How to Install Trusses - Laying Out and Installing

[@m4rkscott]

once you have nailed one side of the truss apply a tourniquet to the other side to bring it down prior to nailing then remove when 4 or 5 nails have been driven home, I tend to use small ratchet straps so I can do it alone and if it moves the truss out of alignment I fit a temporary block behind it as a stopper

[@PivotDirector]

Hey thanks a bunch Home Improvement Camp! I'm a couple hours away from starting a new job framing, and first thing we're installing trusses(in the snow, on top of that). I figured I'd get ahead of the game and watch a couple videos. Very informative; thanks again.

[@spiritwarrior2942]

Still doing framing lol?

[@PivotDirector]

@@spiritwarrior2942 lmao nah. Thanks for bringing me back to this. It was miserable. I make cabinets for a living now :)

[@MrClosedCaptioned]

I did my gable trusses and one of them was pushing up just like your. I would suggest a C-clamp as your second pair of hands. They were the best investment. My only regret was not having a larger clamp (to make it around the header). It will pull them together with 2k+ lbs of force. I heard someone else mention a ratchet strap. That sounds like a great idea too. (though the one I have is way too large. It's more for a trailer tie down) My biggest issue was figuring our how to tie down the gable end trusses. I awkwardly installed H2.5A ties on them. I didn't know if you were allowed to nail through the mending plates on the trusses.

[@donmamon9263]

Use A35 to fasten end truss to your top plate

[@johnlasseigne7676]

Or if you're up on the second story and you'll get screamed at for going to get them tools, grab a 2' piece and a block and a wedge. Driving that wedge in there will get most of those gaps out. No time wasted. Take it off later when the crane leaves

[@victorvictor128]

Thank you Mike Rowe.

[@theMezianaThai]

Very great video. For me the sound is good, no problem. Video very helpful. Thank you.

[@DSMitch]

awesome video, learned a lot, could you have used a clamp on the 1st truss to pull it down before nailing it

[@josephdodson9460]

After watching the video advert i was still skeptical. But when i finally downloaded the plans kzbin.infoUgkxZF0EMnrujZvqHhGkxiz559uIABJWR9TG i was very impressed. The whole plan was just as you said in the video. Thank you very much. I now have a large and valuable collection for my woodworks. This is great!

[@chriswiggins4842]

I love this brother, you explain it real well,

[@gabbybartnicki5203]

Stupefying !!! Really set by set guide to make a shed

[@j-man6001]

VERY HELPFUL THANK YOU VERY MUCH, Have a project very similar to the one in this video!

[@jonecancel]

I use a clamp to pull those ends down. Just I case no one mentioned it lol

[@eddieclatterbuck6626]

Good info I use 25 and half in blocks nails on top trusses temp then knock off while sheathing

[@wayneedmonds2936]

1. A couple of ratcheting straps will pull the truss base board down tight and level on the top plate before nailing. 2. The problem with a short truss is an engineering problem causing a possible failure in the vertical stud wall. The lower chord of the angled roof truss cannot touch the top plate seat. My experience has been most framers will not stop and call the GC so he/she can get a correct truss. They usually make one end sit and shim up the other. This is wrong..... Had this happened to me and it turned out to be a hell of an expensive problem. Thx for your video.

[@paulphillips2069]

Like the way you explain things!

[@shelbyandmargaret]

Thanks for the video. It has been very helpful:)

[@Adam-vu6zk]

you've never built shit

[@deankay4434]

Any framing job site has certain standard tools. A flat wrecking bar is one as the come with a forked pry end and hole over it, the other end is the same except a 90 degree bend with hole in the bar. My grandpa used his with bent end up a 1/4” above a warped board. Then he had me use my bar from my tool belt to pry down. Simple, no clamps, no “C” clamps, no mother-in-law sitting on it, just leverage. If your wrecking bar that you use to take things apart, remove nails and pry, does not have a single hole on each end, then get one that does. I think mine is a 50 year old Stanley. Ever use those holes before? Heck, I fixed cars and knew that!

[@jonathonsales9802]

Harderst part of roof framing ... Not being scared to actually get on the roof. Your not on a ladder ... Your walking 1.5" inch wood when walking rafters gapped usually 24 inches (2ft)each across. Or 5.5" to 3.5" inches running outside the entire house which is called the top plate. Unless your building small houses your up 2 to 3 stories in the air. Once you learn the valleys and Californias... The correct laminating techniques. The proper layout for your trusses and hangers to tie into eachother jack or common. You still have backing to install for your drywall ... Of course Plywood spacing.. Ridge cuts if plans ask for 3 inches open. You leave 1.5 inch on each side for every ridge exposed. Shingle molding... Fascia installation. Diff. Between hip and common cuts. And when and when not to use degrees on your cuts. 27 45 etc. Siding or plywood on a house .. Tells you where your gable should run flush... With the top plate or the plywood. This will be your starting point for your 23 1/4 inch mark. Also when installing gable ends... you ALWAYS.. Immediately if you can. Install your sway bars inside to keep the rafters from well swaying. See plans for spacing. 4 or 6 ft. Also you have rat runs and strong backs... Gable strong backs and overhang that can vary from your eve to your barge. Diaphragm blocking. Ledgers.. And this has to be up to code or the city inspector is going to get you fired. Lmao Who wants to pay you 2 for the same job. No company. All this while balancing on pieces of wood angled at a slope with 100 degrees weather outside some times... Framing roofs is not as easy as it sounds or he tries to make it seem.. unless the house has a simple layout from my experience... You better know what your doing up there. Seen alot of carpenters think they can just get up there and figure it out. Trusses are different then cutting your own common rafters.. Your not suppose to cut into them, ever, for structural integrity purposes, only the rafter tails for your facia and gables, 1.5 deep for your 2x4 blocks to extend from your barge and tie into the eve with the fascia . Just make sure you can mark your layout according to your plans and cut the speciality blocks for double or triple etc trusses to keep your 24inch spacing. Looking for any variants in measurement like the A.A. attic access or metal straps that tie into the trusses and top plate ... Good luck 😜

[@gyreeene]

Good video. The stiletto is the best. Do all trusses have the tails? I'm building a shed and not sure I want the extra work involved with building soffits. Thanks

[@john1cheree]

You can use a bar clamp to pull that gap end down to the top plate.

[@yeahbuddytime2158]

So with the second truss...you mentioned measure from the first truss out to 24” and subtract 3/4”? Would that then put your second truss 23.1/4”OC? Or do you set your second truss at 23.1/4” ? And then 24oc after and so on. Are you measuring from the outside of the first truss? I’m building a 24x33.2 garage. Just trying to figure out how to make sure it breaks on 24” all the way down.

[@kumentador959]

Nailing it alternately on both sides will make the truss more sturdy and steadier in place...,

[@robj7481]

"Always good to have a couple people helping you"... do as I say, not as I do?

[@79TEOG]

Long timber screws going down through bottom cord of truss to double top plate and impact drill will pull the truss right down

[@DD-lr6ne]

Great Video. Stupid question, what do you do if you don't have 24" on center for the last truss? Say you get down the row and find you have 36" between the last two trusses. Do you space them all equally or do you put in one extra truss but keep all the rest at 24" OC? It's an old building and I'm sure the spacing will not be perfect at all.

[@oxoboxo84]

Many times a couple of 6" Timberpegs screwed up thru the top plate into the bottom chord of the truss will pull it down. As you stated though, it will be covered with plywood so it's not really a huge deal.

[@johnclark3431]

I love the video! But my only question is do you have to use nails when toe nailing trusses? I like my torx screws for those fussy gaps that won’t push together with out help.. but that’s me, I’m usually using screws just because I love how well they hold. Personal preference or industry standard? Truss construction is new to me but I’m building a garage that requires truss instillation.

[@thetruthmatters7]

Very good! Thank you.

[@robertturner6627]

Great job, and only one good thought would be use clamp to pull the end truss, then nail it…

[@duratoke]

I used to build trusses, those plates can be murderous! Mostly they're not bad to handle (carefully). it takes a couple 24" rollers to press them in place.

[@wemcal]

Great video

[@AV8R_1]

Great video.. One question.. When I see those mending plates they are always labled, "not for truss use", or "not for structural use" yet I see them often used for exactly that.. Which is it?

[@johnmaddox7432]

I have purchased engineered trusses and they do use these plates. I would guess that as long as the engineer is satisfied, it's his signature guaranteeing their purpose.

[@douglasdavis1942]

Sliders and additional practicing must be added per building code or per engineer's schematic. The truss manufacturers build it as far as they can for you. It is not complete and you must check and add to it.

[@ColinMill1]

Personally I hate the look of trusses that rely on these plates. Our old farm-house has a traditional North of England stone roof of which the stones alone weigh about 4 tons. That load has been supported for about 300 years by a properly jointed and pegged oak King-post that looks good for another 300 years. As and when I need a roof on an outbuilding I will certainly be looking for a similarly construction and not something relying on a nasty bit of pressed tin.

[@melbournemaxx5345]

use 1 timber screw at each end it will solve any problems and alot stronger.

[@jamessmith6683]

Watched this for a class assignment was very insightful though I wish he had used a clamp rather than using his body weight at the top of the ladder like that would be safer and or more effective :)

[@auspicious113]

use a cargo strap to pull the end down to your top plate

[@achristianson4059]

I notced that you have the rafter running off the joist of your truss, with no notched out any notched out seating. is that a build code. I always that you had to cut out and notch for your rafter sit on the framing cap.

[@tjsmyrna9716]

Very good work next time use a clampdown on to make the wood even before you nail it down

[@williamstephenson6387]

It's Mike Rowe!

[@royhoco5748]

wait until you hang that wedding band on something, something similar happened to me when I was younger and I was hanging in the air by a ring cutting into my finger. I haven't worn a ring since

[@royhoco5748]

+soaringtractor sometimes we pay for our education by experience not from studying a book

[@deme7063]

+roy hoco have a relative who lost ring finger when it got caught on nail as he jumped down outa attic!

[@gunnyoorah1846]

why not place a clamp on the bottom cord to bring it down level with the bottom wall? deeman just a suggestion...

[@kevinbrighton7464]

Hi there is difficult to cut of existing roof truss and reused for second floor addition??

[@PivotDirector]

+kevin Brighton I'm curious as to how this went.. let me know if you don't mind

[@krazyj1957]

Couldn't you use a large wood clamp to draw it in?

[@bobbyreyes4851]

Jesus was a carpenter

[@conchitareyes790]

+bobby reyes , and his mother had a baby out of wedlock!

[@jenniferoviawe]

bobby reyes oh my God what a cute comment lmfao..God bless you I'm smiling

[@pollauritsabrahamsenjq1618]

Makes sense. 2000 years later we are still waiting!

[@danielhall6938]

Allegedly a carpenter, but look at the area he lived in, everything off stone and mortar. So maybe, really he was a mason?

[@dalewinemiller7720]

What did he say when he smacked his thumb with a hammer

[@jonthemachine1970]

How to install a Truss. I wanted to see how the rest were tied in until sheathing is installed.

[@edwardcharles9764]

Instead of fighting with the truss to get it flush with the plate ready for nailing, here's an idea. Use a clamp!

[@bebeysmael1.]

Nice

[@TGUlricksen]

Could you shim it so the truss doesn't tweak?

[@sseann132]

Shims rot in two seconds

[@lxmzhg]

+Sean Edwards not cedar shims

[@Stan_in_Shelton_WA]

If it is 24" on center why set the first truss at 23.25 inches?

[@egillskallagrimssonberserk1671]

Stan Rodgers he was saying mark a line on 23 and a quarter so you can set the side of the truss on the line. It would make the 2x6 center on 2ft

[@PaulPaid]

This guy should invest is some large, heavy duty c-clamps.

[@bebeysmael1.]

I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!! If you're going to record a video please make sure your volume is ALL THE WAY UP so we on this side can hear you. Thank you.

[@PivotDirector]

+Bobbi Ysmael You realize the volume is on your end, not his. Right?

[@GomerfromIsaan]

Bobbi's point is valid. I turned my volume all the way up but the music in between speaking segments blasted out my ears. The volume during the speaking parts was too low.

[@samd1405]

@@PivotDirector obviously, you've never edited a video- because in any decent software you can up your volume levels quite easily. These levels are far too low.

[@noahbrewster8263]

Thank you

[@zman5970]

A strap tie down would of cinched it down tight. Never leave dead air like that.

[@chivone21]

NICE VIDEO!!! You got my vote. Just one small thing. I was itchin' to use my Harbor Freight Quick Release Bar Clamp that would have brought that baby down tight! Then nailed it home. Prolly wouldn't matter much, but that gap is going to be there until a weight settling load is applied, and it might bulge a wall, or siding or you might never see it at all.....but, you know.....the wife might know it's there and it might be like the proverbial "pea" under the mattress that makes her back hurt. Oh shoot, keep yur wife outta the work site LOLOL

[@jeffreysutton2943]

why not use clamp to pull down

[@Paulie1232]

Holy Shit you look like Mike Rowe !

[@thunderstruck122]

Why do people still use nails instead of screws for pinning, initially?

[@caseyjohnson6573]

Nails bend screws break. Shear strength of nail is more then a screw

[@soullessbagel8380]

Trusses laying out and installing

[@richardromano4086]

So you don't get people confused the 1st and last are not called trusses they are the Gables, as for the end that is raised , why is it raised or is the wall low ? a better way to bring it down to match would be to use a large C-Clamp or a ratchet strap to pull them together rather then putting all your weight on it and lifting yourself off your ladder or scaffolding

[@lxmzhg]

toe nailing weakens the truss... there's got to be a better way

[@user-yz8ic3bl6l]

із фронтона доску треба було ставити на ребро, для жоскості.

[@liliancarreira2962]

I can hear him

[@victorhaggy7024]

What is up with the sound?

[@romeliapolly1212]

Enjoy woodprix woodworking instructions.

[@kansascityshuffle8526]

Can never trust those gangs...

[@marks9949]

9:58- has hammer- uses hand.

[@archangel20031]

I really wish they had decent sound. I can't hardly hear him speak.

[@joshual830]

We all appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us, truly. However, listening to you talk incessantly is not helpful in any fashion other then a very succinct matter.

[@richardjensen7186]

I know that this is an old video, but almost a million people have viewed it, and you lost me at: "You go out 2 foot and then you come back 3/4 of an inch, and that will give you your center line for 2 foot on center." Just a mistake in explanation, I'm sure. But this is an instructional video, and that's a glaring instructional error! When you go back 3/4 of an inch, you are marking where the EDGE of the truss will line up rather than the "center line." You are seeking 2-foot CENTERS, which means that the "back 3/4" line is at the EDGE (presuming 1 1/2 inch wide lumber). You line up the EDGE of the truss with that mark, which puts the CENTER at 2 feet from the previous truss's CENTER. You would never mark a "center line," because when you set the truss, it would then cover the line, and you would be guessing about the exact center. Then, some sheathing edges would be barely on a truss, while others would be mostly or all covering the truss. I have actually seen inexperienced (but sure of themselves) people do what you said (probably because they heard somebody like you say it), and it ALWAYS produces a nightmare when they start laying the sheathing. And, if you marked the "center line" back 3/4 of an inch, as your verbiage says, then your entire layout would be off by 3/4 of an inch relative to the edges of the sheathing. The only fix then is to buzz 3/4 of an inch off of your first course of sheathing to then put 4-foot and 8-foot sheets on layout again. A final, critical point you don't explain is that the second truss must be on a two-foot center from the OUTSIDE EDGE of the first truss, NOT from the first truss's center. This is the one exception to "two-foot centers" in layout. You want the edge of the sheathing to line up with the edge of the first truss, but that sheet's "inside" edge needs to land in the center of its "downstream" truss (be it at four feet or eight feet). So the two-foot center layout needs to be "backed off" by and ADDITIONAL 3/4 of an inch from the very start, which means measuring from the outside edge of the first truss and not its center. Once you are pulling layout correctly from that first truss's outside edge, "back 3/4 of an inch" will correctly get you the EDGE of every other truss, which will put each truss's CENTER where it needs to be. In short, not even two minutes into an instructional video, your (let's call it "sloppy") verbiage has led people astray in a critical and fundamental way! People that NEED this level of instruction aren't getting it here, and people that don't need it can overlook this fundamental mistake in explanation because they presumed what you meant. But a noob by definition can't presume what you meant. So, this video fails to be instructional at the most fundamental point.

[@garrettminske8990]

A lot changes in 7 years

[@nickf1559]

Your volume sucks .but a good video

[@georgehumphrey4832]

Lots of "ums" and starting sentences over.

[@reefuss12]

dude...BUY SOME NAIL GUNS

[@MrClosedCaptioned]

+reefuss12 They are fantastic. Though, I haven't mastered the art of toe-nailing with it.

[@lxmzhg]

+soaringtractor When I worked as a carpenter in my younger years, I always used to admire how fast the pro's could nail with a hammer. Now with the nail gun, everyone is a pro. ;-)

[@threecreationleather6596]

Can't hear you. Bye !

[@williamgoring7605]

I'm just going to let you know all that fancy beginning to your work video is like We're Men we don't need all those big letters scrolling by to see all that b******* for a few minutes before the video starts let's get on with it you seem like you got some good videos out there but why don't you duck the introduction

[@BIG_AL_ONE]

Stop talking and get to it!

[@kravenkrawlhobby5438]

That how you layout trusses. You don’t have to burn 3/4 cause of the pretty board over the eve’s you are spreading false information.