How to make the best darn automated chicken coop ( Electrical Setup)

[@cookieboi4449]

Great idea , video and explanation... I use a windshield wiper motor, two 12 volt din rail timers, 2 din rail DPDT 12 volt relays, two limit switches and one 12 volt car battery which gives me power enough to open and close for at least a week, after which I take the battery home to charge or exchange for another. A solar panel and a controller would make this easier,,, next step. The system can open or close in 30 seconds, and the power which is used is then only for say 60 seconds a day and to keep the timers alive which is only milli Amps. The windshield wiper motor is overkill,,, and a small dc motor from Ebay would do the job. I use 2 bearings and a 10 mm shaft as winch for a cable. More than one way to skin a cat!!

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@cookie boi Very cool idea using the wiper motor!

[@yusifsuleiman5502]

Nice video. Please, can I use this timer to power a 12volts DC fridge. Thanks

[@ShawnWhetsel]

It should work for anything 12v DC. Good luck!

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

That depends on your fridge and what amps it draws.

[@offgridmangogrower]

Please provide info on 12 v timers and lights from a car parts source…? Are they bright enough?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

The links to what I used are in the description, the lights (I wired up two) are plenty bright.

[@Charlie-wq1gi]

Love your use of rubbermaid containers. MUCH cheaper then PVC boxes from your local HDLOWE. Good Idea.

[@micah4090]

Where did you find that black and decker battery pack

[@ShawnWhetsel]

That's a battery charger off Amazon

[@teresaryden3272]

i really need to know what that black and decker part is.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

It's a battery charger. BLACK+DECKER BM3B Fully Automatic 6V/12V Battery Charger/Maintainer with Cable Clamps and O-Ring Terminals a.co/d/dLqwpQ2

[@REK1DZ]

thank you for the video, this is very useful for what I am trying to do

[@juanmedrano6152]

can you list all the components you used from amazon.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@Juan Medrano I just did in the comments, sorry it took so long to see this comment.

[@Stratiis]

How many volt solar panel would I need to run a door, some lights, and a camera?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

I am no solar expert, but "watts = volts x amps". So you really need to know, are you running all 12v appliances? Then how many amps (or milliamps) are they drawing when in use. So if you have a 12v light bulb that draws 2w when in use, add a motor that uses 2amps that would be 24w, and then a camera I looked on Amazon can be had that is 12v 1amp so 12w. So adding those up you would need at least 38w worth of solar to power the devices in full sun. You would need a battery to store energy at night and a panel larger enough to run the devices as well as charge back up the battery. Maybe a 75w panel could be enough? Don't forget you will need a charge controller to not over charge the battery. Good luck! Lots of videos on solar setups out there that could help you. I have a 45w panel I use my motor for 1min in the AM and 1min in the evening. Lights are for 3hrs at night. So I use about 5w for three hours and 24w for two min a day. So my 45w panel can more than provide the power to recharge the battery.

[@Stratiis]

Thanks a lot!

[@Stratiis]

@@ShawnWhetsel What sized battery would I need?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@@Stratiis again I am no expert and you should do the calculations yourself, but batteries are rated in "amp hours". So you need to do a calculation for how many hours you want to run your devices at how many amps. The camera would be 24hrs a day, lights maybe 4hours, and motor for minutes. You would be using .2 amps for the 2w bulbs each, camera would be 1amp, and motor 2amps. If all three ran 24hrs a day, that would round up to 4amps an hour. 4amps x 24hrs would be a 100amp hour battery to run them all out. Lead acid batteries only can discharge to 50% so you would need 200amp hours worth of battery. Your biggest draw is really that camera that is 1amp per hour the rest is pretty nominal. During the day with sun there would be no draw, so 16hrs of dark in the winter would mean you need ~32amp hours of capacity if you chose a lead acid solution. (50% usable of your 16ah demand) You could buy two 18AH batteries for about $40 a piece on Amazon and get 36AH of capacity at 12v.

[@teresaryden3272]

can you tell me where you got the dc to Ac converter?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

There isn't one, everything in the coop is DC. The batter charger is AC, but the lights and the motor are all 12v DC.

[@21diesel43]

Impressive, thanks for sharing.

[@dakodaspencershmacked5089]

Well done!

[@hellzone100]

There are 12v water heaters fyi and many more 12v stuff just have to order it and look for it hah, ive been setting up alot off my 45w panel. Have a 55AH battery tho.Using a yellow top deep cell. Water pump, timer, irrigation, lighting for my green house. Still need to build a door, just built a coop. With a simple 100w heater i calculated i can run with the heater on all the time for 6 hours with my 55Ah, "8.3amps" Not calculating the panels charging the battery, May install a 100w panel soon. Im currently using harbor freight 15w panels total of 45w.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

hellzone100 Now that's some serious solar. haha

[@haynnv]

Even if this is 6 years old it’s the best set up I’ve seen yet. Believe me my eyes are coocoo from watching so many videos on this. Can you post wiring set up diagram?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

I can attempt to draw one up for you, it's pretty simple. Glad to see it's still helpful for others. The only modification I have done is upgrade the battery size for winter and low solar power. Everything still works for me as you see it!

[@haynnv]

I think I got it. Does your door work like an actuator? Does it need a relay to change the polarity? Most videos I’ve watched with linear actuator they use 2 timers I only want to use 2 total same like yours 1 for door, 1 for light.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

​@@haynnv I wish I could tell you how it worked, but I am no electrical engineer. Essentially when 12v is applied it spins a spool that you thread string over and on the outside lip of the spool is a physical stop tab. That tab will hit a limit switch of some kind that stops the motor from turning the spool and also switches the polarity. Then when you remove power and then reapply, it goes the other direction and does the same thing. Here is the motor I purchased off Amazon instead of trying to design my own hack job. I sprayed mine with clear coat before putting it in the coop so the plastic would last longer on my replacement motor, because the first one worked for about 5 years before the plastic got brittle and broke. www.amazon.com/Add-Motor-Automatic-Accessory-D20-120V/dp/B007IZJWNQ

[@haynnv]

@@ShawnWhetsel got mines up and running similar system as yours. I live in Hawaii so tropical weather year around hope solar panel all da time lol 🤙🏽 wish I could send a pic of my set up pretty proud of it hahaha. My chickens won’t hatch til October so hope I got everything ready by then.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@haynnv Best thing is to use two SPDT timers. That motor D20 Add-A-Motor works when power is applied. The problem I see with that is if, for some reason there is a power failure, It may skip an opening or closing. Let's say you are using battery and a solar charging system. And there comes a time that it is cloudy for several days. Battery starts to drain and the charge controller cuts off the load until the battery gets back up. Well if the load is off and it is time to open then it will miss that. But during the day the battery get back up. Well that motor doesn't know which way it is supposed to go, it only does that opposite of the last time. So instead of it being closed and it not doing anything it will actually OPEN the coop at night.

[@AAAyyyGGG]

Nice project! Have you ever thought about using a daylight sensor to control the door open/closing? that way it would open the door at dawn and close at dusk...

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+AAAyyyGGG thanks! I did think of that, but my chickens don't always make it in till just a little after dark. I would hate to have one stranded outside. If there was a Dawn/Dusk sensor with maybe a delay, that would be best I think for my situation.

[@AAAyyyGGG]

+Shawn Whetsel Hi Shawn, I know what you mean, ours are the same. But I'm sure those sensors have adjustable sensitivity so it won't operate the door until it's really pitch black outside. Alternatively add a time delay relay (e.g. bit.ly/1SviCno) and set it somewhere suitable. But that's getting complicated (although I'm sure you enjoy that!) - at least you could impress the neighbors some more! :-)

[@cameronsheridan5997]

@@ShawnWhetsel add an additional delay on timer for an hour in the circuit for a few bucks....

[@jonistracker4289]

What size solar panel is sufficient to run lights, heat/fan, and water heater? Also, what size battery would I need for the appropriate solar panel? My coop is 3'x6'x5'. Is there less fire hazard with solar?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+Joni Stracker I am no electrical engineer, but if you want to run all that stuff you are going to need a serious panel and a pretty big battery. With a 12v battery it would also depend on the AMP hours the battery can store. Amps = Watts/Volts meaning Watts = Amps x Volts as well. (watt-hours = amp-hours x volts) So... my 18Ah battery @ 12v can produce 216Wh. Watt Hours are how you can determine what all you can run and for how long. LED lights are pretty low draw, but a fan is going to be higher, heat is going to be MUCH higher as its electric passing through some type of resistance to create the heat. That means big AMP draw. I have a 15w panel instead of the original 5w one and it does everything I could dream of. But you are talking a much bigger project than I wanted to do if you are talking heat. Water heaters are going to be the same principle. Just curious, by why a fan and why heat? Chickens don't need either. I run 110v out to the coop in the winter for my tank heaters for the water just to prevent freezing.

[@catfish307]

Isn't it best to give them more light in the morning vs evening? They say that helps them lay earlier in the day.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+catfish307 Great question, and I'm not sure to be honest. I have modified my times since this video, so that I do indeed give them light in the AM and in the PM. I have to adjust it slightly as the summer rolls in, as to not have it running during daylight, but the light comes on from about 6am to 8am-ish (will adjust down as we get more daylight) and also from about 5pm to 9:30pm. (Again I will adjust the time shorter as daylight hours increases.)

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

Yes it is. It helps them wake up and get moving but doing so also lessens the "Laying lifespan" ( I forget what they call that) of the chicken. Hens are born with all the eggs that they will produce during their life. You get more eggs "up front" but they stop producing earlier. A trade off. Back to extending morning vs evening daylight hours. Extending the evening light hours is almost useless. The chickens are already winding down for the day. So if you extend the evening hours without extending the morning hours, you are just wasting time..

[@plantbasedprepper]

Nice Setup! I purchased everything I need to install my own chicken coop door but I'm using a linear actuator. I was wondering how you open and close the door using just one timer? I have to reverse polarity to use the actuator so plan on using both timers just for that but is there a way around that?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

The timer has multiple "jobs" on it. So I have it set to turn on in the AM and then turn off after 1 min, then the same in the evening. On for 1 min and then it turns back off. The motor that raises the door has a physical switch that gets flipped at the end of the cycle and I am guessing switches the polarity on it as it turns the gear to raise the door.

[@prixmulti]

Where can I get that motor?

[@dakodaspencershmacked5089]

@@prixmulti www.amazon.com/Add-A-Motor-Chicken-Automatic-Motor-D20/dp/B007IZJWNQ

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@prixmulti D20 Add-A-Motor

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

No way around that unless you use a dual channel timer. Ask And I will link you to one. Best thing is to use two SPDT timers. That motor D20 Add-A-Motor works when power is applied. The motor has these "fingers". One on each side of a switch, near the top. The fingers are on a dial. The dial Is kinda like an egg timer but moves faster. When power is applied the motor turns in a direction, until one of the fingers comes and flips that switch. When power is applied again, it turns in the other direction, until the other finger hits the switch. The further apart the fingers are set, the longer the motor runs. They are used to determine where to stop the door at. The problem I see with that is if, for some reason there is a power failure, It may skip an opening or closing. Let's say you are using a battery and a solar charging system and there comes a time that it is cloudy for several days. The battery starts to drain and the charge controller cuts off the load until the battery gets back up. Well if the load is off and it is time to open then it will miss that but during the day the battery gets back up. Well that motor doesn't know which way it is supposed to go, it only does that opposite of the last time. So instead of it being closed and it not doing anything, it will actually OPEN the coop at night.

[@melanieperry3869]

but how do you reverse polarity so the door shuts? my timer works good...but I cant figure out how to reverse polarity.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Melanie Perry The Chick Motor has a switch that when it reaches the limit you set, it flips and reverses the polarity at that time.

[@fazimabdool6437]

@@ShawnWhetsel great video !! Can you please assist me with the name any type of motor you used and where I can get one to purchase ... thanks

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@@fazimabdool6437 www.amazon.com/Add-Motor-Automatic-Accessory-D20-120V/dp/B007IZJWNQ?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007IZJWNQ

[@fazimabdool6437]

@@ShawnWhetsel thanks bro

[@harveyboy45]

I like this set up. What's the chicken door motor you use? Have you made a video for the door. Thanks.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+harveyboy45 www.amazon.com/Add-A-Motor-Chicken-Automatic-Motor-D20/dp/B007IZJWNQ is the motor I used, I can try to shoot a video of it in action if you would like, but its snowing and 20 degrees out today so it wont happen right now. Haha

[@mabro891]

His your motor connect direct to 12volt?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

mabro891 yes it is.

[@mabro891]

Ok my timer red light come on but wont execute the fonction to open or close the door do you have any sugestion?

[@mabro891]

I have it! My timmer is a type A and i was connect for a C

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+Ken Komaromi Shop around for price but I bought the www.amazon.com/Add-A-Motor-Chicken-Automatic-Motor-D20/dp/B007IZJWNQ. I am not using an inverter, because everything in the coop is 12v. The motor itself requires a 12v input, but they give you a 120v wall wart that outputs 12v at ~1Amp. So I just cut off the DC plug and tied it directly into the 12v battery, then I tossed the wall wart in a misc parts bin.

[@hackertomobile]

Hi my friend can you replace the timers with Arduino mini pro ... ??

[@ShawnWhetsel]

hacker tom I would think so. Pretty sure those use python for the programming language and that would be capable. Beyond what I wanted to get into though

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

Yes you can. but unless you plan on controlling other aspects of the coop or get really in depth with the timer (as in using an astronomical time clock , like i have done) then don't take up time doing it. If you want to then yes do it. You can do so much with just the opening of the door. Like not opening when its raining or if it's "too cold", or even a laser beam safety "switch" feature. I have mine done with relays but it can be done way easier with arduino.

[@juanmedrano6152]

how much power would I need to run 10 led bulbs like this

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+Juan Medrano It would depend on the bulbs.

[@juanmedrano6152]

It's 10 4w led bulbs

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+Juan Medrano I am no electrical engineer, but if you want to run 12v 4W lights (10 of them) against a 12v battery it would also depend on the AMP hours the battery can store. Amps = Watts/Volts meaning Watts = Amps x Volts as well. (watt-hours = amp-hours x volts) So... my 18Ah battery @ 12v can produce 216Wh. Then... Time = Ah / Amps so back to AMPS! 12v lights that use 4W would draw .33 Amps, on an 18Ah battery would mean 54.5hrs in a no loss system. If you had 10 lights, it would be 40W/12v=3.3Amp and at 18Ah that would be 5.45hrs of run time in a perfect world. But you loose volts over time on a battery and circuits loose energy so I would divide that number in half and expect that you can get about 2.5hrs of run time out of 10 4W bulbs on an 18Ahr battery. Then to really monkey with the numbers, add a solar panel that is adding W to the equation as you are pulling them... lol You are beyond my skills at that point in time.

[@leofrandrup1713]

How do you reverse the direction of the motor to go up and down? How is the polarity switched?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Leo Frandrup I mulled over for weeks if I wanted to build one myself or buy one. In the end between acquiring a motor and all the electronics I would have need, plus the time factor I ended up just buying a pre-made motor. The polarity gets switched on the motor by a switch that gets thrown at the top and bottom of the timer. www.amazon.com/Add-A-Motor-Chicken-Automatic-Motor-D20/dp/B007IZJWNQ

[@deasttn]

Leo Frandrup you can use relays to reverse the motor polarity. If you have the time and don't mind tinkering with this sort of project, you can save some money by designing and rigging stuff up (car antenna, drapery motor, cordless drill, etc.). However, if you don't have McGyver on speed dial, you're probably better off going the way Shawn did and buying the add a motor and then simply wiring it up properly.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@ShawnWhetsel "between acquiring a motor and all the electronics I would have need, plus the time factor" That's funny. All you needed to "acquire" was two STDT timers and a Linear actuator. That's it. LOL

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@deasttn F that car antenna BS. LOL You had me up until you said that.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

How is the polarity switched? Well... That motor D20 Add-A-Motor works when power is applied. The motor has these "fingers". One on each side of a switch near the top. The fingers are on a dial. The dial Is kinda like an egg timer. But moves faster. When power is applied the motor turns in a direction, until one of the fingers comes and flips that switch. When power is applied again it turns in the other direction until the other finger hits the switch. The further apart the fingers are set, longer the motor runs. They are used to determine where to stop the door at. The problem I see with that is if, for some reason there is a power failure, It may skip an opening or closing. Let's say you are using battery and a solar charging system. And there comes a time that it is cloudy for several days. Battery starts to drain and the charge controller cuts off the load until the battery gets back up. Well if the load is off and it is time to open then it will miss that. But during the day the battery get back up. Well that motor doesn't know which way it is supposed to go, it only does that opposite of the last time. So instead of it being closed and it not doing anything it will actually OPEN the coop at night.

[@slowbro2539]

How does your door know to switch direction? Does it have that built into the motor?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Slow Bro Yes. When power is applied it spins a wheel with two adjustable tabs. The wheel spins around until tab A comes in contact and physically flips a small switch. That shuts the power off. Then when you remove and reapply power the motor spins in the opposite direction till tab B flips the switch the other way, cutting power again. Its a pretty neat little motor.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

It doesn't know. That motor D20 Add-A-Motor works when power is applied. The motor has these "fingers". One on each side of a switch near the top. The fingers are on a dial. The dial Is kinda like an egg timer. But moves faster. When power is applied the motor turns in a direction, until one of the fingers comes and flips that switch. When power is applied again it turns in the other direction until the other finger hits the switch. The further apart the fingers are set, longer the motor runs. They are used to determine where to stop the door at. The problem I see with that is if, for some reason there is a power failure, It may skip an opening or closing. Let's say you are using battery and a solar charging system. And there comes a time that it is cloudy for several days. Battery starts to drain and the charge controller cuts off the load until the battery gets back up. Well if the load is off and it is time to open then it will miss that. But during the day the battery get back up. Well that motor doesn't know which way it is supposed to go, it only does that opposite of the last time. So instead of it being closed and it not doing anything it will actually OPEN the coop at night.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/f32UkJaum6uFmbM

[@AlabamaBeeGirlz]

What Watt is your solar panel?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

5W - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FOEUI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@richardhill2187]

Did the larger battery do the trick? I had doubts that it would. The 18 amp battery would not help if the charger would not keep the 5 amp battery charged.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Richard Hill I don't know if its that the panel could keep the small one charged, or if it was just to many cycles on it that little battery. So far so good this summer. I took it off of shore power around mid-March and no issues thus far. I keep it on a tender all winter and it only runs the motor and LED lights during the summer. That coupled with more daylight hours to charge it seems to be fine. Also, the main issue with the old battery was not enough amperage to run the LED lights and power the door at the same time. I have changed it so the door goes down or up after the lights are off.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+Richard Hill The larger battery did help it last longer, but still did not completely do the trick. We have had a warm winter so I left it off shore power till almost the beginning of Dec. I noticed the lights were dim, and the door didn't go down one night. That's how I knew the battery didn't have enough power to handle everything. With less daylight hours, I just need a higher W panel to keep the battery charged up. I have a feeling that if I upgrade from a 5W to a 15W I would be OK. During the summer I was fine, but just not enough daylight and to much demand in the winter.

[@DimaProk]

I don't know why you keep calling battery charger a "stator". A stator is a part in the electrical motor.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Dima Prok you are correct, the word I was looking for and should have said was "maintainer".

[@mrcoz1764]

why do you use 2 timers,,,when 1 timer has 17 functions

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

The timer does not have 17 functions. It only has ONE. Turning the internal relay on and off. Or two if you see it as that. I think you mean to say is 17 programmable time sets. You might be thinking or even saying out loud to the screen "You know what I meant". Yes, yes I do. I am mention that because your question dictates that I do. It only has one function and that function is to turn on and off the internal relay (turn on and off the power to the motor), therefore it can not do a second function of turning on and off the power to the external relay that controls the polarity to that motor. in short one controls the power and the other controls the polarity.

[@creektilghman9187]

If solar panels are only from Avasva.

[@resivince3058]

Hi +Shawn, i am confused :) how do you run that motor on a 12v system? and does the door has any switches? thanks, R

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Resi Vince The chicken motor only requires 12v. When you purchase it, it has a wall plug that takes the 120v (or 240 depending) AC and converts it down to 12v DC. Just like your cell phone charger. Yes the motor has one switch. When power is supplied it energizes the motor and begins to turn. Once it reaches the limit you set, it flips the switch and stops. The only way to get this motor to work again, or remove power and then reapply. It will now spin in reverse until it his the other limit and flips the switch the other way repeating the cycle.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

It wasn't your battery it was that tiny solar panel that wasn't charging the battery efficiently. The rest is a bit much without any return. All you needed was a 8 pin relay and 1 timer, that's right, 1 timer.

[@ipromisemusic]

Can you put links to this $30 setup?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

I just put all the components I had purchased into the description, but it's definitely more than $30. Haha

[@jessefjr]

I like your setup. Did you build the coop yourself? What are the dimensions?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

+jessefjr Yes, I built it myself. I looked at hundreds of builds before coming up with a design and making my own. The coop itself is 6x6x4 with the top added afterwards. I built it in my garage over the winter, pulled it outside and screwed on the roof piece. The run is 14x6x6 minus where the coop is. I will make a video this spring on the finished product, because I have since gone 5x bigger on the run.

[@ryanduckering]

erm..... why don't you just place your water supply in the coop to avoid freezing? or insulate it or something.... having a water heater for chickens to be able to drink is pretty redundant.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

That's not a half bad idea if you heat the coop, but it still gets cold in my coop as I don't heat it.

[@biglonniegruhn]

Buy a real weatherproof box meant for this stuff. Talking only about $35

[@Julio_Martinez75]

Best? LOL.

[@ruannaude8197]

I built a way better easier and cheaper system using light sensor, DPDT relay , linear actuator.

[@blaze8888888800]

Can you post what to buy for your settup?

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@blaze8888888800 Just put all the links into the description.

[@ShawnWhetsel]

@Ryan Naude Post a video, would love to see it!

[@ruannaude8197]

@@ShawnWhetsel dang sorry man I just saw your reply a year later. Sorry. I gifted the chicken coop to my parents and I know since then the light sensor got wet and stopped working.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@ruannaude8197 "a way better" system would not have broken. LOL

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

This video showed nothing on "HOW TO MAKE the best darn automated chicken coop ( Electrical Setup)" It just showed PARTS of the system and a bunch of nonsense about lights and heaters. Oh and it's not even close to being the best. JS

[@ShawnWhetsel]

Can't wait to see your video showing us all the right way.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@ShawnWhetsel Well all you had to do is look at the videos in may channel you you would have see just that.

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

@@ShawnWhetsel Oh and that's a very weird way to defend your video. You don't even try to prove me wrong or point out where you show that yours is the best. No you do the tired ole "well let's see yours" bs Again I already have mine up for years now. All you had to do is go look.

[@Julio_Martinez75]

@@ShawnWhetsel I wanna know where your "HOW TO MAKE the best darn automated chicken coop ( Electrical Setup)" video is. Cuz this ain't it.

[@GhettoRanger01]

Sloppy job.

[@sandyteel7896]

keep your negative comments to yourself. I appreciate the information and found it helpful.

[@cd1168]

talk so much it is painful to watch

[@AztecWarrior69_69]

I agree. Plus all that just to find out it is not even close to the title claim. LOL