How to: Full Bust Adjustment Princess Seam (FBA)

Learn how to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) for a princess seam in this class. Increase the bust size of a princess seam pattern to achieve a better fit. I share two methods for doing a FBA on a princess seam.
Preparation: 2:01 - 4:05
Method 1 (smaller FBA): 4:05 - 12:42
Method 2 (larger FBA): 12:42 - 32:49
LINKED TUTORIALS
What Is? Full Bust Adjustment (FBA): • What Is? Full Bust Adj...
• How To: Understand Bas...
How To: True | Truing Seams (Pattern Cutting): • How To: True | Truing ...
How to Lower | Raise | Move Bust Apex on a Princess Seam: • How to Lower | Raise |...
ANEKA WEARS:
Made to Sew Aria Pattern: Coming Soon
Fuschia Fabric is a Poly Crepe
FEATURED
Ruler CM: www.madetosew.c....
French Curve: madetosew.com/...
Fiskars Function Form Scissors: madetosew.com/...
Scotch Magic Tape: madetosew.com/...
Pattern Cutting Paper: madetosew.com/...
Bic Matic Mechanical Pencil (0.5mm): amzn.to/2xJ4S64
Sharpie Marker: amzn.to/2GxIhe1
FEATURED - US
Bic Matic Mechanical Pencil (0.5mm): amzn.to/2xd2dQA
Sharpie Marker: amzn.to/2phgFm3
Website: www.madetosew.com
Email: [e-mail]
Facebook: / madetosew
Instagram: / madetosew

[@GeneralTrash97]

This is the first one explaining how to adjust whatever connects to the bodice! Thank you for that!

[@MadetoSew]

Pleasure. Glad I could help.

[@YogaladyToronto]

This is such a perfectly clear tutorial! Thank you! Everything is just right; your voice quality the speed, the camera angles, your explanations. ❤️❤️❤️

[@Honestly_Marie]

HOLY CRAP this is so informative! Your explanations weren’t long, repetitive, and to the point. We need more videos like this. Thank you so much!!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much. This really means a lot. Glad you enjoyed it.

[@baxter3877]

Just purchased a pattern that requires this adjustment and had no idea how to go about it. A huge thank you for a clear and precise method. You are a great teacher!

[@MadetoSew]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gizzimirella41]

Hi Aneka, what a pleasure to see you again! I miss your videos so much ! Thanks a lot !

[@MadetoSew]

Thanks so much for your lovely message. I really appreciate it. Aneka x

[@alexandraarellano8823]

I’ve been looking for a video just like this for years. Thank you for finally helping me understand how to do this the right way

[@MadetoSew]

Pleasure. Glad I could help.

[@NadoCrowFriend]

You never fail to present much needed information, in the clearest and most concise way! Thank you for your exceptional tutorials!

[@jillieesdaile-watts5939]

You have such a gift for really clearly showing how something is done. Thanks Aneka.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you Jill. Really pleased you liked it.

[@michelemenchaca-mogas2236]

You are truly so very lovely, so easy to understand and learn from you. You cover everything I’m trying to learn! Thank you for making this so enjoyable!!

[@paulinatoro618]

I’m in some Facebook sewing groups and everyone kept suggesting I needed to do a FBA. I watched a couple much, much shorter videos and they all seemed extremely complicated. I watched your video and wow, it’s so, so easy to follow!!! Thank you!!! What a life savior!!!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much. I'm very pleased it was helpful.

[@alyonavantiggelen3906]

Even though I never need to make a FBA (I have a cup size C), it's so good to see you back! I hope you and your family are doing well.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much! Thank you for your kind words.

[@caroleshaw9822]

Another fantastic tutorial. I am learning a great deal from you. Your knowledge, generosity and all the hard work making these excellent videos, is much appreciated.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you Carole. Really pleased I could help. X

[@lindaf1365]

Ah, lovely to see you again Aneka. Thank you for your latest video on the FBA.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you! There are more to come over the next few weeks as I've been busy filming.

[@somebodyelse138]

It's so good to see you back with your tutorials. I started sewing in June of last year, and your tutorials saved me so much stress and wasted material and time. I've not got to the point of making fitted tops or dresses yet, but now I'm making my own clothes, I might move away from boxy shirts because the shaping on store bought tops cause them to go in where I don't.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much. I'm pleased that you have found them useful. Great to hear you are making your own clothes, I hope you find this additional skills helpful.

[@somebodyelse138]

@@MadetoSew I'm sure I will, because now I've seen this, I'm realising that making adjustments for my bust (and I'll probably have to take things in, rather than let them out) won't be as difficult as it seems at first glance.

[@MadetoSew]

@@somebodyelse138 You may be interested to know that we will be launching a small bust adjustment over the next couple of weeks.

[@somebodyelse138]

@@MadetoSew I'll be watching out for it.

[@wattle2394]

Wow that was an amazing lesson, thank you. I have found the apex, lowered the apex, done an fba and solved the problem that appeared to be in thelength of the top - but it wasn't that. Looking forward to trying this top again. Thanks for your very clear, no nonsense approach. I have really enjoyed following your instructions! 😊

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you for such a lovely review. Really pleased that I could help. Good luck with the top! Aneka x

[@isabellaferretti7279]

Such a clear, beautifully explained and demonstrated tutorial, thank you!

[@marti9023]

Thank you! You made adjusting a princess seam so easy.

[@maryhopkins1585]

Fabulous video, concise and easily explained. Fussy but we'll worth it so it fits right!! Thank you.

[@roslynmurray1619]

Fantastic thanks heaps, first time adjusting princess seam. Very clear instructions

[@philippatapada8657]

Thank you so much!!! I had tried to follow a method similar to yours, but it did not mention moving the notches and I think that’s where it went wrong for me. I am so excited to resume work on my princess seam projects ☺️

[@MadetoSew]

Really pleased I could Philippa. Aneka x

[@annethevenot461]

Really like the second method for FBA. Good explanation. Thank you!

[@stelselv]

Missed your tutorials... Happy to see you...😍

[@MadetoSew]

More to come! Thanks so much!

[@gailh3048]

Thank you for this great tutorial, a really clear explanation.

[@MadetoSew]

Glad it was helpful!

[@peachy6969]

I'm glad to see you back!!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much! I've been busy filming so a few more will be launching over the next few weeks.

[@carinerugorirwera1619]

Hi Aneka :) Thank you so so much for this tutorial. It's really changed the game for me! I'm so happy to have found your channel!

[@MadetoSew]

You are so welcome Carine! Really glad I could help. Thank you. Aneka x

[@AskALibbieist]

This is the most helpful tutorial I’ve found on the topic. Thank you! You’re a great teacher. I now feel confident that I can pull this off. We’ll see later today if I can make it happen… lol

[@pamelaleitman9200]

Exceptionally taught!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you Pamela. 💖

[@joannie895]

So clear ! Thank you from a well endowed lady 😁

[@MadetoSew]

You are so welcome!

[@pv6450]

Great to see you again!! Your videos are so helpful.

[@MadetoSew]

Thanks so much!

[@seestellysew8472]

You’re an excellent teacher

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you! 😃

[@SparkyOne549]

Wow, good to see you! I said welcome back last time but you never returned... until now.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you! I'm here! I've been really busy filming the last few months. There will be a few new videos launching over the next few weeks.

[@SparkyOne549]

@@MadetoSewThat’s great news!

[@ruthirwin8222]

I love love ur videos and have recommended it to others

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you very much Ruth.

[@zinnia20207]

I love your tutorials.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much.

[@hemrajparate2126]

Excellent adjustment explation.Lot of thanks

[@MadetoSew]

You are welcome!

[@nancydann6338]

I love my bendable ruler to check that the seam length will match after altering FBA. I purchased it from the quilting section at Joann Fabrics.

[@MadetoSew]

Thanks for sharing Nancy. Great suggestion.

[@CraftyLoops]

Aneka this is an invaluable tutorial. Thank you so much. This makes so much sense to me now. Thank you. Lee :)

[@MadetoSew]

You are so welcome! So pleased that it helps.

[@Iamgone1961]

Very clear instructions, thank you!👍👍👍

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you.

[@susannetetzlaff4982]

A very helpful tutorial, thank you👍🙋🏼‍♀️

[@MadetoSew]

You’re welcome 😊

[@cornbreadfedkirkpatrick9647]

Thank you for showing this way

[@MadetoSew]

Pleasure

[@cornbreadfedkirkpatrick9647]

@@MadetoSew Your welcome

[@marilynwood6934]

Excellent tutorial, thank you.

[@MadetoSew]

Thanks Marilyn.

[@meghanlancaster8747]

Exceeding useful! Thank you. (also I adore the pattern on the dress at the start.)

[@MadetoSew]

Thanks so much. 🥰 I need to launch this as a pattern. X

[@hellojossews4582]

Great tutorial - thank you.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you! So pleased you enjoyed it.

[@candydavis4277]

Thank you! You’re amazing.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you for your kind words.

[@pabbisettyravindranath1474]

Nicely explained

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much

[@Picotee810]

great tutorial, thank you.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you.

[@bellecitadel9750]

Thank you for the tutorial. Really clearly explained and I'm looking forward to watching others now. My question is regarding the bust point. Once you've made these changes does the bust point move? Looking at the front piece, the BP marking is now split in two by the 6mm addition. Where is the new bust point located? I ask this because I made a larger adjustment than your example and still have to lower the bust point some more (like more full-busted ladies on a B cup pattern) and I'm not sure if it's already lowered a little? Many thanks!

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Belle, I don't believe the bust apex really gets lowered, as this 6mm is added below the fullest part of the curve (on the side front pattern piece). I would suggest that you work out how much you need to lower it by (from the original), and then move it on both the side front and front pattern pieces. Let me know if you have any other questions. Aneka x

[@annfulcher407]

Thank you for this informative tutorial. You said it can be done on a shoulder chart bodice as well, but does that include sweetheart bodice?

[@alexandraarellano9085]

Thank you for making this so clear. Hi at one question, the fba seems to add to the waist . Where would you subtract the extra inches at the waist if you only want the bust bigger?

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Alexandra, I would adjust it at the side seam. Hope that helps? Aneka

[@elizabethmunday6339]

Hi Aneka! Thank you for your wonderful clear directions and professional approach. My pattern does not have the apex marked. How do I proceed? (princess seams on bolero jacket from armhole).

[@MadetoSew]

Hello Elizabeth, I am glad it has been useful for you. The apex on a princess seam pattern can be located at approximately the fullest part of the curve on the side panel. This should allow you to roughly plot the apex on the front panel; by truing the seams together. Does that help? Aneka

[@elizabethmunday6339]

@@MadetoSew Yes! Found your other video on just that. Thank you!

[@MadetoSew]

@@elizabethmunday6339 Great news.

[@ToriLynnH]

Excellent!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you

[@phillasbury9336]

Hi Anika, unless I'm mistaken, there seems to be extra width added to the waistline and under the bust due to the parallel line beneath the apex on the side front? How should I remove this under the bust, as my pattern (V7975) is for a jacket and the princess seam is from the shoulder down to the waist. I'd want the FBA to account for the bust without adding additional material under the bust towards the waist. I really enjoy your videos which have helped me enormously. Thank you!

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Phill, Thanks for you question. You should be able to shape in the side seam to remove the extra you have gained under the bust apex? Or you could cut the pattern off at the waist. Do the adjustment and then stick it back to the bottom section, blending the waist accordingly. Feel free to send me a photo of your adjusted pattern pieces if that isn’t clear or doesn’t help. My email is [e-mail]. Let me know if it helps, Thanks, Aneka

[@annfulcher407]

Very informative, but could you show us how to do a FBA on a corset bodice with 5-7 (10-14) panels?

[@ruthirwin8222]

I have a couple of dresses to do for autumn winter wedfings then im updating my nightwear with me made and ill need this for sure lol

[@MadetoSew]

So glad it’s useful. X

[@stecmp]

Great as usual!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you so much Stefy.

[@stecmp]

@@MadetoSew ❤️

[@nehatank9903]

HI Anika . Thanks for ur videos . They r really informative. I've learnt quite a bit about darts. Would you be able to do a video on how to pattern a dart if ur designing an outfit from scratch? Many thanks Neha

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Neha, do you mean how to draft a dart onto a bodice block? Usually the dart will be drafted into the block if you are making a darted block.

[@valeriepoole1535]

Hi Aneka, I think I have finally got my head around this adjustment. Just one question, does this alteration make any difference to the other parts of the pattern, ie. side back, back etc. Would you need to make any adjustments to those pattern pieces? Hope not, thanks again for all your help. Val.

[@MadetoSew]

Glad I could help Val. No it doesn't really affect the other pieces. You might just want to true the side seams. 😊

[@Paloumi]

@@MadetoSew Hello, I had the same question :) What does "true a seam" mean please? Do you take off the small excess at the armhole of the back side piece? Thanks!

[@MadetoSew]

@@Paloumi "True" a seam, means to make it the same size, length, or maybe shape (depending on the seam), as the seam it has to sew to. You shouldn't need to adjust the back. 😃

[@Saltysweetpea4769]

Hi Aneke when doing a FBA I found it alters the shape of the armhole curve by raising it. How do you deal with this when cutting out the pattern please? Thanks love your videos 😊

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Adrienne, it will alter the shape of the armhole, but it has not adjusted the stitching line. Usually this shape adjustment is not an issue (so you do not need to change it) in the final garment. Do let me know if you run into any problems. Aneka x

[@Saltysweetpea4769]

@@MadetoSew huge thank you & love the way you explain things-very clear . ❤️

[@sarahbakewell3323]

I’ve just done my 1st FBA following your tutorial. I found it really straightforward and easy to follow, thank you for such clear instructions. I just have one question, as there is now extra length in both the side front and front pattern pieces, in my case, 3.8cm, do the back pattern pieces, on my pattern the back has side back and back pieces, have to have the extra length added in too? I can’t see how it’ll go together without altering the back pieces too

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Sarah, Thank you for your kind words. You don’t need to alter the back pattern pieces. The front should have extra length in the side seam, which is now incorporated inside the dart, so actually the length hasn’t been adjusted here. The centre front extra length is to fit over the fuller bust, so that should work just fine. Let me know if this helps? Aneka

[@sarahbakewell3323]

Hi Aneka, thanks for your reply, yes that makes sense. I’ve made a toile up after doing the FBA & it worked beautifully, all the seams lined up perfectly and I had the extra across the bust that I needed. Thank you again for such a wonderful tutorial!

[@MadetoSew]

@@sarahbakewell3323 That's brilliant. So pleased it worked and you are pleased with it.

[@MadetoSew]

@@sarahbakewell3323 So pleased I could help Sarah. Glad it worked! 😊

[@jamfx7942]

I have a 10inch difference between my Full Bust and my Overbust. Does a FBA work for such a drastic change to a pattern or does it distort too much and a different method is needed? I haven't found a FBA Tutorial that makes such a drastic Adjustment as i would need to (B cup to a G/H cup). I would love to utilize Commercial patterns and adjust them. at the moment I don't use patterns at all and Drape the fabric on my body and cut it out as I generally cant find patterns to fit without major adjustments. would love to know if this method would still work for me. thankyou!

[@MadetoSew]

When doing an FBA on a princess seam you might want to do a combination of this method. And the other method that I shared in the video; simply adding to the curved part of the pattern. This will help to reduce the distortion. If you are doing an FBA on a pattern with a dart, rather than having one pivot point to the armhole, I would have another point higher up where the armhole and end of shoulder meet. You could also put another pivot point in the centre of the shoulder. Having more pivot points will help to prevent as much pattern distortion. I have done very large FBA's 4-5", (I presume yours is 10" total difference so 5" on the pattern) with customers in classes with me before. I would just make sure you make a sample of the bodice afterwards as you may need to do some more tweaking. The other option is to draft your own patterns from a draped bodice on your body. I do hope this has helped. Good luck!

[@jamfx7942]

Thankyou so much for your reply! I think I will definitely try your suggestions. (And yes 10inch total so 5 inch on the pattern) I've just been unsure if it would still be approached the same way. I think I will just have to experiment with it a little bit.

[@MadetoSew]

@@jamfx7942 Glad I could help. Basically it is doable, you might just need a few pivot points so you aren't distorting the pattern too much. Let me know how you get on. Happy to help. Aneka x

[@rosalindabarrett7508]

Thank you

[@AnitaMcB__]

Great tutorial. What about a sba for a waist dart only, no side dart?

[@terrywilliams9327]

Anita, to make the waist smaller on a princess seam, just use a pivot and slide method. Nancy Zieman's book on fitting is a great resource.

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Anita, I have the SBA for Princess Seams coming as well for you! 😊 In terms of a bodice with only a waist dart you have two options. Have you seen this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXLEmGhondClac0. Option 1 is that you could move your waist dart onto the side seam using this method: madetosew.com/how-to-dart-manipulation/ (so that it becomes a bust dart), then complete the SBA using the first tutorial I shared (above). Of course the SBA would possibly remove the bust dart (depending on the size of the dart and your adjustment) and mean that you don't have a waist dart. OR Option 2 is that you can use the tutorial above, but you will be cutting through the side seam and not a dart; it will shorten the side seam by doing the SBA so you would need to amend the back side seam length as well (as this may or may not be the right thing for you). Does that help? Aneka

[@kellyross4801]

I realize this is several years old, but I will ask anyway... If I require BOTH a lower bust apex AND an FBA, which do I do first? Thanks in advance. 😁

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Kelly, for an FBA on a princess seam I would lower it first and then do the adjustment. Hope that helps! Aneka x

[@skaneforever1450]

Great tutorial. How do you determine where the lines should be in a strapless bodice? Thank you.

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you. Most of the lines should be the same? The horizontal and bottom vertical line. The line to the armhole will of course be harder to achieve. You could aim for the armhole (it doesn't matter too much where you pivot this, approx armhole is fine) and then once complete smooth over the top line of the strapless shape. Aneka

[@skaneforever1450]

@@MadetoSew Thank you for your quick reply. I will try this as soon as possible. Regards, Anna

[@carolinebrent2154]

What tracing/pattern paper do you use please? also I'm an F cup and am looking at a pattern with a D cup, I'm not sure what I should be adding to the adjustment, all very new to this and there doesn't appear to be a table of measurements on the web I can refer to for this, it's confusing me, thank you

[@elizabethcasper8385]

Question: If a pattern requires both a full bust adjustment AND a change to the location of the bust apex, which adjustment is done first to one's pattern?

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Elizabeth, I would do length or position then the FBA or bust cup adjustment. Most of the time that will work best. However so consider when doing a FBA on a bodice pattern with darts the bust apex does move when the adjustment takes place. Hope this helps. Aneka

[@elizabethcasper8385]

@@MadetoSew Aneka: Thank you for your prompt reply. I am working on 3 projects. Project #1: Vogue 9236 Princess; Project #2: V9226 Shoulder Dart & Countor Dart (i.e. waist dart); Project #3: V9226 Bolero Jacket (with crossover to button @ neck -- NO DART) Difference btwn High Bust & Bust is 5". Pattern made with Size B Cup. Hence, FBA will be 1.5". Following the helpful hints in the multitude of podcasts watched over the past 3-Days (feels as though I've been attending a 3-Day seminar with water breaks & lunch break), I am selecting the pattern size with the pattern bust matching my high bust measurement, in order to minimize distortion to the upper body fit (arms, neck, chest). Vogue Bust Size 22 is 44; my High Bust is 43. Your examples for FBA showed no changes to the bust apex -- Only a change to the fullness needed to accommodate the fuller bust. Naturally, by adding the material for fullness, the length of the front panels changed. Unless I hear otherwise from you, I will create "test" garment (with muslin) by updating the length of the torso to the correct location of the bust apex; followed by the FBA. If you have any other suggestions which may help with this matronly figure (think Queen Elizabeth II), they are welcome. Grateful to find your podcasts.

[@MadetoSew]

@@elizabethcasper8385 Lovely to hear that I have been able to help you with these three exciting projects. I would move the Bust Apex first for the princess seam pattern (kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5-6oWt8mrSEp68 this video shows how, although I am sure you have already watched it). You may also find that you need to amend the shape of the princess seam pattern pieces; often with a fuller bust you may find you are flatter in the upper chest; but this is hard to determine without a toile. So do you best on the pattern. Get the bust apex in the right location, complete the FBA then fit the sample to see if any more shaping needs to occur. Your idea to choose the pattern size based on your high bust is a good one. Although I would always teach that the correct method is to find your high bust, then add the cup size of the pattern and choose the size of the pattern based on this measurement. The big four pattern companies, Vogue etc. can often have shoulders on the large size and sometimes more ease than I would like. Which means choosing a smaller size, your idea of choosing the bust based on your high bust works for most students. Let me know how you get on. Good luck! Aneka

[@valeriepoole1535]

Hi Aneka, it's been a while since i last messaged you. Where on earth does the time go? I haven't done much sewing since my husband passed away last year, haven't been in the mood really. But I think I have got my sew jo back again now. The question I wanted to ask you is, I have a pattern New Look N 6692 which has a square neckline. However the top of it is in 2 pieces. Meaning that the top of the bottom half is square at the top with no visible corner of the armhole, which is in the top half of the pattern. I have put the two together to do a fba but somehow the adjustment throws the top half of the pattern out of line for the top of the dress. (there are 2 separate pattern pieces one for the bottom and one for the top if you can imagine that). I have tried a couple of times and different ways of trying to correct it, but with no luck, have you any suggestions how I can do a fba without the top part of the pattern being thrown out of line? (pattern changes to leaning to the left/right visually and doesn't look right). Hope you are well, and still enjoying Australia if you are still there. Will hopefully come to one of your workshops here in England when you return, many thanks and best wishes Val Poole.

[@phillasbury9336]

Hi Aniker, I withdraw my question. I see from your website you have a couple of paid plans - I'll consider joining one of these - thank you!

[@MadetoSew]

Thank you Phill.

[@solesuna]

my bust apax is about 2.5cm lower then the one on most paterns. Can I just split the pattern on the pattern‘s bustline to move it?

[@MadetoSew]

If you don't have a princess seam you can use this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZqTVdGSkn8iUe5Y Just cut and lower the dart or princess seam to reach your bust apex (2.5cm lower).

[@tracyfrost]

Hi Aneka will you do at SBA on a princess line as well?

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Tracy, Yes, this is already filmed. It will be launched over the next couple of weekends, alongside other new content.

[@Angelika5378]

Question about method 2: what if my pattern doesn't have the seam allowance included? Do I need to add one first before doing the lines and cuts? Or can i just leave out the lower cut that goes through the bust point? Also can you do the same if you want to make the adjustment smaller? but pivoting to the right instead of the left?

[@MadetoSew]

You can do the adjustment without seam allowances, just cut to the edge of the paper, rather than the stitching line. Yes you can, or you can shave off the fullest part of the curve. I have a video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4GxkGSbbZx_btk

[@Angelika5378]

@@MadetoSew thank you:)

[@Angelika5378]

@@MadetoSew I have another question. My pattern has ease added to the side part of the princess seam. how do I remove that? That top will have a heavier interfacing and a lining and just thinking about having to gater that up to fit the center fron piece makes me not want to do it

[@MadetoSew]

@@Angelika5378 You can cut across the pattern to remove it. I am pretty certain I show it in this drafting Princess Seam video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kHa7koWZa9Kfnas but let me know if I don't and it isn't clear. You basically cut across and remove from the princess seam but not the side seam. Hope that helps. A

[@Angelika5378]

@@MadetoSew that shows how to add length to the side piece if there are discrepancies. But I'm sure to remove it it's just the other way round:) so intead of opening the cut you overlay the cut pieces^^. Thank you so much:)

[@desertdavidsons]

I have a pattern that doesn't have the grainline parallel to the centre front. How would I adjust for this?

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Nicole, where is the grainline? I apologise for the delay I was on holiday and then unwell with food poisoning. It might be as simple as adding a grainline and then doing the adjustment and then re drawing the grainline you have if it’s on the bias or horizontal.

[@desertdavidsons]

@@MadetoSew thanks for your reply. I hope you had a lovely holiday and are fully recovered! The grain line is at a 55 degree angle to the centre front. I wanted to send a photo of the pattern piece but I don't think I can on this platform.

[@desertdavidsons]

I wasn't sure whether to use the centre front line instead of the grain line or if that will impact the drape of the piece.

[@MadetoSew]

@@desertdavidsons Hi Nicole, you can email me a picture ([e-mail]) if that helps? Is the grain line like this on both pieces? To do the adjustment I would probably use the CF line and then put the grainline back as originally planned for the construction of the garment. Feel free to send a photo.

[@sewlouisa]

Maybe I’ve missed something but surely by removing the inch at the side seam you’ve just negated what you have added for the full bust.

[@MadetoSew]

You only want to remove it at the bottom of the pattern piece at the side seam. Not all the way up. Of course it does depend how large this pattern piece is. If it’s just a cup piece then you might not want to remove it. But you need to consider what it is joining to. If the pattern piece extends to the waist, or just above the waist then you probably want to remove it. As otherwise your making the pattern larger in that area too. Rather than just at the full part of the bust. I hope that makes it clearer? Aneka

[@sewlouisa]

@@MadetoSew yes makes totally sense. As someone who has a lot of fluff around the tummy area I would be inclined to keep it and add it to the joining pieces. But then to get a pattern fitting in the chest area it always too small in the hip.

[@MadetoSew]

@@sewlouisa Glad that makes sense and that I could help with the explanation.

[@sewingmachines6369]

👌👌👌

[@MadetoSew]

💖

[@karinmohr9997]

I have a 7" difference - Do I do anything different?

[@MadetoSew]

Hi Karin, you should be able to complete the same process. It will look a bit different to mine, as the adjustment is larger. The curve will be larger and you will have to come in more at the side seam waist. I would make a sample to check the shape of the curve, it might need tweaking. Thanks, Aneka

[@SeamsToCultivateDignity]

How about a split double FBA to account for the boob bubble at the sides? JKLMN cups I'm somewhere in the JK cup range but blowning up so ... Double Bubble. How might one go about that? 😜 I have drafted this out as youve shown and pulled out passed drafts from other sources. There is no allowance for my anime boob bubbles out to the side. Yes, I am real. Since there's an extra 5 inches add I had to decrease that at the waist. I choose to come in a 2.5 cm at the side and to 3 cm dip back into the princess seam. Plus decreasing with a dart at the center of our creation to create that side bubble with what's left of our darting.. about 6 cm. It's not perfect but it bubbles out for boob space. This is the closest any draft has come to looking like it might possibly be a working/ reasonable draft. Now to cut our toile.