How to level sagging floor in old house using shims, not floor leveler, in home renovation

[@Housebarons]

We can not stress enough the VALUE of having a laser level when doing this kind of work (or even checking the condition of the floors )! If you are interested, check out the link : DEWALT Line Laser, Self-Leveling, Red, 3-Beam (DW089K) by Dewalt amzn.to/3xNbY3K It works well but this is NOT the most affordable version. We actually have 3 different brands and they ALL work great. If you are looking for more affordable options, check out the video description or our other floor leveling videos in the following playlist : kzbin.info/aero/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6 Just FYI. These Amazon links are affiliate links. They are free for you to use AND Amazon will pay us a small commission if you use them - Many thanks if you do. It helps us keep making videos!

[@JtotheRizzo]

I did this exact same procedure in my 100+ yr old house. A few thought/suggestions if I may: 1. If you have asbestos, it should be removed prior to doing this. If you cover it up, someone else down the line may renovate this house and may end up ripping out the floor and unknowingly disturbing the asbestos. 2. ALWAYS GLUE AND SCREW. Don't use nails. 3. Try to use at least 5/8" thick plywood (3/4" is best) as your top subfloor to maximize strength and minimize bouncy spots. 4. To shim, pick up a few sheets of 1/4" Luan, 1/2", 3/8" and 5/8" plywood. For really bad floors, rip down 2x4 to get desired height. Also pick up wide roofing shims for precision leveling. 5. There should be no more than 8-10" between the shims to prevent that bouncy feeling in areas where the shims are too far apart. If you use 3/4" plywood for subfloor, you can get away with 12" apart.

[@mimi101]

How can you find out if you have asbestos? My house was built in 1920, records of the property are spotty...

[@Graham94]

@@mimi101 It's actually not supposed to be a risk unless you work with it everyday in large amounts. The guy who did my survey told me and wasn't one bit bothered by it??

[@mimi101]

@@Graham94 Oh good! Thanks Graham!

[@lukewebb9692]

You don't have to remove the asbestos because of the next person who will move in to it. And if they are worried they can get a proffessional team in to remove it. :)

[@HumbuckerBob02]

J R, This is great info! For my floor joist, I decided to go with RV shims that were hard wood and 4"x9" for my crawlspace work. this way I could rip down to what ever the situation required and help with any future rot. I'll be working the rest of the project from above and will be using your method. Appreciate your input!

[@gregwood8141]

Great idea! Was just about to rip up my entire floor but I think you've saved me from a massive headache. Thanks from the UK

[@Housebarons]

Glad it helped! And thx for letting us know where you are DIYing 😃 - always interesting and appreciated! Cheers!

[@chineseful]

How did you get in with this idea, I am having the same issue as we speak and thinking of doing this, my floors are terrible in the house

[@bestguy8100]

I leveled my uneven basement floor with OSB boards, shims and concrete screws. Your video was really helpful. Thank you very much.

[@Housebarons]

Hey best…, Way to go! Thx for watching!

[@sozaito]

I was planning to do this but started to doubt myself, so it's nice to see confirmation that it will work. You have no idea how you've eased my anxiety. Thank you!

[@Housebarons]

Thx for watching!

[@mariaboice7958]

This video was just the solution I needed. I have a sloping cement floor we are renovating and putting in new carpet. Thank you so much, I really didn’t want to try self-leveling compound so this looks like a good option.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Maria, Sounds good. Thx for watching!

[@cindywatkins35]

My sweetheart adjusted some posts under the floor in the crawl space and added some shims to level the floor. Then he used plywood over the subfloor. You need plywood not OSB if you are going to nail down hardwood. Then he nailed down reclaimed red oak with nails and a hammer which we had cleaned and removed nails and staples. Sweetheart then sanded it and used two coats of satin sealer. Beautiful oak floors now. They're fantastic. He did a wonderful job.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Cindy, Perfect! Thx for watching!

[@snaubdca7yebf]

you must be 90 years old calling your partner 'my sweetheart' without cringing

[@heatherroydiy]

I hope your husband reads this, how sweet you are and how you have praised him. I love how speak of your Sweetheart! My Hubby is about to do ours! Thank goodness for those awesome husbands.

[@elvillian]

OMG, this is response to my prayers. THANK YOU!!!!!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Elena, Awesome. Hope it helps. Thx for watching!

[@dracula1980]

I know right away this is quality job when I see oatmeal plywood being used.

[@samjones3173]

I'm just getting into the remodeling the whole deal and mainly you guys do tremendous good work and I'm just starting and I already made my 10,000 dollar Mark already just just from watching videos I'm doing jobs I thank you guys have a blessed day man

[@Housebarons]

Awesome! Thank you! Keep up the good work!

[@vincentmonet6172]

Great solution. Cheers chaps. Now to sort my 1830 floor out!

[@Housebarons]

Hey vince.., Glad it helped! 1830’s ??! Woohoo - sounds interesting! But worth saving that history! Thx for watching!

[@jesserosenbloom1311]

This video helped me more than any other Ive watched in last couple months. so much appreciated. Thought I was stuck with my sloped floors. will be attempting this today. Im going to put 3/4 cdx ply down as subfloor, then 1/2 backerboard and tile on top. feels like that should be strong enough. thank you again guys!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jesse, Nice - happy projecting! Thx for watching!

[@brianluquis7578]

I'd avoid the tile. Your floors are sloping for a reason. tile is fairly heavy and will most likely start sloping again in 5 years, cracking said tile. At worse, catastrophic floor failure where your carrier beam and strings literally snap. I realize your comment is 10 months old but just thought I'd offer my 2 cents. Best of luck

[@ineedhoez]

​@@brianluquis7578new comer.... i appreciate the advice.

[@timothykentlawson9822]

I KNEW that there was a way to compensate for an unlevel floor. Thank you for sharing! 👍

[@Housebarons]

Hey Timothy, Thx for watching!

[@synovia421]

Great video. This is exactly what I thought I could do in my head. Nice to see a visual of it! 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽

[@Housebarons]

Hey Synovia, Glad you found this helpful! I hope your project goes well - Thx for watching!

[@Liv2Pnt]

Omg! I love you!! One of my upstairs bedrooms has a dip in the middle if the floor, and I've been trying to find ways to fix it without major upheaval. This is the best!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Make…, Thanks so much! Hope it works for you and thx for watching!

[@richricha180]

Can you do this on top of hardwood floors?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Rich, Seems like it would work - though covering hardwood is sad. Just know that you want to address the cause of the sag ( stop it from sagging further ) before doing cosmetic changes. Thx for watching!

[@SeaTrekkie88]

This will be a huge help for me. I have a very wonky floor.

[@Housebarons]

Hi Bri, awesome, hope this helps, let us know how it goes!

[@kashfortheking]

This is a great idea. No way this would fail if the directions are followed. A+ for this one 👍🏾👍🏾

[@Housebarons]

Hey Kash.., Glad you think so! Thx for watching!

[@john_blues]

Thanks for this. I'm having a house rehabbed and my carpenter just did this and I freaked out a little. lol. His explanation was the same as yours. I'm more at ease now. Thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hey John, It’s not the perfect solution. But sometimes perfect can be the enemy of the good…enough. Here’s a recent video that gives some perspective… kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5m8mZdsi5ahq7M Thx for watching!

[@john_blues]

@@Housebarons Thanks. My house is 95 years old so this video definitely helped.

[@sedona3player]

I need to do this in my tiny upstairs converted attic eventually. It seemed daunting and I was estimating $50-100,000 to hire someone to do it (prices are crazy where I live). You made it seem way easier and maybe even possible to do it myself with my partner. Thank you.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Sedona…, Great. Thx for watching!

[@carolyncrews3658]

I am my own diy and my grandmothers bedroom floor is uneven and I need to put down a new floor. Your video is the Best! Thank You so much.

[@Housebarons]

Glad it was helpful! Remember to fix the cause of the sag 1st… to stop future sag. Otherwise it’s only a super temporary cover-up. Thx for watching!

[@TK-setophaga]

Thanks. I used a laser level on the high spot an used the plywood spacers to fill gaps from 1/8 to 1 inch. Those LVP floors are very unforgiving so the subfloor is critical. Thanks for the idea.

[@Housebarons]

Hey T K, Very good! Glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching!

[@sincerely-b]

Been trying to redo the flooring in my house with lvp amd had to remove everything because the floor wasn't straight. Unforgiving is right. Going to straighten the whole floor out and relay.

[@MannyFacts]

Thanks for the video! My mother in law hired a guy to do her floor in her room, when he was done the floor was 2 inches higher than the hall way 😐 didn’t use shims

[@Housebarons]

Oh wow! Thx for watching!

[@SGB1977]

Thanks for the video. One of our bedrooms is like walking in a funhouse.

[@Housebarons]

Hey DS, Thx for watching!

[@tricatfilms6136]

I really want to do this rather than ripping out the old floor/subfloor then sistering to joists with HEAVY 2x6s or what not, but the only PROBLEM is afterwards my floor is going to be about 1" taller than the two adjoining rooms that are level with decent floors. ANY IDEAS??

[@Housebarons]

Ripping up old floor or raising / resupporting the floor from underneath are the only ways I know to address the issues. We shimmed because supporting from underneath was not cost effective. But yes, it raised all the floors on the second level by an inch. It can be a dilemma. Thx for watching!

[@lancebland1308]

Outstanding!! Best video I have watched

[@richrich685]

This is a huge help for me as I get ready to redo the flooring in my kitchen. Thanks guys!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Rich, Thx for watching!

[@wassayali2341]

did you have to remove kitchen cabinet frames/appliances for this?

[@abduljalilepps8518]

What length of screws to use to screw on half inch plywood and shims through wooden floor

[@Housebarons]

Measure the thickness of board, plus the gap plus another 3/4 to 1 inch into the sub floor.

[@problemsulfer]

Would you need a vapor barrier underneath the osb if this was in coastal Georgia over a crawl space?

[@Housebarons]

Hey prob…, Hmmm. I typically would only do that if it were a slab. Your crawl should vent - otherwise it would be a mold pit underneath…. I would however try and find WHY the sag is happening… if it’s a crawl, you can probably get simple access to it to see. You might be able to support it and stop future sag. Thx for watching.

[@mrp7943]

Nice job. I use this exact technique in my house before except that I use 8 ins squares one foot apart with glue and screws as was done here. However, the square cannot give you a leve floor so I use a laser and everything came out really good.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Mr.., Nice tip!! Thx for watching!

[@Snipely]

Could you use purlins for this instead? And just shim those in spots to make them level..

[@Housebarons]

Hey Snipely, Sure. Just have to taper them as our floor was a bit wavy. Thx for watching!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Snipely, Sure. Just have to taper them as our floor was a bit wavy. Thx for watching!

[@stykstykman7354]

What do you do with the ceiling afterwards because if the floor is level the ceiling is not gonna be level

[@Housebarons]

In our case, the floor was out of level an inch or so. You can feel it walking, but. It visually. The ceiling, less so. Rather than visual imperfections, I would 1st want to make sure the structural issues should be addressed by a structural engineer. Hope that helps.

[@familyvideos9587]

Hello, great video! Just a few questions: 1) what is the maximum distance in between shims in order for the plywood not to noticeably flex once you step on the final flooring and place your weight on the area right on top of the gaps? 2) what is the recommended thickness of OSB or plywood? 3) are you screwing the plywood into the shims?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Family, 1) 12-16 inches - depends on the thickness of the plywood. 2) 3/4-1 inch tongue and groove. 3) yes - through the shims into the floor w/ glue.

[@stevebausch72]

Regarding spacing, 3/4" subfloor allows 24 inches on center (along strength axis). You want the shims over the existing joists, and the shims are wider than joists (no problem in that axis (lengthwise) Regarding weaker axis (48 inch width), 5 shims 6 inches square, spaced out would span 2 1/2 feet, side by side. Space them out with roughly 5 inch gaps to cover 4 feet. Haven't found any information about derate for the week axis, so I'm using 50 percent of rated span (12 inch centers). Seems pretty solid. Regarding moisture, I laid down poly sheet. And the subfloor is DryMax, the OSB guaranteed not to swell if left out in weather for 500 days. I'm not using squares, I'm using triangles; easier to level a tripod than a table.

[@BritQuay]

Great video. Question - My 20' room dips 1.5 inches at the centre, so some 1' square shims only bear along one edge due to the "hill." Thought of adding thin strips underneath the low edge to level the shims but this would leave some void area. Also considered using cedar shakes to level the plywood shims. Suggestions?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Brit…. We did have voids/ spacing of about 1 foot between shims. Our floor thickness was 3/4 to 1 inch so that we would not get a lot of deflection over the gaps. We also have used different thicknesses of plywood and then made up the difference with floor leveler. The risk is, the more floor leveler, the greater the weight because it is concrete. So , after talking to a structural engineer, we were sure to add more support in the basement . Here is that video : How to use floor leveler on wood subfloor to fill low spots before laying new flooring kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXO3gWepiN2Fec0 Hope that helps..

[@markshields9284]

thicker bead of liquid nails on the lower side of the shim if it is dramatic, OW just put a blob in the middle of the shim and then don't walk on it for a day or two, just let the gently lowered flat but heavy plywood self level in low area of concern.

[@anthonykulacz9654]

Thanks for the great video. I do have a few questions. 1) If I use floor leveler instead of shims, do you still recommend using plywood or can the vinyl plank go right over the floor leveler? 2) what is the maximum distance in between shims in order for the plywood not to noticeably flex once you step on the final flooring and place your weight on the area right on top of the gaps 3) what is the recommended thickness of plywood 4) are you screwing the plywood into the shims?

[@FisherCatProductions]

1. Read mfg directions for both your planks and leveler. Normally VP can go right over floor leveler (but you MUST use the plank mfg approved padding under the planks) 2. Maximum OPEN AIR space between shims (not necessarily to the center of the shim pile of you are using large, square shims) is same as for joists--normally 14.5" (for 16" on center joists). You could go less (12"), but I would not go more. 3. Use subfloor mfg or code recommendation for the equivalent joist spacing for the thickness of subfloor you are going to use--normally no less than 3/4" T&G. (Remember, since you are not using joists, you are concerned about the maximum UNSUPPORTED SPACE between shim piles.) Also check plank mfg specs for subfloor, if any. 4. Unh...yes. If you screw between the shims you will bow the plywood. If you can hit joists, good. But make sure you are at least starting to penetrate completely through the original flooring for max holding power. My 2c.

[@interestingcomments5178]

Could I do this on bottom floor over crawl space? Then drill holes in the bottom layer subfloor so it’s gets ventilation?

[@johnjenney7053]

I get doing this to level off finished flooring, but it still leaves the problem of a sagged overspanned step notched 24” on center 2”x 8” joist in an old home. If you did this correctly an easier way would be to go under the house add coupke footings and a beam Jack up the whole floor to be closer to level then 3 bags thin layer self leveler. That way you correct the issue not a cosmetic band aid. If cement floor might consider poly foam injection first then some leveler.

[@Housebarons]

Thx for the input!

[@kori_88]

Does it matter how you lay the subfloor down since it’s not technically structural? Basically just click it together the best way it fits the room? I have uneven floors in every room of my house. I just tackled the worst room which is 10x10 and poured levelling compound all over it. I regret it, I don’t think the structure is strong enough for it and it still has a slight slope. Will follow a method like this for the rest of the place.

[@Housebarons]

Hey K B, We were careful on the spacing so that the floor would not bow when walked on - shims every 12-16 inches and subfloor - tongue and groove plywood. thx for watching!

[@OGCJ10]

How did it work out for you?

[@Itzfrida]

Great video man I was about to replace my whole floor saved me time and cash thanks!!!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Antoine, Glad to hear it! Thx for watching!

[@donnakruse61]

Awesome our floor is sagging and undeveloped in spots, think this will be the fix we are looking for! Thanks

[@Housebarons]

Hey Donna…, Great. Just make sure you first diagnose WHY you floor is sagging. A defect in the structure can be hurt by extra weight. We always like to fix the cause before addressing the symptom. Thx for watching!

[@johnwagner8465]

Great video...I have an old house over 123 years old...the old section has the trees for floor joists...sags in the middle..has the old wide pine planks and over that is hardwood...I want to put a floating floor on it..do you think your shim method would work...thanks for making taking the time to make the video..gives me alittle hope..I don't want carpeting

[@stonepointdrivingschool2044]

Thanks, this is what I need - pier and beam, also can't put on the weight of the self-leveler (plus it's messy and wet) I prefer wood shims.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Stonepoint..., That is why we used shims as well - leveler is heavy! Thx for watching!

[@sherrymckay7]

How do you run it through the hallway to the stairs without transitioning

[@DogWaterChamp]

Is that plywood or "underlayment?" what length level do you recommend?

[@Housebarons]

Underlayment typically has “ tongue and groove “ edges that help with alignment. Probably it is osb / stranded board - just make it is labeled as underlayment around 5/8’s or 3/4 thick so it is more stable. I like a 6 ft level… but for this kind of work , you can’t be a laser level as it will be more accurate over a whole room. Thx for watching!

[@mr.nathan4972]

Space between spacers?

[@prizefighter7648]

Is it ok to drill all of those screws into the asbestos tiles underneath the new plywood? Once those tiles have been drilled into shouldn’t they be removed from the house so the fibres don’t escape into the air?

[@Housebarons]

Hey prize, It seemed incapsulated to us. The screws drill down and don’t bring material up unless you strip the screws. Thx for watching!

[@studio_lussaint]

I have a slanting floor in my 1860s cottage, where the brick walls are set on the ground and basically seperate from the floor. Would it be better to apply this method or get someone in to restump?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Duck, The method in this video is more last resort. If you can get into a basement or crawl space and address the slanting condition of the floors that way ( be presupposing or jacking) it’s far better long term. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@hoptoad]

Thanks for this tutorial - exactly what I've been considering. Question - I'm doing this *on top* of an exisitng hardwood floor (an old sagging railroad apartment) - and then carpet or vinyl on top of the hardwood. The difference between corners of the 15'x8' room is significant - (from high point first) [0", .5", 2.25", 1.75"]. I plan on using 3/4" plywood and 12" square shims spaced with 12" air gaps between each shim pile, then drilling the plywood into each shim pile at those intervals. The issue is that I need to protect the hardwood floor below (it's not in fantastic shape, but I can't go screwing wood screws into it as I am a renter). I'm wondering if you could recommend a wood-friendly adhesive - like vinyl or silicone? Just to keep the shim piles stuck enough to the underlying wood. I don't imagine they will be drifiting or scooting around a lot as the whole setup will be filling the entire floor area and everything should be snug, but it seems risky to not fasten the shims to the original floor in any way. Thanks in advance for any recommendations!

[@Housebarons]

Hey hop, Sounds similar to what we did. Could you not lay down the shims. Then put a dab of liquid nails on top of the shim. Then lay plywood on the shims.? The shims would be glued to the bottom of the plywood but not the floor. Maybe put flooring paper between shim and floor if you were worried about marking up the floor. Anyway, once the glue dries, the shim won’t move because the plywood floor won’t move. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@hoptoad]

@@Housebarons Hey thanks for the quick reply! I think you are right - no adhesive between the lower floor and shim interface, just liquid nails + shallow woodscrew between the plywood and shim. just need to figure out what to put on top of the plywood that doesn't look terrible 😅😅

[@hoptoad]

@@Housebarons one more question! (haha sorry) - the floor is *quite* crooked, so much so that there is a quarter inch drop just across one stack of 12" shims - what would you say is the tolerance at which to ignore the gab given the flex properties of 5/8" OSB? I can't find plywood under 1/4" and would need to star doing partial (quarter width) shims across these stacks

[@paulmonk7820]

Appreciate you sharing this with us. May I suggest using a wireless lapel mike to eliminate the echo caused by the empty room?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Paul, Thx. Yes. We were without that day. But good advice. Thx for watching!

[@agentcero4364]

Can you still do this if the wood is old, unleveled and unstable? Also the wood has some holes in the floor

[@lexhemart]

Hi- I recently bought a 123 year old small one story cottage. The bathroom floor is sloping downward in an area and the kitchen floor as well. Five tiles cracked under the toilet- I originally thought maybe someone dropped something heavy in that area but the toilet is uneven as well. Should extra support be put in those two areas under it in the very strange basement? It’s strange because half is cement flooring and half dirt- then add the shims and sheets of plywood (OSB)? Thanks for the informative video!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Lex.., If the subfloor can be seen from the basement, I would add extra support if the see the subfloor deforming or any beam sags. Hopefully that can be addressed from underneath! We once’s lived in a 95 yr old house which had a similar basement floor. I feel your pain 😃 Thx for watching!

[@lexhemart]

@@Housebarons thank you! I’ll let you know how it goes!!

[@joorange3]

Hello would half inch plywood be sufficient?

[@Housebarons]

It will flex depending on how far apart your shims are. Thinner is not better when it comes to strength.

[@jean-francoisbernier5250]

Thx for this video. I have 2 questions if I may : 1) isn't the "air space" under the plywood making the finished structure noisy to impact/sounds (walking, moving chairs, voices, TV, etc...). I'm concerned with soundproofing... If that is the case, would a layer of soundproofing material be indicated under the plywood and on top of it ? 2) few shots of the video show some deflection when you guys walk on the plywood . Is it because it has not been screwed down yet ?? I'm asking because I'm told you need 1 1/4 structural material to avoid deflection on tiles... thx

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jean…, There is a space but this is essentially a floor over a floor which also has a space in between it and the ceiling below. Still you could add additional sound proofing material if you want to be sure. 2) deflection - yes. We still have to add another 3/8 to 1/2 finished floor which will add more stiffness. We are not doing tile on this floor. You are correct / tile subfloor MUST be thicker to keep your grout lines from cracking! Thx for watching!

[@Deeban7]

Hi! This might be a silly question, but surely where you place the shims on slanted parts of the floor it won’t be level? Won’t they just follow the slope of the floor? Do you have to cut the shims and angles? Thanks!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Dan, Yes - the shims are different thickness of wood stacked on top of each other till they get to the needed height for all of them to form a level surface. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@RiverMermaidBrie]

So should I remove the old long one inch wood plank flooring to level out the floor/add some form of insulation? I would have had contractors do this but nobody wants to do it this way they want to use a compound to level it out which is too much weight to add onto the floors for 130 year old house

[@Housebarons]

Hey The mom…, I’m with you on not wanting to add extra weight w/ leveler. You could do as you say - a good way to also add insulation if there is none. You may also find issues you can fix from above once you can see underneath. Thx for watching!

[@si06ka]

Great job. Simple solution for a huge problem

[@Housebarons]

Hey si06ka, Thx for letting us know and thx for watching!

[@snackcakeman]

I have a condo in which the floors are sloped 4” from front to back. Very noticeable 3/4 of the way in. Subfloor is concrete. Could your video solution work for me?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Donald, It might just work. But I would definitely want to know the cause. You want to rule out a more serious structural issue first. You can consult a structural engineer. Thx for watching!

[@gateslattes4686]

Hi, can u use 1/2 inch plywood? Would it bend ? How big are your squares? Thanks and great video

[@Housebarons]

Hey gates… 1/2 inch for the subfloor ? Yes that’s thin so you’d probably feel some deflection. You’d have to have your supporting squares / shims closer. You could lay out a single sheet of ply wood with shims under it, walk on it and see how much it sags. Our square shims were about 12x12 inches. Thx for watching!

[@karimshaban8050]

Is there really enough support in between the pads? Does it make sense to add supports of some sort (I'm thinking maybe some 16g-steel flat strap ties - they're like $3 each for 3 foot long ones).

[@Housebarons]

Hey kar…, Floor joist are typically spaced 12 inches apart. So keeping the distance within that should provide enough stability. Thx for watching!

[@bjj21]

I wanted to try this on a job I'm on right now. Since I'm putting in hardwood flooring and don't want to use concrete leveler, but, I notice it sag when you step on areas that aren't shimmed. This seems like a bad idea now. I'm planning on running the shims like this, but fill the middle the while way under each row of screws. Did you guys use multiple different thickness of ply?

[@Housebarons]

Not in this room , but in this other video … How to use floor leveler on wood subfloor to fill low spots before laying new flooring kzbin.info/www/bejne/rXO3gWepiN2Fec0 …..after we raised and resupported the floor, we used different thickness of plywood to fill larger gaps and then spread a thin coat of floor leveler before installing solid hardwood…. How To Install A Hardwood Floor | Tips For Hardwood Floor Installation kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmeUnmulpK6tetk In all, it worked great. Hope that helps!

[@Graham94]

hi, would a jigsaw be best to cut the wood in smaller pieces?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Graham, That’s a great idea. Thx for watching!

[@mattjussup9695]

For the shims, you used plywood as a base and then added cedar shakes until you found level?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Matt.., Just plywood of different thicknesses. Thx for watching!

[@loulou9411]

Can this be done to an existing hardwood floor .! I plan to lay LVP but didn’t want the hassle of removing the existing floor to level it out and I don’t want the extra work from jacking up the floors . I’ve asked several people and jacking up the floor seems to be the most popular choice . Any help / info would be greatly appreciated

[@Housebarons]

Hey Lou…, Yes. This idea can work. Remember you need a strong subfloor to support the lvl plank. Jacking up the floor is certainly doable and can yield great results. But everyone’s situation is different. Here is a video where we list 3 different options. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y5m8mZdsi5ahq7M Maybe they can help you think about your floors. Here is our playlist for our floor leveling work. kzbin.info/aero/PLExVGissIl-H-npOe7v64K2y6IIOQvHk6 If you have any questions be sure and create a NEW comment so it will pop up for me to see. Thx for watching!

[@Fidel-tk5rq]

Hi there, Thanks for sharing. I'm currently facing same problem in my kitchen which is smaller (2.5m x 2m) and was wondering if I can use Extruded Polystyrene pads as shims instead of plywood pads? Your prompt reply is much appreciated!

[@Housebarons]

Hi, Never done that. I would want to test or find data about compressibility over time - will weight of the floor covering and furniture, people walking on it cause it to get smaller over time??? Hope that gives you food for thought. Thx for watching!

[@alwatts4108]

what size are the shims you cut for leveling the floor ?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Al, 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick and stacked as needed. - 12”x12”

[@VBitMicro]

Just seen this! Gave me an idea on how to do my floors!

[@dougwheeler9369]

Won’t the floor be a little spongy in between the spacers you used?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Doug, Most floor joists are 12 inch on center. Another factor is thickness of sub-flooring and flooring. That all can add stiffness if thick enough. Good to be aware of. Thx for pointing out that point and for watching!

[@meeamea]

Could you put the shims directly ontop of the joists? We have a very wavy floor, with up to a 2 inch dip, paired with a low ceiling (7.3 inches). I'm not keen on losing more height for a double subfloor, so if we tore up the original subfloor, can the shims be applied directly to the boards underneath?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Megan, Yes. If you tear up the floor. Or… once you remove the old floor… You could nail maybe 2x6’s next to ( side by side) the original floor joists ( called sistering) except allow the new 2x6’s to sit at level just above the height of the joists. Hope that helps! Thx for watching.

[@meeamea]

@@Housebarons Thanks for the response! =)

[@kuhki5208]

Won't the original floor continue 5o sag over time bringing the "new floor" with it? I don't think you should hack a foundation.

[@Housebarons]

Hey kuhki, This floor got there over 100 yrs. So eventually, decades from now it may need to be rebuilt but that seems not to be cost effective for this situation. Thx for watching!

[@rliy001]

Some say the guys are still leveling this floor which keeps sagging each year. After laying layer after layer of floor boards on top of each other, the hight of the room is now height of a 2 year old toddler, few more levelings and the entire room should be sealed with floorboards to the ceiling

[@FormidableOne]

Hey guys what if you dont screw down the wood? Would that be ok? If you used "no more nails" so that it doesnt squeek later on down the line

[@Housebarons]

Sounds like that would work as well! Thx for watching!

[@BreaTheBrat]

This seems like a fine temporary solution but I feel like it will not last too long without sagging between those shim gaps.

[@lanceweinert2590]

Unlikely. That OSB is normally installed over 16 on the center joist and is fine.

[@bobcat3102]

Great video... Thanks from Canada.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Bob, Thanks much for the kind words AND thx for letting us know where you are viewing from. We are always curious. Thx for watching!

[@gilboston20033]

Good job, I used to level surface where requires a precision levelness using shim as thin as 0.001". If you can't find the right combination of shims, use a planer to get the right thickness.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Gil, That is some crazy precision! Thx for the tips! And thx for watching!

[@jspate61]

Would you consider using this leveling method if you were going to install tile on top, or would it simply flex too much?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jeff, Yes, flex would be an issue. I think you need something like 1.25 inches solid subfloor for tile. Thx for watching.

[@acaflooring]

@@Housebarons or self leveler

[@JaggedEdgeJava]

can moisture build up in the gap between the shims and subfloor?

[@Housebarons]

Theoretically - but you should not have moisture there normally the 1st place.

[@nicviv1165]

so the screws are removed from the shims prior to install of the subfloor ply? Sorry can you clarify?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Nic, No need. We just left the screws. We screwed the shims down after glueing them. Then laid the subfloor. The goal was to keep them from moving when we were in process of laying subfloor on top.

[@itsgabegutierrez]

Does this continue throughout this floor level (including bathrooms, closets, etc) or is there a transition at the door? Seems like it would be a pretty high transition and trip hazard.

[@Housebarons]

Hey its…, We did the entire 2nd floor with this additional plywood layer. You could do a single room with a transition strip … All depends on your particular situation. Thx for watching!

[@ookoro]

Can I use this method under a washing machine to level out the floor or would the vibration make it unsuitable?

[@Housebarons]

Hey mama, Just a guess, but I think it should work fine. Maybe add some extra support under washing machine to be safe. Thx for watching!

[@tmise50]

If this was a downstairs room with no asbestos tiles or glue, would you have used a floor leveling compound or have done it this same way? Kitchen floor in my 75 year old house has about a 2 inch slope. I’ve already removed a section of subfloor to replace some rotted seal plate and rim joist (about a 4 foot section). Just want to level the floor the most economical way.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Terry, Because of the weight of the leveler, i think it is better to fill in some of the gap with plywood if you can't jack up the floor. You could use all floor leveler - but it is so heavy, I'm not a fan of that route.. Your call.

[@tmise50]

@@Housebarons thanks, I’m going to try your way

[@nobofinance8046]

What did they use for the shims? Lauan?

[@Housebarons]

Hey nobo, We used different thickness of plywood. Not luan. Thx for watching!

[@timavery3912]

Bookmarked. This is brilliant!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Tim, Cool deal. Thx for watching!

[@alwatts4108]

what size are the plywood you cut ?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Al…, 12”x12 inch - 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick.

[@nicviv1165]

Whag size screws were used and what kind of glue?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Nic, Screws depend on shim thickness. Enough to get through wood and into the existing floor another 3/4 inch - just to hold it while glue sets up. Glue - liquid nail. Thx for watching!u

[@nicviv1165]

@@Housebarons so the screws are removed from the shims prior to install of the subfloor ply? Sorry can you clarify?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Nic, No need to remove the screws.

[@Laundrybags]

Could you please describe how you finish around door? That would be a great help. Thank you.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jin, Whether you are talking about the subfloor ( like what we laid down in this video ) or the finish flooring, they are similar. We had to undercut the molding ( the door jamb, and the door molding ) and slide the subfloor wood under it so it looks seamless. You can see how we did this very thing near the end of this video we made on finishing a floor. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/nH_Vk4BvqMmgoMk It’s fine to undercut the molding and jamb because all of that is hanging on the 2x4 framing core structure of the wall. AND as you raise the floor, the door may no longer fit, so you may need to trim off the bottom of the door. Hope that helps. Feel free to let me know if something still is unclear. Thx for watching!

[@michelemckune3809]

Did you have to make the shims?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Michele, Yes. Just cut up plywood sheets. Thx for watching!

[@bradhollman4221]

What are the shims made from? Did you make the shims or get them prepare? Thank You

[@Housebarons]

Hey Brad, We made the shims from different thicknesses of plywood. About 12 inches by 12 inches. Thx for watching!

[@Joshua_Lyon]

Hi, thank you for the great video! I have a wavy floor in my home office on the second floor and I think this is just the answer I'm looking for. I would only be doing this as a small (around 6' x 7') platform for one area though, that I'd cover with a rug, and I don't want to damage the existing hardwood underneath. Is there something you can recommend to go under the shims to protect that surface, like carpet padding? My concern is that it's spongy so it might mess up the leveling over time (if not immediately once my desk and rolling chair are placed on the final platform). Thanks again!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Joshua, Maybe try thin padding used as underlayment for engineered hardwood floating floors. Specifically we’ve used “quietwalk” - it’s blue in rolls. Lumber Liquidators sells it, also big box home stores. Hope that helps. Thx for watching!

[@gmjavenger]

how do you find the highest point on a large floor area? I guess you level from. that point to all other points. Thanks

[@Housebarons]

Hey Greg, A laser level does the trick fast! Otherwise using a 4 or 6 ft level and sample different spots. It’s more tedious but can be done. Thx for watching!

[@LGALARNE]

Thanks for this video !! I will used your approach to relevel my floor . Where did you find the little 12" X 12" flat shim sheets ?

[@Housebarons]

Hey LG…, We made our own from 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch plywood. Thx for watching!

[@LGALARNE]

Thansks for your answer ! @@Housebarons

[@internalharm]

I really love your method, might be harder to do on concrete but I think its possible.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Internal…, Oh yeah. Seems like it would work to be. Thx for watching

[@briandd27]

My wife and I bought our first house back in 2017. It was built in the 1960s. Looking back, I wish we would've passed on buying the house because now the floors in the back of the house has started to sag and those floors have tile so the tile has started to crack in places. So stressful....

[@Housebarons]

Hey B…, Can you find out why by looking underneath? Sometimes supporting there can make a huge difference. This is what we did from the basement: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqfKnGuQepWel6c Yes. Houses can be stressful. But care and repair can protect your investment. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqfKnGuQepWel6c

[@JamesWray97]

Is this do-able for a 2.5-3inch sag?

[@Housebarons]

Hey TheRealEstateGuy, In theory yes. But first I make sure I know the reason for the sag before adding weight to what might be a problematic structural issue. Beyond that, the spacing of the shims and the thickness of the subfloor are important so as to not get too much give or spring when walking on the new floor. Thx for watching.

[@terrypolley5435]

What did you do in the doorway with one floor one height and the other at another? How did you smooth out and not have a small step up there?????

[@Housebarons]

Hey Terry, Eventually the entire floor upstairs was brought up to the same level. So the new osb flooring was shown in the video in just 2 rooms. But later, that was continued out the doorway and into the other rooms. Hope that helps. Thx for watching.

[@rtgardner90]

Could you put solid hardwood on top of this method?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Tyler, Yes - IF you are gluing it down. Can’t really nail through the concrete! Thx for watching!

[@rtgardner90]

@@Housebarons makes sense. No concrete in my situation though

[@Housebarons]

Hey Tyler, My bad. I was thinking this was our concrete floor leveler video. Yes. Makes sense to me that it should work. Just don’t skimp on the number of shims. You want good solid base for your floor. Thx again.

[@armenmichaeli6704]

Are the edges of the OSB boards painted blue at the store, or did you guys treat them with something? For what reason are they treated, impermeability? Also, I've been looking for this method of leveling without knowing I were looking for it ;) Appreciate the video very much!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Armen.., They are painted on edges at the mill - I think it’s for identification. Thx much for watching!

[@jerrys.1910]

Looks like a viable solution in some cases. Did you have any trouble with the 3/4 inch OSB not supporting enough in between the shims?... Was there any 'give'?? Thank you. Great video.

[@Housebarons]

Hey Jer…, Not at all - regular floor joist spacing is 12 inches apart. Thx for watching!

[@christophershank622]

What was used for pads other than shims?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Christopher…, Just 1’x1’ shims of various thicknesses. Then screwed and glued them to the existing floor with new subfloor over top of the shim/pads. Thx for watching!

[@christophershank622]

@@Housebarons Do they need to be screwed? Can they just be glued?

[@nicviv1165]

did you cut plywood yourself to make the small square shims or were they purchased that way pre cut?

[@Housebarons]

Hey Nic, Yes - we cut them ourselves. Thx for watching!

[@nicviv1165]

@@Housebarons its a big ask but is there a supply list like what glue to use, screws to use and sizes of Ply?

[@AlexandrDarius]

Hi there! How long did these two rooms take to level and put the OSBs on, please? Regards Alexandr

[@Housebarons]

Hey Alexandr, Don’t remember exactly, but I think it was less than a full day of work for two people. Thx for watching!

[@HumbuckerBob02]

Great info!...How do you handle the door sill with the additional height? Or the difference between the hallway and the room the work was done in? I am thinking of doing this in our cabin but have to keep in mind the entry and sliding patio doors. Appreciate any feedback!

[@Housebarons]

Hey Humbucker…, The sliding door should be easy / just add a transition strip to make a smooth transition to the new height. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHO6qJ2qn6aYmg The entry door is a bigger challenge - if it’s wood, you can simply trim the bottom off to the new floor height. Measure 2x, cut once. 😃 BUT if it is metal : steel, that’s a bigger deal. Either replace with wood or remove and replace it higher. We have moved an exterior door before - at least you can see the work involved here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWjRf4ebmN-LeKs Thx for watching!

[@HumbuckerBob02]

@@Housebarons Appreciate the feedback and response! This years challenge for the cabin is doing this exact procedure. Last year, I either replaced or sistered all the floor joist and center support beam and decided to let it sit over the winter so I can adjust any movement that happened, if any. with that said it is a cabin and still have some out of level and uneven areas to address from above and will be trying what you have shared in this video. Appreciate Ya!