How to Make Perfume like Terre d’Hermes

Today I blend a formula from a 2011 patent that could be a classic masterpiece for men.
Firmenich Patent:
patents.google.com/patent/US9...
Check out Perfume Archaeology on Instagram:
/ perfume.archaeology
Formula:
2000 - ISO E Super
400 - Hedione
140 - Patchouli
130 - Bergamot
130 - Cedarwood, Virginia
120 - Linalyl Acetate
100 - Vetiver, Haiti
80 - Coranol
80 - Hydroxycitronellal
70 - Citronellol
70 - Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde
70 - Lemon
70 - Magnolan
60 - Ambrox Super
60 - Cedrol
50 - Benzoin 50%
50 - Exaltolide Total
50 - Florol
50 - Pink Pepper
40 - Cedarwood Atlas
40 - Lilial
40 - Rose de Mai Abs
20 - Elemi Oil
20 - Orange
20 - Veramoss
10 - Dodecanal 10%
10 - Geranium
10 - Rhubofix
10 - Styrallal Acetate
TOTAL - 4000
#Perfumer #Perfumery #Perfume #Cologne #FragComm #DIYPerfume

[@nemuriyagi]

I love watching these! as a fragrance collector its fascinating to see them broken down into its individual ingredients and have you describe what those singular elements are like! The videos also have an amazing calming and soothing nature to them, wonderful stuff!

[@Marques330]

The bob ross of perfumery

[@tilmonreeves6275]

Great info Ryan. I made this today with some alterations by necessity. I added 33% Timbersilk, 66% IES because I did not have cedrol. Replaced linalyl acetate with Bulgarian lavender. No magnolan so subbed geraniol and lilyflore. No ambroxan super so used ambermax and ambrofix to make up for lacking cedrol. Used sandalwood accord from creating perfume for cedrol. Went heavy on pink pepper to make up for not having elemi. Added lemongrass to fake elemi. Rose givco in place of de Mais. Heavy on Fraterworks orange. Used raspberry ketone, Fraterworks Gardenia J Ellis, and Paradisamide at 10% to mimic rhubofix and styrallal acetate. Used patchouli co2 but increased Fraterworks styrax. This is absolutely amazing. Soooo light and perfect. I can’t wait for a week to go by. Thank you Ryan. I am going to make another right now.

[@RyanParfums]

Those are some serious substitutions! I'm happy to hear that the batch you made ended up well. Sometimes when I substitute, I never know if the output is going to be good or not. :-/ It's always worth experimenting though.

[@noahwantoch751]

Very creative substitutions! I don't think it smells like Terre, but hopefully you've created a Terre-like perfume with a unique touch to it :)

[@waleedlyrics]

Dear Ryan hope u put all ur social link in description and mention viewers to subscribe and follow ur channel.coz u disservice more ❤

[@noahwantoch751]

Nice video! I am very interested on how you properly store your mats, you have many materials just at room temperature so I guess they are just the dilutions? I and maybe some other beginners would be grateful for a video on that topic! :) Keep it up!

[@RyanParfums]

I will add this to the video idea list :-)

[@TheMindfulJourney-gr9bl]

I do love how you take your time line by line AND showing your formula too. Thank you, very generous.

[@Verdant02]

These are fascinating to watch and very well put together!

[@bassmjm]

Definitely one of my favorite fragrances. Interesting that there are no ionones in the formula, which go so well with vetiver connotations.

[@slimjimjames9399]

Tried this out didn't have the cedrol so substituted it with cedramber ...it took away the sharpness of the formula but close enough...thank you keep up the great work 👍👍👍🌟🌟🌟

[@RyanParfums]

Interesting! I wonder how the Cedramber smells in the formula!

[@cesar4801]

Loved the video, thank you, Ryan! Did you try the Synarome formula?

[@RyanParfums]

Yes I did. I made it back in September of 2023. It opens very much like Terre d'Hermes. However, as it has aged, it has changed a bit. The formula in this video is amazing.

[@KTLehman75_Fragrance]

Hey Ryan, Love your videos. You've made me want to begin the journey into fragrance making. I'll be a while, looking for funds...LOL. While I'm waiting are there any sources/books you recommend reading to get a better base knowledge of the elements used in creation? Thanks, Toby

[@RyanParfums]

Thanks, Toby. A tried and true book for new perfumers is The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Elena. Basenotes has a great DIY forum that’s fun to peruse. Sam Magee also has a great discord server called “Fragrance Foundry”.

[@arsis1102]

Not long ago it was hard to find channels like this the only close was Peter. Maybe someday something from cdg?? I know those white bottles Keep the great content coming,cheers

[@RyanParfums]

I will keep an eye out for a formula :-)

[@arsis1102]

@@RyanParfums that would be amazing Kyoto incense series cough cough hahaha anything from cdg would be awesome. Again amazing job with your channel.

[@iProFIFA]

I am a total newb, thinking of maybe getting in perfumery - so one question. Why did you say you don't want a 20% concentration but would like to dile it down to 15% (in the beginning)? Wouldn't 20% mean the fragrance smells the same but more intense, with higher projection and with better longevity - which for a fresh/summery fragrance like TdH would be awesome? Or do these formulas only work for a certain concentration and if it's too high the whole composition smells off?

[@RyanParfums]

When I’m working with an EDT fragrance (Terre d’Hermes was and remains an EDT), my default is 15% concentrate. Higher projection, longevity… maybe. But what’s the consequence? Take it to a more extreme level: what would happen if we did a 50% concentrate? It might last a long time, but we’d get choked out, overpowered by the fragrance. To your point, formulas tend to work with a specific concentration. This is often why an EDP flanker of an EDT is reformulated to work at the higher concentration.

[@AdminAdministrator-t4q]

Td'H is a bit of a favorite of mine. People often refer to the "Flint" note in it. Looking at this formula, What material or materials would provide that??

[@RyanParfums]

I’ve never smelled flint, so I can’t say :-)

[@granitdautaj1131]

What does 2000 Iso E Super or Hedione 400 stands for, is it mg or what, am sorry am new in this, got inspired by how you do things and how you explaine

[@RyanParfums]

All formulas are expressed in terms of “parts by weight”. That means that the numbers can be grams, pounds, kilos, tons, etc., so long as it is uniform across ingredients.

[@granitdautaj1131]

​@@RyanParfums thank you so much, respect 💪🤝

[@Majidperfume]

Aldehyde c12 isnt in your formula that wrote in your caption but you add...

[@RyanParfums]

Good catch! Pop quiz: what’s another name for Dodecenal? 😀

[@Majidperfume]

Right, sorry 🫣

[@TalesoftheMidnightrealm]

why do you use 10% dilutions of all your materials?

[@RyanParfums]

For a few reasons. But the main one is that it’s more cost effective when experimenting. Some things I have dilutions at 1%. And some (like Methyl Octine Carbonate) I have diluted as low as 0.1%. It just depends on how easy the material is to work with, and what the typical usage amount for that material is for a 5g - 10g sample.

[@Romantico1962]

So those are essential oils? I know vetiver, lavender, patchouli, but the other ingredients don't seem to be organic or just a synthetic fragrance? Like most perfumes are synthetic. Just wondering

[@RyanParfums]

This formula is a mix. There are some natural materials (e.g. cedarwood, vetiver), some individual molecules that are found in naturals (e.g. cedrol, citronellol), and some molecules that are not found in nature (e.g. florol, magnolan). Most perfumes are majority synthetic. Some are entirely synthetic. A minuscule number of perfumes (mostly done by independent artisan perfumers) are created 100% from essential oils and extracts.