How to Get Perfect Auto Body Panels - Block Sanding Primer Surfacer

[@keithshilt5549]

I believe that this is the most down to earth educational demonstration of body preparation that I've seen on you tube thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Keith - I appreciate that :)

[@peterbutcher562]

Very informative and nicely paced. This guy presents his channel in a lovely unpretentious way and deserves more success.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - nice to hear. Have a good weekend :)

[@cal48koho]

wow. so many tricks to learn from a real master!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the kind words Hugh - have a good weekend :)

[@TheRaulr151]

love this channel and this guy. Down to earth and to very informative. Me as a DIY'er love this stuff!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks UPK - glad you saw it. Every shop I've worked at frowned on putting filler on anything but bare metal. Sometimes you would get away with sneaking some filler over primer if your boss wasn't around. Just had to make sure you primed it quick to hide it. That's the truth too ... it was a sign you didn't know what you were doing :)

[@edwinmendija8087]

Only bodywork channel I watch...thank you soooooo much!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate it - you'll get good - I promise :)

[@gergemall]

Great stuff Jerry. You've taught me so much as a dyi guy .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad to hear it Jon - have a good week :)

[@StoneyBrownTV]

You sir are the absolute truth to paint and bodywork! I've learned more than I can list in the comments in the now last year I've been subscribed to your channel. I'm looking forward to doing more bodywork simply from how much my knowledge has increased. Thank you. 😁

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I appreciate that. Keep watching, I promise you'll be fast, efficient and get your panels straight. I'll keep uploading different things that can help. Feel free to ask ?s - anything easy or not :)

[@StoneyBrownTV]

@@LakesideAutobody you've actually answered a few questions. Thank you for all your help to this point. If I come up with anything else I will ask for sure.

[@ChipsAndSparksGarage]

Good trick with the tape, to define the lines!👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the support - have a good weekend :)

[@kevinkenyon4078]

Enjoy your channel did body in 70's till 90s doing a projects again it's like a refresher course .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you enjoy it - I appreciate the comment :)

[@patrickpeterman4890]

You knowJerry, I never get tired of watching your video,s over&over; you friend out west, PATRICK. "stay safe buddy"!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank Patrick - you stay safe too - don't know what it was like before Covid anymore :)

[@DCopp]

Jerry is a master. I drive a 2019 Jetta with a ton of sharp body lines. God forbid it ever gets damaged, but if so, I hope the body man is as meticulous as you are!

[@LakesideAutobody]

How do you like those Jettas - I hear they're a great driver - like handles well and all. Have a good week end Snake :)

[@Leonsmane]

I learned a lot from you thank you very much I raised my head way up and its all because if you. Your videos gave me a new hobby I thought I would never get into ,but when I see the finish product or peoples smile on their face I knew I learned from the best!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Man... that's good to hear. I appreciate you letting me know and thanks for watching and the support. There's no better feeling than unmasking a paint job that just turned out really nice - fresh paint is beautiful!

[@toryneald234]

I have learned so much about bodywork from wacthing your vidieos. Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Tory - good thing for KZbin :)

[@toryneald234]

@@LakesideAutobody and your content...on my second small bodywork job thanks to you. So far so good. Thanks

[@BrucePierson]

Glad to see that you know how to use a spray gun. So many people just hold the trigger in and wave the gun around.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks again, I appreciate the support :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Always a good time watching your videos Jerry those body lines look great!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - have a great weekend UPK - thanks for the support as always :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

@@LakesideAutobody have a great weekend Jerry!

[@pitlion1]

Amazing transformation! I love your work. And I love your videos. One of my favorite channels!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I appreciate that - glad you enjoy them :)

[@jdwisdom9433]

I learned a few things that should help my work look better. Thanks, JD

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - hope it helps out :)

[@mrfrank5757]

After my second coat of primer surfacer, I lightly sanded with 320. My goal was to leave as much primer/surfacer on the car as possible and avoid using a guide coat. I already knew the problem areas after all the welding and body fill work. Inspecting the surface closely with a bright light I discovered at least a half dozen places that needed a very thin coat of red putty. I fixed those and thought I could take a shortcut and skip using the guide coat method on the whole car. I was wrong. Using your method I found almost a dozen low spots I didn’t even know existed. When I found the low spots I sanded them with 180 and wiped down the area with a degreaser to clean it before applying the red putty. Not sure if I need to put two coats of primer over the red putty repair areas before painting, but may do it anyway.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes, you'll want to primer those putty spots, block sand with some 240-320 and you're ready to paint. You could block those putty spots with 180-220, prime again, wet sand with 320-400 and paint too if that works better for you. Sort of depends on the problem spot I guess :)

[@roysgarage161]

Nice video using tape as a tool for body lines when doing filler sanding and primer blocking..!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - got to get over to your channel - been real busy lately for some reason :)

[@marcellemay7721]

Jerry does things the old school way. The way I learned. There are so many different ways of doing things, new products, etc. I'm not a full time body man, but I do repairs and some times full repaints on my own stuff over the years. I'm fixing rust on my 05 ford f350 right now. So, I'm using a lot of the newer products like 2k primers and I might even try some feather fill on a couple of rust patch panel areas to get them nice and straight. The verdict is still out on the high build 2k primer I just sprayed last night. It sprayed like crap in my opinion compared to the lacquer primer, even with a 1.8 tip. We'll see how it sands. I know that lacquer primer shrinks unless you have time to let it sit for a week or 2 before sanding, but it sands like a dream.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for your comment Marcel. If you reduce the 2K a bit more, it should spray pretty nice. It will not sand as well as the lacquer primer surfacer though - just my opinion. Probably depends on the brand of 2K also though. Let me know how it goes for you my friend :) Also, lacquer primer won't shrink if you use it sparingly - the way it was meant to be used. You get in trouble if you bodywork is not straight and try to make up for it with extra primer coats. In that cas you should use the feather fill - then go to the lacquer primer. Jerry

[@marcellemay7721]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. I'll try reducing the 2k next time. Maybe I'll try a little more pressure than what the can said too. It was my first time using it, so I'll spend a little more time, next time, dialing it in. It looks better now that it dried.

[@eapauto]

Hey Jerry excellent video on blocking techniques. Keep up the good work, always enjoy your videos.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - thanks. Have a good weekend :)

[@eapauto]

@@LakesideAutobody You have a great weekend too Jerry!

[@davidwood1923]

Another Great Video... Thanks Again

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome David - thanks for the support :)

[@rivermetal]

Another great video Jerry, thanks for taking the time to make and present them all!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - I like doing them - glad you appreciate them :)

[@adanvaldcontreras4283]

Always enjoying your videos.. your a great teacher 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you very much - that's nice to hear. Glad you like them :)

[@bobbyelliott1911]

Look into buying dura blocks there is dozens of blocks to help profiling

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Great instruction Jerry. Very smart to use the tape and refine one area at a time. Black as guide coat is also a very good tip. Otherwise your eyes play tricks on you. You think your ready to paint but clearly not.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - credit goes to the old fellas I worked with. One of the most important lessons was when I was fiddling around with a panel trying to get it super close before filler. This guy was keeping an eye on me, got fed up, came over and said, "Hit it low and fill it with dough!" I know that sounds bad but high spots just can't be there.

[@masryelmasry219]

Very good video .. can't find the last part video .. the final painting video .. Please, give me the link to that one .. Thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here it is - glad you liked the previous one :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqeUkKuFaMqigq8 Here's the whole play list on that vehicle - start to finish: kzbin.info/aero/PLOP9eoG14-I8rZHw-umsgT2cn7gYbj0br

[@v8man350]

Great work Jerry as always, very informative and useful, thanks for sharing and posting 👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - have a great week :)

[@dingbatdumbbodyman131]

well taught working at a very well known dealership [ TASCA ] you know top fuel dragster I've never had that opportunity was flat rate no prime and then block [time is money] !!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - have a great week :)

[@LuisRamirez-ts3rp]

Good job buddy👍🏽

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - have a great week :)

[@mr.lewelljo1971]

Another well done video. Thanks Jerry.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)

[@designsinorbit]

Hi Jerry...if you have a moment for a quick question, I've got one for ya! So I decided I'm going to paint my truck to get more practice before moving on to the Monte. It's a very large truck that has no body damage...just very faded paint. My question is- I have maroon scotch brite sanding discs that go on the DA sander. They seem to do a great job of scuffing in prep for primer. Do you think they will be sufficient? When using them I can see lots of clearcoat dust and the finish becomes very dull. They are just so much friendlier than sandpaper...I can go around curves and corners without digging in. I ask because this is a huge job and I don't want to have to do it twice! :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

As long as the paint is in good condition they will work fine. Remember, scotch brite pads will not knock down any nibs or imperfections like dust, etc in the paint like sand paper does. Look over the panel real well, feel for nibs, dust, etc - if it's good - go ahead and use the red scuff pad :)

[@designsinorbit]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you sir!

[@805ROADKING]

Looks great Bud!!☺

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍

[@KSMike1]

Have you ever used DuraBlocks and what are your thoughts on them?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Bought one to do a video on but haven't done it yet. My thoughts are that I have to have something straight and true - don't want any flexing at all or it wont tell you the truth. I'll have to use it though first - seems like it would work good on large convex or concave old school fenders - good question - have a good weekend :)

[@KSMike1]

@@LakesideAutobody you too and thanks for replying!

[@markd4838]

Very nice video... Can you use a lacquer primer surfacer if your planning to finish with urethane? thx M.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - but you can also finish with lacquer primer or sealer then paint - your choice really.

[@husky1232]

Great video jery very informative my ? Is you said you dont use any round blocks because the body is curved so with the block your using when you sand body it seem to be that the block is on the edge is this right what I'm seeing thank you for the video stay safe

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes, I'm leaning on that edge that is entering the curve or concave shape. It's totally up to the individual though - if a round type block works for you or you want to try it - great. I might even get one in the future.

[@PnwOnTour]

I just got two nice hook and loop blocks on amazon, they take 5 inch da paper, one is a mouse style and one is round, they have 6 inch also, dura gold sandpaper from there also, haven’t used them yet, trying to get most everything hook n loop, only 40-80 grit sticky now 😀🤘🏻

[@ezelk1337]

Great video as always. I have a question. You are using lacquer primer correct? Can you prime right over bare metal with lacquer? Everyone seems to say you should use metal etch or epoxy primer over bare metal. Just wondering. Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can spray lacquer primer over bar metal. You can also spray urethane primer and polyester primer over bare metal. Many primer surfacers say direct to metal or (DTM).

[@ezelk1337]

Thanks for the super quick reply back. Looks like lacquer primer may be the way to go for quick and cheap results. So this works under a base coat/clear coat with no problems?

[@rossokeefe9268]

@@ezelk1337 do not use lacquer primer over bare metal,it doesn't have the adhesion properties nor does most urethane primers..use an etch or epoxy as you were told

[@banga8080]

1 st time on your channel I'm definitely subbn

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you subbed :)

[@brianwalk108]

I have Rusty cab corners on my beloved pickup truck I was wondering if you could show us how I could stop the spread until It could be professionally repainted. Is that even feasible? I don't want it to get worse but on no good at body work and can't afford it right now, thank you in advance for any advice or info

[@LakesideAutobody]

No problem - check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2GYlYGuqZKhjMU I would find a way to squirt some oil in there - if there are no hole to use drill an 1/8 hole in the jamb and squirt it through that. Like an oil pan - it's always greasy so it never rusts :)

[@walnutmanor]

Nice work!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks!

[@phillipgonzalez5407]

Can you paint over that primer surfacer after you finish sand or do you need to lay down a sealer

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can paint of sanded primer or un-sanded primer. You don't have to seal :)

[@donmiller4885]

Nice video what do you finish sand grit wise before paint ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Normally if it's just a driver 240-320 on a DA. If it's got to be perfect then 400 wet sand by hand or rubber block.

[@cali_cal]

Can the lacquer cover 80 grit?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes

[@mrodc21]

What size compressor are you using? I tried using a twin hot dog style gas 5.5hp Honda motor and my pressure still dropped at the gun. I had to use short strokes and take my finger off the trigger so it wouldn’t drop so much. My setting was at 28 psi for base coat, btw.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I don't think hot dog compressors are enough. I use a twin cylinder old craftsman 1hp, 20 gal, 110v, 6.4 SCFM at 40 psi, compressor. It's still small for what I'm doing - I do have to let it catch up when grinding large areas or sand blasting but that's about it. I will do a video on the smallest compressor that is really feasible to use soon. Ask again if that didn't help :)

[@Danno74Z]

Hi Jerry, Really good video! Question. After you finish sanding the primer surfacer and the area is perfect you come back with another round of primer and final block sanding prior to paint. On the final block sanding do you stay away from all body lines? What grit do you recommend for that and is it wet or dry? Thanks!! (I'm convinced one has to be almost an artist during this part of the process :))

[@LakesideAutobody]

Great questions my friend. After you've block sanded and have it perfectly straight, you'll prime it again for "finish sanding" which is prepping for paint. There's tons of different ways to finish sand depending on how nice you want it. The nicest is to block sand (old school 5 inch rubber block) with wet sanding paper and 400 grit or finer (your choice) staying away from all body lines and very very lightly hitting all the lines by hand 400 or even much finer - finer paper doesn't knock the lines down to fast and is more forgiving. You can use a DA to finish sand to - like for daily drivers - stay away from edges and body lines - come back and get those by hand with 400 grit or scuff pads (red) Red scuff pads are great for body lines if you don't trust yourself too. They are very forgiving and don't mess up the line no matter how you use it. See this video for more on the topic - kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpnHaZasgNKUptE Please feel free to ask more ?s if you need too - Jerry

[@Danno74Z]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you so much for the advice! I was not kidding about being an artist either. One can't paint a portrait first nor do finished body work like a pro. lot of practice. So I'm practicing. I have a 71 Camaro that need rust repair behind the rear wheels down low. Working on that now and using your "repair sheet metal and body work by numbers". Just finished the inner structure. Now the outside skin...Yikes!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Danno74Z You'll do just fine - keep asking questions. Remember, you can't break what's already broken. BTW, the 71 Camaro has always been one of my favorite cars. You just can't beat that front end - awesome :)

[@13perrocallejero]

What would be the last sand paper grit before paint

[@LakesideAutobody]

240 - 320 if using DA. Lot of shops choose 320 for DA. 400 if you wet or dry sand by hand. If that doesn't answer your ? ask again.

[@pitlion1]

BTW how much psi are you using to spray the surfacer with the purple gun? and is it still a 1.4 or did you drill it out like some people have done ? Thanks Jerry

[@LakesideAutobody]

Still 1.4 @ around 25 psi - relatively thick primer surfacer too. Pretty easy to clean too. I clean the end of the fluid needle, cap and fluid nozzle, cup/gun body with each use - don't take anything else apart.

[@seth3910]

Hey Jerry, after your happy with your flat blocking and add final primer coat, what do you hit it with the prep for paint? 400 block or just a good scotch?

[@LakesideAutobody]

240 - 320 on a DA or 320 - 400 wet or dry sand. I rarely dry sand by hand though - only small spots. Also depends on how nice you want the job to come out. Finer grit for the nicer jobs, etc. Jerry

[@truthserum5310]

I went to my local auto body paint and supply, and they laughed at me when I asked for lacquer primer surfacer. The dude pointed me to 2 one gallon cans that were on the shelf. They looked older than Elvis. The guy said they've been sitting on the shelf for years, and that nobody has bought or asked for lacquer primer in years. LOL.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's 'cause they've never worked in a body shop. You can actually use lacquer, urethane or poly for primer surfacers. All work great if used correctly. You will like lacquer primer the best though - promise. Dries the fastest, easiest to sand, no activator, don't have to throw out what you don't use, builds thickness fast, cheaper, works just as well even though folks will say otherwise. Here's a good video on all the types - kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2a1knSdl7OCm5I Here's some lacquer primer - www.tptools.com/Lacquer-Primers.html

[@truthserum5310]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry, appreciate the link and comments. Love watching all of your video's. You have taught me mountains of information.

[@webmastersof]

Is it best to use 20 gauge metal for the patch panels? Was never sure what gauge to use

[@LakesideAutobody]

20 or 22 is fine to use for patches on body panels - a little thicker for floor and trunk.

[@jayinmi3706]

How does Primer/Surfacer compare to High Build Primer? Or are they the same thing?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Same thing :)

[@jayinmi3706]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, I'm trying to estimate materials to paint my car and didn't want to order WAY more than I need. lol This stuff ain't cheap! haha

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@jayinmi3706 The paint will be the most expensive part but if you go with TCP Global restoration shop paint you can save pretty good amount. Here's 2 jobs using it - kzbin.info/www/bejne/l3urkmSdp99ofNU & kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXq2YoeYq5x-rNk All automotive primer surfacers work well so that will save you some money - find an inexpensive one you like and stick with it. Lacquer primer surfacer is the cheapest way to go but there is also urethane and polyester - poly is more for hiding poor body work though. Your choices come down to DTM Urethane and Lacquer primer surfacer really :)

[@jayinmi3706]

@@LakesideAutobody So, I'm thinking I need a gallon of single stage paint, probably a gallon of surfacer (or a quart of surfacer and a gallon of sealer since there isn't a TON of body work to do on the car) and the appropriate reducers and hardeners. The car is a compact 2 door. Since it isn't an EXACT color match I'll probably do a color change. I expect I'll need to cut and buff it when I'm done, so should I get an extra quart of paint to be safe? I haven't found any videos yet that go over how much of each kind of product you need other than saying "a gallon should be fine, unless you have a truck" I appreciate the feedback.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@jayinmi3706 You only need a gallon of paint but I usually keep extra reducer around incase it needs thinning. You'll be fine with a quart of primer surfacer as it needs to be thinned/reduced quite a bit. You'll end up with 1/2 gallon or more primer surfacer after thinning/reducing. You don't even need sealer actually. Sealer is a choice thing - some guys use it some don't :)

[@adanvaldcontreras4283]

Do you rec dupli color primer surfacer.. is it ok.. or junk. Your thoughts..

[@LakesideAutobody]

I have not used it but I'm sure it would work fine. I'm pretty sure it's lacquer primer so it will dry fast and sand easy. Duplicolor paint is lacquer based, that's why I'm guessing its lacquer. Try a quart and see or even the spray bomb can - then you can buy the gallon. I'll work on doing a video on that - don't know when though.

[@adanvaldcontreras4283]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the advice... you teaching me in every video. 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@adanvaldcontreras4283 Hopefully there's a good tip or two in each video I upload for you. Glad you enjoy them :)

[@jeremyr7147]

Whoo it's a lot of work to get em perfect. But dang I'm wondering about the overspray onto the good paint. You painting the whole door and sail? Last time I did two front fenders and didn't cover the whole van just 1/2 the door and got overspray all over it. Couldn't see it but feel the sandyness. Im a mechanic by day but former union painter also, so I do paint and body on the side.. I've got a new fender on a 2016 Jetta to do.. grey metallic. I think I'm going to paint the fender off the car try to get a match to the other fender as best I can then install. No blending, his budget doesn't allow.. don't really want to cover the car either on this budget I'll leave it outside for the painting. $350 $$ with changing the headlight and bumper brackets. Problem is its near zero and my shop is much like yours it looks. I'm worried about the cold I'm gonna wait till it hits 30°. But I can really only get it to sustain 50° in the shop at these temps.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - painting them. But it's par for the course - if you get any overspray it comes off real easy and fast with lacquer thinner. Your right though shouldn't be there - lazy sometimes.

[@phillipgonzalez5407]

Is thatva polyester primer surfacer or urethane primer surfacer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can use urethane, poly or lacquer primer surfacer. This was - Lacquer Primer Surfacer from Auto Body Master (Auto Value Store) w/ klean strip lacquer thinner.

[@phillipgonzalez5407]

@@LakesideAutobody ok so I took my panel down to medal I did my body filler now I can shoot whatever primer surfacer and then shoot my base coat?

[@phillipgonzalez5407]

@@LakesideAutobody so I can use any one of those primers I don't have to use them all in order. Like I don't have to lay down an epoxy primer and then a poly primer and then a urethane primer in that order? I can only shoot one let's say Polly primer and then base coat?

[@73superglide62]

As for me sanding need alot of that for the eye

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right :)

[@ronnieyoung7510]

I have a lifting problem I primed a hood and my car and the primer lift up should I strip it all back off

[@LakesideAutobody]

Most of the times, you have to sand it off. If you used lacquer primer, sometimes it will lift if sprayed over "newer" enamel or other non compatible paints. Best thing to do is sand it down and then start priming again with light coats first to build a base then you can go heavier. Or use a urethane primer surfacer. Ask more ?s if that doesn't help :)

[@ronnieyoung7510]

@@LakesideAutobody I had it perfect I used to Rust-Oleum canned primer and I went to Walmart and get another can it says stop rust and it lift it l

[@ronnieyoung7510]

@@LakesideAutobody does Rust-Oleum make two different primers and cans so that's what screwed me

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ronnieyoung7510 I believe so. One is lacquer based or maybe even both are lacquer based I think. If you still want to use it, start with a super light coat let it dry a bit and then keep getting heavier so that it doesn't "soak" into the substrate or older paint.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ronnieyoung7510 Think of it this way - it's giving you great experience. You will learn great skills from this. Happened very often in the old days with lacquer and enamel. The rule of thumb is - you can put enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel. You can always put lacquer over fully cured paints of any type - like old paint :)

[@almierz4604]

When my father taught me how to paint , some 40 years ago , he always said , 1st lay down your primer coat , sand , lay down another primer coat. , sand and then lay down a primer sealer coat , sand , tack cloth it off the lay down your color coat , ect. Why do we not hear about a surface sealer coat anymore , before the color coat. Thank. You.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good question - Sealer is sort of a choice. Some folks like it and use it - some don't. I like it because it makes everything one color and it also fills any minor imperfections - like real minor. Also I feel comfortable that I "sealed" it - don't know if it will help - but I sealed it :)

[@acemogany6369]

I can tell you this from my experience from painting and doing Body Work sealer is more than just filling little tiny holes sealer is pretty much a primer surfacer really thinned out and usually it is a 2K they call it which is a urethane which I've also see it in polyester also and you're more high-end applications it Seals Everything if you got one part of the panel that was painted another part that was Primer where they join together when you put your top coat over it sometimes it can have a reaction so when you seal it and there's no reaction it's like a clear coat that goes over the actual old paint and new primer it's an extra layer of protection Plus it has a hardener in it know if your paint has a hardener to it then your paint is pretty much s e a l i n g the substrate surfaces but if you have no hardener or your base coat does not take a hardener or single stage or whatever you may be using then there's a good chance that can lift graze or have an issue so that's why most painters special at big shops Troy coat of sealer on a car when they had prior body work or paint and they're just priming it and sealing it or they're just sealing it and painting it so that's a definition of a sealer Seals Everything off and I actually prefer using a waterborne sealer pure water based you never have no lifting

[@ronnieyoung7510]

Years back I work at a Dodge dealership on the neons they use sealer on them in in a lot you could take the paint and peel it right off by hand they had a big comeback on that

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

Right off the hop , you don’t get a lot of low spots ….. lesson is , if u do steps before right , like my man always does , next step is easier and the flat work becomes perfect

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right - the straighter the filler the easier the rest of the job goes :)

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

@@LakesideAutobody appreciate your replies , any one who wants to learn , my man here and diy auto schooll aka my friend Pete, are all you need ….

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@lawncuttingplusdelta Thanks Paul - I appreciate the support - have a great week :)

[@dingbatdumbbodyman131]

wash with body prep cleaner look down the panel [good off to the prepper] water borne primer no sand scratch swelling 6 months down the road

[@LakesideAutobody]

I used to do that with the wax and grease remover - worked real well - creates a shine so you can see any waves. Good suggestion :)

[@dingbatdumbbodyman131]

the hard part is dealing with bodyshop managers and the painter not good enough [ EGO TRIPPS ] REALLY

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@dingbatdumbbodyman131 You're right - sometimes that is the case - have a good week :)

[@dogit1840]

Way not just ues 180

[@LakesideAutobody]

You could but to get things straight you want to always "cut" through instead of "ride" over and with finer grits you tend to ride over because it quickly gets clogged. After you get it straight you can then freely move to any grit you want :)

[@johnhopwood8000]

400 mate not 120

[@LakesideAutobody]

Are you saying you like to block sand heavy, thick primer surfacer with 400?

[@kennethlovering4148]

DO NOT USE PAINT AS A GUIDE COAT! It clogs up your sand paper & does not come off as quickly as guide coat. You want to completely cover your area with guide coat.

[@LakesideAutobody]

A very light coat will not clog the paper. That's how it was done for years before some company said, "Hey - I'll bet some body shops would pay more if we called the spray bomb can of black paint GUIDE COAT" - just like selling water. If you listen to the older fellas you can still do bodywork at a reasonable price :)

[@MrTheHillfolk]

@@LakesideAutobody Here I go with a fuzzy memory recollection. I thought I've seen some kinda substance that kinda would be like rubbing charcoal on it, or chalk dust to avoid that wetness issue and you don't have to wait for it to dry (not that a spritz of paint takes long).

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@MrTheHillfolk They do make what you are talking about - 3M Dry Guide Coat Kit 05861, Carbon Black Powder - thanks Mr H

[@russthebiker]

​@@LakesideAutobody thanks for this informative video I will probably end up painting my own car,as the local bodyshops all seems to have closed down, and it's only the ones that give kick backs to the insurance companies that stay in business I will probably only paint one section at a time to make it more manageable Luckily it's an ancient car so plenty of break lines

[@leonardcrisci7254]

I appreciate you Talking to us but please it’s not worth it put on your mask

[@LakesideAutobody]

OK - maybe I'll talk between sanding - safety is good really :)

[@gary8866]

You didn't tell us what sandpaper you was using to sand down the primer very but good video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sorry - you can block huge rough panels with anything from 80 to start with and then 120-180 to end with. Nice straight small spots can be blocked w/ 120-180 - your choice. Then prime again and finish sand with 400 wet or 240-320 DA

[@gary8866]

Ok thanks great videos