How to Mix Alumilite Resin

Getting bad or inconsistent results when using Alumilite casting resin? In this video I go in-depth on the two most common reasons for getting not so stellar results with Alumilite: Measuring and Mixing.
I've been getting lots of questions from beginners not getting good results with Alumilite, and in most cases it stems from not measuring Part A & B correctly or not getting the resin mixed well.
With the new shop setup, I wanted to get some really good video shots of my mixing technique as well as discuss some issues that can arise when measuring the resin.
I'll be on vacation when this video posts, so I do apologize for not responding to comments right away. Not to worry though, I will respond as soon as I can.
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[@tfae701]

Hi, I am just wondering if you're using alumilite clear cast for this video? I am using Amazing Clear Cast have been mixing by volume, using a graduated mixing cup and haven't had consistent results. I am sure to make sure that there is no wavy streaks, scrape the sides of the cup and my stick off as a stir, but most of the time there's an odor to my resin even when it does harden all the way. Does mixing by weight seem to not have an odor? Also, I see you're from NV (Battle Born tshirt gave it away LOL), which is where I'm located and curious of if you have to adjust for the dry climate and high elevation? Thanks a lot for the video and hope to hear back from ya.

[@ZacHiggins]

I'm using Alumilite Clear in this video, it's a urethane resin measured by weight

[@fefabre]

Zac the Alumilite web site says mix the A and B 1 to 1 by volume. Does weighing give the same result? I’ve been successful using volume. Should I check temperature before pouring?

[@kristinekerr3688]

My resin never set. What’s the best way to clean my moulds? I’m using Prima silicon moulds makes no appliqués for furniture.

[@miamited69]

Your channel was recommended in one of the casting facebook groups. I am glad I found it. I am just getting started with resin for my pen etc turning. Lots of great info and have subscribed. What is the recommended resin for a beginner?

[@DH-lq6lf]

Zac, I wish you would do more video like this one and the old ones. I am too impatient for all the yakking in the live broadcasts.

[@kandiecandelaria1423]

After you weigh Aluminite slow part A do you tare and then add the same amount of part B? I am coming up short and not zeroing before I add part B

[@greedo-diedforusall]

Wierd - my clear cast was 1:1 by volume. Alumalite clear cast

[@raythebaggchaser]

Do i need a scale that has fl oz or will any tripple digit scale work?

[@stclairstclair]

i cut the end of my stick off with a scissor to make it flat

[@DeborahAndersongoravens]

What is an alternative for a pressure device?

[@rodneypage9788]

Great real time lesson, thanks

[@DaleDansie]

Hi Zac, I have watched this video three times already because I'm casting my first blank today. A few questions for you: 1-What scale do you use? I used my wife's USPS scale and it turned off in the middle of pouring side B. 2- Somewhere I thought I watched a video that said you could mix the color after mixing side A and B, is that correct? That is what I did. My problem with my first blank, it didn't harden, it is still sticky. Will it harden with time? I think I already know the answer to that question, but I'm going to ask it anyway :-) Oh I left it in the pressure pot for 25 minutes at 50 psi, maybe I should have left it in there longer?

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Dale, I use this scale I got on Amazon: amzn.to/2cWLVDh It works pretty good for this stuff, and you plug it in with the a/c cord, it won't shut off in the middle of measuring. I've used one that had an automatic shutoff, it's the worst when that happens! As for mixing in colors, I usually mix the part A and B first then add colors if I'm using Alumilite Clear resin. I add the color to Part A first, then mix when I"m using Alumilite White resin. The main reason for doing it differently is the set time, you have longer to work with the Clear but only 2 minutes with the White. It sounds like the measurement was off or you didn't stir it up enough if it's still tacky. It may be possible to bake it in the oven to cure it, but I don't think it will work if the resin didn't get mixed up and/or measured properly. Check which resin you used, if it is the "Amazing Clear Cast" product, you would want to measure it by volume, not weight. That product also has a really long cure time. I use "Alumilite Clear". They have two different versions of it, the 'regular set' product has about a 1 hour demold time, so you'd want to leave it in the pressure pot for about an hour. The 'slow set' version has a 2-4 hour demold time, so you'd want to leave it in the pressure pot longer, 2-4 hour. I'm finding 2 hours is long enough for it to cure right now with the temperatures up in the shop, but I will probably extend it in the winter or if I"m using a very small amount of resin, like the tube-in molds. I have direct links to the resins I use on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/ I just realized I don't have a link to that scale on that page, so I'll need to add that to it

[@CrownofJewells]

Zac, I just wanted to say, "Thanks". I have been gathering my equipment and supplies for making pen blanks. It has taken me about six months. I just started stabilizing and casting wood, pine cones, and sweet gum balls. I'm using alumilite with the full set of there dyes and powders. I've made eight castings, and am amazed at the beautiful castings I have made. I haven't had even one bad casting, and the colors and combinations are incredible. My success is only because of your videos, and others like them (by Dema and others). Thank you for making me successful in this endeavor.

[@ZacHiggins]

That's awesome!! I'm glad that you're both enjoying it and having success with it. I get so much enjoyment out of resin casting that I vowed to help others out so they could enjoy it and experiment with it too. I hope to see some of your creations some day, shoot me some pics if you get a chance =D

[@carlwells9461]

Well done, very informative. Thank you

[@ZacHiggins]

My pleasure Carl, glad it was helpful =D

[@aeon726]

Just surfing around and found this vid. I'v seen your videos before, but this time I finally realized (a tad slow on the uptake--adult onset ADD being what it is, and all) why some say weigh alumalite and some say measure by volume. Always clear and nicely presented tutorials. Thanks and keep up the good work.

[@NortelGeek]

I tried to make some keycaps with Alumalite, and most of my casts were "floppy". 😢

[@JamesGarwood]

Zac thank you for all the videos, I have my very first casting setting up as I type and couldn't of done it without you, thank you :)

[@ZacHiggins]

That's awesome James!! I'm glad that the videos helped out and got you casting. The fun is just beginning =D

[@LynnLaceyLLWW]

Thanks Zac - just starting to use Alumilite in the few castings I do. Very helpful.

[@ZacHiggins]

Glad it was helpful Lynn! Happy Thanksgiving =D

[@sethham5029]

I for one like as much info as possible, even on what seems like simple obvious things. Thanks for diving into the details for us! In my early castings my two colors would run together, took a while to find a video on temp before pouring into mold. The brand "resin 4 art" is VERY slow to cure and you need to let your red & blue cups of resin sit for 10 minutes before you pour or you will get purple!

[@huwdavies5264]

Hi Zac, found this in your back catalogue. Great tips which I will be using as my adventure into using Alumilite has been delayed since we last spoke. Now ready to do some casting. Cheers, Huw

[@atozartstudios2911]

Hello Zac wonderful videos thank you for all the great info. Both my husband and I enjoy watching them and we have learned quite a bit. I have started stabilizing wood, and want to get into hybrids. I have had a lot of bubbles and clean up to do after I stabilize with cactus juice. After reading a lot I believe part of the issue is that my wood is not dry enough. My question is once I get the wood down to 0 moisture, how do I keep it from gaining any back before it is cool enough to drop in the cactus juice? I live in Wisconsin so we have A LOT, A LOT, of humidity. I also have some cleaning questions, I have watch several videos from you and some other making hybrids out of burls. I have some beautiful burls I want to use. But from everything I have read and seen when you stabilize the wood, you always get some of the bleeding and bubble from it cooking. How do I stabilize my burls, and clean them up while leaving all the natural burl figures, and edges? I also have some very holey wood from ants and wood, I think they would make beautiful hybrids, but when I stabilize those the wholes tend to full partially, when I stick them in the over to cure. I have read and see that you use cactus juice to stabilize and allumilite to make hybrids, so I am assuming there are no issues with the allumilite adhering to the cactus juice?

[@aaronmeredith5453]

Really, really good info. Thanks! This will help out a lot of people. Great video.

[@Hmatza1]

what is temperature for the be before pouring resin molds

[@daletprescott3458]

thanks it helps a lot, I am just getting into using Alumilite.

[@JimE6243]

That is basically what I have been doing. One thing puzzling to me is, my tube are 3/4" ID and 7" long. I put a silicon plug in the bottom also. I pour a 5 1/2" blank with a total of 50 g of product. The first pour I did I mix a 50 g A and a 50 g B and luckily had two tubes ready. I also have the same issue with the plug wanting to slip a little after I spray them with the Stoner. Good info. Thanks. JimE

[@ZacHiggins]

Jim E Yeah, I'm thinking the 100g per tube number is a bit off too. I must have been using longer tubes before because I had a bit of extra myself. I usually have an extra tube ready to go though, so a bit over is never a problem. Yeah, I sometimes have to keep an eye on those stoppers, but they usually work fine. I think it happens when I get a little trigger happy with the Stoner and give it a little more than it needs.

[@deejaudible]

What is the deepest you can pour Alumilite?

[@gerrygrenon]

i am using ECOPOXY epoxy resin. question: how do i get the 'swirl' colors. mixing of different colors to get different color patterns. Yhank, hope my question is clear enough.

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Gerry, You just mix dye/powders in the resin in separate cups and pour them into a mold. Helps to wait till the resin is getting to the gel state when you pour to keep colors from bleeding together

[@tdkrei]

Good job Zac. Your thoughts. I mix with a scale (not a tenth scale but closer then .5 gram +/-.1) however I mix the colors or Pearlx in either the A or B cup then mix them together well and so far has worked but is something lurking in the future? I also noted a difference in hardness with the various Alumilites with the short time being the softest and I use that to make my ribbons, very flexible. Thanks again and have a wonderful day.

[@ZacHiggins]

It's best to measure the Part A and Part B in one cup with the Clear product because it's thicker. Pouring one into the other will most likely throw off the mix ratio. I do it differently with Alumilite White though because it's water thin and has such a short working time

[@ivfour4]

Thank you! Thank you! You do a GREAT job explaining to the average guy. I have not started pens yet, but have been thinking a lot about doing it. I have watched several videos on KZbin, but I have not come across you. I just watched a video of "Wyomingwoodturner" and he gave a shout out to you. So I watched a couple of your videos, you do a great job of passing on the love of pen making. Please keep making the as you call it "Casting 101" videos. Thanks again Jerry Ivy Texas

[@ZacHiggins]

+Jerry Ivy Thanks Jerry, I'm really glad you found my channel. Lots more casting videos are coming soon and I'm also going to add more projects so you can see the final product from the castings too.

[@keithdavishftpenstoreinstu9467]

Greetings Zac, I have watched several of your videos and appreciate all of the good advice. I am trying casing after years of making wood pens. When mixing Alumilite green dye with red Pearl Ex I am getting a variety of colors from blue to red swirled together but no green. I tied adding white dye with the green and got blue green. Am I doing something wrong or got a bad bottle of green dye. Also how long should it take for the Alumilite Clear to start gelling before I add additional colors? I want to avoid getting to much swirl pattern in some blanks.

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Keith, If you mix red pearl with green dye, it will end up being a blended color. You'd want to mix two separate cups and then pour them into the mold separately to get multiple colors in a brick. The white probably just diluted the green dye, try adding more green dye to the mix (up to 5% factored against the Part A amount). How long you wait to pour multiple colors will depend on the ambient temperature and how long the resin takes to set up. With Clear regular set, probably about 3 minutes or so, Slow Set Clear probably 7-8 minutes at least

[@t3006711]

ok sir . waiting your new video. thanks

[@minimarket8567]

"I don't need to be driving Miss Daisy with my mixing stick." Had to subscribe..

[@ZacHiggins]

LOL You gotta whip it!! Welcome aboard =D

[@jonathanbush6197]

Thanks very much! I need a pressure pot at least 14 in. X 9 in. and about 2 in. deep. Have you ever heard of such a thing? I need to draw all the air bubbles out so the top surface is flat and smooth. Also I would need a gas mask If I were mixing Alumilite on a regular basis. Something that filters out organics. That Toluene is nasty imo. I am concerned about your health.

[@ZacHiggins]

Are those dimensions the size of the mold you want to put in the pressure pot? C.A. Technologies 5 gallon pot is 12.5" diameter by 15 deep. Just tip it on it's side and insert the mold that way. Check out my video on casting larger molds: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4qaq62wbLx6gpI I work in a well ventilated area, don't think there's much need for concern working with urethanes and epoxies. Polyester resin is the one that is super toxic, I won't even use that stuff

[@strumm7733]

I love casting but they are coming out of the pressure pot with the main color solid on the bottom and all the color on top. It's weird. Any idea why?

[@ZacHiggins]

I'm not sure, some pigments are heavier or lighter than others. Maybe try waiting until the resin is nearing the end of the working time when it starts thickening up to pour it. Won't have time to settle much

[@ward459]

Hey Zac, thanks for the vid and saving me some $. I've been shopping for graduated cups, but now I know they're not needed. One Q though, where did you get the stoppers pressed into the bottom of the tubes?

[@ZacHiggins]

Glad it helped! I found the plugs on eBay. I think it helps to search for powder coating plugs

[@t3006711]

sir. for casting wood with resin, it's need to stabilized first all wood each time to make sure no more all moistured in the wood . it's suitable enought if i just dry the wood direct to the sun? tq sir

[@ZacHiggins]

+Muhamad Mohd Aziz You would want to bake it in an oven at around 220 degrees F if you aren't stabilizing it. You're shooting for zero percent moisture content. Stabilized wood works best though, it doesn't float in the resin when you're casting it.

[@oldmanwoodcraft]

Hi zac I need some help . I am new at Alumilite i am getting good results but .... i am getting a white layer on top of my cast . then i got a technical question, do you think i that i can do a multi layers Alumilite by pouring 1 layer lat it cure and then another layer and so ? Ahron

[@ZacHiggins]

I'm not entirely sure what the white layer may be. Do you have a filter on your air line? Could be getting moisture in there. Multi layers are possible if you do next pour quickly after it sets up or you scuff the top layer before pouring the next layer on. I cover some of that info in my video on multi layer pours: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZa5f32Li9x6pZI

[@oldmanwoodcraft]

Thanks . yes I did put a Filter on the air line . i appreciate your help .

[@gomezsandy]

confused as the Alumilite youtube tutorial on this stuff says mix by volume NOT on a scale???

[@ZacHiggins]

It depends on which Alumilite resin you use. Alumilite is a company name, and they have a bunch of different resins. "Amazing Clear Cast" is by volume, but "Alumilite Clear" is by weight. Best to read the instructions for the resin you are using before you measure it out

[@keithdavishftpenstoreinstu9467]

Thanks, I will give that a try.

[@scottie1769]

Great video Zac. Really like the camera work, I could see the resin mixed extremely well when you were done. I never thought about scraping the inside bottom corner of the solo cup. Now I know. Great tip.

[@ZacHiggins]

Scott Allen Thanks Scott! I was really hoping to get good footage on this one. I'm really trying to improve my camera work for my videos, and the new shop layout helped a ton! The scraping really helps out with Alumilite, glad I could share something new.

[@andrewkerr8616]

Great video! Lots of helpful advice. One question. What are you using as a plug in your tubes? I’ve see duct tape used before but wasn’t sure what you are using. Thanks

[@ZacHiggins]

Thanks Andrew, glad it was helpful for you. I use silicone plugs for 3/4" pvc pipes. They are just so quick and reusable, it's the easiest way I've found. I have links to where I get them on my "Tools I Use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

[@Bob_H]

Again, thank you for the education

[@PeterAgostiniJdcap26]

Hi Zac getting into casting. , which scale do you use ?thank you .

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Peter, glad to hear you're diving into casting!! I think you're gonna love it!! I use an American Weigh brand scale that is accurate to 0.1 grams. I have a link to the one I use (and many of the other tools and supplies I use for casting and turning) on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

[@kemuelpratt3730]

Thanks for the info. But i was hoping you would show how the clear blank turned out.

[@ZacHiggins]

kemuel pratt I meant to get photos of the blanks before I posted the video, but totally forgot to. I'll get photos when I get back from vacation and post a link to them in the show notes.

[@travisjones2102]

Can you send me the link to where you get your alumilite off of Amazon I need the gallon kit

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Travis, I don't recommend buying resins from Amazon or big box stores because you never know how long it sat on the shelf for in a warehouse, and with the short shelf lives of most casting resins you may get old resin. I buy Alumilite from Turntex, and they have all the different sizes up to 10 gallons. I have links to where I get all my resin, supplies, and tools on my "tools I use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

[@Lee-qp6gf]

I think it's very informative and helpful.

[@ZacHiggins]

Lee Waterman Thanks Lee!

[@richdiaz2049]

Zac I've watch a lot of your videos, very informative enjoy watching you. I am just getting into casting I was wondering how to mix specific colors. such as the Greenbay colors, or the gold for the 49'ers, also Emerald green. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Rich, unfortunately that's a tough one. The easy way to go is just use similar pearl powders to get it close, but dyes require understanding color theory and many hours of testing until you get it right.

[@richdiaz2049]

thanks Zac I appreciate the help

[@johncarlton5766]

How fast of lathe speed to turn Allimite resin???

[@ZacHiggins]

You want to turn it as fast as safely possible. For small items like pens, you will want to turn the lathe all the way up

[@emilykrastev3879]

Hi Zach, where did you get the pumps for your jugs from? I live in Florida and use dehumidifier in my resin room but I'm still petrified of the humidity. I wonder if it's better for me to pour the Alumilite into smaller bottles, and use them instead of pumping it from the gallon jugs. Any suggestions? Thank you! Emily

[@ZacHiggins]

Hey Emily, I got the pumps from Alumilite's website: www.alumilite.com/store/p/1002-1-oz-Pump-Dispenser.aspx I don't really have any first hand experience dealing with humidity since I live in Nevada, so I'm not sure if there would be any issues with it if you use pumps on the gallon jugs. I'd imagine they are sealed pretty well, but it would definitely be safer to store the gallons in a less humid area and use the small bottles. Alumilite has smaller pumps now too that might make things a bit easier: www.alumilite.com/1/8-oz-pump-dispenser-fits-16-fl-oz-bottle.aspx

[@emilykrastev3879]

I think that if I have to transfer the resin into smaller bottles several times that will expose it to more moisture than if I just use the pumps on the gallon jugs. I'll try the pumps first. Thank you again!! Em

[@tooljunkie555]

Whats up zac!this was definitely helpful..very informative and interesting too. I have the big box A and B #epoxy messed withbir a couple times..never knew the measurements had to be eeighed in like that.looks like i need to get a digi. Thanks for sharing zac have a good onr man

[@ZacHiggins]

Joe basementwoodworking Epoxy is often times measured by volume. Just make sure you verify how each product is supposed to be measured. Alumilite is definitely by weight though.

[@tooljunkie555]

Zac Higgins ohh,,so they are completely different from one anothr? And here I thought it was just the names that were diffrent.lol thanks zac! |

[@ZacHiggins]

Joe basementwoodworking Yeah it's sometimes a bit confusing from the names or what's on the box. There are generally 3 types of casting resins that most people use, Polyester Resin (often called PR), Polyurethane Resin (what Alumilite is), and Epoxy. Each of them are different chemically, and the measurement ratios are different for each. Alumilite definitely needs to be measured out by weight. PR uses a different type of hardener (Part B), and you just add a few drops of the hardener to the resin. Epoxy often times will be measured by volume. Just depends on the specific product. Always make sure to read the directions, the mix ratios can be different even within the same category of resin but different manufacturers.

[@tooljunkie555]

Zac Higgins no kidding! I wanted to make "the sprinkle cake plate " that peter brown did for a relative that makes cakes and wasnt sure which kind to use. I know some of them can be a bit pricey $$$!

[@t3006711]

sir. how about mix 2 color together in one mold casting. it's need 2 person to mix each one color at the same? second question when put the mix resin in mold inside the air pressure with 60 psi, it's need to leave it in 60psi in pressure pot for 24 hour without release the air? tq

[@ZacHiggins]

+Muhamad Mohd Aziz I mix multiple colors myself, even with the fast setting resins. Easiest way to do it is to mix up all the resin in one cup, dump off a bit once it's mixed up into separate cups, then add the dyes to each individual cup. Should be plenty of time to get them all mixed and poured in the mold. You only have to leave the casting in the pressure pot until the resin has hardened up. For most of the Alumilite products, that's only about an hour or two depending on the resin you are using and the temperature in the shop. Slow setting resins like epoxy or PR will take longer though. Just look for the "demold" time on the product, that will tell you when it should be ready to take out of the pot. One caution though, if the casting is a very small amount of resin, it may take the resin longer to cure/harden.

[@matcina8207]

+Zac Higgins sir. thanks alot. really help me in firstime using resin. great information. thank again sir

[@t3006711]

for how many minute sir if just baked it in the oven.

[@ZacHiggins]

+Muhamad Mohd Aziz That depends on how much moisture is in the wood and how big it is. I usually bake very small things like pine cones and branch pieces overnight, but for larger chunks it could take a week or so. I'll be doing a video soon about drying wood, keep your eyes out for that one :)

[@carladosh806]

Very Helpful Zack, Thanks

[@ZacHiggins]

Glad it was helpful =D

[@devsvids]

Zac, loving this stuff... one thing I'm quite confused about is: I thought Alumilite WAS epoxy resin? I cant seem to get Alumilite in Ireland and I don't have a pressure pot so I use Epoxy with Alumilite powder (which I can get from the UK). The epoxy mixes great and I haven't had any problems but the results for the powder aren't as impressive as I've seen (from you and others!). Is Alumilite something other than epoxy? Could that explain why the powder doesn't pop quite as much? The epoxy I use is crystal clear and very good.

[@ZacHiggins]

Thomas Murphy Thanks Thomas! Alumilite is 'Polyurethane Resin', which is slightly different than epoxy. The main difference is Alumilite is slightly softer and a bit less brittle. Check out this video that explains the differences between the 3 main resins: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poKZZHmhrpqWl5Y As far as the powder is concerned, there really shouldn't be any difference. It's probably has to do with the brand of powder and how much you're using. I'll be doing some videos on coloring resins in the future, so keep an eye out for that. I use dyes as well as powders depending on what effects I'm going for, may be that you're trying to compare oranges with apples.

[@devsvids]

Zac Higgins Yeah I have a suspicion that what I want is more to do with dye than powder and also perhaps the amount of powder I'm adding. I find that it all mixes too much and rather than red and blue swirls I get more of a purple mess :) ... the resin I'm using takes 24 hours to set so probably I need to let it go a bit more gooey in the pot before combining the two colours. I'm definitely ordering dyes when I get home. You American turners dunno how good you have it! :) what with access to all these great products and sites like Chefwarekits and Alumilite, over in Ireland here we sometimes have to make do with what we can get :) :)

[@ZacHiggins]

Thomas Murphy It is nice being able to choose from quite a few products here. I get so many comments from people in the EU, UK, and many other places that can't get many of the supplies that are commonplace here. Someone needs to fill that void! You definitely want to wait before mixing with the slow setting resins. You'll have to experiment with it, but I've heard people who use PR wait a good 15-20 minutes at least before pouring into molds. The good news is it really makes no difference which resin you use, they all produce great looking blanks. I'm looking forward to seeing some of your creations!

[@georgemccombs5070]

Do you leave the air hose connected to the pressure pot to maintain a steady and constant pressure?

[@ZacHiggins]

No, I disconnect it. The only time you'd need to leave it hooked up is if the pot is leaking. It's safer to disconnect it just in case something goes wrong with the regulator

[@georgemccombs5070]

Thanks

[@capcrnch]

Another great video Zac! What are you using for the release on the pvc pipe? I know you mentioned silicone, but is it a spray or? Also, where did you get your caps for the pipe? Thanks!

[@ZacHiggins]

Thanks Rich! I use Stoner urethane mold release spray on my pipes. I get it on Alumilite's website. I found the plugs on eBay. Look for powder coating supplies.

[@capcrnch]

I'm a dumbass, I knew you used Stoner and just totally blanked. I'll check ebay for the caps. I'm about done with painters tape! So almost a year later, are you still happy with the clear pipe?

[@ZacHiggins]

Haha, no worries :-) Yeah I won't even use the white pipes any more. I use clear for everything, I really like the improved visibility.

[@sniperwolfjs]

Hey Zac can you help me in choosing a good scale for alumilite measurements. Thanks Joe Stanton

[@ZacHiggins]

I sure can! I use one that is accurate to 0.1 grams, and I have a link to where I got it on my "Tools I Use" page on my website: nvwoodwerks.com/tools/

[@sniperwolfjs]

Zac Higgins Oh man you are awesome. I got my scale from Amazon.com today and ready to try it out on some alumilite. Thanks Joe Stanton

[@ZacHiggins]

Sweet!! Glad I could help out with the scale. Let the fun begin =D

[@megarceneaux8030]

Thanks again! Off to get a scale!

[@ZacHiggins]

+Meg Arceneaux :) Glad it was helpful Meg!!

[@larryelliott5470]

It's the little things. Thanks

[@ZacHiggins]

Absolutely =D

[@Lee-qp6gf]

But they say "by weight".

[@ZacHiggins]

Lee Waterman Malcolm's explanation is spot on. Some of the other resins only require measuring by volume though.

[@SpeedysWoodshop]

Great info as always!!!

[@ZacHiggins]

Speedy's Woodshop Thanks Tim!!

[@randjooe6262]

Dude....Why don't you wear your t-shirt backwards? Your hat in backwards, You're not following suit

[@rroe5718]

Hi Zac, VERY informative video and certainly was of the greatest help to me. Watched it 3 times and then took the plunge into my first Alumilite casting of a pen blank. Used the Silicone molds by Fred and they were the greatest also. I did have one little glitch that maybe you can comment to me on. I did have some really large air bubbles that did not come out of the castings. I used a Pressure Pot and maintained 50 psi pressure for 2 hours before releasing pressure and taking the molds out. I left the castings in the molds for an additional 12 hours to further cure before removing from the molds. Any ideas why I might still be having air bubbles?? Thanks

[@ZacHiggins]

That's great to hear! Glad the video was helpful too. Were you casting tube-in blanks with clear resin or just regular square ones? I've noticed that bubbles can get trapped under the tube sometimes with the horizontal tube-in molds. Not sure why the pressure doesn't collapse them though. I usually try to tap the molds a bit and free any air bubbles that are under the tube before putting it in the pressure pot.

[@rroe5718]

Yes, tube in. Probably definitely the problem with bubbles hiding underneath. Also making a watch part pen and with all the little gears etc. they also could be trapping in bubbles underneath the tubes. Wish Alumilite would make a slower curing clear resin. I would then use my vacuum chamber instead of the pressure pot.

[@ZacHiggins]

They have a 12 minute open time Clear now. Not a lot of time I know, but I find that if you stir it slowly, you don't introduce too many bubbles in it in the cup. Let it sit in the cup for a couple minutes after mixing to let some of the bubbles escape, then pour it in the mold carefully, slowly, and in a thin drip. Should help eliminate most if not all the bubbles for you. Oh, and I also tap the mold a bit, angling it to help let any bubbles that are trapped under the tube wiggle free.

[@IBDaddyO]

Good video Zach. I am a PR guy, but found the video interesting. Mark@ Pen Tactix

[@ZacHiggins]

IBDaddyO Thanks Mark! I don't have much experience with PR, is it a good technique to scrape the cup well when mixing PR?

[@markseymour9224]

Yeah Zach it's a good idea with PR to scrape the sides as well, and get a good mix. I also will take a bunch of the popsicle sticks and I will cut the ends flat to ensure I can scrape the bottom.

[@chartle1]

***** I also do this but with the tongue depressors I use. But I also round one side. I use a candle warmer and when you place it on the plate the heat really moves the bubble to the surface. I use the rounded side to scoop out the bubbles. I point the other end to scoop out Pearl Ex.

[@shonaoneill5151]

Zac Higgins my scales are super accurate, 0.01 of a gram, also it weighs up to 2kg. But if you want high accuracy and high weight, you need to pay quite a lot of money.....but definitely worth it. Good video buddy