How To Make Your Hot Big Block Run Awesome - 1973 Dodge Charger 440 Distributor Recurve And More

In this video: how to recurve a Mopar distributor; an extensive discussion of timing curve basics, vacuum and mechanical advance systems, and advance requirement calculations; how to use vacuum advance off of manifold vacuum effectively; Edelbrock carburetor fuel metering rod and step up spring testing and tuning; and more.
The 1973 Dodge Charger I call "Toolbox" is finally running and driving! But to this point, it's been running on an out of the box remanufactured electronic distributor setup, which is far from ideal. So in this episode, we go in depth on another tuning case, and look at how the vacuum advance pod hooked to a manifold vacuum connection, combined with modifying the amount of mechanic advance in a distributor can be a very effective way to make your hot rodded engine run really, really well.

[@CarTech1976]

You’re a qualified automotive technician who is very knowledgeable. Don’t pay any attention to the “KZbin mechanics” with their silly negative comments who can’t even change a tire. Great content, fantastic video! Thank you.

[@Moonman63]

Watching the vacuums advance diagnostics makes you appreciate modern fuel injection and ecu s.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, maybe. Haha.

[@nathanalbert205]

Thanks for the laughs, along with the lesson! Don't let the angry old men out there get you down. No matter what carb that car has or the direction of the coil, let's agree it's freaking awesome and sounds amazing.

[@Chris-2-of-3]

'73 did make a nice looking Doge Charger. I always admired the '69 ones, but this plum(?) colored one captures attention no matter where you go. 👍💪

[@davidholcomb9961]

Man that was some cool distributor tuning that i never new about Mopars. More advance at idle than at full power. The throttle response you were able to achieve made me a believer indeed. Back in my day i couldn't achieve it because i was not taught those tricks. I always thought ported vacuum was best; now i know not so much. No wonder i was always dialing out the ping and losing response. It was a confusing dance back then and i wish i had an old Mopar now to play with.

[@richardbates2367]

Love the wheels and tires on the toolbox charger and this is awesome that it came out to this car!!!

[@Wayfarer001]

I really dig your whole gig,cool brother,hotdog needs a t shirt, You know, Couldn't happen to a more deserving guy.

[@Bob-Whiting]

Agreed! He puts up with all of US hangin' around.

[@allanperryman388]

I got to see the toolbox charger in person. More importantly, I heard it! Great work, Jamie.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

So I was told! Thanks, Allan!

[@mnanninga4247]

That thing is going to be just badass when finished.

[@edwardpoe7323]

Hot for teacher cam, thanks for that o e

[@mattwhaley9917]

This thing is sweet! A third gen big block Charger is definitely what I need in my life! Love this! It's a hotrod, you'll always be tweaking, nature of the beast. ❤

[@Jaybird66sweptline]

Dude, that was a masterclass

[@dinadaughtry8993]

I have one in my life and I love it,sad part is that i am low on funds and it is sitting in a field at a friend's house, total Mopar wrong doing, but don't hate me,i will fix the rusting floor pans and quarter panel on the rear passenger side, also get rid of the vinyl top other than that it's not to bad, think that firm feel solid k frame mounts and torsion bar mounts will be a great improvement in the front end,i only paid 2400 for it so I guess it's worth the work, no it's definitely worth the time and work, I have spent years looking for another charger a72 but I could only find a 73 and if I can get it done close to looking like this one I'll be happy as a pig in. well you know what

[@sailmaker11]

I worked on a Holley 600 cfm for my Mustang back in the 70's. What a PAIN! I went to an Edelbrock for my van and had no problem with it.

[@jamesparks1966]

Sounds super responsive cool trick with the distributor

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It works!

[@jeffhutchins7048]

I had a Camaro (don't tell anybody) with a GREAT stereo. Being a kid at the time, it was ALWAYS too loud. My Dad and I built a decent small block for it but MANY people thought the "Hot For Teacher" drum solo was the engine at idle. Your comment about that took me back to those times.....things were good!

[@don66hotrod94]

I put a purple shaft cam in my 383. Later on that night, while cruising main street my buddy said, "You got to do something about that bad miss." I couldn't stop laughing.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@don66hotrod94 I once pulled into a gas station in my Barracuda (the one I call Garbage Can.) That thing was rowdy… aluminum headed 360 with relatively whacky cam, fenderwell headers, 3” glass packs and side exit pipes. I shut it off and got out, and a guy standing there said “I can’t tell if that thing is running really bad, or *really* good…” I’ll never forget it. Haha.

[@jeffhutchins7048]

I had a PHORD guy repeatedly tell me my big cammed 318 build had a "miss"........jealousy is a funny thing.

[@michaelnault5905]

Amazing how much it takes to make all that shiny new stuff work. Not surprised the hoods have a sequence to close. I've seen one piece garage doors with hinge springs that size :⁠-⁠)

[@don66hotrod94]

"Good enough for us, Marlin," an old farmer neighbor used to say. LOL

[@qmopar]

Very informative. Thanks for showing all the trials as well as triumphs. It’s never an exact science for every engine. Sometimes what works on one won’t work on another. With that said, the basics you lay out should work relatively well for any engine. One guy told me years ago that the engine will tell you what it needs. You’ve shown how to listen to a big block and respond with what it needs. Thanks for dropping your knowledge on us. I know I appreciate it. I might need some of those boots too. Perfect balance of traction and slip on goodness. Oh, and it sounds amazing!!!👍🏁🏆

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The Redback Easy Escape HD! It’s like *the* mechanic boot. I highly recommend them. Note, they’re from Australia, so the sizes are off by one from American sizes.

[@flipeecupsstuff7632]

My 73 Rallye Charger has a 340 in it but I think I will still follow these tips

[@kurtbyars766]

I've had several serious street and drag cars and I can tell your attention to detail is from good experience. Keep up the good work !!

[@Bob-Whiting]

Jamie, if you wanna stop fast, just GO fast. Easy.

[@burthenry7740]

Lots of good information! As to the leaking coil, back when ignition systems used points, if the key was left "ON" without the engine running, and the points were closed, the constant current flow would overheat the coil. You would literally 'Boil the oil in the coil !' 😁

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I've heard the points aren't big on having the key left on either.

[@joshsulla6560]

Or the ballast resistor! 👍 my dad used to get pissed when we would leave the key on to listen to the radio haha

[@deanpaidas8089]

Oldsmobile coils sit on the intake manifold also. They did it for years.

[@jonathanfreedom1st]

Because Oldsmobile engines were always dope. My other favs

[@Vmaxinus]

I had 3 - 71 Chargers the fuselage style is my favorite. I tricked out my 440 with a Sig Erickson high flow B Cam, headers etc, and it took at least 5 minutes before it would not stall on a cold start. My brakes worked too!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

My Demon is a big cam, no choke, blocked heat crossover special. It doesn’t take five minutes, but it generally takes at least one. I’m well familiar with that action. The stalling I was experiencing happened after the engine was fully warmed. Different deal.

[@dinadaughtry8993]

​@@DeadDodgeGaragethink maybe something in the ignition wiring is shorting out when it is jiggled around the right way?

[@joes3485]

You could have an ignition switch issue. Check the adjustment of the switch position and the actuator rod on top of the steering column under the dash. Of course it could also be an intermittent connection there at the plug to switch or an intermittent switch.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

These don’t use a rod. The tumbler engages directly with the switch. I have of course recognized that as a potential issue - and many other people have suggested it as well. The switch and the entire wiring harness it is connected to are both brand new - but in today’s world, that doesn’t guarantee they are good. In any case, we replaced the leaking ignition coil, and so far all seems well.

[@kurtbyars766]

It was almost brand new and had around 16k miles and I've always been curious what it would've been like. NICE job Sir ! Your doing things correctly IMHO..

[@Mr.mopar71]

Oil out of coil = bad coil. A nice thing to find out when you're 5 hrs away from your tools...hmm you're gonna have a bad time

[@terryschnereger8531]

I've had an Edelbrock coil bust a leak

[@Mr.mopar71]

@@terryschnereger8531 mine was my 90 le baron while I'm away working at a shutdown of a papermill

[@paulhare662]

Back in high school, you could easily identify the guys who ran Holley carbs. Their fingers were all cut up and smelled like gasoline. Us AFB guys had no cuts and smelled like Acapulco Gold.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice 😅

[@dinadaughtry8993]

Gainesville Green,Micanopy Madness

[@user-rn3px3uo2r]

I'm a 70's Man,... I like hair on the muff, I was raised tuff, I never had a care in the world and I still have the best friends today, that I had back in the day. ..."The 70's, all the way".

[@duanebiesterfeld4719]

I have a Chrysler purple shaft cheater dirt oval track cam stock lift but does not advertise the duration but I believe it to be around 308. My ignition curve was 14° initial and 38° total. Open chamber 906 heads but use 6-pack Pistons which are about 10 and 3/4 compression. Using an AVS carburetor I had to drill two small holes in in the back side of my butterflies to bring my throttle plates closer to the air bleeds and the needle seeds I opened up 1: 32 second of an inch over stock. Drilling these holes sure fix my problem and you can always J-B weld the two on the butterfly shut if they're too big. Drilling the needle seats out 130 2nd avenue bigger I was still able to seat my needles. That made the biggest difference on my carb! I love mopars!❤

[@user-mg8xc3pn3p]

I had a 71 El Camino with a crazy cam power brakes was a problem I installed a vacuum canister helped a lot you can use an old coffee can or good old Campbell soup can hey it works😊

[@aquamarine9956]

Great video, very clear and educational. Exactly the type of content I was looking for last summer when I was learning to work on my timing and carb tune.

[@idaholineman5788]

Sounds so damn good!!

[@throckmorton8477]

Very well done presentation! As far as the coil orientation goes, it used to matter, but with better sealing technology around the 'plus' and 'minus' terminals, that's probably a thing of the past. If anyone has any old horizontal mount OEM coils, whether Mopar or the Ford mustard top coils, the terminals were not on centerline. They were offset, with the terminals being above the high voltage lead. But I still always mount the terminals horizontal to keep the cooling oil covering the windings. I also gave up on the leak prone Holleys, especially on older ones when some gorilla tried to stop the leaks with the biggest screwdriver they had, warping the fuel bowls. Too much grief!

[@Belsinor]

I'm currently "restoring" a 72 charger and your videos have been instrumental in all aspects of my adventure. I can't thank you enough, but the Dead Dodge Garage hat and sticker in/on the car are hopefully a start.

[@kurtbyars766]

My first car was almost a 73 same as yours but had the 400 motor and the slanted rear side windows and buckets with the nice shifter. Man did that thing HAUL ASS

[@SE-me2pt]

Fortunately somebody tossed the 72 only stock 440 Magnum Holley in favor of a 71 AVS long B4 I bought my 72 SE. So much fun to tune and tweak compared to Holley gas leakers lol.

[@SE-me2pt]

BTW, a word from experience...never use the stock bumper jack on hideaway setup unless you want to crack the expensive grill.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah. I would *much* prefer the AVS. I never use a bumper jack, period - but that sounds like the kind of thing learned through experience. Haha. So that’s good to know.

[@dinadaughtry8993]

​@@DeadDodgeGaragebumper jacks are great for breaking down tires to get them off the rims

[@dantupper1784]

Sounds and works better. Some combo's just take a lot of time, patience and ingenuity to iron out. And in a way, I'm glad you are showing that- it isn't 30 minutes of test & tune and it's perfect- real life could be weeks of chasing the tune

[@Friedbrain11]

Put the curve at 8 degrees BTDC without the vacuum advance hooked up. Then have 34 degrees all in by 3k rpm. I got my old 383 distributor set that way and it was fantastic. Tried it on a 440 and got the same results. Both engines got their best mileage and power with that curve. Just food for thought. I had to use one aftermarket spring and reform the weights a little to get it all to work. Those aftermarket weights are not good for this curve as they try to set too fast. By the way, you will get better mileage with a Holley carb. Yes, the Edelbrock is easier to tune but they just never get the mileage a Holley does for the same amount of power.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That might have worked for those engines - but at 8 base + the 19 degrees from the vacuum, this thing idled like garbage. And I really don’t think there is anything a Holley does that an Edelbrock can’t as far as fuel economy - especially when the power valve inevitably blows, the o rings in the needle assemblies dry rot and start leaking internally, or when the Holley decides to dump fuel all over the top of the engine. I’ll stick with the Edelbrock!

[@kurtbyars766]

Did the drilling small holes in the primary throttle blades once cuz of a idle issue and WOW night and day different and ridiculous throttle response afterwards ! I highly recommend !

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m hip to that. I also know another trick to accomplish the same thing without drilling, and that may be where I’m going on this.

[@brianandglendaharkin9457]

Yep that coil thing is correct all our 🇦🇺MOPAR V8s are on there side 👍🏻 all things Chrysler keep it coming . 👍🏻🇦🇺.

[@johnmullins2798]

Good info! I welded the other end of the slots on my 440 to limit travel but obviously either end will work. Never thought of doing it that way lol. Bet when ya drive it you kinda wished you'd have kept it. But then all those dollars would have come out of your pocket so it doesn't hurt that bad lol.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

No I’m good 😅 but I do really like how it turned out. It’s awesome.

[@RoadRebelTV]

run amazing well done!!!

[@martind701]

Enjoyed the content Jamie! I'll just have to keep relying on my timing setting on my Bee as it seems to run fine for now. I still have too many other irritating issues to resolve first. Really wish you were here to help out. Take care.

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

I followed the whole build. Very nice work sir. Beautiful car.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thanks!

[@pisomark]

In all my ignorance, i will say my dumb thing... In my old Alfa, the cutting was caused by the ignition block, were the keys go in (I'm italian, didn't know the right words for it)... In short... May be electrical gremlins that plauge this beautiful machine

[@clembob8004]

That 440 really does justice to that car. With that radical of a cam, isn't a poor idle just part of it? Anyway, nice job on getting that 440 to do what it does best - haul ass!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It totally comes with the territory - and we’re expecting that. I’m just trying to make it as livable as possible.

[@scofab]

Giddyap! She wants to run, just about there. Fun hangin' out, thanks again.

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

Sounds healthy

[@bradsrestorations1085]

It sounds very different now! Excellent

[@dominich.601]

Jamie you rock, question authority. 😂

[@rockystanaitis2908]

These are my favorite segments.

[@noberet]

Thank you for your service to our country!

[@richardbates2367]

Cool i myself have a mighty vac it's how I figured out why my heater was not working in my 78 Chevy c20 custom deluxe long bed truck with a 350sbc, and then a year later this same issue not the same symptoms as the truck on my 86 Buick Regal Factory V8 Sport Coupe Oldsmobile roller cam 307 v8.....

[@mikemullay5622]

Buick mounted all of its coils on their sides on the engine for decades as well.

[@OldsmobileSBRocket]

We had a 2010 Challenger with the terrible 3.5 V6, burnt at least a liter(quart) every 5000 km or less. The electrical gremlins are why we traded it in. The 3.6 in our 2017 GT AWD uses zero oil and other than a hairline crack in the 8 speed pan, went to aluminum. I have all the Dorman aluminum upgrades and a PUG intake if they fail. Best car we have ever owned at 140,000 km now. We just put on four 235/55R19 105W XL Continental Extreme Contact DWS06+ tires. I have 18" aluminum rims with 235/60R18 studded tires for the Winter. It is quiet, the Spectre cold air intake added just enough extra noise, mileage and power.

[@jonathanfreedom1st]

As a Mopar fan and If it were most any other cars... Id just call you a tool. But your good on this tool box deal. 😂😂😂

[@BilgePump]

that thing sounds….luscious…

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s really, really good. Just wait until you hear it with the electric cutouts open. Haha.

[@mackaman1964]

Bad coil our car had exactly the same problem, I spent days rebuilding the thermoquad adjusting the float etc replacing leads rotor button and cap finally get the s##ts. With it and replaced the coil and bingo all fixed Old coil had spark but must have been dying when it got a little heat into it

[@jamesparks1966]

down to scientific to tune 🎶 the ride to just the right numbers not afraid to say it ? But you got way more knowledge in this area always good to know things

[@jeffderenzo1500]

i have used edelbrock carbs for 20 years.the covers over the metering rod and piston are supposed to be tightened down they should not be flopping around when you rev the engine. At least that's how they come from the factory. I've never seen them moving around like in this video.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

🤦‍♂️ it’s a test used to verify your step up springs are correct for your application. You temporarily loosen the screws so the covers will move. If you see them fluttering up and down at idle your springs are too strong for the amount of vacuum available. The pistons should pop up as I showed here. No, they are not left loose. That would be a very, very bad idea. I didn’t think I had to say that.

[@jeffderenzo1500]

@@DeadDodgeGarage thanks for explaining i am going to try that test.when i saw the video i got confused.That happens a lot to me lol...

[@duanebiesterfeld4719]

Also once you get enough fuel at idle in that bad boy you'll be able to cut back on that timing initial. 38 and 44 initial that's crazy. All you need is about 12 or 14° initial.

[@ExUSSailor]

That is an awesome color.

[@RichMander1]

20:19 Generally, the advance numbers are stamped into the vacuum advance arm, and mechanical advance base plate (with the limiting slots) on factory mopar units. The trick is, they call out the advance number based on camshaft rotation. So, in order to be accurate, multiply them by two to get the timing numbers we use for crankshaft rotation.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Ah yeah, I guess I could have mentioned the numbers on the arm. I have never noticed a number on an advance plate, so I will be looking for that in the future.

[@minnesotatomcat]

It sounds amazing! I just can’t decide if I like that color or not.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If you don’t, that’s ok - I’ll take everything this color you’ve got! Haha. I just bought a 2018 Challenger in Octane Red and it’s very close. Less purple though. This car has some blue flake in the clear coat. It’s a neat effect in person.

[@milokerrigan7256]

Brilliant! 👍🏼😊

[@watajob]

I was a died in the wool carb guy most of my life. But, these new self learning efi units coupled with a full electronic dizzy is good stuff. Get it close and let the silicon do the rest. Spendy? Yeah. But, much easier to get lumpy cams, loose T/C's, finicky A/F's and precise timing to play nice with little aggravation involved. And, STILL sound like Sox and Martin or Dandy Dick in '68.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I have discussed the computerized timing control as the positive side of those EFI setups in the past. It's the one thing I really like about them - the ability to quickly and easily change the timing curve. But there are a lot of other aspects of them that I definitely don't like.

[@williambryson2190]

On a totally silly but also serious note, I want to thank you for saying “Inches” of Mercury, not “Pounds” like so many internet lame-o’s do.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to do it. Haha.

[@richardbates2367]

Do our Mopar purists and fans notice the Edelbrock carbs are based on the Carter AFB, and the Carter AVS,and the AVS2 carb series is a very impressive design improvement for the edelbrock carburetors!!! And i am even considering that carb will end up on my next project vehicle...., and yeah i have seen some of weird inconveniences with the edelbrock carburetors I've had a 1405,1406,1407,1410,1411, and 2 1403 carburetors sight unseen don't ask...lol

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I'm sure they've noticed. I sometimes go out of my way to say "Carter / Edelbrock" because they are the same animal, but today I couldn't be bothered.

[@codyhollinger6531]

Super useful video. No dead horse's.

[@RichMander1]

22:40 When disassembling the bottom of the distributor, I’ve heard that reinstalling it 180 out to the way you found it messes with the phasing of the distributor. This may be some dreck I heard from some fellers on one of the more prominent mopar forums, but correct orientation of parts removed is something I always pay attention to during disassembly of anything anyway. I think it had to do with the orientation of the reluctor wheel on top. Just put it back the way you found it.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I used to mark them, but I haven’t done that the last couple times and haven’t had any issues with it. The shaft itself is symmetrical. The phasing difference does indeed come from the reluctor - there is a clockwise position (small block) and a counter clockwise position (big block.) I did a video a while back on a ‘67 Charger, on which I found that the reluctor in the brand new distributor had been installed wrong. That’s always a good time.

[@daphlavor]

I had a Mallory distributor once on my GS 455, and it went crazy and died, I went with MSD and issues resolved.

[@LongIslandMopars]

Nice and I haven't even watched it yet!!!

[@Racin-72Charger]

Jamie of you have a reproduction engine bay harness check the pins in the bulkhead connector. I had one on my dads 73 Charger that was partially backed out making a poor connection causing intermittent loss of power to the ignition.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s so funny you say that, because just last night and this morning I was helping a subscriber diagnose an intermittent stalling / no start on a B body. He had thrown a bunch of ignition parts at it and it was doing the same thing, so I told him to break out the multimeter, and that’s exactly what he ended up finding. Which then reminded me of seeing the same thing on Tom’s Roadrunner. So I will definitely be checking now. Thanks!

[@Racin-72Charger]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I’ve learned over the years of working on vehicles that new means new not necessarily good in all cases. That is part of the reason I built my whole harness for my Charger race car, I made every connection in it and I’m confident they won’t let me down. Keep up the good work. Steve G

[@Bob-Whiting]

I'm @ 9:30 and I'm barking "let's take the choke apart!" "choke apart!" lolin' out loud! I need to cut back on the sweet tea, man.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Haaahaha. Good times.

[@user-gm7dm6vb9c]

I had a engine shutting off randomly situation once. I changed the ignition switch. Fixed it for about a week and started doing it again. So since it seemed to work I figured it must be a bad new switch. I took it out tested it and it was fine, so I changed out the ignition lock cylinder. I also put in another new ignition switch to be on the safe side. I was tired of taking the steering column apart. Never had the car shutting off problem again and that was 15 years ago. Now the car it wasn’t a Dodge and I am not saying that’s the problem but it is something to consider.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Absolutely something I have considered. It’s a brand new switch, but of course that doesn’t mean much these days.

[@user-gm7dm6vb9c]

@@DeadDodgeGarage My brother built a 72 charger with a 10.5:1 compression 383 and a high lift, long duration cam. He never did solve finding enough vacuum to power the brake booster. After 10 years of driving with a concrete brake pedal he swapped it out for a 440 with a stock cam. Got to love the bottom end tork on those 440s. He’s a lifelong vintage Mopar guy I’ll ask him if he ever had that random engine shut off problem. Ya never know. I like your approach to the low vacuum problem. It is cool to see it being solved without a vacuum pump!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve seen plenty of random shutting off problems myself. I’m concerned about a part failure, but as an experienced diagnostic guy, I know that it can be quite difficult to confirm a failure until it actually kicks the bucket.

[@brianclassen5221]

Something subtle but could at some point factor in. The small block cars had 5/16 fuel lines the big blocks had 3/8" lines. I have a '71 big block tribute Super Bee.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s not all big block cars - it’s 440 HP powered R/Ts and similar, 426 Hemi cars, six pack / six barrel cars, some police applications, and I’m sure there are others. Like I’d imagine Max Wedge also had 3/8”. But yes, at the big end, this combination could in theory overtax the 5/16” line. It’s right on the edge. In practice, this car won’t ever see the kind of use that would find that ceiling.

[@user-mg8xc3pn3p]

Love your show please keep it going

[@cjm5002]

A 2$ syringe was the best tuning tool I ever "made" for this exact purpose... 100 mL with the 1/8" tip.

[@pcbullets8726]

Hahaha! What a beast that thing is! Love it!

[@65283impala]

What a cool car! I actually had a symptom similar to what you experience with the engine turning itself off at random, it was caused by a failing ignition coil but I could be wrong, I'm no expert at all...

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m not saying you’re right or wrong, but we changed the brand-new-but-oozing coil, and it hasn’t done it again since 🙂

[@65283impala]

@@DeadDodgeGarage . Glad it appears to be fixed now anyway 🙂. It's not something I'll ever forget, when my big-ass Impala's engine suddenly shut off in the middle of a bridge in heavy traffic. Having my father push it while I was hoping it would fire up again and it magically did... that time.

[@lessharratt8719]

I like rochester spread bores. Standing by for the haters.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve had some ok times with them! Also some crappy times with them. In the carb debate, there are a lot of perfectly acceptable answers.

[@K4TORG412]

crazy a engine needs more timing in idle than under load and rpm. but you proofed it

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Right! That’s the weird tuning conundrum of a ridiculous performance camshaft in a big engine like this.

[@bobbowers5708]

that car is cool

[@richardbates2367]

Mopar, Oldsmobile and early Ford ignition coils are mounted on the side and on the engine...

[@ronaldsimmons8346]

I asked you about my 70 charger 383 stalling after a burnout and then crank no start. I think I've tracked it down to a loose engine ground cable at the battery post. I tightened it and have had no issues with two seperate drives. Thanks.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s really interesting! Holy crap. Actually, thank you very much for letting me know, because I just realized I haven’t installed a ground strap yet.

[@randyman828]

Sweet

[@richjordan9375]

Definitely marking this video for when I get to this point on the Challenger. Wish I could get a strip kit (jets/rods) for the Carter BBD! Re: hood hinges; my Challenger does that and you can push the rear of the hood down flat after its closed, and it stays. I was told (and read elsewhere) that it is due to wear in the hinges and that getting them rebuilt would fix the problem but that it would likely come back in not too many years. Hinge design causing excess wear? A scar on back of head is a mark of Mopar honor...

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

We even had a set of Challenger hinges rebuilt, and they still did it. It’s just how they seem to be. Some certain amount of counter intuitive hinge adjustment is supposed to help, or so I’ve heard. If you don’t do as I showed and close the hood from the middle, this one has to be pushed down at the back corners too.

[@SE-me2pt]

The AFB jets should work in your bbd rods are another story.

[@richjordan9375]

@@SE-me2pt Thanks, nice to know.

[@richjordan9375]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I'll have to wait to find out; the hood is leaning against the wall and the hinges are in a box waiting to go to a restorer. And I may need to change the hood anyway; the original got a corner crunched in. It had the hinge problem before and after that damn beer truck rolled back into my car in a parking lot...

[@SE-me2pt]

@@richjordan9375 My experience is with actual Carter stuff but I was told the Edelbrocks are compatible. I used old bbd jets in my four barrel carbs after drilling them to the needed size.

[@davidlewis2681]

Such a great car...❤

[@RandallSoong-pp7ih]

Nice Tune!!

[@bryanyoung3764]

I really enjoy your videos, especially that Dodge charger and I have an idea. Throw away the Holly and the Edelbrock and get yourself a good old fashioned quadrijunk them stupid. Things work under anything I heard. One guy say they just work for. no reason

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve had ok luck with them in some cases. My Buick Electra had one and it ran fine.

[@1Coolbanana]

Yeah man, love your work, cant get enough of your Mopar vids. Silly question..... When you change the amount of distributor advance why dont you weld the outside of the slot instead of the inside of the slot? Wont that take more rpm to start the movement as you preloading the spring a bit?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s an interesting thought. Hadn’t considered that. But I can’t say it’s been an issue. When you’ve already got 20-25 degrees of advance, plus vacuum if set up with that, a bit of delay to get the rest of it doesn’t seem to be as critical - and in some cases it can be helpful in preventing pinging. The idea from Uncle Tony was that distributors are designed to phase the rotor correctly at maximum advance, so allowing the mechanism to reach that position would be ideal. I tested that theory with a Mopar Performance distributor (which limits the other way) and a cap with a hole drilled in it, and found no issue with rotor phasing. It was dead nuts straight. But I still do it this way.

[@1Coolbanana]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the answer 👍

[@user-hi2ev7ug4l]

Good content..... project is nice....thanks 👍

[@mackaman1964]

I hit my head on the safety latch on our car all the time

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s part of the experience…

[@dinadaughtry8993]

What is the name of that color? I think that car looks sweet and the title for mine says it is red and that color could pass as a type of red, you have done an amazing job on the car,i was gonna go with black or forest green but that color has really grown on me, would love to know if or where I can get a complete hide away headlight set up, no hurry right now, still scrounging funds for all the other gremlins that need attention, like rusty floor pans and rear passenger side quarter panel, front valance and a front end rebuild kit (like to get Firm Feel solid K frame and torsion bar mounts) sounds like a lot but it really is not horrible, just needs time and work and you have remotivated me by posting that car and how good it looks and sounds, thanks for giving me hope and motivation

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Glad to help. We’re very happy with how it’s coming together. He says this color is called Inferno Red. I just bought a 2018 Challenger in Octane Red, and it’s pretty close to that. But the ‘73 also has blue metallic in the clear coat, which colors it slightly purple. It’s a cool look. It will look better when the cut and buff is finished.

[@kevinwest3689]

If anyone is interested. There is one of these for sale, I think The same year maybe a different grill.I don't recall. On facebook marketplace in Arkansas I believe. Thirty grand, Seems little hi for the car, but looks nice. On the outside. ✌️

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

This grille doesn’t belong on a ‘73, so that would make sense.

[@tonyb3864]

Good stuff man.

[@josephbonnette7877]

My 70 Sport Fury GT hood did the same. I would have to push down the corners. Lol

[@majorpayne5289]

Good stuff

[@allanperryman388]

Great progress! So, do you have a cheap project mopar? Slant 6, auto, 4 door, some rust that's all good. Thanks for all your information.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The only one I’ve got that meets that description currently is my crappy Volare - and it’s missing the title, so that’s an issue. I also just got some mud tires for it, so I have some plans. Haha.

[@Wayfarer001]

Ooooooh..... Ok,makes sense now.