drip edge. Our favorite way does take a touch of practice, but when you get it, we love it. The verticle board flush with the height of the base, okay? Two cuts. ⅝ to ⅞ of an inch down from the outside top, cut straight in no more than ½" the length of the board. Then cut a bevel, leaving ⅜ to ½" of the top, down to the first cut. When done, you have two "shelves" on top of the verticle board and just have to pay attn to not having bigger aggregate in the drip edge itself. My experience says that expansion joint is still critical. We use np1 with primer. That sealant will last more than 20 years easily if applied properly. I gwt it, theres little evidence of expansion and contraction, but if ita gunna happen with a concrete cap, its gunna happen at that joint. Thanks for the tips!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

wow! great tips! sounds like you did a great quality job

[@jackphilipsen452]

Im in the process of choosing to pour my concrete slab myself or put on a Steel slab on my shimney. This video makes me feel going for concrete. Or is steel the way to go?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

well steel is easier, if you can find a fabricator. if you have any deep deterioration of your bricks or stone, concrete is stronger and bonds the top of the chimney together a little better. but its a fair bit more work. especially if its up high and hard to get to.

[@jackphilipsen452]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters tnk. Yea I found a manufacturer. And it seems way easyer to place. My chimney is well made. I just need a slab on top of it. I see I can also choose copper. That looks nice too.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yep that sounds like a good call for your situation

[@_LeeroyJenkins]

Excellent informative video sir. I grew up in your area and had a house on the Okara Lakes and don’t miss the winters one bit . Another great way to make the chimney last which is far less labor intensive is to add 24-26 gauge metal chase covers to them . I have them constructed by a local metal fab shop. The initial cost is a little more more but far less maintenance in the long run and better protection from the elements. I’d also suggest sticking with Stainless Steel rain caps versus those powder coat steel ones as they rust out quickly and leave bleed stains down the chimney . I’ve been in this industry for 22 years and give the customers both options if it’s an existing chimney . If I am building a new cultured/natural stone chimney my only option is metal chase covers .

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

great points! thanks. good point on the stainless. and the fabricated cap. do you have them make a color for the flue?

[@RobbingPeter77]

Your videos helped me put a new hat on my chimney. Genius techniques and advice. Thanks for putting this out for all to benefit from!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Great to hear! Im glad this helped. was your chimney a stone or brick? let me know if you can think of any other topic i should make a video about.

[@RobbingPeter77]

@@TheHowToHeadquartersBrick chimney with easy access to 3 sides. I used the technique you showed for stone making a floating support for the form using a ratchet strap instead of screwing a base board into the mortar. I put in a drip edge in the overhang with 1/4 round, but I glued and nailed the strips down instead of cabinet screws. I had time to wait for the glue to dry and an air nailer handy so it made quick work. 6.5’ x 2.5’ chimney so it took 560 pounds of concrete to make the cap. It never budged! You covered everything crucial. Can’t think of anything more worth adding Cheers 🍻

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thats a great idea gluing the 14 round down. then its sure to come off with the form and not get creet in the space between. great tip!

[@aprilweisbeski8994]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Great tips in this video. Couple of questions, the z shaped, galvanized block reinforcing wire ... do you pull it up off bottom of the form an inch? How come no form release? If you were to use sill seal as an expansion joint, have you tried using crown coat to avoid going back on top? I think your idea of using 1/4 round to create a drip channel on bottom or cap is fantastic, I live in Michigan and we have the freeze thaw cycle going daily in the winter and water working its way under the cap/crown into the rows of brick underneath have reaked havoc on my chimneys. The other idea of using a cordless hammer drill to vibrate the form walls is a great trick. I didn't realize how much that would help, great camera work to show that. If you were local contractor, I would be happy to have you do work for me.

[@troysnyder6273]

Roger dodger hope ur fall hobbies/chores are going well..we tare down the side boards the same day of the pour..always leave the bottom base board for a couple days but by taking down side boards 4-6hrs after pour depending on weather situation ur able to doctor up and imperfections while it's still workable..we typically use a sponge on the top and sides..flat trowel finish probably outlast sponge not sure

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

that is a great idea! Then any pock marks would accept the patch easier. I done know about a sponge finish, but a trowel finish is basically gone in 2 or 3 years here. the acid rain eats the surface, but with a good thick pour and some sealer once in a while, it seems to last forever-ish. I'm gonna thr the side board trick on the next one!

[@tylerbug2009]

Great video with tons of information!! This is another project I have to do on my house, may try to take my brother into practicing on his chimney first. One tip I've heard is using rope instead of quarter round....what's your thoughts on that?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thanks Donny. rope will work OK...but it will likwly be a pain to get out after since its round and the creet can get below it. if you have a brinder you could clean it up once the form is off. but i think the 1/4 round is a better solution

[@fredericbell203]

Roger...do you have a video of the form breakdown and a review of the final/completed job? Any chance you can post this footage? I have 3 natural stone chimney at my house (about 26/27 years old) and am looking to shore them up some and pour the same caps like the video. I've been doing my research and your video is the best one I've seen so thank you so much for that. Thanks again as well....great work. Are you close to Maryland....baha!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thanks Frederic! i failedto get the tear down footage that day. i will get some on the next job. there are a few tricks. mostly taking the screw out lostening the strap. and then tapping it slowly and evenly all around. 3 days after the pout is the perfect time. thanks for watching!!

[@cavrelsilvera3858]

Thanks for all the information. Sounds like common sense information which typically means it's correct in my opinion.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THANKS for watching Cavrel! if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!

[@bobohaver110]

Totally excellent video !!!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thank you very much! are you fixin your chimney?

[@billgregory9560]

thank you Im in the process of exactly the same thing, spalled bricks have decimated the look of the dchimney also the crown is compromised so I removed all the loose stuff and built up the missing bricks with cement , now I have seen your video Ill build a collar like you and make a new crown , will this work on bricks insted of stone Im assuming yes thanks a lot

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks Bill ! Yes this works on bricks. its even easier. you might be able to screw the 2x4s on to the side of the bricks rather than go through the ratchet strap trick. everything else is the same though. if you run into any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

[@Hockeyshiitake]

Should the concrete be sealed?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

it certainly helps but its not critical. the best sealers require that the concrete has cured 3 weeks before you apply the sealer but that is a pain to limb up there and do later. aqua-pel is a good sealer

[@louie85]

When you removed the forms, did you have finish the surfaces? If so, what do you recommend?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

somtimes a little patch with portland water and a little sand. most times it is finished just fine on its own

[@stevenandrews6627]

👋🇨🇦👍👍👍 Great post!!!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Thanks Steven! I greatly appreciate you feedback. so far we have just been putting work in this channel. but you give me hope!

[@Okie-Tom]

Nice video! I am getting ready to tackle this myself. Our cap s leaking into the house and screwed up the drywall at the edge of the chimney. My chimney is made of a kind of brick looking stone called Miami Stone. Which was made in Miami Oklahoma. My question is; I have seen several videos that advise to use something to make a break between the brick and the cap itself because they thermally move differently. Some have used a sheet of galvanized sheet metal and even some used tar paper. What material would you recommend for this? Also, would high strength concrete mix be the same as your using regular mix and adding Portland? I appreciate your time to make the video. Thanks, Tom

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Hi Tom, thanks for watching! I do not recommend the break between creet and chimney material. I understand the logic behind it but the concern for water working in between that separation is too big in my mind. yes with the method I show there is a chance that there will eventually be a bond brake between stone and creet, but I am confident that since the creet wraps down over. the stone water cant come in.

[@JohnnyRawks]

Wow, great video! There are so few out there, of any type. I have a brick chimney with two flue's, one for the gas furnace exhaust, the other with a stainless liner from my fireplace insert. I have a broken 8"x8" top clay tile on the furnace flue, and the cement crown is deteriorating to some extent, but it's not horrible. No cracks really, just some flaking I guess? I was thinking of just coating the crown with crown coat, or crown seal, or some other cement-like rubberized coating, but now that I've seen this, I'm wondering if I should attempt a new crown. Wondering how you get the old cement crown off? Jackhammer? Cold chisel? Like I said, mine is all in one piece, but has some erosion happening on its surface. I had put some of that black tar like rubberized sealer on there several years ago to try to help the deterioration, but it eventually cracked and probably caused more harm than good.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

thanks John, yep i would probably replace it. it is a big job, but most patches only work so far and the deterioration continues down below. most caps brake up easily with a 4lb sledge and a chistle. unless they have a lot of rebar in them. the sun breaks down most patches and recoating's sooner than you would like

[@JohnnyRawks]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Thanks!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

sure thing, let me know how it comes out.

[@JohnnyRawks]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Will do! That is, if it turns out I'm brave enough to dive into it. I have a 1500.00 quote for a chimney guy to do it. I'd much rather do it myself for under 100.00, but... we'll see. Cheers!

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

that is not a crazy price depending on how accessible the roof is. but yes if your time is free, your materials would only cost about 100 bucks. either choice is good.

[@Dipchitz]

jif or peter pan though?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

jiff! too much sugar in pp! Thanks for watching!

[@daze023]

Well now I can just do my own

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Awesome if you have any questions let me know

[@amandasettee8922]

Hey Roger forgot to reply about my finished chimney cap, well it went perfect, actually did a 2 stage step up on the crown as the brick work was splayed so doing a double step hid the broken bricksand and it looks really cool and stands out as a great feature on the roof, even the neighbors complimented on the design thank you so much for the education

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

THATS AWESOME! thanks for the report. i'd love to see a pic

[@bucktalesoutdoors7566]

Ok Roger , now I see another reason why we’ve connected beyond the love of fishing, hunting and just enjoying being in Gods creation. I am by no means a stone mason and have had some bad experiences with some but I love working with stone and building stone walls and even though I’m a bit of a hack, I’ve always felt working with stone was good for the soul. Glad you commented on my video via this channel, your teaching style whether it’s catching perch or capping a chimney is always as informative as it is entertaining. Thanks, Don

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Yep. I cant wait to meet you and fish in person! the 7 mile long lake i live on is completely iced over as of today. so we are getting closer! My Dad taught me masonry. (after I spent 4 years in business college) He was a Forest Ranger in NY but always did masonry on the side. now i have 3-5 employees every summer and we build like crazy until about November and then take the winter off. My wife and i are homeschooling so winters are a different kind of busy and i'm trying to supplement some with youtube/rogersrigs stuff, but its mostly for fun. Yes on stone for the soul. i was looking at the old walls in the woods that you passed by while tracking that deer last week. thinking about the guys (or kids) who built those walls and cleared fields.

[@bucktalesoutdoors7566]

Nice on the ice over your way. We were just starting to see ice on some of the smaller ponds / lakes locally and then we got hit with 40” of snow in yesterday’s big storm . That is really gonna mess up the ice fishing for a while around here I’d say. I’m always amazed how our forefathers built the miles and miles of rock walls that criss cross the hills here in the Northeast. Hardy men settled this land way back when, that’s for sure. Have a good weekend.

[@thanomrafats6275]

Is there any benefit to the mortar mix with an extra scoop of portland over just using a sand topping mix or is it essentially the same thing?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

well yes... ish... the sand topping may be richer in Portland, but it does not have any stone aggregate. sand topping is smooth and easy to trowel, and its surface may hold up against the weather better but you will want the majority of your concrete to have some nice gravel type stone in it. it just makes the matrix of parts much stronger. THanks for watching btw. I will make a vid on mortar recipes soon. -Roger

[@billgregory9560]

Ill use my 4 ft level but I definately will keep it a secret lol

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yes i always feel like some tool preservationist might jump out of the woods and beat me with my level when they see me misuse it! :-) I sure hope nobly ever sees the atrocities i commit with my $600 10' stabila pate level! i was just screening gravel with it for a patio base!

[@billgregory9560]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters ha ha Robert you shoud be on TV

[@clintcowles7563]

Thank you.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

You're welcome! thanks for watching Clint!

[@scottbrown8175]

I like a lot of these tips and will use. However the one thing he did seem to forget is the expansion joint around the flue which expands at a different rate then the crown and will likely crack the crown after a few years. Unless I missed that in the video.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yep i talked about the expansion joint. I intentionally did not put the expansion joint in due to the reality of that joint not being maintained over time and the fact that 30 feet away from the heat source the heat differential is not big enough to cause major expansion.

[@scottschreiber7566]

This is BY FAR the most comprehensive and informative video on this subject we’ve found. Thank you for doing such a thorough job on both the cap and video explanation of the process (how and why) 👍

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Scott- I'M Glad it was helpful! thank you for watching! Please sub and share. If you are working on a chimney cap and run into any issues, feel free to ask. I will do my best to help. -Roger

[@scottschreiber7566]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters it just so happens I do have a question. What product would you recommend to patch a cap. I need to adhere to existing cement. Pics available if needed.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

sorry i replied but it must not have posted. patching a cap does not always work. if a crack formed, it is from movement and it will likely move again and a parge on cap will probly crack. but that being said I would probably use a fibered waterproofing mortar like blockbond and apply it to a moist clean concrete cap as smoothly as can be. then spray the cured cap with aqua pel or another waterproofer. an easier and maybe more effective route is to caulk the cracks with Lexal or another hi performance flexible caulk. the lexal is likely to expand and contract with the crack and keep water out, but the weather and sun will break down even the best caulks in a few years. I hope this helps. sorry i did not get bck faster. send a pic or lmk where you are at with the project. roger

[@troysnyder6273]

Roger want you to know ur making great videos..you should make a video on flashing

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

HA ha ha i just recorded a copper flashing job last week. i gotta get it edited. that will be the next one to come out.

[@ChrisTaylor-Guitar]

I followed your plan on my 90 year old chimney and everything worked very well. I did not have a hammer drill and used a rubber mallet and a palm sander to vibrate, I still ended up with some honeycombing on the lower edges. In retrospect I should of made the first batch of concrete wetter. Can I just patch those with sand mix or cement patch? Thanks for the video, it is the best out there by far.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Nice work! yes the honeycomb could be patched with some sand mix on a coo damp day so it does not cure too fast. the sooner the better so it is most likely yo bond with the green cement of the. yeh i should have mentioned that the first batch or 2 are best a little on the wetter side. then its gotta be stiff to make the pitch on the top of the cap. great idea about the palm sander! thanks for watching and commenting!

[@glennauger1205]

Love the video. Thanks for taking the time for a detail lecture. This was'nt tips for the job, it was a short class of great detail. Thanks for the knowledge of what and what not to do for the best crown.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad it was helpful! and thanks for watching! i appreciate the encouragement

[@grcooley]

Fantastic video work and very helpful.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad it was helpful! thanks for watching! are you fixin your chimney?

[@billgregory9560]

so funy Roger, with the drill vibrator, you should be on tv

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

when i first tried it. i was whooping with excitement! it just works so well! thanks bill