How To Install Drip Edge On A Roof

[@chrismagnum2710]

Thanks for the lesson !!

[@stephansomerset6967]

That was probably one of the worst instalations I have seen!

[@TheDrcisco24]

@@stephansomerset6967 and a few things you

[@JayJay-ft9zu]

Good job Dylan 👍

[@garyorendorff775]

​.

[@frankcorrieri]

What if you started the rake drip edge so that half the length goes past the apex of the roof? That way you can make a cut right at that apex and fold the remaining drip edge down the other end of the roof. This would prevent having to marry up the two drip edges right at the apex

[@togamac]

Like your style Dylan, no BS, fluff, and irritating music, just good, well presented, instruction. Good job!

[@irazu2008]

I love this format -- concise and to the point. So many out there put out videos that are 50% filler information just so they can talk. Thanks for the information.

[@mongrelrogers9642]

I wanted to comment and repeat what most have already said-EXCELLENT video and explanation. You have done so much right that the majority of youtubers screw up-QUIET background music, CLEARLY HEARD easily understood instructions, WELL LIT and stable video, and best of all-NO BS "entertainment" factor. ALL meat and no bones. You should make a video on "how to make a KZbin instructional video" for other people to study. You may be "Your Average Roofer" but there is NOTHING average about this video! THANKS so much....liked and subscribed.

[@TurboDieselJeep]

Thank you for the straight forward video, no bs and no music. Just the information I needed to work on my project.

[@krissimacinniskelley4943]

Thank you for taking the time to show us about the importance of drip edge. I bought a house and discovered later no drip edge around roof perimeters and substandard work / lack of flashing on chimney and gables. Valleys were "basketweaved" with architectural shingles which I was told voids their warranty. I am able to go to view KZbin and see videos like this where I can see and learn. Roofs are expensive to replace/repair and I didn't expect to worry about a re roof for several years; now I do. Again, thank you and I appreciate your time and trouble. It is so easy for some of the others to make snarky comments but then again, it takes very little to type some degrading comments and a whole lot more to take the trouble, time and resources that you did. Not to mention it bespeaks the lack of character of the snarks.

[@MadRat70]

Don't be a snowflake. Embrace professional criticism.

[@davegreerjr.8192]

I'm a new material handler for ABC SUPPLYS INC the reason I'm watching this video is so that I will have a better understanding of the materials I handle everyday and also so I will have an understanding of what the Roofing contractors I've build a professional relationship with on a day to day basis

[@newagemuscle2010ss]

I have been watching all of your videos for the basics of roofing because I have a small project. I have to say you're very talented and your videos are clear and precise right to the point. Thank you for putting in the time to create these videos. This was such a big help.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

You’re welcome. Best of luck with the project!

[@PIANOSTYLE100]

Very good. I will playing these videos and taking notes. Will be studying these videos.

[@MrQor2]

Are you in Ontario, CANADA ?

[@stevenwooster4098]

​@@PIANOSTYLE100 following his instructions is the worst thing you could do

[@patnelson4289]

This was very helpful. Even if Im not a roofer I can check out a roofers prior work before hiring. Knowledge is power . You are an excellent teacher.

[@kathyabeauty]

Thanks for showing these details. Amazing how you hammer nails between your fingers without injury. : )

[@supporterofeverythingyouli6255]

Thanks for taking the time man. Appreciate it!

[@maika_loves_you]

You are so kind, your instructions are clear, and easy to understand. Thank you, Dylan!!

[@johnmapp7907]

Seeing it on the ground in the small model really helped me understand the concept

[@duncanportal3033]

Am building a 10x12 shed right now. Tomorrow I will put on the roof, corrugated metal panels. Watched this video so I could put a proper drip edge on it. Thanks for making this. I'll do it the way you suggested!

[@briankearsey1836]

Average Roofer is nice guy but the drip edge must be away from the facia board (most recommend 1/2" - 1") so the water does not get pulled back and drain along it.

[@aquietsojourner4683]

Ive found all your videos very precise and well articulated and helpful, but i usually do the rake a little different at the top of the gable. I usually start at the gable with a whole piece and cut the bottom flange vertically letting the metal fold on itself, this way i dont have a joint at the top. If one piece isnt big enough for the whole rake, both sides, and you do start by halving a drip edge at the top, wait until youve installed the next piece down to nail the ends so you can slide the next piece under it a little, for the water flow. Otherwise, I sometimes do start from the bottom corner, and i just run the piece at the top of the gable long, and do the same, snipping the bottom flange and folding it over the peak of the gable, but not nailing it down on the opposite side until ive installed the drip edge up that side and tucked it under the folded over hang i had left unsecured. Does that make sense? Im curious if there is a operational reason this isnt done?

[@BobutBrody]

Really good video - a straight run is fairly easy, but the devil is in the details and the corners and ridges Good to see a regular guy doing quality work

[@madtater5948]

and he speaks perfect English

[@kenneely8180]

excellent instructional video. gonna apply what I learned from it today on our garden shed roof. Thanks Dylan

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Great to hear!

[@chrisrichardson8988]

I love this “no nonsense” very good instructional video. Really well done.

[@papawd3991]

Great job, I have a 6 year old roof, the roofer took shortcuts, they installed rake edge but not drip edge. That’s not the ONLY shortcut they took either. Great video & instruction.

[@memphisroofingcompany]

Drip edge is an asset to the customer as well as an asset to the company by being up to code and giving the customers great value.

[@LANPOCALYPSE]

While I'm not a roofer, as a home owner I appreciate your explanation of this.

[@wrx248]

Agreed. Use a 3/8" gap over gutters to prevent weeping back to facia board. Noted on This Old House.

[@gearhead4526]

If the fascia is wrapped in aluminum, no gap is necessary because the gutter board is protected by metal. Let the shingles hang over the drip edge by 1 inch to ensure the water goes in the gutter and not behind it. Leaving a gap opens up the possibility of wasps and carpenter bees having access to the wood.

[@praful6890]

Nice video. Lighting was good and your instructions were clear.

[@hp7033]

Clear and concise. Everything I need to know and no blahblahblah. Thanks!

[@jdw0909]

Good stuff man! That actually makes a lot of sense going under the underlayment on the eaves!

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Metal sweats, gotta protect the bottom 2 inches. Ice can also back up from the gutters and get below the drip edge.

[@briankearsey1836]

It's very important to leave a decent gap between the drip edge and facia board to keep the water draining straight down (most recommend 1/2" to 1"). A 1 x 2 furring strip works well Also, be sure to extend the shingles 3/8" - 1/2" beyond the drip edge to prevent water from getting sucked back and up - This Old House has a great short video showing why and how.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/b6iwfqSpd6aLoq8

[@tristonfitzpatrick4198]

Yeah not true.

[@patricklaughrey8727]

I saw the same thing and it is indeed true

[@byeverywordofgod9138]

whats the point if you're installing facia metal and gutters?

[@mark1952able]

Much of today's house's seem not to have a furring strip, which I believe is the best way to do it.

[@CWillC1972]

Good, well-explained tutorial, thanks. Perhaps in a following one, you could discuss and demonstrate the use of simple 'L' (type C) drip edge, and how it should be bent to conform to the roof pitch, and what roof slope limitations there are. I've also seen architectural details of a wood furring strip nailed high and over the fascia board to 'kick out' the outside edge of the drip edge so that it will be beyond the front edge of the gutters (to greatly reduce potential for water incursion behind the gutter).

[@JesseePDX]

I wish I had a dad to teach me this stuff but thank god for good youtube video like this!

[@tylanway5450]

Hey my dad was dumber than a nail. oh and he still is. ha. good luck with everything vadimxp

[@davidmccright7768]

Very clear for all of us less than average roofers. Bless you.

[@moneypenny3050]

Wow! I have been trying to learn about ice & water shield, synthetic underlayent and drip edge. I watched several videos and still did not quite get it ... now I get it. You used that small mock roof which really placed everything down on my level and finally as you explained how cutting the back end of drip edge and tucking it around the corner seals the whole corner of the house much better than just butting it up together, it suddenly became clearer. I even gained more clarity about underlayment being installed UNDER EAVES and ABOVE RAKE edge. Hey, what can I say except thanks? Now I'm ready. LOL

[@MadRat70]

That little wrap on the corner is the bane of gutter installers. It serves no function and has to be removed to get the extra inch of gutter past each end of your drip edge and fascia runs.

[@benzcrazy]

Boy am i glad that I found you !!!!! you make it seen so simple thanks I am skilled but thanks to you I will be able to do the right sequence on my roof and my vent Again Thanks

[@TheDylan6908]

Exactly what I wanted to confirm, presented in a clear and concise manner. Thank you.

[@slednecker22]

1,181,695 views in 2 years! That should tell you're doing a great job on here ! Nice video man thanks for sharing all your info !

[@PMaione1]

Hey man , Videos are great and descriptive , followed your advice and my drip edge turned out great !! Thank You !!!

[@owenwiseman6112]

Thanks for making a video on this where you can actually see what you’re doing!

[@kevinchaulklin3929]

Good quality work. I am a roofer & that's close to how we do it. If you're overlapping & cutting angle on ridge, it's all good. Most homeowners who see that are very pleased

[@irishammer319]

Great explanation 😁👍

[@JungleJimAB9AB]

Good video. Very informative and well presented. I appreciate you taking the time and making the effort. Keep making this kind of useful work.

[@evelynvigil-montano7564]

I really appreciate you are taking your precious time to teach us all your Tricks and your knowledge about installing roof. I am looking for a great roofer, and the reason why I am watching your videos is just to be knowledgeable about this procedure, so I know what the roofers are talking about, when I discuss the price and their procedures how they would install it. Thanks again. Your videos are awesome! 🎉🎉🙏👍

[@alcolavista-22]

This is actually the latest design of drip edge and he’s doing what the manufacturers requirements.... right on d 💰 money👍 thanks for this video ✌️😍

[@MadRat70]

Its not a new design, its just d-metal repurposed and not in a good way. If you try to install gutter you need 1/4" of fall every ten feet. How long of run is that 1" leaf going to allow gutter to be adjusted? Not much. The average house is about 40-45 feet long these days, so from the middle you need 1/2" or better of fall center to end. That leaves you 1/2" at most for coverage. It also has little to no actual kick at the bottom for water to drip away from the fascia. Water can wick 4" vertically, so you want a 'kick out' at the bottom of drip edge to break the syphon.

[@vicweast]

Thank you for providing a great resource for the "average homeowner". I'm finishing up a DIY 8x16 foot shed and if the weather holds today, I'll shingle it confidently now.

[@BueBue701]

Good video. Although usually with steel drip, if you cut a notch out of the inner intersecting piece, you can get a tighter and more flush overlap. This way along 60-100 foot sections, you don't have a bump out or wavy drip along the fascia.

[@Liberty_Tree]

I like that you show each step, even the ones some people might think are common sense. For beginners such as myself, nothing is common sense. Good Job!

[@Crz_hrz]

Wish all roofs where 5 foot off the ground 😉

[@YourAverageRoofer]

John Wightman wouldn’t that be the dream?

[@raybin6873]

Well...if you are 4 ft tall or less....it'll work!😁👍

[@booshallmighty]

Someome should invent some kind of tower apparatus or platform that can be constructed on site to the level required then be able to be taken down and moved to another site.

[@carmineredd1198]

@@booshallmighty there already is one , his name is Fred Dibnah

[@booshallmighty]

@@carmineredd1198 Fred’s dead Redd, Fred’s dead.

[@Tritamer]

Thanks! I am making a small roof over my daughter's archery target stand. I've never used flashing before, so this was really helpful!

[@DoItWrightRo]

I appreciate the effort that you gentlemen put into these tutorials. I'm an adjuster and it helps so much!

[@rogeresquivel2091]

Thank you, I appreciate the lesson. Video will made, after viewing half dozen others, yours gave me the knowledge I was looking for. Made for the avg homeowner.

[@joshuajones6113]

Thank you! Clear, quick and to the point. Exactly what I needed :)

[@riomex55]

Right on man! Thanks a lot. You get right to the point! You helped me a lot….house and 2 car garage about to get done…4000 square feet!! Wish me luck!

[@fixingstufftv453]

It's better to leave a gap between the drip edge and fascia. With direct contact, the drip edge will run the water right down the fascia and rot it out. A gap is also ideal for gutter installation.

[@huejanus5505]

My fascia has aluminum on it, and the back of the gutters slipped up easily between the drip edge and the fascia.

[@kernalbert4939]

There's a fascia install that fits behind the drip edge before the gutters go on...

[@samzetroc2634]

I was gonna say the same, but saw your comment.

[@roccoliuzzi8394]

Leave a small 1/8" gap. I have repaired many fascias water damaged by too tight drip edge.

[@joelhuppe3725]

@Fred Bush III were in Canada with our climate we all do aluminum fascia the drip edge needs to be tight to hold your facia. If you leave a gap it will flop and youll have to screw it and it will oil can badly. The gap thing is for old houses with wood facia.

[@FaithfulG0d]

Great job on a very helpful video! My first time roofing job on my shed was a success.

[@MichaelBlast]

Great idea using a smaller mock up to demonstrate techniques for teaching. Have you any tips or videos on repairing Hardie Plank ? I had a shed made out of Hardie panels years ago and top right corner has some damage. Need to seal and protect, doesn't need to be perfect.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Michael Blast you’re looking for a video example of how to fix the decking?

[@MichaelBlast]

@@YourAverageRoofer no not decking, it's a cement board type of material that's called " Hardie " panel or Hardie Board... The shed was custom made... I was wondering how you'd approach such a repair ? I figure you may have come across a variety of materials. * I think it's like cement board. I'll look again at the sticker.

[@Stew-rl9qk]

@@MichaelBlast Have you considered using thin set and mesh to correct damage if it is a small enough area that you could finish it to blend well enough? Not speaking from experience but rather adding to the conversation if anyone has a reason this wouldnt be correct im interested.

[@pop4725]

Your roofing explanations are the best

[@seeya205]

Good video! The only thing I would do differently is to have the drip edge about half inch to a full inch from the fascia. If you don't, the water won't go into the gutter but down the front of the fascia and rot it out. The gutter needs to be installed behind the drip edge.

[@jkbowers56]

Good point. If there's no gap, water WILL dun down the fascia in moderate to heavy rain or during sustained light rain. Using a 3/8" gap is usually enough to prevent this... I'd be very waty of more than a 1/2" if living in a high wind region. 1" is far too much in very windy areas, allowing wind to tear off the drip edge if additional fastening is not done to keep it in place.

[@jkbowers56]

Additional fasteners can be used, but you run the risk of heat/cold expansions and contractions doing strange things to the drip edge that can affect the integrity of your roofing, as well as creating a degradation of the professional appearance of the roof's edge.

[@seeya205]

@@jkbowers56 I don't even measure, I just do a finger width. I have never had issues with wind.

[@jackroads2439]

TY all so much I had a new roof done by a contractor that put on the drip edgg and ridge edgg on first the drip edgg i see you also did that which is fine but they also did the ridge edgg first and then the underlayment was put on and sometimes leaving a space or not on top of the edgg at all so this just confirms they did it wrong. You might consider not butting the drip edgg up against the facial board this makes the rain fall away from the facial board better or into a gutter when the rain is not that hard some will still flow down on the boards and Rott them. Thanks again great video.

[@TurboMountTV]

Saw that too. Was thinking if you have flashing right behind the drip edge and into gutter the water will never see the fascia

[@oldskoolwayy]

He explained it so easy,,made it seems so easy..But How do I install a drip edge if I already have shingles on if i bend the shingles too far back they will break..

[@suziejones3236]

cause he explains what you think is correct how can you easy explain wrong way whats funny is other so called roofers correcting his fault or do i say faults

[@andrewtorres9081]

That’s why you install the drip first always

[@donhendricks2950]

Thank you so much for sharing your time and experience with us, DIY'ERS.

[@hemisuperzee1287]

At the top of the rake, you should silicone the where the two drip edges meet, other wise wind driven water WILL get under it and go all the way down the rake, possibly into the sheathing edge your trying to protect.

[@dennmillsch]

Good presentation. Clear explanations. Well done.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Glad you liked it!

[@UltimateMMAFan83]

I have a question. On the first Z flashing, you put it under the felt paper but on the gable end, you put the flashing on top of the felt paper. Wouldn’t you want that flashing underneath the felt paper for the gay boy and also?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

It should be on top on the gable. This way if any water get under it stays on top of the felt. On top of the fascia drip edge to allow any penetrating water to drain off without touching your plywood decking.

[@RobertGarcia-wb4hy]

Great video, man. I drive a desk at a large roofing company, but love our trade and always appreciate the opportunity to learn from experienced guys. Keep up the good work....!

[@kevinJmadsen]

For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

For low slope roofing you must install your base sheet, drip edge (with primer adhesive over all metals) then install your cap sheet.

[@kevinJmadsen]

@@YourAverageRoofer Thanks. It actually detached from the shingle roll. The drip edge metal had been painted by the Mfg. And the mastic still won't come off of it after 33 years. I bought Loctite polyurethane roof and flashing sealant this time.

[@MadRat70]

@@kevinJmadsen It its bitumen sheet then did you torch it back down? Otherwise 33 years was more than your money's worth and replacement is generally recommended. When you say mastic I assume that is caulk. That is incompatible with asphalt.

[@bigboyinthe5016]

You the man! Got a big double wide and have had hell with the gutters....leaking behind them etc....took them off and long behold....no drip edge in alot of places 🤦🙍 so fixing that then a new ridge cap...thanks bubba

[@raybrensike42]

Do put it on, up the rake also. Wish I would have done that 30 years ago. Now have some rot on the end of the roof boards, and perhaps into the end rafter also.

[@martytaylor8742]

Great video! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experiece. Your instructions were clear, concise and professional.

[@berettaMike1]

Great video mane, keep it up, you’re an awesome dude

[@suziejones3236]

Are you his relation, are you for real

[@donovan6861]

You’re a great teacher sir. Thank you.

[@northwoods2728]

As a seamless gutter installer - huge pet peeve - when the drip edge is bent at the eaves🤬 i also use gutter apron on the eaves & drip edge on rake. Midwest offset aviation snips - red and green👍

[@TheBearGrylz]

Yea I do seemless gutters and shingles everyday. I prefer it not bent around corner. That way when I go to install gutters it’s not a pain in arse.

[@Cwebber65513]

Gutter apron!!! Why did he use drip edge smh lol

[@allennewman632]

Question. Some roofers have said paper over drip edge, but direction on shingles says paper under drip edge. Which way is right

[@northwoods2728]

@@allennewman632 ice and water barrier over your gutter apron at the eaves👍

[@Faceworldd]

This guys a hack. Cut your corners flush no wrapping. And when you got drop around drop like he did when he over lapped it it makes it stick out. You cut a relief to stop that. And he used a tape to cut the easiest piece you out on a roof. I do whole roofs not tape

[@doughoad3610]

Thanks, I learn alot from your videos!

[@YourAverageRoofer]

My pleasure!

[@mikemays7512]

What's your opinion on having the drip edge over hang by a 1/2 inch? This Old House has a video describing that it is needed to keep rain water from contacting the fascia board.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Mike Mays it does work however it’s an extra preventative measure and isn’t actually necessary. Drip edge made by a good manufacturer is already bent out a half inch from the fascia board.

[@PENNA65000]

@@YourAverageRoofer True, but it can still wick up behind the drip edge if it's in contact with the facia board. That's why some manufacturers make a "double" drip edge (see Rite-Flow drip edge to see how it works.) I've never seen the usual drip edge, pressed up snug against the facia board that didn't sheet water down the facia board. Go out during your next rainstorm and watch. It needs to stand off from the facia board a bit or use the double drip edge. Otherwise wood facia boards have rot in their future.

[@flexibleatheist]

Straightforward, no more, no less. The best roofing instruction video out there.

[@louieperri5782]

Great job brother!!! Love the simplicity of up your vids I do all my roofs the same way you guys do yours ! Love to come out an work a day for you guys!!!

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Louie Perri that would be awesome to have some viewers come out for a day or two!

[@louieperri5782]

@@YourAverageRoofer let me know lol!! I have my WAH ticket and all my own equipment I am down brother!!!

[@marlowe3800]

You are amazing kid, great explanation,you ecplained it in a way that made my job easy! Thank you

[@spencerhall4452]

How about bending the top piece and cutting a relief below? This way no water can enter.

[@daleon96]

That's what I do...I would never install it with 2 pieces butting each other...your asking for a leak

[@marlinweekley51]

Spencer Hall absolutely. I ve seen a lot of guys do a lot of different things re drip edge and flashing. Lot of code confusion sometimes and /or common sense. So of the new stuff like ice/water barrier vs felt stick to the roof as you put it down leaving some confused - drip edge under? Roll the material down the fascia then drip edge? I just watch an experienced roofer do it the wrong way. At the rake do you put drip edge over it or under? Again he got wrong.

[@Josh-ww5kz]

Come on.. Do you really think that there's going to be enough water hitting that area to cause a problem? Fascia boards are meant to resist some rain. They are on the outside of the house right? All you have to do is when your piece hits the ridge, cut it slightly so it doesn't poke out the other side of the roof, then snip off the bottom lip of the drip edge, then when your drip edge comes from the other side, cut it flush with the fascia angle. There's a overlap underneath and the two peices should be snug to eachother. You can even have the bottom lip of the drip edge that's overlapping, clip onto the piece that's behind it.

[@spencerhall4452]

@@Josh-ww5kz yah I mean both ways will work no ones disputing that, but the relief cut won’t allow any water in at the peak.

[@tazionu]

Thank you very helpful. A question. I have built a storage unit with a slanted roof just on one side. I understand that I will install the drip edge on the lower front edge and sides. Do I install a piece at the top edge also?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

When you get to the top you can install a piece of drip edge to finish the roof. Or simply buy an L shaped wall flashing and use it upside down.

[@daniluchison]

Good job man! I appreciate your time and intention. 👍

[@guycmcd]

Thorough enough for this novice to follow. Thanks much...

[@oxconcreteremovalfirewoodm3863]

Hey please don't spread that information to put the drip edge tight to the fascia. You need to float it out at least 1 inch past the fascia. The gutter will only go under the drip edge at one end then you need to have slope. Thats why the drip edge needs to float out so it can still drip into the gutter when you add your slope. Having your drip edge tight to the fascia will cause water to drip in behind your gutters. I've owned my own gutter business for 11 years and I speak from experience. Customers would always call us after a new roof installation was done, saying that their eavestrough were leaking all over and the roofer said they needed a new gutter system. But really they installed the drip edge wrong! If you think I'm wrong add a gutter to a 20 foot run have your proper slope at the other end. Yes you tuck your one end under the drip edge. But by the time you slope your eavestrough to the other end it won't be under that drip edge. In that section do a water test. Grab a water hose and let it run off the roof and you will see the water drip in behind the eavestrough. Most roofers don't install gutters to understand the importance of floating it. And you cannot tuck the whole length of gutter under the drip edge or else it would be straight with no slope. You need to have slope! Roofers for years have been installing drip edge the way your explaining it and its wrong. Thats why you believe that's how you actually install it because you were taught that way.

[@LO-cd7ze]

Jason Lajaro is right. There is a TOH video demonstrating this. Not only the (important) gutter issue, but even if no gutters are present, having the drip edge tight against wood fascia will allow water to crawl back up between the drip edge and fascia due to capillary action (especially in wind blown rain, which most rain here in New England is). I just ripped out a bunch of rotted wood fascia due to the drip edge tight against it- it's best to leave a gap, although I'm not sure of the ideal gap - Tommy of TOH says "a finger"- I was hoping for something with more precise units but I think about a 1/2". Some people use a furring strip to create that gap but I don't see the point as then the furring strip will rot (and look nasty from below for runs visible from below) and in turn will eventually cause the fascia to which it is nailed to also rot. I think a decent quality/gauge drip edge doesn't need a furring strip to support the required gap.

[@christopherr7195]

is 1'' too much.. I was told by a roofer to leave it 1/4'' off?

[@jeclose]

Good info, but does that advice also apply to the rake edge or just the eaves edge?

[@oxconcreteremovalfirewoodm3863]

@@jeclose Just the eaves edge.

[@stephengee8488]

@@christopherr7195 1/2 inch for the drip edge and shingles should extend a further 1/2 inch for a total of 1 inch.

[@mariesacul722]

I had a new roof put on 10 yrs ago. Water now in my walls. Gutter and box fell off. No drip edge no rake edge. And many other issues. I am going to try to install these along with rebuilding the birdbox?/s . Before the rain moves back in for good. However, when I went today to get supplies I was surprised by the amount of different kinds of drip edges. So I shyed away from that part for now. In your opinion.Which kind of drip/take edge would you think is the most universal? Or versatile. I know your busy. But, it's so important right now for me. I'm in the southern United states. If you see this and could suggest for an old house that would be a great. If not, I understand. T.y for your videos! Your such a natural teacher. Keep up the good work!👍

[@skiimeerman2695]

Deadly exactly what I need dude thanks

[@barrytaylor7270]

Good video my man , very basic and straight forward to the point, I’m sure like myself most of us are doing sheds and small projects, thanks for the heads up.👍

[@Absolutelycraziness]

Why would you cut your rake dripage at the top of the roof line instead of putting a bird's mouth in the bottom of it and folding it over so there's no gap for water to get in? That makes as much sense as wiping before you poop.

[@dcap09876]

Fu***** thank you. How is what your saying not standard by now. Looks better too. I make a perfect ^ then the drip edge seems are equal length the rest of the way down just tuck underneath so your seems are not catching water

[@jodyvaillant118]

Can you recommend a video that demonstrates what you are talking about ?

[@MrCareerplanning]

Thanks for the video. Good explanation of the work. I've seen some videos with people putting the drip edge under the underlayment all the way around the entire roof and some putting it on top of the underlayment on the sides. What are the differences and is the one right way? Thanks again.

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Glad it was helpful! Not a huge difference, however over the drip edge on the bottoms allow for any water that penetrates to drain without damaging plywood, and on top on the gables to keep water from getting under the paper.

[@truenorthmuskoka9077]

Any suggestions how to nail the drip edge after shingles installed. My shed needs a drip edge

[@YourAverageRoofer]

True North Muskoka using a flat pry bar, carefully remove nails along gables approximately 4 inches inside from the gable edge. Do this all the way up the gable. Insert drip edge by tucking it in below the shingles ensuring not to damage the shingles, and making sure it is fit securely to the roof decking. Once in place, replace the nails you removed along the gable edge and make sure you nail the drip edge during your re nailing process. Do no face nail shingles. Also make sure nails are covered by shingle course to prevent the nails from rusting and leaking.

[@truenorthmuskoka9077]

Your Average Roofer thx. Appreciate it

[@madtater5948]

thanks for sharing the video when I put my tar paper down I glue it down with lap cement around the edges of the roof I've seen too many windstorms get underneath the edge of the roof and blow the tar paper and the roofing to the next town I also glue down the asphalt shingles on the edgings to the tar paper

[@MadRat70]

Or install the d-style metal correctly (he's flipped end for end incorrectly imho, seal over your nails with a strip of ice and water shield, then run a j-channel up against the gravel stop of the d-metal. Tuck shingles into the j-channel. And seal the deal by fastening the bottom of your d-metal to the fascia (trim nails every 30-40") running up the gable ends to terminate any lip for wind to lift up. Too many people fail to understand how to face nail without oil canning the surface. Run d-metal as a cleat up the rake (to the soffit's plane but under your soffit) then clip fascia to that. The soffit tucked into a j-metal perimeter is a premium detail many home owners are easy to sell on if you keep the price within reason. Look how vinyl is very affordable for soffit today. Like most any aluminum products, much of your pieces (such as soffit) can be cut with a knife and not waste time flipping between snips. In the end you have to look at how to keep a profit and your labor. The bread and butter will always be commercial jobs but they dry up in the winter. During the summer my prices go up but in the winter we slow down everywhere and a mix of premium residential jobs help carry us back into the warmer weather. If the money doesn't roll in all year talent will find new homes.

[@jamesoloughlin1026]

Is that hole on comer for the bees to fly into? U would never cut it working with copper

[@Josh-ww5kz]

Bees also can fly into air vents and such. So whats your point?

[@ussweeneyd]

This is FANTASTIC info for us amateurs. I’m doing this on my home built shed right now. One question; should I go under or on top of the felt on the rake ?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Go over felt on the rake, under at the eaves. Best of luck!

[@rodwhite9737]

@@YourAverageRoofer why go over the felt on the rake?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

@@rodwhite9737 if wind driven rain is to get under on the rakes it keeps water above the underlayment. If it was under, water would also get under, ultimately rotting your roof deck along the edges.

[@1boatsailor]

Good Job, you helped me out today thanks

[@CWillC1972]

Thanks for the tutorial. Do you ever wrap around, or bend the drip edge at corners and roof peaks? I would think that would improve the water-proofing. Another could be installing a drip edge on an existing roof.

[@jimraelee]

great tips, thanks. need to do some roof facia and siding work here soon.

[@cagaleched3459]

Parker Schnabel doing roofs now?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

That’s my doppelgänger 😂

[@renehasp]

Hi, I am building a shed, and this video is super helpful, Thank you so much for educating me.

[@randomreviews595]

Hi, first thank you for the awesome video man. My question is about the bottom drip edge. Do you overlap the same way as the side? Or what's the proper way to over lap it?

[@YourAverageRoofer]

Pixel2 Xl as long it’s on the roof gable it’s preventing wind driven rain. As for overlap we generally say do the eaves (bottoms) first then overlap your gable (rack edge) I top of the eaves metal.

[@CybekCusal]

Yes you overlap your drip edge joints the same way he showed for the rake edge joints.

[@valvarez2004]

Thanks! Clear, Concise, Professional!!!!

[@tolbylowe7567]

Why didnt u just snip the top and bend ur drip up the rack so its one solid piece. Where the hell is bdr.

[@davidgagnon2849]

Not only that, it LOOKS like crap.

[@westonrundlett2146]

Awesome video, love how you care about the details, great craftsmanship.

[@richardjohnson7959]

You should rap all faical up the Gable two inches

[@boxsterman77]

You could even wrap it.

[@allenbrooks7318]

Fascia not what u said lol

[@brewster102]

Thank you for a straight to the point video---most on this subject do a lot of extra gabbing and wasting people's time

[@JmurfFTW]

Buy the Midwest blue handle long blade aviation snips . They arw the best!

[@mspnyc]

Thanks, was very helpful. How will you fix downspouts that gets overflow