How to Make the Adjustable Waistband Skirt: Behind the Seams of Coquelicot Skirt (Wildflower Design)

Learn how I made this skirt pattern, the modifications I made, some tip and tricks on making sections easier, and answering your questions about the first video!
FIRST VIDEO: • A Skirt that ALWAYS Fi...
In the first video, I took a break from a longer project with a fun new history-bounding skirt pattern that I’m quite excited about! It’s the Coquelicot Skirt by Wildflower Designs, and there are SO MANY fun features in the skirt that get me excited!
It truly seems like the perfect skirt for those who'd like some historical fashion mixed with a healthy dose of practicality and accessibility! This skirt has a 1940s silhouette, but with giant,18th century pockets and an adjustable waistband to fit your body regardless of weight fluctuation... can it get any better than that?!
In addition to sewing the skirt, in that first video I also reached out to the pattern creator, Melanie, to see if she’d chat a bit with me about the pattern, the inspiration behind it, and her creative process.
It was a super interesting conversation, but unfortunately that didn't leave much time for discussing the construction, or narrating what I was doing at every step of the way. So that's what this videos for!! #coquelicotskirt #historybounding #skirttutorial
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🪡Sewing Techniques Used:
- Stay stitching (on the pocket slit and the waistline of skirt panels
- French Seams (to attach all the skirt panels together)
- Arrowhead Tack (to strengthen the bottom of the pocket opening)
- Grading Seam Allowances (on many different portions)

[@pmclaughlin4111]

My grandmother would have loved your wonderful, even, hand stitches. All the "problem solving" is what elevates your skirt, from the use of different width ribbons to the uneven ties, a true work of art. I use those arrow heads for the top of the hem slits on tunic shirts. I also use self fabric a lot as "interfacing". I actually keep a stash of plain cotton and poly cotton to use as interfacings.

[@liav4102]

Switching back and forth from modern to historical clothing construction definitely made me question the need for separate interfacing especially since that seems to get weird

[@ShannonMakes]

I think that the classic, super cheap, almost paper-like interfacing that's most readily available, (and also that many people don't apply it with enough heat/for long enough for it to properly adhere) gives a bad name to interfacing as a whole, which is a shame, cuz interfacing is great when used properly!

[@ShannonMakes]

Aww thank you, glad to be making your grandmother proud! I think that's a great idea of keeping a stash of fabric purely for interfacing... love it!

[@susanrussell8195]

My college sewing professor taught us just to use the same fabric. Its always the right color unless it’s something that would show through. I must admit though that I like the convenience of iron on interfacing. Using the arrowhead stitches is a brilliant idea for hem slits.

[@SnappyDragon]

latest sewing brain fart . . . panicked briefly about not having left enough extra fabric at the center back of a corset to fold over and do the boning channels. Then realized I was looking at the center front, not center back. And of course, this was my project to work on during lighting tests, so half of this got caught on camera 😵

[@ShannonMakes]

omg, that's fantastic... I do dearly hope that this little hiccup ends up on-screen one day, especially since there's clearly footage of it!

[@stevezytveld6585]

_Interfacing alternative_ - According to the copy of the 1935 Simplicity Sewing Book, they used to use mock-up weight muslin/cotton for their interfacing layer. People used to do the exact same steps back before we had to pay for polyester interfacing and gravity fed steam irons. Bonus points for how the first part of the century got things done - they're pretty thrifty. They used a sponge to dampen the pressing cloth to steam the pressing into the fabric seams. You could alternatively use a spray bottle. I've learned the hard way. Don't skip the interfacing. It is so worth the time. Otherwise you're herringbone stitching the facings down... If the final mock-up works well enough then take it apart and use it on the parts that need the reinforcement. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Hiya Cathy!! Hope the tomatoes are doing well! I've been known to use Ikea cotton twill curtain fabric as interfacing on heavier garments like coats and a thick wool skirt, I acquired rather a lot of the stuff and it's useful when I don't want to add anything polyester to my garment... though the shirt I'm wearing now has a facing without interfacing and I have to iron the thing after every wash so the facing doesn't stick out the neck hole, oh well. In future renditions of the same garment, I've just done a very tiny backstitch near the edge of the facing to hold them down, on this particular one I didn't go out far enough out. I could just do another round of prick stitching it down, but meh, my iron needs exercise anyways.

[@stevezytveld6585]

@@bunhelsingslegacy3549 Nice. There always seems to be a small list of 'different next time' when a project is done. The tomatoes have settled in quite well, thank you again. no sign of flowering yet, but they're in containers so they take a little longer. The potato experiment should be good until the fall. How goes your corner of the universe?

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@stevezytveld6585 Yep, always hte "next time" list. I usually write those right on my patterns. Colorado potato beetles, cucumber beetles, squash bugs and two kinds of asparagus bugs...despite them, my garden grows! Just waiting for the Japanese Beetles to show up. Many of my tomatoes are starting to flower, and my potatoes are already flowering.

[@pennydreadfull]

Can you use an alternative to lacing? Snaps, hook n eyes etc..?

[@ColorJoyLynnH]

I am old school… learned to sew from my mom who sewed on a treadle during childhood during WWII. She & her sibs won awards at the country fair. Mom hangs the garment after it’s constructed. Then she puts on the garment and marks the hem, measuring from the floor up. It makes sense. If one has a booty, the hem will pull up in back, and if a belly, it will pull up in front.

[@ShannonMakes]

Yea that totally makes sense about marking it on your body - everyone has different body shapes, and that's a method that might be a bit more finicky BUT guaranteed to get a level hem on every body!

[@asyoz]

I absolutely agree. My Mum was a wedding dress and formal-wear designer, but she also sewed clothes (mainly dresses) beautifully. She taught me to sew and make patterns, but I'm nowhere near as good as she was (well, IS, but she's 83 now, so not so much sewing anymore). Whenever she finished a dress/skirt, she'd hang it for at least a week. She'd say "I'm letting it drop". She explained that the fibres aren't 'used to' hanging, they're used to lying down (or being on the roll, which isn't hanging independently). After they'd hung for at least a week she'd put it onto whoever she was making it for and do the hem. Measuring from the floor up (I've seen people on YT measuring down from the waist. Doesn't work, but I've seen it). All her creations hung perfectly.

[@jenniferb9017]

I think this might be just the pattern I need for a practical concert skirt - pockets for tuner, lip balm, spare pegs (to hold sheet music on the stand at outdoor venues) would be so handy. We have uniform jackets with pockets, but it's often too warm to wear them. I'd not have come across this pattern without your videos, so thank you!

[@ShannonMakes]

You're very welcome, I hope this skirt will solve all of your problems!! Thanks for watching

[@CaptainStitchyPants]

That was really useful, thank you! It's such an unusual construction that it's helpful to see it all broken down like this, and it's always great to see how and why someone deviates from the pattern instructions. I learn so much from seeing how other people deal with errors and challenges, whether it's fabric shortage (planned or surprise!) or messing up a step in the instructions. You have a clear talent for creative problem solving and a pragmatic attitude towards compromises, which results in very relatable videos and projects that make me feel way more normal when I screw things up 😂

[@ShannonMakes]

Awww, thank you!! Honestly, EVERYONE screws up! Maybe not everyone shows it on the internet, but I guarantee everyone who sews, makes mistakes!! But you know what they say in my line of work: the show must go on!! 🎪 Gotta figure out a way around the mistake, and maybe even make them features!

[@SoupCanGirl]

Okay, wait, you don’t have to piece the whole print-at-home sheet together? I’ve always done that (for garments at least) then traced onto pattern paper and stored both… Just putting the pieces together seems so much easier and faster, and with less chance of the warping I usually get! Thanks for reducing my sewing related back and neck pain!

[@Hrafnasil]

Despite measuring 3 times still got the length and curve wrong on the crotch seam of my pants. Setting sleeves and pants, my greatest sewing hurdles.

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh nooooo 😭😭 at least I think you're in good company there!

[@Hrafnasil]

@@ShannonMakes Yeah, a very nice striped cotton satin too, fortunately a second-hand shop find and I have more of it but still... It's in my UFO pile for now until I have stopped being mad about it :D

[@karengerber8390]

So relatable!!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Love this! I don’t wear skirts much but find myself wanting the pattern!!! Most of my sewing mistakes are usually caused by late night sewing. I get in the grove loss track of time and do something backwards or upside down! Sometimes I just lose my mind for no reason and doing something really wonky!

[@ShannonMakes]

I am the literal worst at staying up late at night, I'm much more of a morning bird 🦜 but whenever I find myself making those silly mistakes, I often I ask myself the same questions: when was the last time I ate? Do I need to stand up and go for a walk? Is this garment sitting in the corner overnight to think about what it's done?!

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

@@ShannonMakes lol yes we all seem to have a corner where things sit! Sometimes much longer than overnight lol

[@Musicwarmsmysoul]

I hear this!

[@dee4174]

I know what you mean. It had same effect on me!😂

[@acebaker3623]

With regards interfacing. Iron on interfacing is a relatively new invention. I'm talking recent decades. I just made a shirt that required interfacing, and in the mockup I tried sewing an extra layer of fabric on one side of the collar and modern interfacing on the other. I actually liked the results of the fabric interfaced collar better, so when I made the final shirt I went with fabric interfacing.

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh definitely!! While the presence of interfacing in itself is relatively important, whether it’s sew-in fabric or iron-on modern is a personal preference, determined by so many factors!!

[@tf7602]

I have so many unfinished projects and sewing supplies still in moving boxes, so I don't think I'll make this skirt. But your two videos on the skirt really reinvigorated my motivation for sewing. Well, at least I feel really really motivated to get my sewing and crafting supplies out of the moving boxes (finally).

[@ShannonMakes]

Nice! You've got your sewjo back! Best of luck unpacking!!

[@FrancesSmeby]

I used to make wedding dresses and bridesmaids dresses for a career. Your thought process are spot on and it looks very nice and comfortable and professional. Good job....

[@armedvsokord]

I have a full circle skirt with 3 panels that I put pockets into the seams where the front panel meets the two other panels. They are just located where front pockets are on pants and I personally like them. They are super easy to reach. So if anyone needs to do something like this and doesn't want to cut into the panel that might be an option as well. Edit: fixed a word.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Agreed, I like my pockets a little forward of the sides myself.

[@ShannonMakes]

Yup, agreed that I also generally set my pockets a bit forward of the true side seam, although if you use this pattern, and cut out the required 4 or 8 panels, there isn't a seam to set the pockets into that isn't at the side. If designing one's own skirt, a larger CF panel and two smaller (less voluminous) back panels is a great design regarding ability to place pockets!!

[@subparastrologer]

It is a gift that you’d share the inside of your awesome projects! Thanks for another great video!

[@ShannonMakes]

My pleasure! You're very welcome, thanks for watching!!

[@alixagermana5827]

Thanks for your tip regarding the pockets! I had a lot of trouble today, and I’ll try your modified, tear shaped opening tomorrow 😊

[@aquaaurora2747]

Most recent sewing mistake was 2 days ago: about to start my first stays pattern, cut out pattern, read instructions.. notice there is no grain line on the front piece.. but it has a cut on fold symbol... my brain forgets the logic that cut on fold=on grain line. I waisted the seller's time contacting to ask then feeling like an idiot when they responded (they weren't rude, I just realized how dumb I was). I didn't touch the project for the rest of that day as clearly my brain wasn't cooperating.

[@ShannonMakes]

Ahh yes, the "where is the grainline indicator" question... I had a similar brain fart when pattern testing a few years ago, so can 100% relate!

[@liav4102]

I gotta say every version of this that has a coordinated but not matching pocket has been so good

[@ShannonMakes]

Nice!!! It's slowly becoming a trend 😍

[@leesbees9412]

Hi Shannon. This really helped me understand what was what when U made the skirt. Thanks . CIAO AMORE.

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful

[@TheFeralFarmgirl]

Now I don't feel so bad about hand sewing. I hand sew EVERYTHING. I have a sewing machine, but I always seem to have an excuse to hand sew all my projects instead of machine sew them... 🙈🙈🙈🙈

[@ShannonMakes]

I don't think you should ever feel bad about your preferred method of sewing... hands-down the BEST sewing technique is the one that will allow you to get the job done, if you ask me!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I used to think I hated sewing and wasproduct-oriented rather than process oriented, only in it to make something I wanted, till I started hand sewing. Then I realized I don't hate sewing, I hate my Singer machine. I got a 1914 antique hand crank machine and until last week, was the only machine sewing I'd done for three years. I like hand sewing, felling seams is just so zen, and I'm kind of sad when a project is finished because I'm done hand sewing for a while till I get my next project aligned...

[@lizhumble9953]

One day my sewing brain was just not working. I was making shorts, and twice, not once, but twice, I sewed the legs together with one inside out and one right side out. I put one leg inside the other to do the crotch seam and did it wrong, picked out the stitches and then did it wrong again in the total opposite way. I just put it down for a day.

[@ShannonMakes]

Yup, I totally know that feeling. That's when I ask myself, "when was the last time I ate? Do I need to go for a walk? Is this garment sitting in the corner overnight to think about what it's done?!"

[@tunamayocrepe]

I just recently sewed my first dress and OH BOY I had lots of brain farts. First of all, I cut my pocket wrong, like I didn't flip the pattern so it's two correct cuts and two wrong ones. I didn't have leftover so I thought "oh well, let's just go with this" the next brainfart is that I underestimated the amount of fabric that goes into making just one dress. I was supposed to make circle skirt for the dress but didn't have enough so I just make normal gathered square skirt. third is that I accidentally caught the skirt in the sewing machine A LOT OF TIMES. I redid my ruffles like many times before I actually did it right :") And since it's my first time actually using the sewing machine, let's say that the sewing work is about as straight as pride month 😅

[@ShannonMakes]

LOL... HEY! Congratulations on sewing your first dress AND on using a sewing machine for the first time. That is a TON of wins right there!! Do you know how many people would have given up at several steps along the process that you just described right there?!?! But you didn't, and now you have a fancy, custom-made dress that you can be proud of, and a bunch of lessons that you learned if you want to tackle another garment (maybe this skirt...?!) Sounds like a win to me!!!

[@katebruner5407]

May or may not have lost my mind when you showed the SR Harris labels! It's 10 mins from my house and I've been going there for my entire 35 year life!

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh, that’s so funny! I actually have an entire video on it that you might find entertaining if you know the place that well! (youtu.be/npIJ_D6GL)

[@insidiouschaos812]

biggest sewing mistake i have made recently is following instructions for a dress pattern instead of putting the zipper in first - it got to the point where the only way to put in the zipper was to hand-pick it, and now that that’s done i hate the whole dress so it’s eventually going to come apart again and be turned just into a skirt with a wide, well-interfaced waistband.

[@ShannonMakes]

oh nooooo 😩😩 At least you have plans for how to make it into something you'll actually like to wear!!

[@molnotmole3428]

The amount of times I’ve accidentally subtract or add middle seams is rather embarrassing, which is why I write in big letters by the seam “add seam allowance” or draw the seam allowance & write “here on fold”.

[@ShannonMakes]

YUPPPPP… I absolutely write such things on my patterns too, in an attempt to prevent Future Shannon from sabotaging herself 😂😂

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

Heh, I make all my patterns without seam allowance (I'm a doofus and need stitch lines) and mark fold lines on my patterns in neon sharpie in the hopes that future me doesn't screw it up AGAIN. I also label each piece with chalk, often with an arrow pointing to the back or front so I know where it goes, especially when pieces look the same (when you're shaped like a brick, a lot of corset panels can't be told from each other once you unpin the pattern piece to cut the lining!!)

[@lilolmecj]

What I like about pressing the fabric before cutting is you will find any fabric flaws, and can mark them with a safety pin and avoid putting a slub or whatever on the center front of your garment.

[@ShannonMakes]

Yuppp, totally!

[@stevezytveld6585]

Great video. Thank you for taking us all through your various steps. And I absolutely love it that she has the seam allowances marked on the pattern. I love saving the step of marking it out. I do so many adjustments to my bodice that I just use the pattern as net. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@ShannonMakes]

Yea, I also love it when the SA is marked!

[@dankthompson]

I'm constantly sewing my seams the wrong way., you know what I mean... AARRGG!!! I've finally noticed when I take my time and just double check where I'm at and whats I'm supposed to do next... I avoid the big mistakes, and the swearing at my seam ripper as I use it oh so carefully. LOL. Thank you so much for your post. Love your content. Big fan from Hawaii!!!

[@naolucillerandom5280]

Is emptying your wallet by buying fabric to attempt to sew an intermediate level skirt without the pattern while being a "literally has only sewn ONE skirt in her lifetime" beginner, risky? Yep. Well, it's awesome and pretty so I'm doing it anyway.

[@ShannonMakes]

I mean, it's not a move I would have made, but I hope it works out well for you in the end!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

My usual brainfart is forgetting about ease/forgetting how my measurements lie. I need positive ease in the bust for a loose shirt, negative ease for a loadbearing waistband, and my measurements totally lie for anything fitted, my last stupidity was with a skirt, first time making a placket and everything, made a wide curved waistband and it was too tight, narrowed the waistband so I was using the bottom circumference instead, and it's two inches too big and slides off my nonexistent hips. Current solution is I just overlap the dang thing and safety pin it... I'll get fasteners on it someday.

[@curlysammm6387]

I love the look of that ribbon edge finishing-- and the snap on the modesty panel. I was already debating adding a button but the snap is probably better since then you won't have to deal with adding a button hole. The biggest alteration I made to the pattern is that I pieces I had cut out for the longest circle skirt I could manage with my yardage instead of the skirt pieces from the pattern- and it worked just fine. Just had to ease/gather the top of the skirt into the waistband and it was done. I really appreciate the detail of your videos!

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it (and the detail I went into, even though it ended up being a rather long video 😳)! Someone else said they were thinking of using a hook and multiple eyes, as their skirt was in silk, and kept slowly sliding down over the course of the day.

[@lizzaturnbull]

Sewing Brain Fart this week - cutting 2 right sides of a corset top instead of mirroring 🤦🏼‍♀️

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh noooooo, that's the worst. Like really, the worst. I hope you had enough fabric for a second... third??... side!

[@arvettadelashmit9337]

In the late 1950's and early 1960's there was the full back wrap "A' line skirt (Golf skirt). The originals had two back panels that overlapped each other and tied in front. All that I ever saw had big, pork chop shaped, patch pockets in front. The tie strings allowed for weight gain or loss. Some of those skirts were reversible; and, some of the skirts had buttons on both sides. I would love to see copies of the original skirts made again (not those badly made copies that came out in the 1980's).

[@ShannonMakes]

Nice! Sounds like a fun design!

[@haveaballcrafting8686]

Like mccall’s 6665? My mum used to wear a lot of wrap skirts, hers were lovely, roughly 3/4 of a circle. Modern ones i’ve bought were cut from rectangles, on the straight! I had to add darts to make up for the total lack of waist shaping. :-/

[@laniinla2354]

OMG thank you for answering my question! I love the idea of using a lighter cotton on the inside portions so i can use my wool on the outside! *skips off to buy pattern*

[@ShannonMakes]

You are so welcome! I will do almost definitely do the same with my own wool version!

[@katwitanruna]

I love hand sewing!

[@NatalieCrafts]

Thank you so much, this made everything make much more sense!

[@ShannonMakes]

You're very welcome, glad you found it helpful!

[@TenaciousWorkshop]

Latest crafting brain fart was drilling unnecessary holes in metal, AND filing them to fit a carriage bolt…. Ugh… So much wasted effort… Latest sewing brain fart? Trying to make a corset hoodie! LOL! Seriously, I finally finished the mock-up yesterday, and was going to try to upcycle a large hoodie that no longer fits me - BUT, I may not have enough fabric anyway…. *sigh* But, I’ve been pondering how to make it work, and I’ve got a couple of ideas! Gonna try it out this weekend. 😊 Great tips in this Behind the Seams, as always! I never thought about interfacing *just* to the seam allowance to save on bulk! And I’m going to have to look into this LITERAL corner-cutting pattern assembly method! 😂 Have a great weekend!

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh noooo... I hope the corset hoodie is going well at least. A few ppl asked me about upcycling options, and while I think it's possible, I do think it will (in most cases) require the addition of a second fabric. Although I think there's also a way to do it where the additional fabric needn't match the original!

[@XgalEvey]

My most infamous brain fart is why I'm not allowed to cut out fabric after 10pm haha I cut out a piece of fabric the wrong way...twice...back to back. And then sewed the correct piece on backwards...three times. Thankfully I had way more fabric than I needed and used the scraps for something else!

[@ShannonMakes]

oof, yea I definitely also give myself a curfew. Nothing late at night beyond hemming or sewing buttons!! Glad you had extra fabric

[@JenInOz]

A couple of thoughts on this pattern (which I have bought but not yet decided which stash fabric I'll use for it)... 1) the slit in the pockets looks very similar to the slash in the cuffs of a standard long sleeve shirt so I wonder whether I could either treat the slit the same way with a narrow bias strip placket or with a shaped placket that couture shirts have? And 2) I wonder if you made the inner waistband and/or modesty panel using power mesh, would that make the skirt hold in your tummy like shapeware?

[@ShannonMakes]

You could do the slit with a placket as you would for a cuff, yes for sure! Also, I know other people just line the entire front of the pocket, so there are no raw edges to deal with, but I wouldn't want to do that unless I. had a very thin lining fabric, to avoid bulk. I'm not sure if the power mesh would act like shapeware, mainly because I don't have much experience with shapeware. I suspect that it might be too narrow of a waistband, and might cause a bit of the "muffin top" phenomenon, because aren't most shapewares quite long and cover a LOT of area? This is not to discourage you from trying it, if you want to experiment, I think that's fantastic!! This is just my musings and first thoughts based on your question!

[@damogranheart5521]

@@ShannonMakes Musing and pondering are good and to be recom.ended!🤔

[@HaapainenRouske]

This is the first pattern I've ever purchased and I must say that it was totally worth it! I don't really sew my own clothes, I mostly just adjust and fix what I have, but this pattern was really easy to use and follow and now I have my new favourite skirt! It's so comfortable, cute and having pockets is just really convenient :) Great work! ❤

[@ShannonMakes]

Wonderful!

[@TheSilverlady1980]

Project onto old wallpaper roll we did that years ago.

[@fawntheresa5338]

Wonderfully explained, while I enjoyed watching the original video I did watch a lot of it without the audio on, as an ADHD person it was difficult for me to focus on what I was watching while trying to also listen. Side note, that purple accent wall is sooooo beautiful and your tiny surgical stitches are so beautiful, please give us a hand sewing ASMR.

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you! 🥰🥰 It might be worth going back to listen to the video (especially now that you've taken in the visuals a couple times) just for the interview with Melanie, as it was a super interesting convo with her, and fun to hear about her process! Also, yes, I do LOVE my purple wall in combo with that fun photo... plus it gives me the best excuse to wear all my light blue tops, which work really well in contrast with it!! 💙

[@haydeenunn4372]

I love the historical accuracy of the coat and the time-travelling weather -adjusting features. I especially love the zipper and magnet. I probably would use another to close the belt so it stays invisible. I started loving historical fashion with Outlander the series. Unfortunately the garments don't look the same on my body. I have a wool fabric that I thrifted and I'm waiting to use. This is a great idea. I just saw a real fur remnant at the thrift shop last week. I think I'll go back and rescue it.

[@ShannonMakes]

I have absolutely NO idea how your comment ended up under the skirt video, when it's clearly in reference to the Outlander Coat that just came out... could be that YT is having a brain fart 🤣 Also, part of your sentence is missing, I can't tell what you said you would have used to close the belt... I'm guessing magnet? Unfortunately I don't think they're *that* strong... I do want the belt to be very firmly held in place, and I don't think the magnets have that much strength (there's not much force or pressure trying to rip the coat open at knee height)... good idea though!!

[@deboraheriksen881]

For a turning string, crochet cotten. Tie a sturdy knot that is sewn outside your seam line, big enough it won't pull through the seam. Crochet cotton is strong enough not to break

[@ShannonMakes]

I’ll have to try that next time!

[@FantasticalFolliesCostuming]

Skirt finishing hack of the year! Wow, never occurred to me to serge & sew...implementing immediately! Also, glad for this series, because it's inadvertently solved a problem I've been having with my next project and given me a BRILLIANT idea...🤯

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh, fantastic!! I'm thrilled to have inadvertently solved a problem AND given a new hem finishing technique (honestly, I love it.... SO fast and practical, and gives a nice light, unbulky hem)

[@NatalieCrafts]

Same. I hate hemming circle skirts because it's a pain in the tuckus. But this will be a game changer! (I don't have a serger, but my machine has an overlock stitch.)

[@fashionmakiroll]

Thank you for making this video! Your pocket explanation really made sense to me and I think I'll try the teardrop shape cutout when I make my next version of this skirt! And I know I'll be coming back to this video when I remake this skirt!

[@ShannonMakes]

You’re very welcome, I’m glad you found it useful 💙💜♥️

[@tiffanytomasino335]

The fabric I bought for my current project will not suit (it said moisture wicking and breathable which I assumed meant comfy but feels like plastic and isn’t as stretchy as I need), so that is now on hold til I find something else. My next project is a petticoat, of which I have plenty of sheets to sacrifice. But it’s the small sized patterns… 😅 so now I have to figure out the process of sizing up, which several of your videos give me a good general idea of how to go about doing. Huzzah. I really enjoy your videos explains your choices. It’s one thing to see a fix and another to understand the why behind it. I really like the ribbons too, I think it was an aesthetic touch in the end. Thank you for sharing!

[@ShannonMakes]

Best of luck on the sizing up, grading patterns is always a mild pain in the ass... fortunately petticoat should be fairly straight-forward!!

[@jeffjennsmith]

Would I be possible to do the lace up closure in the less full skirt? I’m loving this so much!!

[@ShannonMakes]

I would recommend contacting Melanie on Instagram and asking her, she'd probably be able to answer it better than I - she's @wildflower__design

[@FlyingBunnycorn]

I tried to convert a men's flannel shirt into a more feminine fit, with puffed shoulders and sleeves, taking in the shoulders so it'd fit, etc. I finished the cuffs first, got the shoulders pleated down, and sewed them in--inside out. I didn't realize until AFTER I'd finished the shoulder seams with bias tape. However, it's virtually impossible to tell; it's really only the placket buttons being on the inside that gives it away, and who's gonna notice? So I left it. It's still super cute, and nice and warm!

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh, I love both the project in general, and the solution - "it looks great, noone's gonna notice, so I'm gonna leave it!" And you know what I always say? If they're close enough to pick apart your seams and comment on your sleeve... they're close enough for you to slug 'em!

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh, I love both the project in general, and the solution - "it looks great, noone's gonna notice, so I'm gonna leave it!" And you know what I always say? If they're close enough to pick apart your seams and comment on your sleeve... they're close enough for you to slug 'em!

[@DenimBlueRue]

Grew up in a sewing family, in the country. If the need arose, we just reminded each other "No one will notice on a galloping horse!"

[@TahmNong]

Can anyone tell me about how much fabric would be needed for the smallest size? I have some nice fabric I'm looking for a project for, but I don't know if it's enough

[@TomoyoTatar]

Oh god this will help me!! I have really really bad endometriosis belly, I bloat some days like a good 20-30 pounds with inflammation. All my skirts will be like this now. 🙂❤

[@ShannonMakes]

Yesss, fantastic!! Such a great pattern, and really makes clothing more accessible for exactly this ⬆️ reason!

[@helenakhudyna2360]

I still cannot figure out, the front panel is separate, right? How can it not flap over all the time to reveal that it's not attached?

[@ShannonMakes]

There is a full-body shot of me putting the skirt on somewhere towards the end of the video, and you can see the entire skirt and how it works

[@dianagreene4257]

Brain fart: using bias tape to bind the bottom of my corset hoodie. Did a nice finished corner on the top of the corset and then cut the bottom binding of right at the end of the bottom edge. Guess who decided they don't want to bind the vertical edges and now I have to figure out how to cover fraying bottom corners.

[@ShannonMakes]

Ohhh nooooooo 😭😭

[@CatyBee]

I've been doing home improvements over the past few months and have been wanting to see a channel where they show all of the screw-ups. Because I learned so much from fixing the things that I mess up. And then I saw your channel and I love it so much I cannot tell you how great it is to see somebody telling us what's really going on and how to fix those mistakes.

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you! 💚💜💙 Glad you're enjoying the videos!!

[@CatyBee]

@@ShannonMakes I was making every mistake imaginable the other day and was thinking, "they don't show THIS in KZbin." And found your channel that same night. 😊

[@annamaxflair]

seam rippers are our friends, even if they laugh at us as we haul them out to use lol, the skirt turned out lovely.

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you, it's so true! 🤣🤣

[@StrawberryMad6]

I'm just curious if this split side design can be done with a gathered rectangle skirt or even tiered skirt?

[@carolinegray7510]

On hand sewing: the difference in fit is amazing. Movement of the fabric is far more subtle. Shoulder, armhole and neck seams more malleable and lay softly. A hand-sewn zipper is stronger due to its softness adjoined to the garments' material . Less expensive materials aren't stressed at the seams extending the life of the garment....in my experience. 😊

[@ShannonMakes]

In the interest of encouraging everybody to sew in the method they enjoy/are capable of/have available to them: I hand sew because I enjoy it, but I will say that 99% of the time you can absolutely achieve the same results with a machine - it might take longer, and you might have to be more fussy if you want the same results, but there's absolutely no reason that sewing by hand vs. by machine will change the movement of the fabric or make seams more malleable. You might feel you have more control over how the fabric sits when you sew by hand, but if you're willing to put in the time, you can absolutely achieve the same results by machine in virtually every scenario. Not entirely sure what you're saying in the last comment - that cheap fabrics aren't stressed at the seams? Implying that expensive ones are? I'm a bit confused, but regardless of the cost, more durable fabrics (both synthetic and natural fiber) will be better withstand the stress that garments are naturally subjected to, but there are many ways to mitigate that stress, including, as you saw, some strategic bar tacks. It's a common technique employed in higher quality clothing manufacture, and it works very well.

[@carolinegray7510]

​@@ShannonMakesthank you so much for taking the time....and to clarify cheap vs quality.....definitely quality is preferred. Long life etc. Your encouragement to both choices of sewing is very kind. I see that and fully agree. To me, just me, hand sewing is a time enjoying the feel of the fabric; of not 'speeding' thru the process. However, I do stand by my opinion that hand vs machine is better in ways mentioned. Your vids are a delight to me. Your energy seems boundless! And you are sharing knowledge which is most important. Thanks again 😊

[@ShannonMakes]

You're very welcome, and I love that you enjoy the hand-sewing! I also find it a perfect moment to relax and really enjoy the process of creating something of quality! 🧵🪡 But also, I do sometimes love my machine, and I'm all about encouraging people to sew in whatever way they can (as many people are limited by time, budget, physical restrictions/disabilities, etc), so I did feel like I needed to stick up for machine sewing too 🤣🤣

[@StrongImaginationA]

Oooh so cool! I bought a winter/christmas fabric (holly leaves and berries but in gold and black) early 2022 in a sale and I've been wanting to make an adjustable skirt with it. I thought I'd just go for the 18th century style of basically making two aprons with ties and sewing them halfway together, but this might make me prouder to finish, lol. I have some other projects to finish first but I've saved this video to come back to it.

[@ShannonMakes]

Love love love it!! Hope you adore the skirt (when you get around to it) as much as I love mine!

[@eileenfb1948]

Putting binding around the pocket slit. Don't round off the bottom of the slit. That causes more crinkles at the bottom. Line up the binding with the left side of the slit (left as we are looking at it) and sew the two together until you get level with the bottom of the slit. Leaving the needle in the down position and foot up - move the fabric on the right side of the slit around clockwise to become in line with the left side - so they make a straight line. Carefully continue sewing. This technique doesn't work well with stiff or bulky fabric. You should end up with a small pucker which sometimes will press out.

[@susanrussell8195]

I just finished two circle skirts, and I hemmed them exactly the same way. My question is why you didn’t just split the side panels all the way down. If you finished them with your serger, you would have had a very small seam allowance.

[@ShannonMakes]

I didn’t want yet another seam 🤷‍♀️

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@ShannonMakes I had that same pucker issue once with something, maybe a zipper? and I just made a very narrow dart out of it to hide the evidence...

[@wendyreynolds2261]

Thanks for posting this. I bought the pattern immediately after watching the first video. Funny enough I made my first attempt at French seams on pockets for pajama pants bc I don'thave a serger...not really pretty, but they work!

[@ShannonMakes]

Wonderful, I hope you enjoy sewing it up! And hey, now you have some awesome fancy seams on your PJs, that's fantastic!

[@spikedcolor]

Thank you for sharing your process, I can't wait to give this pattern a go! Planning to use the fuller pattern for the back panels with the less-full for front panels along with the laced waistband

[@ShannonMakes]

Nice!! Best of luck on your project!! I think your plan should work swimmingly!

[@suegardner1417]

Hi Shannon, you must live in/near MN because I used to live in St. Paul and discovered S. R. Harris warehouse about 30 years ago. I now live in northern MN so don’t get to the cities very often but I LOVE S. R. Harris!!

[@ShannonMakes]

I live in Montreal, actually, but I visit MN a couple times a year, and often pass by when I'm there, because it's just such a treat!!

[@suegardner1417]

@@ShannonMakes It surely is! You never know what you’ll find.

[@suegardner1417]

Wow you’re a L O N G way from Mpls way over der in Quebec!! Of course if you fly into MSP airport you’re not far from the “fabric Mecca”🤩!

[@jolyanelavoie1023]

Would you say that this pattern is to advanced ?

[@dee4174]

This skirt is genius! Thank you for the video. I haven't sewn clothes for 30 years but I really woukd like to do this one. Saving the video's. Thanks to you and the designer too.

[@ShannonMakes]

You're very welcome, I'm glad to have perhaps inspired you to get out the sewing tools again!! Thanks for watching, and feel free to check out some of the other fun sewing videos on the channel if you're needing more motivation and sew-jo!!

[@sewitfits7393]

There is no such thing as a sewing mistake only extra "FASHION DETAILING".

[@ShannonMakes]

LOL so true!

[@pavlal.4552]

Love the skirt and also your personality 👍☺️

[@ShannonMakes]

Oh thank you!! I hope you'll hang out and check out some other videos on the channel, I've got lots of fun projects!

[@astridafklinteberg298]

Sewing=Life=dealing gracefully with mistakes.

[@ShannonMakes]

so true!

[@faerdineth4239]

❤️

[@katerinalipova4857]

Hi, I found in pattern step 9: finish front skirt and ties part when I have to fold the ties and sew them 1cm. But the seam allowance of the ties and waistband is 1,5. Do you know if this step is correct? I wrote to design creator and 4 more people, but nobody answered. Thank you!

[@ShannonMakes]

I did this pattern over a year ago, but I would assume it's correct.

[@marthabenner6528]

Guess who just bought a sewing table🎶. This girl. It's a sturdy old 1930's maple wood table with fold down wings, and in remarkable shape. I'll put some work into it in a week or two, wheels, replace the missing leaf, and a pinnable top mat, maybe some shelving, you know the normal stuff from your dreams.

[@ShannonMakes]

does indeed sounds like the stuff of my dreams (especially since it sounds very much like my own sewing table that I made last year, and that's very dreamy indeed)!!!

[@Catch-The-Ghost]

In the middle of con crunch last night I spent over an hour drawing my seam lines and pinning miles of fabric… only to realize twill does in fact have different right and wrong sides… and I had drawn my seams on the incorrect side on more than half my pieces. 😱😱😱 Luckily apron pieces are all squares and rectangles so I could just flip them over, but I did have to re-draw all those seams. (つД`)ノ

[@ShannonMakes]

oh noooooo.... yes, we've all been there. I have definitely put lines on teh wrong side of the fabric MANY a time! Sounds like you got it done in time for the con, at least!!

[@EAhighlander-vf7rr]

Wish that I had watched this before making mine….I made mine from a Halloween pumpkins fabric with a busy print but if you looked carefully the print is one way and I could have sooo done with making it in 6 panels (no centre front seam) . Arrrghhh! And, I found the instructions for putting the tie loops onto the waistband piece (view B) a bit muddling. Had to unpick so many times. So thinking I might be heading down the pre-senile dementia road….. 😢

[@ShannonMakes]

Congratulations on muddling through, though! Thats what the sewing process is all about - meeting obstacles head on and pushing through!

[@katewill7302]

I’m using this pattern to “MacGuyver” a linen petticoat I made from a B&T video. I found the weight on the waist of the skirt was uncomfortable for me. I am hoping that resewing the waist with this modesty panel and the awesome pockets will be more comfortable for me in my daily life. 🧵🪡

[@ShannonMakes]

Nice, what a creative use for the pattern!! I definitely think using this waistband might help solve some of the problems you encountered with the petticoat!

[@HH-cr4gl]

Hello Shannon, I'm trying to figure out how your pocket hack makes sense with the 8 panels shown in the pattern. Did you only do 6 skirt panels due to your fabric shortage? Your illustration explanation makes it sound like you only used 6 panels. Two front, two back, and one side each.

[@ShannonMakes]

I honestly don't remember what the situation was at this point, I just remember misreading yardage and being short on fabric. I know I went over it quite extensively between my two videos for this skirt, so all I can suggest is to watch both of them all the way through, the answer will be in there somewhere.

[@nguyenhakieunhung3242]

Thanks for showing me how you tackled the pockets! I can't seem to get it correctly, my binding was not laying flat-ish and it just looked sad. However, just like you did, I narrowed down the width of the binding because it was giving me a hard time,. My second pocket ended up looking a bit better and i could fold the standing bit of the binding down and sew down it by hand.

[@ShannonMakes]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Ksweetpea]

Latest sewing brain fart... when making fabric masks, I thought I was being super efficient about scraps but I flipped the pattern over wrong and ended up with one half of the mask upside down on a super obvious print 😂 ended up with two left panels, more or less, so I cut two right panels and made two masks

[@ShannonMakes]

hahahaha lol, totally been there!

[@marthabenner6528]

I am thinking of doing something similar to this, to finish off a skirt that's been in my unfinished pile for 2+ months. I'm thinking having the front and back skirt panels attached to the front and back part of the pocket, going all the way up to the waistband, so that the pocket acts like a privacy panel. And where pockets comet together in the middle front, use those old fashioned D-ring buckle and twill tape to cinch it together in the front, and then continue with the waist band normally. It won't be as size adjustable, but I don't expect such large body fluctuations. If that made any sense at all.

[@ShannonMakes]

You definitely should try this method (adapted to your own skirt, of course)!

[@oldasyouromens]

16:33: why did you not detach the pocket piece from the side skirt panel and make it so both pockets were facing the front of the skirt? Is there any particular disadvantage to this? Because that's what I would have done - just had them be slightly closer together. And i will try that out when i make my mockup for this skirt, see how it works, but i am wondering why you did not

[@oldasyouromens]

Oh, I see - this form of construction requires the front and back to be purposefully uneven at the beginning and thus the gathers wouldn't be even. So splitting the panels is the best option.

[@Beckyhit]

Is there a way to make this skirt In plus sizes with the existing pattern? I’m not experienced but I’ve been thinking about making this skirt for awhile.

[@ShannonMakes]

You'd have to check the size range of the pattern, I know she tests on a wide range of bodies and has some plus sized range.

[@mosbyjessica]

Ok I'm new to sewing and never used a pattern. I did however buy the digital pattern. But Im embarrassed to admit I don't know how to send the pattern out to be printed.

[@ShannonMakes]

Do you have a printer at home? If so, you can just print the pattern the same way you would print any other document, the only thing is that you want to make sure the scale is at "100%" or "actual size".... you can ask Google, there are many articles that will walk you through it, including this one: blog.seamwork.com/tutorials/how-to-use-pdf-sewing-patterns-with-downloadable-checklist/#:~:text=Print%20at%20Home,check%20%E2%80%9CScale%20to%20Fit%E2%80%9D.

[@SunflowerSummerCo]

For turning sewn tubes, I learned about the Schaller Easy Threader. It works so much better than using the long string. Now I don't dread turning them out😂

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

My most recent brain fart was putting an inverted box pleat on the outside of a garment. The snap is a good idea. I've made this skirt and the lack of a fastener at that point is a bit of a problem during the lacing-up process. Because my skirt is silk, I do find there's a bit of slippage during the day as well. I've resorted to a safety pin, but I really should go back and put in a hook and a few eyes (to keep it adjustable).

[@ShannonMakes]

Yea, a hook with a few eye options would be a great idea too, especially in silk. Also, sometimes inverted box pleats look good when on the outside... I take it that it wasn't quite the look you were going for though!?

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

@@ShannonMakes Culottes/secret pants, and impossible to sew further, let alone wear, with the pleat in the wrong place!

[@ShannonMakes]

awww damn! 😭😭

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

@@rachelboersma-plug9482 Thaks for that reminder when I go to make my secret pants :)

[@NakedSkull]

This table! oh my god... There is nothing more beautiful in the world 😵💓

[@ShannonMakes]

I'm glad you love the table - if you like, I have an entire video on how I made it from literal garbage pulled off the street!

[@NakedSkull]

@@ShannonMakes I'm watching this video right now :3

[@Truffles-fk3du]

Is there a link somewhere to purchase the pattern? I saw a short clip of another skirt made much like this one and havent figured out where i can find a pattern.

[@ShannonMakes]

...in the description of both the videos I made about this skirt!

[@pakedermsfavs9080]

Yay🎉!

[@ShannonMakes]

[@jenninstitches]

I am a solo sewist, meaning I've no local sewing buddies, so levelling hems on finished is a nightmare. I hang my cut fabric like you do and trim because way, way easier. You did such a great job explaining this. Both videos have been awesome watches. So glad I found you.

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you!! Someone else did point out that, depending on your body shape, one might be better off leveling the hem while wearing the skirt (if you have, for example, a well-endowed derriere), but fortunately for me, the leveling-to-the-pattern method works pretty well! Glad you found me too, and I hope you'll poke around a bit in the video archive, there are some fun projects in there!

[@jenninstitches]

@@ShannonMakes yeah, I prefer hemming once on me. But that often requires help if you don't have a good body approximate dress form. I know for an even hang, I need an extra about it cm in the back so I slope my front to back on patten. I've been sewing 35 years and you just learn body mods as you go for somethings that can be applied.

[@ShannonMakes]

I got super lucky and found an antique skirt hem marker at my local antique store a couple months ago, and it works surprisingly well (by that, I mean, the chalk it puffs out is very clear... I have yet to use it to actually mark a hem)!

[@jenninstitches]

@@ShannonMakes i had one of those but my friend's dog deco to chew it 😂😂 they are amazing. I live in Europe and they are hard to come by in my country

[@ToriLynnH]

Wondering how this pattern would work out in linen...?

[@ShannonMakes]

LOL thank you! Favorite comment of this morning, for sure! I'm pre-coffee, so I can't think of the proper word either, but it's like a little bit of humble flair 🥰 And yea... 🖕to the rude ppl in the comments, they can go make their OWN skirt with boring pockets, I'll be over here celebrating my unique skirt!

[@ecologicaladam7262]

I love hand-sewing - gives a much softer finish than machine... But it is slow of course!!

[@lilymoody8828]

I want to make this as you did. Do I need 2 different patterns?

[@ShannonMakes]

Just one pattern, linked in the description

[@astridafklinteberg298]

Super helpful!!!

[@kittybrowning]

Instead of ties can use snap fasteners or buttons or hook and bar ect

[@ShannonMakes]

that would significantly eliminate the adjustability function, but yes!

[@helianthuscraft1105]

Considering there is a button on the front, is this skirt adjustable for real? I'd like to make one for a friend of which O don't know the exact measures so I'd like to sew something without restictions

[@ShannonMakes]

Did I not say that the button was my own addition? I think I did, but it’s been so long I forget. I added a snap because it made it easier, and because I don’t fluctuate at all. If you don’t want it, just don’t add it.

[@helianthuscraft1105]

@@ShannonMakes oh okay, then probably you said so. I watched the video with a lot of noise on the background and Engilsh isn't my first language so I think I missed it. Thank you for the explanation!

[@Ella-iv1fk]

Great tips for pattern hacking and problem solving 👍

[@ShannonMakes]

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching!

[@chaotic_crafter]

🪡🧵❤

[@Qui7422]

Can this be made into shorts or pants?

[@ShannonMakes]

I'm sure you could! Give it a go!

[@juanafgutierrez]

can you omit the pockets?

[@ShannonMakes]

it's your skirt, you can do whatever you want!

[@hollykeddie753]

Hi l ovely lady !! I have just recently found your channel and am in the process of figuring out what my likes and dislikes are with respect to textiles, history and my current climate (right now it's 45Deg celcius and 85% humidity in Australia !). My quick question is, whileI watched the Coquelicot skirt and purchased the pattern, I also have come to the conclusion that I must also be sparing on my delicious fabric I have. So is there anywhere that I mention in your makings which pattern pieces won't be seen? I have the pockets so far, but that is as far as I can visualise ! Thank you so much for a fantastic channel, it's successfully keeping me from my uni assignments very well ! Cheers :)

[@ShannonMakes]

The pockets, the modesty panel and the inner waistband are all inner and hidden from the outside! Glad you liked the video, hope you check out some of the other ones on the channel as well, and thank you for using me to procrastinate from uni, that's one of my favorite roles in people's lives ;-)

[@Hbirdo]

New to this site… and not a seamstress though I have a sewing machine 😂 I have saved a vintage Christian Aujard skirt of a 1970’s-80’s style that my mom and I used to enjoy. We bought it at the NY boutique of the designer duo. It’s an adjustable waist design with pockets! The construction is much simpler than the coquelicot lace-up panel. A simple inner band with a button closure has an over-panel that ties in the back (or front). I added buttons to the inner band to change its fit range. Would you like to see it to adapt and recreate the design?

[@ShannonMakes]

That's a very fun design, I love the idea, and it sounds like it could be very easily adapted for pants patterns! I'd love to see the design, but KZbin is horrible for sharing images... do you have Instagram, or would you prefer to email images? What's best for you?

[@GeeBee111]

Your hand sewing is just beautiful!! Personally, I like seeing hand sewing stitches, it really shows all the work that was put in. Thanks for sharing!

[@ShannonMakes]

Thank you so much!

[@melodyannduke1849]

Yes, I will be trying to make this skirt for this summer. I’m going to Mexico and I have some lightweight material. I can use to do real nice with this. Thank you.

[@ShannonMakes]

Sounds amazing! Best of luck