How to Install an Engine Mount Upgrade | MK7.5 GTI

[@MikeEtzel-x3p]

Great Video. This mount is easy to replace. Took my 40 minutes and I'm not fast... THANKS! (The Upper Transmission Mount took me FAR longer to change.... PIMA!!!

[@Florida_Boi_333]

Excellent video! Thanks!

[@BourneMiami]

Great video and I appreciate you showing us how you jacked up the car. Hoping BFI has a Black Friday sale on these!

[@MegaHollywood1971]

Very smooth install instruction Paul 👍

[@Avram42]

Thanks for this video! One thing I noted was when going to remove the coolant reservoir is I just popped that whole hose junction off the unit which seemed far simpler than trying to fish into the connection for just the one hose. I don't know if gives you less flexibility but it seemed alright to move around. Isn't it weird how metric sets sometimes skip 16mm and 18mm but both are required here? 🤔

[@badrababane9647]

Thank you for this amazing video ❤

[@chitown849]

Is it worth getting dogbone mount, motor mount, & transmission mount? I am apr stage 2... was wondering if it really does help or if I just need to get one over the other.

[@dylansmith3]

At least a dog bone mount to compensate the increased torque from the tune. Motor mount eventually because out of the factory they fail due to engineering

[@vwgti8091]

Would a bad stock pendulum mount cause a click noise when giving it a little gas and letting off?

[@dylansmith3]

@@vwgti8091 hard to diagnose over a message, does the clicking noise happen if you just hold the throttle at 1500rpm? Is it a constant click or just one click? A bad pendulum mount would cause the motor to shift back and fourth more. Maybe have a second person watch the motor as you hit the throttle a few times in park to see if the motor has a lot of movement

[@78destro]

You can Jack on the pendulum mount.

[@dramchaser1022]

When should you use a stage 1 rather than a stage 2 motor mount? Would the stage 1 be used on a reflash and the stage 2 would be used on the is38 turbo swap? Thanks in advance.

[@ians3698]

Both stage 1 and stage 2 will be sufficient, it's about how much noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) you are willing to put up with.

[@timmikesh838]

Stage 2 is for track cars and cars with stage 2 engine/trans mods.

[@MegaHollywood1971]

Old post I know - These BFI mounts are Polyurethane @70a durometer (Stage 1) and @85a (Stage 2). You will want to service them in time; could range between 20-30K mi. There are other options and one is CTS' Street Sport Engine/Trans mounts that are 60a and made of rubber. They are a great upgrade to stock and don't provide nearly the NVH these would. However, if you have a built motor and are putting out much much bigger power + racing the car, then the stiffer would be preferred. That's such a small population.

[@mben1072]

Love the videos I have an 2012 Audi A7 and was hoping that the videos you make for the s4 would be ok for my car or what I could do for my car for more power. Please help looking forward to chatting with you and getting your ideas.

[@thomascrear1589]

0:52

[@RobertLeBlancPhoto]

I’m wondering how I already have scratches on my composite pan on my 2018 S3. 🤔

[@augysteen3260]

to swap inserts... would you still have to jack engine up?

[@jackjoachim318]

is it possible for the driver side mount to make noise? like a creak?

[@RobertLeBlancPhoto]

Jack Joachim Engine mount noise is typical when silicone lube is omitted and fasteners aren’t torqued down correctly.

[@iZephiroth]

Does a Fluidampr help with the NVH that’s caused by aftermarket mounts?

[@MegaHollywood1971]

Not one bit. Don't fall into the "Crank wheels make more power" shinanigan. They're like intakes, you don't need them.

[@rfr3620]

Excuse me for being ignorant, but doesn't it mean the oil pan is even lower now??🤔

[@dmitry.clarke]

What’s the point of upgrading this? What performance gain are we talking? I have an automatic APR Stage 1.

[@BenDover-io9vg]

Makes your car feel more raw and tight. Should reduce wheelhop and general slop, increasing traction.

[@dylansmith3]

Pretty sure the oem mounts blow too, crazy play around 30k+ miles

[@fredygump5578]

Any chance of a review on how these mounts perform? I'd like to get an idea of the trade-off between comfort lost and performance gained?

[@OtisFlint]

Get the Stage 1 mounts. NVH isn't bad at all. Stage 2 sucks on a daily driver IMO.

[@aviationmike2947]

Made a huge difference, especially with the stg 2 dog bone. There is vibration on cold start but it settles down and feels good daily driving

[@fredygump5578]

@@aviationmike2947 Does it just reduce wheel spin? Or is it also smoother clutch "bite"? No matter how hard I try to shift smoothly, I always get a little "jolt" when engaging the clutch. (In other cars, I can shift so smooth people think it's an automatic...). I know there is a valve or something in line with the clutch to make shifting easier, or something....I've been blaming that, but I forget what it's called. But maybe what I'm feeling is the engine rocking around?

[@aviationmike2947]

fredy gump I still have a bit of a jump when shifting so the mounts have nothing to do with that. I can feel it more the car is at low RPM due to increased vibration.

[@ians3698]

@@fredygump5578 remove the spring that is attached to the clutch pedal...

[@floorcoatin4u]

I dont agree with the foam. The reason being is that the strongest points on the pan are going to be the corners and bends, the foam redirects weight distribution to inner flat surfaces where it is more likely to dent.

[@Zakw17]

Any tips for jacking up on the plastic pan....

[@sebastianludwig3800]

Wo gibt es die motorlager

[@sebastianludwig3800]

Hallo wo gibet die lager mfg?

[@MrZimmaframe]

Why the heck did VW make a sump out of plastic, i swear sometimes designers are moving backwards

[@comonerleon]

MrZimma frame honestly they cheaper the fuck out on our engine

[@sebastian-daquanglocknerjr1883]

depends who you ask. people in the rust belt probably dont mind. there should have been a compromise though, like plastic coated pan or a metal protector

[@MegaHollywood1971]

In colder climates, you'd have condensation and in hotter climates, you would have hotter oil. It's well-thought-out engineering. Those that aren't Engineers will only see what they see instead of investigating further.

[@MrZimmaframe]

@@MegaHollywood1971 Lol funny you should say that actually because I studied Mechanical Engineering at University.. And even I think it's a shit idea having a plastic oil sump, and so did VW which is why a lot of their models have gone back to metal sumps... Condensation shouldn't be an issue if an engine is heat cycles regularly (only long periods of sitting affect condensation inside the engine sump. I would worry more about the top of the engine not having oil there from sitting more so). And second you mentioned hot oil, automotive oil performs best at an optimum temperature of 90c, reducing the time it takes to warm up is actually beneficial to reduce long term engine wear. The only benefit with a plastic sump is it's more thermally efficient, so better start up if a car has been sat for 1-2 hours in 0c temps but longer than that their isn't much benefit, plus if you crack your sump rather than denting it you won't be going anywhere fast without oil in your engine. VW did it to save a few coins, that's the real reason because the ones looking at production costs and sales they are the one that determine what the Engineering's work on next, I know because I have been there...

[@isaimartinezr]

Hello guys, I’m a client of you, I just got the MK7.5 GTI without the virtual cockpit, if you guys make a tutorial retrofitting the virtual cockpit I’ll purchase it from your page