How To Long Bury Splice and New Dyneema Rigging. : Part One.

Decided to replace our old stainless wire standing rigging with new synthetic dyneema rope using the long bury method and low friction rings.
This How To video is an interview I did with an Australian rigger Peter Grieg.
I took this video, with the idea that I would use it as a guide when I did my own synthetic rigging. I was not intending to put it out on KZbin.
Other than adding a couple of bits for clarification, the video is unedited and starts when I turned on the camera.
It's not organized into a step one, step two... Rather it is a simple hands on conversation with a very experienced rigger, who has a passion for spreading the word on synthetic rope and its many benefits.
This is Part One:
Peter goes over how to calculate, or measure, the length of the replacement synthetic stay.
How to correctly do a long bury splice in dyneema.
How to add a single and multiple low-friction rings.
Goes over his "width of palm plus thumb" rule.
Next Episode Part Two:
What I learnt in handling Dynice Dux dyneema.
Making my own fids.
Mistakes I made.
What I would do differently.
Would I still go with dyneema or stay with stainless if I had a bigger budget and more time?
Breakdown and cost of the new synthetic rigging, covering(sheath), tools and low friction rings.

[@inward_passage]

Super helpful. Thank you for making this. Replacing my rigging in the next couple of months 😅

[@SeaJapan]

Glad it was helpful!

[@lowellsheppard]

Interesting, informative and timely. Thanks

[@MiQBohlin]

Aye m8, this is super interesting stuff! Thnx for all your efforts for sharing! Maintenance is the thing 🛠️

[@SeaJapan]

Maintenance is certainly "the thing" :) Fortunate that Tiare has been so forgiving in terms of this. Keeping systems simple helps enormously. The KIS principle is one of, if not, the biggest cost savings and safety factors you can do on a yacht.

[@MiQBohlin]

And I just bought a splicing kit for braided lines in various sizes. I’ve been considering it for a while and this episode inspired me to take the step. 👌🏽

[@hakubaholiday9006]

excellent content Dan. Thanks for sharing with us.

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks Dan. :)

[@fabmanly1070]

Brilliant stuff!

[@SailingDecorum]

thanks for sharing! I'm looking to convert my old rod rigging to dyneema as well

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks for leaving a comment! Let me know how it goes with the new rigging. Are you doing this yourself?

[@matthiasvonmutius9264]

Hi, on my rigging I went with a double brummel splice and the long bury as well, I sail a Farrier F9RX trimaran and used Gleistein Dynaone HS MAX material. I went with 10mm replacing old 8mm stainless... matthias

[@SeaJapan]

Hi Matthias, thanks for the comment. Just looked up the rope you used, nice. I didn't go for the Brummel splice as Peter Grieg suggested the long bury as I would be able to undo the splice, without damaging the fibers, in the future if I needed to adjust the length for any reason. I think the idea that I could make future small adjustments so that all the eyes were at the same height. Peter is a perfectionist and a professional. I was just happy that they were all "about" right. But I do have enough length on the lowers to add additional low frictions rings if I wanted to.

[@ianb4801]

I've been watching other people changing to dyneema on other channels, although they seem to make dead-eyes using good thimbles. One, in particular, is also a rigger but he ran into an issue in Europe where zero degrees temperatures made his rigging slacken off so he couldn't set sails. The rigging recovered when weather warmed again but it surprised me that cold causes trouble like that. Have you come across that?

[@SeaJapan]

Yes dyneema does elongate when the temperatures drops a lot. I do have a slight slackening but as Tiare and Wharrams' rigging in general, are not needed to be under a constant hight tension it is not a problem. Plus is easy to tighten using the set up I have.

[@pironiero]

did he tapered the end of the rope which is encased in yellow shrink wrap?

[@hux8052]

Awesome video, thank you very much!! Quick question- What size low-friction rings did you use?

[@SeaJapan]

Hi Hux, sorry for the delay in reply. Was the largest I could find at the time. Needed to be large enough to pass 8mm double braid through at least six times without bunching up. Can’t get onboard Tiare for another 10 days to measure. Cheers.

[@hux8052]

Thanks! No need to measure, you answered it “the biggest you could find”.. wasn’t sure if a certain size was desirable… bigger the better is what it sounds like👍

[@benraley4004]

Would a locked Brummell not be the way to make the eyes to accept your friction free rings?

[@SeaJapan]

Peter Greig prefers a Long Bury to a Brummell, as a Long Bury allows for any adjustments later on. Perhaps if I wanted to increase the size or add an additional low friction ring. Which I do :)

[@ianb4801]

Interesting that it seems the line is tapered and then encased in masking tape - and it seems the masking tape stays in place forever. Is that right or is the tape removed at some stage?

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks for the question. Yes the tape stays on.

[@petergordon4223]

Hi Dan Just came across this - great info. I'm considering dyneema for my 50' gaff schooner. Can you please expand on the loops at the hounds? Is there any chafe protection around the loops and through the bight? With traditional wire the loops are spliced large eyes with leather protection, yours look like the pull tight around the mast. I'm about a year away from building and standing the masts so plenty of time to get the detail right. Cheers Peter

[@SeaJapan]

Hi Peter, the whole stay is covered in a braided cover, mine are dark grey, Peter Greig normally uses a black cover. Other than this I dont have any extra chafe protection. I had traditional wire loops before and they were wound with a 3 or 4mm rope that then had a leather guard sewn over that. Dyneema a lot easier. I did find that because you are creating a loop with the eye it does double up the amount of room the loops take compared the the single wire loop. You should allow for this. So, instead of having four loops of wire with dyneema I have eight going around the mast head. Hope this helps and thanks for the questions.

[@petergordon4223]

@@SeaJapan Thanks Dan Might have to seek out Peter for a bit of assistance. I've just had a look at the plans in detail and they go above the hounds, so only a large loop will provide clearance. Thanks for the prompt reply. I did follow your youtube a few years ago when we were thinking about a Wharram - but an opportunity arose for another vessel. Pleasant sailings!

[@xavierpierron2138]

Thanks for the very informative video. Great idea from the Aussie rigger to sleeve the Dyneema tail before burying it. Would you know what kind of material he used?

[@SeaJapan]

Sleeve was normal braided but with no core, think it’s called hollow double braid. Thanks for the comment.

[@artyspost]

Hi, would you be able to give me an update after 2 years use of dyneema. Cheers

[@SeaJapan]

Will do, will add to next set of Q and A video. But in before then. Rigging has done well, I did make a basic mistake in not putting enough initial tension on the long bury splices, so they have lengthened as the splice has settled in, means I have had to re tension the rigging, not a big deal tho. Other than this I am happy with the dyneema.

[@pavloskourris277]

Thanks for the video. This was 2 years ago, has anything changed or is this a good way to Splice Dyneema for standing rigging? I am splicing now for my backstay. Was 7mm 1x19 wire and am replacing with 6mm Dyneema (Dyna One by Gleinstein). I used D-SLICER tape but found it caught onto the Dyneema threads, what is your experience, have you used anything else so as to smoothly insert into the Dyneema without catching and cutting some threads. I have just finished and there are a lot of cut threads due to the tape, it seems the tape caught onto them and while pulling the splice tight it cut a few. What is your experience with this.

[@SeaJapan]

Thank for watching . Rigging is fine and the long bury method I showed is doing great, but, you do need to get that high tension to settle the finished spliceo. As to the tape, It is important to wrap the dyneema carefully with the tape, I. Might not have emphasized that part of the process. With 6mm being thin it is much harder to do a smooth wrap. I also had 20 splices 11mm (10 stays x 2) to get it right. The tape does stretch slightly, so wrapping the cut strands tightly helped for me. I also used a thin painters tape on my other splices e.g. soft shackles and various loops. The painters masking tape worked fine. Hope this is helpful. Again thank for reaching out. Dan

[@pavloskourris277]

@@SeaJapan Dan thanks. In your video Peter used painter tape but somewhere in the video D-SPLICER was mentioned. I haven't done the other end yet so I will use painters tape for that. I will put out a video showing my Dyneema backstay which at the splice end (1.4m bury) it looks like a scruffy cat fur. What rope brand for Dyneema do you use?

[@SeaJapan]

I used Dynice Dux hampidjan.com/products/fishing/dynice-ropes/. Cheers

[@waughthogwaugh3078]

Great vid Dan thank you. Would love to know how many kg's you've shed from on high bu making this change.

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks for the comment. Next video will definitely go over this. The weight saving was substantial. The entire new rigging was around 25kg total. Which is the equivalent of 3 stainless stays. Tiare has 10 stays. Ask as many questions as you like, will try to cover them in Part Two.

[@jg7749]

Any recorded failure in the Caribbean ?

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks for the time to comment, really appreciated :) Sorry I don't have any information, I only can give advice on what I have done, on my boat, which will very likely be different for any other boat.

[@csapoamedia3055]

I would love to have a dyneema rigging, but I'm not experienced in rigging unfortunately. Do you know anybody, who can do it in the south of France or Spain? My Boat is 15mx4.75m and has a furling mast.

[@noissimdam]

Hi dan great topic and presentation , just to be clear when peter buries the taper on a proper working shroud does he leave the yellow tape on the taper ? or was this a demonstration splice unintended for work ?

[@SeaJapan]

Thanks for the question. Yes the tape is left on, the yellow tape was just an example, although can be used in a pinch. I used splicing tape. D-Splicer is a brand