How To Install PERFECT KITCHEN CABINETS (DIY GUIDE)

[@terryspreier4366]

Stud Pack, I'm a senior citizen and probably will no longer do all the spectacular projects that you do. I watch almost every video that you make. You and your son are really fun to watch, and you are truly a master craftsman. You make me feel young again, and yes I find myself buying quite a few new tools that you show while working on your projects. My 25' x 40' shop is home for over 50 years of buying nice tools. Many of the early hand tools came from garage sales, farm auctions, and thrift stores. I love buying a $20 tool for only pennies on the dollar. Hopefully someday one of my grandchildren will find a treasure in all of this. May you and your family be blessed with good health and all that you need.

[@StudPack]

Really appreciate that Terry thx a million 👊👍

[@chefsteven34]

@Terry Spreier - You sound like a saint of a man. I hope your grandchildren truly appreciate the treasure that is you, & your shop.

[@stansbruv3169]

We love you Terry. You sound like the best kind of neighbor/citizen/granddad.

[@gnoswtx]

Grandpa it's me willie

[@stevenhunter3301]

Beautiful

[@nailbanger2]

Love you guys! Just for the new DIYers watching this vid for the first time, there are a lot of different ways to install cabinets. There isn't any ONE correct way. But almost everyone ive worked with and seen on TV or KZbin take that important first step of finding the high point. Although they dont say it here, you also must ckeck about 22-24" out from the walls. A higher spot there can give you a rotten day!

[@davidsmith-be7rw]

Hey guys, love your videos but in referencing those screws always use a number 10 or heavier...on the upper cabinets!!! number eights have no sheer strength and that's what's holding up all of that weight so always at least a number 10. If not, a 12 will be your best friend and you won't ever have to worry about those cabinets coming off of the wall. Just some insight from a 63-year-old finish carpenter who was in the trades for over 40 plus years!!!

[@apostoloskokalis3431]

What you mean number 8 or 10 because we live in Europe 😂😂😂😂😭😭😭. What size it is? 8/25 of an inch?

[@rufusjohnson3800]

@@apostoloskokalis3431 Google is your friend. 😉 #10 screw has a thread diameter of 4.8 millimeters. #12 = 5.5 mm.

[@rufusjohnson3800]

@@sulero-zp3rd Now that's how to hang a cabinet. 😜😄

[@T_bone]

Thanks!

[@nihatkonak3935]

I can do it.

[@sweetpetuniafarm3102]

I enjoy your videos. You remind me of my Dad. I inherited many tools from him, my grandpa and many great uncles/cousins. We come from a long line of farmers and woodworkers and I am the only one that continues the tradition. I am quite proud of my handed-down tools. Most women search for perfect kitchens in their new home but I searched for the perfect garage/workshop. I was young when Dad died so I cannot remember all that he taught me and I turn to your videos for guidance. There are hundreds of other creators out there but only a handful that are enjoyable to watch and come back to and you guys are one of the best.

[@StudPack]

Really appreciate that petunia farm 👍

[@rusinjeff5959]

Been installing cabinets for 24 years your video will do fine for diy . I have many tips but one of the best one is that if the wall is crooked and your cabinet is level and you have a space between the top of the cabinet and the wall, before you put your screw in , put a shim in the gap so as you tighten the screw it doesn’t try to suck the back of the cabinet to close the gap and raise the front of your cabinet

[@booboo8577]

I've been building and installing custom cabinetry for 40 years and I wouldn't let this hack near one of my cabinets.

[@Grejegando]

Care to explain?

[@jaysondh8153]

​@booboo8577 why not? It makes sense to put a dim in the back to maintain perfect level as you torque your screw.

[@tiahfili4974]

Nice work

[@thehighflyin12]

This was the comment I was looking for, my walls are not perfectly square. In the video you can see he did this. Do I want to make sure the shim is with the stud and the screw with it so it holds the shim?

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Stud Pack, as a retired electrician and avid DIY'er I watch a lot of videos and yours are some of the best, most practical ones around. Thank you for all the work you do making our lives (re: work) easier, more efficient, and best of all, LOOKING GOOD!

[@joebinion1]

I haven't even began to watch the video,and I'm so happy to see another one loving the multiple videos in a week.GOD BLESS YOU GUYS AND YOUR FAMILY'S

[@guidovic3]

I'm a c ontractor & this guys videos are the best!! Ty & keep sharing!!

[@alwaysvacationing5341]

I drill the 1/8" hole thru both face frames but then redrill the first hole with a clearance hole equal to the diameter of the screw threads so the screw pulls the the face frames together. Luv your videos. You are a great educator.

[@larrythimm2518]

Paul, thanks for showing the trouble that you had putting screws in under that island cabinet. We have all been there and it is good to see that even professionals have troubles at time. Thanks for all of the great tips in this video.

[@stephenlukyn2138]

Watching that reminds me how much easier that is with Robertson screws.

[@DewaltFanboy]

The trick with the screw and the prybar = Mind Blown! You guys are awesome!!! The "Protip" i tell people when installing the cabinets is that i like to do the bottom ones first. The reason for it is that the Stove kind of dictates where the uppers will go IF you have a Range/Microwave that will have to be directly over the Stove. IF you do the uppers first and for some reason your Stove location shifts (error in schematic or whatever), youre gonna have a fun time redoing the top ones and it will be even more costly if you put things like Filler panels/crown or what ever.

[@BenMarvin]

Base cabs first gang

[@deaneng8540]

I do the top ones first but start in a corner or on the end wall which will dictate where bottoms will end up. I always and about a 1/4" to the openings on the DW and stove.

[@jonathanlove4333]

If you read the walls and floors first with a level this is not an issue. It’s so much easier to do uppers first.

[@roberthendricks1453]

@@jonathanlove4333 I’m watching videos because I’m getting ready to install my new cabinets. I was thinking it would be easier to start on the uppers first so that I’m not in my own way. I used to hang drywall years ago and that’s where we start, lids first. Now I have some confirmation and an idea of what to look out for. Thank you.

[@randykirby9195]

I've been a custom cabinet builder for over 30 years , I like the idea of the laser line. Modular cabinets are some of the hardest to set because of the way they are built . With hot melt glue and brad nails , or maybe thats just on the west coast. You guys rock

[@victorvek5227]

From what my cabinet manufacturer told me, those GRK cabinet screws are only to attach cabinets to the wall. It’s recommended that you use the trim head GRK screws (#8, 2 1/2) to attach cabinet-to-cabinet. The cabinet screws used need to be countersunk to avoid impacting the hinge / door, etc. Plus, it’s visible.

[@adamsteele5636]

I use countersunk trim screws to attach my faces together. It just looks better in my professional opinion.

[@marylandtocy]

100% correct Victor!

[@bighands69]

A screw is a screw and will hold. It is not some traditional cabinet room piece so a screw here and there is not an issue.

[@festeify]

Ive seen the recommendations for those also, but those trim heads dont do the job well. They pop right through and dont hold the cabinet together well at all

[@gustavcrossbow2805]

these are better, trim head are not strong

[@lmurbua5648]

I love that you show how difficult and frustrating even the easiest things can be!!! Thank you for being real about it!!!

[@arnoldoaguilar7449]

It's so satisfying to see a professional doing his work. Someone taking care of the details. Greetings from Mexico

[@NGinuity]

On the bottom of that island cabinet....If you've got a long travel like that and the screw isn't staying, put it on the bit, push a piece of blue tape over the screw end and fold the tape down the side of the bit. It will stay there and you can either yank it off once you get started or there will just be a small piece of tape stuck behind the screw head. Works well.

[@_BAD_MERC_]

Dude, I just $6889.22 on my full RTA White Shaker cabinets for a 10x17 kitchen. I assembled them with glue and a crown stapler because of your video tips. Now when I install them, the effort and labor will be minimized and particular attention and shortcuts can be exploited because of vids like this! Thanks a million!

[@hdot2024]

Thank you, I’m in the process redoing my kitchen and I’m 2 weeks out installing the cabinets this has really helped me how to . I will definitely hit replay when the time comes

[@ericgautreaux1752]

As a retired contractor/ craftsman,your videos bring back many memories. Especially the screw falling off of the bit in tight places. Keep up the great work.

[@koogle612]

Bought these face frame clamps. Great reasonably priced tool. I use trim head screws to screw face frames together from BOTH sides which I locate behind hinge mounts so they never show. When floor out of level beyond 1/4" (almost always) I use strips of 1/8" doorskins & 1/4" strips of ply when needed under my cabinets. I always snap out the entire cabinet layout on the wall AND the floor which locates everything for plumber & electrician. The layout I snap out includes thickness of carcass walls on wall & floor. This step may take an extra hr but is so worth it it show exact placement of any shim strips you later check with your lazer b4 placing ea cab & guides any register placement in your kick plate etc etc. A straight edge on the top of cab run & on front face (6 ft level) will give an even overhang on your countertop as well as show you exactly how much to shom between cabinets at the back to maintain that uniform plane on the front face of the whole run of cabs. Be sure you have handles chosen b4 determining overhang of countertop & measure that dishwasher as well. Fine home building did a detailed article on hangi g a fairly involved set of kitchen cabs that is worth googling. Always a great review/reference reading b4 your next project.

[@jeffmartinaz]

Wow! I'm a college professor with a PhD...and it took me a minute or so to figure out why the smaller number was the high spot! Thanks so much for this video. I've got the confidence now to set my base cabinets. I owe you guys one!

[@realworldguroo]

Ah man, wish you explained the answer too! Still scratching my head…

[@jacobcairnes521]

You're looking for the high spot. The highest point will be the measurement closest to the level line

[@jasongilbert5227]

Stud Pack slogan idea: "Let's get it done!" Idk if you realize how often you already say it, but I bet Paul has said at least once in every vid since the beginning. Perfect slogan for merch. 😉

[@whitediver45]

You're a great craftsman and video producer. Thank you for the tips, advice, and instructions.

[@billmitchell427]

Great video! Absolutely agree with you on using spacer boards for dishwasher, range spacing, etc. I also use the cabinet clamps. I can gang up to 4 cabinets together, on the floor, joint the back of the cabinets together with 1/2 spacer blocks and screws. Then install the gang of cabinets on the wall as one unit. Very fast. I’ve been installing cabinets for 20+ years. When I’m looking for the highest point in a kitchen I use a story pole marked at 32 1/2” and 54”. This gives me the height of both upper and lower cabinets. I then use my laser to set the base cabinet line against the marks on the story pole. I put the story pole against the wall and then approximately 20” from the wall, out unto the kitchen, to insure there isn’t a hump in the floor. I note the dimensions as a move down the wall to find the highest spot in the kitchen. The laser is adjusted to the story pole line as as go. When all walls have been checked, the laser will be set to the highest point in the floor and I work off this line. The cabinet manufacturers I deal with with void the cabinet warranty if the cabinet is cut

[@T_Jonesy]

Yes, this! So much easier and you can tell if the front of the cabinet is going to be on a high spot, not just the back. Plus, no math.

[@terencemerritt]

I gritted my teeth when he cut the bottom of the cabinet lol. I will always adjust/cut the floor or sand or grind it down instead of cutting a cabinet but hey, whatever it takes to get the job done huh!

[@Hillbilly-im8ce]

Very good video. No extra talking and good easy explanation. I was doing a refresher for a new job I start nanda this is great, thanks

[@InspirationAuthenticityandJoy]

I just wanted to share some gratitude… (Short version of story..) My Lady bought a house she shouldn’t have and I’m rebuilding from inside out while living in it and your videos are AMAZING!! I love the attention to detail and the visuals. Many people ASSUME that everyone knows what you know. I’m glad that you explain WHY AND HOW!! Thank you

[@treblemaker]

I like to leave my laser line turned on, with the laser set up either on an extendable pole, or on a metal corner somewhere. You can then draw a line on a shim or some spare piece of wood and check the corners of every cabinet to see if your pencil line is matching up with the laser line. You can move around with that piece of wood and check the height at any top surface of your cabinets. It speeds up the process and gives more consistent results than reading a standard level from cabinet to cabinet.

[@jessicacalder9099]

Truth

[@joebinion1]

You guys are the only channel that I give a thumbs up to before I even watch it

[@eladvanallen8282]

My wife and I just purchased a brick rancher built in the 50's and I can't wait to start remodeling! First project will be a brand new kitchen so I searched yt to refresh my memory and search for tips and tricks... thats how I found you. You guys are awesome and it really is nice to have someone explain the how and why of every step. Watching your videos reminds me of my younger days watching This Old House every single weekend.

[@rainydayartistries9259]

I'm getting ready to install my own cabinets. Perfect timing. You guys are awesome at explaining things and not adding too much glitter.

[@crforfreedom7407]

If you're chalking lines, remember that red chalk is more permanent than blue. Use blue chalk.

[@goldsmithnb183]

I watch you guys all the time, and believe it or not I’m installing my first set of cabinets tomorrow. Love the dishwasher spacer trick!

[@StudPack]

Let us know how it goes Nate!

[@pamwilliams3244]

Getting ready to install kitchen cabinets tomorrow for the first time- pray for us! :) so glad I found your channel- it’s been a great help getting ready. Looking forward to watching more videos!

[@michaelwatts9115]

I’ve been looking for a comprehensive tutorial for about an hour. You guys nailed it.

[@rebeccaoliver5306]

16:49 That moment when the master knows he is the master but is still humble. That's the whole reason I watch this channel.

[@GAZolloYT]

Totally agree

[@bonnieclaude]

I was looking how to use an Apple Pencil on a game that doesn’t allow it, and like the other guy…I’m old and do not often this kind of work anymore. But StudPack you guys make the awesomest videos ever, wish I was 40 years younger and ran into your videos when I didn’t know how to do any remodeling, you are by far one of the best explainers I have watched and make me want to go rework something. That vice is one of the best tools I have seen for making a job easy, I could have used that many a time in my day. Oh and I’m sure you know but just didn’t have one on you, a bit extender will hold the screw on your Phillips all the way to the wood, I think I was 61 the first time I realized it extended to hold the screw, then again I never had the extended version that slid out until that age. Who knew right.

[@rodneyhammon1793]

I have to tell you, about 3 weeks ago, I ran across a first video of yours, on how to make a heavy duty extension cord…it was great! thanks. For 3 weeks I’ve been binge watching your video’s, starting from your very first one…..I’m so impressed in how humble you are, when you are very talented, so talented you probably could have your own show on TV. But I know you don’t want that. I’ve learned so much from you and your son, and I thank you for it. A few months from now we’ll be moving into our house and I can use that new lazer I bought to hang my pictures on the walls…..just like you showed!…take care, my friend……

[@StudPack]

Thx a million Rodney 👍👊

[@chucknostaw2819]

Love you guys. I watch your videos a lot. I'm redoing my kitchen. I refer back your videos all the time. Thank you so much. This is not what I do. But I m absolutely killing it thanks to you guys. That cabinet tool to align the cabinet is a great Idea. I did not use it. I used clamps but had I known about it I would have surely used it. Fast forward to the end. I installed my cabinet based on witching your videos. I had the counter people come out. I'm saying to myself if they say something isn't right or level I'm blaming Stud Pack. Lololol. I was dead on. No issues at all. Thanks again. You guys are awesome.

[@lindadavis4204]

Thank you thank you Thank you I have been waiting for 8 months for my handyman to install my base cabinets which I have had for a YEAR.I was told I would get a call 3 days ago. I have installed my upper cabinets but wasn’t comfortable with the base cabinets. After watching your video I WILL NOW BE INSALLiNG THEM MYSELF .. again THANK YOU

[@kevinmhadley]

I have to say, you have some really good tips and tricks in these videos. I have an old Victorian that needs lots of work and I’ll need all you can show me.

[@jaynpeeps]

I wish I could time travel haha. I just did my cabinets last month. These steps would have saved me a lot of time and frustration. Another great video guys!

[@RandyXB9R]

I got roped into a remodel of a 110 year old home that was chopped up to make 3 apartments. Old plaster and lath walls, crumbling under wallpaper with 10 coats of paint on it, not a straight line in the house, rotting floors, bad plumbing, redone electric though. Watching this will help when I start installing cabinets today. The walls are rolling, resembling the Grand Canyon and the owner wants it done fast and cheap. Did I mention finding wall studs about 23" on center? Note I said about... I'll do my best but I have a feeling that it will not look as gorgeous as your install. New construction is so much easier, even if the framing isn't great... Thanks for all the tips and info! You two are awesome!

[@maxdurbin3553]

I can’t believe you don’t have a million subscribers yet. These are the best videos ever. I may never put in cabinets but I’m saving the video just to watch it again. You guys rock!!

[@gordonshute8816]

2 new tricks from one video! 1-Love the screw and pry bar trick! I always wind up trying to lift and hold and screw at the same time. That's a giant pain in the whowho. I'll do it this way from now on! 2- The spacer trick is genius! I've installed probably 50 kitchens and I never thought of that. Measuring tapes work but that just makes it EASY! Great tip! Double whammy! Thanks

[@GTAHomeGuy]

I REALLY love that you kept all the screw fails in there. Can't tell you just how much because that is reality. On that I was wishing I could tell you to get some tape, push the screw through the sticky side and then wrap the flaps back like a bandaid onto the drill bit. So, you've taped the screw to the bit and half of the problems are solved. Thanks for your content!

[@SpringRubber]

Subscribed sometime during covid but I missed this video until now. This is classic Stud Pack! Great how-to info, tips, chemistry, camera work, editing, sidebar commentary and humor. If someone asked me for the best SP video, this is in the Top 10.

[@faiths6853]

You are awesome I am a woman and you did this great and I understand all of it keep up the great work. You can see that you Love what you do!

[@nedscrivner9893]

35 years in the cabinet business (so far) Always installed solo, for most of that time uppers first (no ledger) the idea is you get under the cabinet for support, you develop a knack for it, but as I have gotten older, I now ( almost always ) set my base's 1st . How do I get under the walls with the base's in the way?? I made two box's out of plywood ( one lager, one smaller ) the large box is approximately 36" wide, 12" deep and 19 1/2 tall (thats important, the height) so after I set my base cabinets, box on top of base's, wall cabinet on top of box ( not much need of leveling wall because bases are set ) and make for hands free wall cabinet install. I have two sets of "Pony" faceframe clamps (little bit nicer that the Bessy's) got the first set 20 years ago best $200 I'd ever spent ( they were expensive back then for a set, now like $30 for the bessy's i think ) BTW the smaller box? same height its just smaller in width for when the 36" is to big and small enough in depth to fit inside the large box.. Cheers

[@BenMarvin]

You got 20 years on me in the biz. I've done both uppers first and bases first. Ledger boards, kicker sticks, free hand, all the ways. When I'm working solo, I do bases first, then whip out a 48x12 piece of plywood over the bases and my cabinet jacks. I think they're FastCap brand. But I can lift the upper on them, do micro adjustments, and if I forget a tool, I can step away and it won't fall, but still be on my level line.

[@nedscrivner9893]

@@BenMarvin , yep step away (thats what i meant by "hands free") I micro adjust with shims between the box and upper. I thought of the "box method" when I had to install cabinets on a block wall. set the upper on the box and then drill for tap-con's

[@jeffshackleford3152]

@@nedscrivner9893 Always a great time installing into masonry.

[@jessicacalder9099]

What size is your smaller box

[@nedscrivner9893]

@@jessicacalder9099 , the large box is actually 38x12 and the small is 28x9.5 (both 19.5 tall) I rarely use the smaller of the two, but handy is a corner or a wall over 39wide (the smaller fits inside of the larger so they take up the same amount of space)

[@mattski1979]

I like how you said, "34 and 9." I worked for over decade with a dude I became friends with. When we took measurements we'd say the number and then 3 for 3/16, 5 for 5/16, 7 for 7/16 , 9 for 9/16, 11 for 11/16, 13 for 13/16 and 15 for 15/16. It was just easier to communicate when we're both on the same verbiage. And we always used the same measuring tape as well. Different tapes have variances that'll goof you up sometimes.. I like your videos guys. Thank you very much.

[@turnkeyremodel]

Stud Pack, for the most part I've worked solo so thank you for confirming that all the minusha that I do is correct and necessary. As I view your videos they continue to confirm that my methods based on common sense are correct. Wish I'd known of you several years ago. Thanks from San Antonio TX

[@brucebrunelle5012]

Another great video Studpack ! Here’s a tip when measuring from the center point. Instead of using a pencil on the end of the tape just rub the tape end up and down.. it will leave a mark on the wall. This is also a great way to center a picture on the wall. Just put the mark near the top on one side. It will stay level unless it’s bumped.

[@joedake2287]

I have had really really good results with using foam ( yes ... low expansion foam for doors and windows) to secure island blocking to to concrete!! Just apply foam then set blocks into foam and set a weight onto it for about 5 min and your good to go. I deal alot with in floor heating and have made this my go to method. No holes or a chance of hitting water lines. It is very hard to move Once set but can be moved with a buzz saw.

[@conradcoolerfiend]

foam? why not PL adhesive in that case...

[@joedake2287]

The foam sets fast and can be cut loose if needed. Any residue can be cleaned up much easier than PL without the chance of chipping the concrete.

[@conradcoolerfiend]

@@joedake2287 thanks good explanation!

[@joedake2287]

Lol 32 years experience I'm more often than not fixing other "pros" work! Always trying to advance my skills and those around me. We like to say keep it positive or keep it moving!! Thanks

[@joedake2287]

Lol Thanks for the "positive" constructive comment!!

[@reydelsanchez]

Wow!! Never seen that. Using 2x4 to attach from the inside..What a great idea!! Notched 2x4 edge to compensate floor differential and using roofing material to keep moisture away from wood.. EXCELLENT GUYS!! 👉💯❤👍💥💥💥💥👊

[@MoGhotbi]

Love watching you guys work and explain all the tips and tricks you use. For a DIYer like me, that's so valuable. Thank you.

[@NoL0NGERhumAn]

@Stud Pack an easy way to do those cut out under the sink is to take some regular house paint and dab a little dot on the pipes line your cabinet up where it needs to go and give the back of the cabinet a hard slap. It will leave a mark right where your holes need to go. for the outlet though you have to measure or add a plastic box extension and do the same trick. Also if pipes are different lengths star with the longer ones first drill them out and slide back to the shorter ones. After a few times doing it it cuts down on measuring time and is super accurate.

[@Roy-ij1wq]

Love your videos. I just saved a ton of time painting a 2500 SF ranch using your tip on how to hold the brush when cutting in the ceiling and around trim. Took a little practice but now it is second nature. Now I'm getting ready to tackle the kitchen. I hadn't considered RTA cabinets until I saw your video. Even the manufacturer liked your tip on using a pneumatic staple gun and mentions this in their instruction video. But I'm still not convinced that the lower cabinets should be installed first. I like to gang the uppers together upside down on the ground when possible to get the tops lined up. Like you, I sight down the faces and install shims at the back to keep them from twisting. I also make two 2x4 deadman supports about 1/2 longer than my low spot to hold the cabinets in place. A gentle kick will raise the cabinet to the line. In my youth I could easily raise three cabinets by myself.

[@lyradm1]

It is very difficult to find quality contractors like you and your son. Thanks for all the great tips and best of luck to the both of you.

[@dandexinventor]

Nice job you guys! I've been cabinetmaking since my junior year in HS (1979) and what you did here is what I've been doing for installs the whole time (after learning from the professionals/cabinet shop owners and foremen). I have often used my straight-edge, a 8' long, 6061, aluminuim 2"x3" angle, 1/4" thick across the top front edges of the base cab's to be sure the counters would end up absolutely even (usually 1" to 1 1/4" from the face), but eyeballing that works also. The extra mile thinking is the use of 'sex screws' to pull the faces flush with each other when they meet up. The sex screws are used so as to not split a face frame with the pressure of the threads of a wood screw. I have seen the splits over the years when weight was added from pots and pans, dishes etc. as they can quickly add up to hundreds of pounds per cabinet, especially glass dishes in upper cabinets. The ones I have found to work best use a 3/16" hole drilled through both frames and the two parts are threaded together (I add blue Locktite too) while clamped and the cab's don't budge. Three on base cab's, four on uppers. Then shorter ones parallel to the top edge of the base cab's, about 2-3" down to be sure the cab boxes work together to support the countertops. Seems like more than is needed, but I can't tell you how many times I was removing cab's to be replaced, to see where the old cab's were about to fail, or did fail because of underestimating the stresses. I feel better after an install which has been over-done, not one where installers are asking themselves "what if?". The last thing I do is water-proof the top edge of at least the sink cab, but all of them if I can convice the owners. I use Christy's Red Hot Blue PVC cement and it is the only thing I have gone back to see it still working as planned long after the install. It was '04 when I began to use it and went to replace a sink last year where the on-counter sink sealant had failed but the top edge of the cab was fine though water had been migrating to that area behind the faucet for years.

[@justYouJesus1God]

Your video and very detailed instructions gave me hope to install cabinets without having to call a professional, thank you

[@rahkim]

bought that bessy tool it made the job so much easier. Thanks!!

[@seephor]

Here's a tip when working with a level on finished products. Put a piece of masking tape on the straight edge of the level and it prevents the black scuff marks you get on cabinets, walls, furniture etc.

[@michafender1537]

I so anticipate your videos; it's like watching my favorite movie. I can't get it out of my head. Love your work. Love from Jamaica 🇯🇲

[@ps-ri2qk]

Great video, I think the issue I've always had was how to properly install shims, how to keep them from moving around once installed and whether to cut them off or leave them between cabinets, etc. It would also really help if you numbered your videos to follow progress through each project ie: townhouse2,townhouse3, or similar.

[@joedake2287]

I dont recommend going more than 30 1/4" on a stove opening. Can cause alignment issues with uppes cabinets. Especially if there is a vent hood = microwave( usually 30") If it's an open wall you can get away with a little more, but if you are working out of a corner you can really screw with the layout of rest of cabinets

[@BenMarvin]

You can always adjust it in your fillers on either side. Slightly larger filler on the uppers and just work off the center line. If you have a face frame fridge panel on one side, it's already gonna be two different sized fillers.

[@joedake2287]

That's a possibility if you are using more of a spec type cabinet. I install primarily custom cabinets that have set size styles no fillers here. All our cabinets are made with 1/2" scribe on the style on the end cabinet only. Very clean look no room for fillers. It's all in the planning and prep. Thank

[@MSeroga]

@@joedake2287 You must work with very perfectly framed houses Joe, because if not... then you will need fillers :)

[@joedake2287]

Lol Most of the units I deal with have an additional 1/2" added to the style meeting the walls. Built in scribe strip. No seperate fillers. No house is perfect. Thanks for the feedback.

[@T_Jonesy]

Great video, as always. Have you guys heard of EZ Level? They're metal feet that get installed to the cabinets that make it possible to level each corner of the cabinet independently by adjusting a screw at the front of the cabinet. They're a game changer. If you try them, you'll never use shims again. Those Bessy clamps are amazing. I use them every time I do a cabinet install. Bill Mitchell mentioned a story pole in his comment. It's a much easier way to check for high points on a kitchen floor. Love your videos. Cheers!

[@StudPack]

Ordered some ez levels this morning 👍

[@lrc87290]

Thought about ez level but doesn't seem to be worth the effort and cost. In fairness I would have to try them first. I don't use tapered wood shims on the floor. They create a single point of contact which the stone counter can easily compress over time. I use various thickness scrap plywood shims, and luan shims that we pour wood hardener on to strengthen because luan is soft. For fine adjustments we use laminate samples that we get for free at the big box stores.

[@HisboiLRoi]

I recently installed owner supplied cabinets for a 14' x 14' L layout where there was a 1-3/4" floor variance from one end to the other. The maximum adjustment for EZ Level is 1-1/4". I ended up using plastic leveling legs that were rated at 330 lbs per leg. I had to lay on the floor and reach under the cabinet boxes to adjust the rear ones, but it still went pretty quickly. Shimming would have been a nightmare.

[@lrc87290]

@@HisboiLRoi Nice. I Like the way NS builders installs cabinets. They Build their own cabinets without toe kicks. They screw a level 2x4 to the wall and use plastic leveling legs in the front that have a snap on toe kick. How did you have room for your leveling legs. Di you cut the toe kicks off?

[@Nightrunnergunner]

Those are quite an old feature (5 years ago) Usually our European line cabinets all come with 4 or more adjustable feet but it only gives a certain degree. Best to level accordingly

[@billzima7068]

I have the old pony's. I like banking my cabinets on the floor with cabinets laying on their backs and clamp and screw face frames. I like using GRK trim screws and I run them through drawer box side and or behind hinges and I rip 7/16 OSB and use that between the box's and screw together then you are only setting one large cabinet rather then each box amd everything is perfect. I always set a 1x2 for a ledger and do my uppers first.

[@joshuawebster4272]

Paul, I love your vids. You and Jordan make a great team. We have a contracting company in Colorado. You are our kind of people. Keep up the good work on the channel. Its really growing and you guys deserve it with all the hard work. Thanks!

[@maydanlex]

Your explanations and the progression of those explanations are always easy to follow and on point. Appreciated.

[@hannakuhns5786]

Great video, and great information. Unlike most DIY guys on KZbin, you actually have content worth watching. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@HamBone86]

Damn, I love this channel! I just stumbled upon it about a week ago and have been watching these videos every night before bed. Very entertaining, and informative. Thank you for your efforts in sharing your passion!

[@hechoamano2591]

So.... you got me! This is my second or third video from you and I'm now subscribed. Love how well and insightful you are with everything you're doing. Thank you sir!

[@z06doc86]

I like to countersink the screws that clamp the face frames together, when they are clearly visible, and then fill the holes with Bondo, sand flat and touch up the paint. Bondo seems not to shrink or swell. Really enjoyed the video and picked up some good tips, especially the 24 inch temporary filler boards to keep the dishwasher opening exact width. Very smart. Thanks guys. PS….use composite shims and you don’t have to worry about them rotting from touching the concrete and soaking in water.

[@kenbrown2808]

the finish carpenter I work alongside the most takes the hinges off and puts countersunk screws behind the hinges. that way if he does have to pull a cabinet, he can just take the hinges back off.

[@sabast20i]

Another great video guys. I already installed my cabinets in January but I love watching others have to solve problems while doing a project. Always something to be learned.

[@markgarcia2430]

Great video again! So to help out with the screw dropping out of the bit, take a rain drop amount or less of butyl tape and press it on to the phillips bit then press the screw onto the bit. The stickness of the tape will hold the screw. Butyl tape has many purposes but When I was an auto body tech it was used to hold rear and side car windows in place by some auto manufacturers . You can get it at auto parts stores.

[@dennisparshall5204]

Love this show. My daily fix. I have learned a lot about what to do and not to do. Keep up the work, Stud Pack!!

[@luispereira6839]

My Friends you guys are the best !! stud pack daddy you are a great teacher , and when dealing with screws there is always one . thank you for all the tips. keep it up !!!!

[@letsRegulateSociopaths]

really great video. Love that you showed the back screw repeats. Think we've all been there so it was good to see that legitimacy!

[@ArtZasadny]

We took your advice and used the Bessey jig/clamp to install and set our new kitchen cabinets and it REALLY helped! My only suggestion is to install a slightly thicker pad on the clamp to prevent the metal part from contacting the cabinet face. Easily fixed with a cut-to-size furniture pad and that modification was the perfect modification.

[@rena321able]

I'm trying to figure out why the lower number is the high spot -- do you know?

[@jinwood12]

@@rena321able The laser line height remains constant. If the distance between the floor and laser line is different at two spots, then the floor height must be different (as laser line is constant). The distance is equal to "laser line" minus "floor height". Therefore, the higher the floor height, the lower the distance is between the floor and laser line.

[@cospittner3526]

Wow - this is the best cabinet install video I’ve seen. You guys rule.

[@mos8541]

Mr. Stud Pack you asked about why barrier on your bottom block but NOT under shims or pocket doors etc. we sometimes used a thin strip of that Tyvek window type sealer, its smooth and white on one side an black sticky on the other, or sometimes that colored foam "tape" that goes under the bottom plate between it and the slab. AND.. get a MAGNETIC SCREW SLEEVE ... SFMF

[@NickWickedone]

Greetings one of your beginner viewers here from the very early days of your videos, I always sit back and watch and really enjoy the father-and-son interaction and education in your content. The real cool thing about watching is a fact that you keep it educational and give great examples and tips. At 17 minutes though I just want to throw some advice that you that an oscillating cutter or what we call a multi-tool would have been a better choice to cut out that square in the back of your cabinet. I use it often for this application and it seems to work very well, Pro tip though, I would use a little painters tape along the edges of that line on the outer diameter due to the fact that you will get a cleaner cut without any Jagged edges

[@StudPack]

Thx Nick 👍. I left my multi tool at home that day 😡

[@lennygriffin4464]

Great information, And thank you for sharing your knowledge. Stay strong

[@bobbybaker2892]

This is a great educational video with awesome commentary and a few laughs. Well done, thank you. Newfoundland, Canada

[@Nightrunnergunner]

Great advice. Been in the cabinet business 8 years all the thinking ahead tips are quite important when room for error is slim

[@cjn999]

Man O Man, that face frame clamp is worth it's weight in gold! Great job as always. Looking forward to the upper installation.

[@coachsalling]

Yall do an outstanding job with your videos: Very informative, explained really well, and great sense of humor

[@yearight7956]

GRK # 12. Usually grk #8 fin/trim head screws for connection face frames. Occasionally I need something with some grab to really pull face frames tight so I’ll use a regular head either counter sink or hide with hinge.

[@peterkazmir]

Great video! Love the moments of humor you include, and the pride you put into your work!

[@LightZone9]

The little tips provided along the way make all the difference. Thanks for another great video!

[@richg3411]

I miss doing projects like this with my dad. Jordan, never take this time with your dad for granted...go slow my man and relish every moment you can.

[@abelgonzalez1337]

Now is time to go back and reinstall my cabinets . Thanks for the video

[@markpang8847]

10:30 that’s why I subscribed. Y’all don’t try to cover up small inaccuracies. I can relate and definitely learn for this. Thank you for sharing. Keep up the great work.

[@vince9486]

Great video. Great comments to help all of us. I learned to install the top first and we used story poles. I just like the fun videos and honesty, integrity, and being transparent and real. Always fun to watch. Paul is like most of us...do the best you can and try to make a living.

[@deeworkzz2861]

great tips, however I went the same route as you lifting the back of the cabinet to the line without a shim. my foreman told me it’s not good to rely on just the screws alone to hold the weight of the countertop. to each his own, just good insight. we moved the cabinet back out and shimmed it up.

[@millieh.-nyc6537]

What an incredible duo. I love how you clearly explain this process. Be well.

[@csavage1947]

Excellent presentation. You are a good trainer, and your experience shows.

[@jerrymay3806]

when you don't have a magnetic driver, you can attach your screw to the driver with a short wrap of tape and it help to prevent the screw from falling off the driver and usually the tape will stay attached to the driver once the screw is embedded. and you guys d[ a great job, love your videos

[@nicolaasvanwyk890]

I should have seen this before i started my kitchen remodel. Well done guys and good camera work and editing!

[@jasonmyers3358]

I’ve used clamps called pony clamps for years that are pretty much the same thing! They were sold at Sears! They do work great, with perfect face frame attachment!

[@pjd420]

Stud Pack thank you! I went out and bought those Bessey clamps and installed 22 kitchen cabinets with these. They are so much better and faster then a standard clamp. I am hoping that Bessey can add a little vertical and horizontal level bubble. I am very OCD about little things like that and that would really make a great product complete. Keep u the outstanding work and advice you guys give! I am becoming a better finisher because of all your advice!

[@tonyaddy7825]

Hey Paul!! A little pro tip old gentleman told me take a piece of electrical tape punch your screw through the tape and wrap it around bit get started before snugging it up pull tape tighten screw. BAM! never lose a screw again.