How to Frame: Part 1 - Framing a Wall

[@joshj392]

Nils, don't forget.. NEVER load the Ramset first, then the nail.... Place the nail first, then load the charge. It could always accidentally fire with the charge in there as you're putting a nail in the barrel. Great video!

[@mski349]

One would have to go exceptionally out of their way in order to "accidentally" trigger one of these. Never mind the fact that this specific ramset has no trigger, but the amount one has to push the point of this before the firing mechanism is even engaged makes the probability of an accidental firing close to none. Often times it's just easier to clear the spent shell and then reload the nail.

[@LRN2DIY]

Hi Thomas, I can't seem to reply to your comment directly, but the holes are really only for running electrical. There are some extra holes in a few of these studs where I was testing out the new drill and they don't serve any purpose - I really only drill the holes two feet up. I recently purchased a higher quality cordless drill set and have been using my cordless drill to make the holes and it has been awesome. The set cost around $300 but has a lifetime warranty on the batteries and drill, so I think it's worth it.

[@wolverine82nd]

Nils great job I am a retired General contractor in residential and you did a great job, my only comment would be using correct terminology for your videos, any time you are checking alignment on a vertical plane it is not called level it is called plumb. And you might stress safety for those less experienced DIYers. But it was a great job.

[@LRN2DIY]

Jack, thank you for both the kind words and some education. I'll leave notes in the video with the updated terminology. Thanks for watching!

[@FusionXLS]

Courteous constructive comments on KZbin? Am I dreaming? lol Great video btw!

[@LRN2DIY]

I thought the same thing! Jack deserves a KZbin trophy for being both kind and constructive! Sadly, those can be rare qualities in the comments sections ;)

[@patriotrep2093]

Jack Holt smug contractor comment on KZbin. Color me shocked. Level and plumb can mean the same thing

[@FirsteMann1929]

@Ironfukr 9 the only thing I would add is using goggles and kneepads. Especially when using a nailgun

[@jjjww975]

I used a 2x6 for my fire break --- but I have 2 walls where I need to add that thin board to create a seal --- and having those 15 in 2x4 across is a great idea ... I'll be doing that on my 22 foot walls... Glad I watched ! 😁

[@demonstrablehub]

Good to meet you at the concert tonight, Nils. This is the video I first saw years ago when finishing my basement and I had no clue at the time that you were in the neighborhood. Congrats on the success of your channel and best of luck in the future!

[@D-Allen]

At 10:20 you just centered your first stud at 16-3/4" this will mess up you sheet rock install. You should have measured your first mark at 15-1/4" with the "X" left of that line. Yes, the space is smaller, but your sheet rock starts at the wall, not the center of the stud.

[@LEX-dimension]

I find that many videos aren’t doing 16th inches on the center correctly.

[@xouyang8672]

it's very interesting, I'm three weeks into my construction class and I find your video very helpful. thanks for sharing

[@mindthreatx]

Thanks for making this video, you make it look super easy and now attacking it for my garage should be really simple.

[@MrTrevorg18]

You're supposed to mark the stud over 15.25" from end, & mark X in direction you're measuring to. Marking 16" is for your Centre, so if you mark centre, & put X beside it, you're drywall won't line up properly. You mark 15.25" b/c that's where your boards edge lines up

[@eltonnoway7864]

Yep! A rookie mistake. If you center the first stud at 16-3/4" as shown in this video it messes up the installation of your sheetrock. You should actually make the first mark at 15-1/4" and place your "X" to the left of that line. Granted , this first stud when placed will yield a slightly smaller space (when compared to all the other studs placed 16" on center) but you do it that way because your sheet rock starts out butted against the adjoining wall not on the centerline of the first stud.

[@mikimiki195]

Thanks for taking time to make this video Definitely some good tips 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

I like your video very much. Your instructions are very clear. They answered most of my questions. Thank you.

[@fernandomota7321]

Good job putting the wall in by your self!

[@AaronRowland-y5w]

That tool Ram set is bad ass I never seen something like that until now

[@RizwanKiyan1]

Thank you so much for detailed video on Framing... I shall be starting my basement project in couple of months... this will be the first time.... Your videos are very detailed... and also thanks for listing the tools and equipment needed 👍🏻🙏🏻

[@RizwanKiyan1]

As I am a beginner here... could you also mention other tools like stud cutter (saw) etc as well

[@JustinChristie]

We start to reno our basement in the next 6-months, and this video explains framing very well. subscribed.

[@nattygrowth8724]

Excellent job. Very detailed. You made it very clear. You made me have confidence that even I could frame my house. You a bad man, that's all I can say. 🤗💪😇

[@Argyll9846]

I love doing timber stud work - it's very satisfying - but these days metal studs are so much quicker, cheaper, straighter and easier for non load bearing walls. Some good tips here.

[@taferrie]

Great instruction, love the detail that is not overly basic in the explainations.

[@infiniti2015]

Excellent video

[@MasteringHow-To]

Nice work. Great tips.

[@1JustJay1]

Thanks for making this female friendly! Nice job explaining.

[@zeroskating07]

Pretty interesting to see a different method for fastening the bottom plate to the subfloor, ive always used a hammer drill and tapcons

[@ralphvalkenhoff2887]

Great video. Thank you for making this . FYI, side nailing through the bottom cord of trusses is not recommended because it affects the structural integrity. Better is to nail the block through the web and face nail another block for flush plate backing.

[@abacab87]

My personal view is never build in a basement without a weep screed along the exterior (before concrete is poured, or can be retro-fited.) and a drain tile to a sump pump. Sooner or later water will get passed the perimeter walls and into your basement for any number of reasons (or plumbing leaks). While it can be done for almost nothing as the house is being built, it costs $7-8K to do it after, but you'll never have to worry about mold or leaks. I've never torn out a basement living area without finding some rot/leaks/mold.

[@dmac5x1]

Excellent video !!

[@ladykenja2700]

- Thanx 4 very clear info & demo.

[@emilywagner6858]

I found it interesting how you did 16 inch OC. All the other places I have gone to say you mark each increment of 16 inches and draw your line, then to draw a line on each side of the first line 3/4 of an inch. The first line (16" mark) should be on the center of the stud and not to the side of the stud.

[@JasonNeri]

16 o.c just means that every stud should be 16 from center to center and no gap should be more than that. So if you start your first stud at one end you can measure off like he did and just keep each stud on the same side of the line. You can actually start that first stud any number of inches off the end and measure off from there as long as it doesn't go over a gap of 16" center to center and to a face of an adjacent wall. Since they are not load bearing, he could even do 24" o.c.

[@nativeloup]

He did not do 16” oc. His mark was at 16” but he out the stud to the side. He should have centered the stud on the mark for 16” oc!!

[@matthewboyll]

That's not necessary. Your first measurement could be 15 1/4 and then 16 from that. Your stud will always go on the side of the line furthest from the side you measured from. .

[@desertspectre2881]

Videos so detailed I felt like I was at work

[@mridahokrieg6114]

My basement is bare, starting the project of framing and finishing the basement this week.. And the only thing I keep thinking while watching your videos is that I should've done this years ago when a 2x4 stud wasn't 9$ :(

[@skeech1979]

A soffit? Never heard that. We call them bulkheads hear. Cool vid.

[@peterbergeris6510]

Should you mention regarding stud locations that other than the end studs, that each location will be 16 inch mark minus 3/4 . The first stud will be 15 1/4 , 31 1/4 n so on. Am I correct?

[@joshthomas700]

Peter Bergeris yes

[@MrPeteroni1]

Awesome work! I am planning on doing my basement the same way. However, after putting up the frame is the insulation still required even though the installation is behind that vapor wall?

[@idie2game771]

16:40 Imagine being the Tripod holding the camera when he said that.

[@fytmanatee]

So awkward!

[@xrockerguy]

Excellent tutorial.

[@Newbport849]

Thanks brotha. Dope Star Wars shirt btw.

[@michaelviggiano8959]

Great Video Nils, thanks. Can you let me know what you used to fasten the Vapor barrier to the wall? much appreciated!

[@justice4all32]

The insulation on your walls is also in my unfinished basement. I have watched many videos that state you should use unfazed polystyrene 4 x 8 board insulation. They claim this is to avoid moisture from the two temperatures on the wall. I hope not to do that. Did you install that insulation or was it already installed?

[@linuxguy42]

Nils at about 10:00 when laying out the 16" marks do you mark 3/4" back from the 16" tape indicator to place the stud at a 16" center?

[@LRN2DIY]

+Steve Grimes Great question. I've seen both methods used (16" vs 15 1/4", and so on) but I don't understand why you wouldn't mark it at 16", because then your stud bays are all exactly 14 1/2". If you mark them all at 3/4" back from the 16, then your first stud bay ends up being 13 3/4", which will require custom cuts on your insulation and potentially other issues. If I'm misunderstanding something here, I'd love to learn so that I'm instructing people to do this correctly but that's my understanding.

[@SpaceMonkey2385]

when you start your drywall it is started on the edge of the first stud and not center. If you place your other studs 16" from the edge of the first stud then 48" later the drywall will end on the edge of a stud. If you move the stud back 3/4" the drywall will end on center. This is my understanding of that principal. I'm in process of finishing my basement and just about to start framing. Will let you know in the near future how well it works out. Thanks for the video

[@rockoeasy9150]

I would have to agree with you. I am a novice but have watched multiple videos and you seem correct. From what I have seen in other videos if you were extending a stud wall you could move down a couple of studs and measure of one of those ever 16 and that would put you on center. It doesn't make since to start on the one end and measure ever 16 and not subtract 3/4 ". As I stated, I am not an expert, and the fellow who showed the video did seem like an expert. I don't want to insult anyone. It's great to have feedback.

[@SpaceMonkey2385]

I just finished framing my basement. I know that was months ago but a lot of stuff came up so it was put off. Anyhow, what I said before is correct. Measuring from the corner of any wall it the drywall ends in the middle of a stud. I used 15 1/4". If I had used 16" It would have gone to the end of the stud and I would have no way of starting the next piece of drywall

[@royslapped4463]

Well imagine you had a 16" peice of dry wall. You start from the right edge of your base and mark 16" then that is going to be exactly where your drywall is going to be at. You want the center of the stud aligned with your mark. If it was placed to the side then the dry wall will completely cover it or end up coming right up to the edge. The way you described it is more accurate I believe since you can align the side of the stud right on the mark and not have to eye ball or mark the center of the stud. Both ways work just a matter of preference.

[@now0611]

Thanks for the video. Looking at your top plates, you have a split in the middle and put small pieces of 2x4s around the stud. Is there a requirement how to connect two adjacent wall sections? specifically for basement...

[@riverasteeltuning9701]

Great video!

[@keithcampbell3428]

This video really helped out thank you !

[@robertoloya8696]

do you have any videos on how to build a wall at an angle?

[@Sjrick]

do you have any type of barrier between the insulation and the wall ? Or does the insulation just go right against the wall bare ?

[@liemqnguyen]

awesome video Nil, I am looking to start building my basement. Your videos are very helpful.

[@LRN2DIY]

+liem nguyen Thanks for watching, Liem. If you haven't already, be sure to subscribe. I have videos coming out on electrical, plumbing, HVAC, audio/video, insulation and sheetrock. Most of it is already shot, just need to edit them and put them up :)

[@GUALA23]

b

[@remy6348]

Would I be able to mount a bike rack on a wall framed by using this technique ? I am trying to store our bicycles in the basement during winter so I can park in the garage.

[@LRN2DIY]

Absolutely. These should be plenty sturdy for that.

[@emsonnnnn]

Just curious. Why use pressure treated wood for an interior wall? Is it because it's in the basement? Thanks

[@LRN2DIY]

It's because it's right on the floor. If there is flooding of any sort, the pressure treated gives you rot resistance for that first inch and a half or so. It's also required for code compliance. As for whether that's required on a first floor when there's a basement under it, I'm not certain actually.

[@sanchezcruz20]

Great video! Maybe I missed it, but do you have to shim between the top plate and blocks you installed when you go to fasten the top plate up? Since you cut the 2x4's to the shortest length (88 and 3/4th IIRC) minus 1/8th of an inch I'm assuming there are areas where there may be gaps.... ??

[@LRN2DIY]

+Steven Cruz Thanks, Steven. I didn't shim the tops unless there was a sizable gap, which was rare. If the nail only has to span an open area of an 1/8" or so, it's going to stay in there really well still. I have now finished my basement and the walls are all totally solid, even without shims on top.

[@TaranKahler]

I must have a slope on the floor or ceiling and I have a one inch difference from one side to the other. Would you recommend cutting all the studs the same length and using a shim or cutting all the studs to specific lengths to match the measurement from the floor plate to ceiling plate?

[@msgoblin1994]

im about to build walls inside my detached garage. Do I need to double plate the frame at all?

[@chizo5097]

Exelent video

[@shiznites]

What details can you give on how you mounted the vapor barrier? What size hex head and where do you get that huge washer?

[@LRN2DIY]

Unfortunately, I'm not much help there - that was all there when the home was built and I haven't looked into it before. Sorry I'm not more help on that one.

[@JasonNeri]

Depending on your area, that will determine what you do for vapor barrier. If the house is newer and the basement is not a walk in like this one, but rather, underground.. you actually might not want a vapor barrier. If you Google around a bit you can determine the best option for your area. I'm in Massachusetts, so the weather and style of basement actually means I'll be using rigid foam that is "open cell" or vapor permeable and will not be using any vapor barrier.

[@jeremystyers]

Thanks for the video. Way more detail than others I've seen. But 3 questions. 1. How do you insulate the walls? Is there a video for that part? 2. Every video I've seen says to be at least 1 inch from the walls but none have explained exactly where that measurement commes from and why it's in place. So, why and from where exactly. 3. If there is a gap then why drill holes in the studs? Is this simply to make future electrical repairs easier? Say I have insulated my concrete blocks (my wall). Am I supposed to be 1 inch or more away from the insulation now, laying the edge of both the top and bottom boards at up against the 1+ inch mark (not centered, but the actual edge of the board to 1+ inch mark)? So in effect, wall, then insulation, then 1+ inch (making a 1+ inch gap between the insulation and the new walls? And if so, why? What does the gap do for me? Sorry if I'm asking stupi questions but I've never done this before.

[@dman64]

How do I know if I need a fire block above my framed wall? like you did. I have an unfinished basement of a town home,, I can see at the top there are 2 slabs of sheet rock above the concrete. I would like to get started framing my exterior walls. thanks

[@illetrop79]

Can you do 24 in apart?

[@nephidir]

Where do you find the building codes you have to follow when finishing your basement?

[@LRN2DIY]

You can usually do a search for your city or state and then “building code” and I’ve had good luck with that.

[@toddmarten1364]

I want to build a wall upstairs to close off the loft. The wall will be running parallel with the ceiling joists. I am around 7 inches away from the stud where the wall is going to be. Do I have to cut away my drywall to install blocking or is there an easier way that I'm not aware of?

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey Todd, unfortunately I think that's what you'll have to do. It's a pain but I don't know of a way to get the strength you need without cutting into the drywall and adding the blocking between the joists, then attaching your new wall to the blocking. Best of luck.

[@robertoloya8696]

great vid man. good advice. thanks

[@circustime5073]

Can you explain a fire stop in the future. Thanks, I'm a beginner. I gonna try to close in my garage, but watch alot of your videos first.

[@wviii2812]

can you explain the splicing of the two studs? Is there a requirement with blocking? I have a situation where 16 oc is occuring right at the end of an 8 foot stud and dont know best way to proceed. perhaps just butt another stud right next to it and measure 16oc from the first stud?

[@iamtuckermac]

Interesting project explained in detail. I'm looking forward to following along and becoming inspired to maybe tackle something similar in my basement. One question; why did you drill holes on the 2x4 studs? I understand the holes for running electric wire for boxes apx. 2' up but the lower one I am referring to. Thank you Niles .

[@sprout2186]

Yes, what was the hole that was drilled very low (13:20)?

[@z32akm70]

Joel Miller Those holes are for electrical wires.

[@danielmorin6594]

@@sprout2186 These are just scrap pieces to show the difference between the two drills.

[@stealthgod801]

just subbed. Great work!

[@jivans84]

Could you frame on the parallel joist if that is exactly where you want your wall? Or do you need to have a block/cat?

[@LRN2DIY]

If I understand your question, yes - you can frame directly under/attached to a joist. No need to block it off in that case. As long as you're able to secure the new wall to the joist properly, that should work just fine.

[@jivans84]

@@LRN2DIY Thanks for the reply and help! Adding the block would only give me two extra inches of wall so I was thinking of just nailing to the parallel joint to make things easier and avoid some of the duct work that would be in my way.

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

What brand, size of saw blade do you use to cut the studs? Thank you.

[@LRN2DIY]

I'm pretty sure I was just using whatever came on the saw. I don't have that same miter saw any longer but it was probably a generic Ridgid 10" blade. Studs are typically made of a softer wood like Douglas Fir so they they should be easy to cut through.

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

LRN2DIY Thank you for your response to my question. I have a 10” miter saw and am looking to purchase a good blade to cut 2x4 lumber.

[@LRN2DIY]

@@HungNguyen-sb1yu No problem, Hung. You can look for a ripping blade. They'll typically have fewer teeth, like 24 or 30. That means they cut faster but not as cleanly, which is fine for framing.

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

LRN2DIY Thank you again.

[@lyndanavan4298]

Thank you for your knowledge.

[@miramin9188]

Hi Nils, your video is really nice and good help for DIY. I have a question if you can answer please. I am trying to construct basement standing shower. Can i use 2x2 studs instead of 2x4 on the concrete wall side. All other side I have 2x4. On the concrete side where I want 2x2, there would no electrical or plumbing issue, I will use schluter board and tile on stud. Please advise.

[@LRN2DIY]

I'm not 100% certain but I believe one of the reasons 2x4s are used is for their strength and rigidity when being mounted from the floor to the ceiling. If you're planning on fastening the 2x2s to the concrete wall, I think that would help a lot, but I'd definitely check into the code in your area to see what's ok. Good luck!

[@miramin9188]

Thank you for your reply.

[@TechnologyHive]

What about squaring the walls? I deal with this on a weekly basis. Very important.

[@Shingen036]

This guy is wearing a some "Home Depot" nail bags, prolly never framed a house in his life!

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

What level should I use, box or I-beam, 48” or 72”? I’ve never done this before. Thank you.

[@LRN2DIY]

Hung Nguyen Honestly either box or will work fine and anything 48” or above will work fine. Longer is typically better. Good luck!

[@tymorring79]

Can I press my studs against my vapor barrier? The room isn't very big and coming away from the wall 2-3" will give me even less area.

[@robertcollett5080]

Ty Morring in

[@danle7022]

Thanks

[@petechirpich6521]

Hi Nils! For measuring the stud lengths I have seen different theories . Some measure each stud and cut to length less 1/8" , and some do as you are with using all same lengths. I am finding that my individual cut lengths make it hard and tighter to stand up a wall. If I use your method, however, my gap could be up to 1/2" from top plate to joist. That would still be ok right, assuming I use 5/8" sheet rock? As an example my stud measurements were from 86 1/2 to 87 (this included the subtraction of 1/8" from measurement). I'd like to use your method but am not sure that 1/2" gap is ok. Any thoughts?

[@Alamyst2011]

Pete Chirpich Wedge a shim in the gap. Drive a screw up threw it. Drywall and done.

[@aaronrecordsgomez6636]

Dont you double frame the top and bottom plate??? And aslo you didnt let us see the finishing by the pipe and so so.?

[@LRN2DIY]

Doubling up the top and bottom plate isn’t necessary as far as I’m aware but it’s always a good idea to check the local code first. As for the pipe, that could be a tricky topic because they’re all different but I was able to fit my pipe largely behind the framing with the exception of some notching here and there.

[@RabidGoose22]

how would OSHA feel about aiming the nailgun towards your own foot?

[@peterbergeris6510]

What size nails used for studs n top plate?

[@Skepticalways13]

Drawing lines every sixteen inches and edging the 2by is NOT 16 inches on center

[@JasonNeri]

The fact that there are 3 likes on this is really sad. If the right most edge is the start and you measure 16" over... The centers are 16" apart as long as the next studs right side is on the line. It's literally the definition of 16 o.c.

[@nxtchpforme9154]

Gunpowder tool on you tube??

[@shobhitsaxena19]

you rock!! thanks.

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

Thank you for your answer.

[@romenolastname6478]

Hello Nils, I am going to start on finishing by basement (never done before), how do you measure and determine how much wood is needed? what size wood to use? 2×4, 2x6? I

[@LRN2DIY]

+Rome nolastname Hi Rome. You can use 2x4 for all non-load bearing walls. Typically load bearing walls are already installed so you'll likely only need 2x4s. To figure out how many to use, calculate how many linear feet of walls you'll be framing (add the length of all walls up) and then divide that by 8. Multiply that number times 9 (the number of 8' boards in a typical 8' section of wall) and then maybe give yourself some extra boards for corners, errors, etc. For example, if you have 240 feet of walls, 240/8=30. 30*9=270 boards. Also remember that the bottom plate of each wall needs to be pressure treated, so be sure to account for that. I'd always recommend going with 16' boards for your top and bottom plates when it makes sense. Good luck and have fun!

[@romenolastname6478]

Thanks, this is helpful. Now you mentioned Corners how do you corner?

[@LRN2DIY]

+Rome nolastname There are a few types of corners you can do. If you do a google search for "California Corners", you'll see the kind I'd recommend for most situations. What really matters is that you always provide support for the sheetrock to be fastened to in your corners. The only exceptions are if there will only be an inch or two of overhang, which is acceptable.

[@ElReyD3Reyes]

Hey Nils, I'm having trouble measuring for my windows and doors. I was told to leave 1/2 in all the way around windows and doors so if I'm framing for a 30x60 window what's the space I need? and a 30x80 door? I usually end up with a tight fit and have to cut out some studs

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey there, For the windows, you want to end up with as much space as possible while still overlapping some of the window frame/vinyl. If you're able for example to frame your window such that you have 1/8" of the frame being covered up by the studs, that's fantastic. If it's a bit more, that's ok too. Technically, you don't even need to do that because the drywall can be butted up against the frame too. For the doors, I've heard that you should leave between 1" and 2" of space. If the actual outside measurement of your prehung doorframe is 30" x 80", then you'd leave an opening of between 31" x 81" and 32" x 82". That gives enough room to get the frame perfectly plumb in both directions. Does that all make sense?

[@ElReyD3Reyes]

DIY Nils Thank You so much dude, I try with that and see. I usually end up wrong with my jack studs.

[@ElReyD3Reyes]

DIY Nils I think I was adding the size of the king stud also and end up wrong

[@ElReyD3Reyes]

DIY Nils Thank You Nils, it's a bit clearer now. Did a wall yesterday and didn't come out to bad. Made the outside of the window frame outside flush to accommodate siding.

[@co-know-proconstructiontips]

HI THERE YOU HAVTO MESURE YOUR ROUGH OPENING BETWEEN THE TRIMMERS.. CHECK OUT MY VIDS SUBSCRIBE IF YOU LIKE !!!!

[@FerrisBueller-lj9zj]

♡ramset 😎🛠

[@gabrielgonzales8163]

buen video construccion

[@trevorhackathorn6059]

How did you join the two 2x4s as your 165.5 long length?

[@LRN2DIY]

For the bottom plates (on the floor) you don't need to join them because they're fastened to the floor, though you can join them just by using a shorter piece on top to connect them. Same with the top plate, but of course they're fastened to the ceiling joists. If you look at 16:53 you can see the joint. If you can get 16' boards, that's even better.

[@Crafty_Rob]

By soffit, you mean bulkhead, right?

[@bryanmcdermott77]

Nils - thanks for the videos. when is video #3 getting uploaded?

[@LRN2DIY]

+bryanmcdermott77 Hey, Bryan. Thanks for watching. I'm just finishing up framing the walls and will likely start doing the soffits and closets this weekend, so I should have a video out in the next two weeks or so. Are you working on framing right now or just getting some research done?

[@bryanmcdermott77]

Just finishing wall framing myself, hopefully by Halloween...soffits next...so wanted to see if you had any pointers. Thx for the vids:)

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

What framing gun and nails do I need? Thank you.

[@LRN2DIY]

Great question - I hadn't thought to put links up. Here's a nailgun that is well rated and even less expensive than Harbor Freight: amzn.to/2SI5nE6 and here are some nails, though I think it's cheaper to get nails at Harbor Freight or Home Depot due to the expense of shipping them: amzn.to/2H0rkwY. I've had good luck with 3" nails. Good luck!

[@BubbaLeroy]

The wall layout was wrong. Every 16 inches should be the center of the stud, not the edge. This would cause problems when applying 8 foot sheet rock because it wouldn’t land halfway on a stud. I’ve made that mistake before.

[@FerrisBueller-lj9zj]

👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

Thank you so much for answering my questions. I plan to have ceramic tiles in my basement. Should I glue them directly to the cement floor? I hired someone to do my kitchen before and I remember they put something down like backer board before they put the ceramic tiles on top. Thank you again.

[@LRN2DIY]

You're going to get different answers to that question depending on who you talk to. Generally if the concrete is in great shape then you can tile directly onto it. If you think there's any chance it will split, warp or crack, you should lay down backer board. There's no easy or correct answer that I'm aware of.

[@OHFScratch]

Nice work. Are you required to do 16"OC studs or can you get away with 24" OC since none of these walls are load bearing?

[@Alamyst2011]

John Our Home from Scratch 16 will stop drywall from having waves to it. 24 oc and you will notice the drywall tends to dip into the 24 pocket. Also someone pressing against 24 oc might actually break the drywall. 16 is always correct.

[@OHFScratch]

Got it. Thanks!

[@reddog418]

17:14 you definitely just said fuck it and cut off the bottom of that right-side bit, eh? Yea I see that chunk of missing pressure treated wood...

[@tommyho6437]

Do you need to be a license for a home owner to finish their basement?

[@LRN2DIY]

You’ll want to check with your local code but in the USA, you need to obtain a permit from your city but do not to be licensed. You then need to have inspections along the way.

[@MegaJesse40]

So your not 16 on center? Why didn't you go 3/4 back?

[@christineconnelly4791]

Here's my question....When you frame over the insulation that's tacked to the foundation, do you still put insulation between your studs? I'm about to start my basement and was thinking it was best to rip it all down and insulate between studs. thoughts?

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey Christine - I would do both. In order to meet code you need to figure out what the R value requirements are for your state (see this page: homedepot.owenscorning.com/insulation/easy-weekend-projects/insulating-your-basement-walls/#tab_prepare) and then figure out what the R value of the existing insulation is. In my case, my existing insulation was only maybe an R5 or R7, so I left it all up and then purchased and installed R13 to go between the studs of my walls and R19 for my ceilings. The cost difference was minimal and my basement stays very comfortable in both summer and winter.

[@BALLYRM]

good but actual action is done in timelapse..- does not help

[@craneoperatorkorenamir]

thanks😎

[@reznez2010]

Did you go to school for carpentry? If so, where? You seem to have formal training.

[@nativeloup]

That is not 16” oc. Your mark was 16” but you put the stud to the side of the mark. You should habe centered the stud on the mark for 16”oc!

[@TJPIZAZ]

I really hope y’all read the comments before watching but DONT LISTEN TO ANYTHING IN THIS VIDEO THERE ARE SO MANY WRONG THINGS BEING DONE

[@HemiJB91]

People will quit trying after the first time picking up the nail gun lol

[@filibertosotomayor5562]

you hit the air duck with the hammer and made a dent :) thank good is not my home lol

[@323232blue]

Thank you I am only five years late but better late then never lol