How to MINIMIZE PURGE WASTE! - Calibrate Bambu Lab AMS

[@jasongunbeard9644]

Glad to see you're still making videos. All info no bs

[@engineer3dprints]

I will continue to make the best videos I can like this

[@cinderwing3d]

One of my members just shared this video with me and it really helped me understand! Thank you for the video and for featuring my dragon!

[@engineer3dprints]

Thanks for providing the model :)

[@canadianoperator]

As someone who’s just ordered their X1C this is great to see and will be one of the first things I do when I set up my printer. Thanks!

[@engineer3dprints]

Awesome, you will love the X1C

[@canadianoperator]

@@engineer3dprintsI got it yesterday and it’s incredible. It has far surpassed all of my expecations.

[@canadianoperator]

@@engineer3dprints I love it! Been printing with it since it arrived :) Though i wanted to ask, should I do this every time? Or would it work to just go between two completely opposite colours (like red/blue, black/white) as those would likely be the worst in terms of how long it would take for the bleed to go away and a full purge to happen? There's another method of just halving the multiplier which is definitely not as precise, but Teaching Tech said that it works great and there's still margin left over. Thanks for the help :)

[@engineer3dprints]

Halving the multiplier is a quick method that should get you close. If you want to reduce material as much as possible, you’d want to calibrate for each color combination. Going from a dark to a light color requires much more purge than going from light to dark

[@canadianoperator]

@@engineer3dprintsthanks very much!

[@EpicBenjo]

If I’m printing something for myself that I’m using as a tool and don’t mind if the colour bleeds through the walls, I’ll flush to infill. Other than that, just change the filament flush multiplier to 0.4 or 0.5, turn on the prime tower, and call it a day. I’ve printed a Santa clause that used red, white, beige and black, and there was no noticeable colour bleeding at 0.5. This was with Bambu Lab PLA filament. If you’re using other filament, YMMV.

[@daviddillman6777]

Awesome video. Right to the point...no fluff. Just got my AMS and can't wait to try these settings.

[@godfroy22]

Est-ce que cela reste enregistré dans le logiciel ou il est nécessaire de prendre note et d'introduire les données à chaque impression ? Merci pour la vidéo, très utile.

[@barban73able]

Thank you for sharing my project on KZbin. I've added the link to your video on the project page. I hope it's not a problem and that you appreciate it

[@engineer3dprints]

Awesome, thank you! I was going to reach out and ask if you’d like to add my video :)

[@xargon1234]

There is a setup that you can retract a bit of the filament before the cut to push this down even more. You can also set the flushing volume to .5 or so, and it should get the values close to the actual values that way you dont have to keep a spreadsheet for all of you're colors.

[@BatXDude]

That's changing the g code for the printer BUT it erases after updates and can be confusing to some. I do think bambulabs should implement that code into their printers though

[@engineer3dprints]

Agreed 🤞

[@xargon1234]

the retracted gcode can be saved as a printer profile so all you have to do is select it. the flushing volumes is per project you can start at .5 and go up if you need to have a bit more purge for darker colors @@engineer3dprints

[@CB-ec4vg]

Feels like there should be a way programmatically in the code to set these values, so you don't have to have your notepad++ open each time to determine color transition flushing values. I have an AMS coming this week, so this was perfect timing! Thank you so much!

[@engineer3dprints]

That would be awesome

[@ob14fun]

I changed the multiplier to 0 just like in the video at 0:52 and the right sides (w/o the numbers) were completely solid with no transition whatsoever.

[@pedrofigueiredo5465]

Same here

[@CliffLusk]

Same Here

[@epistemeiria]

same

[@cdp8748]

same

[@felixselter5146]

Same

[@buetang]

very helpful, thank you Been having issues with support interface material being in a layer of my print post most recent update.

[@fcg_kingant]

Godspeed. You are a time saver

[@nathanhaviland4227]

I used your file from maker world which works great if you use it to flush 1 and 2 which is what is default but if you try to change the colors it prints out of order I even tried your 8 color one and it prints out of order right off the bat. I can only get it to work if the colors i want to calibrate are loaded into 1 and 2 on my ams unit

[@scottwilson8880]

Thanks . After many 3d printers over the years starting with a flash forge dreamer in my the cumbersome two extruders neither happy :)) anyway I just Black Fridaid an A1 with ams life so can’t wait to get it tuned . Your short was excellent clear and I wish other windbags all across the tube would use this format . I’ve subbed you now regards from cold Scotland.

[@engineer3dprints]

Awesome, you'll love that printer. Thanks for subbing, I won't disappoint

[@chuxpie]

thanks a lot for this video

[@tomwar4564]

wow czy to ustawienie jest dla każdej drukarki p1s?

[@comeacross728]

great video, but for ams with four colors and used in one print, the first experiment would take a long time to complete, any easier way to do this?

[@engineer3dprints]

You could simply change the flushing multiplier to 0.5 or 0.6 which will reduce the purge without fine tuning the calibration

[@nathantyree192]

same im having a hell of a time figuring it out

[@beaconofwierd1883]

Thanl you, I’ve been looking for a print to calibrate this value :) It also tells me that I can go down less than 12% waste if I pre cut the filament. Currently no slicer does this, but it’s good to know how much it could save :) Also opens up the oppertunity for mixing colors during printing, just do lots of cuts. Would take a looot of time tho, but you could do full color prints with just one ams :)

[@iPrint3D]

You can't always purge to infill. Light to dark colors will bleed through the walls

[@engineer3dprints]

Yes true

[@juryfilanti]

good to know, but the biggest jump is the calibration anyway

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

If you are using 3 walls you may get away with it

[@ingGS]

Other channels have done the test and barely any bleeding is visible through the walls.

[@ChristopherDickenson-zt1rv]

You can also disable the purge tower. I just wish that could be made a default settings as I always disable it when I can.

[@arnyekinfluenszer]

What about the prime tower? On or off?

[@ethanprosser5268]

I tried to do the calibration but my p1s kept turning it into poop still and I’m not exactly sure why, all values were set to 0, am I missing a setting that you didn’t explain in the video, thanks :)

[@chrisgr00ver]

was there a change to the project file? The size of the model when I import to Bambu seems so much larger than what you're printing in this video. Edit: nevermind, I guess the setting defaulted to A1 mini, had to switch to P1S now it looks right.

[@DominionDroneDaily]

So, do we need to do this with each color & filament type that we will be using ?

[@TylrVncnt]

This looks great def will check it out!!

[@engineer3dprints]

🍻

[@WKfpv]

Tried this several times, for some reason it doesn't work. Maybe the new firmware overrides something. So I just designed two simple rectangles the same size of yours, assigned different filaments and it worked! Then I used one print of your design as a ruler to measure 👍

[@engineer3dprints]

Neat idea!

[@TapticDigital]

Very good presentation, I’m excited to give this a try. Thanks for making it simple and straightforward!

[@engineer3dprints]

Thanks for the comment!

[@Sully-83]

Should this be done before every multi color print when u change to a diff color?

[@oldsalty3d122]

This is great for two color prints, how would you use this calibration for a print that uses more than just two colors? How does one determine what color is going to be printed next so that those colors can be calibrated to minimize the waste? Lets say I’m printing with Red, White, Blue, and Black. Do I need to calibrate Red into all of the other colors, and so on before I print the actual model? If so, I’m sort of taking the extra time to do that instead of printing the model, and wasting extra filament in the process. I guess I could calibrate all my colors from one to the others, and just record my results for future use.

[@engineer3dprints]

You would use the same method, but need to calibrate all combinations of colour changes. For 4 colors, that would be 12 calibrations. You’re right, it’s a bit of extra work up front but in the long run if you record your values you would save a lot of time in the future. You’d be surprised how much you can reduce your print time and wasted material if you do have 4 colors in one print.

[@engineer3dprints]

You could also simply change the flushing multiplier to 0.5 or 0.6 if you want to quickly get a close approximation

[@oldsalty3d122]

@@engineer3dprints thanks for the reply, I think I will start my own personal data base of purge settings between colors. A spreadsheet would work great for this. Thanks. 😁

[@miatafan]

I have wondered if instead of a purge tower you could print a more desireable, or better looking object, with the caveat that the color scheme will be semi random

[@DboyinDtown]

Great vid ty. Thought there was an issue with the extruder cleaner

[@engineer3dprints]

Glad it helped!

[@MrKylebobile]

Does this have to be done to every single filament every time you swap the filament? And if you do this once to a filament roll, change it out, then put it back later, do I have to do this again?

[@engineer3dprints]

No, you will need to do this for each combination of filament color changes, but if you swap a roll later on back to the same color, you can use the same values

[@kayzeursoze]

hi thank you very much, it's incredible I save more than 50% filament and 30% time for a project. But something wrong I can't keep the settings saved when I modified the numbers, I clicked ok and when I bring a 3mf project, the system put the default numbers for flushing volume. Do you have an idea to keep saved?

[@engineer3dprints]

It seems Bambu Studio doesn’t have an option to save yet.. hopefully this will come in a future update

[@evgeniy-vlog]

Thank you! I'll try this settings in my next print.

[@engineer3dprints]

Good luck!

[@Jesterthe]

This is really very useful, I will try it out. Thank you very much!

[@engineer3dprints]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Marco_Bianchini]

Thank you so much!

[@engineer3dprints]

Glad it helped!

[@ashleypayne1108]

Hey do you have to do this with every colour or just once its on its set and done for every colour?

[@engineer3dprints]

Every colour combination would require its own calibration values

[@DTStudiosMC]

Thank you!

[@engineer3dprints]

Thanks for watching

[@jpeero]

remember to change the sparse infill direction to 0 degrees. mine was set by default to 45

[@juryfilanti]

I have a question, my P1S should arrive early next week (my first 3d printer), do you need to do it for every color or brand or is like bambu played safe with huge value and you can just determinate the right one and use it for everything

[@engineer3dprints]

Ideally you would dial it in for each colour but you could be conservative and use around 250-300 for all and you should be fine

[@dip1697]

Do I still need the tower if I am purging inside as infill?

[@engineer3dprints]

Yes I believe you do still need it

[@canerde]

Tam aradığım bir çalışma. mükemmel fikir gerçekten teşekkür ederim.

[@engineer3dprints]

Glad it helped!

[@jamessmallwood7448]

how would i go about doing a 4 color print?

[@engineer3dprints]

Stay tuned for my next video :)

[@jamessmallwood7448]

@@engineer3dprints have you got one out for the 4 colors?

[@sophiemulders]

Would this work for AMS lite?

[@engineer3dprints]

I believe so!

[@kristapsberzins3867]

If model has 4 colors, this test needs to be done for every color combination twice. Red / black / white / brown? red/black , black/red, red/white, white red....etc?

[@ozskeeter]

flush to infill its worth having more than the default 2 walls to minimise bleed through effects ... if I have a lighter outer layer (eg. white, yellow) I will increase it to 4 walls, all dark outer layer 3 walls is usually sufficient.

[@NavickasFranck]

totalement genial !!!!!

[@engineer3dprints]

Glad it helped!

[@MrRobin810]

Somehow this model isnt printing properly anymore. Had so much success with it in the past, but lately it wont properly print

[@yoannbzh7396]

Thanks a lot !

[@engineer3dprints]

❤️

[@B0A2]

I'm only seeing one plate when I open the file

[@engineer3dprints]

Can you use that one?

[@jinyoungkim3335]

awesome

[@engineer3dprints]

🙏

[@cdp8748]

I must be missing something. I can't seem to get the fade to happen

[@engineer3dprints]

Have you checked your flush volume values?

[@sciencesaves]

also, you dont need a prime tower