HOW TO GUIDE: MR. SURFACER FOR TANKS

[@aleks1939]

Great tips. Also love how you get straight to the point.

[@johnkelley9877]

This will help a lot in recreating casting effects and non skid surfaces. Thanks for sharing this.

[@shortlong8936]

But which grade (500, 1000, 1200) is good for which task?

[@darwinci]

swannymodels covered this topic, search swannymodels mr surfacer on google

[@wannabkain4400]

500 is like putty so apply like putty. 1000 is thinner and can be more for a larger surface. 12000 can be used as primer or final layer

[@theMudFather]

I love the effect using a brush, but can it be used as a spray primer?

[@scalewarmachines]

Yes, dilute with plenty of acetone.

[@vasilmirchev4555]

I had absolutely no idea that this product is used for this. I thought that this is a primer and I was wondering why is chipping off so easy. Thank you.

[@sildurmank]

It is not a primer per se, but you can use it for that, properly thinned down, and you're better with the 1200 or 1500 grain in order to airbrush. Anyway, the real function is supposed to be a fast drying liquid putty.

[@ShengTheCraftsman]

you can mix in some fine sand too if you want to

[@wannabkain4400]

I got this as a primer as I didn’t want to deal with spray primer due to the fumes. But lucky I seen from people and yourself saying you need a mask anyway. Is there any brush on primer that doesn’t need a mask? Basically one that isn’t toxic.

[@scalewarmachines]

You could use some Vallejo products or Mig Productions products: they make various water based surface products, 'white liner', 'acrylic resin' etc., also art suppliers like Daler-Rowney make surface texturing products that are quite good for things like cast effects. For general paint priming, go with polyurethane surface primers like AK, Vallejo, Ammo etc. Mostly water-based and less toxic.

[@wannabkain4400]

@@scalewarmachines I heard that the Vallejo primers and paints in general are none toxic so I am definitely going to give them a go. Thank you, glad I found out before I opened the Mr surfacer.

[@c3tactical184]

I think I may have got a bit carried away with this stuff! I used some 1000 grade all over some resin/plastic 1/56th kits. Im guessing this isn't right as seeing in your videos where its only applied to various areas. Where is it best applied? Does the texture still show through the paint as its looks quite subtle?

[@scalewarmachines]

C3 Tactical It's best applied gently & at your scale - in fact most scales - diluted with acetone. Thin it down & apply with an old brush to replicate cast metal or any surface texture like casting, no-slip treatments, rolled steel & so on. It does show through after painting but keep it subtle & diluted for best results.Wear a mask as this stuff & acetone is overpowering!

[@c3tactical184]

Scale War Machines yeah I did get a modellers high without one! Thanks for the tip

[@habiks]

C3 Tactical you can also use lacquer thinner instead of acetone.. it seems to thin down more easy (the acetone just floats back on top when the lid is closed)

[@wearejoe]

I appreciate this. Thank you

[@Holyganker]

Love the how-to videos!

[@scalewarmachines]

Thanks. We appreciate the comment.

[@cristianci00]

Any idea why the styrene got wrinkled after spraying a few layers of 1200 Mr Surfacer and after 24 hours another thin layers of lacquer paint? I have painted a car kit model, the main body came out good but the hood got wrinkled really bad. After striping down the paint I noticed that the styrene got melted into wrinkles not only the paint

[@Pimentel-Kreations]

Light coats

[@Pimentel-Kreations]

The second coat of laquer soften the primer underneath

[@Mocha_122]

Can you use x20a thinner for Mr. Surfacer

[@scalewarmachines]

ReplitzZ nope - acetone is the best thing that will do it (or the Gunze Sangyo solvent & possibly Tamiya Lacquer Thinners with the yellow cap - but the odour given off by mixing the Lacquer with Mr. Surfacer is going to be really overpowering). Tamiya X20A won't work as that's an alcohol type thinners rather than a solvent based product.

[@Mocha_122]

Scale War Machines Okay thanks for the quick response

[@cyrilpang5457]

noob question: for the Mr. Surfacer, how long do I need to wait until I can put the paint on? do I need to apply a layer of primer before the paint? is thin lacquer paint doing fine on the surfacer

[@scalewarmachines]

Wait a day or so and you can paint on directly. It's basically a thick solvent based primer anyhow.

[@Jesterclown17]

Really interesting, I'll keep this stuff in mind for future projects.

[@michaelandrew4488]

Nice tips thanks. Must say that "whoosh" sound does get very annoying though.

[@phayzyre1052]

Is Mr. surfacer enamel or acrylic based?

[@scalewarmachines]

It’s solvent based. Use acetone to dilute though some Mr. Hobby lacquer solvents also work in all likelihood.

[@phayzyre1052]

@@scalewarmachines OK, thanks!

[@Pimentel-Kreations]

Brush hairs are too long,works best if you cut them down. Don't brush it on either,just glob it on them start stippling right away,you want to avoid brush strokes at all cost. A tooth brush works great using tamiya extra thin by it self,follow by lightly sanding the surface with a scotch bright pad

[@Migzter05]

Noob question: Do I need to mix this with thinner too?

[@scalewarmachines]

+Miguel Pabello You don't need to. You can use it neat but having an appropriate thinner (e.g. acetone) to hand means you have a lot more control over the Mr. Surfacer, its thickness, the coverage & the surface textures you're after.

[@oneyedthing]

Do you use pure acetone or diluted acetone to mix with mr surfacer? What's the percentage?

[@scalewarmachines]

Pure, use a ratio that gives you the consistency or texture you want for the effects you need.

[@hl1796]

thank for the trick SWC, may i ask, after making the surface with MR. SURFACER 500 ,did i still need to to a prime paint with stuff like MR. SURFACER 1200/1500 or Tamiya Primer ? before paint it with base color ?

[@scalewarmachines]

Nope, it's effectively a primer too. Though, maybe if you still have mixed media or different coloured material elsewhere on the kit then blast it with a coat of primer to unify everything.

[@hl1796]

Thank you Also, what is the typical surface that you suggest we should apply it to ? tank turret , what about turret less type like Stug, or Jagdpanzer ? which is the part you suggest that i should apply Mr surfacer 500 on ?

[@scalewarmachines]

Basically anywhere that would have been cast metal. You can thin it with acetone and use thin applications for certain types of rolled steel armour too. But 500 out of the bottle is thick - so ideal for say a cast Stug mantlet or even better, appliqué cast concrete armour on a Stug.

[@IcarusIcarus76]

Great video, at what ratio you recommend thinning MrSurfacer 1500 for airbrushing with levelling thinner ? 60 thinner / 40 primer is ok ?

[@scalewarmachines]

Never really used it for that. Tend to go for the hard stuff - acetone. Imagine Levelling is similar stuff. 70/30 thinner/surfacer or 60/40 yes, something like that. Try it out and have a go on a junk kit with a b grade airbrush.

[@4sayk3n]

am new to using this and I bought some.. and I have a question what would be a the ratio for 1200 and would mr hobby leveling thinner work with this?

[@scalewarmachines]

+Jose M Depends how you intend to use it - if it's for airbrushing could be 50% or more (50:50 ratio). If it's for brushing on or texturing we'd say about 20% thinner (80:20) so it's really brushable.

[@steveminla]

What do you use to clean the brushes after you're done using Mr. Surfacer?

[@scalewarmachines]

smahalko Acetone is best.

[@moneygangrepp4]

Great tip thank you.

[@danielebling]

I'm getting mixed results when I airbrush mr surfacer I did a few parts and some were nice and had a little grit (which I want ) and some where smooth like glass what am I doing wrong and tips pressure , spray distance between m to sing the 1000 grade

[@scalewarmachines]

+Daniel Ebling Yes the issue is mixing ratios (we take it you are diluting Mr Surfacer 1000?) - hard to exactly match each time. It could also be anything from distance to subject, ambient temperature & so on. It's gritty because the paint/primer/surfacer is dry as it hits the model - glossy because it hits the model wet. Only likely to be air pressure if too high. So go for a medium air pressure, note your mix ratios & the amount of solvent will determine if it evaporates quickly - thus hitting the model dry & giving a gritty texture. It's really hard though - not an exact science by any means. Cut the Mr. Surfacer with Acetone & wear a mask. Trial & error is the only way here sadly.

[@danielebling]

I was told to use lacquer thinner

[@scalewarmachines]

+Daniel Ebling As that's lacquer it will make it quite glossy which explains things - try with Acetone for quick drying & atomised particles, hitting the model dry thus giving you the grit you are after!

[@danielebling]

I'm not after a gritty look I just assumed that's what mr surfacer did

[@scalewarmachines]

+Daniel Ebling As you've seen Mr Surfacer can also get you a glossy very smooth finish too - its good stuff. Generally, the outcome is always determined by the level of dilution/solvent you decide on.

[@stringtheoryguitare5110]

Would have been more complete if you discussed how to make it smooth too (gap filling).

[@scalewarmachines]

Yes it would. Just sand it when dry like any filler/putty.

[@breadiztasty]

you need to add lacquer thinner into the mr surfacer first before using it. and mr surfacer is surface primer for hand painting

[@scalewarmachines]

+Zhan Li Voo Not necessarily. When new out of the jar it is very liquid. You need to add lacquer thinner as it gets older & dries out - becoming much thicker.

[@jeffreyvargas79]

Very useful thx

[@kalosbas]

which model is it on 3:15?

[@scalewarmachines]

Bronco 1:35th scale Staghound.

[@kalosbas]

+Scale War Machines cheers!

[@Emtbtoday]

I don't know what I'm doing wrong with this stuff but it's bleeding awful for me! It seems to flak off or be so thin it comes off with any thinners when weathering through to the plastic or grey primer it doesn't seem to go rock hard like a filler would

[@scalewarmachines]

Unusual, it is a fresh bottle? Do you mix thoroughly?

[@mr-bruconut9278]

Can I use denatured Alcohol as thinner?

[@scalewarmachines]

This is a solvent-lacquer based product that needs a powerful thinner like acetone.

[@Pimentel-Kreations]

Tamiya putty looks better. Nightshift has a great tutorial in making cast texture

[@royshaw9299]

useful

[@nikoladze77]

Having an acetone is bad idea and would not recommend using it. It could melt the plastic surface . Better stick to the Mr. Hobby thinners instead.

[@scalewarmachines]

Either is fine. Acetone will only melt plastic if it is exposed for a relatively long time, like when paint stripping, or in quite large quantities (e.g. a puddle of it or when used wet in big quantities). When used like this is evaporates way before any harm is done to the underlying plastic. Whilst the Mr. Hobby thinners may be better it might be harder to get in some territories or by post. Acetone, on the other hand, is more common. Never had a problem using acetone this way in at least 20+ years.

[@nikoladze77]

@@scalewarmachines Yes, that's true what you are saying, but for some less experienced modelers it's more like they are playing with fire. Few more drops than usual or you accidentally spell it on the unpainted parts or model and its transparent like water so it could very easily be unnoticed, then damage is already done. I used once the small amount of acetone on cotton swab to remove the debris from putty and i noticed small dissolved area on plastic surface. It didn't melt it completely but enough to ruin some details (panel lines, small holes etc)

[@scalewarmachines]

Yes Acetone is something modellers should be handing with extreme care anyway, but you're correct, easy does it is the best way.

[@danielebling]

Acetone melts the plastic the model is made of

[@scalewarmachines]

+Daniel Ebling It does if you leave it in contact for a long time. But otherwise it's fine especially mixed with putty. We've never had a problem!

[@doctorgood2007]

My son thought you were Mark Ruffalo!

[@johnnypenso9574]

"Dilute modeling putties using liquid glue or acetone". There are 10 billion different liquid glues!

[@EricHonaker]

I've seen a thin styrene glue suggested, like Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr. Cement S.