Simple And Fast Method For Attaching PL-259 RF Connectors To RG-8, 9913, LMR-400 Size Coax

After decades of soldering the PL-259 connector to the braid thru the holes in the PL-259, I have discovered this method, from watching another KZbin video, of attaching the PL-259 to the large size coax like RG-8, 9913, LMR400, etc without having to solder thru the holes to the braid. I think it is much better and makes the expensive PL-259 connectors reusable and after a little experience, I find it faster and safer than soldering to the shield.

[@dougstout3663]

I've done it this way for 40+ years. It's the best way to do it.

[@CaptainD17]

Im practicing this with some very old 400 copper . I appreciate the video sir !

[@user-sk9di4gq9w]

Thanks for this video, Candyman 102, 913, mini maul waving from Baltimore MD 73"s and happy Father's day to you and your family!

[@SpinStar1956]

Relax! This is a valid method, and for all the people giving you crap about this, they are just wrong! First-off, unless you can solder the braid to the connector in just a very-few seconds, you will melt the center dielectric! There are some dielectrics that are more tolerant of heat than others but unless you use an extreme amount of heat from a high-mass soldering iron (not gun!), you will melt it. There was a ham who was also an RF-engineer that was giving demonstrations (I believe with a TDR?) whereby he showed that once the dielectric was compromised there was always an impedance-bobble (his term for impedance change) where you turned to dielectric into a puddle. He remarked that professional ones are done with and induction heater, then rapidly cooled. Furthermore, once the connector is installed using this video's no-solder method, the connection is so-tight that it forms what is known as a 'gas-tight' connection. I have been using this method for over 50 years, and every one I take apart still has bright shiny-copper and the connector interior is also without corrosion--and there are only ever a few broken-wires but I am convinced they are from the disassembly--NOT the initial assembly! What you mostly see after disassembly is the braid-strands are actually embedded in the outer-jacket and not sheared off like has been said by the naysayers! Tips: First, before you completely screw it all the way on, cut the braid, this way you won't get constant copper injections from the pokey-bits! Next, just before the finally few turns, you can put some non-corrosive sealant or Coax-Seal which will seal the end. The heat shrink if a great idea as well. To ease the screwing-on process, a small pipe-wrench will grip without slipping, and makes it easy to turn it; use a gloved hand on the other side for comfort. Finally, (most-important!) when screwing the connector on, carefully watch when the dielectric bottoms-out on the connector's insulator; if you turn it past this point, you WILL shear the braid because you are now rotating in-place (and cutting in-place!); because there is no forward movement (i.e. the braid is locked in the same position and being sliced in the same place)! It is obvious from the positive comments, most everyone is successful with this technique. 73...

[@beaver6969lv]

I've done this for years. Also it's always good habit to ohm your cable after you're done building it, make sure there is no short. Great video.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

Totally agree with using the ohm meter... 73

[@danieljohnson8437]

Soldering everything. Always. Corrosion

[@nc4tn]

I’ve used this method for years. I made a little wooden jig out of a 2x4 with a hole a little smaller that the outside diameter of the coax and drilled longitudinally, and then sawed in half longitudinally. I then use clamps to hold them together, clamping down on the coax while screwing on the connector.

[@kt4wx]

I have been using this technique for 15 - 20 years and it works very well. I have used it on RG8X and RG58 with success. The only variation I have done is to snip off the excessive braid or shorten the braid so when you screw the connector on the braid is no longer visible. I have done this for years with RG8, RG8X and RG58. The only difference for RG8X and RG58 is you have to push the RG - 176/U (for RG8X) and RG - 175/8 (RG58) over the braid and then screw the connector onto the reducer and then solder the center conductor. Both techniques take some "elbow grease" but in the end you have a very tight mechanical connection on the braid. It is interesting to note that the industry is going towards crimp connections on RF connectors in recent years, with the proper tools of course.

[@fonze1969]

i have done this since 1979

[@michaelormandy6651]

Agreed on trimming all excessive braid, no point in having any hanging out of the connection.

[@edwardmanfredi121]

Great Suggestion ! I'm in the process of mounting all my 259's - they just came in today. I like the way you did this and plan to try it this week. Thanks !

[@patrickwarsalla9804]

Used this method in the Navy and then for the Navy Shipyard as a civilian. Great video, did learn a few things. 73 K8MFK

[@wramsey2656]

Thank you always like watching something and learning from it. As an old EE i learned something from your video and appreciate the time you spent to make it. The comb process was a bonus :)

[@dave3005]

I have put hundreds of PL-259s this exact same way, always got a good connection that lasted.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I just went thru this procedure again on a 40M dipole where the coax (LMR-400) hangs from the balun. The old connection was a soldered braid to the PL-259 and lasted maybe a year. I think the shield broke because it was soldered and probably rigid and the solder wicked down the braid. I will see in about a year from now... Thanks for your comments. 73

[@kf7nn]

done this for many years, its a great connection, one thing is that you have to really comb out the braid well or the connector will not thread over the braid properly, once it catches your good to go. i always use some thick heat shrink with the glue to go over the threaded part so the braid that may stick out wont poke me.

[@bgorveatt]

I've been putting my pl259 connectors on this way on my 8x coax since the 90's. Thanks for posting!

[@brian.7966]

me to works a treat.

[@user-sk9di4gq9w]

Thanks again for this video!

[@davetelling]

This is amazing! I just ordered some pricey "clamp-on" type PL-259's, but after this, I'll try this technique!

[@charliehustle5529]

you can also use a copper pipe cutter . to cut the cable as you spin it just screw the cutter tighter as you spin it . its safer than a blade knife .

[@stevesnyder4069]

I never use solid core coax. Always use silver PL259 so they soldier very easily and soldier the braids. I used your method before I wised up. Thanks for the vid.

[@aa2fd]

This was how I was taught to install PL259s, back in the 70s. What I learned through experience (and connector failures): the connections don't last very long, especially if used outdoors. Only thing I've found that was worse was crimped connectors. Coax-seal stuff + electrical tape didn't help with either of those methods. That's when I was shown how to properly solder these connectors on. All you need is a good 100w soldering iron (no, soldering guns won't cut it). Just sharing my experiences.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I don't doubt you are right. I do not use crimp connectors on anything but BNC. This method does seem to be OK indoors and I also solder the outside connections before covering them with coax seal and or tape. I have a 325 watt Weller soldering gun (Model D-550) and that is what I use to solder connectors. I put it together and then clamp the coax in a vice, get the PL-259 hot quickly and put the solder to it making sure it gets down in the holes to the shield then quickly rotate it 90 degrees and so on until I fill the four holes. Thanks for your comments.

[@bigchew3149]

Yes Sir !

[@michaelormandy6651]

I used to think the same and that's what I was taught. However...per the manufacturer, LMR-400 is not designed to have the braid soldered, it's designed for crimp-on connectors, with only the center pin soldered. Trying to heat up the PL-259 body and solder into holes to hopefully connect with aluminum strands which don't really solder makes no sense. The above method may seem a touch odd, but it works. Though a bit messy and tedious to apply, I use GE advanced silicone to seal all outdoor connections involving PL-259s regardless of how they are made, they are not waterproof connectors. I have have helped install antennas that have been standing for over 25 years with connections still sealed watertight, I've had that verified. High quality silicone is incredibly durable even in direct all-day sunlight...fo decades.

[@michaeldotc2254]

Tried this out today on some 9913. Easy peezy,. I'll be doing it this way from now on. Thanks for the tip! :)

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I have been into soldering the shield for 50+ years and this actually seems better and the PL-259 can be re-used and no risk of melting the dielectric. I am glad it helped and thanks for your comments

[@stevemercure902]

I had a broadcast engineer friend of mine show me this technique some 25 years ago and I've used ever since. However, what I learned from your video is the exact measurements for the cuts. I had been eyeballing them before. I like your measurements better! Thanks for sharing! 73 de W5EN

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

Steve - I am glad it helped. I just looked you up on QRZ and read your bio. I also started at 13 in 1963 with my general license, examined for code and written test by the FCC in Atlanta, GA. I had studied code the summer preceding the exam in Oak Ridge, TN with my uncle who was a chemist at ORNL (the exam was at the end of the summer in September just before school started) and somehow passed the code. Whewwww... I guess I have always been OK at passing tests although I never thought I was until now that I am 70 and look back on time. Passing tests did not necessarily mean I knew what I was doing.... LOL, but it counts for something, I suppose. I hope we meet on 20M someday since that is the only band I operate nowadays. 73 WA4QGA

[@frankpeck1448]

Thank you, ETA, from N. Kentucky...Great Video. 73s...KI6CMR

[@GroundControl204]

I prefer 1/4 Heliax, that is top of the line, and 2nd runner up is definitely LMR 400 & 600. Great video by the way, east coast technician with the wave👋🏻

[@dancingbear6239]

I tin the braid then solder through the holes on the barrel. It’s fast, neat and a solid electrical connection.

[@OldinMariner]

This may be fine for a few years but connections like this are what were 90% of my calls for bad VHF radios in the marine industry. Without a good electrical connection, either solder or crimp, this will fail in any moisture and worse near the ocean. I quit using solder and crimp only if at all possible. With the right tool to crimp, it will last as long as the cable. I also use a thick wall heat shrink tubing with a sealant on the inside or self vulcanizing tape. I have opened these over 20 years later and the connections are still like new.

[@davidbrennan5]

I want to put up a hf antenna in the back yard, maybe run 50 feet of coax. I was thinking about using times microwave LMR-400 because I want it to last and I will most likely be running an amp in the future, I was going to order the silver solder on connectors, I was going to shrink wrap the connector what brand of tape do you use and do you still shrink wrap it underneath?

[@OldinMariner]

@@davidbrennan5 Silver solder requires too much heat and will damage the coax, use regular electronics solder, or crimp instead. If you have trouble soldering the shield you can strip the outside cover about 1 1/2" and with a hot iron tin the shield. Do it quickly so you will not over heat the insulator, then using a copper tubing cutter cut off the shield about 1/2" from the cover leaving 1" of the inner insulator showing. (this works best with a solid insulator) cut the insulator about 1/8" from the shield leaving 7/8" of center conductor. now you should be able to twist on the PL259 if you did not over tin the shield. Now solder the connector with a high wattage soldering iron, around 140 watts or more , because you tinned the shield if should me easer to get a good solder joint. Hopes this helps you.

[@Just3DPrinting]

If you want waterproof then use a waterproof connector not pl259..

[@Snowdog070]

I used to solder the little holes too but started using this method about 2 years ago. It works well. On some LMR400 coax (Shireen) I sand paper or whittle with a sharp knife the outer black covering to reduce its diameter to allow the inner threads of the PL259 to screw onto the coax a little easier. Haven't had a problem yet.

[@bleikrsound6127]

I heard about this method years ago, but older Amateur operators said the tight threading would slice up the braid, so I ditched the idea. I’m revamping my radio hobby, and will give this a try. Thanks!

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I thought the same thing about it cutting the wires on the braid so I actually screwed the PL-259 back off to check, and in my case, it did not cut the wires. I was surprised and only then decided to make this video. I also use RG-9 cable which I really like and in that case (two shields) I still solder the PL-259 on but for the LMR-400 is seems to be OK. BTW - I am one of the older hams at 71 and have been on the air since 1963. 73

[@JasonCooper-wu1qj]

Forgot about coax use rca jacks 😡 plug 🔌 in play or 75 ohm plug 🔌 in play no soldering no test meters thrifty stores tuns of color coaxial cable 🚠 green 💚 for beams 🟡 for Diplo white 🤍 for long wire antenna rca 🔇 switch box wife will happily no drilling holes open window 🪟 flat wire no mfj rip 📴 4 dollar 💵 special antenna straight wire

[@JasonCooper-wu1qj]

That crap full in landfill see to many people throwing it away

[@JasonCooper-wu1qj]

No amp 😭 ok folks 😭 just make shure you ground everything not 🚫🚫 back to the power supply 🎣 on your main line 😜

[@Ploggy.]

Great video thanks for posting 👍

[@AmitSingh-zn1kz]

Thank you for this video made so systematically.

[@mrradio2187]

Excellent presentation plus you have saved me the cost of buying the fancy strip tools to put on crimp connectors which are fine but I have some nice Amphenol silver PL-259' in my parts box. I think my next purchase of LMR-400 I will pay a little extra and go with the ultra-flex.

[@bigchew3149]

just make sure you do your research First & make Sure it is Copper NO cca ! The Man That Makes Coax here in the usa said that 98% of all coax on amazon & ebay Was Fake /Knock Offs so Look For MPD Digital is a really good one..Times microwave lmr400 is good but it is faked to...Side note All Real Coax well 99.99% is All Copper ! The Center & The Shield Both should be Copper if it is not it is fake ! I Only Say This because i recently got Ripped off on some all copper supposedly us made Coax ! It acted weird so i cut it open & Found aluminum ! that was a 60$ Lesson for me !

[@zukispur5493]

Brilliant. Hi from London.

[@mikedillon7268]

Great vid ! Thank you !!!!

[@jimaspinwall7814]

1. Completed ignored Times specification of crimp connectors. 2. Bonus points for the moisture access thru the holes to allow for contamination of the dissimilar metal braid/foil interface, risk issues with the center conductor.

[@CT1JRZ]

Funny, when I start playing with antennas back in 2007, that was the way I connect it. Cool!

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

Not sure why it took me so long to discover this. I started looking around YT for ideas and ran across one gentleman that dips his braid in molten lead to prep it before soldering thru the holes.. I kind of liked that method but it is still "old style" with the likelihood of solder in the threads, almost impossible to reuse the connector, etc. Then I ran across this method and after a few experiments, it turned out really nice and the braid was not cut by the threads in the PL-259 so it looked promising. I have several connections made this way now and I think it is the way to go. Thanks for your comments. Hope to hear you on 20M WA4QGA

[@CT1JRZ]

@@ElPasoTubeAmps Yup! It´s a nice way to do it. I still have connectors on some antennas like that. And the setup is there working fine! But now I started to apply solder on the new ones. Maybe now I´m just complicating. 73

[@ik1lbl]

Thank's for sharing ! is just abt what i usually do more than 30 yrs a go when first licensed... later in the era of iternet i have start to soldering the braid but not so happy.... :-( sorry for my poor english best 73s de IK1LBL

[@joelmcallister9248]

Thank You for posting

[@chrissewell1608]

This is the way! ... I have alway done my coax connectors too.

[@driech1]

Great video!!!

[@elkbow]

No need to separate the shield to fold it back. Just push back and it will widen and you can reverse it right over the outside is the coax, still braided, still intact, no little pieces getting in to things.

[@davidmartin123]

Yes - like a Chinese finger trap

[@goofyradiodude]

I've been doing it that way since 1977 been around a while-and to beaconmania- the PL259 is just fine for any HF to 200Mhz application with power up to 1.5KW on HF at least. Commercial VHF marine radios and HF marine radios use them-far beyond CB I must say .

[@DAVIDGREGORYKERR]

Those connectors are a pleasure to use and there is an adapter part that comes with them to allow the use of RG58U, Just be safe not sorry and we don't want another silent key.

[@TorLangvand]

I use pipe cutter as well. Just be a little careful when you get close to the center conductor.

[@earlblackjackmartinjr5750]

I hear you buddy. I have rg213 which is about same. I have arthritis and my vice is in basement but I will use vice next, huh very soon. I forgot I need a couple cause I have a 3500 watt and 4 or 5 2x4 units.

[@pcostadias]

Guys, you can use a small screw driver and insert in one of the holes with this you don’t need any vice or pliers. I’m doing this since forever never learned any other way here in Europe.

[@wadepatton2433]

Yup, I just started doing it this way a couple years ago. Old hams can learn new tricks. 73

[@thehulkster2707]

i have done it this way for years.. the only thing i figured out over time was when possible do not cut the longer extra shield braid wire off. screw the connector on and tighten it up to the radio or ant or what ever. then fold the braid/shield wire back towards the tip. then slide a hose clamp over the base and tighten the extra braid.to the bottom of the connector. so you have the extra that you were going to cut off now touching it also.

[@paulhastings3109]

Definitely have a good ground. Probably get by without soldering the centre pin

[@KrissBartlett]

very good i do it very similar but dont cut so muck at the end and do it with pliers with out the vice very good some 50 ome's coax is alot softer depends what type you get 213 i think is alot softer i check with multi meter to see if there is a short mine is rg8 though

[@nopenadanowaynohow]

Done it that way, still prefer to solder. just buy good silver plated types instead of the cheap and common nickle-plated ones. solders fast and easy, no melting the insulators, leaves it all more water proof as well. and i don't have to screw around with trying to comb out the braid and with my arthritis, way too hard to screw it on over it.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

It is definitely hard to screw the connector on and my hands are full of arthritis also and I have only about half the strength I used to have. Also, it is even harder for braided center conductor but a little easier with the LMR-400 as it has a solid #10 copper wire in the center. 73

[@earlwithmore9065]

You reminded me of Buzzsah, he does crazy things as well as climbing a ladder on a 30ft (ca. 9 m) pole, lifting a 30 ft pole with beam using a small JD. hahaha too does his pl259s like that as well. Good video, keep them coming. Ps, Sorry but I don't sub, nor look for subs. Just haven't the time.

[@francismcclaughry3794]

I have coax to do. I have had a bad time trying to do this. I'm going to try this

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I have found out over the years that if you do decide to solder to the shield thru the holes, you need a really hot soldering iron/gun. I use a Weller D-550 at 325 watts. You have to let the soldering gun get as hot as it will get then get the connector hot quickly and get the solder down in the hole quickly, then rotate it 90 degrees by holding the coax in a vice, then rotate again until you fill the four holes and back off... it can turn out really good but you also have to be careful not to let the solder flow into the threads of the PL-259. It will work but it is always just a little unpredictable. I also recommend not using the small solder. Use a medium size solder so you can get enough on the connector and holes quickly. Hope this helps whenever you do decide to solder. I think this screw-on way is just as good and you can usually reuse your PL-259.

[@williambudd2850]

If you are going to solder through those squar holes to attach the braid. Tin the braid and holes first and the job will go more smoothy even for nickel plated connectors.

[@francismcclaughry3794]

like you vido I just had the problem of putting one coax end on a gab antenna. we got one on but i think the dielectric was melted and we did not get it done. I just wished there was an easy to do this with the antenna in the air.

[@markwarren7116]

I mentioned this on a few other videos, but the best PL-259's are made by Maxgain Systems. They can take the heat better then any PL-259's I ever used. The silver coated Teflon PL-259's are garbage. If you can find the Kalibur type PL's then I can say they are just behind the Maxgain type.

[@michaelormandy6651]

While I would always solder a copper braided cable, aluminum braid is very tough to solder, and there is great risk of melting the Dielectric. When it doubt, check with the manufacturer: Times Microwaves says the LMR-400 braid is designed for crimping, and should NOT be soldered. Amphenol does NOT list LMR-400 as a supported cable for their standard PL-259. Why? Because trying to solder aluminum braid is a bad idea. Other than crimping, as odd is it might look, THIS gentleman's technique is the way to go. Used it for years on outdoor work, all connections sealed with GE advanced silicone. It's messy, tedious, but highly effective and permanent even in direct sun for decades, encasing the entire cable to cable connection in silicone for eternity. Oldest installation is about 30 years, connections sealed, no issues. NO PL-259 is designed to be watertight no matter which braid method is used, and must always be sealed for outdoor use.

[@revodrvr]

Can u recommend me the best coax for a single anylten a mobile setup in my kenworth w900. Truck stop kits ate junk I'd like to have something with a solid center instead of multi strand

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I am a fan of large coax, in particular LMR-400 shown in the video. It is a #10 copper solid conductor and fits nicely into PL-259 connectors but might be a challenge in a mobile installation because of its size and relative stiffness. On the other hand, multi-strand wire is good for a mobile installation as it is much more resistance to breaking than solid conductors like in cheap RG-58. Probably the best compromise is RG-8X coax. It is a bit larger than RG-58 and requires a different size insert in the back of the PL-259. I find good deals from Ebay and also can be purchased as www.mouser.com. Good USA coax is worth the price. The LMR-400 I use is, Times Microwave, brand made in the USA. Hope this helps.

[@barryinn1778]

It would help a lot if you could tell us where to get the end connectors you're using.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I buy them mostly off Ebay as I do the LMR-400 . I am careful to buy from a reputable dealer and make sure the connectors are silver plated and PTFE (Teflon) dielectric. There is also, www.mouser.com where you can be sure to get genuine USA made connectors, if you choose, but they cost $$$. Hope that helps.

[@amsoiltek]

Check out the K3LR method, it's what I use.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

Thank you. I just found his method and put a link to it. Hopefully, it will help also. www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/

[@DynoDieselWagon]

Use DIELECTRIC or Solder paste to ease it on. ALWAYS SOLDER

[@agnt.geraldsinclairnsa6230]

Hello: I am supposed to order LMR 400 cable for a helium minor cryptocurrency setup from the USA, but I found JB 9913 coaxial cable here in Puerto Rico. Can I exchange these two cables? and still be fine.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

Yes, you sure can. 9913 is a high quality 50 ohm cable like the LMR-400.

[@agnt.geraldsinclairnsa6230]

@@ElPasoTubeAmps Yes sir, thank you so much. I appreciate you professional help.

[@javierpolendo]

KI5GLT JAVIER FROM EL PASO TX. SUN CITY AMATEUR5 RADIO CLUB MEMBER

[@ChristiannTyler]

Is there a certain pl259 you recommend? I’m new to to the cb radio hobby picked up some lmr400 and some nice amps will end up pushing 1k watts so wanna make sure I’m using some quality components.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I buy high-end PL-259, the sliver plated and teflon type. A bit more expensive but, in my experience, worth it especially if you are going with Times brand LMR-400. You can buy off Ebay or if you want the top quality, buy from www.mouser.com. Some things from Mouser you have to buy more than one but I usually buy 10 at a time.

[@ChristiannTyler]

Okay thankyou. I have that exact coax. didn’t notice you solder the braided part of the connector I’ve seen some people skip that and just solder the tip is that what you did or did you just skip filming the soldering ?

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

In this case, I do not solder the braid - only the tip - other times I do solder the braid... I have this coax and non-soldered braid hanging 30' up in the air from a 40M Inv-V and have had no issues. Some people believe only in soldering and I can see that but I don't think it matters much. If I do chose to solder the braid, I clamp the cable in a vice and use a 325 watt Weller gun - let it get really hot - and then quickly do the soldering, rotating the coax and filling each hole. That is the way I do. Of course, if I am repairing a cable end away from the shop, it is inconvenient to stretch out extension cords, etc. so I am more likely to use the method in the video and not solder the braid. They both seem to work just fine. 73 WA4QGA

[@ChristiannTyler]

⁠@@ElPasoTubeAmpsvery interesting thanks for quick response. I had purchased coax with pre installed connectors for my vhf/uhf set up but wanted to not shy away from it again. I don’t have a soldering iron with that much wattage either so maybe I’ll go with your method. I was thinking of going with clamp or crimp on connectors but already have some amphenols and the crimp equivalent is about 50 bucks for 4 connectors or 6 bucks for some Amazon stuff I’ve never heard of before.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I have to admit, I am not a total fan of crimp-on connectors but I worked as contractor for NASA and WSMR for the first 26 years of my career and we only used crimp-on BNC with no issues. I figure if it is good enough for those guys, it must be OK. Now that I think about it, the last two years at WSMR with Lockheed, I worked on 11 GHz equipment and at those frequencies you can not use a 90 degree N connector - all the signal will be lost - rather, each bend and transition has to be done with male and barrel N connectors - yes, there is loss in each connector and connection but not total loss from the 90 degree connectors and you know they are the best to be had. The point here is, each connector, even at 11 GHz, was crimped and not soldered - for what it is worth. For HF, the PL-259 and SO-239 are perfectly good. A bit more loss at VHF and UHF but... 🙂

[@EdgarRodriguez-kk1mu]

Hi I have a question. how far can i run a 400 coax cable????

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

It depends on the frequency and the type of cable being used. About 600 feet at 14 MHz for 3 dB loss (half power) for LMR-400 Here is a great calculator: www.timesmicrowave.com/Calculator?Product=LMR-400-DB&RunLength=100&Frequency=14

[@Electrondivize]

Oh yes I have always done that way with RG58u ,It does not make sense to feed the braid through the hole of the PL259 and try solder it riski melting the braid to the center conductor.

[@javierpolendok5mhc]

I live in El Paso and my call sign is K5mhc. What’s your call sign??

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

WA4QGA I also have a lot of pictures of equipment on my QRZ page

[@javierpolendok5mhc]

@@ElPasoTubeAmps thanks and I’m the current president of W5ES

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

@@javierpolendok5mhc Hi Javier - KZbin and email is something I try to keep up with. As you can see, audio was what first got me interested in posting on YT but my passion gradually came back to amateur radio. Only so many audio amplifiers can I build. You would notice that I am into the vintage and homebrew equipment - you know, all the stuff we wanted as a kid. I have visited W5ES but it had been a while. I am not much for meetings or contests but I know they are good and not many people that I know of are into the vintage equipment and I know little about the new stuff. If I can't fix it, I probably don't want it. Good to meat you, Javier. I operate 20 and 40. Probably the only antennas I will put up as I have such limited space. Hope we meet someday. 73 WA4QGA

[@watthairston1483]

Great video but stay off that roof... Old folks don't bounce too well. 73' de K4WRF

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I had a good laugh at this one and you are right but who else am I going to get to do my antenna work? It has crossed my mind to go to Lowe's and find some tall, strong, skinny guy to go to the top of my tower. I may do just that for swapping out the dipole for the hexbeam. 73

[@Just3DPrinting]

So basically use the method every cb radio enthusiast on the planet used 40 years ago, i have never ever soldered the braid in the holes which are there to be able to see when you have screwed the pl259 on far enough not for soldering purposes...

[@user-director1]

It did not show the most delicate operation, soldering.

[@washingtonstatepicker3460]

When I do this, yhe wires tear

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I would guess you might be nicking the shield wires when you remove the outer insulation, cutting the outer jacket slightly too deep. Just my thoughts. I have seen from this video, lots of people install PL-259 connectors this way if for no other reason, so the connector can be used again without having to try and remove lots of solder.

[@rocketman221projects]

Why don't you just use the clamp on type connectors if you don't want to solder the braid?

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

That's a good question but I guess I just don't have the mechanical confidence in those crimp connections as I should. On the other hand, I do use crimp connectors for almost all of my BNC connectors.

[@truckerdaddy-akajohninqueb4793]

And you didn't solder the braid. Why?

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

The point of this is to Not have to solder the braid but ensure a good mechanical/electrical connection from the braid to the connector. Soldering the braid thru the holes is not a bad thing but it has to be done properly with a hot enough soldering gun and quickly and effectively as possible. I think the problem is very simple. Very possibly, the builder does not have an adequate soldering gun that will get hot enough to do the job before melting the dielectric of the coax and making a mess. Also, just simple experience. A newcomer to this will want to be careful and solder it slowly thus ending up with the first problem - melting (and possibly shorting) the center conductor to the shield and making a mess. This method of compression connection to the connector is the only method that is used in N connectors (and all crimp-on BNC connectors) which are generally superior to the humble PL-259. And lastly, no connection or design is forever so to make equipment stand the test of time, it must be able to be disassembled and repaired. In the 1960's and 1970's when I was working as an engineer for NASA, the idea was to make equipment last forever. Make it out of stainless steel but... make it so it could be taken apart (many times) and put back together after repair so it could work again. That concept is gone today. I am sure you know what I mean.

[@arconeagain]

It figures that you learned this from a ham. I believe LMR 400 is designed to be crimped only. And depending on what frequency of use, this could be a particularly bad technique anyway. And you are living in the 1940's with those connectors. I would never, ever again attempt to solder the shield, even on RG213. I personally use compression type plugs for 213. Just saying. I wouldn't rely on that kind of connection to the shield, nor would I put the coaxial through the vice/twisty treatment either.

[@cmdawson8868]

I've soldered thousands of PL-259s and adapters to many different types of coaxial cables for 50 years. I still have the same Weller gun used to solder all those braid connections through the holes. Tin the braid, install the connector, and once the connector is hot enough to flow solder into a hole, move very quickly to retain that initial heat as you solder the remaining holes. Once the last hole is soldered, don't touch or move the connector again until it completely cools. I used the screw-over method for a bit on personal connectors, but never had a good feeling about them. If it works, don't fix it.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I do a similar thing and I sometimes still solder the braid thru the holes in the PL-259. I use my hottest Weller soldering gun, 325 watts, clamp the cable in a vice, heat the connector up as quick as I can, solder thru the hole, turn and solder until all four holes are proper and wait until it cools and hardens. I do this for the connections that must be outside and then, of course, cover outdoor exposed connections with a generous amount of coax-seal. For indoor connections I think this non-soldered process is OK. Some people say this is not adequate as it is only metal to metal contact for the braid. So is the center male pin to the female connector and the outer threaded part screwed over the SO-239 - just metal to metal contact but it works. I do tend to "cinch" connectors a little tighter with pliers before covering them with the coax-seal for outdoor connections. There are some completely solder-less, crimpless, twist-on type connectors, both UHF and BNC, that I refuse to use. Looks like nothing but trouble to me. Thanks for your comments. 73

[@williambudd2850]

I use a spray bottle filled with some water and as soon as I solder a connection spray some water on it so that the insulator does not get all that heat and melt.

[@JasonCooper-wu1qj]

No 👎 folks rca 🔇 wire antenna handbooks Jack's antenna plug 🔌 in play😅 happy DX qrp

[@justdoingit.43]

That's not really a great discovery. I got into radio back when I was 12 years old and I'll be 55 this April. And that's how we did it with RG 8 back then

[@beaconmania]

PL 259 is very "limited" connector , just good for CB...

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I used to look at it that way also and almost always went to the trouble to use N connectors but at HF (up to 30 MHz) PL-259's and SO-239's are just as good. I have read and done my own personal measurements and they are literally "perfect" in impedance (50 ohms) to at least 100 MHz and completely usable to 250 MHz. I remember the first time I started getting interested in the PL-259/SO-239 vs N connectors was probably 35 years or more ago and I made some dummy loads but did not have the test equipment to evaluate them so I took them to the cal lab at WSMR where I worked and the old fellow asked me if I was trying to perfect the short circuit... He was kidding with me, of course, but 3/4 inch copper water pipe, SO-239 and carbon resistors for a low power dummy load tested quite well to about 250 MHz before stray L and C made them unusable for accurate measurements. Also interesting that they are sometimes referred as "UHF" connectors but I think that is a hangover from about 100 years ago when 30 MHz was way-up-there... I found for the HF range, the curse of the PL-259 was soldering the shield thru those four little holes. Sometimes I made it really nice, using something like a 250 watt Weller soldering gun to heat it up quickly so as not to slowly melt the dielectric but it is so easy to get bits of solder in the threads and it just becomes a hit-and-miss event to make a "perfect" job. Even in the top-notch N connector world where everything has to work with minimal loss in the GHz region, the connection to the shield is a mechanical crimp connection and not soldered. Anyway, this seems to work nicely and I have been using it for some time and see that the mechanical connection is very tight and I think a lot less likely to break than the solder method. Lastly, in a little more defense of the humble SO-239 and RG-8 size cable, I believe the voltage rating, in case we want to use it for HV connections between a separate PS and amplifier is around 4 KV DC. I find that pretty impressive for such a simple connector. Thanks for your comments. Always appreciated. 73 WA4QGA

[@athertop]

Agree with ElPaso - Yaesu HF radios come with so239 sockets (for pl259 plugs), and my new Yaesu FT991a has the so239 on the HF side and the n-type for the vhf/uhf antenna connection. If a pl259 plug is good enough for the high end radio manufacturers, then it's good enough for us mere mortals.

[@JasonCooper-wu1qj]

To much nonsense 😔 to RCA plugs end to end 😔 see ppl on video climbing 🤯 towrs fixed coax connector plug in play system

[@JR-lx8nn]

Um ... I disagree. I recommend following the manufacturer's instructions instead. Screwing/forcing the connector on over the braid cuts and breaks the bread, and pushes it back, so all you see through the little holes is the foil over the inner dielectric ... and, yes, you need to solder through the holes, as this a) makes electrical continuity between connector and braid, and b) weather seals the connector to avoid wicking water up the braid when it gets wet. I do not recommend screwing/forcing the connector over the braid as illustrated herein - it can break and cut the braid and keep it from reaching the little solder holes. Another case of good intentions, but poor advice - I do not think he is better informed than the engineers who made the cable or the connector. but that is just MY take ... your mileage may vary. TT

[@MrPlytiger]

anything you build (usa made)will be around long after you are gone , not like the cheap china crap these days

[@rustylimbo]

This is how I have done this for years. Never understood the soldering of the braid through the holes...There is no need to fold back the entire length of braid either. You can cut that about half way back (or almost where you cut the Dielectric) and then its easier to un-weave and fold it back, then screw on the connector.

[@ElPasoTubeAmps]

I soldered the braid for a lot of years. I found it necessary that, if solder is the objective, I had to use the hottest soldering gun I have - I think 325 watts - clamp the cable in a vice - get the soldering gun as hot as it is going to get and try to get a corner of the solder tip sort of down in the hole so that the braid and the PL-259 is heated at the same time - and use a medium size solder - once the solder flows into the hole and braid - quickly rotate 90 degrees and repeat for all four holes. With a little luck and not so much solder that it flows into the threads, it can turn out good but it can be hit-and-miss also. Takes skill and the right tools and, as mentioned, a little luck to get it really nice and even so, outside in the elements, it doesn't seem to last any longer and the connector is not worth the time to get all the solder off to reuse it. The military and commercial world would never attempt the solder technique. Even multi-GHz "N" connectors use a compression connection for the braid. To each their own... 73