How to make a ceramic casting mould - long version

[@Heartwing37]

Your tips and shortcuts are the most useful I’ve seen! Thank you!

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

so kind, thanks! The mixing in a bag is a game changer fo rme!

[@janethowell9048]

Best tutorial I’ve seen. Thank you

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

Best Comment I've seen!

[@stephencraig7130]

Great video! I appreciate all of your effort. I've been doing this for years.

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

Thank you!

[@ambereden4826]

Brilliant, thanks Matt learnt some extra tips!

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

Thank you Amber.

[@Me4322dfwwr]

Hello, thank you for this amazing video! I was wondering, would this casting method be suitable for high detail sculptures?

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

Of course.. plaster can pick up the finest of details.

[@noelisaac1222]

Thank you for the education. I have a wood stove that has a large ceramic "nozzle" (3 inch thick plate about 1 foot by 1 foot with a square hole in it) and that nozzle goes bad each each seemingly after a season of heating my home. after the warrantee expires on the furnace, i am going to be stuck with the bill for the next 20 years to buy a new expensive ceramic nozzle, and I'd rather just bite the bullet, build my own mold based on a new nozzle that i have, and poor my own molds rather than buy the nozzles each year. do you have any suggestions on extremely high temperature ceramic material for these nozzles? some say our temps in these furnaces reach over 3000 degrees Fahrenheit and steel/iron dont hold up. any suggestions would be appreciated. i have no idea what I am doing but your video is very informative. Thank you, Noel

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

Hi Noel, 3000F is ridiculously hot! There isn't much that would withstand that sort of temperature. Even if you can get a clay that is able to withstand that temperature, I would worry that the stresses of heatin gand cooling may well cause it to crack. You may be better off with a heat proof fibre board of some description, or perhaps the thermal bricks used to line a kiln?

[@watchingyoutubeat]

hey mold master please reply, i have a doubt when we cast plaster in mould, before pouring plaster brushing 3 coat plaster can avoid the air bubble pores at product surface and get better finish after taking out product from mould am i right?

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

If you are pouring onto damp clay you will very rarely ever see air bubbles.

[@watchingyoutubeat]

@HobbyCeramicraft no it's not clay only to make another product no problem if it is porous THANKS FOR SPENDING YOUR VALUEABLE TIME TO REPLY 💯💯💯😎😎❤️❤️❤️

[@timgiles9413]

Thanks for the video. I need to make a mold for "train wheels" that are about 8 inches then fill them with a 2-part epoxy (like skateboard wheels). I know nothing about this hobby. After you made the mold, could you fire kilt it so it would be smooth and nothing would stick to it (like 2 part epoxy) Thanks

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

I wouldn't use plaster as my mould if you are using epoxy as a medium. You'd be better of using a silicone or polyurethane mould and not worrying about undercuts, simply peel the mould off after you cast. Just check your epoxy doesn't have any chemical reactions associated with the mould medium you choose to use.

[@watchingyoutubeat]

pottery plaster is a unique material ? or i can use common plaster of pairs?

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

It's best to use a plaster that is designed for castong with. The regular (cheaper) plaster of paris will not have the strength, may do a partial job, but not hold the detail as well, or as long as Keramicast Plaster.

[@watchingyoutubeat]

@@HobbyCeramicraft thanks 🙏👍👍👍👍👍

[@NaoRinCH]

Subtitles are recommended, because the information reaches many more people. Thank you for the video! :3

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

noted..

[@stephencraig7130]

Now you can make a rubber case of this mold....

[@HobbyCeramicraft]

If only the rubber wasn't sooo expensive!