How-To Make Stone Veneer Stick And Never Come Off

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Roger takes us into the masons classroom and through his process of how he applies thin veneer.
Never in all his years of being a stone mason has one stone ever come off!
Some of this may seem non-traditional, but we know it works!
Please leave comments and tell us how you do it.

[@troysnyder6273]

We stopped scratch coating nearly 15yrs ago..much stronger bind allowing mortar to wrap through the wire rather then creating a cold joint the way manufacturers suggest..starting to enjoy ur videos

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

YESSS!!! hey byt he way i see your vid on a perch box! i'm gonna make one for next week fishing trip. you and i have A LOT in comon. My other channel is all about perch fishing kzbin.info/door/tl0VZSmB64uzoR4nLXn9EQ

[@bucktalesoutdoors7566]

After living with a concrete foundation on the small log home I built back in ‘90 I decided to have cultured stone veneer put on to dress it up in 2018. My Budget was modest @ $10k and the guy I chose had good reviews on Home Advisor... Home Advisor, what a mistake ! Wanted the Dry Stacked look but what I got was a mess, some dry stack, some mortared joints and some areas were just gobs of mortar between the stone. I was pretty upset with the end product but paid the guy and took it as a “buyer beware” lesson. ( two other quotes came in at 12,500 & 13,000 but my budget was locked @ 10K ) To the most people it looks 100 times better than concrete, but even to this day I’m not really happy with it. Live and Learn.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Oh man, that is tough, especially when you have to look at is every day and remember the bitter experience. Yeah, how a guy slays the stone varies a lot! it is not apples to apples even if they are using the same material. unlike putting up siding or laying block, stone requires a certain artistic eye and a continued caring about each stone and each joint to keep it even. and if its done well it is not cheep. we don't do a lot of cultured stone projects here, but depending on the stone and the accessibility of the job and the condition of the sub straight, it could cost from $20 per square foot to $ 60psf just in labor.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

oh and Home advisor is a criminal operation in my experience. they hounded me for years trying to get me to sign on as a client and then charge as much as $100 per lead. the truth is in the masonry market. there is such high demand and low supply of good masons that we absolutely do not need to advertise. i dont even answer my phone! but the guys who do have to advertise are doing it because their reputation is keeping them from getting jobs. i wish we were connected in '18 id love to have run up and layed up some stone some weekend. we could have made come videos in the process!

[@marshallsanders5672]

Great Video ! That’s how I’m going to put my veneer on No dought ! Thank You !

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

great, I i hope this helps.

[@thomasfield398]

Great vid. Helpful. Thanks.

[@marshallsanders5672]

Far better to do it right than do it twice. Go old Stuff !

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

there are a bunch more specific vids on veneer work on the channel

[@user-jn1fh8df7k]

Hey Roger will you please breakdown the mix to use on the back of the stones. I am going to apply stone to lath, inside. Thank you. The video is very good.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

inside wou would be fine with a mix of 2 parts mortar mix(with sand) and 1 part straight type N mortar

[@sarahdelph4299]

Quick question! When transitioning from vinyl siding to a stone/block foundation, can the precut drip edge purchased at Lowe’s be used for this transition or does something wider need to be used? It’s about an 1”-1.”5 on each side.

[@TheMoody2006]

Excellent content and explanation

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Glad you liked it! thanks for watching

[@CWillC1972]

Thanks for this video. The project I'm faced with is cultured thin horizontal stone veneer (1"-1-1/2" thick) to be applied to a brick chimney. Do you have advice on how to address the flashing on an existing roof, and the best options for treating the top of the chimney (full (like 2" thick, and 2" over hanng all sides) cap stone- custom cut with a small arrestor, vs. a full enclosing chimney cap)?

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yes and yes. ive made a video on flashing and caps. ill try to link em to you

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/hHjamoqeYsSLe6M

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

studio.kzbin.infoSw70e5NZZYA/edit

[@CWillC1972]

@@TheHowToHeadquarters Thanks so much, I appreciate it.

[@Abomitron]

What are your thoughts on full embedment of lath(1/4" mortar on front and back)? Between dimpled self furring, and stuff such as spider lath, it starts to seem as though some 1/4" standoff's or spacers would be an easier solution to accomplish full embedment and still keep the lath somewhat tight. Not a fan of scratch coats for small scale stone veneers, but it seems a necessary evil with the lath furred even the slightest bit with some of the larger format stuff. During an old demo once, I did encounter an exterior stone veneer that utilized lath laid over 1/2" thick, 1.5" wide furring strips. Appeared to be plywood coated in coal tar. Seems as though it was an attempt at drainage channel and embedment all in one. For something pushing 60 years old it was still incredibly solid.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yeah that's a tough call. THanks for the question btw. i go into this in a vid on prepping the substrate. we go with 2 layers of house wrat face to face. with hopes that it will make a place for watter to condense and flow down. but i really think keeping water off the masonry is key. here is the vid kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5_YlHybjJmCjpI

[@bretswan4623]

I question most of what you have done. Polymer modified mortar is what I believe you are using and that is what should be used. Your lath should be incapacitated in 1/2 of cement to protect it. A better solution is to stick stone to PermaBase cement board with a Laticrete polymer mortified mortar. That combination is much faster and the best bond you can find. It is also warranted by Laticrete for 15 years when done correctly. No need for a mallet and you have 8 to 10 minutes of play time to move or remove the stone and re-stick it. That is the only way you can know if you get 100 coverage on the stone with mortar. That is code by the way.

[@LuckyDogDog]

Thank you for answering my first question I have another question if I'm adding real veneer Stone to a brick wall do I have to worry about the weight should I bolt on an angle iron onto the foundation to let the stone rest on it for extra support

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

well the engineers tell me that the weight is transferred to the sub straight as long as the veneer does not exceed 15lbs per square foot and the height is under 15' all cultured veneers are under 15 lbs psf and granite veneer is under 15per sq ft as long as it is one inch thick or less. I like to put screws under the stones as i go. maybe not everywhere with brick but every few stones. deck screws will often go right into the brick mortar without even predrilling. this gives you a mechanical connection and some more weight transfer as you go up the chimney. an angle iron is not usually not necessary, i like foam under ground as the brick ledge to protect against frost. but it is not a terrable idea to attach an angle iron if it makes it easier to get the wall started.

[@Porkslap83]

I have a chimney with durock on the interior of a house. Would I need to put the diamond lathe on beforehand with real veneered stone to apply properly?

[@HOGANSTHEMAN]

I’m going to do the repairs on my cabin after watching you. Several of the slate veneered Have popped off. Should I seal the whole thing when finished. What product? Thanks

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

i dont think i would seal it. if it has a good cap to keep water off it, its better to leave it unsealed and let it breathe. then moisture can get out if need be. thanks for watching!

[@LuckyDogDog]

Nice job. I have a question. Can I do real veneer stone directly on a clean rough brick surface

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

Yes you can! as long as its not painted or really dusty, brick is a great sub-straight to adhere to. somtimes you gotta keep it moist so it does not suck the water out of the mortar too fast

[@stephenbennett9481]

what's the manufacture of that stone

[@johnd4348]

What if you have painted cinder block, any suggestions on removing the paint.

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

yeah that is a problem its possible to remove the paint with a cup grinder....but a HUGE MESSY PAIN i usually just tap-con lath over the painted block. thanks for watching John

[@georgespangler1517]

I only use cement board now, wire is old technology before cement board and it just makes a weak place for water to get behind

[@amc848]

one day man will invent telescopes that can see atoms

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

and what a day that will be!

[@georgespangler1517]

I disagree with this one, lve tryed both , with cement board dry a scratch coat can fail as it draws all the moisture into the wall,, l found that brushing bonding adhesive on the wall and stone and just putting mortar on the stone makes the strongest hold,, l did many test stones too prove it, all the failures was on the both sides mortared stones never the brushed on wall adhesive stones

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

do you let the adhesive get tacky or dry. or doe you keep it fresh? this is interesting! thanks George

[@georgespangler1517]

Dosent logic tell you that if your not doing a scratch coat before,, what's the difference in just putting mortar on just the stone? ,, That's why i soak the wall with bonding adhesive instead of a thin layer of mortar

[@TheHowToHeadquarters]

that makes sense. What bonding adhesive do you use?