How to Get That 1950s Dior Shape: Tailoring Secrets w Barbara of Royal Black Couture

Barbara regularly releases new tailoring and corsetmaking tutorials over on her Patreon; go check it out! / posts
More of her work on Instagram: / royalblack_couture
royalblack.at/
Fitting model, styling & documentation: / lindasekoll
Jacket pattern & photographer: / bugaric_
Editing by @DannyBanner
@danbanstudio
www.danbanstudio.com
IG / danbanstudio
YT / danibanner
Want to get started with hand sewing?
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“In Our Days” - Raymond Grouse
“Mixed Emotions" - Arthur Benson
“Odd Behaviour” - Arthur Benson
“Careless Wandering” - Arthur Benson
“Trans Siberian Express” - Luella Gren

[@draughtoflethe]

Honestly, in the spirit of experimental archaeology, I think Barbara has discovered something here. She says she felt like an impostor and that Christian Dior would've disapproved of her using shoulder pads, but... when she tried to use the "expected" contemporary materials, they didn't work, and using premade shoulder pads achieved *exactly* the right effect, so I think that gives us some valuable information. They were making shoulder pads in the 1950s, in some form, I assume? The shoulders of men's suits were padded, at the very least, even if those pads were made in the tailor's shop and not prepackaged and sold as sewing notions. My hypothesis is that if you opened up that original Dior jacket Barbara was recreating, you'd find something that "suspiciously resembled" handmade shoulder pads in the hips.

[@tailbonetailbone9380]

I don't doubt that the Dior jacket has a very similar padding pattern and layering.It's not certain, but considering the materials are not too different, it's a possibility!

[@arnaudcutrone1784]

There is literally a video of a making of a red couture Dior coat (from raf's first couture collection) with the bar silhouette, where they show the padding. It's a shoulder pad, or at least the shape is very similar.

[@MossyMozart]

@@arnaudcutrone1784 - Are you writing about the video that shows how the atelier made 2011's Dior coat, Passage #5? If so, that is an enthralling video; 50 minutes long, but worth every second. At the 43:50 and 47:00 marks, you can see the dressmaker slipping a shoulder pad under the hip piece. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fYewqoKsfd2nrbs

[@cinemaocd1752]

Also, while Christian Dior is revered as a godlike figure NOW, he was at one point a newb and was considered a radical because he dared to reverse the streamlining that had started in the 1920s. His New Look was reminiscent of bygone eras, but with modern materials, so using a shoulder pad to get the effect of what might have been done with a cage skirt or paniers in past eras makes total sense.

[@kgs42]

A good problem-solver is infinitely open minded.

[@matthodek]

The Dynamic Duo stitches again! (Sorry, I think my tea is just kicking in... 😋) I love the approach of learning from the past and bringing what we now have available to achieve what you want. Maybe even more important, the idea that there very often isn't one 'right way' to do things as long as you can withstand Dior's disapproving eyebrows...

[@myladycasagrande863]

One imagines that even Dior fudged things now and then.

[@violakarl6900]

@@myladycasagrande863 you don't get that successful by following only already done techniques and obeying rules, he probably spent most of his time breaking the rules he learned in the beginning :)

[@LittleGlowfly42]

Where I did my apprenticeship, we used these exact shoulder pads for tailored womens wear as well. Yes, they are big but because of how they're made you can easily cut them down to whatever size you need compared to those other types of shoulder pads you can get. Also as far as I know, those sewn pads with several layers are made in a very similar way as they made them historically and there are still tailors today that make them themselves. It always brightens my day when I see Barbara using all those fancy things that you only come into contact with if you had professional training like using silk organza as interfacing, special tools for ironing and today the good shoulder pads and the ice wool. Feels like an emotional hug 💜

[@lindathompson3660]

Hi Emerwaen, just wondering where did you buy the shoulder pads from. I've never seen that shape of shoulder pad with the different materials layered in it. 💜🤔😊

[@stephaniehorne6692]

Yes, where can I buy these??

[@THandP_org]

@@lindathompson3660 I bought mine from a fine gentleman's suit and tuxedo shop that was locally owned in Raleigh, NC in 1984. Last time I visited, it had been replaced by a chain store, and they no longer custom made suits from start to finish

[@DieAlteistwiederda]

My grandma always said "Es ist nur dumm wenn es nicht funktioniert." thought that kind of very German sentiment might be helpful for an Austrian dress maker as well. My grandma was very pragmatic and always just tried stuff out and if it worked it just worked and we could just ignore the rules. So if men's shoulder pads work who cares, Christian Dior is long dead

[@Koboldmensch]

"Its only stupid if it doesnt work" ;) i still use it today :)

[@Burning_Dwarf]

Yes, very much in use today If it's stupid and it works, it ain stupid!

[@susansparke3462]

Ha! I'm rather pleased with myself for correctly guessing the translation of your lovely grandmother's words! I don't speak German, nor have I studied it like I have with Castilian Spanish and Parisian French, but I thank you for sharing her words with us.

[@eurydice5890]

@@susansparke3462 may I inquire as to the difference between Parisian French and regular French French ?

[@iamaude]

@@eurydice5890 I’m French and I have no idea what Parisian French is lol Maybe this person meant neutral French (even though to me the Parisian accent is far from neutral)

[@scarlatt-rosediosi6107]

1800s padding on the outside 1950s padding in clothes 2022 padding in the body

[@kaseysullivan5634]

You're not wrong, but stop.

[@scarlatt-rosediosi6107]

@@TokyoTaifun yes exactly

[@Blessed_Sound]

2030 you are the padding.

[@eurojack44]

This underscores just how much engineering goes into tailoring and garment construction. It boggles the mind.

[@Kayla_P99]

The geometry that goes into it takes a lot of skill too

[@lisahaasecustomsewing2106]

And people wonder why you want to charge them $500 or more for a tailored suit or even just a jacket.

[@2u2a]

Can Barbara get already her youtube channel? I love all the technical stuff that she does. I will probably never do them myself, but just watching her craft is so interesting

[@kholdstare90]

She has one: kzbin.info/door/h9NhrF2zMo2L5G4lWHzllA Though being a career tailor Barbara might not have the time to dedicate to running a couturier shop and a youtube channel.

[@savinathewhite]

Fascinating technique - I might try to integrate this into a jacket I'm making for a client this autumn. Lovely ideas to create a silhouette!

[@normanblancowillijames939]

Hello salvina how are you doing today ??

[@rebeccaa3541]

For Dior, the 2011 making of the runway Red Dress has a segment of them discussing the hip padding and it being the same as the bar suit. There are still some late 1940 coat sewing patterns that have hip padding as they emulate that look. My God the bar suits are gorgeous. Your bar suit jacket is to die for!

[@daneekaplan4284]

I don't even sew garments but I never miss one of your videos because you're an incredible storyteller. Even when you have a guest you're able to weave an interesting story. I am a crafter and quilter and I did a lot of cross stitching & embroidery as a child and I just love watching the hand stitching on your channel. There is something quite beautiful about hand stitching.

[@normanblancowillijames939]

Hello Danee how is your day going over there ??

[@Chibihugs]

I will never cease to be amazed at how good tailoring can make magic happen with fabric. I could listen to Barbara talk about it and her explorations all day long. Love the presentation of this video!

[@aerolb]

Barbara is always a fun and informative guest! Love the results and the adorkablness at the end.lol

[@aliceg5327]

This was so interesting. I love that kind of deceptively simple silhouette. (how strange that I'm obsessed by the 'basic' edwardian silhouette, hm ?) I find this endeavor really cool because it's not like Dior are ever gonna share the secret, but nobody keeps knowledgeable sewist out there from trying to reverse engineer things. I only wish we'd seen more (I want to make a jacket like that, okay? 🤩)! Thank you for sharing!

[@JoannaPiancastelli]

Love to see Barbara back again! Last time I was interested but not sure I'd ever actually use what she was explaining, then not two weeks later I found myself with a piece of copper pipe balanced between two chairs ironing a seam sewed in a tube and then pressing it flat with a block of wood, thinking to myself, "I hope Barbara and Bernadette would be proud of me!"

[@jasmineflowers3583]

I find it interesting how the clothing industry has simultaneously evolved and devolved in different areas

[@sion-dafyddlocke9913]

Dior basques have always been a house secret in terms of what they’re made of, but the ones I’ve seen are just larger shoulder pad shapes. My understanding though is that the pad is shaped and stitched together on a ham before it’s sewn into the jacket facing. I also believe they use mostly triple organza to interface, which gives it a different feel than haircoat.

[@alyssavonkirkbride]

The loveliest guest sharing knowledge about one of the loveliest silhouettes! I'm in heaven. ♥

[@elle-vk4js]

As soon as I saw the title, I got my sewing out ready for an interesting time. I am so inspired to one day make an attempt at this as well. I love the 1950's silhouette and would love to try my hand at this. This is why I love sewing, because designs and clothing that I couldn't normally access can be made by me!

[@thequeerquartz]

i love barbara's voice and pacing, it is so calming to listen to and i appreciate the specific and precise instructions

[@myladyswardrobe]

My late grandmother who was German, though moved to England in 1949 at age 19, had a very similar voice and pacing. I miss her.

[@DevonDowner]

it makes me SO happy to see how happy Bernadette gets when getting to discuss historical fashion with other historical fashion nerds. The feeling one gets when discussing their passion with a like minded person is next to none. ♥

[@SarahWelstead]

Honestly, I find it disheartening to see how many times Barbara and Bernadette - and so many other sewing-channel creators - have to qualify their opinions by saying "Such-and-such purists wouldn't approve of [shoulder pads] [time-saving methods] [whatever]". These women are dedicated to research and experimentation and giving credit to the people they've learned from, and they're committed to actually doing the work. It's a shame that even with good intentions and intentional actions, there'd still be people out there whining about how one time Barbara used a time-saving shoulder pad. Ugh.

[@normanblancowillijames939]

Hello Sarah how is your day going over there ??

[@mcomeslast]

Dior did, too, according to their video. The red bar jacket

[@Costuming_Drama]

Barbara is both a goddess and a master of her craft. What an amazing human! 💖

[@michellecornum5856]

Costuming Drama, Is Bernadette having a give away? I think she has a bot on this comment site that is pretending to be her.

[@normanblancowillijames939]

Hello Barbara how is your day going over there ??

[@nebuloranebuflora470]

Unrelated to the video, but I wanted to say thank you Bernadette for all of your content! It’s motivated me to get back into sewing and designing my own clothing, and I am currently working on hand-finishing the seams of a peasant style maxi skirt.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

That suit is an iconic piece of fashion history for a reason. Thanks for breaking down how to get that dramatic silhouette.

[@adrianburrell6217]

Thank you. The day we stop wanting to learn, according to my father, we should dig a hole, jump in, and pull the dirt in after us. A teacher since he got out of the Air Force and used the GI Bill to get his degree, at 93, he still teaches me things and remembers formulas every day that I never knew or have long forgotten.

[@lauramathews3151]

Barbara is my favorite collab partner of yours. The knowledge and technique the two of you bring to the sewing table is amazing and it makes my heart so full to think about the next generation of people you two are attracting to sewing and the historical craftsmanship side of costube.

[@normanblancowillijames939]

Hello Barbara how is your day going over there ??

[@mellowenglishgal]

Coming here on the heels of watching the trailer for “Mrs Harris Goes to Paris” - Dior’s New Look will be at the forefront of our minds once again!

[@TheVioletWolf]

So, I have been in total awe of Bernadette and enjoyed watching her channel grow to the capacity it has (and counting!!!!) and I am thrilled t o be sitting here on bed rest, watching her videos. I had to take a break a while back, because I was waiting like a fiend for every next video. Letting time pass and the new videos build up for binge-watching was so well worth the wait. I cannot wait or the next 12 or so videos and the glorious amount of time it will take to watch them all the way through. Thank the UNIVERSE or people like Bernadette. ❤

[@crystalheartcrafts]

A true method of doing what works not what someone says must be done

[@petapendlebury9024]

And more hand friendly! A friend's mother worked as a junior in a London atelier in the 50s and one of her jobs was creating the padding for jackets like these by working wool in a bucket of water and pounding it till it created the shape they wanted. She said the jackets were so structured they could stand up on their own and they wore the models not the other way around! She became a superb sewer but sadly arthritis ended her sewing career early which she believes in no small part was started by hours and hours spent pounding wet wool in buckets of water so I think in this instance the modern way is definitely the way to go! I was lucky enough to have her help making my first 1950s jacket (more everyday, less couture but still definitely fitted!) and thoroughly enjoyed our chats. Your jacket looks so stunning 😍

[@juliarabbitts1595]

I went to the Dior exhibition at the V&A, the jacket and skirt was such an inspiration, as was seeing the structure underneath.

[@mistingwolf]

As someone who does only the barest amount of sewing only as must needs, I still find this absolutely fascinating! I never thought that the original technique of creating such a shape could be so mysterious!

[@dragnflei]

I always love it when Barbara is on the channel. ❤

[@sbaumgartner9848]

This is a stunning Dior jacket. I'd love to see Barbara wearing her finished jacket.

[@keiracorder4717]

YAASSSS! I'm sewing a whole wardrobe in that lovely feminine, 1950s housewife "Dior's New Look" style!

[@erikacronje8985]

Barbara is so awesome, I love how she simplifies her techniques and makes it accessible to us!

[@BigHenFor]

The Dior New Look is one of my favourite looks, and it's silhouette is gorgeous. And this discussion reveals the magic in the construction. Thank you.

[@VJSV327]

I’m rather inexperienced at anything related to clothmaking/tailoring, but I love watching these videos because there is often information I can use in my everyday life. Also, I just realized that Barbara looks a bit like Natalia Osipova, Prima of the Royal Ballet.

[@cliffp.8396]

Barbara is always wonderful to watch, she is so natural at teaching.

[@hoovergrant]

I do not sew I mean zero but I’m glued to watching this. I learned about “catch stitching”, no idea how to do it but very pretty to look at!

[@teumessia8492]

God I love the tailoring videos so much. It‘s such a detailed process with so many itty bitty details and the finished product always looks so deceptibly simple. The amount of work required to get those clean-cut lines will never cease to amaze me.

[@jeffgentry6728]

I'm a dude who can't sew, I love your channel just for the educational value. You do some fascinating things about clothing and tailoring and history.

[@mattgabriel0910]

here i am trying to learn sewing on my own thru youtube, with my end goal as this dior bar jacket, and to hear this from Bernadette Banner's channel. I was ecstatic!

[@sion-dafyddlocke9913]

I can tell you that KZbin doesn’t have a lot on tailoring in general and if you want to learn, look for a copy of Modern Tailor and Clothier online. It’s menswear only, but has the most comprehensive explanations about structuring garments. From there, you can find women’s tailoring guides for either a basque or paletot which is the basic shape of a bar jacket.

[@mattgabriel0910]

@@sion-dafyddlocke9913 oh yes! i've got copy of that. i've been supplementing that with some videos, which like you said is very sparse in youtube. and yeah really the best route to take is lots of trial and error. Also if u have any other resources on tailoring-- would love to know!

[@sion-dafyddlocke9913]

@@mattgabriel0910 in that case, The Ladies’ Tailor System by Hughes and Storey. It’s late Victorian and American, easy to find a pdf on google books. And Rory Duffy is a Savile Row tailor who had a making the coat series here kzbin.info/aero/PL6wdXAvg4DOEngOR93SkkVK8Tb0AvmwJv

[@scarlettohara7862]

Thank u ♡ I love when Barbara appears in your videos. Her voice calms me down so effectively I am actually going through an emotionally difficult moment snd the video is so soothing

[@fruitytarian]

I always have to watch and rewatch videos with Barbara, she is so informative that I don't catch everything the first time. It's like a fascinating college lecture where you get inspired to go off and do your own research. As someone who left school a long time ago, and recently started teaching myself to sew, I really enjoy how much I can learn from these videos. Thank you both! 💙🤓👏

[@mittzygirl1820]

Thank you Bernadette, for featuring Barbara on as your guest from time to time. I so welcome her showing us techniques we'd have to madly hunt for; oft-times in vain. Styling during the 50's , as well, the mid-to- late 40's were my favorites. Rare catalogues from these years are fascinating, and we can often see the styling repeated in today's retailing.

[@Cindy-ef2vn]

Speaking of "You are tempting me to things...." After watching all of your episodes, I felt like I better break out my 1950s Singer 301A and sew something. Happy to report that I'm sitting here in my 2nd attempt as a "sassy top" (according to my husband). 2nd attempt took 50% as long as the 1st attempt. Mostly because attaching the collar took 2 times instead of 4. Thanks and all the best to you.

[@Peldyn]

This made a lot of sense. I have be reconstructing and remaking tailored jackets for the theatre so this felt right.

[@imhottequilabrown]

It's so lovely to watch someone have such a sweet, genuine crush. 🖤

[@lillyrose3545]

Barbara is such a gem! I am really enjoying the videos that you have her in.

[@jennaiii]

More Barbara time 😍 I will listen to everything that she says ever. She's a total joy.

[@Neonatnoon]

Barbara’s jacket turned out beautifully. Love seeing the process!

[@stars15k]

This has been my favorite couture item ever, and I am 62. It is exquisite and has always fascinated me. Now I know how it was made, and it kind of makes me want a dress form, a book on tailoring, and a trip to a large fashion fabric store. But my silhouette is too close to the peplum, and does not resemble the top part even remotely. Thank you! I was so excited when I saw the garment chosen! It's like shopping and finding something you've always wanted ON SALE.

[@fenn7]

I see you two attempted the Karolina ending there! 10/10 awkwardly endearing

[@lenaeospeixinhos]

Love a Barbara appearance! 😍

[@heidim7732]

I have learned so much from both of you; I've been asked to make a cosplay cloak for a friend, and I am considering incorporating shoulder and back yokes because that will achieve the silhouette he wants, even if the images and patterns he's referenced are far simpler. All ahead full, and damn the seam-rippers!

[@kuroinokitsune]

Hm... He probably won't be checking what you using, and it will benefit your skill... so..I hope he is a good person to not throw a feat if someone done better job then he asked:) Good luck:)

[@heidim7732]

@@kuroinokitsune We're actually collaborating closely, and with his background in graphic arts he can see what I intend as I show him examples. I intend to make a muslin first so as to have a good idea of where and how to tweak things in the final version. The best part is that since he made the request... he has to stand there for measurements and modeling as much as I want. *The power*... muahahaha

[@kuroinokitsune]

@@heidim7732 oh.. that's great:)

[@valerieb.4912]

Thank you for having Barbara back on your channel. With every video, I have found myself being more fascinated by how and what fabrics they used. The knowledge and teaching on your channel are impeccable. I am 63 yrs young and I have learn more on your channel in several years than my whole life of sewing. Merci. ❤

[@neldahargo29]

I grew my own hip pads. They came with a free bonus of belly pads.

[@clairewestrop8606]

Loved Barbara last time - lovely to see her back!

[@melissamybubbles6139]

This lady is amazing. I have no ambition to do this, but I love watching her work.

[@michaeltriba1307]

Hello again, Ms. Banner! 🤗🤗 I shall have to watch this in full later, and see if my wife also wishes to watch with me. You continue to surprise and delight! I was quite shocked when you addressed something from the decade when I was born, and 4 of 5 of us siblings were kiddies! 😍😍 I also always thought you wished to live in the Edwardian and Victorian periods of my father's older siblings and parents! 😉😉 Good day to you, lovely ladies! 🥰🥰

[@SewTexas]

I am so very impressed with Barbara's skill.

[@VerbenaComfrey]

Thank you SO MUCH for bringing up padding OUT instead of merely tightening IN. I've spent my whole life thinking I "couldn't" wear fifties and other very "nipped" styles because while I'm not thin, the way I'm built doesnt squish very well and corsetry pretty much just smooths me out rather than actually subtracting much.

[@Strampunch]

Very inspiring and interesting! This is definitely tempting me to push myself to learn more about tailoring so I can finally make the suit of my dreams! different decades, but still curious to see how padding has been part of outfit making for so long.

[@RedKittieKat]

I still think she is part Magician. 😉 Impeccable work indeed! 🥰

[@medicwebber3037]

Gosh she does impressive work. I so enjoy these collaborations between two lovely human beings who take what they do seriously, really try to do it as well as possible, are _always_ trying to learn new things and better their techniques, are willing to _share_ that knowledge and their experiences, _AND_ have fun doing it! Thank you, Barbara, for coming back and sharing. Thank you, Bernadette, for sharing your channel! It's a win for everyone.

[@maiwennalix810]

I just love the technique of putting the silk organza interfacing to stiffen the fabric AND be able to add padding without the stitch to appear on the outside, such a clever, clever idea ! Thank you so much Barbara !

[@betsymiller6170]

I too have been obsessed with recreating this jacket! I found a video on Dior’s channel that details the construction of a dress with similar lines and they briefly show the hip padding!! One million screen grabs later, it does indeed look like a fat shoulder pad. I’m a forever Bernadette stan- thank you so much for your work. ❤

[@khazermashkes2316]

Thank you!

[@manderpandersalamander9977]

I forever love videos with the two of you! 💕

[@coalsparks]

I really like these videos. The techniques used by tailors seem so different from “regular” sewing.

[@shadebennett2375]

Love love love everything the two of you do ❤️❤️

[@jenn976]

I love these two together. The videos are great!

[@astra1653]

I love love love your videos that feature Barbara. ❤

[@moniquedegomez4738]

I love you two. Thank you for another fun and informative video.

[@aperfecttouch]

Thank you for bringing Barbara to your channel again! I always enjoy her tutorials and her approach to creating!

[@jamesharris8110]

As a guy still figuring out what I want (and how) to sew I find these videos very informative as well as entertaining.

[@christopherkemsley4758]

I do really like this series of videos and hope they continue! (Though not at the expense of your videos!)

[@juliehenderson1672]

Thank you for having guest interviews. 👍

[@jenniferlynn3537]

My compliments to the editor and music supervisor of this video! 🎶 I smiled throughout at the plucky notes in the background adding the “inquisitive detective” vibes and sense of ingenuity which motivated discovery of these techniques!🕵🏻‍♂️Informative as always and good fun to boot!!!

[@VerbenaComfrey]

I was trying to place the vibe, but that's it exactly!

[@amberrhodes116]

Thank you Barbara for sharing with us! Loved the video

[@roamink4147]

How lovely to see Barbara here! ❤

[@sarah.sparkles]

Love it when Barbara visits! I always learn so much :)

[@jeanniefromtahini5197]

1.) I wish I had the focus and precision both of you had when it comes to sewing. Brilliant. (2.) I really enjoy the dynamic between the two of you and how you share such a passion for this topic (the details of how these items are made, and shaped). LOVE LOVE LOVE! (3.) Byyyyye! lol

[@sarahb9230]

We loooove you Barbara! Thanks both for such lovely, educational content ❤️

[@datumzinememories]

A pure pleasure watching and learning new things from Barbara as always.

[@KamuCreates]

Lovely fashion and informative as always thanks Bernadette and Barbara!

[@queenella3849]

I love this series

[@LeOhio817]

This is so informative. Not only for someone who constructs garments, but for someone who is interested in purchasing a garments to be made or ready to wear. Not enough knowledge can lead to a less than stellar experience with an inferior product.

[@MsMonikaBar]

What a precious lesson! Thank you ladies for sharing your knowledge.

[@DawnYarnDoll]

Barbra is an excellent teacher. Sending well wishes to everyone xo

[@janeharris6925]

Always a delight when the two of you are together !

[@kristinafontaine3097]

Yaaay Barbara is back :)

[@SwingingSeamstress]

Aahhh, so glad to see you here, Barbara! 🤗 It‘s Janet (Vecona) from the old N&S forum days, such an wonderful surprise to see your work featured here! ❤️

[@madisongallagher6464]

Literally~ so helpful in this very moment!! Thank you, now I have a lead to a solution *skulks back to sewing cave*

[@nataliechim5227]

Love watching the journey and process in this video. Barbara is so talented.

[@dinarobbins4799]

I LOVE that Dior jacket!!! And basically all things New Look. Thanks so much for making this!

[@fableagain]

I'm really starting to enjoy the Barbara Bernadette duo. I'd love for them to do a more informal episode together, like a podcast or something.

[@Tzuriah]

Fascinating!! Thank you very much! I should have kept all those shoulder pads from my younger days…..who knew? 😉

[@StyleAdix]

This was so cool! Thanks for bringing her on your channel

[@kjtherrick4031]

Ingenious, Barbara! Thank you!