How to make Mexican Vanilla & Storax Accords (Perfumery)

[@laurenbray8314]

Mexican vanilla accord. That's a good one! I've been thinking about how to make different types of vanillas lately too.

[@sammacer]

Yes, do try it!

[@sammacer]

While we're on the Mexican theme, big congrats to Sergio Pérez on P3 in the Turkish Grand Prix this weekend!

[@lioneldiaz2766]

Hey Sam! Thank you for your contributions to this community! It would be AMAZING if you can make a pear accord, it's really difficult to find a tutorial with the knowledges of the materials like you show on your channel!

[@sammacer]

I would love to but I don't know when I will get round to it! In the meantime, Jean Claude Ellena recommends Fructone + Geraniol + Hexyl acetate. I would also add that cis-3-hexenyl cis-3-hexanoate is very pear smelling. Hope this helps!

[@lioneldiaz2766]

​@@sammacer You really do! I'll try your recommendation, greetings from Buenos Aires!

[@ronmiller7248]

Sam, i made my 1st accord last week and pretty happy with it. By biggest problem was dilutions. So what I ended up doing and there were about 10 materials, was to predulute every material using the ifra formula concentration percentages for fragrances. Materials like patchouli i diluted to 20% but those where the guidelines had then at a few percent or less i diluted to that amount. I feel that as a beginner dilutions are the biggest hurdle. After all if an accord is a building block used in a perfume when you use it you have to know it's contents and their percentages to not exceed guidelines. Another question is whether you dilute the accord itself after mixing or leave it at 100%.

[@sammacer]

Hi Ron. Maybe you are getting things mixed up a little. For the IFRA limits, all that matters is the final percentage in your formula, rather than the percentage of the dilutions you use to make your formula. For this I use my app, Formulair, which highlights entries over the limit in red automatically, but you could equally calculate the percentage in each entry manually or on a spreadsheet and then compare to a list of IFRA limits you've written down before hand. As for dilutions, I like to keep everything at 10% and 1% for like-for-like comparison and less confusion later on. You can use the ones you made of course, just calculating the percentages becomes more difficult. With the final accord you can either keep it at its natural concentration or dilute further depending on the use case. Hope this helps :)

[@elizabethbarnfield6469]

Thanks for the new video! I was really excited when I saw this one was about storax-is the incense you love that crumbly, black storax, by any chance? I’m absolutely in love with black storax also, and I just recently stumbled into an accord that’s the closest I’ve ever come to approximating it in perfumery. Funnily, I also used a lot of vanilla and coumarin, but the materials that tipped it over into storax territory to me was a touch of balsam fir absolute and a lot of cedar materials. I think I’ll track down some cinnamyl alcohol to try next! Happy to compare notes if you like-black storax definitely doesn’t get enough love.

[@sammacer]

Yes, that's exactly the stuff! I would love to see your version of it. I don't have fir basalm but I do have pine needle absolute, I wonder if it's similar. Email me at [e-mail] if you would like to share notes on it!

[@mauricebecneljr3604]

Your knowledge, insight, and generosity are amazing! and you have great hands. I love that you share your experience/skills with us.

[@sammacer]

Thank you :)

[@mauricebecneljr3604]

@@sammacer I have purchased so many new raw materials based on your vids....thank you for sharing.

[@sammacer]

@@mauricebecneljr3604 Hopefully you have liked them!

[@BoriSSon-Malikov]

Thank you Sam, you doing a great job!

[@bryantiamson5704]

What do you do with the blends you’re not happy with? Currently, I’ve completely skipped Jean Carles’ method for two reasons: 1) I am busy with school so it’d be hard to do a deep self study of perfumery and 2) I don’t know what to do with the previous trial blends. Do I just clean out the bottle? Anyways, I’ve just been making perfumes without any deep study of blending because I’ve been busy with school and I can’t wait until I can actually go deep and blend things carefully, but it’s been fun to do it the inefficient way, too

[@sammacer]

I wouldn't say you need to stick precisely to Jean Carles; I would just say be iterative and methodical. I'm busy with work too so I don't get much time either to be honest. If you're really intent on learning, the best thing I can recommend is to set aside 1 hour each day for making a couple of trials and then evaluate them at another point in the day. And yeah most trials blends don't work out - just make a note of them and then wash them out :) Good luck!

[@barriehemming1189]

cinnamic aldehyde might be nice also. Great vids...

[@RFinkle2]

I completely missed why the vanillin jumped from 1% in your Mexican Vanilla accord to 10% in the storax accord. Why the huge increase in concentration?

[@sammacer]

Oh, so basically I added perfumer's alcohol to re-dilute it - this just allowed me to create enough space in the formula to add the cinnamyl alcohol while keeping the other percentages the same. See the percentage on the right hand side. You can think of it as 'splitting' the 1% dilution into a 10% dilution and some extra perfumer's alcohol.

[@15days-u1q]

Hey sam, im wondering why you dilute things down to 1% even with not so loud materials like vanillin?

[@sammacer]

Since those are the concentration they would be present in a real perfume so it’s a useful reference

[@superaak]

Thank you for sharing experiences. 👍

[@sammacer]

No problem

[@fragranceprofile9657]

I really appreciate your content!! Cheers

[@sammacer]

Thanks!

[@IICARUSMUSIC]

hey sam, thanks for the video. i have a question regarding formulair〜 so i have made some accords/bases from my raw materials list, is it possible to then use these accords in formulas i can’t seem to piece them together to make a full fragrance. would i need to input the accord/base as a ‘raw material’ and use accordingly? thanks joseph

[@sammacer]

Hey! So you are exactly correct - you need to input it as a separate base. Currently there’s no way to treat formulas as raw materials unfortunately. I recommend putting “formula xyz” in the cas number field for the raw material so you can easily remember what to search for and maybe put the formula in a special category

[@mybad4101]

I just recently used cinnamyl alcohol to get a creamy effect (beside Isobutavan and isobutyl phenyl acetate). However, cinnamyl acetate might also work for your project, because it has these spicy nuances as well.

[@PhiI93]

Isobutavan is a lovely material. Smells like tirimasu out the bottle.

[@robertgreisberg9428]

Yes, and also a white chocolate vibe. Unfortunately pretty expensive.

[@sammacer]

Thanks for the tips guys. I've heard isobutavan pop up as recommended though I have never smelled it or cinnamyl acetate.

[@PhiI93]

@@sammacer it's £6 for 10g on Pellwall atm. Great price.

[@sammacer]

@@PhiI93 Thanks for letting me know

[@christieo1761]

Hi Sam, Is Cinnamyl Acetate the same as Cinnamyl Alcohol?

[@sammacer]

No, they're different! If you watch my video on acetates, you'll see how cinnamyl acetate is the acetate version of cinnamyl alcohol

[@justwaitwatch6092]

Please sir share A of formula perfume EDP and edt How much should I add ethanol , fragrance, distilled water ? Example ethanol 80% Fragrance 18% Dist water 2% It is correct for EDP perfume spray

[@sammacer]

You can use the following as a rough guide: EDP - 22% Fragrance, 78% Ethanol EDT - 14% Fragrance, 86% Ethanol

[@justwaitwatch6092]

@@sammacer dear sir Distilled water doesn't require in perfumes

[@sammacer]

@@justwaitwatch6092 Nope

[@Badarkhalil999]

sam i have charabot and surrati company oil,s which is called attar .. now please tell me how to make perfume using only perfume oil,s

[@sammacer]

Sorry but I don't understand

[@Badarkhalil999]

@@sammacer oil based perfume

[@webmasterultra3487]

Thank you, you are the best.

[@sammacer]

Thanks!

[@federicoscquizzato8359]

Do you know what is the maximum amount of perfume oil allowed in a fragrance ? I thought it was 40% until Amouage released Interlude 53. I'm searching everywhere an answer on the net but couldn't find anything regarding the maximum oil allowed

[@sammacer]

There is no maximum concentration as long as you're within the legal limits for and restricted components in your country

[@federicoscquizzato8359]

@@sammacer Is there a particular reason, rather than costs, on why most of the brands never use more than say 25-30% of oil concentration ?

[@sammacer]

@@federicoscquizzato8359 Well it will get sticky on the skin after that, and there is really no reason for a well composed perfume to be any stronger as it should already smell strong enough. The alcohol is important in the evaporation too

[@not_hardcore]

storax from Brazil

[@sammacer]

The “black storax” I was talking about is apparently Greek

[@tamlin420]

Formulair for Windows when? ;)

[@sammacer]

Probably not in the next year unfortunately but rest assured I'm still looking at it!

[@khatriopticians9838]

Good noon dear u are very intelligent. Your experience is lovely 😘😘👌👌👍

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@khatriopticians9838]

@@sammacer welcome 🤝😘😘

[@newworldstream1259]

Hi, what should I buy to start I mean oils and other. Maybe this list is fine?? Amber black, Bitter orange, Bergamot, Turmaline, IOS E Super, Linen, Mirra, Rose, Cedrus, Nenuphar, Cumarine, c18, Lime, Galaxolide IFF Or it is too much or wrong??

[@sammacer]

Check out the list I made in this video for my recommendation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpnEmq16nLhjj5Y

[@thiagoribeiropereira3229]

I would add a little heliotropin to the Mexican vanilla chord

[@sammacer]

I haven't got any but someone else suggested it so you could be on to something!

[@not_hardcore]

⬛🔲 Lady Gaga fame perfume black fluid 🔲⬛