How To Get Proper Camera Exposure | Understand The Exposure Layers

[@merakimade7440]

I swear I been studying you nonstop for two weeks...keep going and keep posting!!

[@writedirect]

Whoa! Right on. Thanks for watching! Check out the full training Christmas special! It won’t ever be this low again. writedirect.co

[@TechnoShamanism]

Loved the practical scenarios / case studies in the latter part of the video, great job and thank you!!

[@writedirect]

Hey, thanks! Hope it was helpful. Appreciate the kind words.

The value of this video is immense. Thank you

[@writedirect]

Hey cool! Thanks. Hope it helps!

[@Thibster]

That was excellent. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[@writedirect]

Right on! Thank you.

[@DethronerX]

Very well explained. I sometimes get confused at how to use the second ISO I think these videos can be further easier to follow, if all the narration has the practical happening, so it's also fun to watch someone take readings of the subject in the light and everything talked about is being shown. It can happen in two ways, one is narration over video and two, you are there talking to us and doing the exercise for us

[@writedirect]

Right on! Thanks for the detailed comments. I like the idea of doing both...should do an additional exercise. Seeing something two ways drives the point home.

[@DethronerX]

@@writedirect Thanks, Im new to using a light meter, so it would definitely help me and those starting out light readings for both digital and film, as both have different areas in the exposure that are forgiving, that we can bring out details of on post, like highlights for film and shadows for digital. Thank you for replying and considering.

[@writedirect]

@ something that might help now is my lesson on light meters and even the false colors lesson. Not exactly what you’re asking for, but similar.

[@straysignalmedia4400]

180 degree shutter can also be thought of in this way. 180 degrees is half of a full circle If the frame rate is 1/24 half of that is 1/48 If you run a shutter angle at 360 degrees, thats the whole circle, so All of 1/24 is 1/24 shutter angle of 90 degrees is 1/4th of a circle, 1/4th of 1/24 is 1/96 and so on for any shutter angle.

[@writedirect]

Great example! I like the degree option on my BMD cameras vs having to mess with actual shutter which of course is what a digital camera is doing. Leaving my camera at 180 allows once less thing to think about when changing frame rates.

[@straysignalmedia4400]

@@writedirect exactly leaving it at 180 will insures your shutter will always be half of your frame rate.

[@robertbrooks5888]

As time passes, I notice photographers who attempt to create their own vernacular and give a personalized spin on long-standing phrases that have been around and understood in the photography community for a long time. I have even encountered a photographer who said that there is no such thing as proper exposure. I get that there are now two photographic mediums, one that is chemical and the other electric. I don't however, agree that the digital medium is vastly different from traditional film. You missed the mark on the "180-degree rule". It's now a rule at all. It is a half-round disk that spins inside the camera and spins at a precribes RPM allowing light to reach the film gate only half of the rotation of the disk. Some cameras allow you to adjust the disk to allow a longer period of time ( in that one rotation) for the light hitting the gate. You never explained what the gray card is and its history. When a person exposes a sensor or film, and they say I shot it with a proper exposure. They are really saying that they shot it to an average using an incident meter with the white dome out, or a reflective reading off a gray card held at a 45-degree angle from the light source. When I shoot 16mm Ektachrome on my Arriflex 16BL, that gray card is always by my side. You also forgot to mention that the focal length lens and the size of the sensor also have a big effect on the depth of field. And lastly ISO on a digital camera isn't what everyone thinks it is. When you turn up the ISO, all you are doing is adjusting the signal-to-noise ratio. It has nothing to do with making the sensor "more or less sensitive".

[@writedirect]

Hey @robertbrooks5888. It sounds like you know a lot about cameras which is cool! But what I don't get are your comments -- they make it sound like you didn't watch all of my video, which is confusing since your evaluation is a bit negative. So I'll respond to others who might read your comment and happy to chat with you once you actually watch the lesson in entirety: 1) Vernacular: Yes, "exposure layers" is def my term vs something like "exposure triangle." Triangle might make sense for still photography, but my layers example is beautiful for filmmaking. Makes way more sense. 2) 180 degree rule: It is actually considered a rule for filmmakers. It's not just about 24 frames but an associated cinematic blur that's been around for decades and decades. This is crucial to understand. I do mention the circular mechanism that Robert refers to. On a digital camera it's obviously just doing the math for you. So you can set actual shutter (which is how digital works) or old school degree. 3) Gray Card: History on this is optional for this lesson. How to use one is paramount, but I cover that in another lesson (false colors). I used a middle gray card all the time and def recommend someone have one in addition to their light meter if their camera implements false colors well. 4) Focal length/sensor size for depth of field: These were not forgotten, but covered in detail in another lesson here on the channel. I do mention DOF and how it relates to our exposure layers which is CRUCIAL to understand. But diving into DOF in an exposure lesson is overkill IMO. It would be like telling a new mechanic how to build an engine in an oil change lesson. 5) ISO -- Regardless of the technical things happening in camera circuitry, for us filmmakers, ISO is about moving our dynamic range in relation to middle gray. That's paramount to understand. If you don't understand this, you'll be confused really fast. This is why I showed the Blackmagic Design ISO charts. You'll have the most stops at native ISO, but then you're essentially moving your dynamic range up and down and this must be decided on first, which is why it's the foundation layer. If any of this doesn't make sense, please start a new comment thread. Happy shooting!