How To Install Cylinder Head, Cams & Timing Chain (Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI) Long Block Rebuild Ep. 2

Hyundai / Kia 2.4 GDI cylinder head, camshafts, timing chain and chain tensioner installation demonstration. In the last video episode (Ep. 1) • How To Install Oil Pum... , I showed how to assemble the ladder frame, oil pump, oil pump chain, chain guides and chain tensioner on the rebuilt short block. For parts, I purchased and installed a new head gasket and timing chain. An old timing chain may appear to be okay, but if the chain tensioner shaft appears overextended, the chain is stretched and should be replaced. The head bolts are called TTY (torque to yield) or stretch bolts. Some rebuilders prefer to replacement these bolts when installing a cylinder head. I would perhaps consider replacing them with a warped overheated cylinder head that may have overstressed the bolts.
To view all 4 videos on rebuilding the short block, here's the link: • Short Block Engine Reb...
To view how to clean up the 2.4 oil pump, here's the link: • Hyundai / Kia 2.4L GDI...
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/HardlyMoving?locale...
Parts & Tools:
DNJ HG168 MLS (Multi-Layered Steel) Head Gasket for 2006-2016 / Hyundai, Kia / 2.4L / L4 / 16V / DOHC/Electric/Gas, Gas / [Theta 2, Theta II SULEV, Theta II]
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DNJ HGS181 MLS Cylinder Head Gasket Set for 2009-2013 / Hyundai, Kia/Forte, Forte Koup, Forte5, Optima, Rondo, Sonata / 2.4L / DOHC / L4 / 16V / 2359cc / VIN 3, VIN 8, VIN 9, VIN C
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DNJ TK177 Timing Chain Kit For 11-16 Hyundai Optima Tucson 2.0L 2.4L L4 DOHC 16V
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SATA - ST96535 1/2-Inch Drive Electric Torque Wrench with Angle and Dual Material, 25-250 ft lbs (34-340 Nm) - ST96536
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Bates- Single Edge Razor Blade, 50 pc, Scraper Blades, Flat Razor Blade, One Edge, Single Sided Razor Blade
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CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz, 3 Pack
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Permatex 82195 Ultra Grey Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 13 oz.
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#hyundai

[@kamalabbady6778]

One the best mechanic out there, very specific and good camera angle, love your videos.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@robertdiehl9003]

This man really knows his stuff....

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks!

[@robertdiehl9003]

Glad to see you rebuild. Kia 2.4 engines are no where to be found at dealerships. (2023)

[@hardlymovingpro]

And that's why I rebuild them since the Sonata's are so cheap with a blow engine.

[@robertdiehl9003]

Excellent video & great job. Luv the motor rebuild series...

[@hardlymovingpro]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@HemiLyfestyle]

Hey You are the reason im going to buy a blown 2.4 and rebuild it, My car runs great but I've always wanted to learn to rebuild a engine, I can swap everything on a car but I've never rebuilt a engine

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good luck and let us know your progress! Don't hesitate to post any questions.

[@josephwiggins3115]

Excellent work, I also rebuild these 2.4l Sonata and Optima engines myself. Yet, I've identified that you do not use the color coded rod nor main bearings in your build as the service manual calls for. I have been trying to reduce my cost with OEM rod bearings...Their killing me in cost. Is there an alternative to the color coded bearings for the 2.4l on ebay? Thank you Sir.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Thanks! I don't buy anything from dealers if I can help it. Rod bearings are a low tech part and there's plenty of high quality bearing suppliers that provide replacement parts as good or better than OEM. The brands that come to mind are Hastings, King, Engine Tech and ITM. My engine machine shop uses them all the time. Go to rockauto.com and if out of stock, get the part number and trying obtaining from Amazon or any other on line supplier. Good luck!

[@raton5936]

Is it possible to use the oil pump from a Kia forte 2.0 or Tucson? I saw someone rebuild an engine with the non balance shaft oil pump but I’m not sure if it’s misinformation.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes you can. The 2.0 pump uses a stand alone oil pump; that is there's no integrated balance shafts. Will this increase vibration when used in a 2.4? Don't know but don't think it would under 2000 rpms. Engines of 2.0 and below don't need balance shafts. I remember owners of the Toyota Camry 97' - 01' 5SFE 2.2 engine would remove the balance shaft claiming it doesn't doo much good except rob horsepower. You can try getting the pump, chain, chain guides, tensioner and crank sprocket out of a salvaged Kia Forte or Santa Fe 2.0. The 2.4 pump components won't work. Here's a link on what the pump looks like: amzn.to/3uDkUNj I think this is the chain crank sprocket: amzn.to/4171GMb Along with the chain, guide and tensioner for the Kia Forte / Hyundai Santa Fe (Sonata) 2.0: www.ebay.com/itm/125942594922

[@Rt66AUT0]

Is this going to be similar to a 2.0 from a 2019 hyundai Tucson SE? Mine spun a rod bearing on number 3 and damaged the the crankshaft and rod and connecting cap. Im not a mechanic and no mechanic shop by me would rebuild my engine so now im stuck doing it on weekends. I have the engine out and just started on disassembling it

[@hardlymovingpro]

Yes. The 2.0 is virtually identical to the 2.4. In 2015 they slightly changed the engine's timing chain cover and some other minor external differences. I highly recommend you bring the engine block, crankshaft and cylinder head to a machine shop. They will thoroughly clean and clear out the oil channels of metal debris caused by the rod's bearings disintegrating and contaminating the oil which the oil filter can't pick up. Have them checkout the crankshaft to determine if the crank is bent and if they can turn down the journal surfaces. If they turn down the journals, you'll need to get oversized crank and rod journal bearings. .020" on the mains and .030 on the rods is what they usually take out. They'll also tell you if your bore can be simply honed or may need to be bored out. If boring is necessary, they'll usually increase by .020" or .5mm: which means you need to get oversized pistons. Also do not reuse the pistons and rods. Get new ones. If you have any other questions, send me an e-mail @ [e-mail]. Good luck!

[@Rt66AUT0]

@hardlymovingpro thanks, i already went ahead and bought a new crankshaft, rods and bearings. Just trying to find the pistons, but ill definitely take it to a machine shop. It just spun one rod bearing and when i put a new one in and ran fine until i gave it gas then the new one spun which was probably from the connecting rod and journal having chips of metal takin out. Do you think everything else would be fine? Or should i just go on the safe side and replace all the pistons? I just dont understand these new car engines, do oil changes every 3k to 4k miles and they still break lol meanwhile i have a 2007 honda accord with 240k miles and never had any engine problems or trans problems haha Edit (Can i reuse the other 3 connecting rods and pistons that have no damage ?)

[@hardlymovingpro]

Play it safe and buy new pistons. I believe the factory rings are too weak or get weak over time / miles. This results in oil consumption, the piston(s) rocking in the bore that scuff the piston skirts (teflon coating wearing out), cylinder bore flat spots and vertical wear groves. A spun bearing will leave fused bearing metal residue on the rod journal surfaces. No way to remove it with the crank in the engine. It must be machined off where most machine shops will remove .020" off the crank rod journals.

[@WeGo2UMechanics]

Did you have to remove valves before sending to machine shop? I have no experience with valves adjustment....so my other question is, how do I clean the valves without removing them? Of course, since it is direct injection, the valves are gunked with carbon. Any advice?

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good questions. No need to remove before bringing it to the shop. They will check for any air leakage between the valve seat and valves. If any problems, they'll either reseat (via grounding) or install new valves. Important thing is to clean out all the carbon buildup in the intake ports or let the shop do that as well.

[@WeGo2UMechanics]

Where should I buy parts? (Crankshaft, bearings, rods and pistons) I just want to make sure I don't get cheap

[@robruiz1424]

I’m currently rebuilding my engine says it had a knock .. the rods have a little play but idk if it’s enough to register a knock and how do u figure out where the valve buckets go back on ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

In these engines a knock is usually caused by worn or spun one or more rod bearings. With respect to the valve buckets, here's someone that made a post: @JxztarBeats with the cams out, find 2 of the same thickness tappets, say .130in. Install tappets on just one cylinder at a time. I start with the #1 intake valves. Measure the valve clearance and wright it on the head on the v/c gasket surface. Just go down the line and keep them in order. Subtract .0079 from valves clearance, ( v/c - .0079 ) + .130in. = ? Say your valve clearance is .030in. so now you do the math. subtract .0118in. from v/c on exhaust. (.030in.-.0079) + .130in.= .1521in.. This is the thickness of the replacement tappet you need. This should allow you to put the tappets you have in the correct spot. This number already has your clearance figured in. Find one that's that are close. never tighter, and number the tappets in order. I number them from the front of the head back, and the exhaust I letter them from a to h on the exhaust. Its a pain but this will get you good.

[@JxztarBeats]

Hello sir, I am putting together one of these engines and I had all the lifters in order but they were disorganized. I know that each one has a different number on the bottom. What could I do to put them in order? ​

[@hardlymovingpro]

Good question. I believe that caps are all the same size but are numbered different based on a production run cycle or batch. You can install all the caps and the cams before mounting on the block and check for valve lash or gap using a feeler gauge. The valve clearance limits are: Intake 0.10 - 0.30mm Exhaust 0.20 - 0.40mm

[@JxztarBeats]

@@hardlymovingpro great thank you for the info sir

[@mikefoley7561]

@@JxztarBeats with the cams out, find 2 of the same thickness tappets, say .130in. Install tappets on just one cylinder at a time. I start with the #1 intake valves. Measure the valve clearance and wright it on the head on the v/c gasket surface. Just go down the line and keep them in order. Subtract .0079 from valves clearance, ( v/c - .0079 ) + .130in. = ? Say your valve clearance is .030in. so now you do the math. subtract .0118in. from v/c on exhaust. (.030in.-.0079) + .130in.= .1521in.. This is the thickness of the replacement tappet you need. This should allow you to put the tappets you have in the correct spot. This number already has your clearance figured in. Find one that's that are close. never tighter, and number the tappets in order. I number them from the front of the head back, and the exhaust I letter them from a to h on the exhaust. Its a pain but this will get you good.

[@bennyhill007]

Sir, new or reuse head bolts? Thank You

[@hardlymovingpro]

To date,I have never used new head bolts; I reuse.

[@sivucit]

Hi did machine shop recommended what piston size and bearing size to go for it and you searched internet ?

[@hardlymovingpro]

The factory bore diameter is 87mm. Numerous vendors on ebay had new .5mm oversized (i.e. 87.5mm) pistons for sale. I brought the block to the machine shop. They said that removing .5mm or .020" should be more than enough to round out the bores, remove any vertical groves and scoring and maintain enough material in the steel bore sleeves. After he bored and plateau honed the bores, I bought the new oversized pistons and everything went back together perfect.

[@sivucit]

@@hardlymovingpro Thanks do you know if Toyota Camry or Pilot 2015 model do allow to over bore by .5mm .. i heard latest cars dont allow to overbore.. please advise

[@sivucit]

@@hardlymovingpro . Usuallly there is piston to walll clearance. that means probably he left 1mm and have bored .4mm and asked you to buy 87.5mm. you cant bore and put piston same size..

[@hardlymovingpro]

Don't know about the Pilot engine; however on the Camry 2AR-FE engine, I did watch a video of a guying rebuilt one where the factory repair manual stated it could over bored. Believe he removed .5mm or .75mm.

[@hardlymovingpro]

I'll rephrase by saying the oversized pistons were for a 87.5mm bore; not the piston diameter.

[@mikefoley7561]

why are you reusing the head bolts? I figured that you would reuse the head gasket by copper coating it with new bolts. Not the other way around. And the book says not to put lube on the head bolts.

[@hardlymovingpro]

Rebuilt over a dozen of these engines with no issues re-using the TTY stretch bolts. Also, if you watch the video again, no lubricant was applied to the bolt threads. I would never, ever reuse a head gasket on an all aluminum engine. These gaskets are embossed multi layered stainless steel with a special coated sealant to allow the cylinder head to float or stretch on the engine block during heat cycles.

[@mikefoley7561]

If you are responsible financially for the job, and are instructed by the manufacturer to replace the bolts, it would be a no-brainer. Know if the customer said reuse the bolts and it breaks he owns both pieces.Not your problem. On a bolt that is designed to stretch, they’re only gonna do it so many times before they snap. Sorry, but you can’t tell how many times It has stretched to its normal limit. They sure are cheap Insurance and hopefully they won’t have a failure sooner than later. You have to admit that these repairs are not cheap and if one of the reused bolt snaps you’re gonna eat that repair job. I don’t know about you but I can’t afford to eat a $1500-$1300 hickey. Just my way of thinking. I use voice recognition and my phone didn’t pick up me talking about lube on the head bolts. I don’t understand why you wouldn’t use some type of lube at least under the head washer. I’m sure there’s a reason but the factory doesn’t give you a reason why in the book.