How To Frame A Basic Door Opening / DIY

[@alanlane3869]

The marking, the way you laid them out, is something I haven’t seen in other similar videos. That’s a big help. Thanks.

[@jimlofaro5695]

so simple, so efficient. well done better than other videos by a lot. Thank you !!

[@Johnshackles]

I like to sandwich a piece of 1/2 in plywood or osb makes it 3 1/2 by 3 1/2 then turn on end doubles the header strength.

[@PatriotDIY]

Yea, I mentioned that in the video as another (stronger) option. Just wasn't necessary for this build

[@kikos7879]

I've never thought about turning my reciprocating saw blade upside down. Thank you for that, definitely gonna use that next time.

[@brandenbrown6011]

Thank you for the measurements! Nobody else explained it like.this

[@skycleanairmoldwaterremova262]

I like how you explain the process with the proper names and methods. Great!

[@PatriotDIY]

Thanks

[@shakejuntxcvi2590]

Thank you for this amazing explanation! Gave me the confidence to frame my own door without any hesitation

[@MMo-e8r]

Wow, very easily explained so even I can understand! Loved how you laid it all out and described everything done. Thanks!!

[@MartyWolf-i9l]

I got lucky i found the video with all the info on the first try thank you

[@dylanporras2655]

Very nice. Im considering building something very similar for a 5th wheel toyhauler as a wall/door so i can leave ramp coplanar as a patio

[@straplyfedj]

Im in carpentry school right now and we are using screws instead of nails

[@politerudeboi6898]

good for tacking but nails dont snap like screws they bend its good to use both imo

[@pgoodson5]

Great video! Clear-easy to comprehend-to the point! Thank you for taking the time to make the video! I subscribed!

[@taleemkhan4779]

Great stuff. Verry helpful and to the point

[@joey1917]

Good work , if you can show how to build a basic shed door from 2x4 and plywood

[@gabmarzen1125]

Straight to the point 😎

[@alvinsaulsberry398]

Cool how you cut the bottom out last to keep the Wall intact 👍

[@curlyelp7530]

Hey , enjoying your videos. On this framing of the door, rough opening, is their a "minimum" spacing from the adjacent wall. How close can we move that door to the wall closest to it? Thank You , appreciate it.

[@2soon521]

In my experience every door way I’ve encountered and the ones I’ve done leave about 2 to 4 inches from the wall before you put your king stud that way when you hang your door the door knob isn’t in the way and you can open the door a full 90 degrees

[@curlyelp7530]

@@2soon521 OK, Thank You, 4" it is. GOD Bless !!!

[@itsbillionss]

This was such a good simple video that ill be following thanks! ive subscribed!

[@teburt4332]

Okay, got that. Questions. I'm building a greenhouse on a concrete pad (not strictly level/pre-existing on property) in a lead-to shed configuration. Since the base plate is glued down (liquid nails - concrete not good enough to drill a hole and not crack) and staying, do I still make the height of the frame 2.5" taller than door? I was not clear that dimension would remain fixed with NOT removing base. (Also, I use star-head screws, not nails. I'm 80 and doing this on my own.)

[@NullingtonVoid]

if you are not cutting the bottom of the doorway to be open you will still need the 2.5" gap at the top The extra space is for when you hang the door, so you can adjust for square if you do not frame the opening big enough, you will cause yourself more headaches when framing the door up

[@Ka_Gg]

Thanks for the video. When you were making the wall and nailing all the 2x4s, you didn't have to make sure they were level? Or you just worry about that when you flip the whole thing up in place?

[@PatriotDIY]

As long as the stud spacing and measurements are correct you don't need to worry about weather it's plum or level until you stand it up

[@Ka_Gg]

@@PatriotDIY awesome thanks! Also I'm terms of framing I saw ppl mention 3" nails but all the nailers I see use 2 1/4 nails?

[@NewtSplinter]

This was really easy to follow and super helpful! Thanks!

[@parisrilveria1365]

Great video and easy to understand. Keep on doing a great job.

[@manuel12888]

Thank you

[@sixehs]

Good explanation thank you

[@octomo5564]

Great video

[@royalkreationz]

Is this for a prehung door?

[@Mid-Americabulldogs]

Why did you have to use a double top plate? Is that standard is it a load bearing situation? General question

[@PatriotDIY]

@Mid-Americabulldogs makes it easier if your wall is longer than 8ft. Also if you have a load. But it really depends on the application

[@me2632]

@@PatriotDIY the door I'm looking to install, the top of the door will be flush with the ceiling. Would I still need the top plates?

[@knoxirving377]

When measuring for the rough cut door opening , do you factor in the inch and a half 2x4 on the bottom or measuring from the ground for the length?

[@PatriotDIY]

Measure from the floor, the bottom 2x4 will be cut away

[@gregmize01]

Looks awesome! Where is this btw?

[@S1DDIQUI]

how do you figure out the space between the studs? I am trying to build a 9 foot frame and a 10 foot frame with a 30 inch door. How do I figure out the space between the studs?

[@PatriotDIY]

@@S1DDIQUI should be 16" from the center of the stud to the center of the next stud. It's ok if you end up with something different at the end of the wall

[@AlchemyWealthLLC]

Great instrustion!

[@swirling5418]

You never squared the wall while on the floor. How'd you square it?

[@PatriotDIY]

Put a level on it after you stand it up to plumb it up before securing it in place

[@waybackj]

Would this all be the same for the door on a garage outside wall?

[@BrentIraEnman]

Good stuff!

[@jennsappalachianden]

So, if my opening on my door frame is 37 and a quarter, does that mean I did it wrong for a 36” door that’s pre-hung?

[@PatriotDIY]

Usually you would add 2"

[@juanpablohinojosa6628]

Is any known the code for the headers high there at Oregon., im from California and here is 6’8”from finish floor.

[@So98902]

so crazy that as a flooring guy I've had to contact the guy running the shit and tell them it's not framed right lmao. I've had to do that with electrical and plumbing too all the time. like it's basic shit.

[@ariehk3238]

whoah

[@marksmithard7801]

Well then Mr Know All, Set up your own channel up as you know so much and show us then.

[@KrazyIndeed]

Why you watching how to frame a basic ass door? You " I have 20 years experience" people watching beginner level shit irks the fk out of me.

[@williamkruz]

good explaination

[@bluegorillacookies]

at 6:20, I think you shouldve overlaped the top plate from one wall to the other at the corner.

[@PatriotDIY]

Yea! You are right!!

[@NMcCauley]

Can I use screws instead of nails to frame a wall (non-load)… ?

[@PatriotDIY]

Yep!!

[@melvinchavez3117]

I live in Massachusetts, I have always liked construction work and I would like to become a professional in working and learning with you if the opportunity arises.

[@jchorzel]

what do I do if I dont' have a joist above to secure it to??

[@PatriotDIY]

@jchorzel run some blocking the opposite direction before putting up the wall, then secure to those

[@stanleyvo5198]

Very nice explanation …❤ 😊

[@savsena1483]

What’s the point of the double top plate?

[@ST-0311]

The second top plate is supposed to tie the corner together, which wasn't done in this video. As you can see at 6:21 both top plates butt into the top plates of the connecting wall on the right. The second top plate on this wall should have been 3-1/2 inches longer on the right side. The second top plate on the adjoining wall should have been 3-1/2" shorter. That way this second top plate would overlap the 1st top plate on the other wall. Nail that overlap down through the top to tie the walls together at that corner. Also, technically that last stud on the adjoining wall should have been a corner post, which would make the corner stronger. It would also provide something to screw the drywall to on the inside of the room. All that said, this is passable. It's a small room with small non-load bearing walls. It doesn't have to be super strong. Add some deadwood on the inside for the drywall, and it'll be okay.

[@JMacify]

Why make the opening two inches wider than the door frame? @1:28

[@PatriotDIY]

@@JMacify not 2" wider than the door frame....2" wider than the door itself to make sure there's room for the frame and any shimming that you may need to do

[@JMacify]

@@PatriotDIY Thanks for the reply. I am building a shed in August and purchased a prehung door and thought I knew how to install it until I saw your video then I was baffled about the extra inch on the sides of the frame. I was not looking forward to shimming an entire inch on both sides. Thanks for clearing that up.

[@BobaBabe5607]

Your header should be standing up not laying down they are stronger that was that was the first thing I learned about framing a door

[@PatriotDIY]

@@BobaBabe5607 5:12

[@neildees1761]

It's a non load bearing wall, this application will do just fine.

[@rongke1026]

I might need your skill to do the similiar project. I wonder which city you are located or if you r comfortable to link me to your business page.

[@Tomc8030]

Nice vodeo

[@BrianStockton-l7z]

Or 1/2 inch ply

[@BrianStockton-l7z]

The header is not 4x6 ? In California it has to be minimum 4x6 header

[@RayMonarrez-s7d]

He using black & decker

[@safeerahmad5910]

🌹👍

[@MichaelHutchinson-p2k]

didnt specify measurement on all the studs and what they should be generally.

[@PatriotDIY]

Because that would depend on the height you need for your space....if I give you measurements for my project, it will not help you.

[@jeremiahbishopiii2245]

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