How to install an oil pan... without leaks, the first time.

Watch as I install my oil pan and share some tips and tricks that I learned for a successful (non leaking) repair.
I found a lot of useful info here:
www.saturnfans....
This engine is for my 1995 Saturn SW2, I am using a block from a 1997 SL2 and a professionally rebuilt head. All of this was due to poor compression.
Long story short...
My 95 SW2 engine went south, bought a rusted out 97 SL2 for the engine. That engine had no compression on cylinder 3. Yanked both engines out, found burnt valves on the 97. Of course all of this snowballed and I decided to go with a professionally rebuilt head and to do rings, bearings, seals, etc.
Having passed the point of no return I found unibody frame rot and the beginnings of subframe rust so I had to tackle those too.

[@chiconian49]

Good video. Now let's see you do it lying on your back under your car, like most of us have to do it. LOL

[@namewithheld7835]

right.. this is optimum conditions working in an air conditioned shop..with the engine upside down.. not struggling under an oil drenched car needing an oil pan badly. I will use the guides this time, and buy a new oil pan. .. I've done this 3 times and still have leaks

[@wallacehebert9213]

Very good presentation that was very informative and educational for me. I learned a lot about how to approach working on the oil pan and replacement. .

[@capnbly]

on your back situation. I would use the two stud guides with just enough threads to easily put two nuts on to hold pan against the block while I install the bolts

[@tsgarage2382]

right lol

[@OWK000]

I had that problem PLUS a new allergic reaction to the Permatex which made me sick. Have a Nissan so only need Permatex or other black sealant on one side so let it cure a little before getting under car, wear gloves and maybe wear a gas mask or have a fan running to blow the stink away. Might have to also make sure all the other engine bolts are at the right torque so there is no oil leaking down the cracks. It's really tough with the oil continuing to ooze down constantly for a really long time. Almost impossible on a sealant only model car. I like the head-chopped alignment bolts--that might speed things up.

[@jimtrenton7674]

I am 59 years old and just bought my 1st torque wrench. I am doing a motor rebuild for the very 1st time and watching all of the KZbin videos that I can find. I like your video you made a lot of sense and using a torque wrench to me it now makes a lot of sense to use one so thank you very much for your video.

[@mashooga]

Oh, my freaking gosh, you not only helped me with getting a better seal for pan on my 1980 Chevy K5...but you cracked me up with not showing face through video, yet adding the couple issues you advised to be sure not have, during work...IT SO REMINDED ME OF WHEN MY DAUGHTER WAS A TEEN AND WOULD DO THE SAME TO ME WHILE I WAS DOING BUSY WORK!!....too funny.........SUBSCRIBED!!!! thank you

[@quibz2012]

dude when you pulled that gun out of your engine I totally lost it! I thought, You gotta live in Texas. Great video, wish my engine was in the garage like that.

[@alienboy3942]

Great video, well presented; with no ego.

[@Fireship1]

Very well presented. That's from someone who has been a ASE certified mechanic for many years. You would make a good instructor. You described this job to a "T". Thanks for sharing.

[@Illsky9]

Don't you love when you're in the middle of something then the infamous "hey dad" appears.

[@JoLoneyMusic]

I don't care how overly careful you were. This helped a lot, as I'll be changing my oil pan on my WRX later this week. Great tips to ensure no leaks!

[@jeffwilliams5987]

Thank you very good video with some good tips, these I shall be using for my first experience with a liquid gasket. After years of leaking joints on my cars. Regards Jeff New Zealand

[@miguelsandoval9862]

Great information, I am working on a Nissan sentra 2006, and your video shows me that this car have not gasket and I have to use ultra black rtv seal to make the gasket, thank you for your help...

[@zapszapper9105]

Thank you lots of helpful tips enabling me to do it once and right.

[@blairguinea6811]

Awesome video SIR.............such a detailed performance and really one of the best i've seen on this topic. I am at this stage tomorrow, yes upside down........already done it twice and still leaking! I had thought it was right BUT now you have helped me and it will be perfect................Thanks so much, plus the additional amusement

[@redneckcomputergeek]

This video was AWESOME!!!! A lot of it is use full info that could easily be adapted to use in resealing a trans axle in a lawn tractor so i posted it to my facebook group Maine Mud Mowers. Hope you get some more views on it and keep up the great how to videos.

[@LuchoPortugayo]

Those couple of studs to keep straight the tray during the assembly was a great idea!.. tkx good man

[@budsodalsky]

I liked: 1) The gun stuffed in the engine 2) the conniption fit when the kid says "dad" 3) the chevy orange or red repaint of the oil pan Thanks!

[@wtf235235]

As an engineer working with engines this is pretty much accurate. One suggestion I might add is, when you put the pan on a flat surface to check flatness, you can also try to insert a cardboard between the pan and surface all around to find out wavy spots

[@dougsand8838]

Great job! And the guide bolts are like"why the hell didn't I think of that before" damn good idea!

[@williamlee1950]

Nice Video There were a couple things that I would add: 1. When wiping surfaces with solvent wipe in one direction only to avoid leaving residue. 2. Whatever amount of RTV oozes out on the outside will also ooze out on the inside. This excess RTV can and will end up in the pick-up screen of the oil pump, so getting just the right amount is very important.

[@user-gx9xr4mw7e]

+William Lee i was thinking No 2 as he was torquing it down

[@Ritalie]

+William Lee Good tips! I hadn't thought of wiping in one direction, how obvious. Wow. Regarding the silicone, this only happens to Chevy people who are working on their first 350 V8 truck engine. haha. No really, if you let the silicone cure overnight, silicone is very strong and won't come off and go into the oil pickup screen. If you don't let it cure, it very well could though. Of course if you use way too much silicone, then it could go into the engine, yes. But I've always used a tremendous amount of silicone and have always let it cure for 12 to 20 hours before starting the engine, and I've never seen any of the silicone come loose, even though there are big globs inside the oil pan.

[@edwardegnor8812]

Tip for future reference. You should have waited after you snugged the bolts down for a couple hours to let the sealer to cure for a optimum seal

[@Engineerboy100]

Good Job! From a fellow mechanic and engineer.

[@joubess]

Any color RTV will work fine. Toyota gasket maker (FIPG) works really great, too, as does Honda Bond. I'll be using a gasket so I won't need much RTV, only a bit at each corner of the gasket. Definitely use a torque wrench to tighten nuts and bolts on the oil pan. The torque is really low, 80 inch lb. here, 8.7 ft. lb. on Honda B-engines. Also F-engines. Overtightening causes leaks, so don't overtighten the fasteners.

[@fredmyers566]

Great job, I`m working on my 1995 saturn sc series, replaceing the subframe.

[@michaeldunagan8268]

@12:40 I've used the black permatex. It is specifically for engine oils. The instructions on the tube to say to let it "skin over". This would be things like valve covers and timing belt covers. And I did let the skin over on my time cover on my 99 Solara. However, I agree with you that since you don't want to be pulling your oil pan off probably ever again, I would get the mating surfaces together before it skins over. TIP- I use lint-free raggs from Advanced Auto Parts to ensure that no lint is left on the mating surfaces of where I'm going to be applying a form-in-place-gasket. FUN FACT- Toyota FIPG 103 is used on oil pans, semi-circular plugs in the head cylinder head (if applicable like it is on my 1MZFE), and certain crevices on one side of each cylinder head that form an acute angle that the regular rubber gasket may not be able to reach (again, 1MZFE workshop manual).

[@ipdjbt]

Great tips just in time as I repair the leaking intake manifold on my LT1

[@scottlambert-gorwyn6443]

A huge THANKS. Before I put the new oil pan on a 429, I watched your video. Cutting the slots into some bolts worked WONDERS cleaning out the bolt holes, I had never seen that done. So many times have I needed to clean out some threads, now I know how. Then I cut the heads off and used them as studs to line up the pan, worked GREAT! If it wasnt for you taking the time to show that level of detail, you would have heard me cursing from there! Thanks again.

[@pcofranc]

Great job presenting good, clear info. I almost never use a torque wrench. I'm in the process of doing a head gasket on my 1997 saturn sw2 and will be using the torque wrench for head bolts. An extra benefit of using a torque wrench is that the bolts are all applying the same amount of pressure.

[@ThePopularDelusion]

tips for youtubers:> on a head, not only do they need to be torqued, but they must be torqued in a specific order. AND if your car has an engine that has "stretch bolts" then the head bolts must all be new, and NOT reused.

[@pcofranc]

I got good results EXCEPT one minor error: in the corner where the timing chain cover meets the oil pan I pried the oil pan slightly + I did not use enough gasket cement so there is a very small leak. SOLUTION always use enough gasket cement so that when the pan is bolted up it squeezes out all the way around the oil pan - IF it does not - drop the pan right away and add more in those spots and reinstall. Don't be afraid that it will get inside the motor as it bonds to itself and is unlikely to break off and travel inside the motor.

[@MrTarzan152]

Very detailed and well explained. Thank you. You have a Bob Ross type of calm to your voice and the humorous spots on your video were perfect. Hilarious. Not sure if I'll ever get a chance to fix my oil pan gasket with the engine out but I truly enjoyed your video.

[@steveangiulli6816]

Great video, very informative, intuitive and concise!

[@AbhishekKumar1902]

Better apply the gasket maker on the engine side, it gives best results always, makes alignment easy at the end loint when both the surfaces meet.

[@thomascrown5220]

I think you're the main man! Very thorough. Don't forget, Murphy's Law.. he he.. You'll be alright. Working on cars is therapy Good luck.

[@walterpalmer2749]

Excellent.....A job slowly done is "surely" done. Methodical.

[@emotionz3]

Probably the best guide to applying RTV on KZbin. Every trick he did, I recommend, ESPECIALLY using "headless" bolt threads to guide the pan on. This is critical if installing from the undercarriage; you'll never line it up perfectly without guide bolts.

[@DoSumpthin]

Tim W Thank you sir!

[@athhud]

Felpro usually includes plastic studs with their gaskets and the pan will "snap" in place over the studs, so not only do they line it up, but they will hold the pan up until you get your bolts and wrench in hand.

[@TheRachelabomb]

Wish I knew that before buying! ty

[@crpth1]

It's kind of sarcastically funny but most French cars. Namely, my Peugeot's and Citroen's have a very simple solution. The oil sump is fixed with bolts all around, just like any other, nothing new here. EXCEPT for two studs, standing on opposite sides of the sump. That obviously use a couple of nuts. Simple and basic. No need to "invent" with headless bolts, plastic studs, etc. They're just there. ;-)

[@viking90706]

Yes but wood dowels can work.

[@Ferdinand.Quiqueran]

Very good video. helped me very much. tomorrow im doing it in a Ford 221 inline 6 engine

[@kaveh1836]

I reallly liked this video, this guy has a cool attitude

[@connorswanson6725]

Love it! Great video. Are you worried about any RTV squeezing out into the engine where the oil will sit like how it squeezed out?

[@andyst.michael6643]

If you read the back of your gasket maker, it will tell you to put a bead of caulking on your piece and put the pan on but not to tighten it until it forms a gasket in about an hour. Then tighten the bolts down. You learn a lot be reading the manufactures instructions. Great video all the same.

[@mback12000]

This!!

[@Ammochannel]

Yeah, tell me about it! :)

[@mikeireland8032]

Thanks for the info, I like the stud idea for keeping the pan straight and which permatex to use also helps.

[@kyral19]

dude knows how to make a good informative video.

[@flinch622]

When you're that deep into an engine, it's always nice to decarbonize/get rid of varnish buildup. Washing parts with mineral spirits does a really nice job I think. The varnish won't hurt things, but heavy carbon coming loose will recycle through the oil pump and maybe damage bearing surfaces it's first trip through the system. Just me, but I would avoid putting a pan back on without a litte extra cleanup.

[@arnoldbaclig2516]

you did a good job.. and torque is very important...

[@IPHATBOYCHIEFO]

Very good video. I am mechanic from England and I am doing the exact same job as your have done on my Shogun sport warrior. There is alot of different views on here on how to do this job, but i am going to take your advice. I have always had a gasket before, now using silicone this should be interesting. cheers

[@MrFreeze79]

lol i love the part with the gun.

[@strumpeteer]

11:28 LOL, thanks for leaving that in, That made my day! Informative video BTW, I'm doing this next week.

[@kennyc388]

Dude started his video off without screeching, "Hey Guys!".....BRAVO ! Informative and thorough video with a clear and understandable speaking voice and decent filming!

[@sebastienquenneville496]

The part with the gun haha! Nice Tips Do Thanks!

[@thersten]

you would think he was working on the space shuttle

[@DoSumpthin]

thersten Space Shuttle - Saturn - close enough.

[@thersten]

***** hehe, ur right about that.

[@tomwalters7550]

thersten Meaning it probably won't leak.

[@thersten]

Tom Walters meaning he's inefficient, will lose his job and have to work with the Russians

[@vitiay]

+thersten I would think you work for Walmart lube express )

[@dougbas3980]

Thank you. I am doing a 1958 Ford 601 tractor. It seems the normal approach is a cork gasket. The question is dry gasket? RTV one side or RTV both sides. I will be on a creeper underneath, so the alignments studs will help a lot, so thank you for that.

[@Mickey_Bauer]

Ahahahahaha 11:24 made my day =) Thanks for this video!

[@tuffytoys9707]

9 years on and this video was one of the better ones that I have seen on re-sealing the oil pan. Thank you very much for the info and taking the time to make this video.

[@howardblasingame7961]

Nine years ago! Holy moly. Howz the Saturn doing?

[@robert-bg9pf]

Using a couple of bolts with the heads cut off to locate the oil pan seriously makes the job easier and much less likely to leak. Guide bolts ensure you do not have to slide the pan around to line up the bolt holes, which smears the silicone around thinning it out instead of keeping it where it is needed to make the seal.

[@spettro9]

Very cool video, your calm, clear manner is great. I replaced head gasket on my 2001 Saturn SC1 (SOHC) because of small oil leak 2 years ago, and am about to take the whole engine apart to add the piston oil ring holes as your video shows very nicely... A few thoughts on the oil pan: - what about the timing chain cover? a lot of us would be taking that off as well, and the 2 seals are related, as they're the same process and interface in a "T" junction, my intuition says to use a (metal) strait edge to get the bottom face of the timing chain cover absolutely in line with the flat of the block where it mate with oil pan... - shouldn't we make sure not to let too much RTV squeeze on the inside, for fear that some bits or hunks break off and clog up oil passages? - I think we all could torque things by hand, but I don't think to Torque or not to Torque is really a question... hehe - I used Permatex Ultra Black RTV, no leaks... my only question, can I use the stuff I bought 2 years ago, (or even the stuff from a few years before that? ...from sister's 99 VW Golf) Anyway, your videos are Great!

[@Stefancy]

Thanks man. Doing this on my 2002 Honda Civic Ex! :)

[@shanequinn8356]

You sure got this right using Acetone. I followed the same advice on my Mazda Auto pressed metal pan to alloy auto body. No skin and 2 alignment bolts - yes. I was told to finger snug tight the first seal then leave 24hrs to re-tighten. Mine still totally sealed after 2yrs and I recommend your video. Clean off the old gasket and Uber clean the mating faces is the most important part.

[@ZERONEINNOVATIONS]

I have tips if you guys are going to use Ultra black. Apply continuous bead! Follow the torque spec! I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my 02 civic EX yesterday and it's leaking again. Torque spec for my car was 8.7 ftlb so I tightened up to 9.7 ftlb. But one bolt kept spinning at 9.5ftlb and eventually twisted off. I tightened all bolts with a crisscross pattern, I hand tightened, waited 1 hr, 9.5ftlb tightened, waited 24 hrs and added oil. Test drove the car and found it's leaking from the oil pan AGAIN. Probably because I didn't apply the "continuous bead".

[@rey0176]

use a ball peen hammer to flaten out the oil pan holes when they bend upwards use the steel slab u have lay the lip flat on it and hit it inwards.thats how u can get em back to oem place and will seal perfect.

[@hashiramasenju4846]

"Hey dad?" Lmao!

[@cr7juve679]

I like the temporary studs idea, will be using that when I change the oil pan gasket on my 00 Civic

[@blairguinea1337]

Top video Sir .........extremely informative thank you

[@wave9209]

thanks for posting. looks very helpful just picked up ultra Gray from my Land Rover transmission pan going to give it a try tomorrow let you know how it works out. again thanks for posting.

[@randyjones6347]

Well done! I'll be tackling this (for the second time) this weekend. First time resulted in a leak on the transmission side of the pan where the two bolts are hard to get to when the engine is in the car. Maybe a 'lil snub nose revolver will fall out...

[@ralphzabalza1177]

Thank you very much! Very articulate with your video.

[@pentiuman]

Thumbs up - but sorry to hear you have a Saturn. ha

[@paredding]

Really great video - thanks, the best in a dozen or so I looked at. Ostensibly it's a simple process but the devil is in the detail. You are the first person to mention that the sealant goes down the centre groove in the pan rim. Its not obvious but this confirms it. On the bolt cleaning, also to ensure the underside of the washer is clean (I use a brass wire wheel) as they sometimes have radial grooves in them so that when tightened they resist undoing (in addition to any Loctite you apply). Very good idea on the alignment studs too as the slide sideways slide on the pan has caused me problems in the past. So thanks again.

[@jackvandik]

Very good video on how to install oil pan, I learned a few things. I'm also a torque perfectionist that uses torque wrenches.

[@KrisMinnear]

2¼" Ruger SP101. .357 Mag? I found one of them 5-shooters in my 410FE Ford when I rebuilt it in 1994. 20 Years later, still no leaks. As you point out in your video, cleanliness is the key. I wiped with laquer thinner several times on all gasket surfaces of the engine. Used FelPro gaskets with Ultra Blue RTV on both sides.

[@user-hx8pl9fl1e]

Great presentation, very informative, easy to follow along. Great job!!! Thanks

[@xcalibre222]

Geeze, so much rust. I would have used it for a parts car and look for a better body.Gotta give you 5 stars for sticking to your guns,LOL. GREAT VID. Good Luck

[@Photostudioww]

i use 90+ alcohol for cleaning mating surfaces, work great and it only a dollar at the dollar store.

[@ColemanBales]

Are you by any chance the guy from regular car review? You sound like him haha.

[@Ammochannel]

***** Nope, I am the guy from The Ammo Channel. :)

[@7eis]

Really comprehensive and well explained. I needed someone to inspire a bit of confidense in me before i went and did this myself, so thank you for that. A quick FYI, the inline four I am doing (80's toyota) has nuts instead of two of the bolts, to help line it up. The two factory threaded rods help line up the pan - should be handy for a one-man upside-down jackstand repair like mine. Good luck to you

[@billcowhig5739]

Yes, same as my 2000 Tacoma, 16 bolts and 2 studs needing nuts. I have it off at the moment because the engine got terribly sludged. Spent a lot of time in the valve cover area, including replacing the valve stem oil seals. Decided to remove the oil pan and do the same below, and boy was that a good decision. The oil pickup screen was fully clogged! Cleaned the sludge from the pan and am ready to do the engine hand cleaning. Had been using diesel as a solvent, but thanks to this video I think I will try mineral spirits as well. Is there a solvent that can cut the RTV, rather than a wire wheel?

[@BplusJequalsFire]

You got it pretty good I'm cleaning rust out of my eyes after scraping the Gasket off the block hahaha

[@darryllwilliamssr123]

Thank you for sticking with specs because they have the greater margin for safety. Good Job

[@graham061]

Great tips and tricks. Always helps to work in logical and prepared method. Thanks.

[@510CurtDawg]

This is a really good oil pan installation video!! Esp with all thoz lil tips... Thoz two studs to line everything up is genius!

[@DaBIGTOE33]

Great video very satisfied with he end result

[@daniellong2709]

Thanks for taking time out your day to show this. I feel way more confident that i can do this the right way.. thanks agin and great job

[@anonymike8280]

Just what everyone has at home. A sand blaster. Everyone has a table they can put their engine upside down. Right? Most likley, you'll be upside down, underneath the engine. Myself, I don't like silione, but it will fill in imperfections. Aftermarket gaskets often are very thin. Cork-schmork.

[@jgarsemrod]

Great Video. Thanks, I was wondering if you have to wait couple hours after the hand tight to apply the torque to the bolts? Some people says that the RTV must "semi-cure" before the final torque.

[@edwardegnor8812]

Jairo García Seminario ik you posted along time ago but yes the semi cure is what you need to do before you torque

[@hsc3247]

Great, I really enjoy how thoroughly you went over possible issues and you were funny as well!

[@nsk8ter524]

damn. Almost left my gat in my crank case. Thanks for lookin out!

[@danpowell405]

great video, thanks

[@fuckmaster2010]

Great Video, I`m Going to be working on my saturn to replace a subframe.

[@JoeL-md1oh]

Thank you for taking the time to make a very professional video and sharing all the tips and tricks that you learned. Without guys like you we'd have oil everywhere!

[@masnax0r574]

I left my 357 mag in the pan during installation. Is it OK to leave it there?

[@craigorlikowski2507]

No as it is loose and will cause a rattling noise.

[@TheTexasCoder]

Good stuff, and great tips. Thank you for posting this! LOL, those pesky pistols are always getting in the way!

[@DAT240Z72]

Not a fan of RTV Suggestion: don’t use thread locker on bolts where RTV is used. It is recommended to re-torque the bolts after the RTV is fully cured; 24-48hrs. If you use thread locker, re-torquing breaks the thread locker bond. You’re better off using a nickel based anti-seize.

[@elirivera68]

Lol hey dad 😂😂😂 11:28

[@frankmaggio4328]

I liked the video. I am currently rebuilding my first motor. 3800 Series ll motor from a 1997 RS Camaro. I installed the crank and pistons and I was about to install the oil pan. I cleaned up the pan and noticed how badly warped and dented the pan was. Going to have to buy a new one. May go with OEM since I have not had much success with China made products on my Bimmer!

[@pcofranc]

Camaros are low and the oil pan can get hit - especially when the shocks / struts get worn.

[@ferenkmendez2083]

Great thank for the tips.!!!

[@BlackTulipX]

1. Too much sealant applied. Take a look at the amount that got squeezed out after tightening the bolts. That much also went inside the engine and will brake off and clog oil ducts. 2. After hand tightening the bolts you should let the sealant harden first for at least an hour before torquing it down.

[@pcofranc]

If the oil pan is clean inside extra sealant will freeze in place and not travel. When I removed my oil pan the factory used just as much and it didn't break off in 18 year and 160K that I have owned the vehicle. You could use less but the danger is in coming up short or thin - then that section doesn't get enough pressure from the bolts and it will leak within a year.

[@westtexastll1978]

BEFORE reassembly... @ 8:25: remove ANYTHING that doesn't belong: 🔫! *💪🏻🇺🇸!MURICA!💪🏻🇺🇸!*

[@AB-C1]

Yeah even my brand new BMW diesel engine leaked sump gasket from the factory! So they had to reinstall it at the first 6 week free inspection back in 2007, been ok since. 🤞🙏😅🤣😂😎🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@michaeldunagan8268]

@15:55 As it pertains to using a torque wrench: In the two years I tried to make a living as a mechanic, not one of them that I worked along with including ones that were in their 40s and 50s, ever used a torque wrench. I'm a big torque wrench advocate for the reasons you specified. I even bought torque sticks so I could use one mounting tires from an impact gun. It is laziness and negligent not to use torque wrenches. The one exception might be small diameter bolts connecting something plastic. Usually just to hold a wire or small vacuum hose or battery hold down clamp; I usually go to when it's snug and then turn it maybe another 10 to 15 degrees.

[@wk2w168]

Nice, informative video.

[@melvind42]

I'm a fan, well presented! THANK YOU!

[@dandillaha4828]

Very helpful, thank you much!

[@44hawk28]

The Ultra black or Ultra gray we'll both work just fine. But I'm telling you right now you're putting the sealant in the wrong part. They should go on either side of the line of bolt holes. Where the oil pan actually is supposed to make contact or is close to contact with the block as is possible. You're using way more than is necessary to seal that application. You will need any the blue Loctite, you're going to have so much sealant on those threads that they are not going to back out. And if I remember right the old spec on the seal is 45 inch-pounds. That's about 4 ft lb. You had a lot more than a 4 mm bead on that.

[@V-CarChannel]

I did just what you did to my oil pan but in the car, waited 24 hour and about to add the oil in a few min. I was told the correct way was to hand tight weight 1 hour the turq down. Im about to find out see if they both work or if hand tight and turq right after give me leaks. Praying I dont have to repeat this again. GOOD LUCK to my self!