How to Harden Leather Armor with Water

The list of tools and materials to get you started.
TOOLS rawhide mallet utility knife and extra blades scissors buffing tool steel ruler or a metal straight edge mini and maxi punch set thong punch set awl rivet setter/anvil bench vise (optional) kitchen cutting board
MATERIALS cardboard (from cereal or beverage boxes) rivets buckles braided cord of various sizes (we talked about polypropylene and waxed linen) leather (vegetable tanned saddle skirting) chrome tanned chap leather leather dye/with applicators Supershene finish
Here are some useful supply links for armor making
tandyleather.com
studsandspikes.com
artofwarriors.blogspot.com
Other sources for tools and supplies would be hobby, discount and hardware stores.
Some supplies can also be found online through Amazon, Etsy and Ebay.

[@jamespappas8205]

Brother! Liked and subscribed.. What a great video. I did my 1st leather project this past Wednesday (today is Friday). The project was armor for my dog .. it was ok.but bland.used a pop ribbit gun to attach each plate.has some spikes on it. With in 20mins I learned a lot from you.speak clearly at a good speed. Straight to the point.no dead time.no useless talk. Now I'm wanting to make a chest armor and brazers for myself.. Ty for the video.. have a fun safe day

[@linust1590]

You make great videos. It is perfect for beginners that may want to start makin stuff with leather. Thanks for sharing...

[@trmckay399]

I love watching you work and I appreciate the opportunity, Thank you !!

[@ernststavroblofeld2109]

Very cool, bud. Came here thinking about hardening knife sheathes. Learned a lot.

[@celtic88spirit]

Thank you very much for that tutorial! I'm just starting to craft leather, very handy video.

[@Gabdube]

AFAIK, wax-hardening was done with rawhide, not tanned leather. Many commonly-assumed historical uses of "leather" were actually using rawhide, because 1) tanning was expensive, and 2) tanning is counter-productive in this context. Tanning serves to keep the flexibility of the hide, which is actually detrimental to the material's performance in armoring. Rawhide boiled in wax and oil has superior potential as an armoring material, and would be quite a bit cheaper in a pre-industrial economy where tanned leather was very expensive. Historical hide armor was generally made of many small rigid plates rather than one large piece, and the pieces were usually lacquered to be even more resistant to wear and damage; the wax would not actually harm the performance of the armor.

[@disturbedsilence76]

I had to subscribe! great videos. I am a knife maker and I make my own leather sheaths but I am looking into getting more into leather work. I need to make a bracer just like the one you showed on this video so I am very glad I found your channel. will definitely continue watching and learning more!

[@Dldmny]

Appreciate your explanation of the whats and whys of the process!

[@angeliabradley4701]

I love your work. And you tutorials are extremely helpful. Thank you.

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Thanks for watching.

[@alangoode8354]

My experience of water hardening leather us as follows.... using warm water helps release any of the oils or waxes used during the manufacturing process. If you conduct an experiment by soaking the leather, work one section of that leather hard by compressing and/or twisting it and being gentle with the other part... the worked section will be noticeably harder. The fibres are compressed whilst wet which stiffens the leather. You get a similar stiffening if you roll the leather whilst it is wet and flat. If you wet form a mask you will notice the difference between the bends and the flats

[@kerrymcmanus9188]

Great work,you make it look easy, thanks

[@thedudedylan]

fantastic video, very informative and entertaining. definitely subscribing.

[@tassiespirit]

Great video, thanks. I have noticed that there are numerous places that say NOT do it the way you did and NEVER boil the leather. The option they offer is to place the leather in luke warm water to get air bubbles out and to bend the leather to the form you want. Then place it in the oven at 200 degrees F for a short time. Then take it out to finish drying. Then dye and finish the way you want as it becomes really stiff like wood.

[@mikeford963]

Basically the same process. Boiling implies the water is over 100 degrees Celcius(220F), his tap water is a little more than luke warm is all. I think in this case, the hotter water is doing the same thing as the warm oven. The only difference would be time. The oven will definitely be faster.

[@patriciariego4606]

@@mikeford963 Silly question here (I'm just starting)... Do I need to form it and let it dry completely before baking it in the oven? will it preserve it's pre formed shape? I have a thin vegetable dyed leather plate, but it's not holding the shape, it's quite floppy (I did a basic bag to practice) ..I'm not so sure if that process is going to work..

[@mikeford963]

@@patriciariego4606 Thin leather will need to be held in form while it dries I would think.

[@N4RCissus]

Great video.

[@jodylance1767]

would love to watch you build a dragon style helm start to finish , gonna be trying to do my own armor , but the helm is a lil tricky even when working with eva foam

[@billfinch4595]

love your videos, i would like to see one on puting muscle in front armor.

[@TexanRayne]

It’s a shame you’re not keeping up with your channel. It seems that leather is becoming popular again.

[@davidjensen4796]

It's only took me 7 years to watch your video I have to wind my tablet up is hard work anyway just going to buy some candles from AliExpress just that time of the year anyway off your pop😂

[@pippamiles7908]

Hello from England, i was just wondering if you had any tips for someone just venturing into the world of leather crafting? good video,quite informative :-)

[@christiancale1661]

Great video series; entertaining and super informative. Your videos are definitely helping me make my first set of armor. I have a quick question about tooling the leather and water hardening. Should you tool then water harden or vice versa? How does water hardening effect the decorative tooling (ie beveling, stamping, burnishing, etc.)? I can't wait for more video tutorials. Thanks!

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Thanks for watching, I'm so glad the vids are helping you create your own armor. To answer your question, I do the tooling while the leather is flat and before I wet form it. The tooling isn't usually affected by the wet forming.

[@stephenmcburney6088]

Thanks for the video. Is there any way of hardening leather with a high oil content? Or can you only harden particular kinds of leather?

[@N3gr0bitch]

Nice! What sort of dye is that?

[@epiper15]

So I'm just getting into leather work and have a couple questions. First off, can I water harden 2-3 oz leather? I'm not looking for rock hard just a little extra stiffness. Second, on that same 2-3 oz leather, can I use eyelets for the lacing or should I use grommets? Thanks in advance for the help

[@patriotsrebelsrogues7332]

hi sir , just watch this vid and was wonder if you would put studs/spot on before or after hardening ?

[@sethstatler8480]

What's the oz of thickness you have there? Looking for 3/16"-1/4" veg hide. Going to start making my own hybrid holsters. Ill be using veg tanned. Or start with hide and tan myself possibly. The piece your using is exactly the thickness I'm looking for. Thanks.

[@Jellyforge]

New viewer. Love your video this was really informative. I've heard that when soaking leather you wanna wait til bubbles stop appearing, is that true or do you just need to soak it until it's nice and workable?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey, thanks for subbing. When I'm soaking thicker leather I do usually wait til it stops bubbling or hissing which means it is saturated but more important the thick leather needs to be pliable. With thinner leather you don't want to soak it too long or it will be too floppy but just let it sit for a bit and it will stiffen up.

[@Pretendeavor1337]

Hey there. I found this video immensely helpful, as I've just started to get into leather working. Is there a way to tell the difference between vegetable and chrome tanned leather? I received a large shoulder of leather recently and I'm entirely new to leather work. Thank you.

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey, thanks for subbing. Vegetable tanned leather is usually not dyed and will absorb water readily, chrome tanned leather is usually dyed in a large vat with a chromium based colored dye and has a bit of a chemical smell. I hope this helps.

[@elizabethtassonecuprunneth7882]

If you wanted to paint the leather would you do before or after the hardening?

[@medicmanA1]

a couple of questions for you if I may. 1. Why did you dye the leather before you soaked it? I noticed you used an alcohol base did that prevent it from running when you soaked it or will it have the same effect if I use an oil base? 2. If I wanted to tool the leather and have a design in it for after it was molded at what point in your process would you recommend doing this? Thank you

[@williamkent2446]

Should I stain the leather before soaking/stiffening the leather?

[@NinjaHempKnight]

Do you ever line the inside of your pieces? Like with a thin suede for added comfort?

[@douglasvoss2778]

Love how after putting shiny eyelets on it, he then darkens part of the inside for stealthiness followed by a sheen to make it shiny. Interesting stealth technique.

[@another3997]

Lots of things in nature are more shiny than that bracer. That leather isn't particularly shiny, and it will wear off anyway. It's mainly a way of making it water resistant. If you're relying on your bracers to make you visually stealthy, you need to re-examine your ideas. Your head, face and other exposed skin are big visual giveaways, solid shapes are easily recognised, so disrupting a visual outline using shapes and colours is key. And any major movement will instantly give you away, no matter how good your camouflage.

[@kientzyj]

Hey! I was wondering what size of eyelets you are using in this video? Thanks!

[@anactualmarxist7442]

not sure if i just didnt pay attention well enough but how long did you soeak it and at what temp? great video!!

[@aaronparness2634]

Do you have a video on detail on creating the Brace and pattern?

[@The_Gallowglass]

Do you know any ways of making a very hardened piece of leather to soften and be less brittle? I want to keep it fairly rigid, but soften it a bit so it doesn't just crack up.

[@kristenbloschak3499]

I'm trying to make a leather armor vest and I'm kind of lost (an afraid to do anything to it because the leather was so expensive). Yours is black before you wet and form it. So did you stain it first? Do I stain it before I wet it, or after it's been wetted formed and dried? And you wait a while after the wetting it to actually go ahead and form it. So...you have that much time before the leather dries and hardens? It doesn't happen quickly? And I think mine is slightly thinner...and the design I'm going from has obvious machine stitch lines. Can I sew two pieces together on my sewing machine? Or do I need to do the eyelet hand stitch approach? Thank you for this video though!! I didn't even realize I had to use hot water. I thought any water would work, I was just going to have someone hold the pieces on me and spray water on with a squirt bottle.

[@meadisamazing3069]

My question is I'd like to know if you're going to put a design on the piece can you do that before you Harden the leather or after

[@thomasroberts3679]

Just wondering, is it possible to soak it multiple times to regain the floppiness after it stiffens?

[@earlandbob]

Hi! Great video! I learned a lot. I am looking to use this method of hardening to make myself a breastplate and shoulder pads in addition to bracers but I'm wondering how I would form it to my body, especially since I am female. I thought of maybe making a plaster mold of myself and using weights to hold it down while it dries but I'm not sure if that would work. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Thank you.

[@mikeford963]

Straps with a thick layer of padding, or something to prevent the shape of the straps being imprinted on the leather.

[@johnjensen4434]

What do you think of using bucks on your bracer

[@samwalsh205]

hello ^-^ I am going to be making leather shoulder armor as well as bracers and greaves. what thickness of leather would you recommend? and what kind? I am going to be putting designs into it so does that require a certain type of leather? thank you for making these videos, they are so helpful! :) oh and also is there a certain type of rivet or eyelet you would recommend for strength? thank you again

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey thanks for subbing. I would use lightweight saddle skirting, it is fairly thick and can be tooled. The skins vary in thickness from nine ounce up to twelve ounce, so you can use the thicker parts for breastplates, helmets and pauldrons. I use regular double cap steel rivets to fasten pieces together and I just place multiples in area where I need extra strength. You can buy nickel-plated brass rivets that are stronger but cost more. Steel tubular rivets are very strong but again, more costly. Copper or brass rivets and burrs are the strongest fasteners. As far as eyelets and grommets for holes, they are not necessary for the thicker leather, but of course are more decorative. Good luck on your armor project. Let me know how it goes.

[@OkieRCguy]

If you want your hardened leather tooled, would you do that before or after the hardening?

[@jugglinbob]

Do you have a pattern for this? I really tried to work out the dimensions, but I'm not sure I got it right. Still I only just about squeezed in 2 vambraces out of the thick leather I had anyhow without that asymmetric elbow piece!

[@James-wd9ib]

Oooh. I can think of a number of articles of clothing I want to make out of leather.

[@TheRychanek]

Question for you. Where would you get leather that thick? We have a fabric store but I do not think the leather is that thick. I posted this before watching the rest of the video. Dear God I miss shining boots. It was a meditative thing. Also happy Veterans day from an Army medic!

[@kh4rn4k23]

Go to tandy leather and search armor.

[@clarencesullivan1961]

I was wondering if this would be able to effectively resist sharp knives and swords? I was also wondering how you would do this if the piece was already made and had straps and buckles and articulated segments and the like already riveted on. Great video by the way.

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey, thanks for subbing. Hardened leather was designed to protect against slashes and be pierced easier. Most leather combat armor is layered and worn over chainmail further protection. I believe it would be difficult to harden a finished piece especially if it is chrome tanned leather.

[@mikeclardy5689]

where can i buy thick leather that isnt cured? I'd kinda like to make my own armor and boil/work it myself

[@karlhutson8821]

do you set it in the sun or heat of any kind, thanks

[@CenrionPrime]

so you can harden it after putting the color on?

[@taqqeek]

I really like this video. It is very detailed, I feel like I could make a pair today. I do have a question. While leather is great for protection from cuts and stabs it does not provide much protection from impacts (blunt force). some of the cloth armors like a gambeson act as padding; dulling the impact of blows. How could you add padding to your leather armor?

[@mikewhalen8020]

Don the padding before donning the leather armor. That would be simplest and reduce wear and tear, as well as being more historically accurate. Just remember to size your leather armor for the gambeson or padded arm pieces.

[@taqqeek]

@@mikewhalen8020 thank you for your feedback

[@mikewhalen8020]

@@taqqeek You are welcome sir. I have attempted in the past to actually add padding directly to the leather armor itself. I have to say I failed miserably. From what I've read, it was don the padding, then mail, then the leather. The problem is leather is an organic material and there just aren't that many surviving examples from the period.

[@leonmaechler]

how much bigger dose the pattern need to be because of the hardening proces?

[@codyironblood]

How do I water harden larger pieces such as a layered leather breastplate or other a leather corset

[@kathryndantonio6615]

I have 2 questions...1 how long does it usually take for the water aoaked piece to dry, and 2 how much does the leather shrink?

[@hopeindirect4165]

Craftsmanship of the masters. When I put on ma leather I made, and rock to sum Metallica, Delta Parole, Foo Fighters or the Smashing Pumpkins I feel like I can do anything in the whole wide world.

[@ralfbear]

Hi there. Just wondering... do you get any shrinking with your water hardening? Is that why you cut it slightly larger than the template? All the best, Ralf

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

+ralfbear Hey thanks for subscribing. Great question and something I forgot to address in my video. Yes, there is a little shrinkage especially if I dry pieces in the sun but only about 5 to10 %. I don't boil my water because that kind of hardening makes the leather somewhat brittle, it cracks more on the surface over time and it has more shrinkage to account for. If your water is around 150 degrees F it will harden the leather but it will still flex without cracking. That makes the leather pretty tough and it is just my preferred method.

[@ralfbear]

+Art Of Warriors Thanks for the info, take care.

[@billfinch4595]

Art Of Warriors im making a set of spalders and i was not sure if i should rivit the top to help make the cupping before or after water hardening

[@KingEhrys98]

Would you say 8-9 oz. leather is a thick leather?

[@josephcalvosa8272]

Is there a reason you don't use the back of the eyelets?

[@MrFlockhammer]

Just a question on leather working. What would be the best way to go about making a ridged box with leather with a door or lid? I would like to have the door attached with either magnets glued in the leather or some leather strapping as the hinge and latch. Any suggestions would be great!

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

The way I design a piece depends on the genre I'm going for. If you want a mechanical, industrial look you will use rivets and hardware with hard edges and angles. if you want something organic or primitive you will use stitching and lacing with with smoother edges and curves. if you want something in between, well you get the idea. Hope this helps.

[@Ptolomia]

If I use a water based dye, and let it dry completely before water hardening it, will water hardening it still ruin the dye job?

[@damiaan7021]

I have a few questions, if you mentioned this I must've missed it watching the video twice, how thick is the leather you use and how thick should the leather be to protect your from a blunt steel blade? How much will the leather shrink? And last, A bracer like you made just now, how hard is the result, by that I mean how well does it protect from impact, would I have to properly boil my leather or is hot water like this enough?

[@danielsmith5664]

leather like what he did, is rated to be used in parts of SCA heavy combat. I'd imagine it wouldnt be as good for repelling impact compared to steel but it should do a passable job. I don't know how thick his leather is, but from my research 9 - 12 OZ (1 OZ = 1/64 of an inch) should be sufficient to make armour grade leather. you want to be careful about boiling leather. if you mistime it the leather will become to brittle. Water hardening like he did is actually better because it's more controlled. theoretically you could do it with colder water, it would just take longer.

[@hjalti0000]

Would be cool if we could have a copy of the actual template

[@horseman1968]

So, SCA?

[@NightWarp]

I tried to harden with near boiling water some years ago.. the timing was crucial between very thick and hard leather that can resist steak knife slash and a useless shrinked piece of rubbish. I never thought to use/check if hot tap water would work! I will investigate that tonight i think. Only ever got it to work once, and looking at your video i can see where i made mistakes. The buffin tool you used, is there another video with more information about it and or how exactly you used it?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

The hot water from my tap runs around 150 degrees F and the lower temp is a little more forgiving. For buffing the edges I use wooden clay modeling tools, they are cheap, come in all kinds of shapes and seem to last forever.

[@shartslaw322]

Hi, just curious how much shrinkage in the leather is there, does it shrink a lot or not much?

[@reallemonstealer1219]

The hotter it is, the more it shrinks. Most people keep to the 180 degrees rule, which is good, but it can shrink a little bit. Realistically you can have the water between 120-180 depending upon the ounce thickness of the leather. If you let that leather sit in the water until all the bubbles are gone, you will see that the leather will be very flexible, pliable, and stretchy. The stretchiness only lasts a couple of minutes after leaving the water so you have to work fast if you want to counteract the shrinkage a little bit.

[@MockingBirdthewizard]

it would be nice if you linked to the specific tools and materials you used in the video, in the description below the video (where you link to tandy, studsandspikes, etc) I'd like to see what that supersheen stuff is, the edge buffing tool, etc. you can even set up amazon affiliate links so that if I link through to amazon from your description, that you get a kickback from anything I but. this will save me having to read through tons of links and opinions about tools similar to what you're using. and time saving is part of why I'm watching a video in the first place. also a section at the front of the video showing "this is what I'm about to make", followed by a section "these are the tools I'll be using" (they don't have to go into details about the tools, that's what the description area with links is great for). these few things will make this much more like a killer tutorial, a la makezine.com otherwise, I hope you keep up the videos. :-)

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Thanks for the feedback and affiliate suggestion, sadly Colorado is one those states that was banned by Amazon because they wanted to charge tax.

[@ajourneysaved4311]

I still have my jungle boots. I only kept my jump boots shiny for promotional purposes.

[@heldervilaca518]

Hello!! New viewer from Portugal. Loved your tutorial. Thanks a lot you helped me a lot, but if i want to shape leather into a "spartan" like muscular breastplate how do i get the pectorals and the six pack abs shape on it? Once again, thank you and stay well.

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey, thanks for subbing and commenting. There are a couple of ways to make the muscles on your armor. I just hand sculpt mine with the assistance of some wooden tools. Alas you are not the first viewer to inquire about this, so I should probably do a video already.

[@92000]

How thick was your leather for arm guards?

[@danielcrawford7315]

Seba92000 you'll want to inquire about skirting leathers. The Thicker the better. 14 - 16 oz would work but it's better of you double it. Can do it w some ornimintation or even use rawhide. The hotter the better for hardening both tanned and rawhide. There is historic application of boiling rawhide in wax n lil mixture for a few hours then baking it around 225 deg for around 12 to 15 hrs. It's called Currie brule I think

[@nuparadigm4419]

The term is Cuirbouilli, which is French for boiled leather and current theories regarding historical techniques used have pretty much ruled out the use of wax in the process. Wax hardening does work, but there is no historical evidence that supports this was an in-period application. There are too many references to Cuirbouilli pieces having been painted with gesso and then gilded. Which simply will not work with wax-hardened pieces. Gesso and gilding simply will not stick to wax impregnated leather. Whereas it apparently works great with properly water-hardened leather.And as to "the hotter the better", only if you want to ruin some too expensive leather and have to start over. If you have too high a heat or soak it too long in the hot water, the leather shrinks a lot, thickens up and becomes too brittle to be useable. There are some very good articles available on experiments with water-hardening techniques that have pretty well determined that the ideal target temperature is 180°F. It is at this water temperature that leather literally becomes like plastic and can be stretched over a form or shaped and molded and when it dries completely it is remarkably tougher, without becoming brittle or prone to cracking under the abuse of combat.Check out this article by David Friedman (Duke Cariadoc in the SCA) on his experiments with making Cuirbouilli: www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/Articles/Perfect_Armor_Improved.htm

[@christophgriener9852]

You mold it to your own six-pack of course! 😉

[@timothynaquin8899]

When hardening lamellar armor, should the scales be hardened before assembly or after?

[@TM4CHII]

timothy naquin Bit late, but I'd assume beforehand.

[@2bingtim]

Always before!

[@kageyfna]

Does it matter if you dye it before water hardening or not?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

I like to dye my pieces while they are flat so I have more control of the application. Some colors will fade slightly in the water but the that just makes them a little more vibrant and rich looking. The oxblood red looks a little pink so I will add another coat after the leather dries.

[@BoxJoe136]

what if you water cooled it like metal

[@ajameshardwick]

Is there a suggestion or video pending to do knee and elbow cops?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

You are the first to request that and I will put it on my list. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@Dasplitz]

Excellent videos, however the sound quality should be improved! I don’t know who’s operating the camera but they are too noisy, I keep hearing this squeaky sound, a major distraction for my a.d.d. and ocd. I hope you will fix this sometime. Apart from that most excellent content!

[@MegaKaron]

How would you line the bracers with fur?

[@RobC0313]

you can either hand stitch or use leather glue or gorilla glue. If hand stitching, you'll want to make your stitch holes before hardening.

[@zurviver_3747]

Is this normal tanned leather that you would pick up from at a store or special?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Regular veg tanned leather of all thickness can be wet formed and hardened and chrome tanned leather can be wet formed but it does not harden the leather and it has to be sewn or riveted to hold it's shape.

[@aubreymorris9183]

Ok so just how hard does water curing ACTUALLY make the leather? It seems to me that it's still very soft with respect to actually being struck with a weapon. Would you be confident enough in the hardness of this process to wear it while facing a real opponent with a bow, dagger, axe, or sword that is the real thing not a movie prop?

[@stelladossantos5110]

Hello! Probably unlike other viewers, I'm a writer doing a fantasy/action story. I'd like to know how strong this armour is? I mean, how strong of a blow would it be able to protect you from? And how sharp would a blade have to be to cut through it? Thanks :)

[@reallemonstealer1219]

Probably a little late now, but once leather is rock hard, it can’t be cut. There’s a chance that pieces can shatter due to blunt force impact, but hard leather is not going to be cut. It’s also important to note that even though you are doing fantasy, leather armor would be impractical for even small armies because harvesting, tanning, and forming leather is such a tedious process. You may want to consider keeping leather at a minimum depending unless it’s for an important character or the main character.

[@stelladossantos5110]

@@reallemonstealer1219 Oh, I didn't even remember writing this, but thank you! It's so kind of you to reply all these years later. I honestly can't remember what I was writing that needed this information, but it's super useful to know about the hardened leather. Never knew it was so tough! I'll stick to mail-equipped armies. Thank you again.

[@crwydryny]

the joys of being from a country that isn't the US, when he says 150 degrees straight from the tap I'm like WTF??? that's steam, water boils at 100... oh right Fahrenheit, for those of us in the rest of the world that's only 65.5 degrees

[@MountainFisher]

AAnd your point being what? You're superior or something? Leather is measured in ounces per square foot too, it's romantic and quaint.

[@rakkartta4535]

@@MountainFisher and whats your point sunny boy you insinuating something

[@MountainFisher]

@@rakkartta4535 Go shit and fallback in it.

[@samanthapateman8054]

I guess you would harded it after any stamping ect

[@RockMonger]

Rule #1 You CAN'T be uncomfortable when smashing heads with hammers. 😂

[@patriotsrebelsrogues7332]

if your not comfortable smashing heads then you shouldn't smash a head should you?

[@resinrick]

where can i get the pattern for the bracers?

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Hey, thanks for subbing. I will try to post the pattern here somehow so everyone can have it but I have to figure out how first.

[@cjf-rw8vl]

why not add small plates of harder leather using 180 degree water, should maintain its flexibility but up the protection

[@hankhill1230]

stupid question : can leather salvaged from a sofa be used??

[@bor_is_baas8986]

ofcoure it can

[@2bingtim]

It can, but it is usually chrome tanned, so is no use for water hardening.

[@tylerthomasiii2171]

What about studded leather armor...your thoughts!

[@cjf-rw8vl]

Tyler Thomas III it doesn't work, it's pure fantasy

[@thatnogoodfool8943]

im a blacksmith hot is my job not ryming but i do want to try leather smithing or what ever its called

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

Leather working is something you should know if you are making metal armor there can be a good deal of leather straps and such to hold it on your body.

[@thatnogoodfool8943]

Art Of Warriors well i always had and interest in it and wanted to make my own samurai so ill give it a shot and hopeful your very well made and instructed videos will help. Also i you have made a video on how to make a leather chest plate i would love to see if not i really hope you do that and maybe one on making shoes.

[@ArtOfWarriors11]

I'm thinking I should make more tutorials on on the rest of the Samurai kit including the Do (breastplate) it is some of my favorite armor after all.

[@thatnogoodfool8943]

Art Of Warriors ok thank you so much

[@danielmankey9635]

You stated that your water is about 150 degrees HOT....THE HUMAN SKIN would blister at this temperature. So stated...how are you sticking your hands in the hot water without BURNING YOUR HANDS.....my guess is your water is NOT 150 degrees but 110 ....115 degrees

[@petersmedley459]

Daniel Mankey Fahrenheit, not centigrade....

[@cjouellet8021]

FYI, when lacing your arm piece, reverse the way you have the string set up so the string does not fall in your wrist area. :)

[@rustybayonetcom]

Burnish

[@davidjensen4796]

Well you are soaking that leather sling some soaping wash your hands and face

[@moredepressolessespresso5944]

Is it possible to make leather bullet proof or bullet resistant?