How To Joint a Board Without a Jointer | Hand Tool Woodworking Skill

[@user-qb5wy5dg8w]

Finally I found someone showing a way that doesn't need a tablesaw or even a jig. Thanks a lot that's so DIYers friendly! 😭❤️

[@WoodByWright]

I'm glad I could help. This channel's all about doing it the hard way but just hand tools.

[@Jake-lr7bv]

Man I've been watching your videos every night after wife passes out for like three months and don't think I've commented yet. Thanks for your videos, I've gone deep into the woodworking rabbit hole and collected a decent set of tools, but each of them needs some love as does bench. Anywhosie, sincerest thanks and if you're ever in Austin, bbq on me.

[@WoodByWright]

+Jake M thanks Jake that means a lot. If you ever need anything just let me know.

[@AndrewDNicholson]

I just spent a whole day trying to figure out what i was doing wrong with my jointing plane. I feel fully confident ill have a nice straight edge tomorrow thanks to this video. Thanks mate

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks. Glad I could help!

[@ryanpinkham6784]

It’s nice to grow a skill that can remain, even if the power is off☝🏻

[@LumberBrax]

I don’t know how I didn’t see this video sooner. I feel like I’ve watched dozens of videos on jointing long boards by hand (including others by Wood by Wright), and while they’ve all added a bit of depth to my understanding, non has been quite as straight forward and to the point as this. This seriously has made the process seem so much more approachable. Thank you!

[@ryanallthewiser]

Love going back and watching your older videos. Great refresher!! Thanks James

[@arunmurarigm]

You are remarkably clear in your explanation, nothing redundant, about such a difficult issue. Thanks and keep it up.

[@WoodByWright]

Thnaks you Arun! that means a lot!

[@user-mg7yd9wk8r]

Hi I'm at college as you no and what's next for me is a setting out rods for doors windows would u show n send videos on how to get them done with standard measurements for us students keep up good work uv inspired me to make tools when I'm a level 3 please show how there done thank you scott😊😊

[@kuffyswoodwork]

This will be a video that I will direct people to in the future when they ask how to edge joint by hand. Top stuff!👍👍👍

[@WoodByWright]

+Kuffys Woodwork thanks man. That is about the best complement I could get.

[@georgethompson6308]

The big lesson in this video is the part about the "joy" of doing this (wood working). This is why I do it. Well done.

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks George. That's what this channel is all about sharing the joy of woodworking.

[@Icaros1234]

Thank you so much. I did it just like you and finally managed to join two 1.4 m long 4mm thick oak pieces. appreciate it a lot!

[@WoodByWright]

sweet man. that is about the best compliment I could get.

[@mc3newsmcocconcierge504]

You just saved me with this video. Doing my first major wood working project creating a pine beam coffee table. Let’s just say I’m almost at the cost of buying it from a professional with a lot of wood filler in between each beam. Going to take it apart and edge joint it by hand tomorrow.

[@WoodByWright]

Sweet! glad I could help!

[@markharris5771]

By far the most informative planing video I’ve seen.

[@WoodByWright]

Thank you Mark

[@BillHartCooks.]

You keep this up and you are going to make Roy Underhill jealous. I mean, you make hand tools cool and you still wear a modern watch, and you don't wear the funny hat. Keep it up. love your content and your attitude.

[@WoodByWright]

LOL thanks Bill that is the best compliment I can get. he still has 30 seasons on me.

[@seanporter113]

You are an amazing teacher. I enjoy watching your videos and learn something from every single one. I am fairly new to the art of joining with hand planes. I guess I have been mainly a power tool woodworker for about 20 years. As I evolve, I find myself wanting to do more with less electricity. Call it a challenge... and a challenge it is. The hand tools needed tend to be as expensive or more so than the power tools to do the same job. So I find myself adding a little at a time and/or fine tuning the hand tools that I have neglected over the years. I plan to sacrifice a cheap #4 plane in my arsenal to make a wooden joiner plane that will suffice until I can justify a veritas kit and a more complicated build. Thank you for your expertise. I believe you, Paul Sellers, and Rex Kreuger have added an entirely new dimension to my woodworking.

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks. Glad I can help. I'll keep them coming. Let me know if you ever have any questions

[@church2k]

It's about the journey...how true that is! Awesome philosophy

[@WoodByWright]

+Isaac Iglesias thanks Isaac.

[@lamnghipham7634]

I was trapped in Power Tools Madness. A jointer (corded) was my first wanted. Now I don't think a corded one be faster than yours, at least in the case of hobbyist. I did invest in some hand tools, safer and quieter. Thanks.

[@WoodByWright]

right on. I do have a large corded version that is faster for a lot of course I just doing one or two is faster to do by hand

[@mvshabeer]

@@WoodByWright Coud you please show how to do this with hand power planer. When I take pass even at 0 setting, I cant get it square it's always slnated.

[@callumhodge3122]

Thanks james, i work mostly with power tools but i just don't have any room for a jointer, so thankyou for teaching us how to use a handplane

[@WoodByWright]

my pleasure. thanks man!

[@MarkyDesigns3000]

This is a good exercise to develop your skills, nicely done. Watching you do this, just makes me want to practice more. Since I do not have a jointer, I do have to use my planers to make my boards flat as possible.

[@WoodByWright]

Very true! thanks man!

[@rick91443]

I have a jointer-planer....but I also wish to do more hand plane work, even one day not using any electricity on a small project. Your videos always inspire me James...great stuff...cheers...rr

[@WoodByWright]

thanks you Richard! that is a great complement!

[@nmssis]

translucent even shavings....very addictive indeed. Thanks for the sensible tutorials....seriously!!

[@WoodByWright]

my pleasure thanks!

[@Thom4123]

I have a jointer (machine) but the more I use hand tools I tend to joint my edges with my 5 1/2 Wood River but need to follow up with my #4 to dial it in. I really need to get a #7 because I really do like the wood to tool control and feel, but I still joint the face grain on the jointer. Thank You James for all the great information.

[@WoodByWright]

sounds lie fun! thanks Thom!

[@EasyBreezyBeats]

awesome videos very helpful

[@ronniesolomon5235]

so awesome....such a great explanation!!!!!!!!!!!!! I cant wait to get a #7 now and try. Been having so difficultly getting my boards joined.

[@WoodByWright]

glad i could help. have fun man!

[@imortaldeadead]

WoW, fantastic class today. Lots of useful tip, that will help a lot of us out here👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@WoodByWright]

+theduck thanks man!

[@buildingsailboats4549]

Thank you I am learning a lot from your videos. Your explanation with words and video is very clear.

[@WoodByWright]

thank you that means a lot!

[@codybryant8684]

Thank you James for doing this video this helps me so much I am lucky enough to have a no.7 and now I know how to use it better. Keep up the great work

[@WoodByWright]

thanks Cody. Glad I could help!

[@VManzhely]

James, I can suggest an additional tip to keep in mind. A tiny gap (a really tiny one) in the middle is beneficial. Clamps will handle it. At the same time this tiny gap will compensate slightly the expansion and contraction process and the ends of the jointed boards will have less chance to “open” during this process. Cheers, Vitaly M.

[@WoodByWright]

+Vitaly Manzhely yup some people like to do that. I have never been a big fan as it introduces stores in the board. But the traditional reason for doing that is so you can do a panel glue up with just one clamp in the middle.

[@allenwc]

There are lots of wood worker KZbin’s out there. But, I really like that you explain things clearly. Are there any little technique tricks to keeping the plane square as you plane edges?

[@williamploog6944]

well done!

[@bothann]

Serendipitous, indeed. Thanks, James!

[@WoodByWright]

+Johann Botha thanks Johann.

[@astronemir]

Finally man, thanks so much. Learned a lot

[@tuomasjjrasanen]

Mr. Positive, it's always pleasure to watch your videos!

[@WoodByWright]

thanks man!

[@scannon90]

I’ll be trying this tomorrow, thanks for the help.

[@WoodByWright]

Sweet have fun!

[@Will-ij8jt]

Stunning, thank you

[@WoodByWright]

thanks again Will!

[@LegoMan-cz4mn]

That's realy pleasing to end up with totaly gappless joints, I made a table top on my internship with hand joined glue joints and some people couldn't even tell it was made out of multiple pieces

[@LegoMan-cz4mn]

I used their no.6 but the sole was twisted so I only used it for roughing work. I finished it up with my no.4

[@blackfender100]

Great tips James .as we all know Good planing is an art.We all need tips along the way while Trying to be smoothe.

[@WoodByWright]

+Joe Dov right on Joe. Thanks.

[@fredhystair5789]

Thx, that was great help.

[@aleksamaker8118]

Exactly what I needed thanks

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks! glad I could help!

[@MakeBrooklyn]

Great information as always! Thanks!

[@WoodByWright]

thanks man!

[@LJacyHenry]

I am a fan of yours your videos have helped me alot. I have to disagree though with this technique being better than jointing both at once. I have used both techniques and found much quicker to joint both at once.

[@WoodByWright]

thanks. That is what makes this sport great. everyone finds something different that works for them.

[@watermain48]

Great lesson James, thanks for sharing it.

[@WoodByWright]

thanks Bill!

[@Lemongrasspicker]

Nice! Love little tips and things like this

[@WoodByWright]

thanks man!

[@ignaciomarqueztorres]

Great video. Thanks

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks man.

[@BDM_PT]

Hi there from Portugal, Nice info :D Obrigado(Thanks)

[@WoodByWright]

+Blog das Madeiras thanks man.

[@MccaneWoodcrafts]

Great information! Still in love with that work bench :)

[@WoodByWright]

+Frank McCane thanks Frank. Hopfuly the plans will be out this week with the vise videos.

[@joedejesus6363]

Awesome Tutorial, Great Skill you have. Thank You

[@WoodByWright]

+Joe De Jesus thanks Joe.

[@SuppenHahnBier]

good explanation

[@WoodByWright]

+SuppenHahnBier thanks man.

[@meshugunner]

That was excellent!

[@WoodByWright]

thanks! glad I could help!

[@ClarkeJDuggan]

This demo is really going to help me out I think - thanks! The only plane I have now is a 50mm Japanese kanna style - it's working well although I haven't been able to get absolutely perfect and level cuts on an edge. I was thinking of going over the edge with a rigid flat sanding block to help smooth down any little imperfections. Should I expect this to be an effective strategy? Thanks again

[@WoodByWright]

usually the best way to flatten a plane is with another plane, but then there is the whole chicken and egg thing. but yes sand paper on a flat surface like glass will do it fine.

[@MyVinylRips]

Always inspiring!

[@WoodByWright]

thanks Koaus!

[@simonecamplani2430]

this one is great

[@WoodByWright]

+Simone Camplani thanks Simone.

[@hardnox6655]

Excellent demonstration James. Thank you. I have the identical Record plane and I love it. :)

[@WoodByWright]

this one is actually a Stanley. I paint all my restored tools the same blue. I like how it makes the shop look.

[@hardnox6655]

Haha, you fooled me. It's the same shade of blue. :)

[@VladMalik]

Good video. Actually shows the whole process uninterrupted.

[@WoodByWright]

Than I try to do those when I can.

[@latenightwoodworker3283]

Love the info on this. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@WoodByWright]

My pleaser man.

[@FredMcIntyre]

Thanks for the info James! 👍

[@WoodByWright]

my pleasure fred!

[@opasworkshop8373]

, great information James nice video.

[@WoodByWright]

+Opa's Workshop thanks Opa!

[@KagedCreations08XX]

Great instruction! Do you have a video that goes over what the plane numbers mean?

[@WoodByWright]

+Kaged Creations yes I do. I will have to look it up when I get home but it was something about what plane should I chose.

[@carlopieracci2828]

many thanks for this video! i'm not too bad at planing edges but i have a persistent problem: while hand-planing, i taper the edge itself. In other words the right part of my edge is lower than my left part..this way my edge comes out of square when i check it putting my square on the reference face. Assuming the blade is correclty set, what am i doing wrong?

[@WoodByWright]

+Carlo Pieracci that often comes from leaning over the board. This makes you put too much pressure on the far side of the joint. To confer act it. Move the plane as far as you can to the left. This will let the weight of the plane try to balance it out. Just putting more pressure on one side or the other will cause it to cit deeper on that side.

[@patrickbrett66]

Yay, finally I can play along with my Record no.7

[@WoodByWright]

+Patrick Brett lol one of these days I need to actually get a record plane.

[@patrickbrett66]

Wood By Wright If you can get an old'ish one then it should be a shade better than the same number in a Stanley. When I used to sell tools the woodworkers who preferred a treat would get a Record over a Stanley any day. To be brutally honest you wouldn't feel the difference with your eyes closed but I think the Record planes came with better irons at the time, they were known as Record-Marples back then.

[@johnmarkhatfield]

So i have tried to take a small twist out of a glued up. This video is an edge planing. Which is Simpler. My board is 10” by 16” or so. I have a very close chip breaker and it is set very low. It has been sharpened and i do have winding sticks. I plane across grain. Diagonal both ways and then longways. I suspect im making a hump, but i release pressure from the front at the end and try to do the opposite at the beginning. I also suspect a slight flex in material. It’s about 3/4 thick with a mix of hardwoods, cherry walnut, mulberry, maple. Still has a little rock. Ill keep trying, and i think no video can help at this point. Perhaps i should shim the flexing areas

[@WoodByWright]

You may want to send me an email with pictures. You can find the email in the about tab on my channel. if you are planning a board that's twisted you usually want to put shims underneath the corners that are lifting up That way when you push down with plane you're not flattening the board out. Then start by hitting just the high spots don't hit the low spots. Don't go all the way across the board just focus on the areas that need to have material moved get it down to roughly flat and then you can go all the way across the board to smooth it out.

[@morrelljw]

This has quickly become my go to channel. I’m a novice at best. Thank you for your easy to follow and informative videos. Any advice for jointing or joining breadboards to end grain on a farm table?

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks John. That means a lot. If you are referring to breadboard ends I do not think I have a video on this. Might have to change that.

[@michaelthompson5875]

Great video James! Very timely as I'm attempting to purchase a jointer plane myself. Question: were those blue Stanley's? I thought only Record used that color. Keep up the great work

[@WoodByWright]

thanks. any time I do a full strip down and restore of a plane for my personal use I paint it blue.

[@DanT10]

And for the "Record" I own a blue stanley. :)

[@frankolinde3747]

Have you heard of deliberately putting a very small valley in the center, and clamping flat? Another fine video btw.

[@WoodByWright]

+Frank Olinde yep. That is a great way to do it if you only have one clamp. I'm not a big fan of it as it introduces the stresses into the joint but a lot of other people really use it quite a bit

[@sapelesteve]

Nice work as usual James! Question: How does this compare to using a shooting board to accomplish the same thing? I guess that it would depend on the length of the board. Longer boards may be more difficult to work the edge via the shooting board method? Guess that I am answering my own question now? LOL Steve

[@WoodByWright]

+Sapele Steve LOL thanks Steve. I do not use a shooting board for long grain. I just use it for cleaning up the end-grain of boards. But some people do like to use it for that. I just don't know of anyone with a shooting board that is 4 foot long.

[@carmonacrafts1972]

Thank you for this video first of all second of all I like to make cutting boards so I always have to cut strips and join the strips together I always hold it up to the light and see if there's any gaps just like you did my big question is can I use a Stanley 80 scraper? I can't use a wood planer to save my life. I have a couple card scrapers but I don't know if the card scraper will get me those results

[@WoodByWright]

Sure. You just have to be carful because the short sole can take material out of the low spots. But it works the same.

[@perezhernandez1061]

Hello from Puerto Rico! I love your videos! They really really help me out a lot. I got a question. How do you set up a Jointer plane? Is it the same as a smoothing plane, or does it have a different set up?

[@WoodByWright]

For a jointer plane I set it up the same as a smoothing plane it's just not quite as fine as shaving. The mouth is a little bit bigger the chip breaker is back just a little bit more and the blade takes a slightly thicker shaving something around 5, 000ths of an inch or so

[@perezhernandez1061]

Thank you very much!

[@Gwynbuck]

Today I was asked if I could remove some white heat stains from a mahogany table which had been French polished. I didn't attempt it in case I messed it up. However, I did see somebody on the internet remove these stains from an identical table just using a dry piece of cloth and a dry iron on a high setting. Which method would you recommend?

[@WoodByWright]

Sorry I do not have much experience with that and would be the wrong person to ask. but I do know I would experiment first.

[@woodywoodworkerfuller9921]

Nice !!!!

[@WoodByWright]

thnaks!

[@shido641]

So ok cool I watched this video and was like ok time to join some boards. Got some boards started shaving off and umm yeah I just need to know how to make a board with all this shaving I'm sitting with...my board disappeared into thin air and some how I got a pile of shavings

[@WoodByWright]

Lol yup I have done that.

[@viznu]

When to add dowels for jointing boards? I am jointing 28 inches boards

[@WoodByWright]

in my book... never. dowels are for alinement and do not add strength. you might do it if it will be a project submerged in water, but for furniture the main reason for it is alinement.

[@oakenarm]

James, any advice on keeping the jointer square on the edge of the board? I am really struggling with not skewing the plane over one way or the other.

[@WoodByWright]

+oakenarm that is a skill that is learned over time. The only real top is to pinch the front as I was showing. This let's your finger slide along the side of the board and toy can start to feel if it tips one way or the other.

[@jonasdaverio9369]

Hi, I've been trying to join two 600mm (~24") boards together, so I used a no. 5 (it's a new plane from Clifton, so I'm pretty confident that it is flat, but I've heard that even new premium planes can get out of flat). I was getting a low spot on the end of the stroke (checked with the ruler of the Starett combination square, don't know how straight it is, but the error was probably much bigger than the accuracy of this ruler anyway), so I thought about putting a valley in the middle before putting a full pass. Since I was getting a low spot on the end, I thought about forgoing the last 2 inches. Then I checked it and it was perfectly flat, again at least according to my ruler. Then I took a full lenght shaving and then I checked it again, and the low spot was there again on the last 2 inches, about 1/4mm too low. I thought I just dropped the toe of the plane on the end, so I redid everything. Before the last full lenght stroke, everything was already about flat, so I was extra careful to entirely lift my left hand and only put weight on the back of the plane for the last 2-3 inches. Then I checked again and the low spot was there again... Do you have any idea?

[@WoodByWright]

It could be several things number one it could be that the soul is out of flat. You can check that by retracting the iron and then putting a straight edge along the plane. The toe mouth and heel should all touch but if there's a little bit of a gap other places it's not a big problem. If there is a gap on the board at the beginning and the end of the board it's usually technique just pushing harder at those spots but it could also be the soul of the plane. However if the gap is one shaving thickness that's well within the flexibility of wood so there could be other things at play.

[@jonasdaverio9369]

@@WoodByWrightThank you very much for your help! By checking the sole with my starett ruler (which do you think it's flat enough?), there is a little gap between the front and the mouth and between the mouth and the back, but as I understand it, it's normal (as long as the board is longer than the plane), and it's nowhere near the gap that I see on the board anyway. What I don't understand is why it's only at the end and not at the beginning. You mentionned technique but I really tried to put all the weight on the rear handle while approaching the end of the board. One user on a forum mention something, though: he thought I took too deep of a cut and that it could make the plane drop forwards, but I don't see why it should make any difference as long as there is sufficient weight on the rear of the plane.

[@WoodByWright]

@@jonasdaverio9369 okay. Sounds like the plane is good as long as it touches on the toe and the mouth and the heel that's all that matters. taking too deep of a cut can make a big difference. Usually that last pass I want it to be 2,000 of an inch or so. Usually I cut a belly out of the middle of the board and then I'll take one really fine shaving from end to end. If you can see a visible gap caused from a single plane stroke that usually means that you're taking too deep of a cut.

[@jonasdaverio9369]

@@WoodByWright OK, thank you very much, I'll try this next time. But could you tell me why that makes a difference? I can't understand for sure why the depth of the cut would mean more leaning forward. My hypothesis is that the increased resistance by the blade combined with the force you put on the handle which isn't aligned with the force caused by the above resistance create a torque (a pair of force which makes things rotate) that cause the plane to drop forward if not enough pressure is applied on the back of the plane. But for my hypothesis to be correct, that would mean this effect could be removed if one puts enough force on the back of the plane towards the bottom, regardless of the cutting depth (but that minimum force could become quite high, I don't know, or maybe unergonomic), but I'm not sure. Do you have any idea?

[@zakorkaz]

This video convinced me to buy a table top jointer. It costs the same for 1 jointer machine vs 6 separate hand planes.

[@WoodByWright]

Lol yup not for everyone!

[@lisabaker3843]

I’m jointing 8/4 cherry planks that are 16 inches wide so holding the two on top of each other is very hard. Can I do them side by side instead? Any other suggestions?

[@WoodByWright]

Sure. I usually do larger boards side by side.

[@lisabaker3843]

@@WoodByWright if the wood is 3-4 inches wide how do you deal with that? Also trying to figure out how to line them up since they’re so darned big

[@guyh.4553]

If using good hardwoods like oak, maple, or cherry, be sure to save those shavings to use in your smoker!

[@WoodByWright]

I could do a lot of smoking! LOL

[@rickhickman2730]

So if I am jointing only one edge, not for a glue up, how do I check to see where I need hit peaks and valleys? With a long steel rule? Or the long edge of my #7/8? And then go from there?

[@WoodByWright]

if you use a Stanley 7 or 8 they will only hit the high points so when they take a shaving evenly from one end to the other you are good.

[@rickhickman2730]

@@WoodByWright ok perfect, I'll try my number 8 when I need to joint an edge, thanks!

[@jimnmyra]

"Ooooohhh, pretty!! " :)

[@WoodByWright]

+JimMyra Wright thanks.

[@mysticjbyrd]

Question: How do you keep the board the same height when doing this? I am running into the issue that one side becomes taller than the other side.

[@WoodByWright]

Not sure what you mean. are you saying that you start with a 4" wide board and end up with one end 3 15/16" and the other end 3 7/8" of so the answer is just making sure you take consistent amounts from one end and then other taking very light passes is key. most of these were around 1 thou so they do not take off much. the other problem some people have is putting too much force on the far end of the board and you start to take off more on the end when you should not be even touching it. does that answer your questions?

[@mysticjbyrd]

well, atm I am doing the sides of 12x1 pine boards. I am trying to get a reference edge, and plane off 1/2", but I am ending up with an incline . I am also struggling to get both sides parallel. How do you make a reference edge? I ended up using spirit gauges. My shop isn't level, so I put a level into my vise, and then put my board on top of that and then used my combination square 's spirit gauge to try to level out the edge of the board. Don't touch the far end of the board? Not sure what you mean by that. Yah, I have been hogging it in there too hard probably.

[@WoodByWright]

+john handcock sorry not sure what you are talking about. I reference edge is nothing more then a strait edge. You can make that by jointing the edge as shown in the video. As to a level there is no reason to use a level for anything. Sorry not sure what you are talking about there. Feel free to send me an email that would be easier then answering the question on here.

[@luispinedasimons9551]

donde consigo esos stanley ?

[@thegreatestjose]

I've read that having a slight valley in the middle of the boards is good for a "spring joint" (I think that's what it's called) because when it's clamped in the center of the boards, the ends are pulled together even tighter. Any truth to this, in your experience?

[@WoodByWright]

some people really like that way you do not over tighten the clamp you just keep clamping tell the center closes. also, it is great when you only have one clamp for a panel. that said I do not do it much as it introduces stresses tot eh project.

[@thegreatestjose]

Wood By Wright thanks for the perspective! I'll have to try both methods, and I am lucky to have a few large pipe clamps to test it or with.

[@cobberpete1]

I'm side by side man. I have my No#6.. Have you ever come across an old graffiti tag.. Kilroy was here?? If not.. look it up. halfway through the video, you fit the profile. :) I'm showing my age ;0

[@WoodByWright]

+Peter Compton lol thanks. I was thinking more like Wilson.

[@landonmarx4753]

Maybe you should say joiner plane so you have that t for acrost the boards...😛😂😂 thanks for the vids.

[@WoodByWright]

LOL

[@Ryan-ev2bd]

Hey what brand are those blue planes?

[@WoodByWright]

They are Stanley hand planes. If I restore a plane for my own personal use and have to strip the japaning I paint it in my shop blue because it makes me smile.

[@Ryan-ev2bd]

@@WoodByWright sweet thanks!

[@stuffmorestuff9588]

Table saw works too

[@WoodByWright]

LOL got two of those. don't use them much!

[@stuffmorestuff9588]

@@WoodByWright really I know there not great but I just take 3/4 inch pipe clamps and pull them tight and it always works

[@latenightwoodworker3283]

Have you ever made a wooden jointer similar to a #7 or #8?

[@WoodByWright]

I haven't. But I will be making a jack plane for this week's video. It is on my list but we will see when I have time for it.

[@latenightwoodworker3283]

Looking forward to it. I have to become a patreon. Going to check out how now!

[@WoodByWright]

thanks man!

[@carbonitegamorrean8368]

Gawsh I can't wait to have a till full of planes I can put to use. So dang pricey and I'd like to make some but don't have those tools either. Disabled w/o income I wouldn't wish on anyone, to add having too unwillingly start over with out anything that didn't fit in a small SUV.

[@carbonitegamorrean8368]

sorry about that,. it gets overwhelming more than not

[@WoodByWright]

I bet it does not a fun time!

[@carbonitegamorrean8368]

No,very depressing.. I often thought about the "start over again" thing in the past, the far past. But I do believe I was thinking with the means of renewal too,,,,,,,,than it would be fun.. Bless you J, count your blessings & happinesses.

[@Jamessmith-ks8qx]

1/16th gap?? Close enough. Glue and sawdust time

[@WoodByWright]

+James smith lol.

[@23fields]

notice people show how to joint short boards no help for 12 ft tables

[@WoodByWright]

Here you go. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmfHl4Z9ocScb68 they don't get much bigger then that. it is the same thing just on a larger surface.

[@dastrio8435]

I can't, i'm struggling...

[@WoodByWright]

I have a live video on the second channel where I look at several other methods. Otherwise send me an email and I would be glad to help.

[@faramund9865]

Very Indo European.

[@isaacleija3726]

Must be doin something wrong, doesn’t work for me lol