How To Make A N Male Crimp Connector - LMR 400

[@neighborlynut]

I had a high priority install for a critical piece of infrastructure, today, and this video was extremely helpful. So thank you!

[@randydick869]

This taught me better than people at work can

[@beachsandinspector]

i am glad to see you do not double crimp, it drives me crazy when people just have to ruin a decent termination by weakening the crimp when they double crimp (the excuse is "it looks better" atcually as a telco tech I know it causes mechanical weakness and in digital ccts it causes bit errors).

[@ShowMeCables]

Thanks! Performance is what matters the most.

[@svetlove470]

что за хуйню ты несешь? какие ошибки? надеюсь что таких специалистов увольняют в США и не допускают к работе

[@ruicardosotube]

Hi. What crimping tool are you using ? Do you sell it online ? Thank you in advance.

[@thomashybiske5399]

What is the exact length of the center conductor stub from the dielectric to the its tip?

[@ZopcsakFeri]

I bought the same crimping pliers by accident - do you think I could use them as hex ferrule crimpers on thicker gauge stranded wire, e.g for a PE main line in a distribution cabinet?

[@wingelpurugganan1378]

HI, can i ask what is the diameter of the crimp connector and where did you bought it? please respond.

[@tracoba867]

What the name of crimper you use?

[@julc6648]

Have the same welder!

[@BrianSeklecki]

What side diameter solder material did you use ?

[@robmcdonald8262]

You didn't mention the strip length required?

[@adcsparikshit965]

i love your channel name :D

[@iraybae977]

Can I squeeze the wick instead of soldering?

[@Bahanov]

no no and again no :)

[@Crestoify]

Hey there great video, I just have a question and I hope you respond What type of cable where used? and what do you guys think would be the best cable for an outdoor wireless dish installation? Thank you! I'm new to these stuff :)

[@rickyshuptrine2831]

LMR-400 are equivalent.

[@balajiLILG]

hi i need a low loss coaxial cable for my 24 dbi parabolic wifi antenna. lot of ppl seems to be LMR 400 but it is not available in my city. so how about rg 213 ? i am going to be using 30 feet cable. the velocity prop of rg 213 and lmr 400 is 66% and 86% respectively. so will there to too much signal loss ??

[@ShowMeCables]

For a 30 foot run, you won't notice any difference. It will be fine to use RG-213.

[@balajiLILG]

Tnx a lot for quick reply :D

[@alwisyamhudi9112]

Alat tang namanya apa ya

[@GallAnon]

I know better way to do it. You put sleeve first, its just easier. For the pin; melt little bit of solder inside the pin, put on the conductor and hit it with small butane torch. The pin will nicely weld to the core. I made a lot of cables like that for RF installations.

[@leephcom]

Actually I think the proper method would be to tin the centre conductor with solder first (do not use so much as to increase the diameter of the conductor) and then slide on the centre pin and apply heat with an iron to complete the joint. I would be reluctant to use a butane torch for fear of distorting/damaging/melting the dielectric.

[@MountainParameters]

The soldering technique to attach the pin shown in this video is not the best because: 1: it does not ensure a solid grip, and 2: it does not provide maximum conductivity between the center conductor and the pin, thus decreasing the velocity factor of the cable and increasing the SWR for the antenna the cable is attached to. I use both of these suggestions: EG, tinning both bonding elements with soldering station. I have not had any issues using a butane torch to then mate the two. Also the comment about sliding the sleeve over the cable before you start is indeed preferable: because it does not cause insult to the braid when it is being slid over the braid while it is bent at a 180 degree angle over the sheath. This video could also be improved by showing a follow up of applying heatshrink over the sleeve. CPC300 dual wall adhesive heat shrink is preferable for this type of application as it helps to keep the sleeve from separation, and ensure continued flex if you are using UltraFlex cable.

[@boris9331]

Spoken like a pro, this is the way you'll find works best in the field.

[@dannelson8556]

While I'm sure terminating coax assembles like that for hobby use is acceptable in the real world where lives are on the line that cable would have gone in the reject pile. Obviously when it comes to coax and wire terminations the aerospace industry and military have much higher standards than hobests do. The two biggest mistakes made where folding the braid back and not making sure the center pin was seated firmly against the dielectric. This is not that important at 7mhz, but it's critically important above 100mhz. It's also of absolute critical importance that the braid never be disturbed. If the cable is intended to be used on VHF and above then the braid should be man handled as little as possible so that it retain it's weave which will preserve the minimum coax specifications. FURTHERMORE... NEVER !! under any circumstances !!! fold the braid back or nic the center conductor or braid with a sharp object. The proper technique is to place the ferrule on the coax first. If you don't have a three level stripper then wrap a piece of tape around the braid marking the second trim line fold the braid to be cut back over the tape and then use a sharp pair of wire cutters or nail trimmers to trim the braid at flush with the tape. After trimming the braid simply slide the tape off the braid.. Now the technique to prep the braid is to grasp the center pin and dielectric in one hand and rotate it in a circle by slightly flexing the dielectric while holding the outer jacket near the base of braid, This will flare the braid out just enough to allow you to slide the connector into place without disturbing the weave of the braid. Then again this is only important if you are using the connector above 100 mhz and want to have the lowest loss termination with no impedance bumps. If you're using it on HF well then it's over kill, HF is pretty much childs play. You can probably get away with using a pocket knife as a stripper and and old pair of vice grips as a crimper for HF connections and no one would know the difference.

[@ShowMeCables]

Great info Dan. Thanks for sharing.

[@goobernoodles]

Dan Nelson This is really helpful information. Thanks for posting.

[@R3Cat]

Dan Nelson Works fine on 144, 440 and 2200 mhz here without your method. ametur radio.

[@dannelson8556]

Re I'm sure you think it does, In the professional world this is known as an anecdotal observation and in the real world of RF engineering anecdotal observation are worthless. Ham radio is a hobby based on science and engineering not anecdotal observations. So excuse me if I stick to teaching proven feed line termination methods. Now I will consider changing my opinion when and if you can backup your assertion with sold measurements from a recently calibrated TDR as well as some S parameter plots from a vector network analyzers and then when your done with those Hi-Pot test the assembly , if it all checks out then I will concede. I'm not trying to be rude but the fact is when you step up to the professional world of electronics engineering things change and you must be able to measure, demonstrate and prove your assertions, once again this is the science and engineering aspect of electronics. An impedance bump at 440 might not be a big deal to you but when you're terminating feed lines for a few million dollars worth of deep space radio astronomy equipment there's no room for error likewise when you're terminating aircraft feed lines there's no room for error or people can die. That's why there are professionals who get paid to take responsibility for the quality of their work and why there are hobbyists and amateurs who play. I would like to believe that most amateurs have a firm grasp on the basics yet 2/3rds of hams I've met in the last 10 years couldn't describe resonance, capacitance or inductance which is fundamental to radio, let alone try and explain FM radio theory such as phase modulation and Pre-emphasis & De/emphasis.. Yet these are the same hams who every chance they get try and tell professionals how to do their job. Don't get me wrong I'm also a ham, I've had my ham ticket for over 40 years. At one time hams were well respected an very knowledgeable, unfortunately times have changed and today ham radio has degenerated into nothing more than glorified CB. Of course that's what happens when you publicize all the answers to the exams so any joker can memorize a few test questions and quality for a licence. Once again LMR-400 has a copper clad aluminum center conductor and if you understand skin effect then you understand how detrimental a nick in that copper cladding can be. Then again, if you don't know what skin effect is and you don't have the advanced math skills to calculate the effects of a defect in that cladding then it makes sense that you would think its no big deal.

[@swashington942]

lol

[@stewarthowarth4032]

What size of die is used in the crimp tool for LMR400?

[@robertrichards8184]

I use a Y110 die in my DMC crimp tool for LMR400

[@vldbzh]

Maybe .429"

[@jasonbrown467]

sweet video, weird music. thanks

[@aadilshahzad4036]

Safety gloves are recommended

[@ericracicot2200]

dont looklike respect the connector strip specification...

[@Andrey0I]

Паять учитесь)))

[@bluezoomer4477]

No Measuring. No Fuss. No Muss. (as they say) Come on. There IS Measuring Involved. There Has Got to be !!

[@W.Woodski-vn2fc]

You have no idea about soldering and crimping coax... This is chinese quality