How to make Simple Drawers - quick and easy

[@shutupack5389]

Just getting into woodworking. Your speech and presentation is 10/10!! These videos are such a pleasure to watch.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

You are very kind. Cheers. Peter

[@markjervis8558]

What a simple yet very effective method of making drawers. Great stuff Peter...

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Mark, Many thanks. My friend David deserves the kudos. Cheers. Peter

[@gbwildlifeuk8269]

Mark Jervis method is well known and widely used. Every drawer in every kitchen and almost every piece of self assembly furniture with a drawer in it. The difference of course is the sawing and for that you dont actually need a £1000 festool! My concern would be the stability and strength so heavy work in the vice would be very limited.

[@bigmonkey999888]

Hi Peter, brilliant thank you Steve

[@TheThriftyWoodworker]

“It’s not a piece of furniture, it’s a tool” love it

[@robertw.1499]

What a joy to see you back Peter 👍

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Robert, We have had a very busy few months and the coming year could be a challenge as we may be moving house (and workshop !!). Peter

[@robertw.1499]

@@NewBritWorkshop If I had the time and the means to do it, I'd volunteer my time just to come across and learn from you..

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Robert, I would love some help but appreciate that geography may be against it. Peter

[@mountainlightwoodcraft]

Quickly made, totally acceptable shop drawers. Nice job, Peter.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Michael. Many thanks. Peter

[@mountainlightwoodcraft]

By the way, Peter, I find your presentation thoroughly delightful and the information always helpful. I'm also a huge fan of the Parff Guide System. Just thought you should know.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Again, many thanks. Cheers. Peter

[@dermotcullen5263]

You sir, are a joy to watch. 👍

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Dermot, Thank you so much - you have made my weekend. Peter

[@nigelwarner1497]

How simple ! What a great video-many thanks peter

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Nigel, It is certainly very accurate and very easy. Peter

[@antonoat]

Superb, I feel better after watching this. It's a very effective and reliable method that absolutely brings a level of satisfaction as one folds the drawers together! lol. Cheers David.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi David, I will probably use this method for all drawers unless I am building something traditional like a desk. Peter

[@lobird23]

what a clever technique.

[@elguapo1507]

I know you put this up a long time ago but, as with your other videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@SteveZodiac777]

Nice work Peter! I've used the technique for small trinket boxes and trays but hadn't thought about using it for larger things like these drawers. As you say, lots of advantages, not least being able to build without clamps. Thanks for sharing!

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Darrel, I also used this technique when I made my keyboard cabinet (several videos about it somewhere). The mitres there were almost 1200 mm long ! Cheers. Peter

[@marcosbatistarb9811]

Very good , excelent explanation , Very Nice vídeo , thank you , Peter.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Marcos, Many thanks. Peter

[@reprosser]

I have used the tape-miter clamp method before and also had good results with good miter cuts. Also love the recycling for shop stuff.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Some of the oak originally came from a skip, was then used for my old X-Carve cabinet and now has been used for this. Cheers. Peter

[@pf5658]

Great job as always, Sir.

[@k.b.woodworker3250]

Wonderful demonstration of how to make this type of drawer or any other box. The vise stand looks very nice, not odd at all. I often use recycled wood since it can be better quality than some of the wood easily available here.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Cheers. Peter

[@markharris5771]

That’s exactly the type of build to use under my work bench to utilise space. Thank you.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Mark, Excellent idea. Peter

[@ianchappell4199]

Thanks again Peter. Great ideas, always.....

[@ollianddelphine]

Hi Peter, great video as always. This is the same technique I tried the other day on my CNC machine. Do a toolpath of rectangles or squares and perform the cuts with a 90 degree v bit cutting exactly flush with the bed. I did six sides glued it up them cut off a lid when dry.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Ollie, I might try that sometime. Cheers. Peter

[@MultiWarrior63]

Thanks Peter, love your drawers mate.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Ken, Many thanks. Peter

[@samuronkanen1307]

Very nice, thanks Peter! Ordered the Axminster BS11 thanks to your nice review. Going to watch your other videos as well. Not having all the nice tools that you have, except the Ts75 track saw, so will have to use the bandsaw for most cuts.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Samu, Rome was not built in a day. When I was your age I had none of these fine tools. Good luck and many thanks. Peter

[@gregorylondos534]

It’s been my understanding and experience, if you have flat stock, straight stock and it’s cut square it will align and frame square or box square in this example with your drawers... God work... Greg

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Greg, Yes, many thanks. Peter

[@rashidtayidi1423]

Love your genius and creativity. I want to get the Parf guide system to create benchtops and to use it with my DeWalt track saw. Unfortunately, there is no video on how to attach the Dewalt track to the your benchtop in a secure way as to preserve the great accuracy of your system. I wish you could come up with a video demonstrating such an application as I am certain that I am not the only one wishing to adapt my Dewalt track to the Parf system in an exact way. Thank you.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Rashid, For a long time we did not have the rail clip (which fit Festool track) and it was just a matter of ensuring that the guide rail was kept against the tall dogs. I will let Axminster know about your suggestion and see if they can come up with a solution. Cheers. Peter

[@rashidtayidi1423]

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you.

[@tonymaiettasr.7340]

Great video Peter

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Tony, Many thanks. Peter

[@InquisitiveSearcher]

I have seen a technique for making these type of 90 degree but joints much stronger. You would need a box cut blade for your table saw, which is a blade with squared off teeth rather than angled ones. Then you need a jig that you can slide along your fence that holds each edge of the drawer/box at 45 degrees to the table saw surface. Set the blade height equal to the width of the corner joint. Using this jig make 2 or more cuts across the corner joint. In the slots that are made, glue in strips of wood equal to the width of the blade's cut. Then trim/sand the strips flush with the box/drawer sides. This lends a strength to the joint similar to a box cut joint. They can even be a bit decorative if you use different colored woods for the strips than for the box.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Jim, You can do this easily by hand with a saw. Some people use veneers for the splines. The grain has to run through the joint at 45 degrees. Cheers. Peter

[@InquisitiveSearcher]

@@NewBritWorkshop : Yes, I agree that the cut has to be made at 45 degrees through the joint, but I disagree on using a hand saw. My experience is that the hand saw doesn't make a uniform clean cut with a square bottom. A box cut blade on the table saw is the way to go. www.forrestblades.com/saw-blades-for-finger-joints-square-cut-box-joints-rabbets-grooves-and-dovetails/

[@georgefs9341]

Thanks Peter I'm going to try this tomorrow!

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi George, Have fun. Peter

[@andrewnicholl8070]

Thanks for the info on the clamps!

[@bluekingfisher1416]

Thanks for sharing. I have similar built cabinets in my workshop. However, I would question the suitability of the drawer construction. I agree, the method is good enough for small boxes or even for the lipping to your new bench where the joints are not subjected to the huge forces present when opening and closing the drawers, particularly if the drawers contain heavy objects as used in metalworking. Adding a couple of splines across the mitres will considerably strengthen the joints and ensure a durable and longer lasting drawer.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

I will try, before the next Workshop Notes video, to take a photograph of the large drawers made by a friend of mine with 6 or 8 mm MDF. There are no nails or screws and the bottoms are planted straight on the bottom of the 4 sides with no rebate. He keeps a lot of very heavy kit inside and there are no drawer runners. Peter

[@bluekingfisher1416]

New Brit Workshop - thanks for your reply. I cannot say I have conducted any experimentation of my own, although the reliance purely of glue alone on, end plys would cause me concern. Perhaps you are more tactile and careful in your shop than I am. I tend (unintentional) to be less considerate to the construction of shop cabinet drawers, I expect them to be robust. However, for the time it takes to cut and add splines or keys externally across the mitres would certainly have a positive rather than negative connotation. In any case I enjoyed the video and your methods of work. Keep them coming, Peter. David

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi David, Many thanks for the kind words and fear not - these joints, made properly, are very strong. Peter

[@jdavis460]

Hi Peter Another great film, you make it look so easy. Can you please tell me how I can get some plans (pillar drill stand) as I cannot find any way on you tube to send you a P.M. (or am I just a bit thick)!

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Brian, In order to get the plans to you I need your email address. KZbin no longer has a private messaging service and so in order to get in touch you need to place a comment on this video with your email address. The KZbin software should identify and send it to the spam folder for The New Brit Workshop. Nobody will be able to see your email address except me. I will then send you the plans by email and delete your comment so that it does not end up in the public domain. Were we to do this the other way around then my comment, with my email address, would appear for all the world to see. Peter

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Brian, The pillar drill plans are on the way. Peter

[@markjervis8558]

Many thanks Peter.

[@normanboyes4983]

Nicely done👍

[@tympt1]

Hey Peter, I see Ron Paulk has named your Parf guide-system as his tool of the year 2018. More exposure for you on the other side of the pond! Regards Barry

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Barry, Many thanks. I wish I had Ron's email address. Peter

[@andrewbieger5004]

@@NewBritWorkshop Try [e-mail] (per his YT channel header). Loved the videos, Peter. I am saving up for the Parf guide system mark 2, as well as a few extra pairs of different sized parf dogs to do a dedicated cutting station. It will likely be a big bench hook style platform with dog holes which will clamp onto numerous work tables for both shop use and job site stuff. I am toying with the idea of a couple replaceable inserts (dovetailed in) for the cutting kerf. You have given me TONS of ideas for my wood shop and mobile kit, as well. ATB

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Andrew, Many thanks. Peter

[@nutsmcflurry3737]

It must be a Brit thing, but your voice reminds me of David Attenborough. And that's good. Whether I ever use this technique or not, I learned something today. And that's also good.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Cheers. Peter

[@drunkenmastermomo]

@New Brit Workshop Unrelated to the video. So I've just waxed a table I made from scaffold boards using briwax. Doesn't seem very hard wearing. Is there a way I can apply some osmo polyx oil to it ?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Tipsy, If it were me I would try the Osmo straight on top. Do a test area first and make sure that the Osmo is no longer sticky after 24 hours. If that fails then do a light sand and try again. Peter

[@gordonchapman222]

Peter, I love your videos on woodworking. My favourite was how to install gas struts. However in this particular episode I have to point out at 11:46 when you offer up the square it is not 'absolutely spot on' ! There is a clear gap at the bottom of the square and no gap at the top. No big deal maybe, but I've come to expect the best from you 🙂 That aside, I will always value your woodworking tips and techniques. Keep 'em coming 😊

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Gordon, I can assure you that they are square. I agree that the reflection from the square makes it difficult to judge and also the stains from wood glue on the shiny surface of the square do not help. Peter

[@gordonchapman222]

@@NewBritWorkshop 👍

[@garyhorton6652]

Hey Peter, good to see you again! Surprised you used the straight edge over some parf dogs. I use them on my bench for aligning projects and to steal one of your phrases everything comes out “Spot On”. Good luck with the move.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Gary, I do not have enough dogs - I have the ones that I use on the tracksaw cutting station, a set that are in my "reference box" that never get used and that is it. But you are right, they would be a good idea. Peter

[@garyhorton6652]

I also found that using the parf dogs make the flip over easier because you can push against them as you lift.

[@clementlambert8913]

very very nice tips !! Thank you !

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Clement, Many thanks. Peter

[@bobmartin6055]

Perfection!!

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Bob, Thank you! Cheers. Peter

[@theGermanPrintingNerd]

Well done Mate thank you for the tipp

[@susiq4671]

Hi Peter, great video thank you. Is this method just suitable for plywood and MDF?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

I have used it for solid wood but it is really impressive with veneered MDF. Peter

[@MINGLE2008]

Thank you for very useful idea. I would like to know if you have a jig to drill the drawers handles.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Christopher, Yes, I made one up for the video and it can be seen in my hand at one point. It was very simple and had a piece that exactly fitted inside the drawer, another piece that went against the drawer face and the two were joined with a strip of wood. I could then drill the 4 mm holes for the screws from the outside and the 12 mm rebate hole on the inside and get them in the perfect spot. As the handles have 96 mm screw centres I drilled 3 mm holes using a Parf Stick and then enlarged them to 4 mm. Peter

[@shootsandscoots]

I think I’ve seen Festool sandpaper used to shim the sides for the face fronts for alignment. The washers are a good idea. You could probably use some coin money if you had no washers. Not sure what English Monet looks like.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Mitchell, We used to use an old fashioned British penny for door alignment. I suppose the modern way would be to use a couple of credit cards ! Peter

[@shootsandscoots]

The credit cards are a good idea. I’ve also heard of playing cards for very fine alignment.

[@alansimpson596]

Lovely work Peter. I have the Festool Kapex 60 mitre saw and it's a joy to use. I should also disclose that I kept 240 old pence which equalled one pound sterling. They are now worth £3 so I'm a canny investor in addition to showing my age.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Alan, Excellent. The KS60 is a super machine and should be every bit as accurate as the KS120. Peter

[@kroozer5215]

very helpful video, however i was hoping to see how you fit the drawer slides too !

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Martin, I have done this recently: kzbin.info/www/bejne/enfWaKiJfbyXgdE Peter

[@tcbridges]

Nice job. Do you have a site with bed plans for purchase

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Thomas, All my plans are free of charge but I do not have any bed plans. Peter

[@proteus1]

How do you make an 8x5 table to support the holed board, because if it isn’t perfectly level and flat, the board may distort so you get inaccurate cuts…

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi David, My tracksaw cutting station is about 1600 mm x 1050 mm. I have a pair of trestles with 4 cross members to support the MDF top. The floor is flat and so it works out well. Peter

[@godfreyglyn1117]

Peter that was great, and i am a total convert to your Parfdog system and find it now essential when making anything. The one aspect of making a set of drawers using the metal draw runners that worries me is setting out the runners themselves. I saw a short clip of you fitting the runners in this video; is there a chance you could show us to do this the easy way? Many thanks.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Godfrey, I have shown them being fitted in a number of videos. Here is one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZLCYWmDndF4rdE Peter

[@risby2]

Nice, very nice indeed.

[@bobdavis4820]

Hi Peter, Nice video, I'm going to attempt to make some sliding kitchen draws could you tell me the size of material your using. cheers Bob.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Bob, My plywood was 15 mm thick. I would not used block board. I prefer MDF. Peter

[@bobdavis4820]

Hi peter, thanks, I'm thinking Medit Mdf would this be ok?Bob. @@NewBritWorkshop

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Brilliant. Peter

[@edwardlance2379]

Nice method, but I was always taught to never glue the bottom into the slots to allow for expansion and contraction.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Edward, If the material is MDF or plywood then expansion and contraction is not an issue. Peter

[@michaelflynn6178]

Have you done a video on the festool table saw ? Thanks

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Michael, Yes, in two parts. Part 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKDceXitprSbb5I and the second part can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmLLc3uHqriprsk Peter

[@markjervis8558]

Hi Peter, Love the simplicity of this draw construction. Can I ask what type of cutter you have set up in the router to make the slots to accept the drawer base. Thanks Mark.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Mark, I just used a 2 flute 6.35mm (1/4") cutter but I do have a spiral cutter of the same size that I could have used as well. Peter

[@markjervis8558]

@@NewBritWorkshop Many thanks Peter.. .

[@patmos72]

Hi Peter, as always I enjoyed Your video. What is that vice You are using to support drawer fronts while planing edges. Is it posible that You made a video about it?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Dario, Try this kzbin.info/www/bejne/opnVfIB6lJl4lZY Peter

[@patmos72]

@@NewBritWorkshop Thank You Peter, this is what I needed. Whenever You pass through Tenerife let me know I owe You a pint. Greetings from the sunny part of the world.

[@ronh9384]

Hello Peter. Excellent video as always. I always enjoy you videos and always learn a trick or two. At the 14:50 mark what was the tool you were using as a vice to hold the draw front while you were planing the edge? I have never seen that device before. I am looking forward to your next video since you have finished the shed. Cheers Ron

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Ron, That was a vice that I made from the leftovers of an old table top Stanley vice. I threw it away before moving house but you may like this one instead which is easier to make and works a little better: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGjEdmeke5mhr7c Peter

[@ArmedWithABanjo]

Hello Peter, I don’t have a Kapex or similar saw, have you found it possible to cut the mitres with the TS55?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

My TS55 can be set up with a lot of care to do accurate 45 degree cuts but it does take several test goes and slight adjustments each time. Peter

[@mhole79]

Did you make any allowance for movement in the top when applying your mahogany edging? It looks very attractive, but it seems you are seeing yourself up for problems down the line.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

I have done countless tops like this and have never had a problem. I do check the moisture content of timber if I am worried but most of my stock has been in my dry workshop for many months or even years before it gets used. You are right to highlight this as it could be an issue for people living in high humidity part of the world. Peter

[@johnbones4242]

Hi Peter, where do you source your wood, (oak etc), faced MDF or ply from? TIA

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi John, Sheet goods from Timbmet and hard wood from either a local supplier (have not found one here yet) or from Timbersource who deliver all over the country. Peter

[@ANR164]

How does the right fence backer piece stay put hence its so low? Double stick tape?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

I did use double sided tape at the start but then removed it. It works fine just being there with the stock pushed against it. Peter

[@SirBenJamin_]

What is the idea behind waiting for the blade to stop? surely it can catch when it is lowered too?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

It reduces the chances of the offcuts being caught in the blade. When this happens they can be pushed into the (good) cut face and damage it. They can also fly around and hit something else. It leaves a better cut face and is a safe technique recommended by Festool. Peter

[@29ginad]

.

[@ronh9384]

Good video Peter, very informative. How do you like your Festool tablesaw compared to a cabinet saw? If I remember correctly you used to have a larger saw? And at the 14:52 mark you had what looks like a bench clamp of some sort.... Can you do a short segment on that? Also, how did you determine your drawer size and placement and how did you mount the drawer slides? I always like to see how others do it and with as much detail as possible because I always pick up some tips to improve my current methods. Many thanks Peter. Ron

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Ron, I cut out a lot of what you have asked for in order to keep the video under 30 minutes. The table vice was first shown in this video: Try this kzbin.info/www/bejne/opnVfIB6lJl4lZY Peter

[@petedavies4796]

Good Job Peter just one thing no castors on the unit ?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Pete, It is a small unit where I will be doing my metal cutting so no need. Peter

[@Sebastian-tj8sl]

If you use the MFT as a place for glueing, why don't you use parf dogs to make a right angle?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Sebastian, I have a separate tracksaw cutting station made with the Parf Guide System which I use with Parf Dogs - it is very accurate. Peter

[@Sebastian-tj8sl]

I know and appreciate it a lot. I made a table with my version one parf guide as well and have started using the accurate holes and the 90 degree angles for drawing and routing. In the short future I am going to use them to glue my storage solution in the right 90 degree angle before installing the back wall. So I do not have to use a separate angle to control the 90 degree. I am very pleasured with my version one parfguide, only the head shape of the pins is not my favourite. The version two form looks quite better.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Sebastian, Many thanks for the info. Cheers. Peter

[@brianoneill350]

Genius

[@stevereed5776]

Nice video Peter, why do you let the mitre saw stop before removing the work piece?

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Steve, It reduces the chances of the offcuts being caught in the blade. When this happens they can be pushed into the (good) cut face and damage it. They can also fly around and hit something else. It leaves a better cut face and is a safe technique recommended by Festool. Peter

[@stevereed5776]

@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks Peter, I will ensure I do this in the future. Appreciate your advice.

[@MINGLE2008]

Thanks

[@tonysheehan7766]

Thank you Peter! Can I ask you- where did you get that large engineers square from? It's something I've coveted for a long time and always meant to ask you about.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Tony, I bought mine from The Woodworkers Workshop here in the UK. woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/collections/squares/products/fisher-precision-engineers-squares-300mm-12inboxed Peter

[@andrewnicholl8070]

hi Peter, thanks for the great video, I will use this system myself in the near future, may I ask where you purchased the clamps you used on the draw fronts? Keep up the good work!

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Andrew, They are Bessey Uniclamps. They are light and very easy to use. Peter

[@gkinlen]

Great vid as usual, lets hope the children don't come back !

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Geoff, Replacements have been found (for the headboard not the children !). Cheers. Peter

[@snowdoniahoney37]

Instead of the straight edge, wouldn't parf dogs be easier to get the alignment? Just a thought....

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Alun, You could use them if you had at least 4 - 2 for each piece being aligned and therefore the minimum length of a side being joined would be 192 mm. Cheers. Peter

[@stevescott6445]

Any straight edge would do but it does strike me assembly would be quicker if the edge was clamped to the table giving you something to firmly butt up against. MFT fence would be ideal, but a track saw rail or similar could be clamped down in no time and give you something to work up against.

[@Mrjglass213]

Why not butt your straightedge up against two parfdogs and then the drawer parts against the straightedge? That way you have something straight that would resist movement as you are performing the taping.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Good idea. Peter

[@HeARTwood-DIY]

Peter, hello! I am watching your channel with interest. I wanted to ask you one question, but I could not find your email in the "about channel" section. Kind regards.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Michael, KZbin no longer has a private messaging service and so in order to get in touch you need to place a comment on the particular video in question (or any random one will do). If you include your email address the KZbin software should identify and send it to the spam folder for The New Brit Workshop. Nobody will be able to see your email address except me.. I will respond to your comment by email and delete your comment so that it does not end up in the public domain. Peter

[@markjervis8558]

Hi Peter, Would you mind if i ask you a quick question relating to draw runners. When you size your box, you deduct the diameter of the slides, but do you allow any further dimension reduction for the box. Many thanks. Mark.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Mark, In order to calculate the width of the actual drawer box I measure the space, then take away the thickness of both runners (left and right) and then take away an additional 1 mm. Peter

[@samjacob9888]

Can you use this technique for heavy kitchen drawers? Sam Jacob, Bangalore.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Sam, As long as your mitres are accurate and you bring everything together with good quality glue it should be fine. I would not hesitate to use this method and wish that I knew about it when I built our current kitchen. Peter

[@samjacob9888]

@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks.

[@naughtyhorses]

Ahhhh rebates... rabbits make my teeth itch :-)

[@roncooper6302]

Peter, you are famous in the USA now. See Ron Paulk's latest video.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Ron, I will take look - cheers. Peter

[@chipatchison5971]

Hi Peter. How's the move going? Got any pics? I just posted my domino mortise block as instructed in your video on my instagram page at @chipper338

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Chip, Excellent. We are still getting this house ready to go on the market and will then be able to look for a new place. Cheers. Peter

[@Christopher-pf8qt]

Plywood is half endgrain, making the glue seam weak. Add to that that every time you open the drawer you are literally pulling the front away from the drawer box and the fact that you’ll be using it for heavy tools and it is 100% sure to fail over time. Without mechanical fastening this is absolutely incorrect for building drawers that will last. This is not my opinion, this is the wisdom of a million furniture makers over the years.

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Stoph, I understand what you are saying and I promise that I will report any failure of any of the drawers as soon as it happens. The unit will be seen in many videos in the future and I am happy to be questioned about it if it is absent for any length of time. Peter

[@MrPatdeeee]

As always..."Brilliant!". I learned a lot. And so simple. But that is not unusual with our "Peter Parfitt. Now isn't it? Thanks brother

[@NewBritWorkshop]

Hi Pat, Cheers. Peter