HOW TO INSTALL TOP PIECE OF SIDING

[@jshumphress13]

Appreciate the tip. Never messed with siding before as our house is mostly brick, but a storm came though and knocked my top piece of siding down (it’s dangling). I just might have to try this.

[@hightechcarpentry]

Awesome solution! I don't deal with a ton of vinyl, but when I do the top run is always a problem. Thanks!

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

This is the best way I know of. Never had an issue

[@michaelbedell6523]

Awesome tip for reattaching the top row that the wind removed since the installer used smooth shank nails. Great presentation for us weekend warriors.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

Happy to help! This is the best way if done right

[@likearockcm]

I'm very glad I found this video !! My problem is the last panel fit half way into the j-channel so I have about an inch run and this trick will work for that. And the piece will float with the last panel if I don't use under sill. Thanks

[@corbu6312]

This is exactly what I needed to know for a small repair I'm attempting at our home. Thanks for the upload. Very helpful!

[@joshhead9368]

Great video man thanks a lot. I've got a few pieces that come off everything it gets windy and it's driving me nuts. I m going to go with this method

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

Glad I could help

[@SILLYHILLBILLY43]

Just wondering how expansion and contraction play into this method? I would never caulk a hook strip on vinyl, but if I were going to use this method, I would at least stich caulk it (2" caulking every 24", for example). I feel like the second the temperature changes the top of this wall is going to look like a sun chip.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

If you use 100% silicone it will be able to expand and contract

[@philbear21]

100% silicone will expand with the piece, but I’d still stitch it where I live, in NC. We get up to 50 degree swings in temperature in one day at the changing of seasons. I cut the hook at an angle every 18” or so, and fold it under itself to thicken the lip that goes into to lock, and sometimes use silicone, or run a ring shank trim nail every 4-6 feet straight up through the lip and lock, but not into the sheeting as a last resort. I hang triple 6 with styrofoam insulation with this method and don’t get call backs, and they’re as heavy as it gets. (18” tall by 12-16 feet long)

[@hs1847]

I like your tatooed ring not going to losing a finger. smart!

[@elaney49]

Thanks!!

[@occultustactical6138]

I’m installing Vinyl cedar shake. CertainTeed recommends using the cornice molding at the top row which is wide enough to hide the nailing strip. The local ABC Supply says it’s discontinued and no longer available in my color, so I should just use the matching J-channel. The J-channel is no where near wide enough to cover the nailing strip. Doing it their way is forcing me rip the top row nailing strip off and face nail the shake into the sheathing. I’m concerned that with no room to expand and contract that top row will bow. I’m fairly creative, but this has me stumped. The shake pieces are three rows high by 48” wide. They lock together with 4 or 5 locking strips on the back and the face of the row below it. They lock when pressing them upwards, not pressing them in a downward direction so you’re fighting gravity as well. Not sure what to do but silicone might be the answer.

[@beebob1279]

The notching has been an issue for me over twenty years. I used the under sill strip and it just doesn't hold. I'm hoping your work fixes my issue. I've got left over siding from the job and will try your method this summer My only question to this is expansion. Won't it be a problem with expansion and contraction in the heat and cold?

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

you need to use 100 percent silicone but i have been siding for 15 years and have never had a piece come off

[@beebob1279]

@@Lifes_Apprentice Thank you. I've got nothing to lose. I'm tired of it coming off.

[@davidunderwood4341]

This might be OCD, but I usually get color match exterior paint in a small quart. Then just pilot bit small hole every 3 feet or so just under the J channel. Use small fascia trim nails and drive with a nail set. and then dab it with a q tip with the paint. Will never come off. The silicon is a great back up though. No one can notice the small nail heads. If they do, they are more OCD than me and my technique!

[@jasoncunningham5595]

A few little blobs in the bottom will work fine to save some silicone. Also keeps it from seaping out of the weep holes on bottom. My dad taught me this trick 20 yrs ago. Works well

[@beebob1279]

I commented earlier and my neighbor who is a building said to never do this. I commented a year ago and haven't gone after the issue yet. I guess I'll give it a try tomorrow since it's Labor Day and I'm tired of it coming loose and fixing it. Even where a contractor came in to do a garage is actually falling off. It's frustrating and I don't know if I screw up, will I be able to get that siding again.

[@jasoncunningham5595]

@@beebob1279 it'll work fine.

[@terrig8431]

Thank you. I was in such a bind and this cleared everything up.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

Your welcome!

[@harryballsacky]

AMATEUR

[@roofinggod1540]

Great idea 👍. Someone will inevitably complain... But that will honestly just be because they are jealous they aren't doing what you're doing. Keep it up! Be safe brother 💪

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

im sure someone will tell me it is wrong. works for me and sick of fixing peoples stuff who does it different

[@tminer2110]

not bad idea but I just use scrap top lock tab and about 3 inches of siding from cut scrap siding (top of siding) slide into j channel nail flat to wall then measure height needed to lock tab stuff into lock tab and bam it will not let go.... as long as you measure height right. if you really want to use silicone then put into scrap lock tab.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

Nice!

[@rsgabrys----]

----------‐------------- agree , better than notched....I use another method besides silly-cone ...every 2f or so cut product to create a 'tab' 2.5in wide x 5/8" - 3/4" tall . heat product w/hand brake bend forward back onto self leaving 1/8" gap this acts as tension spring 'lock' inside of the finish strip....tried tested trued...thx..

[@ezyjack826]

thanks for the great video. I'm going to be siding a steel shipping container. how can I attach the siding since I can't nail it? ty for any assistance you can give.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

In order to do vinyl siding you will have to screw in some 1x3 lumber or something every 16 inches to nail your siding and trim. that is the best way I can think of

[@ezyjack826]

​@@Lifes_Apprentice thanks for the reply.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

@@ezyjack826 no problem

[@queentishay85]

🙏🏿 thanks so much

[@vapilot7814]

Great tip

[@danielsmit11]

Nope. This is the exact wrong way to install vinyl siding. Correct way is undersill and a snap lock punch and trim nails every few feet not nailing tightly though.

[@user-tk8qi6gp7m]

What about expansion that top piece won’t be able to move as well as the other siding

[@beachboardfan9544]

Whats a tube of silicone cost? Thats got to be way more expensive than using undersill and snap lock punches

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

it cost about 4 bucks. it doesnt really save money this way but saves alot of time and will not fall off

[@biologymajor1]

Well, since a 12ft strip of undersill is 10.48 right now, I vote for the caulk lol

[@beachboardfan9544]

@@biologymajor1 Holy fuck is it really that expensive right now!? Used to be around 6$

[@roofer850channel4]

I either do that or put fascia nails in it under the bar. If it's really high, I put colored pole barn screws in it. It will NOT come off and is replaceable.

[@beebob1279]

My neighbor is a retired builder and he told me to do the same thing. I asked about room to move and he said it's not an issue. The directions to my siding when I sided the house twenty some years ago was not to caulk or nail the top strip. I'm put up the dutch lap siding from Alcoa.

[@user-md4vd8lh5c]

You can find the lowest point on the house, and make all your corners that size. Then install the siding parallel to the house, and you won't get this problem. The top row will not have angle, this gives your install a more polished look. The under sill piece should work better in this case!

[@danielsmit11]

Except you want the corners to all match up and the windows/doors to look level. Which from what little I can see the siding looks level to the window. This was a case of either the builder couldn't read a tape measure or level or a corner of the house settled. That being said this is still improper. Never use silicone on vinyl siding except to go around the window and door channel. Proper way would've been to just use j channel at the top the finish (fascia nails) ever few feet where the nailing flange had to be cut off.

[@pa.fishpreacher6166]

Do you silicone the top also or is it just inside the J?

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

I only silicone the top piece of siding where it hooks onto lower piece

[@pa.fishpreacher6166]

@@Lifes_Apprentice thank you

[@beebob1279]

@@Lifes_Apprentice I commented to you about a year ago on this. I haven't done the caulking yet because I'm concerned about the directions saying not to do it this way. Yet I'm tired of the siding coming down. Tomorrow it Labor Day and my neighbor is going to the home improvement store. I guess I'll do it then.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

@@beebob1279 Don't worry about it because when you caulk it it will not fall down

[@beebob1279]

@@Lifes_Apprentice I adjusted the under sill to see if that works. I may have to drop it another 1/4 inch to make it hold. I'm thinking the house settle a bit and I have to drop the under sill a bit to keep the top siding up. IF this doesn't work out comes the caulk.

[@jacobjustdoit941]

I do that to on low pitch angles but like you said, it oozes out where the holes are. I always dab it like a I was pounding a nail but not were the holes are one less thing to clean up. I’m not hating at all just saying what I do, like you do, keep hustling

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

dabbing would definitely work. a little oozing out isnt the end of the world assuming you dont get it on the siding

[@CrashBr0]

I used Dynaflex 230. I know it's not silicone, but I'm too lazy to go to Home Depot right now. I'll let you know how it holds in an update at a later time. I'm in Michigan, don't like the weather? Wait 15 minutes 😂 we get a lot of temperature swings.

[@jasonantonation8787]

Hmm, opinions are fine. Undersill inside of j-channel with punched tabs on the siding is how the products are engineered to work.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

this piece is cut on an angle bud. would have loves to see you get that in undersill. i dont like call backs thats why i do this

[@jasonantonation8787]

@@Lifes_Apprenticeya well, apprentice is in your name, bud...

[@danielsmit11]

​@@jasonantonation8787no doubt. At that angle should've just used j-channel and secured with finish nails where the nail flange had to be cut off. Never ever use silicone on vinyl siding except around the window channel. Bad thing is he stated this is the way he finishes all top rows regardless.

[@harmandhaliwal8287]

Can you install soffits on vinal siding without j

[@darcycolborne2565]

This is a stupid question, but how do you cut the last piece of siding? I have almost 100' of perimeter, and the skill saw shatters the vinyl and yellow metal snips are excruciating for that amount of lineal footage.

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

we use snips but you can use a razor knife and cut it or use a grinder with a metal cut off wheel

[@darcycolborne2565]

@@Lifes_Apprentice thanks for the reply!

[@natethegr8230]

There's special saw blades just for siding. You could also flip your regular saw blade around so it's backwards.

[@dw1284]

Turn the blade backwards on your skil saw. Use small tooth blade like for paneling. You won't shatter the siding.

[@danielsmit11]

Tin snips

[@hhprogressiveconstruction1140]

We caulk in between the weep holes and throw some trim nails in the weep holes .

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

no need for nails with the caulk i think

[@hhprogressiveconstruction1140]

Life's Apprentice It’s my added insurance not a lot just made two or three a full length piece .

[@Joe_H_]

So not need, the caulk will hold. Should never put or block the weep holes.

[@shifttyyt8477]

Dont caulk the holes its a drain hole lol

[@georgerogers2419]

That's the only way I do it too

[@crispychicken2743]

What about expansion and contraction. Your way is the fast way out. Have you ever just nailed the hell out of the top piece , the. Paint the nail heads. You will not be on my development .

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

100% silicone allows for expansion and contraction. If you are looking for subs for your "developement" project and watching "how to" videos on youtube you are not doing your job bud

[@robertkilgore8405]

Installation wrong. Sorry

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

how would you have installed double 4 dutchlap in this spot?

[@andyk6325]

*crickets

[@danielsmit11]

Yep. In this particular case since the house or window was built by someone who obviously couldn't read a tape measure or level the correct way would just be j channel then use trim nails every few feet where the nailing flange had to be cut off. If the roof line had been straight then undersill, snap lock punch then trim nails every few feet but not nailed tightly so the vinyl can breathe (expand).

[@MrTtillub]

What a cobble job , i wouldn't want you siding my house...!

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

thanks for watching!

[@dAdventure1]

@@Lifes_Apprentice That's fine, you can do the siding my house. It will look good when finished and I prefer my siding to stay on the house!

[@shaneboulos5714]

Dead wrong. These are the ones that blow off. Undersill and the sl5 punch are the absolute best way. Been doing this 30 years. This is pure lazy with a waste of money

[@Lifes_Apprentice]

You cannot use undersill on an angled cut like this bud

[@TEXASBIRDS27]

Chill