How to make an Amazing 3 element Moxon Antenna for the 10m band, PART-1.

[@TheSmokinApe]

Tons of great information in this video, great job Chuck 👍

[@digitalanaloguehamradio]

Great attention to detail on the build mate impressive

[@hagei406]

We used to have a 3 Ele 20M wire moxon hanging between trees.. fantastic towards one single direction from low height ( 8 mtrs. ) . It was modelled with 4nec2 and worked perfect.

[@Siskiyous6]

I like your attention to the details in this video Chuck. I am deck envious, you have a sail loft, antennas do take up some room.

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

@Siskiyous6, Thanks I tried something a bit different, it's hard to include everything but I did try to get more in this video on the actual build, thanks for the comment and watching!

[@don_n5skt]

Great build Chuck. Can't wait to see how this is finished and how it works on the air.

[@PatAutrey]

very cool - never seen a moxon w a director before, good stuff!

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Pat it's a first for me , I hope it works!

[@PatAutrey]

@@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures If those numbers are right, a 16 DB antenna is no joke! I know you would normally orient the antenna horizontally like a dipole but I wonder if you were to turn it 90° so that it were facing upward whether or not it would be a good NVIS antenna?

[@garyp123]

​@@PatAutrey, 10 meters is too high frequency for NVIS. Signal will shoot right into space. In the non-tropics, NVIS is most commonly used on 40/80 meters. (Might get 30m to work in some pockets of the tropics) Some SSB satellites use 10m or 15m for up/down links though! Could use it pointed skyward for that, maybe, if you could come up with a tracking rotor system...

[@PatAutrey]

@@garyp123 good point Gary - was just thinking about the idea as a possibility - but I now see that NVIS freqs would be much larger antennas and impracticle for a MOXON

[@PatAutrey]

Looking forward to your next follow-on video!

[@the_mad_swimbaiter455]

Thanks Chuck. Always great to learn a new build!

[@nouveausocratic1884]

Based on my NEC modeling of a Moxon, adding a third element is probably not worth the effort or cost. A Moxon has approximately 12dB of directional gain. Adding a third element might add another 1-2 dB at best. The point: check your simulations and decide if the incremental addition is worth it for you. The advantage of a two element Moxon is it's simplicity for the gain you get.

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

It is hard to do

[@temporarilyoffline]

Waiting for part 2!!

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Me too!

[@wordwalker3]

When I've worked with braided kevlar I will mark the line where I want to cut then lightly coat both sides of the mark with rubber cement type adhesive. Allow it to dry and then cut. It gives a non fray end like on shoe laces, no need to buy crimpers. You pretty much need to glue before you cut to prevent fraying.

[@dan_in_sd]

Awesome Chuck. Nicely produced video. ;)

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Thanks Dan, it takes more time but hope it's worth it to the viewers.

[@gac231]

The dimensions between bare copper and PVC isolated wire antennas are expected to change a bit as the isolated wire has a velocity factor of ~0.95

[@MM0OPXFieldRadio]

Really helpful Chuck. This is similar to the links I have on the Hex using the 2mm Mastrant cord I have here. I need to get some of those crimps and a crimper. Look forward to the finished article 👍

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

I have it up but still tweaking things , but the swr is totally usable but lower than I want but that's good.

[@davidgettman4695]

Very interesting video Chuck. Thanks

[@DM85FOTO]

@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures A handy tip for working with kevlar braid (and similar heat resistant cordage) is run a few dabs of superglue/ca along the cord where you want to cut it (so your cut point lands in the middle of the glue line), give it a quick squirt of activator and then cut the line in the middle of the now hard glue run. It bonds the fibres tight so your freshly snipped end doesn't fray, making it much easier to thread into the heatshrink/ferrule or any holes you want to thread it through. I find the thinner types of superglue work best as they wick in immediately and don't add bulk to the diameter of the cord. If you specifically want to add bulk to the cord ends however, you can sprinkle the wet glue with sodium bicarbonate from the baking supplies instead of using spray activator. Hope this helps, enjoy your videos across the pond here in the UK! 73's, David MW7KAX

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Thats great info, I think my super glue activates with water, I will try it!

[@southboundsuarez9832]

​@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures Yes I was going to reccomend glue for control of the fray. I wanted to say that kevlar is so much superior than paracord because it has very little to actually no stretch compared to the paracord. With measurement being critical, (and fact that I like everything super guitar string taunt!) The ability to not degrade and get all loosey goosey. Final comment regarding kevlar line is that another trait is the fact thatbit is abraisive and will wear thru things, especially itself and especially knots . A trick is to utilize a sheath of woven dacron tubing. Utilize the woven sheath limevyou might utilize a traditional thimble when using metal cable like on guyline shackled ect....

[@ozone385]

Chuck you always have good videos about antennas, Thanks. You might try a piece of tape where you want to make a cut on that cord.

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

@ozone385, I'll try that thanks!

[@LeeMcc_KI5YPR]

Chuck, do you have a link for the silicone wire?

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Oh thanks I forgot to add it I will now, Lee it's above in the description.

[@therandomwire1]

Looks interesting. Can't wait to see part 2. Link for the kevlar string?

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Sorry I added it in the description, Thanks for heads up and checking out the video!

[@TimRedman]

Another way to get that loop to go through the ferrule is to use a short piece of light mono. Make your loop in the rope, and loop the mono through the loop in the rope. The ends of the mono are much easier to thread through the ferrule, and act similarly to a cable snake. Once both ends of the mono are through, pull the ends until the rope loop comes through the ferrule.

[@michaelrogers3078]

Perhaps try a drop of glue where the cord is cut? Possibly super glue. Let it dry for a few minutes before cutting. Should keep the ends from fraying. 73 N4MJR

[@earlbrown525]

Thanks for all your informative videos. We should get together for coffee sometime or have a QSO. You are practically a neighbor at only 5.7 miles away. Earl WB6JAF

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

We could do that someday Earl, thanks for watching!

[@phildurall7466]

Love the attention to detail of fabricating the cords and elements Chuck. 73 - KF6IF

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Thanks Phil!

[@de_w8tam]

I realize it's very unlikely this is going to be permanently installed, nor make much use of the 400lb test nature of that kevlar cord.... but in case anyone is thinking about leaving their kevlar cord outside for a long time. Kevlar is UV sensitive. It starts out that yellow color, and turns brown in the Sun. Once it's turned brown it's lost over 1/2 it's strength. Looking forward to the build details on this one. I'll likely build one! Looking at the archived website, I noticed this: "Tf cable 2x 6.79m, 75 ohm with v.f. 0,66. '. Is this to be fed with 75 ohm coax, or is that the phasing for the stack of two of them? 73 de w8tam

[@apburner]

I dip the end in candle wax and then make it into a point.

[@MartinSellschopp]

why not use a lighter to burn through the rope. Wet your finger before you touch it. Then you don't need superglue.

[@ronpetroski7203]

Chick Norris of antennas!!!!

[@503Nick]

Good morning

[@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures]

Good Morning!