How to Rebuild a Damaged Chimney with a Heavy-Duty Chimney Crown

PLEASE LIKE & SUBSCRIBE!
Click the link below to check out my Etsy store!
www.etsy.com/shop/HowToHacks?...
Click the link below to get my FREE Ebook!
eepurl.com/hsJ2F5
In this video we rebuild a damaged chimney. We initially deconstructed the chimney and removed everything that was damaged with a brick chisel and a rotary hammer. We then laid the bricks back up and poured a heavy-duty chimney crown out of concrete. We used metal to span the gap over the hollow part of the chimney which will allow the crown to expand and contract freely without damaging the brick. Please like and subscribe if you found this video helpful.

[@HowtoHacks]

If you found this video helpful please like and subscribe to support the channel!

[@jeremypaddock3838]

The best method for repairing crowns is to wrap the flue with sill seal. The clay and concrete expand and contract during the freeze/thaw/ and heat from the fire and exhaust, at different rates. The concrete will eventually squeeze the clay and deteriorate it. I am changing one out now that failed as a result of not providing the necessary relief between the two different materials. Everyone has their own way of doing things so I am just offering some advice that was given to me, passing it along.

[@patrickwilson4902]

Did all that work and did NOT WRAP IT... Stuck some insulation in the bottom corners.. Is that how we do it???? I'm trying to fix mine. SINCERELY ..

[@ericrankin4666]

@@patrickwilson4902 they did a pretty good job for not being Brick masons. I would’ve removed the crack going down the wall instead of just pointing it and I would’ve installed a corbel bump out at the top then the crown but how they did it was fine for them. The only real mistake they made is not installing an expansion joint around the flue tiles. Like the guy above said, best way is to wrap sill seal around the tiles so the concrete doesn’t touch the flue and after you cut away the sill seal and silicone the gap. It’s actually part of the code requirements now in some states. This allows the clues to expand upward and outward with splitting the crown or lifting the crown or corbel. It may not cause an issue if they don’t run wood stoves or don’t use the fireplace too much. But if they produce a lot of heat in the chimney it could cause a crack down the road.

[@AGermz]

Do u remove the sillseal after?

[@00kool420]

@@AGermzthis is the question no one seems to answers.. I believe you take it out and fill with caulking but it definitely needs the gap

[@moi01887]

I watched another video where they did that, and said after the concrete sets, you remove the foam and put in some flexible sealer. That makes sense to me as it seems like the foam could melt or even catch fire. But how the heck do you get it out?

[@justinphilpott]

Instead of horrible muriatic acid, you can use lemon juice, works a treat, sooo cheap, and is super eco friendly.

[@ismscsim]

There is no capillery on underside of the cap you poured. There is a risk the water/rainfall will travel to the brick underneath the cap as there is no capilarry break there to stop it.

[@qsurface3799]

Top flue tiles are gonna crack no expansion space between them and crown also glue should be a minimum of four inches above crown .

[@DionTalkFinancialFreedom]

Awesome. Doing this now. Thanks

[@HowtoHacks]

You’re welcome

[@timhanson8335]

With so much nice work I must say no need for metal reinforcement when u use the right mix. A rapid set mortar/reg mortar mix hybrid will not only set in under 30 min it is far inferior to any other mix and will not crack at flu perferations like most others do. Allows me to give a warranty for as long as they own the home. Also I lower forms down over too course at least 1/4 brick sometime q and a 1/4 brick to free up too course brick to use for repairs down lower. Then I run a bead of rope on top center of 2x4 form to make a drip channel for water that tries to roll around back towards the brick.

[@abl5516]

Boom, I love the comment section. The rope is such a great idea. I have a 7" crown that needs to be replaced, would you still use your hybrid mix? see a lot of guys like the hardness of HS concrete (like these guys) Much appreciated!

[@jerryfrederick6610]

I use some square 1/4'' stock nailed in the center of the 2 x 4 to form a kerf.

[@jackphilipsen452]

verry cool result

[@davidjanakos4188]

Thank you for this video....QUESTION: What are the other 2 square openings that are exposed to the open air on the left and right of the chimney cap.....Doesn't water get into there and damage something....?

[@groovy1937]

Needed to add an expansion gap between clay flue liner and cap - expansion/contraction will likely be an issue. Seems like the clay liner should extend up higher than the cap like plumbing vent pipes extend through roof per code for snow level. Seal the concrete on the top, use an elastermeric crown seal coating and that cap will last a very one time, need to at least use a water sealant on the concrete. I would have taken the chimney down to the roof line and rebuild with all new bricks - just so the look is better and all potential bad bricks replaced. I would have also replaced the last flue liner tile, do to age and likely gonna spall .

[@HowtoHacks]

All valid points

[@alexbotnar9285]

Maybe that wasn’t in the budget 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@skaizun]

The vid kept referring to the crown as the "cap," which is the "roof" that goes over the chimney stack to prevent animals and debris from entering the flue.

[@c.brannan1782]

Is an expansion joint around the flue and the new cap you installed then filled in with some hi-temp silicon necessary? I’m looking at doing one and was curious.

[@HowtoHacks]

Code now in most places states to do an expansion joint. Most chimneys in my area don’t have one. I decided not to do one because I did another chimney cap just like this and it has held up great (from 2015). An expansion joint isn’t a bad idea though. If you are doing a thin mortar crown I would definitely do an expansion joint. After watching a few other videos of experienced masons repair some chimney caps these 2 guys didn't use any expansion joint around the flues either. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaiaYZhrg7-Nj6M kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqGXhGxjbJyVorM

[@jlouutube65]

THank you, now I know what to quiz the contractors on! ;)

[@user-yn7ot8hx3c]

Exactly I’m a 62 year young glamma who would have tried to do this myself, but I’m currently recovering from 2 back surgeries. I watch these helpful videos to become knowledgeable. I appreciate people like this who share their experiences with others. 😊😊😊🫶🏽🫱🏾‍🫲🏼🫱🏾‍🫲🏼

[@youngprince716]

Hey it looks good overall, cool you got to do it w your oldman it seems like.. but why use your hands and not a trowel? How come you didnt leave a gap for expansion around the flue, like you were explaining at the end as to why you dont fill the gap around the flue so it doesnt expand.. same concept. Seems odd. And also do you plan on laying another flu? Id go up AT least a other 4 inches on the 2 smaller ones and prob even more so on the big guy so nothing back drafts.... top of Crete should be min 4 inches below that top of flue

[@bike2015]

I would've let that crown set overnight then pulled the forms off also would've had the flus stick out a little higher incase you wanna install dampers or rain caps also you definitely need a extension gap

[@cavrelsilvera3858]

i've watching many of these videos. Everyone mentioned a gap between the crown and clay flute. You left an expansion gap below the flute and crown, but then had the concrete right up against the top of the clay flute? You didn't maintain that gap. Is that because you used concrete, or because as you said the concrete is floating?

[@HowtoHacks]

It wouldn’t hurt to add an expansion joint especially if you are just using mortar mix and tapering down at the edges. We poured another cap like this one that had 3 flues and was concrete 4 inches thick with wire reinforcement. We didn’t use an expansion joint on it around the flues and it looks good to this day. We poured that one in 2015 and I still live in the house and go up to clean the flue every year as I burn wood. So, I decided to do this one the same way but adding an expansion joint isn’t a bad thing.

[@HowtoHacks]

After watching a few other videos of experienced masons repair some chimney caps these 2 guys didn't use any expansion joint around the flues either. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iaiaYZhrg7-Nj6M kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqGXhGxjbJyVorM

[@eloymarquez4783]

Thanks for sharing. Super useful! One question, would you use a electric hammer drill or you rather do it by hand?

[@HowtoHacks]

You can do it all with a hammer and chisel but a hammer drill definitely will come in handy.

[@davidj4529]

I’m attempting this on a new house I just bought, starting early tomorrow. If I only get the bricks re-set tomorrow, and need to do crown on friday, (rain wed/thurs here), is there anything I can cover the crown-portion of the chimney, without covering the flue? There’s 2 flues, one is fireplace (not used) and other is my boiler (currently being used)? I wasnt sure if I had to worry about what material I use to cover if I had to, obv with the flues cut out and still operable, if I needed to finish crown on Friday. Do you have any suggestions? Can I tie a garbage bag over it or not a good idea being so close to hot flue?

[@HowtoHacks]

If you purchase a metal cap that sets on the flue you could cover the chimney and then cut a small hole in a tarp and place the metal cap over it. I would use something heavier than a plastic bag.

[@rezaabasi2187]

this video was very useful, im doing a Chimney Job almost exactly like this one up in Toronto, just i had to demolish the hole chimney and rebuilt from flash, i was wondering how much is a fair bill for such a job? given it took me 3-4 days of work and i worked alone would you plz gime me an idea how much shall i charge for this kinda job?

[@HowtoHacks]

It’s a lot of work. I would just add up your hours plus materials and see what hourly rate makes sense. Example: 8 hours x 3 days x $30 hour = $720 + materials.

[@rezaabasi2187]

@@HowtoHacks thank you

[@themasonrycompany.]

@@HowtoHacks $30.00 an hour is a steal out here in California. Next time at least charge $45.00 an hour

[@OhReely74]

How did you attach the 2x4 to the brick for the crown overhang?

[@HowtoHacks]

Tapcon screws right into the mortar joint.

[@samsavedbygrace996]

Almost perfect

[@WIlliamCarvill]

hey two questions for you: (1) what thickness plywood are you using for the outer layer of the concrete mold & (2) how long about do you leave it to set before floating the drying concrete?

[@HowtoHacks]

The outside plywood is 3/4 inch. The time to dry and remove the edge of the form to finish isn’t based on time alone. It’s the temperature and humidity on that day, what time of day, and is primarily based on how the concrete feels to the touch. It should feel kind of like thick wet clay that will hold its shape but can still be molded somewhat by working up a slurry on the surface of the concrete.

[@WIlliamCarvill]

@@HowtoHacks thanks a lot!

[@Sean-Aviation]

nice video. by the way, what about covering these openings? water and stuff can get in?....

[@HowtoHacks]

You can buy metal flue covers from Lowes or Home Depot.

[@Sean-Aviation]

@@HowtoHacks thanks but is it a must or not realy? i do wonder how much water can run in anyways

[@HowtoHacks]

@@Sean-Aviation Some water does get in and pests can make nests inside the flue. It is a better to have a cap. That being said, the water is usually negligible amounts. Some might puddle up on your basement floor at the base of the chimney. If that is an issue for you then a cap will prevent this. After that the next issue is pests getting inside the flue which can happen on occasion.

[@linusgrant1172]

Imagine next time you repair damaged bricks 😄

[@michaellounds4203]

Anything to filler up lol i love it

[@buckkylem]

Do you guys not leave an expansion gap where the concrete meets the flue?

[@HowtoHacks]

It wouldn’t hurt to add an expansion joint especially if you are just using mortar mix and tapering down at the edges. We poured another cap like this one that had 3 flues and was concrete 4 inches thick with wire reinforcement. We didn’t use an expansion joint on it around the flues and it looks good to this day. We poured that one in 2015 and I still live in the house and go up to clean the flue every year as I burn wood. So, I decided to do this one the same way but adding an expansion joint isn’t a bad thing. Read other comments under this video to get links to other videos that do the same thing.

[@ciaranbyrne62]

Should have had a drip edge on the chimney cap. That would have been achieved by using a piece of rope on the wooden frame.

[@TheKochFamily]

What kind of concrete did you use? Anything special?

[@HowtoHacks]

Just regular Quickcrete bag mix.

[@thomwolfe7390]

I'm curious - why not use cement board instead of the metal to cover the openings before placing the concrete?

[@HowtoHacks]

You could. I just had the metal material on hand.

[@SixaughtSix]

One hand harry doing alll the heavy lifting

[@TheDavidscc32]

Do you remember roughly how many bags it took to do the entire crown?

[@HowtoHacks]

5 or 6 I think. But I bought extra and returned so I was sure to have enough.

[@saltbae865]

Are there water issues with corbels? We had the bricks falling apart?

[@HowtoHacks]

Yeah, corbels will hold some water and ice and fall apart faster than straight chimney walls will.

[@saltbae865]

@@HowtoHacks Thank you!

[@FranklySpeaking73]

glad you all used proper PPE like glasses, gloves and ear protection. Great way to stay safe. Apart from that, I appreciate the video!

[@alexbotnar9285]

These men don’t give a fuck

[@gridtac2911]

Awww someone scared for their "safety"? All that PPE won't do much good if you fall off the roof. Maybe they should bubble wrap themselves too. 🤡🤡🤡

[@marial4707]

Is this the same technique with a stone chimney?

[@HowtoHacks]

Yeah

[@Powder148]

question for you, how much something like that cost?

[@HowtoHacks]

Do it yourself cost for the materials is probably $200 to $400. If you hire someone probably $1500 to $3000 depending on several factors.

[@HarborRoofingFlorida-mx3lm]

Would the concrete corode the metal?

[@HowtoHacks]

The concrete is self supporting once it dries. So the metal only needs to hold then.

[@dustinbrown2292]

How long did you wait to remove forms to float the sides?

[@HowtoHacks]

Removed the next day

[@FranklySpeaking73]

leaning over the saw blade at 6:29 priceless safety lesson. don't do this. wear PPE!

[@Zwei327]

No drip edge cut under the overhang either.

[@themasonrycompany.]

What do you mean? Drip edge cut

[@1474wilson]

@@themasonrycompany. a drip edge. When it rains, the water runs down the chimney cap and underneath the overhang, a drip edge cut about 3/4" from the edge of the cap prevents the water from making its way to the brick, and keeps the bricks as dry as possible.

[@themasonrycompany.]

@@1474wilson ohh Sounds right. I don't think out here in Southern California is needed. Those states with snow should apply a drip edge

[@1474wilson]

Definitely, I'm up in Canada.. and we always have them!

[@calvincalvinify]

Forgot to cut a drip edge into it.

[@TSCBroken]

what about the drip edge?

[@HowtoHacks]

The 1.5 inch overhang has been sufficient as a drip edge. When it rains water runs off the cap and doesn’t touch the brick. If there is an issue you can make a cut on the underside of the overhang with a right angle grinder to create a drip edge.

[@tropicalien3963]

Gonna get a Bosch bulldog one day.

[@HowtoHacks]

Yeah it’s a good tool. I use it all the time. Even more than I thought I would.

[@PhilKlebba]

How much would this cist?

[@HowtoHacks]

There are too many variables to give an accurate answer. Material wise just 10 bags of sand topping mix cement and form boards. Labor cost will vary drastically depending on where you live. A crew of 2 people should be able to complete in 2-3 days.

[@timc2797]

Are you in Columbus Ohio

[@HowtoHacks]

Northern Indiana

[@papalou190]

And they wonder why it cost so much

[@mikepignato8859]

Bricklayer here first off I wouldn’t frame the cap with cheap ply wood and wouldn’t strip It the same day bad idea you can rub it with mortar the next day and it will look fine. And you don’t really need to put anything around the flu pipes when you pour it. I always caulk around them when the concrete is hard and you will be fine iv don’t a lot of caps and some very fancy

[@randydeline9600]

You did ok until you cemented in flue without a bond break.Ok 4 know not longevity.bad bad bad!

[@twotalljones4790]

Hi I am rebuilding mine and have the wrapped the flues with sil seal.I am thinking of using plastic wrap to put under the entire crown for a bond break for the brick`s also. so basically the crown is floating on it`s own.

[@patrickwilson4902]

Did all that work and did not rap it, is that how we do it stick some insulation in the corners??? SINCERELY...The man that's trying to fix his chimney....

[@HowtoHacks]

The insulation is just to prevent the concrete from leaking into the hollow part of the chimney. You can do that with silicon as well. It’s not a bad idea to put it an expansion joint around the flus. I choose not to because I have had luck doing it this way before. See the other comments under this video about it.

[@josephpetrillo2243]

Use silicone of your framing. It will make it water tight.

[@HowtoHacks]

I did. I thought I included that in the video. Maybe not though…