How to Modify 3d Printer Nozzles - the EASY way

[@ManCrafting]

Cool. Nice having a machine shop at your disposal. Someday I’ll have a few more metal working tools. Good to have some videos for reference when that happens.

[@RayMAKES]

Hi Chad!! thanks, i'm glad you liked it! having a shop like this is a blessing and a curse.... while i can make ANYTHING i want for myself... there is seldom enough time to do so. for this video, the use of the fixture plate is the key lesson.

[@robertevans6481]

Great cost savings there Ray,as well as time savings to....have a great weekend..

[@RayMAKES]

thanks Robert. i hope other will get some benefit from it! you have a great one too!

[@pmally2006]

that drillbit was super wobbly

[@RayMAKES]

It wasn't the drill bit it was the chuck. One of my guys ruined it. Since it wasn't critical for this I didn't worry about it.

[@jrotten1982]

I do not see how this is easy. Easy if you have thousands of dollars of machines. FAIL

[@RayMAKES]

Well, I suppose if you didn't bother to save and gather tools with which you can do work, it would be much more difficult... however magic wands are not an appropriate substitute for tools

[@Glen48m]

Drill and tap an Ally Plate and hit the nozzle with a grinder...round off top of thread

[@kttkttkt]

Once you own a proper mill, i guess you will not need instructions to shorten your nozzle :D

[@RayMAKES]

Yeah, that's very accurate

[@ahndeux]

If you can visually see the drill bit wobbling on the 1mm bit and chuck, there is no way you can maintain a good hole diameter precision. If you put a dial gauge on that 1mm drill bit, you will definitely see major problems with your runout. You skipped the important steps of telling or showing the user how to center the bit to the original center hole. At least set a drill stop distance to chamfer the hole with the drill bit. If not, you may get chatter along the walls of the chamfered hole. If you are doing multiple nozzles, setting a vise stop and use the plate as a guide would at least help you to repeat the process on other nozzles without having to recenter the hole. Overall, good effort at modifying the nozzle even though most people won't have half the equipment you have at home and can't replicate it.

[@RayMAKES]

lol, i was wondering when someone would notice that... the #60 drill was already a little bigger than 1mm so i wasn't going to get a perfect hole. when i saw the wobble i knew one of my guys had bent the arbor and didn't tell me about it!!! not happy, but its not the first time. for the purposes of modifying a (super cheap) printer nozzle the squareness of the end was the most important part, the rest wasn't that critical, but you make all good points. as you pointed out i didn't not include alot of the little necessary setup parts of the process, but that is because after making so many videos you get tuned to the things that people get bored watching and then move away from the video... got to keep it exciting, or at least about as exciting as this kind of thing can be, lol

[@ahndeux]

Thanks for the clarification. I would be mad too if someone used my expensive arbors or collets, break it, and don't tell me. I personally like the ER style collets and arbors to minimize the drill distance and maximize the stiffness, but everyone has different preferences and budgets. I'm sure someone watching may think they can replicate your process. However, if the drill bit is off the center hole, it can snap easily. I'm surprised nobody asked you about the critical information like the speed of the end mill or the drill bit. It's probably not super critical either, but I'm sure you know its different for different material types. Someone trying modify a stainless or tungsten nozzle may be in for a surprise. The brass nozzles are very tolerant. I don't have your same printer, but if the nozzle is different, I may have to see if its better to replace the hot end block with one that has a longer thread engagement to minimize the cost of modifying nozzles in the future. Maybe another option is to use a shim to allow the nozzle to protrude longer. Again, I don't have this printer so I don't know if these options are available.

[@RayMAKES]

oh yeah, if they try this with tungsten, they will be unpleasantly surprised. i found that most people are not really interested in the EXACT detail, they are just curious of the overall process.... you are one of the few that is most interested (or at least more aware) of the details involved. one of my main reasons to modify the nozzle is so i could get it as high as possible to give me enough room to install a glass bed, and to avoid buying the OEM nozzles that were much more expensive. i did that over the weekend, and wow what a difference it has made!!

[@FrankHRitz]

you spent a whole plate of Alu ??? and put a hole in it ? Alu is energy expensive !

[@RayMAKES]

lol, that is not a "whole plate" . we buy large sheets (60"x120") for the jobs in the shop, i took this little tiny piece out of the scrap pile. we recycle thousands of pounds of aluminum a year. this tiny plate is basically nothing.

[@muskokaliving2072]

You got the job done, but you should be ashamed of your machining practices!

[@RayMAKES]

It's not a die Corky., any machinist that treats every single job as a die, is a machinist that loses money for his employer. Tolerance the job as it requires, don't make it more expensive thank it needs to be