How to mix SPI epoxy (and most any 2k primer)

[@T3glider]

Excellent info and presentation. Most people gloss over these important basics and you are giving us newbies a lot of confidence.

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful!

[@richardpope9985]

I'm about to start using this product. Thanks for the video, and showing us what we can expect to see.

[@marcuswhite1403]

It's good stuff. I've been using it for a year or so

[@toddenglert4815]

Thanks man video helped me out I appreciate your vieo

[@marcuswhite1403]

I need one of those funnels. I always spill some when I get a new gallon or quart setup

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

You can get them at the paint counter of Lowes, etc or Amazon.

[@marcuswhite1403]

@@TheScientistHayFarmer Thanks. Never thought of that

[@borna430]

Great video and thank you. I am about to shoot a floor panel with the SPI epoxy. first time dealing with automotive paint / epoxy. My question is what kind of protection you use when spraying? Also second question. I am planning to spray this in my backyard. my neighbors on each side are about 30 feet away. Will this be an issue as far as the smell of the epoxy? Also third question, can this be rolled on with a roller? I am doing it on the floor pan and how it looks is not an issue thanks

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful. And well done on your primer selection. Protection--at minimum wear a half face respirator with a filter rated for paints/VOCs. Epoxy does not have isocyanates which are chemicals that are extremely toxic to your mucosa and not readily filtered by some masks (unless they're rated for iso's), but isocyanates are in other activated 2k products such as 2k high build primer and clear coat activator. Also good idea to wear eye protection. I also wear nitrile gloves to protect my hands and the surface i'm painting from my hand oils, and to keep my hands clean. The Harbor Freight heavy duty dark blue nitriles work well for this (and I"m a lab nerd so I'm picky about nitrile gloves to begin with). Backyard spraying--at 30 feet they will definitely smell it, but for me personally, I love the smell of epoxy. You should also be careful with possible overspray. If it's a windy day you want to make sure you aren't blowing overspray their way. I don't spray primers in my paint booth and usually just do it in the garage or out in the driveway, and I don't have a problem with overspray on the buildings or even inside so I think you'll be fine, but be aware. I live in the country though on an acreage. I have never rolled it on, I don't see a reason why you can't except sometimes if you get it too heavy in some spots when spraying it will crater. I don't know if this effect will happen when rolling. Since rolling will apply a very heavy coat you will probably want to let it flash a lot longer between coats. And then plan on throwing the roller away, you won't want to attempt to clean it out.

[@borna430]

@@TheScientistHayFarmer Thanks. Actually is more like minimum 100 feet away or little more . Made a mistake by saying 30. so if they are not outside in their backyard then that distance should be ok? thanks for replying back

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

​@@borna430 100% fine, not a problem even if they are outside. If you're rolling and not spraying then it's a complete nonissue to boot.

[@anthonyrochon3907]

Can induction time be increased for paint and clear as well? Is there benefit to increase the induction time with paint and clear?

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

I don’t think so; I would’ve known by now if that were the case. I think the induction for the epoxy is necessary for the specific solid used for it.

[@zanaga1901]

I used epoxy primer sealer mixed with speciality reducer, epoxy primer 2k sealer and activator and instead of the sealer coming out grey it came out clear. I guess because put the reducer in.

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

I’m not sure I follow. You wanted to make a reduced epoxy sealer so you used SPI epoxy (or another brand), activator (the correct activator?), and “specialty reducer?” What is specialty reducer? You should be using a urethane reducer to reduce this epoxy. I always use a slow reducer.

[@mindybrown434]

Me Mindy here

[@LILGIBBYPRR-ESR]

Have you sprayed it unreduced

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

I never use reducer.

[@deankay4434]

Some, perhaps with few tip sizes or one gun use a “Urethane” grade reducer at 5% - 10%. The main reason is this is your base and epoxy sealer. With bare metal, properly cleaned, sanded w/80 grit, seals from humidity and rain or washing if heaven forbid you have other things to do. If this looks dry or thin, start with adjusting air pressure at the gun. Most spray, spread filler after a day, sand and feather edge w/ guide coat. If good and you break thru, you can re-spray full strength on metal, or over entire filler repair. W/G remover clean, spray 2K primer or high build. Sand 180, to 400. Urethane reducer at 50% make this epoxy into a nice smooth sealer. Paint ready. Don’t forget SPI Universal Clear. It is hands down easy to spray w1.3 mm tip, color sand, then cut & buff. Found on many Pebble Beach show care!

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

I don’t reduce because I always wet sand it with 600 prior to base. Ensures a perfectly smooth surface this way and no dust nibs.

[@deankay4434]

No problem at all. Just a comment to save materials and elbows. Best of luck with your project!