Traditional FOUGÈRE accords in PERFUMERY

My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
01:13 - History fougère perfumes
06:27 - Basic structure of a fougère
10:57 - Developing the accord
24:28 - Final formula
Videos I made on the raw materials in the fougère accord:
Salicylates - • Synthetics in perfumer...
Coumarin - • Famous molecules in pe...
Aromatic herbs (including lavender) - • Learning Perfumery: Ar...
Woods (including oakmoss) - • Learning Perfumery: Wo...
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn

[@dhperfumes3524]

This is a great video, Sam. What I appreciate is that you show your failures in testing as well as your successes. It really gives the true sense of what it's like to be composing where you can spend a whole day going down the wrong path and needing to hit the reset button on all that time. What I also enjoy is your methodical approach. It's great to see the injection of logic into the creative process.

[@sammacer]

Thank you! Especially since I never do more than one iteration a day you could say it’s a week of failures 😂. The methodical approach inspires me and ultimately I find less frustrating.

[@curioclassicperfumeguide]

Another excellent video. Looking forward to seeing more! Congratulations ...Keep up the great work !

[@madhulikarcchabi]

excellent video Sam. Especially your approach towards multiple experiments.

[@sammacer]

Thank you!

[@FragabyPerfume]

Hey Sam! Thanks for all your advice and instructive videos on perfumery. They are really helpful. I was trying different formulas and using the Grojsman accord, and will also try the Fougere accord. Greetings from California!

[@sammacer]

Greetings to you in California! No problem, good luck :)

[@nams37]

The part when you describe the result of the trial blend so informative . I hope in future make this kind of topic mix some oils acord ( essential) and describe it . thank you

[@hichouification]

thank you for talking about the history. very insightful

[@sammacer]

No problem! I think it's always useful to understand these things in context

[@justchefmack4188]

Another great video

[@sammacer]

Cheers!

[@33k33k]

Fantastic video! Bravo

[@sammacer]

Thank you

[@nams37]

I split the screen and i open the note app to follow you sir . Thank you so mush

[@sammacer]

I'm glad - for sure that's the best way to get the most out of the video!

[@daniellabuda7744]

I am about to start working on my first perfume. I decided to focus on rose theme, I want to create a rose perfume that is quite functional and versatile, that could be worn by both man and woman. I struggle with it, because I want to create a balanced perfume, fresh and light, maybe also slightly green. I want to avoid receiving a formulation, that would smell overly feminine. So you can discuss the rose accord in details, Sam. Fantastic series, as always. Cheers.

[@MrDigitalWorks]

For me the soapyness in this kind of formulas comes from the mix of Lavender and Geranium (missing here). Have to try your formula, thanks for sharing!

[@sidanx7887]

I think the accord was to be the olfactory reflection of freshness, color etc in the representation the fern not the literal smell of it - see Roga Dove remarks on the accord - it is my favorite especially in the 90s Abercrombie releases before Fierce - very nostalgic to me it hold the top spot for my love of fragrance- loving your videos and learning with you

[@JT-rx1eo]

As a lover of fougeres (as a wearer, not a perfumer), I had developed the opinion that they could be separated into a "classic" fougere and a "barbershop" fougere. Where the barbershop fougere had a bit of the classic's earthy accords replaced by soapy or powdery accords. I deveoped that perception after having tried so many fougeres. Don't know how right or wrong that is, but that's my sense of it.

[@user-iu5pe7xz2j]

This is currently quite useful in my case, as I am making a fougere perfume but in a more oriental style

[@sammacer]

Good luck with it - hopefully it's going well?

[@user-iu5pe7xz2j]

​@@sammacer Thank you. Yes, the main theme is good, now I just need to keep refining the formula to get the most out of it

[@TheSimuzz]

Very interesting video; I actually like how you walk us through your multiple iteration of an accord. Just wondering why you went the flowery route instead of going more green when you cut down the coumarin and oakmoss. Would have been curious to see how it would have gone with more green/leafy material: basil, sage, cis 3 hexanol, etc.

[@sammacer]

I love that idea since I prefer those materials myself! But I haven't explored florals as much as I should have, and I get the feeling they're more popular / generic so I thought I would try that to learn.

[@nams37]

Thank you sir

[@sammacer]

You're welcome

[@mohammedmiah2435]

I replaced amyl salicylate with wintergreen EO. And I found it to work really well, this is what I came up with: Lavender 14 Bergamot 8 Coumarone 12 Bulgarian Rose 5 Jasmine 4 Patchouli 2 Vetiver 10 Geranium 2 Wintergreen 3 Oakmoss 6

[@curlyhairdudeify]

You should try mint EO (Mentha piperita). It is softer, rounder, and much more delicate.

[@andyrnb4923]

I recently got some lavender absolute from harry and have found that I prefer using this, with some dihydromyrcenol, to the EO. I find the terpy elements of the EO clash with other materials. Kephalis is another material that works well, filling in the herbal notes of both the lavender and oakmoss, and helping with the tobacco aspect of the latter.

[@sammacer]

That's a lovely idea - I had it on my shopping list a while back but forgot about it. This is a great reminder to buy it. I hadn't thought about using kephalis but I can see it working for sure - thanks for the suggestion!

[@andyrnb4923]

@@sammacer The absolute is way more coumarinic, so you do need to consider that.

[@laurenbray8314]

oh yeah the absolute is so much nicer. I got some recently of French lavender absolute. Its almost gourmand, you can do so many things with it.

[@sammacer]

@@laurenbray8314 Fantastic!

[@sammacer]

@@andyrnb4923 Thanks for the heads up

[@peewee678]

Thanks for the video! Have you thought about using Lavender Absolute instead? I was experimenting with a Fougère/Chypre hybrid accord recently but I thought the Lavender was quite sharp and soapy (mind you: I don't have a lot of experience and maybe the two Lavender oils that I own are of lower quality). So I ordered some Lavender Abs, got it yesterday and smelling it out of the bottle it's a lot nicer than oil! No sharpness at all and still *very much* Lavender. I have to do some smelling on the strips yet but I think this will be my go to Lavender (maybe mixed with L. oils and/or some Lavandin oil). A (potential) bonus of the absolute is that it's also a middle and base note.

[@sammacer]

Fantastic idea - I had been meaning to pick some up but didn't get around to it yet. Thanks for giving me another reason to :D

[@LittleDanishMiners]

Also, the absolute is a lot more coumarinic.

[@peewee678]

@@LittleDanishMiners Indeed! I smelled it on a blotter now and I definitely will use this in my Fougère accord(s) together with Lavender Oil to get the best of both worlds. BTW: there's also a slight mint note in my absolute. It's really lovely stuff.

[@hichouification]

Add one drop of water in each accord, water stretch the molecules. It is a natural fixative and push the oils out (silage). Water is magic, bonus point if you use zamzam water

[@sammacer]

Haha what is zamzam water?

[@hichouification]

@@sammacer Search for zamzam water experiments, especially the electric experiment. Basically it conduct the electricity and connect the ions and molecules, it might help in cutting the rough edges.

[@nams37]

@@sammacer sir sam i gues zamzam a water from saudi arabia

[@HiltonBoenosAires]

4:31 what is the name of the perfume you mentioned?

[@ObsidianK9Academy]

Great video sam!! Any alternatives to the Amyl Salicylate? Not one I’ve got in the collection!

[@dhperfumes3524]

Try another salicylate? Benzyl, Ethyl, Hexyl or Phenyl Ehtyl? However these will all give off a different character and won't be the same as amyl. You could also try another blender like Hedione or Iso E Super, but again, will not be an exact substitute for amyl salicylate.

[@sammacer]

Not really to be honest! Amyl salicylate has a unique character which is key to the fougere genre. That said, you might be able to use benzyl salicylate as a first approximation if you have that but it will not be the samd

[@sammacer]

@Hedione HC Nice idea - I recently got cis-3-hexenyl salicylate and haven't successfully used it yet

[@ObsidianK9Academy]

@@sammacer Thanks Sam!! Will get some ordered! :D

[@sammacer]

@@ObsidianK9Academy Nice!

[@drgnzadiel101]

Nice video! Question, if, for example, an accord had 1 part orange, 1 part lavender, and 1 part nutmeg, would 3 drops of that accord equal 3 drops of orange, 3 drops of lavender, and 3 drops of nutmeg?

[@sammacer]

You have the right idea, but not quite. Firstly it would be in weight not drops, and secondly 3 + 3 + 3 = 9 of the accord total, not 3. Good luck!

[@jotsntittles5783]

Will you be providing a browser app/extension? I don't use my phone for anything online

[@sammacer]

Potentially in the future but it's not possible right now!

[@JayMannStuff]

Very nice video, Sam. Just curious: could you please make a video for the other fragrance families, like Chypre or Blue?

[@sammacer]

Thank you Jay! Yeah - I was planning on doing Chypre at some point so stay tuned for that. As for Blue, I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean perfumes featuring aquatic materials like calone, or do you mean fresh modern fougeres like Davidoff Cool Water?

[@JayMannStuff]

@@sammacer For blue fragrances, I mean those hyper-versatile fragrances inspired by Bleu de Chanel or Dior Sauvage. Typically they have ginger, Citrus, Woody notes, pink pepper. It's a more abstract fragrance family, I think. Very modern. I do feel like I'd like to see you just have fun creating a base formula on camera. Like, "modern men's Citrus, woodsy Aquatic fragrance". Or "simple shower gel fragrance formula". Like, just turn on the camera, unscripted, just throw around some ideas and then start mixing. Like, I'd love to see you just creatively come up with an idea on the spot and just try to make it work. Not anything super-researched, just for fun.

[@sammacer]

@@JayMannStuff Ahh yes, okay. Bleu de Chanel seems to be a modern aquatic fougere, so something like that could come up in a 'modern' follow up to this 'traditional' fougere video. As for creating a base on camera - I'm not sure how it would work. This is because unlike people who just start blending, my method is quite different: First I spend time thinking about a formula and writing it, which might be 5 - 10 minutes. Then I go and find the raw materials which takes up to 10 minutes. Then I make any dilutions I'm missing which could take 10 minutes. Finally I make the trial which takes 5 minutes. Then I usually leave the bottle until later on to smell while my nose has a break from the olfactory fatigue incurred from the blending process. Therefore, I'm not sure if this would really be interesting to watch, all for one trial idea. What do you think?

[@JayMannStuff]

@@sammacer I'd still like to see it. Maybe edited down a bit, to include the most relevant parts?

[@sammacer]

@@JayMannStuff Okay nice idea - so maybe a video on my process?

[@lokeshadhikar8614]

I want to learn basic of perfumery from you can you suggest me any link form your videos where I found

[@sammacer]

kzbin.infovideos

[@Mufasa-co3hp]

Hi Bro. How are you ? Please make a perfume formula Cool Water Davidoff for women Thanks

[@hichouification]

Lavander is the king of the forest