How to Frame a Room: Part 2 - Framing Windows and Doors

[@joemckenna9644]

One of the clearest ‘how to’ videos I’ve seen. Nice job and thanks.

[@wolverine82nd]

Nils Jack again, on your headers if you have 1/2 inch sheet stock rip it to the size of your header and sandwich it in between each header piece this will get you the same dimension as the studs at 3 1.2 inches. It also adds strength to the header for shear strength. You do fine work and I enjoy watching your videos, I spent 36 years building homes as a residential General contractor. Great job.

[@TargetShooter145]

Don't forget it adds a bit more of an insulation barrier. If you say otherwise, who am I to argue with a professional construction worker that has built homes for 36 years right?

[@paulsanders9078]

You can also make jack (or trimmer studs) 1 1/2 inch longer and put a top sill between them under the header on horizontal to build the rough opening out to the outside of the frame. (If loadbearing framing is necessary)

[@josephmckay9046]

Like you said, your not a pro. Sorry to see that people are cruel with some of the comments. You did a bang up job, well done. You explained everything and yes there are different ways to tackle things. You will learn as you go. Keep up the good work.

[@markbaron4856]

Hey Nils, Great job. I agree with Jack about the headers. I have always sandwiched 1/2" OSB or whatever was Laying around into the header.

[@WASD20]

Great videos, thanks! I'm about to build my first wall in the basement of our home.

[@karens.9026]

Wow, you make this seem easy...thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill!!

[@technopreneurialminds]

You’re great at explaining things! You must be a great teachers kudos

[@Elovess]

You are a great instructor. Very clear explanations step by step. Thank you.

[@auroradrp]

Hey buddy, I'm doing this same thing right now so, many thanks goes out to you for a well put together series on framing. I'm gaining the confidence and knowledge to get it done right.

[@gsaarchitecturalmechanical5872]

Thank you very much bro. You said that you are not a professional framer but you did an excellent job, I have a framing work to do soon and I wanted to get some information, I already have the idea because I am a draftsman and pretty good with measurements plus I am very handy. Keep up the good work, God bless

[@samyj9900]

Your videos are informative and simple to understand. I learned a lot thank you.

[@almas7123]

Thank you sir. Been watching a few vids as I prepare to tackle my first project ever. A playhouse 😁

[@WesHamstra]

Great video! Very imformative. I'm starting to finish my basement next week

[@five-forty3431]

Excellent explanation, thank you!

[@travisharper2837]

Love your videos man!! Thanks for the help.

[@raechalhardy8247]

You have done an excellent job on these basement videos. So super helpful for us newbie DIYers. Do have any videos on sheetrocking, especially around a window?

[@jeremylester6558]

Props for the vid! It finally helped me figure out something I was stuck with. I haven't started with Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible yet, but I googled and downloaded the book. Looks fun too!

[@jawei840]

Nice job sir...I should learn it from you.

[@nickad]

Great video man. Thanks a ton for making this.

[@GiveMeMyNameBackYoutube]

Awesome job! thank you for the video. I will use this for my basement

[@pickdc316]

informative and helpful...great job

[@Señorita80]

Thank you for making this video

[@lbarocio]

I'm new to this and still learning. any videos on the actual window install after framing? looks like a thick space between the window insert and internal frame.

[@kcwolfman]

Thank you. Informative and educational

[@TigerHaus166]

love you Nils! another great video!!

[@barrystraughan]

Great videos and well explained. I was wondering about the spacing for the studs in the door frame. Also the Fire Stop you mentioned I couldn't quite figure out how you did that. Hard to figure anything at 16" OC. Amazing how those trolls who don't do anything to help others always squeak the loudest, usually with nothing worth reading.

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey Barry, thanks for watching and for the kind words. If your first question is about where the 16" OC studs go surrounding the door frame, the door goes wherever you need it and then you can either start your 16" measurements from the door or from the wall - doesn't much matter. The studs for the door frame itself should be as wide as the outside of the door jamb that goes in it, plus an inch or two to adjust for plumb. As for the fire stop, the idea is to put it as far back as it can go (usually in the cavity between the foundation walls and the first floor's joists) and have it come out to just shy of where your wall will be. Then your walls only go as far as the firestop - not to the joists themselves, and the top plate gets fastened to the firestop. Hopefully that makes sense but if you have question, don't hesitate to ask.

[@donho3617]

In California you had to fill the space between the headers with plywood or OSB. The new code requires the header to be a solid header.

[@hammerhead6537]

Good job Nils. Ignore the insults. Insults are always spouted from idiots.

[@chadkramer6802]

Hey Nils, you demonstrated nailing in the sill to the jack studs prior to placing the king stud, but what is the method to attach the top of the jack stud to either the header or the king stud? Also, how do you attach the cripple studs above the header? A little bit more in this area would help. Otherwise, great video!

[@LRN2DIY]

Great questions. In each of those cases, you’re attaching perpendicular boards to each other, which requires toenailing. Just drive the nails on at an angle and pay attention to two factors: 1) What angles will provide the most strength for the joint and 2) where will the nails cause the least problems and not get In the way of drywall etc. Hopefully that helps!

[@peterbergeris6510]

I have a cinder block basement wall. Should I start my wall at least an inch out so I have an air gap?

[@zachcyrus7112]

Do you leave a half or 3/4 inch gap between the edges of the window sill and framing to accommodate drywall or are the studs completely flush with the window ?

[@yasindawood3496]

well explained and a good job done. 👍

[@citycafe291267]

very nice videos!

[@loivo3269]

Excellent 👍😉 thank you

[@AlphaKennyBody2]

What about the corner? Is the 2x4 exposed on the ends for the drywall to screw into both the corners on each side?

[@rossmitchell9599]

Awesome Job, wish I could hire you to help me with my basement Framing, its tough

[@jonathonmcdougald8032]

Nils how did you doing all those cool things about building keep up the great job hope you get good money doing what you do.!

[@kevinmallouf243]

Hey Nils, just started watching, I am a do it yourselfer with multiple houses, and multiple questions. I love your videos, very helpful. Thanks. Ed... send me a link to your videos as well, you sound like you are smarter than the average bear.

[@LDBaha]

Thanks this was awesome!

[@undonesofficial]

Good video man. Although, I didn't see you go to depth on layout; if you're going to tell people to layout 16'' o.c. make sure they know to fall back 3/4'' on edge. Any wall longer than 8' drywall won't break correctly.

[@EE90EE]

Can you explain this please?

[@philkingmke]

@@EE90EE he means that when you're framing 16" OC, you dont mark the center line @ 16"...you mark 3/4" less and take a square and mark the other side (which would be 3/4" to the opposite side of "16"). This is so that the center of the 2x4 lands exactly at 16" and that you aren't nailing either side of the 2x4 right @ the 16" mark. For the drywall example above, if you dont have the CENTER of the 2x4 right @ 16", an 8ft section of drywall is either going to cover the entire 2x4 at the end or its going ti come up just short. The 8ft mark needs to land right in the middle of the 2x4 so you can start the next sheet and screw into that same stud with the new sheet.

[@johnbryan2414]

Omg it means mark it at 15 1/4 and 16 3/4 it matches the dimensions of the stud there by landing 16" center

[@undonesofficial]

Sorry E 90 I didn't see your reply. Phil King is correct. John Bryan, you also have the correct idea, but you have to continue the pattern, 15 1/4, 31 1/4, 47 1/4, and so on. You can't just scribe a line and mark every 16", you will not end up 16" o.c., you'll break on every edge of the stud if you do it that way, on any wall longer than 8' anyway.

[@wviii2812]

another great video! do you need to use 2x6 for the headers or can you use 2x4's? it appears the building code for maryland is not easy to find info on this.

[@luisdfernandez2601]

Nils, thank you for the video. This will be my first time framing. What's holding up the window while you are building the window frame? Isn't the frame suppose to be built first and then the window is place on the window frame?

[@ohsoclumsy]

Great vid. What size nails are you using to frame? Does nail size differ if you are toe nailing vs the "T" joints with 2x4s?

[@foxyepoxy602]

ohsoclumsy 16's should be used for framing in most cases

[@dennisrobbins458]

I've watched both videos, thank you for posting them, one question I have is when you raise the frame, do you shim where there might be a small gap?

[@LRN2DIY]

Yes - if there's any gap at all anywhere, you'll want to use shims to tighten it up.

[@petechirpich6521]

Nils, thanks for the great videos! I am struggling with my math here. You have 1 wall that is up and in place and are setting the second wall to it. When you sheet rock the first wall, won't the sheetrock go all the way to the corners of wall 1 and into the corner of wall 2? If so wouldn't you need to account for that in the second wall and make the 16" OC 1/2" further? Or am I missing how the 2 walls of sheetrock will mesh together in the corner?

[@LRN2DIY]

Pete Chirpich Pete, you’re correct. You basically have to always think about how the sheetrock will sit on the wall. That 1/2” can make things tricky if you don’t account for it. There are also California corners, where you put one stud sideways to give the sheetrock a board to fasten to but still allow for some insulation in the corner. Lots of options and the only real rule is to make it easier to drywall. Best of luck!

[@petechirpich6521]

Thanks! I am using California corner method, but I still need to account for drywall in this corner i think. I am ready to build my second wall and want to make sure i am accurate.

[@007camera]

Bravooo man👍👍👍👍

[@Opreza12]

Is there supposed to be a double top plate?

[@mikeglanton210]

Great videos sir! Did you ever go into how to finish the windows? My house has the same pre-installed insulation so I'll have that same extended sill to address.

[@LRN2DIY]

I didn't film that portion but I just fastened my drywall and window sill to the framing and butted it directly up to the window frame. My gap wasn't huge but you may need to add reinforcement to the framing if you have a larger gap.

[@mikeglanton210]

@@LRN2DIY I feel like I'm just overthinking it. Thanks!

[@cabarksdale7160]

How ddi you nail the header and the top cripples in?

[@rhinorampage1807]

do you find you have a problem framing your walls on the basement floor and standing them up as opposed to "stick framing" the wall where you would fasten both the top and bottom plates first and then each stud individually, I ask only because if you frame the wall on the ground at exactly the height from the floor to the ceiling joists above I would foressee as you stand the wall up it wouldnt quite fit because as the wall is on edge (of the bottom plate) it stands higher than the height between unfinshed floor and ceiling. Although i noticed this was not much an issue wit you, Thanks for sharing!

[@LRN2DIY]

Rhino Rampage Great question. There are two factors that play into that. The first is that I usually make my walls about an 1/8" shirt so that they fit properly. A snug fit often ends up being too snug in some spots. The second factor is the OSB fire block up on the ceiling. It really helps to make the wall easier to tip into place.

[@rhinorampage1807]

DIY Nils gotcha! Thanks for the reply! When you make it an eighth small do you then shim that gap and then nail the top plate on or just nail the top plate to the floor joists above?

[@MrAsm961]

Thanks a lot… great video

[@peterbergeris6510]

If I have a rough opening of 32x82 then a prehung door of 30 x80 would fit. Is this correct? I need to build the door frame .

[@emilywagner6858]

Question: I noticed that the lumber that meets the floor is a different color than the rest. Is that pressure treated because it's in contact with a different material (in this case concrete)??

[@LRN2DIY]

Emily Wagner That’s exactly right. Anything in contact with the floor needs to be pressure treated.

[@rafaelteixeira5247]

Nils I'm just a beginner. Can I assemble all the things vertically if I'm doing solo?

[@LRN2DIY]

Hey Rafael, if by vertically you mean standing up or in place, absolutely. I did a lot of my first basement that way and sometimes you don't have a choice. Just measure and mark your top and bottom plates, put them in place, cut your studs to size and toenail them in, along with any window/door openings you have. It's really similar to what is shown here, just done in place. Best of luck!

[@amandabruney3835]

thank you. I'm learning as I go too. using recycled wood to build shed at this point...any ideas of how to do octagonal windows?

[@LRN2DIY]

That's awesome. We just framed a large clubhouse for our kids so we're right there too. For the octagonal window, I'd recommend (depending on the size of your window) creating the octagon on the ground or other flat surface using screws instead of nails, then placing it in the wall with, ideally, one stud on either side of the octagon and one or two studs holding up the bottom of it. Another way to go is to use one or both of the actual vertical studs as the side of your window, but again, this all depends on the size. Let us know how it turns out!

[@amandabruney3835]

I'm wanting to build my own octagonal windows the glass is bottom of bottles. thank you for info. stay safe.

[@Karibari808]

what's the plastic on the wall and what foam insulation boards are good and cheap

[@LRN2DIY]

+Justlikelife The plastic is called a vapor barrier and it's used to keep outside moisture away from the studs and drywall. As for cheap insulation boards, you'd have to contact a local supplier to find out. Best of luck.

[@laurisbz8236]

The vapor barrier is used to keep vapor (air we breath, meals we cook etc) from inside of the building away from the insulation thus the vapor does not accumulate in the insulation and wood does not start to rot. Whereas the moisture barrier is used to keep the moisture from outside of the building away from the insulation. The moisture barrier should have excellent breathabilty so it lets the moisture out but doesnt let it in.

[@yasuhiroy6585]

Hi Nils, The door's header frame you said 2 x6 , Can I use 2x4 instead, same as the size of the stud. ? Thanks.

[@LRN2DIY]

Mike M As long as it’s not a weight bearing wall then yes. If it’s weight bearing you still need the 2x6.

[@josh_m]

Is a header necessary since this isn't a load-bearing wall?

[@LRN2DIY]

It's not necessary for non-load bearing walls. I just showed it since people may be doing load-bearing.

[@therealglt]

you mentioned spacers to keep the window head members apart while nailing to king studs......did you not make a solid header? usually i see (2) 2x6 with 1/2" cont. OSB (5.5x width of header) sandwiched between 2x6's. just curious. thanks!!

[@LRN2DIY]

+therealglt That's right. I used two 2x6 studs and left a space in the middle. You could definitely add OSB in between but it isn't required.

[@MB-qz7xb]

Nils,,, i am a big fan. I am building my room wall following your videos.Thanks these are so Informative. Where r u located?.

[@LRN2DIY]

Thanks, Davis! That's awesome that you're doing your own framing. I'm working on electrical video as well. I'm in Utah. You?

[@garyostergaard8185]

Hey Nils! Love your videos. Very helpful and informative. I'm finally getting around to finishing my "man cave" after being in our house for 27 years! Now I have hope that I can do it. I'm also in Utah. Pleasant Grove!

[@DominionofGod]

Question: You framed out the door, like the windows, with the large headers on top. My basement, from floor to rafter, is 84" (not counting a top plate or anything. Just bare.) The door frame im looking at is 82" high. Adding the 1.5" from the 2x4 top plate, it leaves only 1/2" of space. Obviously not enough to do any type of header or cripplers. And it could be taken up by the Rough opening area to align the door correctly. Its not a load bearing wall. It is still safe to work it this way? Or am i forced to find shorter doors? (since i will be moving tall cages through the door, id like to avoid that if possible.)

[@fiorefollo4626]

Hi Nils, Have you ever used a sub-floor in the basements you completed? I am debating whether to use DRIcore as a subfloor and if so should I frame on the DRIcore or install the DRIcore after I finish the framing. The DRIcore raises the floor about 7/8" which would only leave about 1/2" of the bottom plate exposed. I was told this may cause an issue when installing the trim as I wouldn't be able to nail the trim into to the bottom plate. Thanks

[@LRN2DIY]

Hi Fiore, I've never done a subfloor in the basement but it seems like you've got two considerations: 1) fastening the walls to the floor and 2) fastening trim to the walls. I wouldn't think the second issue would be a big deal because you should be using brad nails to put your baseboard into the studs, not just the bottom plates. If they're secured to the studs, you're all set. With that in mind, it makes sense to me to put the subfloor in after you've framed the walls. Really you could go either way but putting the subfloor down first means you'll have to be able to drive your nails through the subfloor and into the concrete, which shouldn't be a problem but could potentially be tricky. Let me know what you end up doing and good luck!

[@gregjohnson5870]

With a sub floor. Walls first and double the bottom plate to be about to nail base boards.

[@ghostlead1001]

I was under the impression that any wall placed perpendicular to the ceiling joists, has the potential of being a load bearing wall and should have 2 top plates. Is that not accurate?

[@LRN2DIY]

That's very rarely the case when the wall is an outside wall, like the ones shown in this video, since the ceiling joists can rest on a plate that sits on top of the foundation. At least for basements, if yours is unfinished, it will still have all load bearing walls framed out since load bearing walls have to be in place before the first floor can be completed. I'm not aware of any hard and fast rules regarding perpendicular walls being load bearing.

[@Rm-mc8rv]

Thank you men

[@majicain08]

Question: In the drawing below the sills on the right and left side you illustrated 3 2x4s but the actual built frame only had two. There was a smaller 2x4 on the inside. Did you intentionally leave that out? Great videos btw!

[@LRN2DIY]

Great question. In the drawing, I only showed a guesstimate of where the studs might go but when I actually laid it out 16" on center, I didn't end up needing as many as were in the drawing. It's not essential to put the "mini-jack studs" under the window sill on both ends because you're nailing the sill board into the actual jack studs. Just follow your regular 16" on center pattern and you'll be fine. Hope that helps!

[@majicain08]

LRN2DIY thank you!

[@willthomsen7569]

Hollow header??

[@PBS-nm1uu]

the 27 inch for the window is that a standard measurement??

[@LRN2DIY]

PBS #007 It really isn’t. Every window will be different so be sure to get the measurements from your window.

[@number1pappy]

This is probably a silly question, but why do you have to frame a wall that's already a wall? In other words ,you obviously have a wall that the window is sitting in, so there is a wall already in place. Why the need for a second wall??

[@LRN2DIY]

The wood framing is necessary for running wires, pipes, insulation and other systems as well as for securing drywall. You could, technically use just the concrete but that makes it really tough to incorporate those other systems.

[@liemqnguyen]

hi Nils,does this apply to small tiny basement windows ? or just for big windows and doors ?

[@LRN2DIY]

+liem nguyen For tiny windows, like the 1' x 2' windows near the top of the wall, I'd still recommend framing it like you would a larger window - just to be sure it's sound. If you do choose to go with a simpler frame for it, I would just run two horizontal studs between your vertical studs at the height of the top and bottom of the window, then secure those to your vertical studs and place your two short window side studs in between them. That way it's still secure and solid. Best of luck!

[@OvhanDevos]

+Nils Rasmusson Do you really need to do all this work for a non structural wall? Everything you did in the video seems to be what you would do for a load bearing wall with an actual window in it.

[@LRN2DIY]

+Sean Anderson I think you're right, Sean. What I show is more for a load bearing wall, and wouldn't be required for a non-load bearing wall. I'll add an annotation in the video to indicate that.

[@OvhanDevos]

Nils Rasmusson The only thing I can think of is, you have to provide enough room for drywall and stuff to attach to it, but that's about it, However don't forget either that people can and will place heavy items, including themselves, onto these window sills, so, I wouldn't worry so much about the header, but the bottom part might still be important.

[@L84DNR]

+Sean Anderson +Nils I was curious about space for drywall too. Unless from the edge of the window casing to where the window tracks are is 1/2" for your drywall. Would you need to take this measurement into account or shouldn't be an issuet?

[@brandonhawkins9740]

Do I need a header for doors?

[@LRN2DIY]

You'll want to check with your local code to verify, as it may depend on whether the wall is load bearing.

[@revealingfacts4all]

question. I see where some recommend using roof shingles between the basement floor and the bottom 2x4 in addition to using pressure treated 2x4. curious what your opinion is on this is? just found your channel and really enjoy it. love the video editing. new subscriber.

[@LRN2DIY]

Eric Mayo I get that they can be used to level an uneven foundation but I haven't needed them in my homes. If the foundation is uneven enough, it seems like it would do the trick. I'll have to keep that in mind in case we run into that issue.

[@Mearyeaurng]

How far from the wall do you need to leave the space?

[@LRN2DIY]

You can put it right up against the wall or vapor barrier. The only reason to pull it further out is if you want to run larger pipes behind it or if there are pipes or obstructions sticking out from the wall that you want the wall to be able to cover.

[@Mearyeaurng]

LRN2DIY thanks

[@AaronRowland-y5w]

If you don't mind may i ask why your not saying feet instead of inches

[@heynils]

Aaron Rowland No particular reason. I probably used inches in this video because my tape measure lists total inches more prominently than the feet and inches :)

[@AaronRowland-y5w]

Nils Rasmusson ahh okay reasons why I asked is I'm still learning how to read tape measure and wood work

[@alfriedar]

Hey, Thanks for taking the time to make this video.. sorry for the nasty dumb fucks that commented One thing I didn't get was you found 16 inches on center but the drew the line there and that was going to be the edge of your stud.. Did I miss something as I didn't see you move the line back 3/4 of an inch .. that would put your stud center on that mark yes?

[@DonGraves0]

Is it the same principle to frame exterior wall?

[@LRN2DIY]

It is, but you may want to use 2x6s for that, depending on the circumstances.

[@johnbryan2414]

Ya it's good however most windows on a new wall your building arent already in place. In fact neither are the walls and insulation. The window I'm using is huge and is double paned so it is heavy. I'm not 100% sure but it's about 5'6" sq. There isn't even really a frame around it. Just the pieces in between the panes..... I'll back up. Sorry I'm frustrated at my boss for wanting me to include it in a basement turned fully self sustaining apt. New walls except for outside walls which are brick. They will stay that way. He wants the window on an inside wall to showcase a statue or something from the bedroom to the "hall". I told him that was a little out of my.... long story shortened: I guess I have to figure out how to make it happen

[@AlphaKennyBody2]

Why frame like that around a window that's already in place and has concrete poured around it. I don't think you need to frame like that for the window in this case.

[@Amer-yl4gb]

That's a great frame but isnt it an overkill for this application??. that's not a load bearing wall and so you dont need all that of structural support. Its like the case ppl put a moisture barrier on upper floors... lol.

[@darrenmogg3440]

all well done -explained well - but CRAPPY music ...lol

[@ducaschoenberg7156]

Stodoys plans is nice for that.

[@maryharris2553]

I do not want to DIY I need a contractor to frame and drywall my basement.

[@philkingmke]

Lol. Ok, what's your point?

[@eksine]

Hmm king stud and cripples, sounds racist

[@edward-yp5pb]

Not mad, just confused why you think you should try to teach when you don't have the proper knowledge.

[@treystills]

Hey Ed, megalomaniacs are often confused with differing opinions/approaches. Don't worry about it...you just keep paying your child support bills and try to get along with your 3 ex-wives.

[@golfkid09wa]

ed ward Q

[@beaveroutdoors5879]

Bad

[@dylangaran3293]

Watching this is painful

[@philkingmke]

Was it wrong? Lol. I know nothing about framing so it looked fine to me lol