Epoxy resin - casting technique to get rid of air bubbles - no pressure pot needed

[@CasualDIY]

I have made a Series of videos talking about Resin Basics, Resin Tutorial if you want to check it out then here is a link to the first video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHbamHegpL90mKc

[@chriswalters1014]

Casual DIY do you pour it in by 5’s?

[@nicoleknight5801]

Thank you so much.

[@RealSkoolmaster]

Pro Tip: Use a kabob (small Round stick) to do your mixing. Flat, things like popsickle sticks, introduce air despite your mixing action. The resin rolling back in introduces air. A round mix stick will do the same job but introduces MUCH less air. Using heat + round stick+ slow stir + flaming the stream during the pour I have attained crystal clear results (same resin) without a pressure pot.

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, that is a pro tip thanks! Need to get some 😁

[@RealSkoolmaster]

best place, at least in my country, is the grocery store (market?).

[@CasualDIY]

@@natraz823 hi it's a good tip for slow setting epoxy but it needs a hefty investment in the equipment. And usually the time needed to get air bubbles from epoxy in a vacuum chamber is much longer. Some epoxys can't be put in the vaccum chamber either as it will impact on the chemical reaction in the epoxy, so it's worth checking the full information booklet on the epoxy you have👍

[@sergioagodoy8357]

Do not use wood stick because tend to absorb part of the component and the rough surtace retain part of them too. Use glass or plastics stirrers

[@CasualDIY]

@@sergioagodoy8357 that's a good tip, thanks👍

[@kokeskokeskokes]

My two cents: Mix the two components inside a plastic bag having all the air squeezed out the top prior to mixing. You will not get a single bubble. Just punch a hole in the bag when you are sick of kneeding and gently push the stream of epoxy wherever you want it to land. No bubbles, no clean up, no sweat.

[@CasualDIY]

Not seen that one before, got me intrigued🤔

[@kokeskokeskokes]

@@CasualDIY I guess I have done too much epoxy mixing in my project. All were small batches > 1 g apiece so using cups became quickly uneconomical because of left overs. I started cutting plastic bags into squares intended as lining and it evolved from there.

[@CasualDIY]

@@kokeskokeskokes very cool idea mate

[@perseus6852]

I'm gonna try your method and see how it goes. Seems like homemade vacuum chamber! I'm working with large molds and the torch is not enough to burst the bottom bubbles.

[@kokeskokeskokes]

@@perseus6852 Awesome.

[@marcelthomassen3152]

Thank you for posting your video, I make batches of around 8 - 10 gram and I basically do the same as you (trial C) but I do another step after that. I use a syringe (without needle) to suck up the epoxy and poor it onto my products. By doing that it is as if the remaining bubbles go to the top of the syringe, you can see them very well and I just stop the syringe when the bubbles come close to the bottom. Then I suck up again more epoxy. The second advantage is, that you can dose very accurately and bring the epoxy at the place you want it to be. I clean the syringe afterwards with acetone, it works really well.

[@CasualDIY]

Good tip thanks for sharing I may check that out 😁👍

[@marcelthomassen3152]

@@CasualDIY Maybe I should explain better. When I suck up the epoxy in the syringe, there are no visible air bubbles in the epoxy, but it is as when the epoxy is sucked through the small syringe opening that creates some “tension” in the epoxy and that activates the tiny (invisible) air bubbles to “clump” together to become a bigger visible bubble that stays in the top of the syringe, especially when the epoxy is “pre-heated” so it is thinner.

[@mercedesmarton3768]

For those who buys resin in a larger quantity (gallon) I recommend you to get from the dollar store condiment bottles. Either the colored ones (red and yellow) or the clear bottles. Way easier to control how much you pour when measuring. Also if you use small amount at the time (like making jewelry and such) get clear medicine cups. They are clear, and they are perfect for measuring. Whatever is left on the bottom after use easily pops out the cup and you can reuse them over and over.

[@kimwatchesstuff]

My Amazing clear cast doesnt come in bottles like this for the same size and makes a mess trying to pour. Any idea where to get just these bottles?

[@wickedwinglings]

I use clear condiment bottles for ketchup and mustard. They are squeeze bottles with small tips, which makes it much easier to pour.

[@zygmuntkuzminski8312]

I have no experience with epoxy, I making tables and benches so epoxy will fix cracks on my wood, Yours video show me is not so easy for beginners like me.Thank You

[@CasualDIY]

The topic of resin is vast and the best way to learn is to experiment 👍

[@GondozaSulo]

I use slow epoxy, takes 72 hours to cure but after a few mins in hot water premix, and 30-40 mins in a water bath after, I get super good results. Also try platic or metal to stir, i find dry wood releases air sometimes.

[@timbarnett3898]

What 30-40 min. temperature of water do you prefer? Or different temps for different project?

[@GondozaSulo]

I dont measure the temp, usually if i can manage the water on my hands its hot enough, all projects are treated the same way.

[@timbarnett3898]

@@GondozaSulo Thanks, I think this is best info on epoxy! Thanks, I can even see wood stir sticks outgassing as stirred, very cool, I can see that!

[@runnymedecrafts2018]

What's best way to remove micro bubbles in the resin. I'm still new to this and getting micro bubbles in finished items.

[@CasualDIY]

The best way is to use a Resin pressure pot

[@resinAce]

That was a great experiment! With Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast resin I find it pays to try and not introduce any bubbles to begin with, by using a thinner mixing stick (bamboo skewers cut in half), don't stir too fast, and keep the stirrer in contact with the bottom of the mixing vessel. I am so good at it now I can mix a shot glass without a single bubble :D

[@CasualDIY]

Great tip thank you. I actually got some toothpicks that should be just fine?

[@resinAce]

Sure, for mixing a shot glass they should work a treat :)

[@CasualDIY]

@@resinAce Thank you, really appreciate your comment and tip :)

[@nikieart157]

nice tip ty

[@harmony331000]

resinAce : resinace is the man so take his opinion to heart for sure!

[@221b-Maker-Street]

An extra tip from a newbie here - ditch the wooden lolly stick for stirring, which is essentially a series of tall straws fused together - ie full of air. *Mix with a silicone stick instead.*

[@CasualDIY]

You can and its a great tip. However I have not noticed any difference when using a wooden lolly stick.

[@JFirn86Q]

A word of caution, make sure you use a slow setting epoxy. Heat will exponentially increase the reaction velocity, so be careful heating it once mixed. The pot life on the datasheet will be half that time or less depending on how much heat you expose it to, which as it sets will make it more difficult to pour - introducing more air bubbles, etc.

[@rothery2]

Might want to redo this and add a pour to it, since most people mix in one container then pour into another. Using a High thin pour helps get rid of many of the bubbles introduced by mixing.

[@MileyonDisney]

Great demonstration. I use a pressure pot for resin, and I just ordered a vacuum chamber for silicone. Hobbies ain't cheap - might as well go for it.

[@CasualDIY]

Yes got the same set up and sure its not cheap unfortunately. But hey I always say you could just blow through that money. But in our case its an investment 👍

[@timsmith894]

Would using some kind of vibration plate/ on a very low setting bring the bubble's to the top ,then pop them with heat, just my thoughts 🙂

[@CasualDIY]

Already tested that with mediocre results

[@henrychan720]

Blowing it with a hairdryer while mixing helps a lot too.

[@maxmedia6524]

I work in the dental field, and it is ideal for us to use a vibrating plaque to remove air bubbles when casting rock or plaster.

[@pixxistixstones6840]

I use Amazing Clear Cast Resin. I simply throw both of the sealed bottles in a sink full of really hot tap water for about 10 minutes, then dry the bottles (a must do, so a stray drip of water doesn't fall into the resin), then mix & pour as usual. I'm also careful not to mix the resin too quickly so I won't be so apt to introduce air into the resin. I rarely have bubbles but if I do, I quickly hit them with a heat gun.

[@CasualDIY]

Very good thorough process mate👍

[@SilverGhxst]

I’m doing research because I want to make a set of d&d dice for my fiancé, but I don’t want to spend hundreds to get a pressure pot... I’m hoping I can get a decently clear pour because major air bubbles will throw off the dice balance. Great video for new beginners to follow along to. Hopefully when I pour them they come out clear

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you, I hope they will come out great for you👍

[@LypexGamer]

For something that small I'd recommend polyester resin. A bit cheaper and smells a lot funkier, however I've found that even with vigorous mixing no bubbles appear. Polyester resin also polishes up to a much more glass like finish over epoxy.

[@raymonvanbrakel5962]

My gf is doing a lot with resin, i Also help out so now and then. When we use 2 compound resin, we look for a long curing time, the one we have is fully cured after 5 days ( 48 hours curing time for light handeling) We found out that the slow curing time reduces the amount of bubbles, but i do still reccomand what this video said to increase the no bubble quality if you don't want to use vacuüm

[@Diggers_daughter]

Alumilate has a page that could definitely help. Amazing clear cast is a great option and you can get 20% off right now June 2020 using code Amazingsavings

[@mercedesmarton3768]

@@LypexGamer one thing about polyester resin is that it is very sensitive to moisture while curing. I failed a lot because the air was too humid. It bubbles like crazy.

[@mookzmom]

this is much appreciated by me. Just getting into resins and trying to make decisons on what expensive gear I actually need. Thank you!

[@CasualDIY]

In a month time I will have a full tutorial resin basics, about 9 episodes so there's a lot of cool content coming👍

[@mookzmom]

@@CasualDIY Thanks! I've subscribed so I won't miss it!

[@CasualDIY]

@@mookzmom welcome to my small community 👍

[@shantih73]

By far the best video I’ve seen regarding epoxy resin and eliminating bubbles!!! I’m so excited to try again!

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you kindly, I'm glad you liked it 👍

[@07slowbalt]

Squeeze the air out of your epoxy bottles before you flip them. That way air doesn't mix inside the container before you even start the pore. I find poring onto the popsicle stick releases the bubbles during mixing. Always remembering to pore and mix them slowly. I always use heat as well even if I cheat a step. I never tried warming my epoxy. Good tip I'll give it a try.

[@whiterabbit75]

Would using vibrations help with the process at all? Like, hold a vibrator to the side of the cup for a few minutes, maybe?

[@CasualDIY]

One of my friends done an experiment like that, he had a vibrating base plate. The difference was negligible.

[@whiterabbit75]

@@CasualDIY Ah. Maybe combine the vibrating plate with heat? And what about using a candle warmer?

[@CasualDIY]

@@whiterabbit75 that would be too much heat. It just needs warm water. Remember the more heat you introduce to mixed resin the quicker and less predicted the process will become.

[@whiterabbit75]

@@CasualDIY Gotcha. Thanks for the info.

[@anitaschilder]

Your part A is quite thick. When that happens to me, due to environment temperature, I put the whole bottle in hot water. This way it's much easier to get the right amount out of the bottle, it mixes a lot easier and it reduces bubbles. Another thing you can do is use a mug or candle warmer. It's like a heated coaster. After mixing put your cup with the mixed resin on the warmer and leave for about 10 minutes. All bubbles will be gone. I wouldn't use the kitchen lighter until after you have poured your resin in the mould you want to use and after you have added any fillers you want to use like glitter, shells, flowers, etc. Usually you'll get some bubbles after adding these, especially flowers and shells will do that. So it's best to use the lighter at the very end before you leave it to set. I usually check again after half an hour to see if more bubbles have come up (again, you'll see this often when you use flowers and shells). If you see any bubbles after half an hour, use the lighter again but hold it a bit longer on the area with the bubbles as it will soften the resin which has started to get thick by that time. When you do that, you won't be left with a crater where the bubble was but the resin will level again. Another thing you can do is when you use a mould with sharp edges and corners, use a toothpick and glide it along the bottom edge in the resin. Often bubbles will sit in corners or edges and they're not always easy to see. You'll only notice it when you take your finished project out if the mould; you'll have some sharp edges holes in the corner and edges and sanding is the only way to get rid of it then.

[@nicoleknight5801]

Does it have to be a wooden stir stick or will the bubbles cling to metal?

[@CasualDIY]

Not sure about metal but I think anything will do. Plastic stirers would be better as they will not introduce any air bubbles themselves like the wooden stick

[@marcelthomassen3152]

@@CasualDIY I just re-use the wooden sticks, they will be impregnated after using them the first time.

[@CasualDIY]

@@marcelthomassen3152 yes I do that as well😁👍

[@daddyfixit5188]

Hi how long does resin take to set pls I have got arc epoxy thanks 👍

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, every resin is different and it depends on conditions like ambient temperature, how much resin you using in your casting. You will find this information on the data sheet that should come with your resin

[@lulabahta]

can we use a household vacume cleaner intake to draw a vacume?

[@CasualDIY]

Not to that extent that's needed.

[@sonuverma2796]

Sir can I use method D ,and after D method can I use vaccum resin for more better result.

[@CasualDIY]

It won't make much difference and you may run out of time and your resin will harden during the process. Unless you got resin with very long open time let's say 1h+ then you can try it but I don't think you will see much better results. I would suggest a pressure pot for best results.

[@sonuverma2796]

@@CasualDIY sir your mean vaccum pump best option for remove bubbles instead option D method.

[@CasualDIY]

@@sonuverma2796 no, pressure pot. Vacuum Chamber totally different thing, check out my other videos. Got a comparison of both 👍

[@Helmet_Tester]

Thank you for using a scale. I watch so many people eye it. That's fine for someone that's been mixing a product for years, but for teaching first timers this is the way to do it. Cheers

[@CasualDIY]

Just one thing to mention there are two types of resin when it comes to mix in ratios. One is mixed by weight and the other by volume. Always check which one you got👍

[@fillerbunnyninjashark271]

1:1 mixes you really don't need to use a scale...

[@IcYsTaR8]

A lot of my family has Polish accents but I live in the US, so they sound different than your UK Polish accent! Thanks for the video, though. I've been using epoxy for a while but have been having problems with bubbles more frequently now that I'm expanding to larger and denser pieces. Dzięki!

[@CasualDIY]

Hehe yes I think the accent depends on where you live and them you pick up the little language nuances that are specific to that area. If it helps I just made another video about some resin basics kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHbamHegpL90mKc

[@kkcty]

It's definitely different to UK Polish accents I hear in the South of England too, you seem to have picked up a lot of Midlands!

[@CasualDIY]

@@kkcty hehe could be 🤣

[@ericbullard459]

Cool, but in what project could you suspend your work in warm water?

[@CasualDIY]

You don't. You leave it there for a while and then transfer it to your mould.

[@ericbullard459]

@@CasualDIY AHHH. I see. Thanks.

[@badralnejaidi4596]

what is the best place with good quality,and reasonable price to buy epoxy resin A and B for making krafts,and table river ? thanx in advance,,Badr.

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, personally I use resin from ResinPro. Fantastic resin plus everything you could think off to do any project. Check out their website resinpro.eu and you can use my discount code to get 10% off. The code is casualdiy

[@tinywarhead7037]

Would this work with sorta clear?, it's a silicone for making molds, I got a ton if bubbles in my mold

[@CasualDIY]

Not sure not used it.

[@receipts5874]

Great video! I love how you tested out several different methods and saw the project all the way through to hardening.

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you very much, glad you liked it 😁👍

[@k.r.9606]

I warm my resin before hand and work under a heater vent, I pour in small layers and take bubbles out with a lighter ad whatever I need to then pour again popping bubbles as I go. I check it every 5 minutes for about 30 minutes to pop more bubbles and make sure nothing moves. I use a .9mm pencil lead to shift things back (Cleans easy). I also use small plastic stir sticks and stir each resin part separate for a minute before adding them together.( The bottle says too)

[@CasualDIY]

That sounds like a bubble free process very demanding tho

[@robira1313]

How do you clean pencil lead out of uncured epoxy?

[@k.r.9606]

@@robira1313 I've never had it leave any lead behind or had it make marks. So I'm not sure, maybe use a tooth pick?

[@shrimpy_nazeem]

Will the hot water method work if I put dye into the mix?

[@CasualDIY]

Yes it will👍

[@shrimpy_nazeem]

Casual DIY thank you!

[@shrimpy_nazeem]

Casual DIY another question. I’m using pipettes to put my resin into my dice molds. What can I do to further minimize bubbles in the resin if I do the pipettes

[@shrimpy_nazeem]

Casual DIY also I’m planning on mixing gold foil

[@CasualDIY]

@@shrimpy_nazeem take your time, the less air bubbles you will introduce during this process the better. But ultimately the best results can be achieved with a pressure pot.

[@lindseysturkie2205]

For my projects ill keep using my pressure pot. Thanks

[@NubianLockedPrincess]

Thank you, thank you, Thank you! Your “D” method worked like a charm! I’am new to epoxy. My first tumbler had so many small bubbles! My next two tumblers are bubble free!

[@CasualDIY]

Your welcome, glad I was able to help 👍

[@GaryYoung-eq1ph]

Would painting ur wooden sticks help any?

[@CasualDIY]

@GaryYoung-eq1ph depends what you will be painting the sticks with

[@theunderratedcreations2270]

Plz recommend me... What type of epoxy do i need to use for making an epoxy lamp.... Casting epoxy is ok or not... Plz help me

[@CasualDIY]

I can imagine it will be a deep casting. I could recomend resin from ResinPro, here is the link resinpro.eu/product/epoxytable-epoxy-resin-for-tables-5-kg/ You can get 10% off your shopping just use my discount code I got with them "casualdiy"

[@theunderratedcreations2270]

@@CasualDIY ohhkk... Thankyou thanks a lot

[@CasualDIY]

No problem

[@mrsrobson7417]

What about using a heat mat instead of a water bath? The moulds themselves could also be sat on the mat?

[@CasualDIY]

Never used anything like that but could be an interesting option.

[@rosiefuller8791]

So I did the hot water thing and a lil bit of water got into the cup. I was worried at first but after a bit of mixing everything looked fine. (I put both parts in the hot water). I mixed the two parts together and carried in pouring it into the moulds. Around 10 mins after I mixed it all together, I noticed that the resin was getting super hot and actually started to burn my hand through the cup and my gloves. I then noticed that it was bubbling maybe even boiling. I went to mix it and it was In this massive hardened clump if resin. I stopped what I was doing and was super confused. 20 mins after I touched this hard boiled mixture and it was completely solid. What happened? Was it the water getting into the resin or because I warmed both parts?

[@CasualDIY]

Never put water to resin. Secondly please read the technical sheet that comes with your resin. You need to info on mixing ratios( by weight or volume) what is the curing time, what depth you can pour at one time. Then if you follow every thing to the dot you should not have any issues. I recomend you watch my other videos on Basics of resin and how to mix resin 👍

[@rosiefuller8791]

Casual DIY Thankyou very much

[@missamedulla91]

​@@rosiefuller8791 you mixed too much resin up at once. it got hot and sped up its reaction so it overheated itself. utilize thin pours one at a time on top of one another. that's your best bet for the type of resin you used. if you are totally determined to pour all at once, buy another kind of resin. and still be prepared to work super fast. super duper fast.

[@tinkmarshino]

Tom.. you keep your garage at in house temps? even at night? Well not bad.. but how would you do a large batch? say for a table or display cube? a lot of work, a lot of room.. vacuum or pressure I think is still better for a larger job.. This was impressive never the less and I think you are on to something.. keep experimenting and refining the processes.. thanks for the share, carry on, be safe and have fun..

[@CasualDIY]

Thanks👍 I think the resins for "river tables" and large pours are design to self de-gas but still certain conditions need to be kept. With resin it's a must to keep good ambient temperature unfortunately👍

[@tinkmarshino]

@@CasualDIY Well I thank you for your information.. every bit of knowledge helps.. Carry on my friend..

[@dragan3290]

Hi can you please tell me how to thin out gorilla glue epoxy clear resin as it's very thick! If I can thin out ? Like a self levelling epoxy resin? Cheers from Australia 🙂. Any reply appreciated 👍.

[@CasualDIY]

You always mix resin as per ratios on the technical sheet. If you don't keep to the correct amounts of part a and b it will not cure correctly. If you need the resin to be thinner you need to look for a resin that after mixing is thinner.

[@karolprzybyek1050]

Cześć. Cały czas mam pianę w pompie w kubku. Pieni się przez 20 minut i tak są bąbelki. Co robić. Za dla y silnik ? 1 poziomowa pompa z Amazon

[@CasualDIY]

Kupić garnek cisinieniowy bym polecał. Pompa vacuum nie jest najlepsza metodą do pozbywania się bombelkow. W najbliższy piątek wydaje film vacuum chamber vs pressure chamber. Polecam obejrzeć. Jeśli odsysasz powietrze to może to i godzinę zająć. Zależy jaka ilość żywicy, jaki typ żywicy itd.

[@karolprzybyek1050]

Jakie polecasz żywice ,,bez bąbelków,,?

[@CasualDIY]

@@karolprzybyek1050 takich to nie ma😉 każda zywica z długim czasem pracy będzie dawała lepsze szanse odpowietrzenia. Ja juz od kilku lat używam produktów z ResinPro. Polecam, www.resinpro.eu mam też kod na 10% zniżki "casualdiy" Maja dużo różnych żywic, ja przeważnie używam tą do 2cm, stosunek mieszania wagowy 100 do 60. Czas pracy bodajże ponad godzina.

[@radhikagrover2446]

Hey! I saw that in test D uh used blow torch for removing air bubbles....Can we use heat gun for the same ? Wont it burn the plastic?

[@CasualDIY]

With the heat gun or blow torch you have to be very careful not to burn the container or resin. You only need a second of heat to go over the resin to pop the air bubbles, it comes down to practice and checking what works for you I guess👍

[@thetresureofdragonsbis6065]

after you pour your mixed resin into a mold put it over a lamp with a wire cookie sheet(cookie cooler?) over the light bulb, the light must be facing up or it won't work, this makes the resin set faster and thinner as it sets so you have even fewer bubbles, this works really well unless you are using a closed mold, then the bubbles get stuck at the top and it makes swiss cheese-like plastic, I've never tried taking the bubbles out before i pour it in a mold, i let you know if its still cheese

[@CasualDIY]

Interesting technique 👍

[@hmingthanacolney2974]

Does the heating mix the epoxy and the hardener on their own?

[@CasualDIY]

No you always have to mix part A and part B as best as you can. Check out my Tutorial about resin. There one video on how to mix resin

[@theresabraddock9310]

ive never done this before but I was wondering if you put the stick in first while you pour your mixtures inside... Im thinking this because I think introducing the stick afterwards is actually what is adding the air.

[@spiritwings4592]

Wood anything makes air bubbles

[@jamesking8105]

Great video. I think if you find a longer curing resin the air bubbles will have more time to escape. You can use a small heat gun to warm up the mix after both a and b are mixed together. The resin should be almost water like, as there is no need to use a torch. You are dealing with vapors toxins and flammable materials please read the msds before using heat on epoxy... Wear a mask use ventilation and keep the epoxy away from sources of heat.

[@CasualDIY]

All good points👍

[@aracelivalencia7282]

How long do you stir D?

[@CasualDIY]

Minimum 3 minutes always. Or until is fully mixed

[@badralnejaidi4596]

My good friend Thomas,i want to ask you pls,i used many types of resins and hardeners to make vases with plastic flowers but it never get hard like arock,infact it become after few days soft as clay,what is my mistake ?.

[@CasualDIY]

Could be many things. Check out my video series about resin. The first video about what resin to choose and how to mix resin. Most of the basics and things you need to consider when choosing resin and working with resin is there. Hope it will help answer your questions.

[@badralnejaidi4596]

well friend Thomas I confess that I was mixing resin A with B in randome way but after seeing your video now many mistakes I found that I made,and I shall avoid,thanx buddy,you are super,,Badr.

[@CasualDIY]

Glad that my videos were some help to you. All the best and stay safe 👍

[@richardslee8056]

Help! I heat the resin in a water bath first and use hardener at 1%-1.5% and stir with a round stick. I don’t have a lot of bubbles But find a bubble film attached to either the plastic or wood I’m incasing in the resin.

[@CasualDIY]

With wood the cause of that may be that is not dry enough and moisture is the cause of that.

[@RM-ro1zs]

I do this and the bubbles are out but then when I pour into the mold they get bubbles at the bottom of the mold ( micro bubbles) how can I fix that.

[@CasualDIY]

Hmm with carefull pouring there should be no air bubbles introduced. Unfortunately the best way to have zero air bubbles in casting is a pressure pot.

[@RM-ro1zs]

Got it. Alright I will try to pour carefully. Thank you for your reply

[@dumbcat]

i've been trying to make relatively thin parts with Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast resin but the parts never get hard. they cure. they are not sticky, but they do not harden completely. i was told to try heat curing which i did try. this helped somewhat, but the results have still been rather disappointing. if anyone has any suggestions or if this is simply a limitation of the material please let me know. thanks

[@CasualDIY]

Depending how thin we are talking about. If its 1 - 3mm thick then any material wont be super stiff, especially plasticky types of materials. If the thickness is more than that then there may be a problem with the resin itself - out of date, you could be mixing wrong proportions, both parts A and B are not mixed correctly, the humidity could be too big, ambient temperature too low etc. There could be a lot of factors that may affect the end result.

[@AC-pf1ne]

It doesn’t sound like You have any kind of respirator on.. do you use protection with this brand?

[@CasualDIY]

In theory you should use respirator at all times using any resins. It's my choice not to do so. I tend to use products that are high quality not mega toxic and don't produce massive amounts of fumes or any smell in that matter. But I would not recommend not wearing a respirator to anyone when working with resin.

[@artmoreart]

If one pours the epoxy into a silicone mold how does heat up the epoxy with warm water? The silicone acts as an insulator keeping the heat away from the epoxy. Using the “flamethrower” is the easiest way to remove bubbles...although not perfect.

[@CasualDIY]

Before you pour it into the mold mix it in a container that you can put in warm water and then gently and slowly pour it into the mold. That could work I think.

[@eclipsestorm1975]

Doesn't warming the resin mess with the cure time?

[@CasualDIY]

The resin I use got about 40 minutes work time and I'm have not noticed any difference. Remember you you are only using hot tap water not boil8mg water or anything like that.

[@k.r.9606]

Most cure faster when warmer.

[@CuriousCrafter]

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks so much. This will help me a lot with my current project.

[@CasualDIY]

I'm glad that my video was some help👍

[@pred178]

What is the melting point of the resin after it hardened?

[@CasualDIY]

Sorry not sure what you mean?

[@lilbohbeat5785]

Casual DIY I believe they mean ‘At which temperature will cured resin begin to melt’ That’s a good question, though... As far as I know, different types and brands will have different heat tolerances. If I’m not mistaken, some types of epoxy are even marketed for their heat resistance, similarly to silicone. Edit: (I googled it. Some varying details from source to source, but this appears standard. Quote from a reliable source) -“While a DIY epoxy kit will commonly only withstand the temperature of up to 150 degrees, there are other epoxies out there that can withstand the extreme heat of up to 600 degrees. These are specially formulated with fillers like quartz and offer abrasion resistance, and high heat curing.”

[@CasualDIY]

@@lilbohbeat5785 I thought he ment that but why? Anyway thank you for looking into this 👍 Although I would recomend to anyone to use epoxy as a fire resistant material. It's like plastic when it's cured and when under external heat it will burn and I can imagine it would generate toxic fumes. So that kind of information needs to be provided directly from the manufacturer of epoxy to avoid any confusion and potential health hazards.

[@lilbohbeat5785]

Casual DIY Oh, yes of course you’re right... I wouldn’t assume that anyone would seek out epoxy in search of a material with x amount heat resistance, but I probably should be more careful with assumptions like that, now that you mention this point... I know this is something often asked/discussed online when it comes to certain specific applications, (tabletops/countertops definitely come to mind) where epoxy is/has been typically/often used; in these cases it can be helpful to have some idea of the way our countertop, say, will react to whichever levels of whichever different wearing and damaging situations, like a hot plate or pot of boiling water.

[@CasualDIY]

@@lilbohbeat5785 thats true about the resistance of epoxy and to be honest I'm still trying to find that out for resins I use... no one has got a clear answer I think I will have to make some testing myself

[@serkandemirhanofficial]

I was looking for how to DIY pressure pot and this video came up as suggestion.......... Well it's my lucky day :)

[@CasualDIY]

I hope it will help you in your project👍

[@adminsm6155]

will a vibrating platform work in removing air bubbles?

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, to be honest I'm not sure never used anything like that. In theory it should as it would help the bubbles to escape.

[@adminsm6155]

@@CasualDIY ok..may be i'll try and let you know of the result...

[@CasualDIY]

@@adminsm6155 cool thanks :)

[@robertcrittenden497]

Oh no. Makes it worse. Also I tried a air brush paint mixer. Alot of bubbles. The process using heat is good way. Pour high in a corner. And make a small but steady stream. Another trick is dusting the mold lightly with baby powder. Helps the epoxy fill into cracks and voids. I am needing the clearest i can produce. Some hoping tinted. So best way is vacuum pot. Im fixing to order a kit off ebay.

[@CasualDIY]

@@robertcrittenden497 I started to think bit more serious about my epoxy projects and business ideas and got a pressure pot from Santa:)

[@kimwatchesstuff]

Ive done things like warming up the resin and heating up or torching after pouring... Yet I still get micro bubbles in my pieces.

[@CasualDIY]

The ultimate best way to get rid of 100% of air bubbles is a pressure pot.

[@pac-familyanna8819]

Very well done, thanks I'll try immediately, I didn't understand a passage from experiment D, didn't you mix the two components?

[@CasualDIY]

Same like C 👍

[@himikoichikawa6893]

for anyone doing the water one do not try using hot water from a thermos i used it it worked fine for my first cast i did but my second one it cured within 10 min or nearly cured i was shocked. btw first time making it so yea >.> hope it helps

[@timrockman7]

A couple tips for you to master this craft, Mr. DIY: 29 C is better for your ambient shop temp. I heat my epoxy work room studio, and soak my gallon container epoxies in hot water for whatever time it takes to make them fluid and workable. 85 F is ideal. For my epoxies that works out fine and if it is warmer than that, I need to work quickly because they generate heat on mixing and harden fast. Wood will soak up the resin because wood is porous and has air in it, and guess what comes out? billions of tiny fogging Bubbles. Fail! Seal your tongue suppressor pine stir sticks with acrylics. Just paint them a couple times. No more tiny bubbles. They can be used many times over.

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you that's some awsome tips👍

[@timrockman7]

You can use scales. I do all the time. Here is how. This is to be done with all the different brands of resins used. Make precise identical marks on the outsides of two identical polyethylene cups. There called 'portion cups'. You can go with larger cups if you want even more precision. Put the Resin marked cup on your scales and tare, or zero the scales. Your scales will ignore the weight of the cups and then measure only the resin by grams to a tenth that you will carefully fill to the mark, and write the measurement, like 12.5 Grams. This is your Holy Guide Number, and you must record and inscribe it everywhere. So now you did this with both your resin and hardener you have two numbers like R-12.5 Hdnr- 11. Pour them into your mixing cup and do your resin job. Later if you want to do a smaller project with about half of that last batch. Divide 12.5 and 11 by 2. Whip out your calculator. Or tell Siri to figure it out for you ;-) If you want to do 50 countertops of a huge bar or restaurant with that resin using huge amounts of resin, just mix 12.5 Gallons with 11 gallons of hardner. It's that easy and so much fun. Mor later.

[@CasualDIY]

@@timrockman7 thanks for that I was actually looking for that information 😁 your explanation is perfect thanks 👍

[@drincmusic2769]

This entire time I've been trying to figure out how to not have air bubbles in the epoxy for my special project when I should have thought that that really doesn't matter as long as there's no fractures in it.

[@CasualDIY]

Attention please! Thanks to this awesome community, mainly Pam from Highlandboxes ( check out her awesome channel here -kzbin.info ) it came to light that I was using incorrect proportions when mixing my epoxy. On my Epoxy it actually says it's 1:1 volume ratio - hence you can't use scales! Just use two containers with the same amount of part A and part B. There are also epoxies that have 1:1 weight ratio so please read the description of your epoxy carefully so you don't make the same mistake as I did! Pam thank you again for pointing this out!

[@Chris_Wolfgram]

I only caught this, because I'm new to this, and made the same mistake myself on my first little trial. It still worked okay, as a I guess a touch more hardener is okay, while a touch less probably would not be. Anyway, you can still mix epoxies by weight, you just need to know the specific densities and calculate accordingly. Epoxy is about 15% heavier than hardener, by volume.

[@minimarket8567]

You can and should use a scale. Weigh the A and B bottles fresh out of the box and use that to determine the ratio. For Alumilite I multiply the A weight by .8 and it cures without fail.

[@timrockman7]

I most often used one ounce batches that were specified to be 1:1 by Volume and I would very carefully measure out the hardener and resin by eye. Then I weighed them precisely and determined the ratio to mix them in grams...To the nearest second digit on my scales. Works beautifully and you can do some math to figure out larger and smaller batches. You can use scales conveniently if you know how many grams of hardener to use with X grams of resin.

[@sergioagodoy8357]

One thing that has to be considered when using by volume o by weight, is that always one of the component is more viscous than the other, so when transferring one onto the other you always will have remaining part of that component in the vase. The best system is by weight where you weigh one component, tare of the scale and add the second component carefully and you will have always the correct proportion.

[@fennec4140]

Much better result, and saved a couple of 100€ not having to buy a vacuum. Thanks a lot man...

[@BlackCat_2]

I use a warm water bath for the bottles before mixing especially if my house isn't that warm. I like my temps around 65F but resin loves 70F and higher. :P Torching is also one of my favorite things. It's fun. - Heidi

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, yes I do warm the bottles now as well as it's winter and it's difficult to keep that sweet spot with the temperature:)

[@BlackCat_2]

@@CasualDIY Might want to find a torch with a pinpoint cone shaped flame. :) I finally did at my local store. They are the same size as the other torches but the cone flame works so much better for getting in there. Only drawback I found is they are not able to be refilled but that is okay because the pretty blue flame is so awesome and it works so much better. :)

[@CasualDIY]

@@BlackCat_2 hmm that could be something worth checking out as well just need to be careful no to burn the epoxy ;)

[@BlackCat_2]

@@CasualDIY It should be fine. :) They are the same size as the other torches and sold in the same area of my stores. Just a different fuel and flame. :) Sometimes looking at the package can show you what kind of flame. I just bought four different ones and found the one with the right flame. :) I save the others for lighting my propane heating system in winter.

[@CasualDIY]

@@BlackCat_2 need to have a look for those then, thanks :)

[@dotto6974]

Just wondering if this makes an affect if I'm going to pour into mold after?

[@CasualDIY]

Yes it will, I if pour carefully it should give you better results

[@meonly5335]

Thank you so much for this video. Great tips. I have been so frustrated with my results this far. I will try these tips today.

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you, hope it will work for you well👍

[@wayne-bennett_]

would putting the part A ( full container ) in warm water first, before mixing, help with the release of the bubbles, at mixing point. just a thought ?

[@CasualDIY]

Yes it would. I do that in the winter months 👍

[@wayne-bennett_]

@@CasualDIY thank you for that. i am looking at painting my bathroom floor, sprinkling on some sparkle, let it dry. then put some clear epoxy on to give it a nice finish. how would you recomment such a task, without bubles forming, and would i get bubbles in such a thin layer

[@CasualDIY]

@@wayne-bennett_ first of all that's gonna cost a fortune I would love to see the end result tho👍 you need to buy a special epoxy for that, which I haven't worked with yet so apologies but I won't be able to give you more tips at this point.

[@wayne-bennett_]

@@CasualDIY i have not priced anything up yet, but my bathroom is very small in comparison to others, 8x5ft, but then i have pedasstal sink toilet and a bath to go round, so not much left floorspace.

[@ouscrawburry]

I recommend sealing any paint and especially sparkle (glitter?) before pouring resin.. some paints (and even sealants) can have a negative reaction with epoxy, and glitter must be sealed or massive bubbles emerge as resin seeps into it...

[@mattfletchall5550]

That's it! I'm using method "D" from now on! Thank you! 😁

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you for watching

[@nebula674]

It depends on what kind of resin your using. I've tried it but after 5 minutes of room temperature water I had one big lump and had no use for it anymore.

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, yes this will only work on slow setting epoxy. My epoxy got a work8ng time of around 40 minutes.

[@dereksisco4790]

If you had 5 minute work time that'll happen, it's better to get the stuff that takes longer, once it goop's you're done. I learned that the hard way, now I use a timer when working!

[@agent_8167]

Oh bless your soul for making this

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you👍😁

[@youdeetube]

within 10 minutes do the resin goin hardened?

[@CasualDIY]

Depends on what resin you use. Some will go hard after 7 minutes, 15 minutes, 1h or even longer. It all depends what you are using 👍

[@Masters.of.101]

Hi friend this is Harmeet Singh you doing a good job please share with us a cheeper amount to spend to get a great results hope you understand byee

[@lisajarvis3820]

😭😬 can you please help me ~ I’ve just bought “EPOXYPLAST3D A & B” , the problem is that it’s come from Germany 🇩🇪 ~ and has no English on containers ~ not sure how to mix this ~ not sure it it’s one that is equally parts or if part B is drip 💧 only ~ 😬🤷‍♀️ (RATIO: 100:30 AFTER WEIGHT)~ NOT SURE ABOUT THIS 🤷‍♀️

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, please see the link below to Amazon. If that is the resin you got then the mixing ratio is in the description. Hope it helps. amzn.to/2KVyfXD

[@lisajarvis3820]

Casual DIY yes it’s the top one in the slide picture strip ~ so does this mean that I add the same amount of both A & B and stir for 3 minutes? Or have I misunderstood?

[@CasualDIY]

@@lisajarvis3820 what does the text say in the description?

[@sakujo20]

@@lisajarvis3820 i have epoxy plast 3d too. There are two kinds.. one u can pour up to 50mm. Use 100:30 mixing ratio. For example if u have 100 ml of A component mix 30 of B component. If you have x ml of A component mix x*0.3 ml of component B. the other kind can be poured up to 100mm. I dunno the mixing ratio for that.

[@curiousbo]

Thank you! Do these processes, specifically C & D cut into the pot time? My resin is only 20 mins. Thank you!

[@CasualDIY]

Yes it may alter working time. Depending on type of epoxy you are using.

[@fatabari2508]

Sir this is amazing, wish you help me get this product in my country

[@limabravo8782]

Which country

[@bhuzz4428]

Hi thanks for the great video. I'm wondering if I can use pressure pot before mixing both parts together? As I need a fast cure time but longer handling time. What you think?

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, that will not work mate as the air bubbles are mostly introduced during mixing. If both parts are not mixed correctly you may have poor results.

[@darrenpoulton6643]

If you want too extend you handling time, transfer the epoxy in to larger diameter containers. The thinner the epoxy is in the container the longer it will last. Depth in epoxy helps build the heat faster. You can do the reverse of you want to shorten the handling time

[@CasualDIY]

@@darrenpoulton6643 that's a very good tip thank you👍

[@bhuzz4428]

@@darrenpoulton6643 thank you

[@jameshill890511able]

Surely warming up the resin would cause it to cure quicker reducing your pot life? As for resin to harden it goes through an exothermic reaction (heats up) to cure 🤔

[@CasualDIY]

That's correct. But the resin I use has got a 50 minute working time and the temperature from warm water doesn't change that too much. Remember it's only hot tap water not boiling water from the kettle. Epoxy works in much higher temperatures- depending on epoxy as they are all different.

[@alaskanmal]

Nice video and explanation, I am just getting into resin pouring myself, I would be interested in seeing a video of a much bigger mix and you using your trusted method of getting air out, and pouring a project, the very small pour that you showed in those little cups is not really what a good example , just my thought.

[@CasualDIY]

Hi. I'm actually producing a series of videos about some basics about resin. I get what you saying about larger pours the trouble with that is it takes a lot of resin which costs a lot of money. And I just can't afford to just do it for the video and currently I don't have a project that would be that big. But stay tuned it may happen in the future👍

[@Sooz3112]

Very helpful, thanks. Have you tried a UV lamp? I think I've seen others use one. Also, you can get electric Epoxy stirrers/mixers....wonder if they would produce less air bubbles? x

[@CasualDIY]

Hi. Not been using UV epoxy yet but not sure it's any good for deep pours. I think the electric mixers would introduce a lot of air bubbles. Altho I'm thinking of getting a pressure pot... if my budget allows it ;)

[@jeffsmith2085]

interesting tutorial, some great tips for me to try out...just out of curiousity, what accent do you have?.sounds midlands with an eastern european edge.. hard to pinpoint and im usually pretty good with accents

[@CasualDIY]

You actually nailed it. I'm Polish, and my accent is influenced by Leicestershire and Birmingham area 👍

[@jeffsmith2085]

@@CasualDIY wow thanks for the reply.. It seem like an odd thing to ask but I love pinpointing accents. The guy over the road from me has a mix of kiwi and white south african, he was surprised I got his too. Very kind regards Jeff :-)

[@CasualDIY]

@@jeffsmith2085 hehe all the best and stay safe mate.

[@DataCenterExperts]

component A and B in cup B and Cup A ....! confusing, maybe next time you can call the cups 1,2,3 and 4 :)

[@TopFurret]

I managed to find a really tiny classroom grade manual pressure pot for around $50 US. It hasn't arrived yet so I can't evaluate how good it is, but it's called the vac-10 from educational innovations for those wanting to find it.

[@janleia]

THANK YOU! This technic is by far the best! I was very happy with the results, day and night! Thanks for making this video

[@CasualDIY]

I'm happy that my video was helpful:) thank you :)

[@thegodemperorhiram]

what kind of compressor would I need?

[@CasualDIY]

For what mate? It all depends for what?

[@thegodemperorhiram]

@@CasualDIY i need it to cast some urethane pieces, im just not sure of what kind of compressor to get

[@CasualDIY]

@@thegodemperorhiram Not sure I'm afraid.

[@toddharrison2213]

You are very good at explaining things. How about a video on ways to remove bubbles you don't see until after it cures?

[@CasualDIY]

Thank you. I think the best method for that is the pressure pot👍

[@toddharrison2213]

@@CasualDIY I realize that is good for preventing. What about after the resin has cured and you want to salvage it rather than pitch it and start over wasting more resin?

[@jstrndm945]

Is it a glass mixing cup?

[@CasualDIY]

Hi, no it's plastic. I only use plastic containers👍

[@TheDentman22]

I pound on the table to induce vibration to help the air find its way to the top. 3 minute mix /5 minute wait . Then pour

[@CasualDIY]

Yep that could help as well👍

[@TheDentman22]

Hey man, after that post, what would happen if you put the mix into or on an ultrasonic cleaner?

[@CasualDIY]

@@TheDentman22 I heard about that but the results are no where near as good as pressure pot. Better than nothing tho. But you have to use epoxy with long working time.

[@homiedude333]

What about bubbles as a result of pouring or injecting into a mold?

[@CasualDIY]

It all depends on the mold. But when the epoxy is not as thick the air bubbles will come to the top. If the mold is enclosed then the only option would be pressure pot to get the best results.

[@girishprajapati2680]

Have you a formula for making Pvc upvc cpvc solvent cement

[@CasualDIY]

No mate.

[@girishprajapati2680]

@@CasualDIY ok

[@girishprajapati2680]

@@CasualDIY I think you have it

[@TheOldKid]

Either wax the stir stick or use metal to stir. Wood sticks produce bubbles

[@aprildegele1510]

By far, the best trick I use is combining the two parts with silicone (to not introduce micro bubbles from the wood stick, which has air in it), place it on a cheap coffee cup warmer (or you could use a water bath) until the bubbles rise, torch, let settle, torch again and voila! No bubbles. I cast pen blanks and bubbles will cause the blank to blow out when turning. The only caveat is that if you heat too much or for too long, it will start to set faster than the normal open time. That's fine with me because I need the separation between colors, but I still have to work faster than normal when pouring each color if I've left it on the warmer too long. Unfortunately, there used to be a great product called Ice Resin that off-gassed completely no matter how many bubbles it had. Then, it was bought by Ranger and the price went up by at least 30% and they seem to have changed the formula. Bummer. It was the best ever until Ranger got hold of it.

[@CasualDIY]

Nice solid process 👍😁

[@angeloskleisouras4494]

Does this also works in urethane resin or not? only in epoxy?

[@CasualDIY]

I can't see why not. But I would recomend testing this on smaller sample 👍

[@dibblethwaite]

Try glasscast 50 . No bubbles but takes longer to set.

[@CasualDIY]

Yes bought it already. Not used it yet as I'm redoing my workshop at the minute but yes can't wait to give it a go. And Santa brought me a pressure pot as well so lots of fun coming soon ;)

[@timbarnett3898]

I'd be I interested in a wheel centrifuge use instead of pressure pot?