How to Gap your Harmonica Reeds for Optimum Bendability

[@themastershandsdean]

I so enjoyed my first video from you. I can't wait to watch more and learn more. Thank you so much.

[@HARPSMITH900]

I’m pleased you found this episode useful. Search “HARPSMITH” on this KZbin channel for binge worthy videos. Thank you!

[@glenhenning9261]

If you also find slow talkers like this painfully slow, just speed the vid up to 1.75, problem solved. It's worth watching, excellent information!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanks Glen for this reminder.

[@Czarnoprochowe]

You are simply amazing. Thank you very much for contribution for the society. Not many so talented craftsman are there and man you have ability to entertain during teaching. I'm grateful

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thank you for the kind words. More content on the way! Kinya

[@MrRezillo]

Amazing vid. I've never worked on my harp before, but I'm getting into it. Huge thanks; this is incredibly helpful.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx for watching. Let us know how you progress with your Harp Tech efforts. Kinya

[@HARPSMITH900]

You are correct. I have worked on hundreds of HOHNER reed plates and can report that sometimes a HOHNER Technician would be a tad more aggressive

[@ikust007]

Such an exceptional teacher you are .

[@AdamWestUS]

Thank you for this excellently thorough video. As a player and teacher who has just started to learn the craft I appreciate your very clear explanations!! 2023 was my first SPAH and i leard a bit from sitting with Richard. Hopefully I get to thank you in person in Tulsa!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Adam, did you catch my reference to the '65 Dozier "Batman Theme"😉 Thanx for watching. Stay tuned for new episodes!

[@AdamWestUS]

@@HARPSMITH900 I did😄

[@orangecaprinun]

Omg that's like getting a glimpse of the endgame boss in the intro of a video game or a movie or something lol. i just got my first couple of harmonicas a week ago and sure enough i felt like one was choking a little on that 2 draw, needless to say it's scrap parts now for future projects, sadly it was my favorite of the two, the lee oskar harmonic minor.. But I'm finding this video of GREAT benefit knowing where i went wrong and learning the proper etiquette of how to handle the delicate mechanism inside, which i honestly pretty much mutilated. Can't wait to watch all your other videos, I know i'm just a hobbyist and nowhere near a real harp tech but i'm really loving this discipline. Thank you so much for sharing all of this knowledge!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx Vulcan. I've been tinkering and building stuff since the early 1960's, but harmonicas are by far away the most satisfying. To work on a precision instrument--then be able to make music with it is nothing short of AMAZING! Keep watching this space ... so much to show and so little time ...

[@ajfedor]

Yep! "Play the notes people wanna hear." I love it!🙂

[@HARPSMITH900]

I'm glad you found this episode enlightening. Thanx for watching!

[@PepperoniePlays]

Love your videos, always so informative and well explained. It's good to see and learn how to fiddle around this tiny weird instrument. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I am always looking forward to watching your videos!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Absolutely thrilling for me to discover then share my findings with fellow harmonica enthusiasts! Thank you

[@davidhakes3884]

Hello Harpsmith, I am new to taking up the Harmonica and was delighted to find your channel as I like to service all my own equipment, so new subscriber for you and will share your channel around, Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thank you David and welcome to the whacky and seductive world of HARPSMONICAS!

[@karolzdanowicz8409]

I got my 1st harmonica like week ago, so i just started. Its Suzuki hunning tremolo G harmonica. I decided to learn the basics 1st and went all in for and got marine band crossover. I was confused how inferior it was compared to tremolo with force needed and responce time. Felt i stuggle instead of having fun learning. With your tips and some thivkness measuring stips im finishing draw side that got as good as the tremolo harp. Thanks a lot!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Good for you! Of course both the Hohner MB Crossover and Suzuki Tremolo harmonicas have free reeds, but that's where the similarities end. Tremolo harmonicas have two reeds for each note--tune slightly off from each other--creating the wavering "tremolo" effect. This type of harmonica design makes it impossible to play new "bent" notes--only the notes that were manufactured into the harmonica (like a piano). The Hohner MB Crossover instrument is apart of the Diatonic Harmonicas family. With 10 reeds on the BLOW side and 10 reeds on the DRAW side, this provides the player with 20 natural notes. The real magic, and what makes the Diatonic Harmonica so compelling and soulful, is that with standard bending techniques, you will be able to produce 12 new notes! Keep in mind with the DRAW reeds, you are sucking negative, dry room temperature air through the instrument--and because DRAW reeds #1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 are pitched higher than its BLOW counterpart, you will be able to set the Gap lower. Conversely, on the BLOW Reed Plate, you are blowing moist positive breath through the instrument, therefore, your gapping should be greater.

[@Raglafart101]

First class information, I never knew about the Zero point! I'd be really interested to know the gaps all the way to 10 hole and the adjustments for Over Blowing and Drawing? Excellent, Thank you

[@HARPSMITH900]

For OVERBENDING, try these offsets: BLOW Plate .006" for Reeds 1, 2 .005" for Reeds 3, 4 .004" for Reeds 5, 6 .003" for Reeds 7, 8, 9 .002" for Reed 10 DRAW Plate .005" for Reeds 1, 2 .004" for Reeds 3, 4 .003" for Reeds 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 .002" for Reed 10 * adjust accordingly for Reed Plate Slots that have been Embossed (sized) and or Chamfered

[@docsharmonicablues]

@@HARPSMITH900 I assume that these values are also for a C harmonica ... so for harmonicas in other keys, what is the correct approach? For example, harps in lower keys: use larger gaps/offsets ??

[@mjremy2605]

Fascinating. So beautifully illustrated. I finally understand how a harmonica works. Thank you!

[@leonaucoin4664]

Brilliant! Thank you for this.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx for watching HARPSMITH Benchcraft. I'm glad you found the content useful.

[@fsoliver]

Harpsmith I really love your videos on the precision of optimizing a harmonica. My question is, what is your suggested gap (feeler gauge) for the free end of BLOW & DRAW holes # 1, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx for watching! A terrific BLUZ Harmonica "starting" point for both the BLOW/DRAW will be the following: .007" for Reeds 1,2 .006" for Reeds 3,4 .005" for Reeds 5,6 .004" for Reeds 7,8 .003" for Reeds 9 .002" for Reeds 10

[@fsoliver]

@@HARPSMITH900 Thanks so much.

[@leonaucoin4664]

​@@HARPSMITH900... Is this your gauge chart for every harmonica key or do the gauges change, depending on the key?

[@HARPSMITH900]

@@leonaucoin4664 Typically, the calibrations I demonstrated work well for Long Slotted Harmonica: G, Ab, A, B, Bb, C For Short Slotted Harmonicas: Db, D, Eb, E, F, F#, experiment by dropping the Gap by .001"

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

Thank you! Please leave posted. Im cleaning an old Ekco by Hohner. Im using baking soda and apple cider vinegar. Im trying to leave the plates alone as it sounded very Bavarian when I rescued it. Im trying to leave the original nails intact and just chemically clean it without disturbing the reeds. I may have to get a toothbrush and toothpaste to remove very old accreatian and saliva. Im trying to preserve the original comb but it needsthorough sanitation. I have worked on my dads old The Super... so i know somewhat what km getting into. Thank you!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Chris, you are taking on a nice Sunday afternoon project! My preference is to carefully dismantle the reed plates from the Pear Wood comb, then use an ultrasonic bath (with EuroSonic Solution) to deep clean. Next carefully apply with your finger pad, a thin layer of Happich Semi Chrome onto the reed plates (avoiding the reeds if you’re not planning on retuning), then buff with microfiber cloth. Repeat until you achieve the desired result. Watch my video about upgrading the HOHNER Marine Band 1896 harmonica for tips on removing (repurpose) the nails. For the comb, flat sand (400g - 1,000g). Use Super Glue to repair broken tines. Add baking soda on joints to accelerate Super Glue set time and strengthen the joint. Assemble with the original nails and admire your handy work 😅

[@leonaucoin4664]

Can you verify if you are doing work on the D harp? Thank you

[@jpphilippe313]

I never dared doing this ! You are just great ! I'll try and follow your advices

[@HARPSMITH900]

Terrific. Keep me posted of your progress. You can also email at

[@leftymagoo2710]

Man . UR Grrrrrrreat! I enjoy your relaxed style of exploration and explanation. I am re-exploring the harp after seeing Howard Levy’s You Tube thing about playing chromatically on a diatonic harp. I like Howard’s musical style and abilities. However, you combine musical abilities and the technical know how for the “ everyday” player . Thanks🙏

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hey Lefty, thank you for your kind words. As I mentioned in an earlier respond, I am in the workshop significantly more hours than in the studio and/or bandstand. I am therefore, consider myself the quintessential "everyday" player--personally testing and calibrating all HARPSMITH harmonicas before they leave my shop. p.s. I have been investing many hours on perfecting Brendan Power's "overbending" platform. You maybe interested in sampling my prototype. It is specifically designed for the second position bluz harmonica player interested in adding seven more musical notes to their repertoire. If so, contact me at [e-mail]

[@davidkulmaczewski4911]

Nice video, lots of great info. A few questions as I watch it... Is the zero point gap ever too low initially? Or, what if you over adjust and make it too low? Can you adjust the gap upward? What is the benefit of changing the zero point gap? What improves when you lower it, and what goes wrong if it's too low? Should you 'plink' the reed while adjusting the zero point gap? What is the pattern for end gap versus key, i.e., does it increase for lower keys and decrease for higher keys? If *7/6/6* is a starting point for a C harp, then what would the numbers be for a G harp? An F harp? Thanks!

[@davidkulmaczewski4911]

Another question... I just bought a set of feeler gauges and measured a few harmonicas (Hohner Crossovers). It appears that all of them already have zero point gaps *below* 0.001 inches, i.e., a 0.001" leaf won't go to the rivet pad even with rocking (they jam up about 1/16" away from the pad). The Crossover is a higher-priced Hohner model... have these already been tweaked to insure a small ZPG? Thanks!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi David, Q1: Is the zero point gap ever too low initially? A1: Yes. In fact, for my Overbend customers, I will make it a -.001" Zero Point Q2: what if you over adjust and make it too low? Can you adjust the gap upward? A2: watch 30:59 "The Lumberjack". This technique works well for correcting the Zero Point gaps Q3: What is the benefit of changing the zero point gap? A3: The Harp Tech always endeavor to adjust the gapping to match the unique breath pressure of the player. This will be immediately obvious to improved bendability, volume and tone. Q4: what goes wrong if it's too low? A4: the harmonica will be "stiff and stuffy" to play Q5: Should you 'plink' the reed while adjusting the zero point gap? A5: Yes Q6: What is the pattern for end gap versus key, i.e., does it increase for lower keys and decrease for higher keys? A6: Yes. If you were to hold the reed plate on end, then sight down the row of reeds. You will find the gaps produce a pleasing and logical slope from #1 through #10

[@davidkulmaczewski4911]

@@HARPSMITH900Awesome info, thanks so much for the response! If I may clarify..... can you explain if/how the end gapping changes for separate harmonicas in different keys? That is, if the end gap on Reed #2 is 0.007" *on a middle C harmonica* then will the end gap on Reed #2 *on a low G harmonica* be smaller, the same, or larger? How about Reed #2 on a high F harmonica? Thanks again.

[@HARPSMITH900]

By the way David, I meant to answer the above Q1 with a "negative -.001" gap All harmonica reeds are machined with weight and dimensions unique to that particular pitch, and depending on the location (breath pattern) of the reed, i.e. BLOW or DRAW, your gap setting will probably change. This is why I encourage Harp Techs to experiment with various gaps--then document the "best performing" settings onto the Reed Calibration Chart. You may discover, for example, the middle gapping on your C Harmonica/Reed #4 BLOW slightly different from the identical reed that shows up on your Bb Harmonica/Reed #4 DRAW, or your F Harmonica/Reed #2 DRAW.@@davidkulmaczewski4911

[@docsharmonicablues]

This is an excellent video, but just a little bit more information would make it even better: are the gaps/offsets larger for harmonicas that are lower in key (e.g. A or low F harps) ?? Do the zero points stay the same, or do they also differ according to the key of harmonica ??

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Doc, the answer is YES to all of the above. The offsets (gapping) recommendations that I laid out in the video are a terrific "starting point". In fact, you will probably discover those settings work well for your lower tuned harmonicas as well. Adjust to YOUR breath pressure. Kinya

[@docsharmonicablues]

@@HARPSMITH900 Thank you so much for your quick reply !! I will incorporate your advice immediately into my "set-up procedures". All the best, Kinya !

[@danschultz7029]

VERY helpful! Thank you so much.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Dan, I am pleased you found the video helpful. Let me know if there is anything else that requires clarification about our harmonica.

[@rogerwilson6337]

Hello Mr Harpsmith. Thank you for another amazing video. Quick question. Will a hohner crossover reed plate fit in a blue moon special 20 comb? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Roger. No, I'm afraid that won't be possible. The Crossover is a part of the Marine Band family of harmonicas, distinguishable by the groove that was milled into the leading edge of the reed plates--front of cover plates nest into this slot. For your Blue Moon comb, you can use Special 20, Rocket and Amp reed plates.

[@rogerwilson6337]

@HARPSMITH900 Thank you, Mr. Pollard. You saved me from a lot of money spent unnecessarily. Not to mention the headaches.

[@HARPSMITH900]

@@rogerwilson6337 Awesome! Glad to help

[@PatK-SoCal-USA]

Harpsmith, thx 4 such a GR8 show of a skillset. I only had one Chromatic, but 13 diff Honers from Bb to F# that I kept in my leather bag. I saw in concert at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium: Paul Butterfield, Charlie Musclewhite, War, and a few other extraordinary harmonica players. Question: How do you fully clean saliva from the reeds??? K85 Flyboy

[@HARPSMITH900]

WOW, that Santa Monica Concert must of been AWESOME! To safely and "thoroughly" clean harmonica reeds: (1) disassemble your instrument (2) remove and place the reed plates into an Ultrasonic Tank with one capful of EuroSonic Cleanser (3) run two 10 minute cycles (4) remove moisture, then reassemble BONUS: for harmonicas with composite combs, including ABS, Acrylic, Corian, Resin, etc. you can place the entire assembled harmonica in the Ultrasonic Tank.

[@huevideo]

Hello Mr. Pollard, thank you very much for your Video: I had problems to do overblows on channel 4 to 6 on an new rocket amp in C, but with your advisement I could adjust the reeds to do their job! Another comment I want to give is (please forgiveme for my bad english: I am german and out of expericence for a long time), that the zero-points in this rocket amp are much tighter than the 0.025mm you announced - am I correct? Have a nice day and happy harping: your skills in mechanics and playing are so great, thank you.

[@HARPSMITH900]

I’m pleased you found my training videos useful. You are correct-from the factory, depending on the worker, sometimes the Z-Point will be below 0.025mm (null 0.000mm)

[@norfolknwhey4787]

Hi Harpsmith! A while back I saw a post of yours that listed sources for M2 bolts & nuts for attaching coverplates… would you mind sharing that again? Or could you confirm the covers are attached using M2x10mm bolts?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Norfknwhey, for factory Hohner cover plate fasteners (including bolts, nuts and binding posts), I recommend: (1) stock piling old harmonicas and harvest the parts (2) purchase the fasteners from: www.hohnershop.com/screw-for-cover-plates-special-20-marine-band/ (3) replace the stock M2 fasteners with 1-72 fasteners, available from: micromark.com/products/round-screws-package-of-25-1-72-x-1-8?keyword=1-72%20

[@mikediehl504]

So if you set the zero point at .001" and then slide the .002" feeler gauge in isn't that going to destroy the .001" zero point on the draw reeds??

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Mike, starting with a .001" Zero Point gap is simply to establish a baseline--many players are completely satisfied with .001" and need not go any further . However, if you want your DRAW reeds to "breathe" more (especially for 2nd Position Players), increasing it another .001" to land on .002" might be to your liking (as mine ;o)

[@rickomundson]

Very informative thanks!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx for watching Rick. I'm glad you found this episode useful.

[@cincinnatipedalsteel4347]

Question: I am new to harp (playing about 10 months) and only have just started trying to learn to adjust the reeds and such. On the 3rd hole on one of my harps the draw bend is not as responsive as I’d like it to be my understanding is that the blow reed needs to be adjusted as well as the draw reed to improve the responsiveness. I made the blow reed as tight as I could while still being able to get a good note when abruptly blowing a good amount of air. I made the draw reed a slight bit wider. Did I go the right direction with each reed or should I make the draw reed tighter as well? I just don’t want to be working the wrong direction, as I am only moving them slightly due to fear of breaking them. Any tips I’m all ears. This video helped a lot but I need to get the proper tools and some feeler gauges. Right now I’m using my eyes and a toothpick Also do you recommend one method over another for those of us just starting to do work on our harps?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Cincinnati Pedal Steel, welcome to the whacky world of Harmonica Tech. SET UP YOUR WORK SPACE Unless you have super good eye site, magnification is critical for this type of close tolerance work (have you ever seen your Dentist and his team without magnification?). My harmonica reeds look as large as the driveshaft from a Buick Skylark 😆 Like a Brain Surgeon, make certain you have plenty of light on your task. For reference 150fc to 300fc (= foot candles) will be acceptable. When in a pinch, direct your LED flashlight directly onto your reed plate. I strongly recommend you invest into Feeler Gauges (as low as $8 bucks) GENERALLY: (a) BLOW reeds can be gapped wider than the DRAW reeds. This is because the BLOW reed is motivated by Positive humid air pressure, while the DRAW reed is motivated by negative dryer room air. (b) BLOW reeds #1 through #6 are pitched lower than the DRAW reeds #1 through #6. For example Reed #1 BLOW = C and Reed #1 DRAW = D. This note spread sets us up for the BENDING phenomena. For example, by positioning (shaping) your tongue properly, you will change the tone cavity (retune) in your mouth and be able to energize the lower pitched reed to produce a new note 1 semitone (1/2 step) higher--C# As much as I enjoy teaching people how to work on their harmonica, my first recommendation is always to have the new harmonica player first learn the fundamentals of playing the harmonica from experts such as David Barrett at bluesharmonica.com. This way you will be able to answer that nagging question, "Is it me or is it my harmonica"?! My favorite harmonicas are manufactured by HOHNER. The "out-of-the-box" tolerances are crazy good--specifically; Marine Band Crossover, Rocket, Amp, Special 20. This is a good place to start your journey. If you want to talk more, contact me at [[e-mail]]

[@georgesimeone6292]

I googled Pelco 5394 but couldn't find a seller, where can I get one? Also Richard Sleigh doesn't show that tool anymore on his website, are the still available somewhere? somewhere somewhere

[@HARPSMITH900]

I just completed an internet search for the Pelco 5394NM, I found them at Systems for Research [SFR.CA] select 34A.SA Bummer about Richard not offering the tools. Try Andrew Zadjac from Canada. He has terrific tools

[@georgesimeone6292]

@HARPSMITH900 thanks alot

[@georgesimeone6292]

Where can I purchase the zero point pliers?

[@HARPSMITH900]

MicroMark is a terrific resource for Small Tools: micromark.com/products/parallel-jaw-brass-lined-plier?keyword=Brass%20Lined%20Pliers

[@detharp]

where can I get the pliers for zero point setting?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello detharp, I get my small tools from MicroMark: micromark.com/products/parallel-jaw-brass-lined-plier?_pos=2&_sid=bd9177768&_ss=r

[@Ironman-harmonica]

THANKS FOR SHARING

[@HARPSMITH900]

@@Ironman-harmonica Thanx for watching. I'm glad you found the instructions useful

[@choimdachoim9491]

I recommend 1.75 playback speed. I destroyed my first harmonica at the age of 8 using these methods...didn't have feeler gauges and by overcompensating ended up with serpentine reeds.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thanx for the recommendation. I like "serpentine" ... might be the genesis to a new song idea😎

[@effsharp7]

1.75 may be a typo. He probably meant 0.75 speed

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

All I know is every time you go to regap you loosen the rivet. I've done my share of destroying Harmonicas and blunder about anyway. My first harmonica was a toy wooden one; don't remember if it was a hohner or not. I've used feeler gauges before for my h a Monica reeds. Zero gapping seems the most logical method to me. I've embossed with a penny before with crummy results so I don't recommend that method. A Stanley sheet rock knife blade seems like it might work for embossing the slot. Thanks for all the technical demonstration. Most greatful.

[@norfolknwhey4787]

@@ChrisEbbrsenthe easiest way to emboss the slot is with a small screwdriver that has interchangeable bits… remove the bit and use the tool to emboss both sides of the slot at the same time without having to move the reed. It doesn’t allow you to perform full slot embossing, but for 95% of players 1/3 slot embossing is more than enough to improve response and enable smooth overblows.

[@WhittSmith2012]

I have not tried doing this yet, but already feel confident as I've always been good with fine work, and also because you are 100 percent thorough, and most importantly, 100 percent understandable. Bravo. I'm subscribed to your channel.😊

[@ChrisEbbrsen]

Many thanks!

[@blunij]

Long time pro blues player here that has avoided working on my harps to the dismay of my wallet! I know you encourage Harp Techs to experiment with various gaps--then document the "best performing" settings onto the Reed Calibration Chart. Can you give a good starting point for gapping each Reed? Also, will we see you at SPAH this year?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Referring to 28:40 on this video, most of my BLUZ customers prefer the following for both the BLOW and DRAW reeds: .007" for Reeds 1,2 .006" for Reeds 2,3 .005" for Reeds 4,5 .004" for Reeds 6,7 .003" for Reeds 8,9 .002" for Reeds 10

[@blunij]

@@HARPSMITH900 Thank you!

[@howardcoleman4748]

I watch this and go how do you make it gap and make it draw of overblown like this incredible so cool teacher or should I say pro or professor wow

[@HARPSMITH900]

Thank you for watching Howard. Keep watching this space and my website for new content and products: harpsmith.com

[@eddiemartin3618]

Same measurements for gap on stainless reeds? Seydel?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Eddie, although my focus are with Brass and Bronze reeds, I’m thinking these measurements would be applicable to the SS reeds. Give it a try and let us know your thoughts.

[@eddiemartin3618]

@@HARPSMITH900 your wedge style adjustment has really helped me. I have saved 3 harps in just a few minutes. Thank you!

[@HARPSMITH900]

BRILLIANT!

[@uripmargono946]

All I want to know badly is how can you hit the draw bending notes in hole 2 n 3 that easily? What or how did you do it? The tongue, lips and jaw shape, position or what. Thank you.

[@HARPSMITH900]

When I bend, I am keenly aware of the position of my tongue and by extension, the jaw and lips. My students, learning to bend found using "phonics" useful for positioning the tongue into the proper location for bending. For example; on the C harmonica, when DRAW bending on hole #3, enunciate on the : "" for the half step bend (1 semitone) = Bb "for the whole step bend (2 semitones) = A " for the whole step & half step (2 1/2 semitones) = Ab To learn the skills of bending in the shortest time possible, I recommend you go to David Barrett's for instruction.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Oops, my phonics were edited out! TRY THIS: for Bb (1/2 step, 1 semitone) DRAW Bend for A (whole step) DRAW Bend for Ab (whole and 1/2 step) DRAW Bend

[@pitifigola-luthierdearmonicas]

Hi, friend! She wanted to ask him where she could buy a tuning table. Ms. possible?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello, Dick Sjoberg (Sweden), the inventor of the Tuning Table sold his company, MASTER HARP to Jon Ingram in Berkeley California, USA. Jon built many Tuning Tables but decided the economics were not viable and closed his business last year. Sometimes I will see the MASTER HARP Tuning Table for sale on eBay. Good luck

[@pitifigola-luthierdearmonicas]

@@HARPSMITH900 Thank you very much for the information, I'll be keeping an eye on Ebay, so far I haven't seen one, I don't know if they upload it under a different name or as Masterharp, I'll keep an eye on it. Thank you, friend. solutions from Argentina. I love your videos.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Good luck my friend!

[@detharp]

on steel reeds too?❤

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hey Deth-Harp, the fundamentals for gapping the diatonic harmonica are the same for Brass, Stainless Steel and Phosphor Bronze. The tolerances will be adjusted according to the unique breath pressure of the player. Good question😉

[@wardje53]

hello, what is that red mark on the third draw reed?

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Ward, at all harmonica factories, the machinist marks the stock with an indelible ink pen--identifying the beginning and end of the reed milling process. After they punch the reeds out from the stock (Brass, Phosphor Bronze, Stainless Steel), they would randomly select reeds, then measure the relative pitch against a tuner. The marking informs the machinist where, in the process, they would have to "tweak" the cutting tool. Damn good question!

[@wardje53]

@@HARPSMITH900 Very interesting to know and thanks for the detailed explanation 👍 and have a nice day.

[@HARPSMITH900]

I'm delighted you found the content useful. Don't hesitate to view the other HARPSMITH Benchcraft episodes.@@wardje53

[@wardje53]

@@HARPSMITH900 I will definitely do that 👍

[@cincinnatipedalsteel4347]

I wonder why they created the tuning with the flipping of the notes at hole 7?? Would be so much easier if it didn’t flip.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hi Cincinnati, I believe Richter's design was to enable players to perform German Folk Songs (oom-pah, oom-pah) on this layout. The lower end of the harmonica held down the chord and bass line, while the mid to upper part of the harmonica played a major scale and encouraged melodic playing. There are novel tunings available today that favor the 2nd position (Cross Harp) player; where all notes on the DRAW side are higher--enabling Draw Bending. Check out Power Bending and Wilde Tunings...

[@cincinnatipedalsteel4347]

@@HARPSMITH900yes actually the Wilde tuning is the one I have fell in love with! I also have a powerbender but the Wilde is more simple for me to remember since it’s essentially repeating holes 2-3-4 on 6-7-8. The only thing is draw bending the higher notes is certainly something that takes a lot of time to get. I’m able to bend them now but am working on my control. Thanks for the info on the Richter tuning! It’s stood the test of time that’s for sure so who am I to question it. Love your videos. Very well explained.

[@HARPSMITH900]

The trick to bending the shorter, higher pitched reeds is to move the tip top of your tongue closer to the back of your front teeth. Phonically speak (while sucking) “Shh”. This will tune your tone cavity to energize the intended target notes.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Go for it 👌

[@miranda_585]

Ola ,buenas . plis subtitulado en español.gracias 👍

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hola Juan Carlos, gracias por ver este episodio. Permítanme considerar la posibilidad de transcribir a otros idiomas. Buena sugerencia.

[@bobshuwab1988]

Comprehensive.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Hello Bob, I'm glad you found this episode useful

[@georgidimitrov6054]

Awesome! Now I know Harmonica Kung-Fu!

[@HARPSMITH900]

Excellent Georgi! Now it's your turn to set up you next favorite harmonica.

[@urbantone]

Aah interesting and very informative, but using inch in a German made harp. come on it’s metric made.

[@HARPSMITH900]

HA! Fair point.

[@seanfaherty]

yeah, you think about this too much. just play

[@HARPSMITH900]

Sage advise Sean! Guilty as charged. I spend more hours on the bench than on the bandstand😝

[@seanfaherty]

@@HARPSMITH900I should follow my own advice

[@AdamWestUS]

​@@HARPSMITH900😅

[@haraldgundersen7303]

Blow reed zero gap all holes 0.0254 mm. (0.001 inch). Draw reed zero gap all holes: 0.0508 mm. (0.002 inch). Blow/Draw free end hole 2: 0.1778 mm. (0.007 inch) Blow/Draw free end hole 3: 0.1524 mm. (0.006 inch) Overbending drop slightly more. Blow/Draw free end hole 4: 0.1524 mm. (0.006 inch) Overbending drop slightly more.

[@HARPSMITH900]

Right. These reed offsets are a good place to start dialing in your preferences

[@salvatoreprisco6857]

harpit's like a clock ,😬☠️☠️

[@HARPSMITH900]

Tik Tok!