How To Install Camshaft & Rocker Arms-CB350 CL350 Honda Twin Top End Rebuild: Part 155

[@winstonpoplin]

Did you put the cam shim washers on either end?

[@KeepOnWrenching]

There were no shins on this engine when taken down. Apparently it caries. In another video I measured the axial play of the fam and confirmed no shins were needed. Your might so be sure to measure. Shins are added vis the tach and points housing. If a shim is determined to be needed you remove the housing and place the shin then reassemble. I hope this helps. I believe I cover it in an upcoming video.

[@KeepOnWrenching]

This is something I did a lot of looking into because as you said, it’s important. I checked multiple manuals and landed on “if side clearance is greater than 1.0 mm remove one of the side housings and install thrust washers until the clearance is within standard specifications of .2 - .6 mm. Thrust washers are available from Honda in .1 and .2 mm sizes.” To me, that indicates that the thrust washers are only required with excessive side clearance. I actually purchased a couple from eBay just in case I didn’t fall within those specs. They were not cheap either. I think each one ended up being $15 with shipping. I got that info from the Honda 350/360 Twins Repair & Tune Up Guide by Chilton 1975. Additionally, in the Honda Motorcycle Shop Manual (the old green binder) it says the same thing. “If the side clearance is over 1 mm install shims which are available...” The shop manual references shim in place of the term “thrust washer” as with the other resource. To me, they are describing the same thing and the images corroborate that. Furthermore, when I reference the CMSNL parts guides the part in question is referred to as a “spacer cam” and both sizes are referenced. The .1 and .2 mm mentioned early. According to the manual those are only needed if your side clearance is excessive. I measured my side clearance in a future video and it fell within the the specifications so I did not install. Interestingly, when I look at the CB360, a trust washer is referenced on CSMNL in two sizes. Just a completely different term but in the manuals they are only to be added if there is excessive side clearance. I think this is a really important aspect to these engines. I’m glad you brought it up. I spent time this morning referring back to everything to be sure. It’s really a pain in the butt if those sims, thrust washers, or spacers (whatever we wanna call them) need to be added because you essentially need to put the cam boxes on, torque to spec then measure. If the side clearance is too much you need to remove the right side (tach side) box and install appropriate width shim there. I saw multiple areas also referencing only installing these shims/thrust washers/spacers on the right side. The manuals are pretty clear. IF is the term used. Also, when I took that engine apart it didn’t have them. This being my first top end rebuild I didn’t notice they were missing until I approached reassembly. I’m looking forward to tearing into another engine soon to see if they are there. I’ve read that it varies as to whether or not they are present or not. This was a fun exercise to work through over coffee this morning. I hope I made that clear in both videos. Thanks, Winston! I really appreciate the thoughtful input. I’ve got about 200 miles on the bike since rebuild. I’ll definitely be checking for any signs of wear at my next oil change. Fingers crossed!

[@kdharris1265]

Cold shrinks, heat expands, so you would've wanted the camshaft cold and the other piece hot, not vice-versa.

[@davidrennicks2484]

Well done! very good video and the fact you were referring to the manual as you went along give it creditability .

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Thanks, man. Manuals are a must. Lots of nuances. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I appreciate the feedback.

[@johnnycrab9458]

Did this when I was a teen in 1972, Norris cam, racing clutch, had two rear sprockets depending on riding function(distance/top end vs. 1/4 mile). Fun times.

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Didn’t even know that was a thing.

[@bake162]

Thanks Brian,this is going to help me reassemble my CL 450 that’s been apart for years

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Good luck! I’m glad you found the videos.

[@HepcatHarley]

I was saying "Gasket, gasket!" haha Good job Brian, you sound very pleased. Not sure I understood freezing the side housings, surely that would make the fit tighter to install on the cam? I dunno :)

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Thanks, man. That was actually quite an adventure. Lol. I saw so many videos of people smashing those side covers with hammers and then reading how they should go on with hand pressure. My thinking was to freeze it to gain a little advantage getting those on, especially the right side. It didn’t make a hill of beans difference. It all comes down to lobe position. I froze a bunch of bearings earlier and that worked like a charm. No harm, no foul, right? :)

[@davidaldrich3488]

well done Brian

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Thanks, David!

[@thomasldeanjr3337]

awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@kaidemarco7]

thank you so much!!

[@KeepOnWrenching]

You’re welcome!!

[@garyhawthorn2460]

Great video / of course I am now about to buy the recommended Chilton 350/360 manual, since the factory manual was very deficient in the explanation, and caused a problem for me. thank you

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Really solid manual. Thanks, Gary.

[@garyhawthorn2460]

@@KeepOnWrenching Because I have several MCs from several manufacturers, I bought the 1974 Chilton "Motorcycle Repair Manual", but it did not contain the important (and necessary) instructions re the camshaft installation. good manual otherwise.

[@lesscott3809]

Really enjoyed this top end rebuild like you I’m just a novice but going to have a go myself bought a Honda 250 and been trying to time it and it just keeps firing on one cylinder. I’ve checked all the electrics i’m getting a very good spark from the plugs at the moment I’m at a loss the plugs fired up, swapping them round even but no joy The timing is good. It fires up on one cylinder with no problems, it just seems to me I’ve been conned i’ll watch your video again and see what I can do maybe you can come up with some ideas I’m willing to learn. Thanks

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Have you tried a compression test?

[@bluezcluez206]

Super helpful!!

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Great to hear.

[@hwystar5668]

Hey Brian, at the 1:50 mark you say the LT mark is aligned but I see the LF mark aligned? Am I seeing this correctly? THX GREAT VIDEOS!!!

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Follow the manual shots whenever possible. The camera angles can definitely be misleading sometimes on some of these videos. I may have even filmed it incorrectly and fixed it later. Maybe messed up an edit. I try to include shots of pages from manuals for reference. I certainly hope I’m not misleading anyone. At the end of the day the motor ran great so I must not have messed it up. Lol. Thanks for chiming in.

[@davidaldrich3488]

additionally Brian....These engine weak point is the top end.....you can not have enough lubricate on any of these moving parts.....You may even want to leave the spark plugs out of the engine on initial start and run the engine a short period to ensure that the engine oil gets to this top end before actually running the engine...The cover that you had trouble getting the gasket off acts as a shield to ensure the engine oil lubricates all moving parts on this top end........

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Thanks, David. I’ll definitely be looking for evidence that oil is getting to the top end once (and if) I get this thing running. I put a lot of assembly oil in that area over the last day. Not sure I follow leaving the plugs out on initial start. Please elaborate if you get a chance. I think you’re saying to manually turn the engine over to move oil before actually firing it up. Thanks so much!

[@olliperala1600]

Hello! Thanks for your videos, they have been really helpful :-) In the beginning ,when I rotate the stator in to the LT mark and align the camshaft pin up. Is it necessary that the left cylinder is in compression stroke?

[@KeepOnWrenching]

I honestly don’t recall off the top of my head. The position and stroke of the pistons is very important. Do you have a manual?

[@GlockPointer]

Hi, the manual I used for this states that the cam sprocket bolts are torque-to-yield. I sheared two sets of used ones before I caught that. How has it held up for you? Also does anyone have any idea why one of those is shouldered and one not and why they go in a specific hole? I am finally about to tackle the cam sprocket again and the bolts are not available from Honda anymore. Could I use any 6x14 bolts that otherwise fit the bill or do I really need one shouldered and one not?

[@KeepOnWrenching]

You do need a shouldered bolt. In my manual it was specified. I don’t recall off the top of my head but I think I referenced it in a video. It’s a hardened bolt. I’d hit up eBay for a donor set.

[@glenndavidson2943]

Brian, quick question: I noticed on mine (71 CB350) that the rocker pin on the left cyl exhaust side is pointed in, not out. The Honda manual says just rotate it to point out. Engine is together and in the frame. Can I just loosen the locknut and rotate the pin? I would think the rocker has to be free of the valve, so would that be at tdc? Thanks! Great, great work you're doing!

[@KeepOnWrenching]

You should be able to just loosen and adjust it. It’s not a matter of just pointing it in the right direction tho. You need to use your feeler gauges to adjust it precisely.

[@glenndavidson2943]

@@KeepOnWrenching Great, thanks. Yes, I'll be tackling that Saturday morning, weather permitting!

[@CarlPokryfke]

What manual is the one you liked? I didn’t hear you say what it was. I’m also looking for a CB350 manual. I need better details for building the motor

[@KeepOnWrenching]

The tune up guide. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kGLSZn-hgqt8qLc

[@sidforbrains6552]

is the 350 an interference engine??...nice detail, thanks

[@KeepOnWrenching]

I have idea. Lol

[@ericw7754]

2:49, the screw hole in the sprocket it up and to the rear of the engine. At 3:42 its up and to the front. What gives? What was the edit was made? EDIT: I see it, at 4:14 you had already flipped the cam face over face.

[@KeepOnWrenching]

Glad you were able to catch the details you needed.